In a Famiglia Way

The next generation takes the lead for a South Street culinary legacy

Words & photos by Michael Allen

Anew energy is emerging on South Street fueled by the entrepreneurial spirit of a new generation. Giana Frusone, Manager of La Nonna (214 South Street), and third generation of a local restaurant family, is one who embodies that sense of rebirth and the blending of new ideas with tradition.

To understand La Nonna today, you must first travel back to the Frosinone countryside outside of Rome. There, two brothers grew up under the watchful eye of their mother, Clelia. Younger brother Giancarlo Frusone would be - come a professional ballroom dancer, while Sandro Frusone embraced a love of cooking. When they came to the United States and settled in Philadelphia, Giancarlo helped his brother Sandro realize his dream by opening San Carlo’s, which long-time Queen Villagers will no doubt remember. Clelia joined them and reinforced the old-world expectations of handmade pasta and hearty cooking. “My grandmother used to scoff at fancy food assembled with tweezers,” Giana says. “She’d say ‘if you want that, go to a museum. If you want good food, come here.’”

“All the recipes live in my uncle’s head,” Giana says, “but one by one, he is showing them to me. Of course, nothing is measured!” The Roman cuisine harkens back to favorite childhood dishes. “Nonna always enjoys vegetables, and that’s why we serve green beans and carrots with the bread.” The crunch and tang rouse you into a state of keen anticipation for the dishes to come.

“The Caesar dressing is a special family recipe,” Giana says. It arrives creamy and rich with anchovy. We think of salt air in the hills overlooking the sea as fishermen, down below, are mending nets and looking out to sea. “The artichokes are a Roman tradition,” Giana says. We love the lemon and the red splash of cherry tomatoes. The appetizer is light but feels wonderfully decadent.

The entrees are cleared and although Giana warned that the Beef Bolognese from Rome is not the usual approach to the dish, we were surprised and captivated. The meat sauce is creamy, gravy-like, and full of beef flavor, like the Italian answer to beef stroganoff. Next, the signature gnocchi are as large as clouds against a sky of buttery blush sauce. We understand why Sandro’s recipes transcend a measuring cup!

Giana will reminisce about her nonna making gnocchi in the back of the restaurant with her long white hair and big wool shirt. Then, Giana is six years old, running around and bothering her. Nonna yells, exasperated, but follows up the reprimand with sugar-covered strawberries. Yet, despite the presence of so many memories here, you can already sense Giana’s touch all around you. South Street is passing to very capable hands. Come visit Giana and the many others who are writing the next story of South Street! ■