3 minute read

Out and About

Three new culinary ventures make their pandemic debut

By Michael and Cait Allen

Advertisement

Family Fare at Mexi-Talian Grill

Cousins Fernando Cristobal and Juan Garcia worked for many years in Italian restaurants. When they chose to make the leap to become chef/ owners, they settled on the 400 block of South Street to realize their dream. Then, moments before opening, COVID hit. It would be weeks before L&I would even come to inspect them. When they finally opened for take-out, “we could treat each person like a king, ” Juan says, and his warmth is immediately infectious (in a good way).

Everything at Mexi-Talian Grill is made fresh to order, and the fusion of cuisines explodes with unexpected adventures. The Chorizo Chicken Pasta lit

Juan bringin’ the heat!

a fire under an otherwise familiar Italian dish. With the spices, shaves of pepper, corn, and other Mexican secrets, the dish speaks two languages with an amazing

Photo: Michael Allen

fluency. Look for more novel creations at Mexi-Talian Grill, especially, in seafood and vegetarian dishes. “We are going to go NUTS!” Fernando says.

Patrons can leave their name or IG handle on Mexi-Talian Grill. Photo: Michael Allen

Original chalk art graces the walls at Mari.

A Special Home Away from Home at Mari

Kevin Addis, chef/owner of Entrée at 1608 South Street, chose the former location of Dimitri’s at 3rd and Catherine for his plunge into modern American seafood with a rustic Sicilian flair. When asked about inspiration, Kevin says, “I remember the simple, good-tasting food that my grandmother made, especially the feast of the seven fishes.” His entire family is creative. Even his sisters contributed: They made the chalk art that adds hip energy to the atmosphere.

And a stunning Octo Bucatini graces its table. Photo: Michael Allen Photo: Michael Allen

Try the Caesar salad, featuring heirloom garlic from California. Kevin promised the best Caesar salad we'd ever had—and he delivered. And what is special about opening during COVID? Ask Felix and Tina from Bella Vista, who are sitting too far away to talk, but not too far to shout. “We have been here every Friday for four weeks!” they declare. They joke with Kevin as we dig into the incredible Crab Pasta, featuring a cluster of Dungeness crab on top. We see the most important thing Kevin has created from COVID—a delicious escape that still feels close and cozy, like a home away from home.

Calm and Respite at Three Graces

As a lawyer in New York, owner Yulee Park enjoyed her best productivity in neighborhood coffee shops. “Every neighborhood needs a coffee shop,” she says. “And kids need a good, safe place to hang out after school.”

Yulee left an active law practice to raise her children. On a visit to Paris, a guide likened her and her daughters to the Three Graces, daughters of Zeus. Hence, the name of the café at 730 South Fifth Street, where Yulee aims to create a relaxed and serene atmosphere. COVID restrictions allowed her to begin slowly and carefully. People craved normalcy during those times, and we were among

A welcoming sign at Three Graces

them. A Saturday morning coffee and walk in the open air was a godsend amid so much worry and disruption.

Yulee’s balance extends to her choices of coffee and the selection of 15 teas. Each day, the baristas need to find the perfect grind size to match weather, temperature, and humidity. “It’s amazing how much the flavor of coffee changes with these variables, especially the amount of bitterness,” Yulee says. Surrounded by the environment she has created, we appreciate the chance to immerse ourselves in her vision of balance and serenity. ■

Also on the menu: hot matcha latte