Taste Drink by Caitlin Quinn
Tequila’s Cousin
Illustration: Ashley MacLure
Make way for mezcal, the new Mexican spirit in town It’s no secret that tequila is the Mexican spirit most commonly associated with Cinco de Mayo. I happen to love tequila; it’s one of those polarizing beverages and I land strongly on the pro side. However, a little change never hurt anyone. So this fifth of May, switch things up and try tequila’s lesser known cousin: mezcal. Like tequila, mezcal is made from agave. After seven years of plant puberty, the matured “piñas” – or hearts in the plant’s center – are harvested. It’s in the next step that tequila and mezcal form their identities. For tequila, the piñas are slowly baked in steam ovens, whereas for mezcal they are oven baked – usually underground – over charcoal or hot rocks. This gives mezcal its distinctive smoky taste. Tradition calls for mezcal to be savored straight, but Michael Lester, manager of M.S. Walker, a specialty spirits distributor in Warren, wants to expand mezcal’s horizons. “I really love agave based spirits because whether it’s Blue Weber from Jalisco (tequila) or Espadin from Oaxaca (mezcal), the spirit really expresses a strong sense of terroir,” he explains. “Because of its smokiness and depth of flavors, mezcal is not only appealing to sophisticated tequila drinkers but even more so to single malt scotch drinkers, especially those who like rich, peaty malts. The challenge is to push the limits of creativity while showcasing the spirit in cocktails.” As for how to showcase mezcal in all its cocktail glory, Lester stresses the importance of balance and harnessing and enhancing flavors, acid-
ity and sweetness. The better balance, the better cocktail. Lester adds, “The best bartenders and mixologists approach ingredients the same way as the best chefs do. Start with seasonally inspired, quality ingredients and let them shine. I love the smokiness of mezcal, and those buttery, orange, citrus peel, cherry, dried fruit, raisin, chocolate and cinnamon flavors are fun to work with in a wide range of recipes.” So why has mezcal taken a backseat to tequila here in the US? A combination of marketing and timing are to blame. “Tequila was first to the game with a premium brand and strong marketing campaign. Before the super premium tequila brands started to market tequila as a luxury item, it didn’t necessarily have a sparkling reputation,” says Lester. “Not all mezcals and tequilas are created equal. Many people are still afraid of tequila because of the horrible experience they had with one of the rot-gut brands of old. Today, there are many superior quality products on the market. Agave is now more often best appreciated as a sipping spirit first and used in cocktails second.” Mezcal Cocktail “A great summertime Mezcal drink that unfortunately I cannot claim as my own, but is delicious nonetheless,” Lester says. 1.25 oz. Ilegal Joven Mezcal .75 oz. honey-lavender syrup .75 oz. Cocchi Americano (an Italian aperitif) .5 oz. fresh lemon juice Shake and serve straight up
May 2011 | The BAY
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