WINTER WARMTH: TOP PICKS FOR RAMEN AND PHO IN SAN DIEGO

By Frank Sabatini Jr.

Chalk them up to the most savory best-selling soups of winter. We’re talking about ramen and pho, those richly flavored Asian broths achieved from extended simmering of meats and bones— or various veggies for vegan slurpers.

The two pottages share many soul-warming qualities, although there are a few distinct differences to keep in mind.

Japanese-inspired ramen, with roots tracing back to China, typically gives way to a lengthy list of ingredients beyond the various cuts of buckwheat noodles that go into it. Compared to pho, the meats found in ramen are chunkier. And they typically mingle with garnishments such as hard-boiled egg, seaweed, green onions, fish cakes, baby corn, bok choy, pickled ginger, chili paste, and more.

Pho is a Vietnamese staple. Its flavor is uniquely bright thanks to the combined forces of lime, mint, cilantro and basil. While steamy ramen speaks directly to chilly nights, the fresh accents in pho can advance your taste buds into feelings of summer.

After making the rounds throughout San Diego County to indulge in both dishes, we scored some favorites.

Katsu Cafe

7305 Clairemont Mesa Blvd., Kearny Mesa 858-560-8859; katsucafesd.com to the broth. Also notable is the tantan porkbroth ramen featuring spicy ground pork, green onions and a wide choice of add-ons.

Nishiki Ramen

8055 Armour St., Kearny Mesa 858-987-0222

1040 University Ave., Hillcrest 619-831-0101; nishikiramen.com

This Tokyo-inspired kitchen originally launched in Kearny Mesa before branching into The HUB within the heart of Hillcrest. Housemade ramen noodles set the stage for a wide variety of options, such as the Big Kakuni with unctuous pork belly; the curry vegetarian with slow-cooked organic tofu; and the “Notorious GGG,” which ramps up the garlic amid pork chashu, corn and green onions.

Nozaru Ramen Bar

3375 Adams Ave., Normal Heights 619-564-7183; nozaruramen.com noodles” option.

Ramen Inn

15731 Bernardo Heights Pkwy., Rancho Bernardo 858-524-6261; rameninn.com

This relative newcomer to Rancho Bernardo combines a modern vibe with rustic touches. Those with a hankering for hearty beef short rib ramen find they’ve come to the right place. In addition, the seafood ramen with scallops and shrimp in salt-kissed chicken shio broth is also a winner. The menu also extends to traditional tonkotsu and veggie ramen.

Tajima Ramen

3015 Adams Ave., North Park 619-756-7517

4681 Convoy St., Kearny Mesa 858-576-7244; tajimasandiego.com

Loads of chary, grilled chicken bestow heightened pleasure to Katsu’s popular Banzai ramen, which ranks high on our list alongside other tempting ramen choices such as seafood, chashu pork, spicy miso, and seafood. The tonkotsu broth used in the Banzai hits all the notes of marrow-rich creaminess resulting from the long, slow boiling of pork bones.

Izakaya Masa

928 Fort Stockton, Mission Hills 619-542-1354, izakayamasa.com

Unassuming from the outside and quaint on the inside, this intimate Japanese sushi house offers two types of ramen, which it executes very well. Both use tonkotsu pork broth as their base, and both come two fat slices of braised pork and a choice of noodles—udon or soba. The hakata ramen features fried garlic, green onions, dried seaweed and zesty red ginger. The shoyu ramen offers some of the same ingredients, plus spinach and naruto (white fish paste molded into coins).

Beshock Ramen

1288 Market St., East Village 619-310-5498; beshockramen.com

“Beshock” is derived from the Japanese word “bishoku,” which translates to “gastronomy” and “the beauty of food.” And given the fact the owner’s mother runs a Beshock kitchen in Japan, this industrial-chic restaurant lives up to its name. Non-carnivores will find joy in the vegan ramen, which harbors asparagus, cherry tomatoes, grilled corn, broccoli and a judicious touche of chili oil. White soy paste adds body

The “spicy heights” ramen is all the rage among those who prefer their pork broth elevated by chili spice. Served with a choice of pork belly or chicken chashu, the heat levels range from mild to “volcano.” (The medium level suits brave palates just fine.) Also popular is the “angry ape” ramen which uses chicken broth and spicy miso to capture a choice of proteins as well as baby bok choy, garlic chips and marinated egg.

Underbelly

3000 Upas St., North Park 619-487-9909

750 W. Fir St., Little Italy 619-269-4626; godblessunderbelly.com

Shivery nights bring substantial crowds to Tajima, which has an additional location in Kearny Mesa as well as others in the East Village and the College Area. Tonkotsu broth rules the day with its collagen and marrow-laced pork bone broth adorned with oodles of noodles, plus fried garlic, bean sprouts, tender corn, boiled egg and other savory goodies. The kitchen also makes a creamy chicken ramen and a devilishly spicy sesame ramen harboring thick slices of pork chashu. The broth is tinted red from the paste, powder and oil of chilies.

Pho Shank & Bone

2930 University Ave., North Park 619-458-9085; shankandbone.com

This locally founded restaurant with two locations has been credited with putting unconventional, hipster spins into ramen. The kitchen conjures up three types of broths: traditional tonkotsu; lobster-curry; and mushroom-based vegan. Meat choices include oxtail dumplings, adobo pulled pork, and chicken confit. Or if you’re yearning for a comforting bowl of simplicity, look no further than the “broth and

A contemporary atmosphere at Shank & Bone captures some of the best house-made pho in San Diego. High-quality meats such as sliced American wagyu and tender smoked brisket find their way into the restaurant’s soulful broths. A sizable bowl of short rib pho in beef broth is equally impressive. Ditto for the “pho kho,” which features a rich medley of beef shank, eye of round, and brisket mingling with flat pho noodles, cilantro, and house-made chili-soy sauce.