IN THE KITCHEN: A

By Ann O’Neill

A Scottish Feast

DeWolf Tavern hosts their annual Robbie Burns Dinner with traditional and vegetarian fare

Much like the famed Scottish poet penned the “Address to a Haggis” to honor his country’s national dish, in January, restaurants far and wide host Robert Burns dinners to celebrate the man. For haggis connoisseurs, brave foodies, and poetry lovers alike here in the East Bay, DeWolf Tavern in Bristol – housed in the former DeWolf Rum Distillery – isn’t one to be left out of a holiday featuring whiskey.

Before settling in Rhode Island, Sai Viswanath, executive chef and co-owner of DeWolf, served as the chef of the renowned Indigo in Mumbai and then at Union Square Cafe in NYC. As he traveled the world to hone his culinary skills, it’s no surprise he came to embrace the Scottish tradition that’s become a world-wide celebration: the Robbie Burns Dinner.

“I’ve made friends of Scottish descent that approached me about holding the Robbie Burns Dinner and was up for the challenge,” says Viswanath. “I get excited about other cultures and their food.”

Though Viswanath grew up vegetarian, he prepares a traditional haggis containing sheep’s pluck (heart, liver, and lungs), mixed with onion, oatmeal, suet, and spices, and cooked in the stomach, though he assures that the mushroom-based vegetarian version he also prepares is equally savory.

“The Culinary Institute of America was where I tasted haggis first,” Viswanath explains. “Chefs cook with their senses, and I made my version to appeal to the palates of my customers. We do try to stay true to the traditional haggis, but there are so many di erent uses for spices.”

The meal at DeWolf includes the ubiquitous “neeps and tatties” or turnips and potatoes, and cock-a-leekie soup, which is predominantly leek and chicken stock with a grain thickener such as oatmeal or barley. Appetizers and desserts change with the year and diners will also enjoy chef-curated whiskey pairings with several courses.

Chef Viswanath admits to donning a kilt for the occasion, as he enjoys immersing himself in the culture. “The evening is engaging, informative, and fun-filled with great food, music, and beautiful dress. And yes, I am involved in addressing the guests!”

You’ll have to attend to see if that means Viswanath will recite the entire “Address to a Haggis,” but any event that’s persevered around the globe for over 222 years is certain to be a good time, whether you’re going all in or playing it safe with mushrooms. Viswanath’s best piece of advice is simple: “If you don’t like something, you don’t have to eat it!” The dinner takes place January 29 in the Bristol Harbor Room at DeWolf Tavern. Bristol, DeWolfTavern.com