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COLOUR TIPS We get to the root of the problem

USE YOUR DATA

Market to your base more effectively

SA Hair Awards

Meet the winners!

May 2021 | saloninternational.co.za


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In this issue... Regulars 4-6 Industry news Local and international news

15 Colourist Interview A top colour specialist shares their thoughts and ideas

18 The Big Debate Two industry leaders debate a hot topic affecting the industry

31 The Hot List What new products are now on the market

Business 23 Q and A with Jared Hines The inspiration behind an award winning business

26 The role of data in business Make the most of this valuable resource

Treatments 21 Colour Great tips for Afro hair

Collections 28 Lotus Candice McKay’s superb new collection

32 Poise Barry Maddocks’ hot new collection

32 Homage Recognising great inspiration from the 2020 British nominees at HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards.

The SIA awards 36 Who are the winners See the winners of the first ever Salon International Africa Awards sponsored by Schwarzkopf International

Welcome Firstly I would like to say WELCOME to the first ever Salon International Magazine. We are really excited to bringing this to you, free and available 24/7 for your reading pleasure. Hopefully you will find it to be a great source of inspiration, knowledge and a little bit entertaining as well. In this first issue we have a mix of content from both South Africa and Europe, the UK in particular. The UK content comes from our sister publication Hairdressers Journal International, the oldest trade publication in the world. This highly respected publication is widely rad throughout Europe, the USA and many other countries. We, hope that our publication will eventually reach such a wide audience. In this issue there are some great tips on improving your bottom line, great ideas on colour, plus focus on local businesses that are exciting in their approach to innovation. We also have some great collections that we think will inspire and excite you, our local SI overall award winner, Candice McKay has brought to us her superb LOTUS collection and we also have Poise, by Barry Maddocks from the UK. In addition some great images of some fantastic barbering saluting work from the British Hairdressers Awards entries. Enjoy the read.

Phil Special thanks to contributing editor Joanna Sterkowicz

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970

Cover photo Candice McKay of Wyatt Hairdressing and Barbering

online @ saloninternational.co.za

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INDUSTRY NEWS Hairdos that shone at the SAG Awards

There were classic Hollywoodstyle waves, as well as bobs and chic updos, aplenty at the 27th annual SAG (Screen Actors Guild Awards), which took place virtually on 4 April. Stars looked spectacular as they posed for pics in their gardens and houses, with absolutely no shortage of glam despite the absence of a physical red carpet. British actress Emma Corrin, who continues to win accolades

for her performance as Princess Diana in ‘The Crown Season 4’s, had her recently lightened hair in a short, ‘boy band’ length, graduated bob, With a cheekbonelength parted fringe, her hair was reminiscent of Victoria Beckham’s famous ‘Pob’, when she and David moved to Los Angeles all those years ago. In an unusual look for her, Dame Helen Mirren’s usually loose, collar length silver hair was scraped back

into a big bun, showing off her fine bone structure. Kerry Washington went for an all-out mermaid style, covering her hair completely with a bejewelled cap that matched her dress, all resulting in a striking and unusual look. Mindy Kaling had her glossy, dark locks swept behind the ears from an extreme side-parting, while Jurnee Smollett and Nicola Coughlan both opted for jawlength slicked back bobs. Zosia Mamet and Anja TaylorJoy channelled Golden Era Hollywood, a la Veronica Lake, with their long and tidily waved hair tucked behind one ear and flowing over the shoulder on the other side. (Report by Joanna Sterkowicz)

Schwarzkopf Professional introduces #BLONDESOFTHEWORLD Campaign Dedicated to creating premium blonde results, Schwarzkopf Professional has created the #BLONDESOFTHEWORLD Campaign, together with its Revamped Haircare Assortment. With salon clients often mistaking only lightening services for blonding, blonde can seem like an intense and exclusive option when it comes to hair colouring. That’s why Schwarzkopf Profofessional’s BLONDME has launched a diverse #BLONDESOFTHEWORLD campaign to showcase that with BLONDME, there is a blonde for everyone, irrespective of skin

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online @ saloninternational.co.za

colour, hair type, age or gender. The campaign highlights blondes from nine global metropolises, each with their personal blonde story. BLONDME’s colour portfolio specialises in tackling every blonde hair need, complemented by the newly revamped BLONDME Care range, which offers targeted premium haircare to all blonde hair types, from fine-to-normal and normal-to-coarse. This line-up delivers stronger neutralisation, offers dedicated purifying services to brighten up blonde tones and provides finishing products to perfect the hair. As part of the reformulation of the

BLONDME Care range, 3D Bond Creation Technology has been introduced; creating a product portfolio that strengthens hair from within. The integrated 3D Bond Creation Technology works across three integral steps of a BLONDME Blonding Service, combining Bond Protection, Bond Creation and Bond Maintenance for ultimate care.


NEWS Go to www.saloninternational and sign up for our newsletter updates

Halle Berry causes a stir at The Oscars

Jordanna Cobella from the UK writes book about mindful hairdressing A new book has just been published that could help all salon owners Cobella Salon owner and creative director Jordanna Cobella has written a book called ‘The Mindful Hairdresser’ to empower hairdressers, stylists and salon owners. Jordanna said: “As creatives, we’re constantly investing in our technical skills. The emotional intelligence and psychology involved in the everyday life of serving the public, however, is often taken for granted.” Jordanna put together a Mindful Hairdressing course and realised there is so much to cover on this topic. Her original take home document for attendees developed into this new book for hairdressers. Go to publishizer.com/the-mindful-hairdresser to find out more.

Possibly the most talked about style and not for the right reasons, was Halle Berry’s unusually short (and uneven) fringe, topping a tiny, graduated bob. Berry dazzled from the neck down in a beautiful orchid-coloured strapless gown, but her flawless face was not becomingly framed by a haircut that looked almost like a lockdown self-do. However, it was revealed a day later – to the great relief of many – that the choppy-looking bob was in actual fact, a wig. Berry reportedly had a good giggle about all the negative social media responses that the wig spawned.

Salons prioritising social media over their websites According to a new survey from global salon supplies wholesaler, SimplyHair, 44% of hair and beauty salons view social media as the biggest opportunity for growth. This percentage of respondents are focusing on growing their businesses’ social media profile this year, while 35% of hair professionals see growing their social media profile as offering the biggest opportunities for business growth. Nine out of ten (89%) salon owners believe that social media presence has a strong or very strong influence on how a client chooses a salon. Additionally, 78% of beauty and

hair professionals agree that a strong social media following will help them to attract higher-paying clientele, and justify charging more for current services. The survey suggests social media platforms are more important for business growth than a company website, as less than a tenth (9%) of salon professionals’ primary business focus is website development. The value placed on social media is also influencing other areas of business investment such as branding and aesthetics. Eightyfive-percent of salon professionals believe that brand look and salon design influence or strongly influence a client’s choice of salon, and 86% agree that high quality

photography helps to attract higher-paying clientele or justifies charging more for current services. Three quarters (75%) of respondents agree that ‘Instagrammable’ salon interiors will help them to attract higher-paying clientele and charge more for current services. As a result, one in 10 (12%) salon owners are focusing on updates for their salon’s interior design this year.

online @ saloninternational.co.za

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NEWS

L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Launches Run Le Hair Show

Run Le Hair Show from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris is the first digital hair show for hair professionals globally launching on 16 May. L’Oréal Professionnel Paris are reinventing the way they connect with professional hairdressers and all hair lovers with Run Le Hair Show. The innovative, 100% digital show is part web series and part talk show and will celebrate the role and cultural impact of hair professionals across the globe. Run Le Hair Show is at the heart of L’Oréal Professionnel Paris’ mission to support, partner with and develop strong relationships with coiffeurs, established for over 110 years. COVID-19 and global salon lockdowns has highlighted the importance of hair experts in our lives. More than ever, the impact of such a galvanising, far-reaching digital series, Run Le Hair Show hopes to touch the global hair community, upskilling and inspiring. The concept has already been tested with the pro hair community, with impressive results: 70% of pros expressed strong interest in watching it and 80% of Pros wish to star in it – proof that valorising the community is highly valued and will continue to make a strong impact.

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online @ saloninternational.co.za

Every episode will feature 7 dynamic segments designed to spotlight all corners of the industry: •

• • • • •

La Masterclass: Technical classes in colour, lightening, cut and style, led by the industry’s boldest and brightest Tête-a-tête: Intimate interviews with legendary Hair Pros Pro Secrets: Expert tips and tricks from members of the international hair community La Revue: Skilled trend analysis from street style to the runway to the salon chair Le Lab: Cutting-edge hair science, from fibre to product formula Road to le Style + Colour Trophy: Following the evolution of L’Oréal Professionnel’s worldwide Pro hair competition, culminating in its global finale Stand for Pros: Highlighting inspiring positive actions, from salon sustainability to the health and wellbeing of our Pros

Three hosts will set the stage: Charlie le Mindu, Hair Designer; Min Kim, Colour Specialist and Peggy Frey, Fashion + Trend Journalist. Together, they will act as the golden thread between segments and provide sharp, cross-industry eyes on every subject. Run Le Hair Show’s first episode, ‘La Premiere’ will air globally at 6pm CET on 16 May 2021 on YouTube. It will feature La Masterclass showcasing an extreme lightening transformation lead by host Charlie le Mindu, showcase trends from the brand’s international pro community and take a scientific dive into L’Oréal Professionnel Paris’ NEW disruptive haircare innovation, Metal Detox. We will update you with further inspiring episodes to follow before the end of the year. Subscribe to L’Oréal Professionnel Paris’ Youtube channel for all Run Le Hair Show alerts and follow @ lorealpro on Instagram to stay up to date with all the latest Run Le Hair Show news.


OUR MISSION

There’s nothing in the world like the beauty of healthy hair. Its vitality, color, and shine light up a room and lift the spirit. JOICO has a name for this remarkable energy. We call it “Joi”. Joi is at the heart of everything we do.

OUR VISION

Spreading the Joi of Healthy Hair to every stylist and client, making for a more beautiful world.

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‘Suite’ THE

LIFE

Just over a year old, the innovative Terenzo Suites concept in Dunkeld, Johannesburg, was created to offer a platform for stylists who want to run their own businesses. JOANNA STERKOWICZ speaks to founder/ owner, TERENCE JANSEN VAN VUUREN, to find out more.

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ituated at 26 Bompas, Terenzo Suites is slap bang in the middle of Johannesburg’s affluent Northern Suburbs and the upmarket feel of the complex is immediately apparent, with full length glass windows, marble floors and chandeliers.

With Terenzo Suites, stylists can start their own business straight away in a seamless process, as every suite is already completely outfitted and equipped. Stylists literally need only a client base and a credit card machine. What is essentially a precinct of independent hair salons, Terenzo Suites is the brainchild of Terence Jansen Van Vuuren, an international performing artist, L’Oréal Colour Trophy winner, and L’Oréal Colour Ambassador. Says Jansen Van Vuuren: “Terenzo Suites is a completely unique concept in South Africa and I describe it as ‘the Uber

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of hairdressing’ in that it is a totally new way for stylists to do business. My inspiration came from the realisation that most stylists who are employed at salons are looking for something more and want to work for themselves. “With Terenzo Suites, stylists can start their own business


straight away in a seamless process, as every suite is already completely outfitted and equipped. Stylists literally need only a client base and a credit card machine. Each suite has basins, plumbing, plug points, Wifi, a fridge, coffee machine, music system, pre-paid electricity meter, reception desk and retail space. Toilets, parking and security are all included, so the suite owner literally just pays their rent. They are welcome to hire their own staff as long as it’s not on a rent-a-chair basis – it must be either salary or commission based.” There is a large area downstairs in the complex that houses several communal reclining beds and basins, should any suite owner find that they need an extra basin for clients at any particular time. Terenzo Suites also has its own generator – something that is vitally important in this dark era of frequent load shedding.

Branding Terenzo Suites comprises 13 individual suites, including Jansen Van Vuuren’s own suite. Each suite owner has their own branding, which is displayed within the Terenzo Suites logo on their door. Some of the upstairs suites even have their own wooden deck. “I’m very proud that we have just signed our first-ever ethnic hair suite – Hair by Twinz – run by two stylist sisters who are very well known in the industry,” he notes. “That’s another important aspect about Terenzo Suites – the suite owners all have their own particular specialities, so they are able to cross-refer clients within the complex. “We even cater for clients’ skincare and anti-ageing needs, as one of the suites is occupied by Dr Nadia Dannhauser’s For Beautiful Life aesthetic practice.”

Expansion The Terenzo Suites concept has proved so successful that a new suite was recently added to the

complex, to accommodate an existing suite owner who wanted to grow his business and needed a bigger space in which to offer nails as well as hair. In addition, Jansen Van Vuuren is renovating the back garden of the property to create a luxurious, partially covered outdoor relaxation area for clients, as well as a designated space for the staff of the various suites in which to take their tea and lunch breaks. This area will include a small pool and four outdoor hairdressing stations for stylists to perform Brazilian blowouts.

Advantages In outlining the many advantages of the Terenzo Suites concept for independent stylists, Jansen Van Vuuren points out that suite owners don’t have to invest a huge amount of money upfront before starting their businesses. He continues: “If you are opening up your own salon, you would need to spend hundreds of thousands of rands on outfitting and equipping the salon and your landlord would probably demand a double deposit, as well as the first month’s rent up front. At Terenzo Suites you just pay the rent. “The beauty for suite owners is that they can work according to their own preferred hours and at their own pace. Stylists earn more money and are able to build up their unique brands. In turn, clients benefit from this focused attention in a RollsRoyce space, so they are getting more for their money.” Stylists are able to purchase L’Orèal and Redken stock from Terenzo Suites at cost price.

They are, however, free to use other reputable professional brands, should they so wish.

Criteria Jansen Van Vuuren’s only requirement to qualify as a Terenzo Suite owner is that the stylist be successful, as he only wants quality hairdressers working in the complex. “I’m very well entrenched in the industry so it will come to my attention whether a stylist is suitable or not. We have different types of leases available, from one to five years. “Terenzo Suites is a massive operation but still exudes a high end, exclusive boutique feel. This concept doesn’t exist anywhere in Africa. In America there are similar concepts, but they only have one chair per suite. “If there are any stylists out there interested in starting their own businesses, they are welcome to call me on 083 660 5615, or my PA, Kim Khalil on 083 602 6782,” concludes Jansen Van Vuuren. PB

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BUSINESS

Robert Eaton has worked alongside his father, Russell, since he was 16 running a successful UK business between the two of them. We ask pertinent questions about how it works.

LIKE FATHER, LIKE SON What’s it like working with family?

Russell: I feel privileged to work with my children. The only negative is we never stop. Talking about work becomes a way of life, particularly being actively involved in the industry. Robert: I love the trust and reassurance we have as we’re all working towards the same goal. We’re there to support each other. It’s difficult to separate work time and family life – it’s something we are not very good at. We try to ban work chat at the weekend, but it often creeps in. What have you learned from working together?

Russell on Robert: I’ve seen you grow from a 16-year-old apprentice into the hairdresser you are today. You had a traditional apprenticeship and built your column from there. It’s given me great pleasure to see you learn from icons in the industry, like when you were part of the Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s Project: X team. You’re incredibly passionate about the industry and what we do. I’ve learned to listen to you and all of the younger members of the team – it’s a continual growth for me. Robert on Russell: It’s your work ethic – you work hard, stay focussed and true to what you believe in. Watching you has taught me a lot about running a business. I’ve had an apprenticeship in both hairdressing and how to run a salon. Many of your decisions were successful, but you see the less successful ones as learning experiences too.

What’s the best piece of advice you’ve received from each other?

Russell on Robert: Artistically I love listening to you – you are so talented and it’s a genuine pleasure listening to you talk. When you started out, someone with a prominent salon in London said: “Listen to Dad, we are in the trenches together” and I do believe you listen, even now! Robert on Russell: Work hard, stay true to your beliefs and be respectful – you’ve ensured I am always respectful to the people I work with and other hairdressers. As a business owner I’ve made difficult decisions at times and people don’t always like you for that, but it’s so important to be respectful, regardless of the situation. What’s the secret to running a successful salon?

Russell: Hard work combined with passion. It’s not a job – it’s our lifestyle. Be consistent and make sure you build your foundation slowly and make it strong. Never forget the reason you are doing it – to look after clients. Robert: Understanding the team and the people that work for you. Salons are made up of the people that work in it and their personalities. It’s important to understand what drives them – is it the creative aspect of hairdressing, are they financially motivated, or just want to be happy in the workplace and enjoy coming to work? This is the key learning for us over the years and we also believe you need to be there so you can deal with issues and problems first-hand on a daily basis.

How would you describe each other?

Russell on Robert: You are a modest and real person – there’s no ego. You’re very humble despite your successes. You’re a hairdresser’s hairdresser who is always happy to help. You’re forward-thinking and unique as a colourist. You always give 100% to everything you do and want clients to relate to what you do by creating beautiful wearable hair. Robert on Russell: The biggest perfectionist I know. You are an incredible haircutter with a huge passion for the industry – even though you’re approaching your 70s, you’re still as passionate as ever. You have worked so hard over the years to build the business and the brand and make it the success it is today. What was the initial goal for your career?

Russell: We opened with a six-chair salon and my goal was to grow it to a bigger salon on the high street. After three years we moved to the high street position we still occupy in Barnsley. Leeds came along many years later. It’s a city centre salon, which is a huge commitment but it’s working. I also wanted to build a reputation and be involved within the wider industry. Robert: My goal was to become the best hairdresser I could be, develop the family business and learn as much as I could. You gave me Trevor Sorbie’s book when I first started in the industry and wrote – “one day this could be you” – I look back now and think how you inadvertently set me that goal.

RUSSELL AND ROBERT’S INDUSTRY PREDICTIONS

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Russell: If the freelance market continues the way it is, online @ saloninternational.co.za my worry is there will be fewer salons in the city centres. In turn, this could result in a skill shortage, and less

Robert: Salon life brings amazing things to hairdressers – sharing ideas, working together, bouncing off each other, mentoring and apprenticeships. People aren’t investing


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Business

Business Trends

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Are you an

EMPLOYER

or a LEGAL OWNER? Let the EOHCB Add Value to Your Business! The Employers’ Organisation for Hairdressing, Cosmetology and Beauty (EOHCB) is a constituted and registered Employers’ Organisation as per the Labour Relations Act, 66 of 1995. It is a non-profit organisation, which promotes the interest of its members by protecting and supporting the needs of Employers and Legal Owners through Collective Bargaining, Labour Relations support and quality industry education and training

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online @ saloninternational.co.za

development and regulation. The EOHCB is the only employers’ organisation within South Africa who is a party to the National Bargaining Council for Hairdressing, Cosmetology, Beauty and Skincare Industry and who engages in collective bargaining on behalf of its members the employers and legal owners of the industry. We continuously strive to provide our members with a full range of services and benefits and endeavour to address the needs of our members with integrity, professionalism and sound business practice. Through membership to the EOHCB, our members have various platforms to contribute to the collective bargaining process, which interest all participants within the Hairdressing, Cosmetology, Beauty and Skincare Industry.

We derive mandates from our members which are tabled, presented and negotiated through the collective bargaining process. The process is conducted by elected Employers and Legal Owners and facilitated by the appointed operational staff of the organisation. In order to apply for voluntary membership to the EOHCB, your establishment must to be registered with the National Bargaining Council for Hairdressing, Cosmetology, Beauty and Skincare Industry. If you are not yet registered, call upon us and we will assist you. We have offices throughout South Africa which is convenient and representation is guaranteed. Membership to the EOHCB is paid for by a monthly subscription. Your subscription entitles you to various services and benefits such as in this table:


Business

• •

• •

• •

• •

• • • • • • •

Labour Relations Support and advise. Drafting and implementation of company policies, contracts of employment, disciplinary codes and procedures etc. Assisting legal owners with lease agreements for chairs/spaces rented. Internal discipline and performance management. Consultation, implementation of short time/reduced working hours/days and retrenchments. Legal owners who have employees of the establishment from whom they renting a chair/space from cleaning their workstations etc. may be held jointly and severely liable for retrenchment packages. Representation at internal disciplinary hearings, conciliation and arbitration at the CCMA and or National Bargaining Council for Hairdressing Cosmetology, Beauty and Skincare Industry. Facilitation with the application of the main collective agreement of the industry and compliance thereof. Assistance with exemption applications and account queries through the National Bargaining Council for Hairdressing, Cosmetology, Beauty and Skincare Industry. Representation and facilitation with collective bargaining with the representing trade union of the industry. Our members through the EOHCB can contribute to Governmental Employment Regulations such as COIDA (Compensation for Occupational Injuries and Diseases Act). Members are assisted with Hazardous Biological Agent prevention compliance (COVID-19 and all its legal, Health and Safety compliance obligations). Members are provided with COVID-19 Guidelines, Regulations and Symptom monitoring and management. Guidance and management of Health and Safety in the Workplace. Assistance and guidance in matters relating to the “World of Work” where even a Legal owner could end up at the CCMA. Guidance in participation and access to UIF benefits. Guidance and assistance with POPIA compliance. Competition Juror and Wisemen Training. Labour and Business seminars and workshops. Industry interaction such as professional annual hair, nail, beauty and makeup artistry competitions hosted by the EOHCB.

INTERESTED? Visit our website www.eohcb.co.za to make contact with us. We look forward to having the privilege to add value to your business. Employer – Any person who employs or provides work for any person and remunerates or expressly or tacitly undertakes to remunerate him, or who permits any person whosoever in any manner assist him carrying on or conducting his business. Legal Owner – Any person, partnership, enterprise or entity of whatsoever nature that conducts hairdressing or cosmetology or beauty or skincare services from an establishment, the premises of which is either owned by the proprietor, hired from the owner of such premises, hires from any other person that has the right to occupy such premises, or occupies such premises by virtue of an agreement concluded with the owner of such premises or any other person that has the right to occupy such premises. A legal owner either trades under his/her/its own name or under the name and style of the establishment or that of any other employer or legal owner, and employs no employees, and may include persons that are normally referred to in the hairdressing industry as rent-a-chair.

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Be part of the COLOUR REVOLUTION everyone is talking about

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COLOURIST INTERVIEW

ions t a s r e v Con

on

R U O COL with…

Carolyn Newman

International educator and colour consultant Carolyn Newman explains why colouring hair is like being a scientist, baker and artist all rolled into one

What do you love most about being a colourist? colouring. I would like to be doing creative and bold colour like I love the technical parts of hair colouring. I honestly feel like that more regularly. colourists get to be scientists, bakers and artists – all in one job. The What are the biggest challenges facing professional measuring part of colouring is like being a scientist, the mixing colourists at the moment? part is like being a baker and colour application makes me feel like I do get concerned that two key techniques a true artist. I love it! and looks are Where do you go for your colour being carried out – balayage and blended inspiration? brights. Even though these are technical I get inspired from seeing what upservices, they are mainly created on and-coming colourists are doing. I longer hairstyles. I’d love to see more may not use those techniques on my short and textured haircuts on social clients, but I like seeing how others media so we can colour these cuts and push the boundaries of colour. I also create get inspired from those who cut hair. a real client buzz. ARD BO D O O M 'S N LY RO I love thinking how I could colour What’s been your most CA the amazing haircuts I see on social memorable colour consultation? media. One of my favourite consultations was "This moodboard showcases What are your favourite colouring when I met Paloma Picasso. After the what I’m loving in terms of techniques at the moment? consultation, we agreed to move her ink colours and styles. I really I’m really into colouring naturally black hair colour to a charcoal grey to curly hair. Over the past few years this soften her look and she loved it. like modern mullet and shag has become my speciality and I've What colour creation makes haircuts. My colour, style created three curl colouring techniques you most proud? inspiration and hair crush is – Curl Painting, Curl Blending and A long time ago I did a feature in this very 1970s Stevie Nicks - I love her Curl Smudging. I even have a hashtag magazine where I created the first tie dye combination of nude blonde #carolyncolorscurls. I believe you colour technique. It moved into dip dye and golden tones. Mark Rothko techniques which have progressed into have to treat hair types like different fabrics, for example you would treat free hand techniques. I feel proud that is my favourite artist and I love cotton different to wool. I approach and I was one of the first colourists to create his blend of block colours colour curls in this way so I would work which I like to translate into hair these looks. differently when colouring straight hair What do you enjoy most about colour." compared with curly hair. your role? What colour trends are you pleased I love how colour techniques are to see out of fashion? evolving and I enjoy teaching and working To be honest there is not a particular trend with hairdressers on enhancing their I dislike, however I’d like clients to trust our skillsets. I also love spending valuable time expertise rather than bringing in a picture of with my clients. someone else and wanting that exact look. What advice would you give to a Everyone is unique and we need to translate trainee colourist? that look to suit our client and their hair. Learn and master the technical colour basics Clients need to understand that. first. After that you can play with colour on

either models or mannequin heads to get creative. A unique colourist is someone who can combine creativity with sound technical knowledge.

Are there any colouring trends or techniques you’d like to bring back? I’ve always liked graphic block and panel online @ saloninonline @ pro-

online @ saloninternational.co.za

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CUTTING

A SAFE PAIR OF H NDS

As a hairdresser your hands are your most valuable asset, so it’s important to look after them for a long and healthy career

Adapt your stance for the cut

“As hairdressers we haven’t been working solidly for over a year and we need to give ourselves a bit of extra time to get back into the cutting mode, build up our skills, fitness and creativity,” explains Akin Konizi, creative director at HOB Salons. “Cutting hair is like riding a bike, but we need to recondition our bodies for the busy days back in the salon. That involves allowing your skill level to increase again,” he says. Read on for lots of useful tips to avoid aches and pains when you're cutting hair over the coming months...

“I tell everyone I teach about the importance of having the right posture whilst cutting,” explains Mark Hayes, Sassoon International creative director. “This is partly because a better result can be achieved when you’re operating in a more comfortable and stable position. Operating in this way causes less stress on the body, especially over a career lifetime. For example, when cutting a line on longer hair, have the client stand whilst resting their hands on the back of a chair, rounding their shoulders gently will assist the comfort for the operator,” he says. “When cutting a bob length, I always advise the stylist to bend their knees and not their back. This means they will be looking at their work in a more comfortable position. It will also stop you from bending forwards from the waist and the stress that puts on the lower back.”

Find the right scissors for you

“There are many brands, shapes and sizes on the market so it’s important to try as many as possible to find what is comfortable for your hand and movement,” says Darren Ambrose of D&J Ambrose. “Remember scissors become an extension of your fingers when you're a hairdresser. This means it’s vital for them to fit well and feel comfortable.” Additionally, make sure your posture is correct. “Injuries can be a result of bad posture, for example, bending in bad positions, leaning or favouring one side,” he adds. “A hydraulic system in a chair is there for a reason. Use it all the time when needed and a cutting stool for eye level work. When cutting long hair, ask the client to stand upright while you use a cutting stool to work at eye level on your base line, which is better for your back and neck.”

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online @ saloninternational.co.za

Choose the right scissor for the job

“I work with all different hair types so I have eight or nine pairs of scissors,” explains Desmond Murray of Atherton Cox salon. “I have a great cutting scissor that is short and long, a fine refining thinning scissor and a chunkier thinning scissor. I also have a pair of serrated scissors,” he says. “I apply them depending on the texture of the hair or what I’m hoping to achieve. I choose the scissor for the job it’s supposed to do as opposed to anything else.”

Check in with your neck

“Repetitive stress injuries like carpal tunnel syndrome are common among hairdressers, but before turning to surgery, have a doctor or physical therapist check your neck – 60% to 70% of the time the issue originates there,” explains Andrew Carruthers, education director at Sam Villa. “Many stylists hang their heads down and forward all day causing discs to slip. This puts pressure on nerves in the neck that travel down the arm to the elbow and wrist. Physical therapy can often be a less evasive treatment.”


Keep your body in alignment

“The most important thing you can do is move everything so your body is always aligned,” says Cos Sakkas, international artistic director and head of education at TONI&GUY. “Your scissors are an extension of your arm, which is an extension of your body. It needs to be as straight and upright as possible at all angles,” he adds. “Move from your knees rather than your hips or waist. Think feet, knees, hips and when you’ve got those correct, you’ve got the foundation for the right position.” Jonathan Andrew, Fudge Professional global brand ambassador agrees. He says: “I always keep my arms and elbows down and tight towards my body, as it gives me more structure when cutting hair and allows me to be more technical and doesn’t add strain to my shoulders or my back.”

Get your client to work with you

“Invest in a good chair where the hydraulics work really well – a chair that will encourage your client to sit straight and feel comfortable,” says British Hairdresser of the Year at HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional, Sally Brooks. “I hate it when a client reads their phone and their head means I have to adjust my body position. For me, it is most important that the client gives me tension in their head – you all know the flippy-floppy, jelly-head client that follows you with their head wherever you go, so you can end up doing acrobatics when cutting,” she says. To minimise this, communicate with your client during their appointment. “Ask them politely to respect your craft. This means you can deliver a great service without getting aches.”

DESMOND MURRAY

DARREN AMBROS

CANDICE MCKAY

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CUTTING

Treat your profession as a sport

“It helps to see hairdressing as a sport as well as a craft – you need to be fit and agile enough to deal with the gruelling work that fills your day,” says Akin. “When I’ve had a break for a while and worked continuously for full days, I feel like I have done a round with Mike Tyson – and been run over by a bus. Don’t underestimate the energy we need for our job. Sleep and eat well, make sure you have some breaks and do some small exercises that really help your posture,” he says. Darren agrees: “Keeping up your stamina is important. I find running, Wim Hof breathing techniques and a 40-second ice-cold shower every day gives great circulation.” Read our experts' tips below for activities that can help you maintain a long and healthy career...

TIPS FOR HEALTHY HAIRDRESSING THE ALEXANDER TECHNIQUE There should never be pain or discomfort when you’re cutting, explains Errol Douglas of Errol Douglas London. "The Alexander technique teaches improved posture and movement, which is believed to help reduce and prevent problems caused by unhelpful habits," he says. “During a number of lessons, you’re taught to be more aware of your body, how to improve poor posture and move more efficiently. I practice this every day to prevent slouching or bending over.” You should also check how supportive your footwear is for the salon floor. “The biggest culprit is wearing the wrong shoes so you must take the flooring into consideration," he adds.

YOGA AND PILATES “Vidal Sassoon spent a lifetime being dedicated to fitness, including stretching, yoga and Pilates all of which he credited to his incredible physique throughout,” says Mark. “There are now so many online and (when allowed) inperson opportunities to participate in these extremely helpful practises so your body remains flexible and able to deal with the rigours of cutting and colouring hair.” Errol agrees: "I also recommend Hot Yoga, Yin or any exercise which alleviates back. shoulder or arm pain. Swimming is superb, as are regular massages. Mobility is so important as all of us hairdressers are always on our feet."

ESSENTIAL STRETCHES “Being a hairdresser who has had a bad wrist, back and shoulders, I’ve learned some great techniques from personal trainers and physiotherapists over the years,” explains Akin. “Every morning, with your arms behind your back, get a towel and stretch your arms out straight. Stretch out your chest for 20 seconds – chin up. Next, put your elbows and forearms on a doorframe at shoulder height and gently push against it for 30 seconds. For wrists, stand facing a wall, stretch your arm out in front of you, point fingers down, and push against the wall with your palm until it is flat and hold that for 10 seconds. Do it at least once a day.”

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BUSINESS

The Debate

Should you charge men and women different prices? It’s a topic that drums up a lot of debate. We posed the question to two salon owners who weighed in with their thoughts…

“We have a menu for short hair, medium haircuts and long, thick haircuts.” “When we opened our salon 18 months ago, we knew we needed to adapt to the times. We had seen a different type of pricing structure in our previous salon, so we knew an alternative could work. As an industry we have always had different prices for men and for women, but if the client is sat in the chair for the same amount of time, why charge one person more than another? When we first opened, men got their hair cut more regularly but men’s prices were lower, while many female clients came into the salon for the same amount of time but were paying more. So, we changed our price structure based on time rather than gender – now we have a menu for short hair, medium haircuts and long, thick haircuts. They are spending the same amount of time in the chair so the price is the same. Our main clientele is female and this option has strengthened our business because our guests with shorter hair come back more frequently. Our male clientele is small, however they stay loyal because of the experience we offer. They understand they pay more because of the calibre of the services we provide. If they wanted a quick short, back and sides they realise they could go elsewhere. The advantages of being a gender-neutral salon is equality for all of our clients and pricing on time rather than gender ensures our services remain profitable. For a cut and style on short hair, this is a 30-minute appointment and costs from £45 (depending on the stylist’s experience); a regular cut and blow-dry takes 45 minutes and costs from £60, while longer, thicker hair which takes 60 minutes plus, costs from £80. If we’re cutting men’s short hair, or women’s short hair, the time we spend is approximately the same. The most important thing we do is work to the clock – not to the task.”

Noel Halligan and Corey Taylor, NOCO Hair, Bristol

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“Male clients take less time than female clients so men pay less.” “Our clientele is 33% men and 67% women. However, with our top stylists it tends to be an equal split. For a men’s cut I charge £32, while for a women’s cut I charge £50. It makes sense to have different prices for men and women based on the amount of time in my chair. It’s impossible to have a one-price-fits-all structure as there are many variations in terms of experience, resulting in time spent in the salon being very different. A male client spends less time than a female client, so men pay less. I believe in keeping our pricing simple while accommodating varying expertise levels. Stylists have the opportunity to charge for a standard cut and finish or a re-style and finish. This allows flexibility to charge on time spent in the chair, while the client knows what they will be charged, which in turn boosts their loyalty. Inevitably, a men’s haircut will take less time, so we charge accordingly. You can word your price list to include ‘from’ to accommodate any extra time spent. One price doesn’t work for us or the services we offer because simply, the time taken to complete the tasks are often different. It is widely recognised that men’s cuts take less time as there is less blow-drying required. Offering this price structure not only allows you to manage the operating costs of your business more effectively, but offer guests fairness in price. The best advice I could offer is to understand how long it will take the stylist to do the job. The labour cost of a haircut is the largest part of it followed by the salon running costs. You need to build these costs in, which will allow you to consider the profit margin you want to achieve, and as men spend less time in the salon, it makes sense to charge them less.”

David Corbett, David Corbett Hairdressing, Bothwell, Glasgow


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Business Trends

LAUNCHES

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Join the New Age of Haircare Find Your REFerence

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N, W EATO ERT ELLA F PRO NAL ESSIO

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G N I R U

COLOUR

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HOW DOES AFRO HAIR DIFFER TO CAUCASIAN OR ASIAN HAIR? “Hair is made of keratin and amino acids. Its outer layer – the cuticle – is there to protect the inside of the hair shaft from any external damage,” says Anne Veck, owner of Anne Veck. “The colour pigments eumelanin and pheomelanin are the same. Where extremely textured hair differs is in the number of cuticle layers present and how they lay on the hair. Generally speaking, more eumelanin than pheomelanin are present as the average colour is usually a base 4 or darker. Because of this, the rules of colours are the same. As you lift the hair you will expose the red/orange and yellow pigments and you need to decide once you’ve exposed the underlying pigments whether you will use it or lose it.”

What should I cover in the consultation?

“With Afro hair always check if your client has had any chemical treatments, such as relaxers. This will determine the colour to be applied,” advises Tracy Hayes, Fudge Professional global colour ambassador. “If so, a complete colour change to blonde may not be possible without forfeiting the condition. If in doubt always do a colour strand test,” she says. “Preparation and consultation are key for any colour client,” adds Joe Hill, Aveda UK international technical capability manager. “When approaching colour for a client with a textured hair type, anything from 3b to 4c, a pre-treatment is almost like the insurance to your colour service. This will help with manageability when combing and sectioning the hair

throughout the colour service,” he says. “Textured coloured hair can often be very porous. That’s why I love to work with a porosity equaliser like Aveda’s Botanical Repair Equalising Primer. This is sprayed throughout the hair just before applying the colour to prime the cuticle and cortex ready for the colour,” he says. Can colouring Afro hair alter the natural curl pattern?

“The curlier the hair, the less even the distribution of keratin,” explains Vivica Davies, ALFAPARF Milano international educator. “Extreme lightening services, such as bleaching, can alter the curl pattern. Therefore, it is important to approach extreme lightening carefully, to minimise damage and help maintain the elasticity and vitality of the curl. The first step is to check the condition

of the hair fibre to ensure it is strong enough to withstand a bleaching service,” she says. “Combine this with a type 4 fine texture, and the result is a hair texture that is particularly delicate. Using a permanent colour, such as ALFAPARF’s Evolution of the Color, on natural hair will not alter the shape of the hair, since it creates a maximum of 4 levels of lightening and contains nutritive ingredients,” she says. How should you approach highlights?

“Freehand hair colouring is a perfect choice for Afro hair as you can analyse the hair texture and where the curls fall to see which areas of the hair would look best highlighted,” explains Suzie McGill, Schwarzkopf Professional ambassador and international artistic director at Rainbow Room International.

AFRO HAIR

SIA asked the experts to answer your critical questions about colouring Afro hair

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COLOUR “The JOICO

She adds: “Hand painting and balayage is the best way to give the curls definition. It allows you to see the finished result and you can change certain placements where necessary. If placed correctly highlights will add a shine to the hair. Whereas if done incorrectly, they could make the hair appear dull.”

Hayes. “We’ll see lots she says. The team at Lumishine range has of singular pieces of Slunks Salon, a Crazy a highly concentrated tonal colour being Color sponsored cool ash pigment. It placed within the salon, add that completely gets rid of any hair texture. When home maintenance red/orange underto nes which placing the colour is important too. are commonly found in darker take note of how “Explain how depths and creates the most the curls lay and they could top beautiful natural finish ” pick accordingly. up their colour Dan Spiller, JOICO co lour Don’t be scared to at home, such as ambassador for the UK, take larger sections adding Crazy Color Europe and Ireland than you would on into their shampoo or straight hair,” she says. conditioner. We would “Always use plenty of product recommend washing in cool with Afro hair and work through water to help stop colour fading.” each section to ensure an even What aftercare advice should you colour distribution and finish.”

How can I manage expectations for a big colour transformation?

“Make sure your colour choices are realistic and are something the hair can withstand,” says Robert Eaton, creative director at Russell Eaton salons and UK and Ireland technical director at Wella Professionals. “Safely bleaching hair is about assessing the quality, density and condition. My go-to is always low and slow,” adds Clayde Baumann, global colour director at D&J Ambrose and Wella Passionista. He adds: “Afro hair needs a gentle touch and moisturising aftercare.”

“One of the main points I discuss with my Afro clients prior to a vivid service is bleaching,” says Amber Letham, Crazy Color sponsored stylist. “Excessive bleaching isn’t worth the loss of a curl pattern,” she says. “If the hair hasn’t lifted enough to achieve the vivid goal, I’d rather work on the hair gently over a course of appointments than blast through the hair in one session and see the curls permanently drop,”

How should I place colour for the best results?

“After lockdown we’ll see natural texture and curls,” predicts Tracy

CK

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ANN

, HT RIG T-W PF OT KO AL SC ARZ ION TIM HW ESS SC OF PR

How can I bleach Afro hair while minimising damage?

“We should always treat Afro hair and make sure its in the best condition before colouring. milk_shake Cocoa Natural Care Mask is my go-to in-salon treatment. I always use milk_shake Smoothies because they are ammonia-free and have that extra conditioning power that guarantees outstanding results while being kind to the hair.” David Vault-Baker, milk_shake ambassador and owner of Vault Hair & Spa

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give to clients with Afro hair?

“If you’re new to Afro hair listen to your clients’ needs first,” says Marco Dias, owner of The Studio by Marco Dias and a Wella Passionista. “Afro clients will definitely know what is lacking in their own hair. Aftercare is about depositing back all hydration and nutrients lost from the hair when we colour it with oils and proteins. The Nutricurls line from Wella Professionals is one of my favourites,” says Marco. Mark Leeson, Revlon Professional global artistic ambassador agrees. He says: “Daily maintenance is key and while washing hair should be kept to once or twice a week, make sure clients know to moisturise their hair every day. I love Revlon Professional Equave Instant “I’ve realised Detangling d ur in g consultations Leave In th e huge influence we Conditioner. have on clie nt with our soci al media po s It locks the sts. This is a grea moisture in to showcase ne pportunity to but is light w products a nd techniques fo enough to r A fro ha ir.” Tyler William not affect son, owner o f ELEVEN Austr curls and alia Salon Blo Hair Stud coils.” io

How can I achieve vivid colours?

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DAVID VAULT-BAKER, MILK-SHAKE

“Schwarzkopf Professional BLONDME bleach is my go-to product for lightening Afro hair because the bonding technology is built into the product,” says Tim Scott-Wright, Schwarzkopf Professional ambassador. “Afro hair will soak up colour like a sponge as its structure means bleach can take a while to penetrate through,” he explains. “The colour will take a long time to lift initially, but once it starts, it lifts very quickly. Keep a close eye on bleach when colouring Afro hair and reapply where the hair needs it. The reapplication process is important as the hair texture is quick to absorb the product,” he adds.


Interview

Talking to… Jared Hines

When did you first open Hines & Harley and what was your motivation? I opened Hines & Harley in December of 2015 because I wanted to create a space where men could feel comfortable in an environment that offered all spa and barber treatments.

I believe you had over a decade’s worth of experience in the spa industry before you opened the salon? Yes, I started my studies at Camelot International in 2005 and qualified in 2007. I have worked in some of South Africa’s top spas, namely Mount Grace and The Saxon. In addition, I have also had cruise ship experience with Canyon Ranch.

developed a good understanding of how to run a business properly – from housekeeping to back office, and at a 5-star level, it helped me to notice the small details that most people miss.

Everything at Hines & Harley is set up in the way I would do the treatments and the way I would like to have the treatments, and it makes a big difference.

How did all this experience help you in setting up your own salon?

Both you and Hines & Harley have won several Professional Beauty Awards – do you use these accolades in terms of marketing?

Thanks to the experience I gained from these top companies working in every position, I

Yes we do, we have the banner awards up on our website and we do like to mention them every

Elaine Okeke Martin

What makes for a successful male grooming salon, JOANNA STERKOWICZ talks to JARED HINES, the award-winning founder of Hines & Harley Men’s Grooming Lounge.

now and then in our online social media posts.

You are a hands-on manager – is this something that is appreciated by clients? It is and our clients can feel the difference when they enter the salon. I believe that this shows in the experience upon arrival and during the treatments. Everything is set up in the way I would do the treatments and the way I would like to have the treatments, and it makes a big difference.

How big is your team at Hines & Harley? We are currently a team of four, all qualified spa therapists. This also makes a big impact on the quality and service.

In the past few years there seem to have been a spate of male-centric salons opening up, either as franchises or online @ saloninternational.co.za

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Interview

experience – from the website, to booking, to the treatment and even afterwards with home care products. We want the clients to feel our positive energy from the get go. I have always said that unhappy staff create unhappy clients. This is why I have tried to create a pleasant work environment, as well as not over working staff, and ensuring that they are paid their worth in order to keep everything running smoothly.

independent. How has this affected your business? I think it has affected us in a positive way. With the boom in these salons opening up, they have allowed more and more male clients to become aware of the services on offer. Inevitably when clients then look for a

I have always said that unhappy staff create unhappy clients. This is why I have tried to create a pleasant work environment, as well as not over working staff, and ensuring that they are paid their worth in order to keep everything running smoothly.. more bespoke and higher quality treatment and service, they end up with us.

The décor, style and ambience of Hines & Harley seems to reflect an ‘oldschool gentlemanly’ feel. Please comment.

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Yes, my initial concept was to have a ‘1920’s Gentleman’s Club’ feel. I believe that we have online @ saloninternational.co.za

achieved this with our quality furniture and the premises, as together they bring this through wonderfully.

On your website you emphasise that you view a client’s visit to the salon as an experience and that a treatment is an exchange of energy that you and your team respect by always bringing the best of yourselves to the task. Please expand on this philosophy. It is most definitely an experience, which starts with the client finding us. I want to include every aspect in the

I believe you have a specific policy not to overcrowd clients – typically, how many clients at a time can you accommodate, while still sticking to this policy? This strategy plays a lot to the overall experience for the client. I want my clients to feel as though they are the only ones in the lounge. We can have a maximum of four clients at any one time, but our spacing allows us to do this without it feeling crowded.

Do you have any plans to open other branches of Hines & Harley, with a possibility of franchising? This is something that we have seriously considered, but there is nothing concrete as of yet. It is something to keep an eye on for the future.


Interview

How has your salon managed to weather the pandemic? We have done well considering. During the hard lockdown we did struggle, as did everyone. When we were allowed to open again, we got back to ‘normal’ trading quite quickly. I believe the fact that we have a large and loyal customer base helped us a lot.

Have you introduced any new treatments as a result of the pandemic? No, our treatment menu has stayed the same, we have just not had a price increase to help take the edge off after a tough 2020.

What are your most requested treatments? Most definitely our haircuts and beard shaping treatments are the most popular, although facials, pedicures and waxing are all increasing very well.

I believe you have just revamped your salon – what prompted this?

Our clients are from a wide range of fields, not business executive particularly. I think that our pricing has a lot to do with the wide range of clients we have. I was very fortunate to get a new business partner and we decided that the lounge needed to look like my original vision. We felt that the lounge needed a new look, almost as a reopening after the lockdown.

Please elaborate on the revamp – what did it involve? Did you add any new features? It was mainly cosmetic; we got new furniture in, including more comfortable barber chairs. We repainted and re-did all the light

fittings, this has brightened up the space very well. Furthermore, we did some light construction where we were able to create two separate treatment rooms for waxing and massage.

I see that during the week you are open until 7pm – that’s quite late but obviously something your clients appreciate? It is, but we do only open at 10am Monday to Thursday and at 9am on Friday and Saturday. I have found that our most popular time is between 4pm and 7pm. The clients really appreciate this.

Into what age demographic does your client base mostly fall? Are they from the business executive sector? I would say that our average age is between 30 and 40, however we have clients ranging from 3 to late 80’s. Our clients are from a wide range of fields, not business executive particularly. I think that our pricing has a lot to do with the wide range of clients we have.

constantly rising.

Are most of your clients regulars? Yes, I would say that on average per month, 80% of our bookings are from regulars.

When did you introduce the Hines & Harley range of products and how have they been received by your clients? I introduced the brand towards the end of 2016; our clients love the brand as it is a natural and aromatherapy based product. It gives great results and our clients love using it.

Are the products exclusive to the salon? For the moment yes, but I would love for more salons and barbers to stock the brand. We will soon be launching our online shop, which will make the product more available.

Do many fathers bring their sons in for treatments? Yes, we have a large number of dads bringing their sons in for treatments, and this number is

online @ saloninternational.co.za

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The role that data plays in your business

Photo by Carlos Muza on Unsplash

Business

Today most clinics are run using software, but are business owners making the most of what can only be described as the goldmine of information at their fingertips, namely data? Knowing your data is critical – it is not just a luxury for big corporations, it is essential for any business to run successfully, no matter the size. So says Shani Leon of booking app, My Appointment. She continues: “I once asked a prospective client how she measures how well her salon is doing, and her response was: ‘I check if there is money in the bank account at the end of the month’. While this answer was humorous, it was also very honest and true for many business owners. And yes, having money in your bank account at the end of the month is definitely a clear indication of how the month went – so it is a logical thing to check. However, this is a completely re-active approach. What it won’t do is help you make decisions and move the business in

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a pro-active way. It will also not offer you any insights into why there is (or isn’t) money in the account at the end of the month.” Leon points out that there are so many variables that can influence the revenue of a salon business, such as seasonality, staff complement and staff performance. “When comparing data, it is important to take all of these factors into account so that we compare like with like.”

Tracking trends Gary Halberstadt of Spa Guru notes that while most salons and spas utilise a software solution to help them manage their day-today operations, it’s essential to be able to access all this electronic information in a way that allows managers and staff to track trends and act on this data.

“From a revenue perspective it’s important to keep track of what services and products are the most popular in order to help focus your marketing, and also to ensure that you are keeping up with changing client needs. “Particularly during this global pandemic, utilising data from your system to see what services are still in demand and which are seeing a drop in utilisation is essential. This can ensure you focus on what’s profitable and what clients are still comfortable coming in for, whilst reducing costs on services that are currently seeing low demand,” explains Halberstadt.

‘Living information’ As Chris Parker of ESP Online points out, the term business intelligence means gathering data, converting


Business

it into meaningful information, interpreting this information and taking positive action in response to the interpretation. “Using business intelligence to support your decision making process stands opposed to making decisions based on gut feeling. Rather you give up what you think you know about your business and take a neutral standpoint in order to let the facts speak for themselves. Business intelligence gives an objective point of view rather than a subjective point of view. “The difference between business intelligence and management reporting is that business intelligence is meant to be ‘living information’ that should really be referred to on a daily basis and

There are so many

variables that can

influence the revenue of a salon business such as seasonality staff complement and staff performence

action should be taken almost daily to correct performance that is not in line with the target requirements. “Business intelligence, therefore, needs to be a working tool that not only gives you information about your business, but also assists you in doing staff appraisals on a regular basis so that they are part of the overall objectives for your spa, so that staff can benchmark themselves against the performance of the spa on the whole, as well as other therapists if necessary. Therapists need to feel empowered by the feedback that is given to them through the business intelligence cycle so that they not only get a reflection of their performance, but also the kind of input they need in order to grow their performance.” Parker believes that starting with

a top down view is critical and suggests that owners begin with a very simple entry point such as whether turnover is up or down compared to a comparable previous period. “This then begs the next question of why your turnover is up or down compared to a previous comparable period. The ability to answer this question will depend on your ability to make sense of the sales information that you generate on a daily basis. Every question that you are able to answer will usually lead to another question. The more questions you answer, the better. “Your aim is not only to increase turnover but ultimately to improve your profitability. Therefore, you need to be working towards not only operating at full capacity, but also to be maximising returns once you have reached capacity. For example, if all your therapists are fully booked all of the time, you may decide that your only choice is to expand by either opening another branch, or extending the size of your spa. However, by using data to pinpoint your situation, you realise that you need to be get a higher return per client visit, which should yield greater returns without the capital outlay (and imminent overheads) of expansion,” concludes Parker.

Key metrics

key metrics, which can be used to make business decisions. She continues: “You will easily be able to identify which service types sell the most, which product houses sell the most, and most importantly, which are the most profitable. This type of information can help you to push the right type of sales and maximise profits. “One of the key aspects of My Appointment is that it is a completely cloud based point of sale. This means that not only do you have access to the necessary analytical data, but you will always have the most up to date

Particularly

during this global

pandemic, utilising data from your

system to see what services are still

in demand and which are seeing a drop in utilisation is essential.

information at any time and from anywhere. This will give you the agility to make business decisions quickly in response to what the data is telling you.”

Leon points out that the My Appointment booking app can help salon owners by identifying

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Fashion

Dedicated to Andrea Diobelli. In this time of uncertainty, hardship and loss, we look to the symbol of the lotus flower to give us solace and hope. The Lotus – newest collection by Candice Mckay. It perfectly blends avantgarde ideas and ready-to-wear execution.     

The concept The lotus flower has a life cycle unlike any other plant. Throughout the night it is hidden underwater, in complete darkness, with roots latched deep in the mud. When the sun rises, so too does the lotus, miraculously re-blooming, sparklingly clean. This process associates the flower with rebirth and spiritual enlightenment. The lotus represents the act of rising above challenges and moving towards the light of wisdom. This daily process of life, death and reemergence symbolises regeneration and rebirth. It is a perfect analogy for the human condition. Even when it has it’s roots buried in the cold stagnant water, the lotus produces the most beautiful flower. The flower represents our ability to come from a place of suffering into the light. Like the lotus rises through the water to the light, we too can rise up from difficulty and reconnect to the light that surrounds us.  It is a symbol that shows that no matter where you start off in life or what you’re currently going through, that you have the ability to rise above, overcome all negativity and find bliss as you emerge from your struggles.  

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LOTUS


Fashion

The looks The looks are feminine, delicate, yet strong. Each of them represent the beauty of eternal regeneration, the beauty and the power of life.  Being simple and elegant, they all are extremely salon friendly and could be replicated by a hairdresser in the salon, or they can be a starting point for the intimate creative process between hairdresser and a client. This was done deliberately: I want to inspire hairdressers with the Lotus collection, but also to bring it to life, to the streets, to bring changes into the lives of real woman.

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Fashion

LOTUS

Hair - Candice McKay, Wyatt Hairdressing and Barbering Photography - Justin Dingwall Post Production - Hume Retouch  Make Up - Lynn Kendedy  and Nicci Allan Styling - Thomas Van Dyk Set Design - Klara van Wyngaarden.

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T HE HOT LIST Blonde all the way

Reversing the colour process

The reformulation of Schwarzkopff Professional’s BLONDME Care line sees the introduction of 3D Bond Colour Reset Creation Technology; creating a safely and gently product portfolio that strengthens removes artificial hair from within. The integrated hair colour 3D Bond Creation Technology without causing works across three integral steps damage to the of a BLONDMEExtension Blonding Service, Protection hair. When mixed German Innovation The Thinning Fight combining Bond Protection, Bond and applied to CHI Haircare Lava 2.0 Hairstyling Great Lengths is offering four new Aveda expands its Invati Advanced Creation and Bond Maintenance for the hair, Colour Iron is now part of the Lava Tool gift sets containing a shampoo, range with an Exfoliating Shampoo. Reset shrinks the artificial hair colour molecules portfolio. It features greater ultimate care. conditioner and mask to allow clients It is designed to thicken hair, renew back to their original been durability and versatility with 011 617 2467 to care for their extensions at home. the scalp and reduce hairsize. lossOnce by the hair has touch-activated temperature control. Promo Salon Price: £26.50 53%.and RRP from £26 rinsed buffered, the shrunken colour molecules have been removed from the hair without fear of re-oxidation.

011 305 1600

Damage Control The new no-rinse treatment, Defy Damage Sleepover from JOICO, nourishes hair, fortifies bonds and reduces the appearance of split ends while clients sleep. RRP £20

HJ’s lowdown Not just ‘another plex…’ The Arganplex 3-step system has been formulated on the latest with INOAR’s patented KEM3 Complex, a professional combination of keratin, amino acids, nutrition and products and moisture, to protect and revitalise the hair during, tools you can or after, chemical procedures. Whilst preventing breakage, Arganplex also hydrates the hair from add to your it. kitbag, use atwithin theand reconstructs Remember your Mask 012 346 1721 backwash or sell OSMO Intensive Deep Hair Repair Mask, which restores moisture and to your clients reconstructs damaged locks, has a new cherry and almond fragrance and gold packaging. RRP £5.65

All out action

Indola introduces ACT NOW! – an environmentally aware, high-performing styling and care range that’s passionate about providing sustainability in the salon. The range is free from silicones and sulfatesurfactants formulas, mineral oils, parabens, artificial colourants and artificial waxes. It features vegan formulas and packaging that is up to 97% recycled.

011 617 2467

In the Thick of It

Shifting Plates

Fresh Fragrance

Magnifier Thickening Spray from R+Co delivers long lasting, lightweight volume and a flexible hold, as well as shine and protection against heat-styling damage. RRP £58

The max is the latest addition to ghd’s range. It features plates that are 70% bigger than regular styler plates to provide faster and more effective styling. RRP £179

Authentic Beauty Concept’s first Eau de Toilette for skin and hair is designed to complement an individual’s character with notes of fresh linen, white flowers and powdery violets. online @ saloninternational.co.za

102 / hji.co.uk

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FASHION

POISE Striking elegance

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online @ saloninternational.co.za

98 / hji.co.uk


FASHION

“This collection is inspired by the breaking of hair boundaries whilst adding a touch of elegance. It shows that whatever your client’s hair type or texture, the opportunities are endless.” Barry Maddocks

Hair: Barry Maddocks Hair assistant: Hope Richardson Styling: Lewis Robert Cameron Photography: Philip Veitch 99 / hji.co.uk online @ saloninternational.co.za

33


Styleing

HOMME-AGE Truly, terrific inspiration from British hairdressing

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online @ saloninternational.co.za


Styleing

Hair: Tim Scott-Wright and James Nicklin @ The Hair Surgery Make-up: Stacey Ellen Simpson Styling: TSW art team Photography: James Nicklin

“This collection was a fun shoot used to pay respect and homage to the 2020 British nominees at HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional.” Tim Scott-Wright and James Nicklin online @ saloninternational.co.za

35


Hair Awards winners announced

Sponsored by

The winners of the inaugural Salon International Hair Awards Sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional were announced during a virtual online ceremony held on the evening of 22 February 2021. Over 200 entries were received for the Creative Photographic categories, which were judged by Gary Rom of Gary Rom Hairdressing, Terence Jansen van Vuuren of Terenzo Suites, and Henkel Beauty Care’s Chaswyn Morris and Beverley Salvadori. Candice Mckay of Wyatt Hairdressing and Barbering scooped the Overall Hairdresser of the Year Award, also winning the Cut & Colour category and placing in two other categories.

CREATIVE PHOTOGRAPHIC AWARDS

Afro Hairdresser of the Year 1st Thomas Tsheola House Of Thomas 2nd Candice Mckay Wyatt Hairdressing and Barbering 3rd Anel Cloete C - Connoisseurs Studio

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online @ saloninternational.co.za

1st

2nd

3rd


Fantasy Hairdresser of the Year

2nd

3rd

1st Nicole Wiese, Tracy Barclay and Taylor Sandow Rock Paper Scissors Hair Shop 2nd Sasha-lee De Vries Pasquale hairstylist 3rd - Candice Mckay Wyatt Hairdressing and Barbering

Cut & Colour Hairdresser of the Year

1st 1st

2nd

3rd

1st Candice Mckay - Wyatt Hairdressing and Barbering 2nd Sasha-lee De Vries Pasquale hairstylist 3rd Dylan Shrives - Blu Gel hair studio

Up & Coming Hairdresser of the Year

1st

1st Raeesa Dawood Raeesa international 2nd Melanie Backlund Shag High Voltage Hair 3rd Marni Malan Hair @ Bennies

3rd 2nd online @ saloninternational.co.za

37


Apprentice of the Year

1st

1st Varushkh Govindasamy Blu Gel Hair Studio 2nd Lee Vanderbyl Blu Gel Hair Studio 3rd Nomfundo Sokhela – Blu Gel Hair Studio

BUSINESS AWARDS

Manager of the year 1st Eric Way Lovemore Groomed Men & Groomed Ladies 2nd Darryl November Nehzrah Hair Salon 3rd Inge Ramos Style Studio Platinum

Salon Design

1st Nudo Hair Lab Pretoria 2nd Medellin Gentlemen Groomers 3rd Stijl Men

Marketing Campaign 1st Style Bar 2nd Hair by Anri 3rd Mirrors Hair Lab

Overall Hairdresser of the Year Candice Mckay Wyatt Hairdressing and Barbering 38

online @ saloninternational.co.za

3rd 2nd INDUSTRY SUPPLIER AWARDS

Best Hair Equipment

Sharplines Salon Interiors

Best Haircare Brand Mycro Keratin

Best Product Training WAHL

Best Overall Brand Presence Wella Professionals

Best Sales Rep Thys Ferreira – Twincare Salon International congratulates all the winners and would like to thank the headline sponsor of the awards Schwarzkopf Professional. Thanks also to the EOHCB (Employers Organisation for Hairdressing Cosmetology and Beauty) for sponsoring the Industry Supplier Awards.


Business Trends

Life Through a Lens

t t e n r u B m Sa

Buffalo spirit

“The HARE & BONE Man from our Buffalo Spirit collection really encapsulates my style of effortless wearable hair and challenges the expected image of

Having worked on multiple international global campaigns, award winning owner and creative director at HARE & BONE shares seven of his favourite creations Anti-gravity

“This is one of my favourite images as at first glance it’s a clean simple ponytail. When you take a closer look you can see it’s defying gravity. It is held in place with only product, no pins, grips or trickery. It is dubbed the Anti-Gravity Ponytail from my HARE & PONY collection.”

Gender fluidity

Skills and tricks

“Inspired by disco, big hair and the power of femininity, this image embodies my passion for big hair and uses lots of skills and tricks I picked up working

The ponytail

“This image is from a collection called HARE & PONY where I explored the idea of creating a collection from one discipline – the ponytail. This super clean triple pony was based on sports luxe.”

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online @ saloninternational.co.za

“This image is from HARE & BONE’s launch campaign shot by Stuart Western. It also formed part of my 2014 finalist collection in the London Hairdresser of the year category at HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional. This collection gave me the first opportunity to share my vision for HARE & BONE with the industry. I explored individuality and gender fluidity.”

The Shag

“The Shag is my most successful image to date and part of the 2016 collection HARE & BONE, which was a finalist for the Artistic Team of the Year category at HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional. This is one of my favourites as it’s so simple but really speaks to people.”

Big texture

“This image is all about big texture and movement. It was shot by Jenny Hands who I love to collaborate with. This image was created with an elastic twist set and lots of wind and I feel it captures a moment in time.”

Busi-

INSPIRATION


We hope that you have enjoyed this first edition of Salon International Magazine

Business Trends

41

We would welcome your

feedback. info@saloninternational.co.za

Plus, we would love to recieve contributions for articles to include in future issues.

If you have a collection of work that you would

like us to include, please do send that through for us to use.

Let’s show off the huge pool of talent that is

here in South Africa and show the world how inspirational we can be. info@saloninternational.co.za online @ probeauty.co.za

Profile for Professional Beauty SA

Salon International May 2021  

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