CBJ01 pp32-37 Polymer Clay PMC v2_Beading 24/03/2010 15:35 Page 33
POLYMER CLAY PASTA MACHINE Fold the strip in half across the width and roll through (always lead with the folded edge to avoid trapping air bubbles between layers). Set the pasta machine on a slightly thinner setting, then fold and roll the clay through 10-15 more times. Once no cracks develop on the folded clay, it is conditioned and ready to use. Bear in mind that previously conditioned clay will always need to be reconditioned before it is used again.
MIXING TWO CLAYS
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Using your hands, roll some of your conditioned clay into a ball. Place the ball onto a smooth work surface and shape it into a log by rolling back and forth with
CURING CLAY
SANDING AND POLISHING
MAKING A SIMPLE BULL’S-EYE CANE
You can simply buff your pieces with a piece of cloth for a satin finish. To give your pieces shine, wet-sand them using wet/dry sandpaper in 400-, 600- and 800grit. Dip the bead in water to help contain dust and wear a mask. Hand polish your pieces with a paper towel or a cotton cloth. For a glossier finish, apply a coat of water-based acrylic floor varnish with a brush.
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Clay work must be cured to harden. It is advisable to use a dedicated oven for this. Always follow the specific manufacturer’s recommendations on the oven and don’t rely on the in-built thermometer, which may not be accurate. Place the pieces into an oven-safe dish. Line it with polyester fibrefill or several layers of paper towels to avoid shiny spots from forming where a bead touches the baking dish. Remove your beads while hot and dip them in icy water. This will make them harder and increase their shine.
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TOP TIP
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Practise making your beads and mixing clays first – after all, practice does make perfect! It’s also handy to have a stash of beads ready for instant use
Clays can be mixed at the same time as you condition them. Overlay softened slices of different colours and run them through the pasta machine set at its thickest setting. Set the pasta machine on a thinner setting once the clays are mixing, then continue to roll them through. Fold the clay in half, and run it through with the folded edge leading. Repeat the process until you
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MAKING A LENTIL BEAD Making sure your smooth tile is clean, roll a ball of clay and position it on the tile. Place the glass sheet on top of the ball and, holding it
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obtain a uniform blend. To mix pastel colours, always condition the white clay separately, then add small amounts of coloured clay until you obtain the desired tint. Remember that strong colours can quickly swamp whites and light beiges.
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MAKING A LOG
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Choose two clays of different colours. Roll the core clay into a log and run the other colour of clay through your pasta machine to form a sheet. Place the log on the sheet and trim the clay each side (Fig 4). Trim the end of the band so that it is even (Fig 5). Wrap the band around the log. When the leading edge of the band meets its tail, press lightly to impress a line. Unroll the band and trim
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your hand (Fig 2). Using a glass sheet, continue to roll the clay back and forth to even out the log.
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Applying pressure and pushing the ends of the log inwards (Fig 3) will create an elongated cane shape.
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the tail just inside the line (Fig 6). Butt the edges and, using the glass plate,
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roll the cane evenly (Fig 7), checking that no air bubbles have formed in the process.
Slightly tilt the plate as you rotate to sharpen the sharp edge of the bicone (Fig 9). Once you have achieved a crisp edge all around the bead (Fig 10), hold the glass sheet parallel to the tile and rotate it
while pressing down in order to flatten the lentil (Fig 11). If you find that the clay is too soft at this point, reshape the lentil into a ball and store it in the freezer for a few minutes before trying again.
parallel to the tile, rotate it gently until the characteristic bicone shape starts to emerge (Fig 8). To avoid distorting the pattern on a bead, alternate the rotation between clockwise and anti-clockwise.
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