Black History to appreciate anytime around South Street

A self-guided tour lets you appreciate Black history any and all days of the year

By Nicole Maley Photos courtesy South Street Headhouse District

South Street would not have its indelible cultural impact on Philadelphia without the influence of black creators and community members. The South Street Headhouse District has offered a way for neighbors to learn and pay tribute to this year-round with “Black History on South Street: A Self-Guided Tour.”

Begin your tour at 10th and South - the original location of Engine Company #11, Philadelphia’s all-Black fire-fighting unit segregated from 1919 – 1952. Prior to 1917, the city only employed a single black firefighter. By 1923, Engine #11 had 20 black firemen. Despite discrimination and poor treatment, the men of Company 11 distinguished themselves with their service.

As you head east on South Street, you’ll see the historical marker of Octavius V. Catto (1839 – 1871), at 812 South Street. A respected activist who lived at this location, Catto was assassinated in an 1871 riot, while urging his black neighbors to vote on Election Day. In 2017, the City erected a statue of Cato on the southwest corner of City Hall to commemorate his work.

The next stop is the wonderfully detailed mural honoring W.E.B. Du Bois at the current location of Engine Company #11 (601 South Street). “Mapping Courage,” by Willis Humphrey, artistically translates Du Bois’s groundbreaking work from 1896 - 1897, investigating

Philadelphia’s Seventh Ward. At that time, Philadelphia had the second largest Black population in the US, many of whom lived in the Seventh Ward (7th Street to the Schuylkill River between South and Spruce Streets). Du Bois’s study, commissioned by the University of Pennsylvania, meticulously examined the social conditions and challenges faced by the African American community; his findings became the celebrated book, “The Philadelphia Negro.”

During the study, Du Bois and his family lived in a one-room apartment at 617 Rodman Street. And the historical marker at this location is the next stop on your self-guided tour. Du Bois was a diligent researcher for Penn, even missing the birth of his son to complete the investigation. In his conclusion, he praised Penn for being the first educational body to study issues faced by a Black community in a single locality. However, Du Bois also resented the University for not offering him a permanent teaching position; he ultimately left Philadelphia for a professorship at Atlanta University (now Clark Atlanta University).

Continue with a detour off South Street to visit the Mother Bethel African Methodist Church at 6th & Lombard streets. Founded in 1794, Mother Bethel was one of the first African American churches in the United States. Richard Allen, one of the founders, was a former slave and later became the first Bishop of an African American denomination in the US. The basement museum of the church houses Reverend Allen’s tomb as well as intriguing artifacts such as muskets from Black troops raised during the War of 1812. Most impressively, the Mother Bethel site is the oldest piece of land in the country continuously owned by Black Americans.

Near Mother Bethel is the historical marker for the Free African Society (419 S. 6th Street), founded by Allen and Reverend Absalom Jones. James Forten, also a member of the group, is the focus of a special exhibit “Black Founders: The Forten Family of Philadelphia,” at the Museum of the American Revolution (101 S 3rd St).

Heading back to South Street (and the 21st century), snap a quick picture of the, “Avenue of the Roots.” The street sign, at the intersection of East Passyunk and South Street, was dedicated in 2020 to mark the location where the Philly hip hop legends, (and Creative and Performing Arts High School classmates), got their start. It’s hard to believe that Ahmir “Questlove” Thompson and Tariq “Black Thought” Trotter could be found busking on this street corner; rapping and playing bucket drums for any passerby to enjoy, when they now help host the Tonight Show on nationally syndicated television.

To continue your tour, cross Passyunk to 5th and Kater Streets .On the outside of Nocturnal Skateshop, is the red-white-and blue mural of Philadelphia skateboarding legend, Roger Browne, (612 S 5th street), painted by Philly-based artist, Jim Houser.

Next, head south to a popular destination, Philly AIDS Thrift. Outside the store, (but even better viewing across the street), look up to take in the mural “All At Once.” Painted by Ali M. Williams, the mural pays tribute to seven departed members of the Black Philadelphia transgender community. The beautiful painting was created in partnership with the Morris Home - the only residential recovery program in the US to offer services specifically for trans communities. Nizah Morris, Morris Home’s namesake, is depicted in the mural.

Head to 4th and Fulton streets to find “Harmony and the Windows of Curiosities,” a mural painted by local artist Conrad Booker in 2012. Booker was inspired by 19 th century maps of Philadelphia, especially Fulton Street’s original name, “Harmony Street.” The artwork was truly a community effort as Fulton Street neighbors banded together to raise funds and approached QVNA for a grant to help finish the job. Thanks to Booker, a blank wall was transformed into a beautiful Queen Village butterfly sanctuary.

End your walking tour with a little East Coast swing, stopping by the filming locations highlighted in the music video of Boyz II Men’s iconic 1991 “Motownphilly.” Snap a picture in the same spots where the Philly R&B quartet filmed “cooling on South Street:” driving past 3rd and South Street as well as under the Headhouse Shambles at 2nd and Lombard - where you can also buy fruits and vegetables at the SSHD weekend Farmers Market!

Take a summer afternoon break to appreciate Black History on this thoughtprovoking tour of South Street and the surrounding area. Along with walking this historic district, you can ensure Black History continues to thrive by supporting one of the many Black-owned businesses on South Street. For more tour information and a full list of Black-Owned businesses, visit https://southstreet.com/black-history-on-south-street-a-self-guided-tour ■