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July 2021 | probeauty.co.za

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IN THIS ISSUE Regulars 7


Industry news

Crowning glory

Local and international news

New products




POPI Act compliance in the industry



Fixing what has been broken and coming out stronger than ever

What you need to know

A ‘sound’ solution Sound healing

Utilising the quieter months to improve your business


The new collective spin on self-care




Seize the (cold) day!

Global trend towards communitybased approach

Let your client’s eyes do the talking

How to boost winter revenue

Smokey eye step by step

Interview 20

Talking to…Jean-Guy De Gabriac

World Wellness Weekend founder speaks out




Time to get active

Waxing tips to keep clients loyal

Ingredients that change the skin

How to get clients to commit


In the neck of time

Product focus on neck creams

Aesthetic Medicine 36

Zooming in on the neck

Dr Nerina Wilkinson’s expert view online @ probeauty.co.za

Nails 39

NailFile Issue 43



Cover source: Inoar South Africa

June was a particularly stressful time in this harrowing era that we are living through. COVID-19 infections spiked, with the government officially announcing that the country was in the third wave of the pandemic. As this issue of the magazine was about to published, South Africa had been placed in Adjusted Alert Level 4 Lockdown for two weeks and we were all anxiously waiting to see if this would bring down the infection rate, or whether the country would be moved to Level 5 and all beauty salons and spas would be forced to close. Memories of last year’s agonising 87 days of full lockdown came to mind. At least, as the second part of our lead news story reveals, salons and spas were reporting reasonable business for the months leading up to June. Also in June, beauty businesses the country over, were scrambling to comply with the POPI (Protection of Personal Information) Act, which became effective on 1 July 2021. We all collect data about our clients, so it’s vital to be aware of the new regulations in this regard. To this end, we have included a useful and informative article which will help owners get to grips with POPI. If ever there was a time when we all needed healing, it’s now. Read our fascinating article on healing through sound to get some insight on this wellness practice. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

Publisher Mark Moloney mark@probeauty.co.za Managing Director Yolanda Knott 011 781 5970 yolanda@probeauty.co.za Philip Woods Commercial Director 084 759 2024 phil@probeauty.co.za Editor Joanna Sterkowicz 083 411 8512 joanna@probeauty.co.za Marketing Manager Stacey Platt stacey@tetradeevents.com Sales Executive Ruth Baldwin 072 897 6752 ruth@probeauty.co.za Operations Executive Obey Dube obey@probeauty.co.za Design Saveer Sugreem

Published by T.E. Trade Events (Pty) Ltd 1st Floor, Rapid Blue Building 263 Oak Avenue, Ferndale, Randburg PO Box 650291, Benmore, 2010 Tel: 011 781 5970





The publisher has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the accuracy of the information in this journal and cannot accept responsibility for errors in omissions from any information given in previous editions of this journal or for any consequences arising thereof. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form by any means, whether electronic, mechanical and/or optical without the express prior written permission of the publisher. Additional pics: www.shutterstock.com, www.pexels.com, www.pixabay.com and www.unsplash.com

g n i m r a h C ! t u n t s e h C Want to find out more? info@refectocil.co.za | www.refectocil.co.za


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Industry rocked by 3rd wave and SA’s move back to Level 4 Just a few days before this issue of Professional Beauty was published, President Cyril Rhamaphosa announced that South Africa would move back to Adjusted Alert Level 4 Lockdown for two weeks, due to the rampant increase in COVID-19 infections. At the time of the president’s address on 27 June 2021, salons and spas were not mentioned in the restrictions and thus allowed to stay open, as long as they strictly adhered to the gazetted Personal Care Sector-Specific Protocols. While a few beauty establishments decided to close for two weeks, others that stayed open were experiencing a significant percentage of cancellations. This was coupled with anxiety around whether the country would return to Level 5 Lockdown, with salons and spas forced to temporarily shut their doors. Last year, the beauty industry was in lockdown for 87 days, causing devastating closures and job losses.


On 11 June, the minister of Employment and Labour, Thulas Nxesi published a new directive on Covid-19 and the workplace, much of which focused on vaccination policies. Says the EOHCB (Employers Organisation for Hairdressing Cosmetology Beauty): “If an employer does decide to make vaccinations mandatory, it is also required to identify employees who, by virtue of the risk of transmission through work, age, or co-morbidities, must be vaccinated. “Employers will also be required to develop a plan outlining the protective measures in place for the phased return of workers, and the measures it plans to implement to ensure that workers are vaccinated. “Should the employer decide to make vaccinations mandatory, this should also be explicitly included in the plan, as and when Covid-19 vaccines become available for those employees.” The directive states that employees still have a right to refuse the vaccine on constitutional or medical grounds,

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and should be allowed to consult with a health and safety representative or a worker representative or trade union official.

Good business prior to COVID surge

Just prior to the 3rd wave in mid-June, Professional Beauty contacted a number of salons and spas to report on business. CEO of the Sorbet Group of salons, Linda Sinclair, noted that trade from January 2021 had picked up and foot traffic in store had increased for beauty and grooming services. “Male grooming has performed ahead of female beauty, while sales for our retail and self-care at home personal regimes continue to increase,” stated Sinclair. Esna Colyn, CEO of Imbalie Beauty Limited (encompassing the Placecol, Perfect 10 and Dream Nails salons), revealed that there had been an increase in the number of customers visiting their beauty salons in the larger malls. “However, business has still been very hard for small business owners and it’s a slow recovery.” Group operations manager for Amani Spas, Julie van Rooyen, reported that their spas in Pilanesberg (North West Province) had been the best performers to date, with an increase in business. “The spas in Sabi Sabi (Mpumalanga/ Kruger Park) have been struggling, largely due to very strict COVID regulations. Our Cape Town spa has also been having a hard time getting back on its feet but is seeing some progress.” Seasons Spa in Harbeespoort had stayed consistently busy since February this year. Spa manager, Leandra Olivier, commented: “Our spa does run a little differently now as we have almost completely moved away from only having our spa menu, to running most of our business through spa packages.” After being closed since March last year, The Saxon Spa reopened on 1 May 2021 to full bookings. Said spa manager, Tanya Lopes: “Not only do we have our regular, pre-pandemic guests coming back to us, but we’ve had new guests through the doors as well.”


PROMOTIONAL FEATURE women – they could drop their kids off at school and then pop in for treatments, sit and work in a beautiful, secure location, have a meeting whilst having great coffee or join a workshop hosted in our conference room. “So we bought the property and then COVID struck. We were in a bit of quandary as to whether to go ahead, but we forged on, holding fast in our conviction that it was the right time and place to bring our dream to reality. It was very tough and risky, particularly with no income during lockdown, but we proceeded and even expanded our original concept to include a coffee shop, a beauty salon and an aesthetics practice. We also retail Inoar’s awardwinning hair care products, luxury homeware and fashion items.”

Style and design

Inoar SA opens flagship salon & lifestyle centre in Pretoria The South African distributor of premium Brazilian professional hair brand, Inoar, recently took the bold step of opening a one-stopshop for hair, beauty and aesthetics in Pretoria, despite the challenges brought on by the pandemic.

Kruger notes that COVID influenced the renovations on the property – the ceiling in the salon was raised to make the space more airy, with each area laid out to accommodate social distancing: “In terms of design for the entire space, we took inspiration from Inoar’s Brazilian roots.” Architect André Eksteen of EarthWorld handled the renovations. He explains that the colour scheme is reminiscent of a lush botanical scene, with hues of floral pink and green. “The materials of the bespoke furniture throughout, consist of velvet upholstery, walnut timber and green marble, with fine detailing in brass. We blurred the boundary between inside and outside, with doors and windows carefully positioned to frame the trees and greenery surrounding the salon,” states Eksteen. Everything was built around the existing large trees on the property – not a single tree was cut down. The entire centre is solar powered and entirely off the grid.

Positive move

Kruger notes that the Inoar Lifestyle Centre has been very well received in the market. “Clients believe we have brought a new charm to an otherwise old area of Pretoria. I think the fact that we went ahead and created a beautiful, inviting space like this, during the pandemic, is a bold, optimistic statement for the industry, and for the city and the local economy as a whole. When we decided to add beauty and aesthetics to the initial idea of a hair salon only, it gave empowerment to female service providers and provided employment to people who could no longer afford mall rentals,” she concludes. www.inoar.co.za

Just two days after the sale of the property at 345 Dey Street in Brooklyn was finalised, South Africa went into lockdown. Says Inoar SA owner, Hendrien Kruger: “Early last year, after 11 years of distributing Inoar, we were ready to invest in our own distribution hub and a flagship salon where we could showcase the entire Inoar range of Vegan, Cruelty-free professional hair care for both in-salon and home use, for all hair types, and all hair textures – a brand which truly caters for all South African women. “The Brooklyn property is across the road from my children’s school and situated on a corner, so highly visible. To me, it seemed like the perfect place to create a haven of pampering, but also upliftment and empowerment for


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INDUSTRY NEWS Environ founder wins Lifetime Achievement Award Founder and scientific director of Environ Skin Care, Dr Des Fernandes, has been awarded The Skin Cancer Foundation of South Africa’s Lifetime Achievement Award for his significant contributions to the skincare industry. This award is the first of its kind and Dr Fernandes is being celebrated for his pioneering developments, techniques and technologies associated with skin rejuvenation and photo-protection, as well as for his contributions to the field of topical antioxidants and vitamins within the industry. Dr Fernandes is a globally acclaimed and respected plastic surgeon and scientist who has been developing skincare products for over 30 years. Says Dr Marc Roscher, CEO of the Skin Cancer Foundation of South Africa: “Dr Des Fernandes has truly adjusted our understanding and influenced the way we work as

Dr Des Fernandes physicians, not just as South Africans but worldwide. Testament to this is the fact that he received the Dermatological Aesthetic Surgery International League (DASIL) International Lifetime Achievement Award in Doha in 2019. As South Africans, we are very honoured to give this award to him in recognition of his monumental contribution in

the fields of skin rejuvenation, photoprotection and the development of the field of needling.” It was the agonising loss of two young melanoma patients in the 1980s that motivated Dr Fernandes’ research into the skin and skin cancer. The defining point in his career was when he discovered the revolutionary effects of vitamin topical applications on the skin, especially that of vitamin A. Says Dr Fernandes, “I am truly humbled to receive this award. My work is and has always been driven by my passion for finding scientific solutions to common skin issues and sharing that knowledge as widely as possible. The skin is the largest organ in the human body and so it’s my belief that we should all be united in understanding how it works and should be cared for.”

Four Seasons Spa Westcliff (image sourced from www.fourseasonsspa.co.za)

Four Seasons spa takes on SA brand The spa at the Four Seasons Westcliff Hotel in Johannesburg has taken on the South African brand, TheraNaka, for use in its body treatments, having previously used a French range. A sustainable and eco-friendly brand, TheraNaka is formulated with indigenous African ingredients. According to spa manager, Diniy Hamza, TheraNaka will soon be introduced into Four Seasons spas in the Africa & Indian Ocean Islands region, namely Seychelles, Mauritius and Serengeti. This is in line with the Group’s strategy of

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tapping into indigenous cultures in terms of spa treatments and products. Annelise Omerod, business development manager at TheraNaka, explains that she had been in contact with Joelle Jennepy, the senior Four Seasons spa director for the region, for some time in terms of building brand awareness. “ThereNaka provides the perfect balance between the scents and herbs of Africa and the traditional rituals of its ancient inhabitants,” says Omerod.



British brand returns to South Africa The 100-year old Innoxa skincare brand, which was available at selected retailers some years ago, has returned to South Africa in the professional channel, courtesy of the Imbalie Beauty Group. Imablie has re-launched an ecofriendly and newly formulated Innoxa product range in all of its Dream Nails, Placecol and Perfect 10 salons nationwide, as well as online. The newly launched range epitomises the original Innoxa tag line of ‘First do no harm’, which has always been at the core of this British brand. Now vegan friendly, the range contains many natural and sustainably sourced ingredients within the new formulations, and the tubes within the range are predominantly made up of sustainably sourced sugar cane. All products are either biodegradable or recyclable, are paraben and allergen free and therefore kind enough for sensitive skins. “Our salon owners are very excited to bring this new range into their salons, at a time where the trading environment is still tough as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic,” says Esna Colyn, CEO of Imbalie Beauty. “Furthermore, our salons have launched five new Innoxa Vegan facials.”

Liz McKeon

McKeon launches international school Salon business expert, author and regular Professional Beauty contributor, Liz McKeon, has launched the International Salon Business School with a vast catalogue of programmes for salon business owners, managers and teams. Formats include live training, virtual assisted courses, and selfpaced certified virtual courses and training products. Courses include: Staff Training; Manager Training; Salon Business Academy; Revive Your Business; Business Planning For Success; and Business Growth Club.

Terence Fillies, Mark Mausenbaum, Chaand Barendse, Amanda Harrod, Sandy Fuhr and Mark Woods

Saloncare and BTI enter into co-branding venture Beauty Therapy Institute (BTI) has entered into a co-branding partnership with Saloncare, where all 14 of BTI’s colleges, as well as its schools in Africa, will use Saloncare products with BTI branding. Says BTI director, Sandy Fuhr: “We have used Saloncare successfully at some of the schools in the past. I particularly wanted a local brand that I could put my trust


in and I knew the founder of Saloncare, John Edwards. The company’s owner, Amanda Harrod, was a former student of mine.” Saloncare products used in the BTI schools will now be branded ‘Beauty Therapy Institute Powered by Saloncare’. The products will be available for retail to students’ clients.

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Photo by ThisIsEngineering from Pexels

POPI Act compliance in the industry Consultant Samantha Lockhart unpacks The Protection of Personal Information Act and how it affects salons and spas

would like to start with what The Protection of Personal Information Act (POPI Act or POPIA) is before we delve into how it pertains to our industry. It is more than just how we process clients’ names and telephone numbers when they visit a spa or salon. The official definition of the act is: ‘To promote the protection of personal information processed by public and private bodies; to introduce certain conditions so as to establish minimum requirements for the processing of personal information’. Who does this apply to? Very simply,


anybody who owns a business in South Africa and is recording personal information about a client. What it means is that you have a responsibility to not only protect the client’s information on your salon system or website, as well as where you are storing the information (i.e. security on your computer, consultation cards etc.). It also requires you to get consent from the client when using their information for any data processing or marketing purposes and allow them to opt out.


Are you using a salon software system to capture your client consultation cards? Are you sending them booking reminders or marketing SMSes using your salon system? If so, your system needs to comply with POPI by having data privacy protection in place. Most systems that are PC based have this in place already. When using a cloud based software, you need to check that they have a detailed privacy policy in place. This will be

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displayed at the bottom of their website. It is important to remember that when you have a website or any client newsletter sign up forms, that the forms have reCAPTCHA as well, as your website should have SSL encryption, assuring your customers that their data and transactions are secure.

Holding onto data

Having salon software that processes the data securely is a particularly important factor to have in your business. However, in my experience, I have found that many people hold onto years of client data and still send bulk marketing messages to these clients who haven’t visited your business in the last three to 10 years. There are numerous reasons as to why a client hasn’t returned to your salon or spa, but the onus is still on you as the business owner, to ensure that all your clients on your system want to continue to be marketed to.

Anybody who OWNS A BUSINESS in SOUTH AFRICA and is recording PERSONAL INFORMATION about a client has a RESPONSIBILITY TO not only PROTECT THE CLIENT’S INFORMATION on your salon system or website, as well as where you are storing THE INFORMATION. ‘Opt into marketing communication’

With the POPI Act coming into play, if you haven’t done so already, I would recommend sending out an ‘Opt into marketing communication’ SMS and dedicate a staff member to manage and process the replies. If someone opts out, you are obligated by law to remove them from your database.


The POPI Act has rules to adhere to for the processing of information. It refers to these rules as ‘Conditions’, and they cover what data you collect, what you can do with the data, and how you protect both the data and the data subject. POPI has eight conditions for lawful processing. 1. Accountability 2. Processing limitation 3. Purpose specification 4. Further processing limitation

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5. Information quality 6. Openness 7. Security safeguards 8. Data subject participation


This means that the responsible party (you) must ensure compliance both when deciding to process data and during the processing of the data. In other words, the person processing the data is accountable for what they are processing.

Processing limitations

When processing the client’s data, the person processing the information must • Process data in a way that doesn’t risk the data subject’s privacy • Process only relevant data with a given purpose • Obtain consent from the data subject before processing (and keep proof of consent) • Protect the legitimate interest of the data subject • Allow data subjects to object to processing and/ or withdraw consent at any time • Stop processing data after an objection or withdrawal of consent This condition also provides a unique stipulation: ‘The personal information must be collected DIRECTLY from the data subject’ (i.e. client). This means the consultation card must be signed, or the information received via ‘Opt in’ on your website.

Purpose specification

This condition for processing details your reasons for collecting data. In other words, why are you collecting this data? Moreover, you must ensure the client is aware of why you need the information. As I mentioned previously, you cannot hold onto client information forever. Once you no longer need it for the processing purpose, you no longer have a right to keep it unless required by law. This means that you should delete, or de-active their profile information, after a certain period. I would suggest at least a year to two years to hold onto information for non-regular clients. Many things can change for the client during this time, and therefore they would need to fill out a new consultation card and consent to data processing for marketing or other purposes.

Further processing limitation

There are further processing limitations, however the main point that should be noted here says that you must only process data in ways compatible with the purpose you stated.

Information quality

This condition means that you must take steps to ensure the data you collect and subsequently process is accurate and complete.




Openness refers to your responsibility under the Promotion of Access to Information Act. Your clients should know the following 1. Where you collect information 2. Where you do not collect information 3. The source of your information 4. Your company’s name and address 5. Why you collect the data (your purpose) e.g. for eliminating medical conditions 6. Whether the collection is voluntary or mandatory 7. What happens if the data subject (client) doesn’t provide their data 8. Laws that allow data collection 9. If you intend to send the data to a third party Also, this condition requires you to have a Privacy Policy in place. Whether this is on your website or in a consent to data processing and marketing form, it needs to be accessible to the client.

request corrections to their record when the data is out of date, incomplete, inaccurate, excessive, or obtained unlawfully. Upon receiving the request, your business must complete the request within a reasonable timeframe.

YOU CANNOT HOLD onto client INFORMATION FOREVER. Once you NO LONGER NEED IT for the PROCESSING PURPOSE, you no longer have a right to keep it unless REQUIRED BY LAW How to comply with the POPI Act

In short, if you process data in South Africa, then you have an obligation to comply with the POPI Act. Follow the above detailed steps I have outlined and nominate a Dedication Information Officer, who oversees the processing and storing of the information. Complying with POPI usually means you need someone who fully understands the law and your data practices. Take these steps and measures 1. Perform a POPI Gap Analysis 2. Complete Risk Assessments 3. Draft New Policies and Update Existing Documents (examples below) • Privacy Policies • Information Security Procedures • Incident Response • Information Manuals • Reporting Procedures 4. Create a Compliance Management System Also, remember that failing to comply with the POPI Act could result in fines or punishment by law.

Are you Ready for POPI? Photo by CQF-Avocat from Pexels

Security safeguards

This condition details the security measures POPI requires for personal information. As the business owner, the onus is on you to ensure everything is done to prevent unlawful access to, as well as the loss or damage of, any personal information. Data encryption, website protection such as Thawte, or computer security protection in the form of an internet security software such as ESET, is essential.

Data subject participation

This condition refers to the rights of the data subject. Under the law, they should have access to their personal information should they require it. In other words, store those consultation cards in a secure location. The data subject also has the right to


The POPI Act officially came into effect late 2020 and although all businesses were to be compliant by 1 July 2021, there is a one-year grace period to update your systems. So the time to prepare for POPI is now. If you are unsure of whether you are ready for POPI, or are unsure of how to perform the required steps above to comply, contact me for a no obligation quote to assist you in becoming compliant.

Samantha Lockhart is the owner of Myspa Consultants, and has been in the industry for over 15 years. She is extremely passionate about training and education, as well as data processing, data compliance and data analysis. She loves to identify gaps in a business that can be improved on, and assist business owners with improving their customer service levels and turnover. Email samantha@myspaconsultants.com

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that most of us are still trying to wade through. Given the isolation that we all had to endure in many different formats, as well as the emotions of separation, longing and loneliness are evident not only in individuals but across communities as well. This has been described as a trauma. Trauma manifests in the body and collective healing allows individuals to combat trauma and distress to ensure it does not manifest into physical conditions in the body – something doctors have already noted is occurring in an increasingly large number of individuals.

Photo by Leah Kelley from Pexels

The new collective spin on self-care Lauren Gibson looks at an emerging global trend where people support each other so that individuals can heal

elf-care started as a trend that morphed into a way of being, or a lifeboat for a lot of people. Hashtags on social media, such as #selfcare or #selfcaresunday or #selfcareeveryday, began to creep into everyone’s news feeds. Society started accepting that looking after oneself is critical to maintaining a work/ life balance and productivity, along with a whole host of other things. Global marketing communications company, Wunderman Thompson, recently shared an article on the new collective self-care, whereby self-care is moving towards group gatherings to heal a collective trauma, versus working on one individual’s wellbeing. So the idea is that more togetherness means more healing. Much of this has stemmed from the COVID-19 pandemic


Community approach

It has been incredible to see a worldwide community approach towards engaging with others around a collective self-care, as we emerge out of lockdown. This includes creating safe spaces in local community areas to promote wellbeing and healing. Examples of activities could be group meditation and breathing, or sound bathing, or even sitting in a dedicated open space that encourages nature therapy, fresh air to breathe and allows you to absorb collective energy from others.

Nature therapy

There has been a lot of hype recently about nature therapy and being outdoors, all for good reason. If communities can combine the effects of nature therapy with collective self-care, we may just have a recipe for healing and care that has a ripple effect within individuals, families, communities and the world. There is also the collaboration of artists to show colour and art in the same space to ensure the left and right side of the brain is activated, which generates stimulation and results in less depression. While the pandemic has been devastating in its own right, it has also forced us to open to our eyes to the things that are around us –air, nature and the communities in which we live and work.

Lauren Gibson has over 15 years’ experience in the professional skincare industry and considers herself an industry change maker and energetic influencer of people, teams and business. Having been in strategy and management for the last six years with Dermalogica, she is passionate about coaching, self-care and forward thinking in businesses. Gibson has completed her PG Diploma in Management Practice with UCT GSB and looks forward to a new career internationally. Email: laurenleigh.gibson@gmail.com online @ probeauty.co.za


Fixing what has been broken and coming out stronger than ever In an effort to provide business support to salon owners, the EOHCB (Employer’s Organisation for Hairdressing, Cosmetology and Beauty) has penned the following article on how to navigate the quieter months to full advantage

Photo by Andrea Piacquadio from Pexels

he COVID-19 pandemic has had an impact on us mentally, financially, emotionally and physically. People have lost their loved ones, their incomes, their businesses, their possessions, their hobbies and in essence, the freedom to live their lives the way they used to. Now that we are deep into winter, this is quite a challenging time in our industry as business traditionally gets quieter during the cold season. However, as an employer, this could be an opportunity to focus on investing in your business and staff. Figure out what can be improved to make sure that when the warmer season approaches, and it starts getting busier in the salon again, your business and your staff are ready to utilise (and capitalise on) the individual and collective discoveries, goals and visions.

Suggested activities

Spend the quieter season by doing the following: • Getting to know more about the industry; understanding the culture, the trends, and the target market of where your establishment is geographically based. • Do some workplace renovations if needed. • Evaluate the services and products that you offer in your business in terms of what can be improved and what can be reduced. • Engage with your staff. Take a coffee break with each individual to get to know them and gain a better understanding of their mindset and personality. • Share your vision and goals with your staff. Set collective visions and goals. This may help them to understand and align with your vision, to ensure that you share the same mindset to reach the ultimate goal of growing the business and their earning potential. One of the best investments any employer can do for his/ her business is to invest in the emotional intelligence of staff and also to continuously define the knowledge and skills of employees.


Boosting staff morale

You may ask yourself why there are certain employees that ‘outshine’ others, who have more clients, or who perform better in the workplace. Granted, there are most certainly those employees who work harder and smarter than others and who excel in certain skills and talents, based on their strengths. However, one of the things that you may have to consider as an employer is whether others have been given equal opportunity to go for training to improve on their skills or ‘showcase’ what they can do. This is an excellent way of boosting staff morale and promoting uniformity in the workplace. You may want to have refresher training on the policies and procedures of your business to remind employees of what is acceptable and unacceptable in the workplace. It’s possible that employees will adhere better to the disciplinary codes and rules that have been implemented within the workplace. When a person knows better, they do better. The ultimate goal is to have a good working environment, where there is increased productivity and performance from your employees. In addition, you deserve a business where supervision is reduced and trust is the cornerstone of your relationship, so that when you are not available physically, that your employees adhere to the policies and procedures, goals, and visions of the business.


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Talking to…

Jean-Guy de Gabriac World Wellness Weekend (WWW) takes place this year across the globe on 18 and 19 September. Joanna Sterkowicz speaks to the movement’s founder, JeanGuy de Gabriac, about what the 2021 event has in store and about the significance, especially in this pandemic age, of wellness and all it encompasses

Firstly, please provide the WWW definition of wellness.

Wellness is a process, a personal commitment to cultivate patiently, constantly and resolutely, the best version of yourself. It is not only about prolonging your life expectancy, but also enhancing your health expectancy. I believe that wellness stars with WE and not ME and that it grows with all of US. It is something we should all contribute to on a physical, mental, emotional and social level, not just #WellnessForAll in alignment with the third SDG (Sustainable Development Goal) of the United Nations, but also #WellnessByAll so that we can all take care of ourselves, friends and loved ones through social prescribing.

Would you say there is a difference between the terms wellness and well-being?

As a non-native English speaker, I do not see a difference and regard them as close synonyms. I prefer to focus how we can all contribute to grow the state of being well, with the participation of millions of people around the globe, powered by the outstanding contribution and perseverance of our WWW Ambassadors.


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INTERVIEW What are WWW’s 5 Pillars of Wellness?

1. Restorative SLEEP improving your attention, participation, memory and creativity. 2. Fresh, seasonal and colourful NUTRITION to improve your gut health, strengthen your immune system, and help you reach and keep your ideal weight. 3. MOVEMENT to remain active, mobile, flexible, fit, independent and socially-engaged with enthusiastic projects as long as possible, with joyful and contagious vitality. 4. MINDFULNESS to preserve or restore your mental health, enhance serenity, resiliency, grit, empathy and compassion. 5. SENSE of PURPOSE, which adds an elevated dimension to one’s life with meaning, and fosters solidarity, something that the world really needs more of. These 5 Pillars are meant to be accessible to all, not only to encourage self-care, but also to benefit those around each of us through contagious enthusiasm and regular social interactions.


Economist Thierry Malleret says: “Wellness is the net winner in this COVID environment”. More than ever, we all need to have a responsible long-term approach to our vitality, serenity and immunity through better lifestyles and with the support of friends, colleagues, and family. We should all choose a ‘Wellness Buddy’ and strive to keep each other in check.

Four Seasons at Ahanita Mauritius (Jean-Guy de Gabriac centre front row)

Since the pandemic, do you think that wellness is now being aligned together with the health category?

Governments and media are totally focused on COVID-19, but actually we have more than one pandemic to address. The 5 pandemics hat have been going on for decades are lack of quality of sleep, obesity, inactivity, anxiety and NCDs (Non Communicable Diseases). Here are some concerning statistics • 62% of adults worldwide feel that they don’t sleep well. • 30% of the population is affected with insomnia and 1 billion people worldwide suffer from obstructive sleep apnea, which may speed up the onset of cognitive impairment, memory loss and even Alzheimer’s disease. • 39% adults aged 18+ were overweight in 2016 (1.9 billion) and 13% were obese (650 million). • Sitting is more dangerous than smoking and kills more people than HIV. 25% of adults and over 80% of adolescents are not active enough. Between 2013 and 2018, Europeans who did not practice any physical activity/ sport increased from 42% to 46%. • 75% of doctor visits in the USA are related to stress. 13 million workdays in Europe are lost yearly due to stress complaints. • Chronic diseases (e.g. heart, stroke, cancer, diabetes, respiratory) prematurely kill 15 million people each year. The crazy thing is that these pandemics are preventable with better lifestyle choices.

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Spa The Pearl Marrakech Morocco.

What is the main purpose of the WWW event?

In alignment with the United Nations’ third Sustainable Development Goal – ‘Good Health and Well-being for All’ – and the support of 40+ officials in governments, city halls, and tourism boards, WWW is encouraging wellness professionals and enthusiasts to take a stand and show that their health matters, as does their vitality and serenity. The fear of getting sick may trigger a visit to the doctor, may entice the start of a diet, but will not sustain prolonged lifestyle changes. When thousands of professionals open their doors on the WWW, just before the September Equinox (September 18-19), it creates a planetary PR event that catches the attention of journalists, influencers and bloggers, who then share with their audience original wellness activities. For the past four years, we have shared innovative best practices that inspire and empower professionals to offer a minimum of one hour of one member of the team to lead a workshop, a class or talk that is safe, free, fun and as transformative as possible. We want participants to learn something new, experience something ‘wow!’, so that they share it with their



best friends to incite them to try it too. In addition, we also encourage participating venues to create attractive offers and packages for people to stay longer on their properties during the WWW itself and bounce-back offers to incite people to come back in October, November and December.

WE WANT PARTICIPANTS to learn something new, experience SOMETHING ‘WOW!’, so that they SHARE IT WITH THEIR BEST FRIENDS to incite them to try it too. In addition, WE ALSO ENCOURAGE participating venues to CREATE ATTRACTIVE OFFERS and packages for people to STAY LONGER on their properties DURING THE WWW itself and bounce-back offers to INCITE PEOPLE TO COME BACK. How will the WWW event play out this year?

Like last year, wherever possible, professionals will organise safe, in person group activities outdoors to reconnect with nature, or indoors with spacious rooms where people can respectfully be 6-feet apart. In countries or cities where the pandemic may still be raging, classes, workshop and talks will be accessible online, like TAJ Hotels and their JIVA Spas offering free inspiring and practical videos about ‘the science of life’ (ayurveda), through breathing techniques (pranayama) and stretches (yoga asanas). The 5th edition of the World Wellness Weekend will be hybrid, so that we can all be highly connected socially through wellness, yet safely and respectfully physically distant. We shall go further this year, with beauty schools in France and massage schools in Canada offering beauty treatments to doctors and nurses over the WWW. We shall honour the first line of responders, healthcare professionals, through the generosity and expertise of the second wave of responders, aestheticians and massage therapists who do so much more than just ‘touch skin’. Through the noble art of massage, they ‘touch lives’, helping people reconnect with themselves and their life’s purpose.

Apart from the TAJ Group, what other properties will be participating this year?

The Minor Group will organise breath-taking activities in its amazing Anantara and Vivanda resorts in the Maldives and across Asia. Six Senses will mobilise most of their teams in hotels and resorts across the world to help people reconnect with themselves, and with nature. Thailand’s largest wellness group, Fusion Resorts, will champion vitality and serenity across the country. Iconic properties, such as Fivelements in Bali, Kamalaya


in Thailand, and Mandara Spas in Bali and across Asia, will also participate, with an announcement expected soon from the Marriott Hotel Group. For the first time ever, the International School of Busan (South Korea) will organise activities focusing on mental and physical wellness for kids. Italy will be extremely active with the Valley of Fiemme rolling out an impressive programme of outdoor activities, and whole cities will promote wellness initiatives in Alassio (Liguria), Alghero and Lolove (Sardinia), as well as the upscale district of Borgo Monferrato in Turino. The Wellness Tourism Association, the EHTTA (European Historical Thermal Towns Association), Paradise Coast in Florida, and the regions of Auvergne and Alsace in France will continue to mobilise more cities to feature wellness tourism in the great outdoors.

Sandals Antigua

Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel

How many countries are set to participate this year?

We will have over 129 countries (North Macedonia could possibly be the 130th), with close to 1,000 cities by September. I really wish that more properties would participate in Africa to showcase breathtaking landscapes and heartwarming hospitality. So far, South Africa and Morocco are the only two active countries on the continent. It is not too late to sign up and appear on the World Wellness Map and showcase your team, your property, your city or region and add one more flag to the United Colours of Wellness! To sign up click here https://map.world-wellness-weekend.org/my-account/ new-account/

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What about South Africa’s participation?

Spa professional, Taryn Lilley, is the WWW Ambassador for South Africa. Her enthusiasm and perseverance is remarkable, with the support of her Coordinator, Rozanne Van Antwerpen, as well as Madeleine Colling (owner of Canvas Aesthetics), the recently appointed City Ambassador for Johannesburg. Here is a highlight of just a few of the many venues that have already confirmed their support. • The spa at the One & Only Hotel in Cape Town will once again prove themselves as a wellness champion by supporting WWW and offering signature experiences. • Canvas Aesthetics will be hosting a ‘Health & Wellness Fair’ in collaboration with many local businesses to provide a day of interactive fun, education and wellness. You can look forward to a ‘Jump Off’ on fitness trampolines hosted by JumpFit Arcade. Professionals will be onsite to provide skin consultations, product knowledge and transformational experiences. There will be healthy food available along with advice on nutrition. The South African Blood Services will also be onsite to provide information and support in a drive for corporate

I REALLY WISH that more properties would PARTICIPATE IN AFRICA to showcase their BREATHTAKING LANDSCAPES and heartwarming hospitality. So far, SOUTH AFRICA AND MOROCCO are the only two ACTIVE COUNTRIES ON THE CONTINENT. social responsibility. • Addiction Recovery Centre (ARC) has a team of professionals that focuses on assisting individuals by offering a holistic approach to mental health care. They will be supporting the WWW event. • The Saxon Hotel Spa will soon unveil their activities for the WWW event with a focus on general wellness and mindfulness. • Urban Sports Marks Park is planning a charity cross-bar challenge. • Jiva Spa at the Taj Hotel will support the wellness movement this year with exciting activities soon to be revealed. • Splash H20 Diving Centre will be supporting WWW by offering free scuba try-outs and giving a tutorial. The WWW SA team also has confirmation of support from fitness venues, yoga and pilates studios, a sleep clinic and much more. Along with the support already received from organisations such as the South African Spa Association and CIDESCO, the team is focused on creating a wellness MOVEMENT this year to encourage more venues to become involved.

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Anantara Al Baled Resort Salalah by Anatara

In your WWW journey over the years – how did you manage to get the commitment of actual cities to support participation in the annual event?

Persistence pays off! The first step is to gather a substantial number of venues to participate in a city. Then, we contact the local Visitors Bureaus, or the Town Hall, to introduce the WWW concept and the audience of 224 million people that we reached pre-COVID in September 2019, with 450+ mentions on TV, radio, print and online publications. That’s when they realise that WWW can support their efforts to showcase their city as a destination to visit, play, live, work, study, retire and even as a place to invest in growing wellness real estate projects and communities. In France, we have received the support of ANETT (a gathering of 900 Mayors of tourism towns) and Route des Villes d’Eaux (federation of 18 thermal towns in Auvergne). In terms of Central Europe, EHTTA is spreading the word to historic hot springs operators, while in Canada, Leading Spas of Canada is doing outstanding work to mobilise their members. The Asociacion Americana de Spa in Latin America is mobilising cities in Argentina. In Cyprus, the Cyprus Spa Association is partnering with the Minister of Tourism to implement wellness videos in hotel rooms, while in Malaysia, the Association of Malaysian Spas has teamed up with MAWSpa (Malaysian Association of Wellness & Spa) and Tourism Malaysia. This year, the Wellness Tourism Association has signed a strategic partnership with WWW to guide and counsel DMOs (Destination Management Organisations) to launch short-term wellness initiatives, and also to strategically position themselves in the mid-term as official wellness destinations. As you can see, World Wellness Weekend is so much more than ‘two days of free yoga or mediation classes’. It is a catalyst bringing hospitality, tourism, beauty, sports and fitness professionals around the globe together with officials to accelerate growth through the third Sustainable Development Goal of the United Nations – ‘Good Health and Well-being for All’.

How has WWW grown over the years?

I launched WWW in March 2017 with 160 venues participating in France and Belgium in September 2017. Then we rapidly grew to 650 venues in 88 countries in 2018, and 2,350 venues in 98 countries in 2019.



“There is no organ or system of the body that is not affected by music and vibration.” his was a quote by Dr Mitchell Gaynor, the late director of Medical Oncology and Integrative Medicine at the Cornell Cancer Prevention Centre in New York. Dr Gaynor had used sound with cancer patients, including Tibetan bowls, crystal bowls and chanting. But, what is the foundation of sound as a healing modality? What does scientific research say? Sound as a vessel for healing is something that our ancient mystics have been telling us probably since the beginning of recorded (and perhaps even pre-recorded) history. Now our modern quantum physicists and scientists are saying the same thing – that everything is in a state of vibration. One of the basic tenets of using sound as a healing modality is simply this: we are like this extraordinary orchestra and we’re playing the symphony of the self. Every organ, every bone, every tissue, every part of our body is playing together, producing different frequencies, different sounds.

Photo by Magic Bowls on Unsplash

A ‘sound’ solution International visiting wellness practitioner, Michelle Saudan, explains the theory behind sound healing and how this treatment modality can be incorporated into a spa offering 24

EVERY ORGAN, every bone, every tissue, EVERY PART of our body is PLAYING TOGETHER like an orchestra, producing DIFFERENT FREQUENCIES, DIFFERENT SOUNDS. How it affects us

There are two ways that sound affects us, namely psychoacoustics and vibroacoustics. In terms of psychoacoustics, sound goes into our ears and into our brain and affects our nervous system, our heart rate, our respiration, our brain waves. Listening to music, or even just listening to our own voice, is an aspect of using sound for healing. Think of how one of your favourite songs has the ability to uplift your mood instantaneously. With vibroacoustics – sound goes into us and affects us on a cellular level, on a molecular level. It actually shifts and changes our entire DNA structure. To quote an article from the NY Times Science Section (from February 8, 1988), sound can ‘make, break or rearrange molecules’.

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WELLNESS Orchestra analogy

When we are in a state of health, we say that we’re in sound health. Using the metaphor of the body being like an orchestra, what happens if the second violin player loses their sheet music? They begin to play out of tune, out of harmony. Pretty soon the entire string section is off. Pretty soon the entire orchestra is actually sounding off. This would be similar to a part of our body vibrating out of its natural harmony, its natural healthy resonance and its fundamental vibrations. Because of this, we say it’s vibrating out of ease, out of harmony. We call it dis-ease. The basic idea of using sound as a healing modality is simply, what if we could restore the string player who lost their sheet music? What if we could give them back the sheet music? What if we could somehow restore back that part of our body that was vibrating out of ease or harmony? Or it could be our brain, our etheric fields, so many different aspects of the self and the bioenergetic field and all the other names, the auric field, the chakras or energy centres.

CREATION OF spa journeys incorporating SOUND HEALING must come from a place of GENUINE INTENTION and a connection to THE INSTRUMENTS, as opposed to SIMPLY INTRODUCING them for the sole reason of THEIR HARMONY. Benefits

Here are some of the benefits of sound healing therapy • Deep Relaxation • Helps clear energetic blockages • Supports mental, emotional and spiritual wellbeing • Improves sleep • Lowers blood pressure • Relieves muscle tension

What is used in sound therapy?

For as long as our ancestors had used their voices and instruments of sound for prayers and sacred rites, we as a global community have used sound to heal. Culturally, the tools are different based on locations across the world and traditions of that time, however the underlying principle of the purpose/ intention is the same. Sound therapy integrates various types of instruments such as: the voice, bells, chimes, singing bowls, flutes, string instruments, tuning forks, gongs and much more into a practice. Every instrument, when played, vibrates at a unique frequency and a frequency is often referred to as a pitch. As a result, there are many types of frequencies that are used in sound healing, which can either be combined or used alone, based on the client’s needs. For example, in my practice, I use a string instrument called a Monochord, tuned to the frequency of 432 hertz (Hz). According to music theory, A=432 Hz is mathematically consistent

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with the universe. This is known as Verdi’s ‘A’ – named after Giuseppe Verdi, the famous Italian composer. So it makes sense for us to be attuned to the natural electromagnetic pulses of the earth – at 432 Hz – we would, in turn, feel more centred, balanced, conscious and peaceful. This is often the beautiful outcome after a session.

Sound in spa and wellness offerings

The beauty of sound healing is that you can creatively curate unique journeys with any standard spa offering, such as combining sound with facials, body treatments and/ or yoga/ guided meditations, and private/ group sound bath sessions as well. Creation of these journeys must come from a place of genuine intention* and a connection to the instruments, as opposed to simply introducing them for the sole reason of their harmony. As a visiting wellness practitioner, one of my signature services is The Yēmaya Experience®. During this treatment, the vibroacoustic frequencies of the Ohm tuning forks 136.1 and 432 hertz (pulses per second) of the Monochord and the sacred African Mbira are applied directly on the different meridian points of the body and integrated with a combination of different bodywork techniques to achieve a deep state of relaxation. This enables my client to re-lease tension, re-connect with self-love and re-harmonize at the physical, emotional and mental levels.

Power of intention as facilitator for sound healing therapy

As a practitioner, connecting with yourself and your client as you entrust your intuition allows for the unseen healing force of energy that is all around to be expressed naturally. You can’t really do it by the book! As a therapist, I create the harmonious environment coupled with my intentions to guide my clients into a journey of self-healing. I think it’s really important for people tuning into this to realise that our intention, when we make a sound, is vitally important because once again two people can make the same sound and from that perspective, have two very different effects. As one seeking healing, you need to open more than your ears and allow yourself to be receptive. *“Sound + Intention (of the therapist and receiver) = Healing” – Jonathan Goldman (Music/ Sound Pioneer)

Michelle Saudan hails from Zimbabwe and is currently based in Dubai. She has been serving in the spa & wellness industry since 2010 and her current role is an International Visiting Wellness Practitioner. Her life journey has taken her into massage/ spa therapy/ management, life coaching/ neuro linguistic programming, sound healing and meditation. Saudan has been privileged to travel to 67 countries. https://www. yemayaexperiences.com



Seize the (cold) day! Even in nonpandemic times, the winter months are a traditionally slow time for salons and spas. Marisa Dimitriadis of The Spa Professionals Guild provides some valuable advice on how to warm up your winter revenue Photo by Spencer Backman on Unsplash

“The winter months are my worst months for business, turnover decreases and the staff seem demotivated at times.”

“Treatment bookings are down, clients are cancelling appointments and product houses are increasing their prices. I’m not sure how to keep my business open, let alone show any growth.”

Are you feeling like any of the above salon/ spa owners? If yes, keep reading. First of all, you need to begin by accepting the fact that there should be NO decrease in turnover in your spa/ salon in the winter months. As soon as you accept and acknowledge that fact, you will be more open to ideas and proven methods that work in terms of keeping your turnover constant, sometimes even increased, and ensuring your staff are motivated. We can get absorbed by excuses and quickly fall into a scarcity mindset, which is a bigger problem


“I am especially stressed for this winter due to the pandemic economy. Will my business survive and how do I keep my staff focused and my turnover up?”

than keeping revenue up in winter. Secondly, resolve to have speed of implementation. It amazes me how many business owners love the ideas and can see how they would work, but simply lack a sense of urgency. They behave almost as if they were waiting for someone to do it for them. Well, it’s not going to happen and neither are miracles, so the sooner you get your head in the game, implement revenue boosting strategies, and get that abundance mindset on turbo charge, the quicker you will see changes.

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Winter business boosters

Here is a very basic checklist of tips – why not start by applying three or four of them and see what happens to your business?

Tip 1

Give clients what they WANT, not what you want to promote. There is no doubt that consumers have reduced their treatment spend, so be careful not to try promote the treatments you are trying to move, but rather promote the treatments they NEED and cannot really do without. If massage is your most popular booked treatment, then combine the massage with a treatment that you want to promote as a package. But think carefully when doing this. Massage has a very low cost of goods and offers a great opportunity for retail, so the other treatment should also allow for retail opportunity and carry a low cost of goods. You can either give it as free or at half price. Be very careful when costing promotions and use a profit calculator spreadsheet. Bundle retail into promotions as a second option. For example: massage 60 minutes (your most popular + low cost of goods) plus choose either manicure or pedicure 60 minutes (low cost of goods, upsell opportunities and retail opportunities) plus a collagen boosting product at R1,500.

Image by PublicDomainPictures from Pixabay

Tip 2

Sell winter contracts. This is not rocket science – just follow this simple process and see what the results are. Don’t expect miracles and for every single client to buy in, but remember that practise makes perfect. So start now and see in a few years’ time how this simple winter contracts idea can change your business. Start by once again consulting with your staff and identify your top 10 clients for a small salon, top 30 clients for a medium size

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salon, and top 50 clients for a larger salon/ spa. Look back at their history and see what treatments they have done over the past three months (so work on February, March and April treatments). Add up the total spend on treatments and then call them in for an appointment, or offer them their specialised, tailor made winter contract that is exclusive to them at their next treatment. Work on the same treatments they have done, offer them a 10% – 20% discount (depending on their spend – smaller spend 10%, medium spenders 15%, large spenders 20%) on the same treatments, which will be valid for the next three months. Throw in one treatment they are not doing that you would like to introduce them to. They can either pay by credit card on three months budget, or they can pay upfront. Offer terms that both you and your client will feel comfortable with. This can either work like a bomb, or blow up in your face, so be careful how you do this.

THERE IS NO DOUBT that consumers HAVE REDUCED their TREATMENT SPEND, so BE CAREFUL not to try PROMOTE THE TREATMENTS you are trying to move, but rather PROMOTE THE TREATMENTS THEY NEED. Ensure that each client is given a personalised letter and package offer with their name on it, either from their therapist if they have an excellent relationship with their therapist, or from the spa owner or manager. Ensure to let the client know that this has been done only for your top 10 clients and that the reason you are doing it is to thank them for their loyalty and business. Get your product supplier involved to give them a small gift once they have signed the contract. What will happen after this is simple, the consumer will have spare money to purchase more home care, or to book additional treatments as her next three months spend on treatments has been covered and paid for. Make sure you get the client to sign the contract and understand that after three months, these treatments will expire so they must book them within the specified time, otherwise there is no point. Be clear that this is not a gift voucher – this is buying three months’ worth of treatments upfront at a reduced price and with added value.



Offer staff higher commission for achieving their winter specials and contracts target. Let’s face it, money makes everyone tick and any opportunity to earn any extra money will not be turned down by anyone and if it is, get rid of them! If you want your winter months to make more revenue, or even the same as the summer months, motivate your staff to work harder to get clients in. So, whether it be by giving them a fixed amount per contract sold, or giving them a target for winter special bookings to incentivise them, find some way where your staff can earn more money. Remember one thing in terms of your staff, what you put in is what you are going to get out.

IF YOU WANT your winter months to MAKE MORE REVENUE, or even the same as the SUMMER MONTHS, MOTIVATE YOUR STAFF to work harder to GET CLIENTS IN.

IF YOU DON’T HAVE any machine TREATMENTS TO OFFER, then you seriously need to lOOK AT YOUR BUSINESS and decide WHICH MACHINE you can INVEST IN THIS winter season. THE MACHINE TREND is definitely here, so YOUR BUSINESS SHOULD be cashing in on it. Image by Firmbee from Pixabay

Tip 4

Christmas in July. I love this idea and you are still on time to make it happen. Speed of implementation is king here. Basically, you will treat July as if it were Christmas. Put up the decorations, get everyone dressed up and festive, and have the most glorious winter Christmas ever. Put up Christmas stockings all over the salon with mystery prizes inside that range from 10% discount off a treatment, to a free treatment, to a free product. Get your suppliers involved to support you. For every extra treatment a client books, they get to choose a stocking. So, if the client books a pedicure – that does not count and neither does a gel polish upsell. But if they book a facial extra or a massage extra, that counts. For clarity purposes, have a special ‘Christmas in July’ menu list and once a client has booked for one or two treatments, you simply offer them an extra treatment off the list and if they take it, they get to choose the contents of a Christmas stocking. This will result in one extra treatment sold, Imagine having a July where you sell double the treatments you forecast. This strategy will also introduce a festive feeling into your business, which the consumer and your staff need right now.


Tip 5

Promote your machine treatments. Winter is the ideal time for some machine-based treatments, especially IPL, plasma, radiofrequency or hydrabrasion, as consumers don’t tend to spend too much time in the sun. So take advantage and put these machine treatments on promotion. If you don’t have any machine treatments to offer, then you seriously need to look at your business and decide which machine you can invest in this winter season. The machine trend is definitely here, so your business should be cashing in on it. Please use this winter to make a tangible change in your business and commit yourself to making more money and having happier, more motivated staff. If your plan doesn’t work, then change the plan but never the goal.

Marisa Dimitriadis if the founder and owner of The Spa Consultants. Email marisa@ thespaconsultants.co.za

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IT IS TIME TO REMOVE THE MASK. #hydrofacial #H2-glowbeauty

RENT TO BUY No long term contract (12-24 months) No hidden costs. Pay one fixed amount per month. Includes warranty & insurance. Includes starter professional size products. H2GLOW HAS YOUR CUSTOMERS SKIN & YOUR CLINIC COVERED WITH QUICK, SAFE & EFFECTIVE RESULTS. www.spaandsalonsolutions.com or karen@spaandsalonsolutions.co.za


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Let your client’s eyes do the talking Riana Both creates a smokey eye tutorial using the 2021 Pantone colours ake-up trends always change over the decades and, with each season, we see the Pantone colours dictating make-up, nail and hair colour looks. For more than a year, the COVID-19 pandemic has influenced the make-up scene and each season’s looks. We find ourselves putting more focus on the eyes, due to the fact that we need to wear masks like superheroes when going out and about. However, this does not mean that your make-up needs to be boring. Doing a subtle, smokey ombre look with the Pantone colours can be striking, and can be a great look for the office (if you are lucky enough not to be working remotely). Pair this look with some medium length lashes if you are going out for dinner and you will be the talk of the town.

Step 1

Once you have shaped your brows, find the crease of the eye and start by packing the light grey in the crease.

Step 2

Buff the edge of the light grey until soft and diffused.

Step 3

• Professional Tip for a striking eye – shaped and well maintained eyebrows

On the soft blended light grey crease, pack darker grey colour and buff until no harsh lines are visible.


Step 4

• Fluffy blending brush • Eyeshadow brushes (preferably one for each colour) • Eyeshadow in shades of grey (Professional Tip – grey suits any eye colour) • Highlighter • Light grey • Darker grey • Black • Pantone colour of choice • Optional – medium length lashes

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With your black, carefully apply in the outer corner only, and use a clean, fluffy blending brush to diffuse the colour into the other colours.

Step 5

Add any one of the Pantone shades as a pop of colour onto the ball of the eye, and blend into the rest of the colours. Highlight the part of the eye under the brow with your highlighter.

Step 6

If you wish, you can apply a black eyeliner to the top and bottom lid.

Step 7

Add a few coats of your favourite mascara and voila! You are ready to go.

Riana Botha is an experienced make-up and nail artist and the owner of The Make Up Monsters.


SKINCARE Clinically effective Wound healing A scar is part of the skin’s natural repair cycle following a wound. As the wound heals, the body produces new collagen fibres and elastin at the site of the wound to replace and repair those that were damaged. Although a scar will never completely disappear, early treatment with the SIX Pro Active Scar Repair can reduce its size and change its appearance to the extent where it is not noticeable at all. Active ingredients include inca inchi oil, hyaluronic acid, centella asiatica, saccharide isomearate, allantoin and seaweed blend.

Time to get Active

Just as in medicine where active ingredients have an effect on the body, so too do active ingredients in skincare products have an effect on the skin in addressing particular concerns

Derived from fruit Beauté Pacifique SuperFruit is a 360-degree skincare system that enhances and preserves the skin’s properties to stay youthful and glowing as long as possible. It consists of Day and Night Creams, Micellar Cleansers, a Treatment Serum and a Hydrating Mist. The creams are enriched with three natural extracts from nutritious SuperFruits. Their positive effects on the skin are due to their high levels of antioxidants that protect skin cells, while optimising the skin’s renewal processes and moisture levels, as well as preventing blemishes and redness even on the most sensitive skins. Vaccinium vitis-idaea (lingonberry) fruit extract is a brand new ingredient derived from the stem cells of lingeronberries, which are a super fruit. The stem cell


ingredient has three basic main mechanisms – antioxidant defence, moisture retention and amplifying the skin´s collagen network, corresponding to the effect of vitamin A esters. Argania spinosa kernel extract and serenoa serrulata fruit extract are a special blend of natural extracts that significantly reduce skin’s oil production. A unique formulation with six active ingredients work together to reduce the appearance of scars after surgery, burns and acne, as well as speed up healing of the skin post aesthetic procedures, such as skin peeling and micro-needling.

DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care represents dermatologically approved and clinically effective products, formulated for the correction, prevention and protection of the skin. Says Ursula Volbrecht of DermaFix: “Our aim is to provide advanced skin care products and protocols, with focus placed on anti-ageing, hyperpigmentation, acne, sensitivity, stretch marks and scars. “Embracing new proven technology as it develops, our skin care solutions and in-clinic treatments make use of clinically tested ingredients. These include alpha and beta hydroxy acids, retinols, plant based stem cells, enzymes, liposome encapsulated peptides and advanced natural phytonutrients and botanicals, providing measurable and visible skin care results. DermaFix has sourced laboratories across the world to supply effective solutions and updated formulations for superior skin care. Two new booster additions to the range are the DermaFix B3 Boost and the DermaFix Hyalu7 Boost. The DermaFix B3 Boost is an ultra-concentrated topical niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3 or nicotinamide, which enhances the skin’s barrier and functioning by increasing the synthesis of ceramides and free fatty acids within the skin. Clinical trials have shown that niacinamide reduced Trans Epidermal Water Loss by 20% at day 24, while a study concentrating on texture, redness, blotchiness and uneven pigmentation showed an improved appearance within 12 weeks of use. DermaFix Hyalu7 Boost offers an advanced hyaluronic acid formulation, incorporating an optimised ratio of seven unique molecular weights to provide maximum hydration, whilst stimulating hyaluronic acid production within the skin for deeper moisturisation and anti-ageing benefits.

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JOICO honours its top salons Professional hair brand JOICO, now owned by Twincare International, held an event at The Westin Hotel Cape Town on 25 May to award top performing salons and colorists. Ulrica Maia reports

great ambassadors for the brand. Hair @ Carol & Co. JOICO Color Award Awarded for being a JOICO Colorist and color specialist in the industry. Doubell Hair JOICO Color Award Awarded for being a JOICO Colorist and color specialist in the industry. Capelli JOICO Color Award Awarded for being a JOICO Colorist and color specialist in the industry. Capelli JOICO Salon of the Year Award - Awarded for exceptional overall growth and performance as an individual salon.

The Capelli team with Twincare’s Stav Dimitridis (front row, left)

t the Twincare International event honouring JOICO salons, a fond farewell was bid to JOICO’s former owners, Heather Miller and Pam Morrison. There was also a special celebration for regional sales manager, Claire Thewlis, for her 15th JOICO anniversary.

2000. Balisimo JOICO Exceptional Growth Award - Awarded for the highest growth in spend and new business ventures with the brand.

JOICO and Twincare congratulate all the award winners.

NIX Hair JOICO Loyalty Award Awarded for being a salon partner with PH Hairsystems for many years and being great ambassadors for the

Gerda Jacobs JOICO Original Award Awarded for being the first client of PH Hairsystems in

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Style Bar JOICO Group of the Year Award - Awarded for outstanding growth as a group.

brand. The Cutting Gallery JOICO Loyalty Award Awarded for being a salon partner with PH Hairsystems for many years and being great ambassadors for the brand. Hair Affair JOICO Loyalty Award Awarded for being a salon partner with PH Hairsystems for many years and being great ambassadors for the brand. Spoilt JOICO Loyalty Award Awarded for being a salon partner with PH Hairsystems for many years and being

Scissors on Main JOICO Initiative Award Awarded for the Initiative in outstanding support for the industry during the drought in the Karoo. Studio One JOICO Business Initiative Social Media Award Awarded for outstanding social media presence and engagement with the brand. The Salon - Ladysmith JOICO Small Town Salon of the Year Award - Awarded for exceptional overall growth and performance as an individual salon. Tamlyn Parker – Zimbabwe JOICO Export Salon of the Year Award - Awarded for exceptional overall growth and performance as an individual export salon.



Waxing tips to keep clients loyal Building a loyal client base is the Holy Grail for any waxer. Kieran Read reveals how to keep waxing clients committed to your salon

Close communication

“Don’t forget to do a full consultation with your clients every treatment. Has their medication changed? Are they using skincare containing retinol or a high level of vitamin A, which can make the skin thinner and more sensitive? Are they allergic to sticking plasters, pine or tree nuts such as macadamia, hazelnut, shea butter or cacao?”, advises Tracey Smith, founder and director of Ashmira Botanica.

Train in pregnancy waxing

Adding pregnancy waxing to your repertoire is a great way to attract and retain loyal clients. “The most important factor is that your client is comfortable and the chosen treatment is suitable,” says pregnancy waxing specialist, Marta Zaczkowska, founder of London salon and training school, The Waxing Specialist. “Leg and facial waxing can be done safely throughout most of the pregnancy but we only recommend intimate waxing after 12 weeks and up to 38 weeks in.” Photo by Kate Hliznitsova on Unsplash

strong waxing client base is not only essential for a reliable revenue, but can make your customers feel like part of a family. When performing wax treatments day in, day out, it can become easy for therapists to slip into bad routines. In such a competitive field, this is enough to drive those customers away to your local competitors. Reviewing and updating your processes is key if you want clients to return time and time again. Here leading waxers reveal their trade secrets on keeping clients committed to their salons.


Get the temperature right

Cold rooms are uncomfortable for clients, yet high room temperatures can play havoc with your wax setting times, but there is a workaround, says Andy Rouillard, owner of Axiom Bodyworks waxing salon and training school. “If you find your wax is taking too long to set on the body, simply dampen a cotton pad with water and wipe over the top to rapidly cool and harden any gummy patches.”

The thinner the better

“In treatments, make sure wax is applied thinly, evenly – and at a high temperature – quickly and comfortably. This not only makes it nice and easy for therapists performing the treatment, but less painful for clients,” says Jessica Kilby, waxing specialist at Australian Bodycare.

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HAIR REMOVAL Have a good range of products Charge what you’re worth

“Get your pricing right. Too cheap and people will wonder why your service is priced so low, but too expensive and they will look elsewhere for a saving. Know your customer and competition in the area and price accordingly,” explains Lisa Stone, Salon System’s Just Wax educator and wax specialist.

“Every therapist has their favourite type of wax, however, that does not mean that it may be the most suitable one for your client’s hair or skin type, or for the treatment that they’re having performed. Salons should ensure that they select a wax brand that offers excellent results, value and can provide them with a complete waxing solution,” says David Sneddon, operations and marketing manager for Hive. Waxers should note that to prevent contamination, each spatula should be disposed of hygienically after each wax application and removal. And, remember to clean your wax heater after every client.

Reward repeat customers

“Loyalty schemes are a great way to keep your clients returning, it will make them feel valued and it’s a good way of thanking them for their custom. Also, send a birthday greeting, gift or money off voucher as a thank you for referrals to make them feel special,” says Stone.

Kieran Read is content writer at Professional Beauty Group, helping to create news, features, reports and social media for the group.

*This article first appeared in Professional Beauty UK.

Dermacare Distributors introduces the Complete Elastique Hypoallergenic Range… Naturally special…not just a wax removal but a complete treatment enriched by nature. Elastique Pomegranate, Elastique Macadamia & Ginger, Elastique Rice Cream Brazilian Film Wax formulations are enriched with effective natural ingredients. Most definitely the new frontier of epilation is the elastique treatment method, catering to all skin types. Its highly potent action combined with a flexible, soft, and manageable texture removes only the hair without irritating the skin. A bonus is its multidirectional use and paper-thin application, saving you time and money, giving you excellent ROI. The Pre-Waxing Delicate Mousse Lotion Enriched with Macadamia*, Rice* and Pomegranate

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(*From organic farming) is a beautiful lightweight pre-cleanser with a soft fragrance. The mousse action ensures very low product usage per treatment, while effectively cleansing the skin. Innovative Single use non-woven Mittens for application of the Pre-Wax Mousse The unique Pre-Waxing powder Enriched with Elderberry Extract and Zinc Oxide exceptionally enhances the removal of hair, resulting in a virtually painless treatment. The Soothing & Nourishing PostWaxing Milk with Rice Oil, Rice Starch and Shea Oil leaves the skin soothed, soft, and aglow. Visit our website www. dermacare-distributors.com to learn about the exceptional benefits of this range or email us at: info@dermacare-distributors.com

Photo by cottonbro from Pexels


Zooming in on the neck Aesthetic plastic surgeon, Dr Nerina Wilkinson, outlines the options for rejuvenating the neck, an area of the body that is a sure fire giveaway of ageing. beautiful, youthful neck has been the inspiration of many sculptures through the ages and therefore our pursuit of ‘the perfect elegant neck’ continues. The face and neck are parts of the body most exposed to the elements and are thus most affected by the ageing process. Recently, increasing numbers of people are working from home and therefore more patients in my practice have become aware of the ageing process, specifically in the neck. This dynamic has even been named ‘The Zoom effect’. Over the past 20 years, the management of the ageing neck has seen multiple ‘neck rejuvenating’ treatments advertised in the aesthetic media. The reason for so many treatment modalities is due to the complexity of treating this area and understanding that to achieve the best results, often a


combination of treatments is required to address the causes of sagging in the neck.

Surgical and non-surgical options

In the 1990s, a conventional facelift was the treatment of choice, where only the skin was pulled tight to improve a sagging neck. However, many people were put off by the typical ‘Hollywood tight wind tunnel’ faces.



Patients have become more educated in cosmetic surgery options over the past 10 years, and an increasing number of them are now making use of less invasive procedures to delay surgical procedures. As such, patients are requesting more natural results with no scars and shorter recovery times, so as to return back to their work and lifestyles as quickly as possible. The aesthetic world has seen a large increase in non-surgical techniques to improve the neck and jawline.

IT IS IMPORTANT to remember that when PATIENTS ARE OLDER and show more LOOSE SKIN around the neck and jowls, the LESSER INVASIVE PROCEDURES will not ACHIEVE ADEQUATE REJUVENATING RESULTS. A less invasive approach includes • Injectable foundation fillers or the ‘Liquid Face Lift’. This procedure is designed to bring back the youthful features of the neck through the volumetric replacement of the jawline structures and recontouring the lower face and neck skin. The procedure is performed in the office with no downtime. • Thread lifts are indicated in patients with minimal skin laxity requiring facial remodelling/ lifting without scars. The procedure is performed under local anaesthetic in a day clinic. Threads are inserted with a fine needle under the skin and suspended to a fixed point. Your own collagen will surround the threads and the effect of this treatment will last for six to nine months. • Radiofrequency heating devices. There are a multitude of radiofrequency devices designed to tighten neck skin, or to help prevent the skin from getting too loose. This treatment remains an option for some patients in their 40s – and even early 50s – but not for someone who has significant sagging. In my practice, a combination of foundation fillers, Morpheus 8 Radiofrequency and medical collagen induction therapy with platelet rich plasma is my treatment of choice in younger patients to prevent an ageing sagging neck. • Bioidentical hormones can decrease some of the sagging under the neck, as can some creams that contain epidermal growth factors.

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The reality is that the neck is built in layers and by treating just the first few layers of skin and subcutaneous fat, there is a finite amount of change you can make. It is important to remember that when patients are older and show more loose skin around the neck and jowls, the lesser invasive procedures will not achieve adequate rejuvenating results. Generally, when you get patients into their late 50s, you’re most likely going to be doing the neck lift.

‘MACS Lift’

Surgical skin excision procedures are indicated in the above patients. Today, however, as plastic surgeons we understand the importance of minimally invasive procedures and that patients are demanding less visible scars. The ‘MACS Lift’ (Minimal Access Cranial Suspension) or ‘S- Lift’ is a procedure I use commonly in my practice when patients require more extensive lifting and refreshing of the lower 2/3 of the face and neck. This lift is achieved by lifting the skin and tightening the muscle bands and layers of tissue connected to the facial muscles. Only a minimal amount of skin needs to be removed. The ‘MACS Lift’ is less invasive than the classic facelift and offers natural results with less scars and shorter recovery time. The results last about five years. The ‘Classic Facelift’ is the more extensive, invasive technique for facial lifting. This still remains an excellent choice for older patients with more sagging skin of the face and neck. However, it does involve a longer recovery time and more extensive scarring. In the ‘Classic Facelift’, a cut is made extending from the hairline above the ear, in front of the ear and behind the ear, back into the occipital hairline. The skin and muscle are pulled upwards and back and any excess skin is trimmed away. A new trend is that younger patients (35-45 years) are seeking facelifts. This too has been one of the rapidly increasing requests in my practice. Patients today definitely want to bypass the typical stages of ageing, i.e. jowls and loose necks. The availability of a variety of face lifting techniques and skin tightening devices has revolutionised the anti-ageing practices of most modern plastic surgeons. For all patients, neck rejuvenating options are more varied and there is a range of lifts for every face.

Dr Nerina Wilkinson is known as Cape Town’s facial rejuvenation and breast expert. She is a leading aesthetic plastic surgeon with over 20 years of clinical experience. Dr Wilkinson occupies a unique position when it comes to holistic facial rejuvenation techniques. Her innovative treatments combine surgical and non-surgical modalities and are based on in-depth scientific knowledge and her experience. She is the founder and director of Dr. Nerina Wilkinson + Associates.



Crème Metamorphique This patented vitamin A anti-wrinkle cream from Danish medical-grade skincare brand, Beauté Pacifique, is a ‘must-have’ daily aid for everybody above the age of 25 years who wishes to diminish and prevent the signs of ageing. Crème Metamorphique provides the skin with two forms of vitamin A to rebuild the collagen fibre structures and help the skin become reinforced and rejuvenated. It is preferably to be used as a night cream and applied very sparingly onto cleansed skin on the face and neck. Applied in the correct amount, it will be instantly absorbed. The cream should only be used every second day during the first week to allow the skin to adapt to the medPacical-grade dosage vitamin A. When used with la Forte Collagen Booster, Beauté Pacifique clinical studies prove a 25% more dense collagen structure and a 59% increase in moisture levels.

The firming and lifting effects of the Esse Plus Ageless Serum age-defying serum make it the ideal neck treatment product. As with all Esse products, the focus is on repairing the skin and restoring balance to slow down ageing, with a more long term approach as opposed to a quick fix. Ageless Serum is enriched with probiotics to stimulate the skin’s production of b-defensins. These peptides work by shifting the microbes on the skin to favour more beneficial species, so that that they can work on outcompeting the microbes that speed up the ageing process. The addition of botanical actives Kigelia, Suma Root, Muira Puama Bark and Madonna Lily are used in combination to improve the strength of capillary walls and aid in tissue repair. Over time, skin firmness and youthfulness improve. Ageless Serum must be applied morning and evening before moisturising.

In the Neck of time

As the skin on the neck is even thinner than that of the face and the muscle and skin tissue weaker, it is important to regularly apply appropriate products to this vulnerable area DeCeLeRate and Collagen Conformer DermaFix DeCeLeRate is a corrective moisturiser that utilises the key ingredients Matrixyl® 3000, Matrixyl Synthe 6® and Argireline®, all essential in the production of collagen and elastin fibres. Working to reduce the depth of fine lines and wrinkles, DeCeLeRate offers visible change over a short period of time as it provides improved wound repair and tissue remodelling benefits, whilst helping to restore the skin by the upregulation of collagen and elastin production. Also from DermaFix, Collagen Conformer with Acetyl TetraPeptides 9 and 11 works to accelerate the restructuring of the dermis with an immediate tightening effect or ‘flash lift’ being clearly visible upon application. This serum is ideal for the neck and décolleté.


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JULY 2021


t’s an all-important topic that keeps coming up over and over again – the vital importance of only using and retailing professional brands from reputable suppliers who can vouch for the authenticity of their products. Using cheap nail products sourced from the internet or from other unauthorised sources may end up seriously damaging your clients’ nails. Our lead news story cites a horrific example of just such a case. It’s no coincidence that we are also running in this issue the first in a series of highly informative articles on product chemistry. Nail techs should know about the chemicals used in nail products, how the products are formulated, and what to look for when sourcing a reputable professional product. This kind of knowledge is essential for effective service delivery and for maintaining the health of your client’s natural nails. This issue also features an interview with an icon in the international nail sector, the UK-based Marian Newman, one of the founders of Nail Knowledge. Joanna Sterkowicz Editor

Photo by Bryony Elena on Unsplash

What’s INSIDE 41

Nail News

Salons urged to use only professional products from reputable distributors


Ask the Experts

What is the difference between 3D, 4D and 5D nail art?



Know those nails


Step by Step Giraffe print



Know your chemicals


Top Tech Talk

Marianka Van Niekerk


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Photo by Andrea Piacquadio from Pexels

Salons urged to use only professional products from reputable distributors It has come to Professional Beauty & NailFile’s attention that two women in Gauteng developed serious skin and nail reactions following use of products that were, according to their packaging, supposed to be professional brands. This has raised the question of whether some salons and/ or suppliers may be filling professional brand bottles with cheap, white label products. Says one of the affected women, who wishes to remain anonymous. “I had been using a supposedly professional brand of nail polish for a few months but then my nails started to burn and I experienced hives up my arm and severe burning, when applying two colours in particular. The following day my fingers were covered in small blisters. I went to my doctor, who at the time treated me for contact dermatitis and put me on a course of cortisone and antibiotics. The condition did not clear up after two weeks on antibiotics and my nails only became worse, and started separating from the nail bed. “After two months of back and forth trips to the doctor, I was eventually diagnosed with severe chemical burns from the nail polish. It has been six months now and my nails are still healing after this ordeal. I contacted the supplier and they offered to pay for all my medical bills. When I asked if they were a white label brand, they said they could not comment and that they have not had many reactions like mine reported to them and that the volumes they sell vs the bad reactions is a very low percentage! But how many ladies are being told they have a fungal condition, psoriasis or reaction to sanitisers, as opposed to damage caused by nail products? I believe that the chemicals that are allowed to be used in our industry are outrageous and surely we

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should stand together to ensure only quality products are used with no harsh chemicals. “If you go onto social media, you will find posts from people who have also had disastrous reactions to nail products and services.” Says Consulting Educator and industry expert, Sonette van Rensburg: “I am completely distressed to hear about such cases and have come across similar things on Facebook. The advice and comments that follow such posts are really upsetting and mostly based on opinion rather than the correct or fact based information. Unfortunately, there is no regulatory body in South Africa that can put a stop to these kind of issues, so the next best thing is to educate everyone and make them more aware. “I therefore started writing a series of articles in Professional Beauty & NailFile magazine about all of these concerns that are harming people and the nail industry. My aim is to specifically reach nail professionals and salons and to encourage them to urgently stop unsafe practices in our industry and to become more knowledgeable about the importance of using good quality products, which have undergone testing, versus using no name brands or white label products.” Refer to our article about Know Your Nail Products & Chemistry, which provides important information about the chemicals used in nail products, it will also guide you on making sure you know what you’re using and how to prevent issue like these from occurring. Professional Beauty & NailFile has also heard from a supplier who has reported a marked drop in business as some of its stockists are apparently filling their empty branded bottles with cheap products bought on the internet.




5D 4D

What is the difference between 3D, 4D and 5D nail art? Nail art is an ever changing and evolving part of today’s nail service offerings and we cannot imagine the nail industry without it. The variety and types of different nail art techniques is endless. In this article we will discuss the differences between 3D, 4D and 5D nail designs. Firstly, 3D nail art. This is elevated nail art on the flat surface of the nail and protrudes from one angle, usually a front view, but you can see the sides of the art as well, like a flower, for example. The design remains relatively flat. 3D nail art is extremely popular for special occasions, or for the client who wants a special set of custom nails. 4D nail art is a sculpture that is much more elevated than the 3D nail art; you are able to view the art in a 360° rotation, and it is also fixed to the flat surface of the nail or tip. Popular varieties are animals (i.e. frogs, cats and dogs), as well as all kinds of flowers. These types of nail designs have their own specific customers, but not everyone is willing to wear them on their nails because it’s not practical to do so for everyday life. When it comes to 5D nail art, this is a complete sculpture of an object that can


stand on its own – it is not attached to a nail or tip. Examples of 5D nail art are sculptures of dolls or animals. There is a lot more detail in a sculpture as it has to look completely realistic; the eyes, ears, nose and mouth are meticulously sculpted, as well as arms legs and fingers. Each part of the sculpture needs to look as realistic as possible. You could sculpt replicas of pets or children for clients, as an extra service. This type of nail art is also often used in nail art competition compositions.

Cindy Visagie is a qualified nail professional and nail artist with over six years of experience in the nail industry. Nail art is her passion and she finds it an amazing way to satisfy your creative streak, showcase your talent and to offer something unique and special to your clients. In terms of her nail art skills, Visagie has attended various advanced training courses and workshops and has had the honour to learn from the best educators and nail artists in the South African industry.

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TOP TIPS For HANDS Milk Solutions founder, Karen Ellithorne, provides input on how to give hands some much needed TLC, after more than a year of being dried out by pandemicinduced sterilisation protocols The skin on our hands always becomes much drier during the winter months and this problem has been greatly exacerbated by being forced to use hand sanitisers every time we enter a public place. Dry or dehydrated skin can speed up the natural ageing process. Here are some tips to mitigate the damage.

Tip 1 – hand washing and hygiene

Do not use hot water when washing your hands as it removes the natural moisture barrier on the skin, which could result in further dehydration. This, in conjunction with the use of an over 70% alcohol based sanitiser, can prove to be even more drying and damaging to the skin. Use a pH balanced hand wash to prevent the hands from drying out and to avoid any irritations.

Tip 2 – exfoliation

Exfoliate the hands two to three times a week with a good exfoliator to assist with removing dead skin and to improve skin tone. Exfoliation will also help to get the newer skin cells to the surface so that the skin will appear younger and plumper.

Tip 3 – moisturise

Keeping hands well moisturised is key to keeping them in good shape. You should moisturise your hands every time you sanitise them to prevent the outer layers of the skin from losing natural oils. All this constant washing and sanitising can also dry your cuticles and nails out, so it is important to use a good quality cuticle cream rubbed into your nail plate and nail beds on a regular basis. This is best done after a shower when the cuticles and the nail plates are warm and can receive the additional moisture. You can then gently push the cuticles back at the same time.

Tip 4 – protection

continually throughout the day. Wear gloves for prolonged outdoor exposure and also when working with harsh detergents.

Tip 5 – correction

An evening application of a retinol cream on the back of the hands can assist greatly in the firming and plumping up of the epidermis and maintaining the skin’s condition. During the day, use an antioxidant like pure vitamin C to protect the skin from free radical damage.

Tip 6 – professional treatments

It is always a good idea to have periodic in-clinic or in-salon treatments on the hands and arms that cause temporary wounding to the skin to maintain it in good condition. Chemical peels, TCA peels, dermaplaning, microdermabrasion and laser resurfacing are all good treatments to consider. However, always remember to protect the skin afterwards with a good quality SPF. Preferably winter is a better time to do these treatments in order to prevent additional heat buildup and sun exposure on the epidermis. If your hands have lost their plumpness you could also consider visiting an aesthetic doctor for filler treatments to assist in returning the hands to their youthful plumpness.

Karen Ellithorne is the founder and owner of Spa & Salon Solutions and Milk Solutions. Email karen@ spaandsalonsolutions.co.za

Use a daily sunscreen on the hands (SPF 50) and reapply

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Know those nails

Joanna Sterkowicz chats to UK-based, internationally acknowledged nail expert, Marian Newman, about the importance of a solid theoretical knowledge in nails for any practicing nail professional

Have you had any South African nail techs enroll in your course? A few. I would love there to be more as my husband is half-South African and we have visited your beautiful country many times

THERE ARE SO MANY different nail and skin conditions, DIFFERENT LIFESTYLES and different physical HEALTH ISSUES. We all need to know and understand HOW TO WORK SAFELY and how to TROUBLESHOOT WHEN NECESSARY. You are one of the founders of Nail Knowledge. What exactly is it?

Nail Knowledge is a support and/ or learning resource for a qualification. In late January 2021, we launched The Essential Nail Professional Diploma. This online course is open to all – no previous experience in nails is required. We have deliberately not included any practical or application skills, as we believe that this is something that needs to be done in a classroom environment. Nail Knowledge is purely a fact-based theoretical course with no brand bias. The reasoning behind this is that very short courses have become so popular and the theory and understanding part of being a nail professional can be severely lacking. Also, nail professionals are usually more creative and not everyone finds the theory interesting, therefore it is difficult to learn. Nail Knowledge has set out to change this and we are positioned as a support to classroom based education. Many training providers are using it now and they usually require their students to have completed it, either before or during their courses, thus giving them maximum time with the ‘fun’ side of application and design.


How many graduates do you have to date? We have close to 1,000 now.

In the South African industry there seems to be a lack of knowledge among some nail techs of nail anatomy. Please comment on why it’s absolutely essential for nail professionals to be well-versed in this subject.

I think this lack of knowledge is the case globally! It is quite shocking how it is accepted. All of the beauty sectors should have a very good understanding of the human body in general and the part of the body they work on. We are providing a service that is potentially harmful to our clients and every individual is different. There are so many different nail and skin conditions, different lifestyles and different physical health issues. We all need to know and understand how to work safely and how to troubleshoot when necessary.

When setting up Nail Knowledge, you collaborated with Doug Schoon and Vitaly Solomonoff? Why did you choose these two individuals?

I’ve known Doug Schoon, a seasoned veteran in all aspects of research and product development, for almost all of my

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career (30+ years). So I have collaborated with him on several occasions and consider him to be the global expert on all things nails. Thus, Doug was the obvious choice and, fortunately, agreed. Vitaly Solomonoff is a qualified dermatologist and cosmetic chemist with a passion for nails. Again the perfect choice!

Nail Knowledge was recently endorsed by HABIA – what is the significance of this?

HABIA (Hairdressing and Beauty Industry Authority) is the standards setting body in the UK and the Industry Authority regulated by Government. They have a very rigorous process to decide if a course meets with their criteria and, happily, Nail Knowledge did. They are the highest authority on education and standards, so we decided they were the one we wanted to endorse our programme.

MOST OF the COVID protocols have ALWAYS BEEN IN PLACE, just not widely used! The ONLY DIFFERENCE DURING THE PANDEMIC has been SOCIAL DISTANCING and the use of VISORS OR GOGGLES. What sort of process did you have to go through to achieve HABIA endorsement?

There is a very long list of questions to be answered. Things like qualifications of the teacher (me, as I’m responsible for content), insurance, teaching methods, assessment and testing etc. This is investigated by an expert from HABIA and, eventually, approved (or refused).

Have you expanded the Nail Knowledge masterclass on Health & Safety to include COVID protocols?

to lack of teaching/ understanding. The only difference during the pandemic has been social distancing and the use of visors or goggles. Countries have different COVID requirements, so they were not included in the course.

You use a lot of animations in your online classes to illustrate what you are trying to teach. It must have been a mission to produce all these animations – please comment.

People have been learning using textbooks (including mine – ‘The Complete Nail Technician’ – now in its 4th edition), manuals and 2D diagrams. I have focused on the ‘psychology of learning’ and these above methods don’t provide all the learning styles that individuals need. So we animated them. To see something happening while listening and reading does hit all the learning styles. It was a very long process to produce these animations with, at various times, up to nine animators working on them. Good teaching practice requires continual checking of learning and reinforcement, which is why each Lesson has two or three Knowledge Points within it. These need to be correct before proceeding. Two attempts and that part of the video needs revising. At the end of every Lesson is a Knowledge Check. This can have several attempts but must be 100% correct before accessing the next Lesson. At the end of the course there is the exam. This requires 80% to pass. Two attempts of this are available which, if failed, is locked for two weeks. It provides a table of what areas were wrong and so encourages the student to return to these to gain a better understanding. Students have a lifetime access to the course so can revisit it at any time.

What made you want to become an educator?

Before joining the nail industry in the 1980s I had already studied behavioural therapy and NLP (Neuro-Linguistic Programming) and had several science qualifications. Then, because I have a scientific and enquiring mind, the theory behind the whole topic of nails plus creativity, application and structure, appealed to me so it was an obvious move. I gained my teaching qualification in 1995 and have written seven textbooks.

You have such a dazzlingly impressive CV in nails – what would you say has been the highlight of your career?

After so many years and working in every aspect of nails, to choose one highlight is almost impossible. A book was published about my career (‘Nailed It’) in 2018, which I love. I was awarded with the British Empire Medal in the Queen’s Birthday Honours List in 2020 for Services to the Beauty Industry during COVID. Next month, I will be awarded with a Lifetime Achievement Award by the UK nail industry. There are so many more highlights but these are recent and very special.

Most of the COVID protocols have always been in place, just not widely used! This is maybe due

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Giraffe print Take a walk on the wild side with Anelda Fouche’s fun, ‘animalistic’ nail art design

Step 1

Step 2

Step 3

Step 4

Step 5

Step 6

Apply a base layer and two coats of a nude colour (I used Lucianna from Evo gel), curing after each layer.

Repeat steps 2 and 3, creating small and big spots as you go. (If you are worried that the gel will run, cure between every few spots before continuing.)

Using a dark brown colour (I used Courtney from Evo gel), create a shape you are familiar with, like a square or circle. Do not cure.

Continue with your giraffe spots until you have filled the nail. Cure.

Use a nail art brush to manipulate the shape into a giraffe spot – rounding and lengthening corners.

Apply a second layer of the dark brown colour to the spots. Cure.

Step 7

Apply a layer of top coat (I used Suede Matte Top Coat from Evo gel) and cure. Finish the design with glitter and dark brown nails to complement the giraffe print.


Anelda Fouche has been a qualified nail tech for 17 years. She is the owner of Luv uR Nails salon and is a Bio Sculpture Educator in Durban.

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Know your chemicals Part 1 In the first of a series of articles, Sonette van Rensburg unpacks the chemistry behind nail products

nowing what ingredients are in your products and how they work is a vitally important topic and yet many feel it is not necessary to be knowledgeable about this. You may think, well what for? Well, think again if you want to be successful in this industry and would like to ensure that you have a long lasting and sustainable career as a nail professional. It’s time to realise just how essential it is for you to not only be highly skilled in what you do, but to also be fully knowledgeable about absolutely everything to do with your profession. Relying on just your skill is definitely not enough. Having the appropriate knowledge about your nail products, and understanding what makes them tick and how they affect you and your client’s nails, is just as important and goes hand in hand with all the other topics we have been covering in recent NailFile articles. These topics include misinformation in the industry, UV and LED nail lamp technology, allergies and skin reactions. Did you know that water is a chemical? It just goes to prove that not all chemicals are harmful; similarly not everything that is natural is necessarily good for you. There seems to be a senseless fear associated with chemicals. Remember that there are chemicals all around us – the clothes we wear and the food we eat and, in fact, even humans are made up of chemicals. A chemical is a substance which has a defined composition and can be in the form of a solid, liquid or gas. Some chemicals occur naturally while others are man-made or manufactured, like nail products.

Potentially hazardous

Photo by artem podrez from Pexels

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Although nail products and the chemical ingredients found in them are sometimes believed to be harmful and hazardous to your health, this is only true when you have no knowledge about them, potentially causing harm when they are misused, or you overexpose either yourself or your clients to them. There are certain ingredients in some products that are deemed or believed to be safer for use than others and exclude many of the so called toxic ingredients. What we need to know is that any nail product, no matter how good it is or whether it’s free from so-called toxic ingredients, could still be potentially hazardous and harmful when used in an unsafe and incorrect manner. However, this is completely in your control.




Make sure the products you use are properly and professionally labelled with an ingredient listing. If there are no ingredients listed, then I would stay away from the product. There’s a reason why you pay more for certain products with the correct labelling. We learnt in our last NailFile article that allergic reactions to products and specific ingredients aren’t always the easiest thing to identify as there could be underlying issues. You also can’t just thumb suck and say without a doubt that it’s a specific ingredient or chemical your client is allergic to, when it may well just be a reaction to repetitive product overexposure. This is something that can only be determined by a doctor or dermatologist, who would need to connect the dots between the symptoms and their cause. The only sure way for someone to find out whether they have an allergy to something in particular is to have a patch test done.

WHAT WE NEED to know is that ANY NAIL PRODUCT, no matter how good it is or WHETHER IT’S FREE from so-called TOXIC INGREDIENTS, could still be POTENTIALLY HAZARDOUS AND HARMFUL when used in an unsafe and INCORRECT MANNER. However, this is completely IN YOUR CONTROL. Therefore, knowing your product ingredients and also what your clients are possibly allergic to could safeguard you both and can be very useful information. It would allow you to then customise your client’s treatment accordingly and avoid using any products with those ingredients or allergens in them. This should be established at the start of your treatment through a thorough consultation with your client. Information should also be updated on a regular basis as the client’s health and medical conditions can change and could also be a probable reason for a reaction occurring.


Understanding the chemistry behind what makes your nail products work is particularly important when using different nail systems. Equally important is knowing why it’s not advisable to mix brands and systems with



one another, which could lead to service breakdown, as well as reactions and allergies, as discussed in the previous NailFile article. Having a good, sound knowledge will also not only protect you and your clients, but will also affect your overall performance and application, providing you with flawless results. This knowledge will ensure that you get the best from your products to provide services and treatments that will last for as long as they are meant to. Most service breakdown issues can be avoided with a proper understanding and application. Do the right thing and make the correct choices to be properly educated about how to use your nail products in the way they should be used. We will be covering more about the chemical composition of various nail products, their chemistry and how to use them, in our upcoming articles.

SDS (Safety Data Sheets)

So what exactly is an SDS? You may know them as MSDs (Material Safety Data Sheets), which are very similar. SDS, however, contain a little more detailed information about the product than the label does. These are documents prepared by a manufacturer of a potentially hazardous chemical, containing information about the chemical composition and properties of the product, which is vital for following safe working practices. A supplier must then in turn be able to supply you with these on request, for any of these types of products. So make sure you are able to obtain these should you need them. Therfore make sure you only buy your products from reputable suppliers, who you know are selling the real thing and who can back up their brand with the necessary information.

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the following link https://www.msdsonline.com/sds-search/

Even though NAIL PROFESSIONALS can protect themselves by WEARING MASKS, gloves and having good source CAPTURE VENTILATION AND EXTRACTION, this is not enough and they SHOULD STILL BE PARTICULARLY DILIGENT about the way these products ARE USED AND STORED to prevent their clients from BEING OVEREXPOSED to them


Furthermore, SDS are an important resource for workplaces and workers to learn more about the products being used and to outline the possible dangers, toxicity, safe handling, exposure, procedures for spills and leaks, storage guidelines and proper disposal information. They also tell users what to expect if the recommendations are not followed, how to recognise symptoms of exposure, and how to deal with any emergencies that might occur. SDS are constructed to conform to the UN’s GHS (Globally Harmonised System), which mandates the use of a standardised 16-section format, arranged in a strict order. With GHS adoption happening around the world, most current discussions of safety data sheets focuses on the GHS-aligned SDS format. You can find out more about SDS on

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COSHH (Control of Substances Hazardous to your Health)

What does COSHH mean exactly? These are regulations that are usually mandated by law in many countries and are put in place as a guideline for employers to ensure the safety of their employees in the workplace, when working with chemicals that are potentially hazardous. These serve to ensure that the correct and appropriate safety and protective equipment is provided for and measures are in place to protect against chemical exposure, thus reducing harm to workers. Even though nail professionals can protect themselves by wearing masks, gloves and having good source capture

DO THE RIGHT THING and make the CORRECT CHOICES to be properly educated about HOW TO USE your nail products in the way THEY SHOULD BE USED. ventilation and extraction, this is not enough and they should still be particularly diligent about the way these products are used and stored to prevent their clients from being overexposed to them. Major causes of many issues that occur are due to overexposure and unsafe working practices and therefore not only COSH regulations should be followed, but also COPs (Code of Practices) as well as SOPs (Standard Operating Procedures) should be in place, to guide nail professionals on how to use them properly and safely. This all leads us back to why knowing how to work with your nail products in the correct and proper way, as well as understanding the chemistry behind them, is essential to preventing any long term issues from occurring. Making the choice not to be knowledgeable can affect you as a nail professional, your business, your clients, the services and treatments you perform and most of all, your career. Keep an eye open for upcoming issues of NailFile for more informative articles on nail products and their chemistry. There are also many great resources out there about this topic, once again Nailknowledge.org, as well as Doug Schoon’s website (schoonscientific.com), Doug Schoon’s Brain and the many books that he has written on the subject. Remember that knowledge is key to a successful and sustainable career as a nail professional in this industry!

Sonette van Rensburg has been in the beauty industry for 30 years and has worked with, and educated for, many top professional brands. Email: sonette@eyelashemporium.co.za



Top Tech Talk

NailFile chats to salon owner and educator, Marianka Van Niekerk, about running a home-based business and about the importance of on-going training in the industry Your salon, Elysian Nails, is based in Richards Bay – are there many other salons in your area?

Yes, there are quite a few. Ever since COVID-19, I have constantly seen nail techs opening up their own salons.

When you LOVE WHAT YOU do it doesn’t become a job, IT’S YOUR PASSION and WHEN PASSION STEPS IN, your BEST SIDE COMES out to play. Is Elysian a home-based salon?

It is, yes. Being home-based makes it a lot easier for me to feed my glitter and nail art addiction. Furthermore, my clients feel much safer coming to me during the pandemic as they don’t have to be in crowded spaces with other clients waking in and out. The only contact they have in the salon is with me.


Has the salon changed in any way since you opened it eight years ago?

I used to work in a space so small that a table and chair could barely fit into it. Now I have wall-to-wall art shelves, gels and acrylics for my clients to choose from and it makes me so happy to see that what I have built has expanded so much that it awes most of my clients.

How did you come up with the name Elysian?

To me, Elysian just sounds so elegant and mystical. It comes from the phrase, ‘elysian fields’, which means paradise. And so my salon is my paradise, my escape from all the chaos going on in the world.

From a business perspective, what has it been like trying to survive the COVID economy?

Although it has had its challenges, it has been tougher on others. The only harsh moments Elysian Nails has had was during lockdown last year when we weren’t allowed to work. A few technicians tried nailing each other with the law – I actually had an incident where the police showed up at my

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house after receiving a tip saying I was taking on clients, which was quite embarrassing as I was still in my pyjamas. The police insisted I show them around to make sure I wasn’t hiding any clients. Luckily at that stage my COVID paranoia was huge, so I was only selling press-on tips, custom made to clients’ specifications.

need art to speak when we can’t and isn’t that what famous painters did? They took a blank canvas and created a whole new world. So why can’t we do the same with nails? The only difference is that we get to do it every day and the same canvas gets a new world every two to four weeks.

Do most of your clients request nail art?

Most of my clients do ask for nail art yes, especially when they know it will be something that they specifically want, be it extreme, dainty or just simple lines.

What is your favourite style of nail art to perform?

My absolute favourite nail art would definitely be freehand art. Hands down any day!

I believe that you view nails not as a job but rather as a passion with which you are obsessed?

I NEED ART to speak when we can’t and isn’t that WHAT FAMOUS PAINTERS DID? They took a blank canvas and created a WHOLE NEW WORLD. So why can’t we do the SAME WITH NAILS?

When you love what you do it doesn’t become a job, it’s your passion and when passion steps in, your best side comes out to play. I am obsessed definitely and it drives my husband a bit crazy somedays because I am always working on something new. At the moment I’m working on a project that is focused on nail files, which will include everything that a professional nail tech would need, from basic to advanced. The aim is to have it either published or on a book site.

How has business been since fears of the third wave of the pandemic set in?

I still have my regulars, so I haven’t really noticed that much of a dip, except for the start of June, which was a little quiet.

You describe yourself as ‘an all sparkle and unicorn kind of artist’. Please elaborate.

Well, I absolutely love glitter and I have had an obsession with nail art and unicorns from the start. But this description refers more to the types of nail art you can only find on social media or Pinterest, so this is a way for me to bring Pinterest to my clients.

I believe you regard nails as being small canvases for art?

When it comes to nails, doing art should be about expressing your clients’ personalities on their canvases (nails). For those who give me free reign to do whatever I want, I use their canvases to create oceans, galaxies and even their favourite cartoon characters. I

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Q&A At your salon you also offer silk and fibre – is there still much of a demand for this, given the dominance of acrylic and gel in the market?

A lot of my clients still do request silk and fibre, but not in the old fashioned way. Many clients work in health care and in businesses where they can’t have the showy colours. Silk and fibre is also very popular with my clients who have skin disorders, such as eczema, psoriasis and contact dermatitis etc. I love working with silk and fibre because it’s neat and extremely clean.

You have just become educator – what made you want to go down this path?

I see the way some educators train nail technicians who are new to the industry and then leave them to fend for themselves after they meet the basic course criteria. My goal is to start a training programme that’s on going, no matter what kind of nail tech you are. I always want to help. Let’s say that nail tech Hanna has done her acrylic course and ok great, now she’s qualified and knows all the basics about doing acrylic. Her first client goes well, the application is done perfectly but then the client’s nail breaks off because Hanna was taught to only work on one length and how to do the basic square shape. Her arch is perfect, the apex lovely, but this client wanted a stiletto and Hanna didn’t learn the stiletto, she was taught the square. And not everyone can learn from a YouTube video.

MY GOAL is to start a TRAINING PROGRAMME that’s on going, no matter what kind of NAIL TECH you are. I always WANT TO HELP.

When did you become a brand ambassador for Zsa Zsa Nails?

Some students do need one-on-one training and that’s where my project about nail files comes in. It will be a subscription course that anyone can attend whenever they feel they need to learn new tricks, tips and trends without having to do an entire course again. My aim is to help others and I want every nail technician to be confident in what they do and not just in whatever their basic training manual teaches them. This could potentially be good for our industry’s economy as well. Educators who are willing to help can also join this platform. I know there are some amazing educators in South Africa but sadly there are some who are not up to standard and some irresponsible ones as well. On-going training programmes are the way our industry can help each other get better at what we love. This way we will also learn to work together instead of bad mouthing other technicians and trying to break them down before they have even had a chance to learn properly. Having more technicians out there does mean there are going to be a few ‘cheap’ nail sets out there but that’s because training costs are, in some areas, sky high and they think that they can handle the basics on clients. If they can be taught the proper way, there will be less nail infections and nail damage and our product sales will increase as well. So, instead of finding a way to stop clients from going to these technicians, let’s rather support them by giving them better practical training, better theory training and work on training those educators who do not teach theory to not only teach them the practical, but both.

In mid-June last year and I couldn’t be happier. I was interested in working with a lot of other brands but my work got turned down or was just ignored. Lilian Lee of Zsa Zsa Nails saw more than just another nail tech, she saw my passion and talent.


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We hope you enjoyed this edition of Professional Beauty If you would like to view previous issues of the magazine please click HERE


Profile for Professional Beauty SA

Professional Beauty SA July 2021  

The only publication exclusively for the professional beauty and spa sector within Africa and is essential reading for all who work in this...

Professional Beauty SA July 2021  

The only publication exclusively for the professional beauty and spa sector within Africa and is essential reading for all who work in this...

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