Feast | Review
by Linda Beaulieu
Southern Comfort All American dining that’s worth the trip I am such
Photography: Kate Kelley
a fan of the food at The Dancing Pig – I’ve been to dinner there three times since it recently opened. The very talented Chef Kieran Smith is serving barbecue-influenced American comfort food. It’s not surprising that the chef is so successful in his kitchen; he has an impressive resumé, including stints as a corporate chef and with the Sid Wainer & Son specialty food company based in New Bedford. Smith is a strong supporter of Farm Fresh Rhode Island and utilizes local products whenever possible. You may need your GPS to get to The Dancing Pig, located in Cumberland, about 20 minutes north of Providence. It’s a two-story restaurant with a small dining room on the first floor and a very lively lounge upstairs. The full menu is available on both levels. This has been the site of many restaurants over the past couple of decades. Back in the day, it was called Over the Rainbow; most recently, it was a Sizzler. French doors open onto the dining area with walls the color of deep red wine. Country ribs and meatloaf might be on the menu, but every table is topped with crisp white linens and
Pulled Pork Empanadas
sparkling glassware – a formal setting for casual fare. Barbecue memorabilia adorn the walls along with brightly colored pigs in all shapes and sizes. On my three trips to this suburban eatery, I’ve always ordered something different, and there are still dishes on the menu that I hope to sample. That is the sign of a really good restaurant. For starters, I heartily recommend the Breadtzels, the Stuffed Clam, the Pulled Pork Empanadas and the Tomato Soup (all in the $4 to $8 price range). Perfect for a party of four, the Breadtzels are big, fat, soft pretzels that have been cut into chunks and served with a warm bacon, cheddar and horseradish dip. (Okay, that’s the first recipe I’d like to have.) I kept thinking, Don’t fill up on bread, but then I’d have to have just one more warm Breadtzel with some of that dip. The stuffie – better than any I’ve had in Rhode Island, even down in South County – is similar to the way my family makes stuffies: fluffy and rich tasting. The empanadas wrapped in puff pastry are incredibly light, flaky, and rather addictive, especially with the peach dipping sauce. The tomato soup is really a basic bisque, soaring into the
Mac & Cheese with Applewood Bacon stratosphere with the addition of crumbled, well-cooked bacon and cheddar cheese. Made with Vermont cheddar cheese, the creamy Mac & Cheese ($6 to $9) is yet another first-course option, and can be ordered “naked” as the menu suggests or taken to the next level with the addition of crab, pulled pork, short ribs, mushrooms and truffle oil, or applewood bacon. On my first visit, I happily went “naked” but most recently opted for the truffles. If you’re a fan of the woodsy truffle, this is the only way you will want your mac and cheese from now on. The three salads come in two sizes: one is large enough for two to share ($8.99), and the small version ($2.99) is perfect for one. We especially liked the House Salad, with all the expected ingredients well-coated with the housemade buttermilk and bacon dressing. Have you noticed that bacon is a recurring theme here? All this wonderful food was merely a prelude to the entrees I’ve enjoyed at The Dancing Pig. The very southern Stuffed Shrimp ($16.99) starts out with jumbo Key West shrimp, stuffed with native Jonah crab, baked and topped with étouffée sauce, right out of Louisiana. The pecan sweet potatoes were the perfect accompaniment. The Fish & Chips were a big surprise (but only because we hadn’t read the menu closely). The fish was not fried – it was roasted wild cod, served over thick-cut russet potatoes that were sprinkled with the restaurant’s secret seasoning. (Now that’s another recipe I’d like.) From the meatier side of the menu, the Dancing Pig Ribs ($16.99 for a large half rack) are excellent: dry-rubbed St. Louis-style ribs, smoked over hardwood for six hours, and then ever-so-lightly
brushed with a not overly sweet housemade barbecue sauce. The Meatloaf ($11.99) is a meat lover’s dream, a thick slice of Angus beef flavored with bacon and mushrooms. The best thing I ever ate at The Dancing Pig is the Angus Prime Rib ($18.99). I asked for an end cut, which I’ve always found has more seasoning, and therefore more flavor. The risk with an end cut is that it is often too well done, but Chef Smith manages to present a prime rib end cut that has a deep brown, flavorful crust and a very pink, tender interior. This magnificent cut of meat sat atop creamy Yukon Gold potatoes, with delicious creamed spinach on the side. The desserts ($5.99 each) at The Dancing Pig are as all-American as the rest of the menu. There’s a respectable Chocolate Truffle Cake coated with dark chocolate ganache and a perfectly fine Fried Cheesecake drizzled with caramel or blueberry sauce. But if you’re really lucky, you’ll be at The Dancing Pig on a night when a special dessert is offered: The Dancing Pig Newtons. These are ladyfinger sandwiches, filled generously with a fine figgy spread, sitting in a pool of crème anglaise. It just doesn’t get any better than that. Linda Beaulieu is the author of The Providence and Rhode Island Cookbook, available at stores throughout the state.
The Dancing Pig 48 West Wrentham Road, Cumberland 658-5151 thedancingpigri.com
May 2011 | Providence Monthly
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