A AN N
INTRODUCTION
TO
C TYO C L I N G CYCLING
Cycling is beautiful. Cycling is fun. Cycling is freedom! This zine contains foundational knowledge to better maintain and safely utilize your bicycle. Bikes are an excellent tool for transportation, but they can be so much more. Using your own body to propel a machine that you know intimately and are capable of maintaining is a gateway to satisfaction, independence, and empowerment. While this zine will not transform you into a master mechanic, hopefully you can begin to diagnose basic problems, ask further questions that lead to deeper understanding, and take pride in your identity as a cyclist. ····· · · · · · Become curious and seek answers! · · · · · Quench your thirst for further knowledge about bike maintenance and cycling in general with these online and print resources: Sheldon Brown — sheldonbrown.com
a no-frills website regarded by many as the go-to source for technical specifications and mechanical guidance
RJ the Bike Guy — rjthebikeguy.com
in-depth instructional videos for aspiring DIY mechanics (available on YouTube)
Park Tool — parktool.com
how-to videos from a leading manufacturer of bike tools (available on YouTube)
GCN — globalcyclingnetwork.com
content ranging from tech tutorials and riding tips to industry trends and current events (available on YouTube)
The Chainbreaker Bike Book by Shelly Lynn Jackson & Ethan Clark a hand-illustrated introduction to bike repair in print format
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a free resource created // compiled by Danny Shyti reproduction permitted for educational & non-profit purposes only
SEAT STAY
SADDLE
BRAKE
CHAIN STAY
DRIVETRAIN
SEATPOST
TOP TUBE
FORK
HEADSET
DOWN TUBE SEAT TUBE
CRANKSET
HANDLEBARS
HEAD TUBE
KNOW YOUR BIKE ANATOMY 101 SHIFT LEVERS
GRIP
TOP CAP STEM
C O C K BRAKE LEVER P I BARREL T ADJUSTERS
BRAKE CABLE REFLECTOR SHIFT CABLE
SOLID AXLE AXLE NUT
F R O N T
INNER TUBE (INSIDE TIRE) HUB
QUICK RELEASE RIM
TIRE
SPOKE
W H E E L
QUICK RELEASE LEVER
VALVE
SPOKE NIPPLE
MORE ANATOMY R E A R
FREEWHEEL (OR CASSETTE)
W REAR H DERAILLEUR E JOCKEY WHEEL E L CHAIN
BARREL ADJUSTER SHIFT CABLE (IN HOUSING)
FRONT DERAILLEUR
C R A N K S E T
BOTTOM BRACKET (INSIDE FRAME)
ADJUSTABLE CUP
SPINDLE
CHAINRING FIXED CUP
CRANK ARM
PEDAL
*YOUR OWN BIKE PROBABLY LOOKS DIFFERENT* These diagrams are meant to provide an introductory vocabulary for basic systems on a bicycle. Components will vary between different bikes and their intended functions. Though the lines continue to blur as cycling disciplines evolve, many bikes will fall into one of a few basic categories: ROAD
HY B R I D
M O U NTA I N
CRUISER
light, aerodynamic aggressive rider position, narrow tires built to go fast on pavement
versatile, practical relaxed position, wider tires built to handle various terrain
rugged, robust suspension, fat knobby tires built for off-roading on rough terrain
comfortable, simple, easy to ride upright position, wide tires built for short distances on flat terrain
ESSENTIAL TOOLS
Most components on a bicycle can be adjusted with just a few basic tools available at any hardware store. With just a couple more inexpensive bikespecific tools, you’ll be equipped to handle a majority of common issues. * = bike-specific: get these at your local bike shop!
* CHAIN LUBE HEX // ALLEN to lube your chain! WRENCHES 4, 5, & 6mm to adjust * TIRE LEVER most components to remove tires 15MM CRESCENT // COMBINATION WRENCH removes wheels & most pedals FLAT HEAD & PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWDRIVERS for various small components
* PATCH KIT to fix flats
MULTI-TOOL common & bike-specific varieties available
* PRESTASCHRADER ADAPTER lets you use almost any pump if you have presta valves
* FLOOR PUMP many are compatible with both presta & schrader valves
*** Additional sizes of combination wrenches and hex wrenches may be required for specific components. Fortunately, these are typically sold in sets!
PUMP UP YOUR TIRES!
Under-inflated tires make it so much harder to pedal and will chew through your inner tubes. They’ll also subject your rims to greater abuse, eventually bending or damaging them beyond repair. Spare yourself the trouble and ALWAYS keep your tires inflated to the proper PSI!
PRESTA VALVE (closed)
PRESTA VALVE (open)
SCHRADER VALVE
1. remove valve cap // open valve by unscrewing locking nut (presta only) 3. attach pump head with lever down, then lift up to seal 4. if tires are not inflating or air is escaping, try attaching pump head again to achieve a better seal 5. flip lever back down to remove, tighten locking nut (presta), replace valve cap
LUBE YOUR CHAIN!
Neglecting your chain and gears dramatically accelerates wear — not to mention the awful noise of a squeaky drivetrain! There are a few different methods for applying lube, but this one is probably the easiest: 1. clean it first if it’s looking nasty! coat drivetrain with a degreaser (i.e. Simple Green or dish soap & water) 2. with a stiff brush (i.e. an old toothbrush), scrub entire chain as well as each chainring, rear cog, and jockey wheel (may require removing rear wheel) 3. wipe clean with an old rag (remaining degreaser will prevent lube from properly coating chain) 4. reinstall rear wheel, then lightly stream lubricant onto chain above rear cog while pedaling backwards to coat entire length of chain. hold tip of bottle close to the chain — *avoid overspraying and contaminating braking system!* 5. continue backpedaling to distribute lube, allow lube to penetrate for a few minutes, then wipe chain with a fresh clean rag to remove excess
TIME FOR A TUNE UP? HOW TO SPOT MECHANICAL ISSUES KNOWING WHEN SOMETHING IS NOT FUNCTIONING PROPERLY IS AN ESSENTIAL SKILL FOR ANY CYCLIST.
Before each ride, check:
A B C
AIR — tires should always be inflated to the pressure indicated on tire sidewall. This is the simplest and most common issue that will make it harder to ride and cost you money! BRAKES — brakes should clamp with ample force to immediately stop a spinning wheel, and brake pads should contact the rim evenly on both side of braking surface without rubbing on tires CRANKS // CHAIN // CABLES — cranks should spin smoothly and not have any side-to-side play // chain should be lubricated // cables should operate smoothly and not be frayed or damaged
*** Make sure all components like handlebars, seatpost, crank arms, quick releases, etc. feel tight and secure!
The ABC quick check is a great way to assess your bike for easy-to-spot issues every time you ride, but it’s good practice to occasionally do a more thorough inspection. Even if you can’t fix it yourself, you will save so much money and frustration if you keep the little things from piling up. Spin wheels — Is there noticeable wobble? Do brakes rub on either side? Do wheels have side-to-side play despite being securely mounted? Do they spin freely or stop suddenly on their own? *** Does chain bunch up when pedaling backwards? Pull crank arms — Is there any side-to-side play? Are chainrings bolted securely to crankset? Are there any missing bolts? Does chain skip when pedaling? *** Squeeze brakes and push bike forward — Is there any rocking or play in headset? Do brakes spring back immediately after being released? *** Does bike shift smoothly between every gear? Does one click equal exactly one shift? *** Do tires show signs of damage or excessive tread wear? If so, seek guidance from your local bike shop!
LOVE YOUR BIKE GENERAL UPKEEP & MORE Keep it indoors if you can. There’s no way around the fact that storing your bike outside where it is exposed to the elements for extended periods of time will lead to rapid corrosion. Tires may need to be inflated at least every 1–2 weeks. This can vary depending on how much you ride, so use the ABC check to make sure you’re always running optimal tire pressure. Your chain should never feel dry to the touch. Mantain your chain with a bike specific lubricant! For most riding, “wet” or “allpurpose” lubricants work fine. “Dry” lubricants attract less dirt but are also less resilient in harsh weather. Relube often if you ride a lot and especially if you ride in the rain. If it squeaks, it’s way overdue! Rattling or loose components almost always indicate some sort of issue. It could be as minor as a loose bolt, but most issues on a bike that go unaddressed for long enough can lead to worse problems that require major repairs. Don’t be afraid to DIY, but also make sure you have access to the right tools and information. It’s much easier to seek out the proper resources or guidance from an experienced mechanic than to try to remove rounded bolts or replace broken components. * * * * * MOST IMPORTANTLY: IT’S OKAY TO ASK FOR HELP. Whether you’re building a wheel or just trying to pump your tires, everyone has to learn somehow. Don’t let the fear of embarrassment keep you from getting the most out of your bike! LOCK YOUR BIKE! Almost all bike theft is the result of failing to lock properly — or at all. · use a sturdy U-lock (cable locks are easily cut) · lock the frame (not just the wheel) · lock to something sturdy that can’t be readily cut, moved or disassembled · if you’ll be gone long, consider securing additional components that could potentially be removed
HOW TO FIX A FLAT
1. REMOVE WHEEL
YOU WILL NEED
·15mm WRENCH (unless you have quick releases) ·TIRE LEVER FRONT WHEEL: · PATCH KIT • if quick release, flip lever open and with PATCHES, ADHESIVE, unscrew and SANDPAPER or METAL • if solid axle, unscrew axle nuts with ROUGHING TOOL 15mm wrench — or —
· NEW INNER TUBE REAR WHEEL: (make sure you have the correct • shift into highest gear (smallest cog) size and valve type!) • open quick release or unscrew axle nuts • pull derailleur back to allow wheel to pass through
2. REMOVE TIRE
• open/press valve to completely deflate (1) • roll tire back from rim (2) and hook lever under tire bead (3) • run tire lever around rim to release one side of the tire and pull out tube
3a. IF PATCHING TUBE: • after removing tube, inflate it, then listen/feel to locate leak. • use metal tool to lightly roughen tube (4) so glue will bond properly • apply thin layer of glue to inner tube (5) larger slightly larger than patch (6) • allow glue 1–2 minutes to begin drying, then peel patch and press firmly to tube for several minutes
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2
3
4
5
6
3b. IF REPLACING TUBE: Obtain the correct size and valve type. Size will be printed on both the tire and inner tube as a dimension with wheel diameter (first number) and tire width (second number).
· tires will have exact dimensions: e.g. 700c x 28c, 26” x 1.95”, 29” x 2.4” · inner tubes will fit a range of widths at one diameter: e.g. 700c x 18–25c, 26” x 1.75–2.4”, 29” x 2.1–2.4”
** If unsure, bring old tube/tire with you when purchasing your replacement! **
4. REASSEMBLE TUBE & TIRE • feel inside of tire for debris that may have caused puncture • begin with one side of tire set inside of rim • push new tube’s valve stem through hole in rim (7), then fit tube up inside of tire all the way around (8) ** easier if tube has a little bit of air to hold a rounder shape • begin seating other side of the tire starting at valve. valve may have to be pushed up slightly (9) • continue seating tire bead inside of rim (10). this gets more difficult as you go. it can usually be done by hand, but use a tire lever if it gets too difficult (11) • make sure tube is not sticking out or pinched between tire bead and rim! (12) • inspect that tire is seated evenly on both sides, then reinflate slowly while ensuring proper installation!
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8
9
10
11
12
SAFETY & ETTIQUITE Laws may vary by locality, so make sure you’re familiar with your rights and responsibilities where you live. The following sections are based on Virginia state law. SIGNAL YOUR INTENTIONS. Cyclists must communicate intent to change direction or stop. This is best accomplished with the following standard hand signals: L E FT T U R N
ST O P P I N G
R I G HT T U R N
R I G HT T U R N (traditional)
WEAR A HELMET. Though not required by law except by persons under the age of 14 or 16 in certain jurisdictions, protecting your consciousness is always a good idea. BE VISIBLE. Cyclists riding between sunset and sunrise must be equipped with: · a white front light visible at 500 ft · a red reflector visible at 600 ft or a red taillight visible at 500 ft when riding on highways with speed limits of 35+ mph HEADPHONES are not allowed to be worn in both ears while cycling, and it’s a good idea to avoid them altogether. Using your ears is vital in order to stay alert on the road. DON’T RIDE AGAINST TRAFFIC. It’s more dangerous and illegal. People are less likely to see you coming at intersections and you pose a threat to cyclists traveling in the proper direction. You’re not a jogger!
3 ft
SHARROWS can be found on some roadways and indicate an optimal zone for cyclists.
Taking the lane is permissible when the road width is too narrow to share with a motor vehicle. This should be done sparingly and only to avoid specific obstructions or unsafe situations.
Cyclists must ride on the proper side of the road, and — if riding below the speed of traffic — as far to the right as safely practicable. Exceptions include passing, preparation for a left turn, and the avoidance of obstacles or unsafe conditions.
However, they usually do not represent a protected bike lane, so cyclists should still be aware of traffic and exercise due caution.
Cyclists may pass on either side, but if overtaking another cyclist or pedestrian must give an audible signal. This is best achieved with a bell or by stating, “on your left!” // “on your right!” whether on the road or on the sidewalk...
AVO ID RID IN G IN THE DOOR Z ONE WHENEVER P OS S I BL E
Motorists must overtake cyclists on the left with at least three feet of space, at a reasonable speed, and only when safe to do so.
IT IS A MOTORIST’S LEGAL RESPONSIBILITY TO SAFELY OPEN CAR DOORS. THIS MAY PROTECT YOU FROM LIABILITY BUT NOT FROM INJURY.
WHERE TO RIDE
CYCLISTS IN ROADWAYS HAVE THE SAME RIGHTS & RESPONSIBILITIES AS MOTORISTS CYCLISTS ON SIDEWALKS HAVE THE SAME RIGHTS & RESPONSIBILITIES AS PEDESTRIANS
a free resource created // compiled by Danny Shyti reproduction permitted for educational & non-profit purposes only