FEAST
Review
by Stephanie Obodda
Dinner for the Win The Vig combines upscale pub food and a sporty atmosphere
The Vig at the first statewide poutine competition, held earlier this year at the Museum of Work and Culture in Woonsocket as part of a celebration of French Canadian culture. I noted the quality ingredients and appreciated the smiles of the adorable young staff who dished out our portions, and who I assume were Chef Guy Charles’ interns – ahem, children. I’d walked by The Vig once or twice since it opened scarcely six months earlier, and the poutine piqued my interest enough to check it out. The Vig is attached to the Providence Hilton on the downtown side of Atwells Avenue, but it hardly feels like a hotel restaurant. It seems more conceptually linked to the Dunkin’ Donuts Center because of its energy and sports theme. To suit the motif, The Vig took its name from the obscure word “vigorish,” meaning a bookie’s cut of a gamble. If you’re not into sports bars, don’t dismiss this one. The decor is tasteful and understated – think decades-old cricket bats instead of garish jerseys. The restaurant’s stylish design and dim lighting
Bacon Mac & Cheese
make it just as appropriate for a pretheater (or, in our case, pre-ballet) date as for hockey tailgating. The Vig’s menu is best described as creative comfort food – crowd-pleasers with a twist. As you’d expect, there are a few burgers on the menu, but they aren’t basic. One has homemade
The Big Bacon Double Cheeseburger
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CUISINE: Comfort Food PRICES: Appetizers: $5-$14; Entrees: $14-$36; Desserts: $8 ATMOSPHERE: Casual
PROVIDENCE MONTHLY | July 2017
pub cheese, while another incorporates the flavors of French onion soup with Gruyère and caramelized onions. We started with a cocktail, the hilariously named “Ball So Hard,” a combination of rye, blood orange liqueur, Campari and rosemary simple syrup. A lot of the cocktails had an herbal bent,
incorporating various herb-infused simple syrups, bitters and apéritifs. To be honest, I wanted to order all of the appetizers, and it wasn’t just because I had a modest lunch. We settled on two: a reprise of the Poutine and the Prosciutto-Wrapped Drumettes. The drumettes satisfied my wing craving while seeming fancy enough for a Friday night. They were topped with a sweetand-salty bacon scallion jam and the thin part of the drumstick was wrapped in prosciutto. As I mentioned, the poutine is not entirely traditional but this version should be judged as an entirely different dish, and a good one. The thick steak fries are well-seasoned, the cheese curds almost melt, and a rich short rib gravy makes it more a meal than a snack. I wish I had saved my appetite for some Bacon Caramel Popcorn, too. I thought the beer list could have used a local draft or two, but I appreciated the Dogfish 60 Minute and 90 Minute, always good standbys. Often, at restaurants that serve burgers and sandwiches alongside more upscale entrees, I perceive an unspoken rule to order from the same part of the menu as your date. Are you
Photography by Stacey Doyle
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