WHAT OPTIONS WERE YOU WANTING TO CREATE FOR WOMEN WITH ESBY? I WANT WOMEN TO HAVE MORE CLASSIC OPTIONS, BUT THEY DON’T HAVE TO BE PLAIN OR BORING. I WANT SILHOUETTES THAT ARE SPECIAL, WHILE REMAINING CLASSIC AND LESS TRENDY. TREND DRIVES THE WOMEN’S MARKET, WHICH LEADS TO MANY THROWAWAY, FAST-FASHION BRANDS. I BELIEVE THAT CLOTHING SHOULD LAST. I WANT TO BUY SOMETHING AND WEAR IT ALL THE TIME. WHEN IT WEARS OUT, I WOULDN’T MIND REPAIRING A FAVORITE PIECE. WHICH MEANS I WANT MY PIECES TO BE MADE WITH QUALITY FABRICS AND SEWN WELL. I WANT TO HAVE AN EMOTIONAL RELATIONSHIP WITH MY CLOSET. CLOTHES TELL STORIES. I ALWAYS REMEMBERING WHAT I WAS WEARING WHEN I THINK OF FAVORITE MEMORY OR PAST EVENT. I ALSO DON’T WANT TO HAVE TO THINK A LOT ABOUT WHAT I WEAR EACH DAY. HAVING A CLOSET FILLED WITH COMFORTABLE, FLATTERING, VERSATILE, TIMELESS, WELL-MADE PIECES IS MY DREAM AND GOAL. Where was the collection conceived and designed? Did the location inspire the pieces? Esby has been living in my head many years before it actually became a real line. I started a blog - inspiringesby.com - while I was designing menswear, where I could post inspirations I found that didn’t pertain to my day job. once I started to design and sketch, I was still living in new york and spent the summers in Montauk. All of the pieces from the first season are named after places in Montauk. I was very inspired by the differences and similarities between NYC and the beach. The play between urban living and laid back beach vibes is visible throughout the line. The Beach House reversible top is a beach cover-up turned into a year-round top. The West Lake dress is the ease of a shirtdress but a bit more structured. You can wear it easily from day to night. The ford pond tunic is long enough to wear as a dress with sandals when it’s warm, or wear it over jeans with boots and a sweater during cooler months. What are the key basics? I think the key basics of any wardrobe are only a few great pieces. One must have amazing jeans that fit well. In my case - I always have a black and worn-in pair of high-waisted skinny jeans. I also think a wide leg pant is a must have - preferably lightweight dark denim. I’m working on a pair for season two. Everyone should also have a few great button-down shirts. My uniform always tends to be a skinny jean and a button-down. So classic. Of course, chambray is everywhere right now - and for good reason. It’s comfortable, layer-able, and season-less. I probably have 10 great chambray shirts. A go-to dress is key. An easy shape. Like the West Lake dress. You can wear it so many ways. I also always make sure I am are buying natural fabrics, though, as poly and other man-made fibers don’t breathe and make you hot in the summer and cold in the winter. Esby will always be made using only natural fabrics. Oversized styles are also great. For those days when you feel like you aren’t looking as good as you really do - throw on an oversized top that looks good but is still comfortable - like the Beach House reversible top. You will feel like you are in sweats but won’t look like it. A great sweater is also a must have. I’m looking forward to developing sweaters for Esby. You can’t beat an over-sized wide V-neck camel colored sweater. I like mine to be chunky linen or silk.
What is the color pallet of the collection? Where are they dyed? The color palettes for esby will likely always be muted and natural. I don’t wear a ton of color, and I think the most beautiful colors are blues, grays, blacks, whites, and off-whites - these will never go out of style. I’m obsessed with indigo. It’s a dye I’ll use often. There is a scarf in the
line that is chambray and it’s over-dyed indigo. The West Lake dress and top both come in a bleached out indigo that is really lovely. I can’t wait to see how those pieces will wear over time. I do love garment dying pieces, as well. The Beach House top and East End tee are garment dyed. During garment dying, you’re washing dye into the actual finished garment, so it’s always going to have a more interesting effect around the stitching and seams, and also give the piece a bit of a lived-in look and feel. I also love a true indian ikat. The yarns are dyed and then woven together. It produces the most unique pattern through such an interesting weaving process. I used ikat for the navy beach dress and the kimono top, as well as many of the scarves. The line was produced where? We are working with an amazing small factory in new orleans. I feel so lucky to have found them. A former designer moved from New York and opened up a factory that had closed after Katrina. I love helping to bring work back to that area, not to mention - the amount of detail and attention my small line gets there. I know they are being thorough and paying attention to detail - that’s incredibly important to me.
How important is made in America? Made in America is so special. I really enjoy knowing that my clothing is made in a factory where workers are paid a fare wage and treated well. The more work in this industry that we can bring back to the states, the better. Product will only continue to improve and we can’t let the skill of sewing and manufacturing die in this country. I read recently that Americans bought 50% of their clothing from US manufacturers in 1990. Today, a mere 5% of the clothing we buy is US made. As we educate ourselves and it becomes important in our lives for other products to be made well in the US - we need not forget the clothing we wear on our back every day. I’m from north carolina, where this industry really used to thrive. I’m excited to be using a knit fabric in my second season that’s made in north carolina.
What is your favorite piece from the collection? It’s really hard to pick a favorite from the line, but I know I will be wearing the West Lake top in the indigo/natural stripe all the time. I also really love the over-dyed black kimono top. That piece sort of designed itself during the development process of another style that didn’t make it. I’m also working on a jumper for season 2 that I can’t wait to come to life. (Season two is expected to be finished in the fall of this year.)