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HERALD A SEABOURN CLUB PUBLICATION | VOLUME 29 NUMBER 3

CROATIAN CUISINE FLÅM RAILWAY | MONTRÉAL’S BEST BOUTIQUES | WILD JUNEAU

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BREITLING BOUTIQUES BARBADOS • GRAND CAYMAN • BAHAMAS AUTHORIZED DEALERS: DIAMONDS INTERNATIONAL: ANTIGUA, ARUBA, BARBADOS, BELIZE, COSTA MAYA, COZUMEL, DOMINICAN REPUBLIC, JAMAICA, PUERTO RICO, ST. KITTS • KIRK FREEPORT: GRAND CAYMAN JOHN BULL: NASSAU

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The Breitling Surfer Squad Sally Fitzgibbons Kelly Slater Stephanie Gilmore

LAND

SUPEROCEAN

AIR

SEA

#SQUADONAMISSION

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I spent the day soaking up the sun. And at night, I shined.

Global Customer Service | Follow us on Facebook Member of the Dufry Group, a Swiss company established in 1865 and operating in over 60 countries. · Antigua & Barbuda · Aruba · Bahamas (Exuma, Freeport & Nassau) · Barbados · Grenada · Honduras (Roatan) · Mexico (Cancun, Cozumel) · · Puerto Rico · Santo Domingo · St. Kitts · St. Lucia · St. Maarten · Turks & Caicos (Grand Turk & Providenciales) · TAX FREE & DUTY FREE

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CONTRIBUTORS

DIANE BAIR AND PAMELA WRIGHT are a well-known travel writing team and authors of more than 30 guidebooks. Their work has appeared in a variety of publications including USA Today, Porthole Cruise Magazine, Yankee, National Geographic Traveler and the Boston Globe. They have traveled extensively, but their favorite vacation spot is home. Diane lives with her husband on Cape Cod, and Pam lives with her husband on the seacoast of New Hampshire.

ANTONY BOLANTE is a Philadelphia-based freelance writer, as well as a performer, video-editing trainer, and playwright whose theatrical credits include onomatopoeia: a hobo show with music; on the nOse: a multi-media, modern clown show; Liquid Courage: a DIY musical; and Egg Tooth. He recently earned an MFA from the UArts / Pig Iron Devised Performance Program.

SUSANNA KELLY was born and raised in Eagle River, Alaska, a small town just outside of Anchorage. She enjoyed a childhood full of outdoor play and as an adult is locked in an endless pursuit of adventure in the form of hiking, snowboarding, camping, fishing, and traveling. When she’s not getting lost in the wilderness you can find her speaking out about environmental issues or curled up with a good video game.

PETER KNEGO, an Oceanside, California– based cruise journalist and historian, spent years traveling to the scrapyards of Alang, India, to purchase furniture and artwork from dying cruise ships for his web site,  www.midshipcentury.com. He has sailed on over 200 cruises and has written hundreds of articles and blogs on the subject.

KEVIN REVOLINSKI has lived abroad in Italy, Panama and Guatemala, writing for Rough Guide guidebooks, Caribbean Travel & Life, Chicago Tribune, and Wisconsin State Journal, as well as a memoir, The Yogurt Man Cometh: Tales of an American Teacher in Turkey.

For advertising information, contact sales@ppigroup.com

Bill Panoff CHAIRMAN/CEO

Soren Domlesky DIRECTOR OF TECHNOLOGY

Corporate Headquarters: PPI Group 6261 NW 6th Way, Suite 100 Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309 USA Phone: (954) 377-7777 Fax: (954) 377-7000 Email: bpanoff@ppigroup.com Website: www.ppigroup.com

William P. Jordan III PRESIDENT

Patti Lankford EXECUTIVE ASSISITANT TO THE CEO

Sharon Cherry VICE PRESIDENT, BRAND SALES AND DEVELOPMENT

Linda Douthat SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, PUBLISHING

HERALD Bill Panoff PUBLISHER Linda Douthat ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER/ CREATIVE DIRECTOR Grant Balfour Phillip Crandall MANAGING EDITORS Chanel Samson COPY EDITOR Skip Anderson Caroline Geertz ART DIRECTORS Laura Roche SENIOR ART DIRECTOR Tammy Robinson AD SERVICES DIRECTOR Alexandria Geubelle CREATIVE ASSISTANT

Diane Bair Pamela Wright Antony Bolante Susanna Kelly Peter Knego Kevin Revolinski CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Deb Bottcher PROOFREADER Alamy AWL Images eStock Getty Images Ingram Images Peter Knego Minden Pictures Kevin Revolinski Superstock CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Susanne Kremer Huber / eStock Photo COVER IMAGE

Brett Grady DIRECTOR, GLOBAL SALES Richard Collins REGIONAL SALES MANAGER

Audrey Balbiers-Panoff CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Jose I. Martin CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Piero Vitale SENIOR VICE PRESIDENT, CORPORATE STRATEGY & FINANCIAL PLANNING Christina Hunting VICE PRESIDENT, DIGITAL MARKETING

Please address all correspondence to Seabourn Club Herald c/o PPI Group Corporate Headquarters. Printed in Canada ©2019 Panoff Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved. Seabourn Club Herald is published under contract to PPI Group. The contents of this magazine are protected by copyright. Reproduction, either in whole or in part, including but not limited to transmission by any means, in any form — digital, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise — is forbidden without express written permission from the publisher. The magazine assumes no responsibility for the safekeeping or return of unsolicited manuscripts, photography, artwork or other material. Electronic queries only will be acknowledged. Email to publications@ppigroup.com. Commentary and opinions expressed in Seabourn Club Herald are not necessarily those of the publisher, and the Seabourn Cruise Line and PPI Group are not responsible for any claims or offers made in advertisements appearing in Seabourn Club Herald. Seabourn may share some of your profile information with our affiliated companies, which comprise the World’s Leading Cruise Lines. You may limit our affiliated companies from marketing their products to you based on the information that we collect and share with them. Your choice to limit marketing offers from our affiliates will apply until you tell us otherwise. You may request that your information not be used in marketing efforts of our affiliates by contacting us at privacy@seabourn.com or Seabourn Cruise Line, Attn. Affiliate OptOut, 450 Third Avenue West, Seattle, WA 98119. For cruise reservations, call your travel agent or call Seabourn at (800) 929-9391.

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If it can survive being ejected from a plane, it can survive near enough anything. Should you treat your Bremont MB watch with respect? Not really. We don’t. We freeze it, we bake it, and we shake it. For hours on end. Then we shoot it out of a plane. Just to make sure it’s as tough as we claim it is. What’s more, it has been assembled and tested at our headquarters in Henley-on-Thames. So don’t worry about looking after a Bremont MB. It can look after itself. MB 10TH ANNIVERSARY LIMITED EDITION

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in this issue

HERALD 29.3

30 FEATURES

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MONTRÉAL’S BEST BOUTIQUES Paris may be the fashion capital of the world, but this French-Canadian city’s style is turning heads. By Diane Bair and Pamela Wright

WILD JUNEAU

A pristine wilderness surrounds Alaska’s capital city, in easy reach and ready to explore.

By Peter Knego

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ARCHITECT OF THE SULTANS One man shaped the way Istanbul looks today: Mimar Sinan. By Kevin Revolinski

FROM SHORE TO SUMMIT Riding the scenic Flåm Railway

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Top to bottom: Harricana par Mariouche; Ihsan Gercelman / Alamy Stock Photo; Sverre Hjørnevik/VisitFlam.com

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By Diane Bair and Pamela Wright

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SEABOURN CRUISE LINE

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#EffyMoments

EffyJewelr y.com FINE

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JE WELRY

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50 10 A LETTER TO CLUB MEMBERS from Richard Meadows DEPARTMENTS

12 BEHIND THE SHIELD Did you know?

14 ON THE HORIZON

The latest news from Seabourn

42 RIGHT STUFF

Fine things to want

44 GRAPES & GRAINS CRAFT ALASKA

The northern beer scene rises to the top. By Susanna Kelly

46 UNCORKED

CHANGING ALAKSA, ONE BEER AT A TIME

Brewer David McCarthy has great plans for the Great Land.

Top to bottom: Alan Copson / AWL Images; 49th State Brewing Company

By Susanna Kelly

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50 CUISINES OF THE WORLD CROATIAN CUISINE

Where cultures converge and flavors mingle By Antony Bolante

54 MINDFUL LIVING

HOW TO BE A HEALHTY HOLOBIONT

Being a generous host to the microorganisms within you has a wealth of benefits. By Dr. Andrew Weil

58 CLUB PICKS

FOUR ESSENTIAL JOURNEYS

An insider’s look at upcoming voyages

60 SEE/HEAR/DO

Seabourn suggests how to spend your down time.

64 VIEWFINDER Iquitos, Upper Amazon

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A WORD FROM OUR PRESIDENT

DEAR SEABOURN CLUB MEMBER, Welcome to the final Seabourn Club Herald of 2019. As the year comes to a close, our five ultra-luxury resorts at sea are celebrating their Holiday voyages in different corners of the world. Seabourn Odyssey’s guests are basking in the sun of the Caribbean. Seabourn Sojourn is likewise in the Caribbean, anticipating the beginning of Seabourn’s first World Cruise in six years. Seabourn Quest is at the far end of the world, dazzling guests with the splendors of Antarctica and remote South Georgia. Seabourn Encore’s guests are exploring beautiful New Zealand and Australia, while Seabourn Ovation cruises the orchid-scented shores of Vietnam, Thailand and Cambodia. Meanwhile, in Italy, construction of our new ultra-luxury expedition ship Seabourn Venture continues in preparation for her debut in June 2021. The destinations featured in this edition are similarly far-flung. The globetrotting pair of Diane Bair and Pamela Wright first dish the inside scoop on Montréal’s cutting-edge fashion designers, then turn to the pristine Norwegian fjordlands with an article about the breathtaking Flåm railway. Peter Knego takes us outdoors to play in the awe-inspiring glaciers that grace the wilderness surrounding Alaska’s capital Juneau. Kevin Revolinski identifies for us the Ottoman architect who first envisioned many of the minarets and domes that complement Istanbul’s unmistakable skyline. And Dr. Andrew Weil offers invaluable advice on how to nurture your personal microbiome to better maintain a healthy internal ecosystem. On behalf of everyone at Seabourn, I send you our very best wishes for a healthy, happy and prosperous New Year — and our earnest hope that we might have the pleasure of welcoming you back on board one of our ships again soon. Sincerely,

Richard Meadows President 10

SEABOURN CRUISE LINE

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#EffyMoments

EffyJewelr y.com FINE

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BEHIND THE SHIELD

Siglufjörður, Iceland

ON SEABOURN QUEST’S NEW, 15-DAY ICELAND, NORTH CAPE & THE MIDNIGHT SUN This innovative itinerary explores the majestic far-flung coasts, fjords and islands of Iceland and Norway at the height of the splendid, flower-filled boreal summer. An expert Ventures by Seabourn™ team will enhance this curated voyage, inviting you to an experience packed with enriching insights, rarely visited scenic splendors and optional Ventures by Seabourn Zodiak and kayak excursions. And of course, you will enjoy it all in Seabourn’s signature, sociable blend of unforgettable adventures and unparalleled amenities. 12

JUNE 24: PATREKSFJORDUR, ICELAND This small fishing village in Iceland’s rugged Westfjords was founded by an early Christian devotee of St. Patrick from the Hebrides. Impressive seabird breeding cliffs beckon at Latrabjarg. The cascading waterfalls of Dynjadi and farmer Egill Olafsson’s quirky lifetime collection of artifacts and antique aircraft at the Hnjotur Folk Museum are also nearby. JUNE 25: AKUREYRI, ICELAND Considered the capital of the Iceland’s north, Akureyri is a cultured city with a university, art galleries, museums and theater performances. In this season, its hills exhibit a profusion of brilliantly colored arctic wildflowers. Grímsey Island’s offshore basalt cliffs attract nesting puffins, auks, guillemots, razorbills, terns and kittiwakes. JUNE 26: SIGLUFJÖRÐUR, ICELAND Enter this fjord rimmed with high mountains on Iceland’s northernmost mainland region, renowned for its dramatic waterfalls and black sand beaches. At the Folk Music Museum, hear traditional Icelandic singing, children’s rhymes and a local dulcimer. A Herring Era Museum and equestrian tours on Iceland’s famous pony-sized horses are also available. JUNE 27-28: CRUISING THE NORWEGIAN SEA, CROSSING THE ARCTIC CIRCLE Throughout your relaxing days at sea, Ventures by Seabourn Expedition team members will offer expert insights during inspiring Seabourn Conversations presentations. They will also be on deck and in lounges to chat, interpret the passing scenery and identify birds, whales or other wildlife you may see as you luxuriate in Seabourn Quest’s heartfelt hospitality with a coterie of like-minded adventurers. JUNE 29: TROMSØ, NORWAY Situated 200 miles north of the Arctic Circle, this city straddling an island-dotted fjord is illuminated around the clock by the midnight sun during summer. Its climate is also milder than similar latitudes elsewhere, thanks to the warm Gulf Stream. The “City of Explorers” has mounted polar expeditions by Roald Amundsen and Fridtjof Nansen. Explore its inspiring Arctic Cathedral, Tromsø University Museum and the unique Polar Museum.

Seabourn (2)

EXPLORE THE ARCTIC SUMMER

JUNE 23, 2020: REYKJAVIK, ICELAND The northernmost national capital in the world is also one of the cleanest, greenest and safest cities on earth. Embark Seabourn Quest today and meet the officers, crew, your Ventures by Seabourn team members and the shipmates who will share your adventure.

SEABOURN CRUISE LINE

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JUNE 30: STORSTAPPEN ISLAND, HONNINGSVÅG, THE NORTH CAPE, NORWAY Storstappen’s towering cliffs support colonies of great cormorants, European shags, kittiwakes, razorbills and an impressive 100,000 puffins. Thousands of these birds circling overhead, creating an almost deafening sound with their cries and wingbeats, is an awe-inspiring sensory experience you will never forget. Later, arrive at Norway’s northernmost town Honningsvåg, our gateway for a visit to the North Cape, the northernmost point of continental Europe. In the evening, conditions permitting, Seabourn Quest will cruise by the Cape’s monumental cliffs under the midnight sun. JULY 1: ALTA, NORWAY Alta sits at the head of its namesake fjord in Norway’s northern Finnmark province. The ethereal aurora borealis inspired its soaring modern Northern Lights Cathedral. Walk beside thousands of UNESCO World Heritage petroglyphs nearby and visit the Rock Art Centre, or explore the scenic canyon of the Alta River south of town.

looming between forested slopes, supports a population of majestic whitetailed sea eagles. JULY 4-5: CRUISING THE NORWEGIAN SEA As Seabourn Quest sails from Norway back toward Iceland’s northern coast, discover more about the intriguing backgrounds and fascinating careers of your Ventures by Seabourn experts. They make memorable traveling companions, adding personal insights about places they have been, as well as the unusual ports that lie ahead. JULY 6: SKAGAFJÖRDUR, ICELAND Fortress-like, volcanic Drangey rises sheer from the sea, one of the three islands in Skagafjördur’s bay packed in summer with breeding birds. The prosperous surroundings are renowned for sheep and horse breeding and for superb choral singing. See the Glaumbaer Museum’s turf farmhouse and turf church, and perhaps pick up a sweater woven from unique Icelandic wool.

JULY 2: SORTLAND (VESTERÅLEN), NORWAY Sortland is a main hub for Vesterålen’s handsome cluster of bridge-connected islands, which offer activities including bird and seal safaris and year-round whale watching. Ventures by Seabourn options may include guided scenic Zodiac tours, kayaking and hikes. The area also boasts museums, scenic lighthouses and bridges, mountains and churches.

JULY 7: STYKKISHÓLMUR, ICELAND Forward-thinking citizens have remade this town for a new age, turning its old library into an innovative art installation. The fish-packing plant is now a restaurant, and Iceland’s first two-story house is a museum. Eiders breed annually on the bay and the Aedarsetur Islands Eider Center offers information on these ducks, old and new methods of eiderdown harvesting and examples of fine eiderdown products.

JULY 3: BODØ, NORWAY Kjerringøy near Bodø boasts a fascinating open-air museum of traditional buildings from around Norway. Depending on the tides, you may be impressed by the roiling waters of Norway’s largest tidal maelstrom, the Saltstraumen. The Norwegian Aviation Museum’s collection of aircraft is the largest in the Nordic countries. Nearby Svartisen (“Black Ice”) glacier,

JULY 8: REYKJAVIK, ICELAND Returning to Iceland’s sophisticated capital, bid farewell to Seabourn Quest’s officers, staff and crew and your expert Ventures by Seabourn team. You may choose to linger in this unique, vibrant city for a day or two, or travel homeward today, filled with shining, lasting memories of your Arctic summer adventure under the midnight sun.

Tromsø, Norway

SEABOURN CLUB HERALD

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ON THE HORIZON

EXPERIENCE ULTRA-LUXURY EN ROUTE — WITH SEABOURN PRIVATE AIR

INTRODUCING A NEW PRIVATE CHARTERED JET OPTION FOR EXCLUSIVE TRANSPORTATION TO AND FROM SEABOURN CRUISES ALL OVER THE WORLD.

“TIME IS A VERY VALUABLE LUXURY FOR OUR GUESTS, AND SEABOURN PRIVATE AIR OFFERS THEM ENHANCED LEVELS OF LUXURY AND CONVENIENCE TRAVELING TO OR FROM THE CRUISE OF A LIFETIME.”

Seabourn Private Air, unlike many jetcard or fractional options, provides comprehensive pricing in advance, aligning with Seabourn’s cruise fare structure. The program pricing includes services such as transfers, luggage service and catering. Paying by the aircraft rather than per seat means more passengers on board will reduce the per-person cost. Designed for guests who prefer the luxury and convenience of private jet travel to that offered by commercial carriers, Seabourn Private Air utilizes a global network of operators adhering to the highest international and U.S. Federal Aviation Administration standards, who consistently provide exceptional service on fleets of private jets in a range of sizes 14

and models. Seabourn Private Air service can accommodate groups of different sizes. The available aircraft vary from light charter jets seating five to eight passengers to mid-size jets for seven to eight passengers and larger planes with capacity for nine to 16 passengers. Prices vary according to requested aircraft type and itinerary. “As an ultra-luxury travel operator for three decades, we always seek new ways to enhance our guests’ experiences,” said Chris Austin, Seabourn’s senior vice president of Global Marketing & Sales. “Time is a very valuable luxury for our guests, and Seabourn Private Air offers them enhanced levels of luxury and convenience traveling to or from the cruise of a lifetime.”

SEABOURN CRUISE LINE

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Seabourn Private Air is offered at additional cost to cruise fares. Amenities and services of comprehensive Seabourn Private Air include: • • • •

• •

• •

Service at thousands of large and small airports serving private aviation and most international airports In-flight Wi-Fi internet service Private Valet luggage service In-flight catering featuring Seabourn’s food & beverage partners, including Regiis Ova caviar, K+M Chocolates, Montaudon Champagne and a range of complimentary spirits In-flight amenities by Seabourn’s signature fragrance partner, Molton Brown Complimentary transfers between guests’ homes and the nearest airport and onward to Seabourn’s cruise port* Cabin attendants (required on some aircraft), available by request** if not required Next port protection up to 1,000 miles from original destination

*Mileage limitations apply **For an additional charge

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DESIGNED FOR GUESTS WHO PREFER THE LUXURY AND CONVENIENCE OF PRIVATE JET TRAVEL

For more information about Seabourn Private Air contact your Travel Advisor or visit Seabourn.com

SEABOURN CLUB HERALD

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Harricana par Mariouche

MONTRÉAL’S

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Harricana par Mariouche

BEST BOUTIQUES

Paris may be the fashion capital of the world, but this French-Canadian city’s style is turning heads. By Diane Bair and Pamela Wright

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Left: Maison Pepin Patrick Pepin; Right top to bottom: Harricana par Mariouche; Denis Gagnon

riginal. Edgy. Glamorous. Avant-garde. Au courant. Fashion is flourishing in Montréal. Today, the world’s largest francophone city outside Paris has one of the world’s hottest fashion scenes. Of course, fashion has always been part of Montréal’s DNA — the city is home to three top fashion schools and the country’s most successful fashion companies. But an influx of young, diverse designers is bringing new energy and buzz to the city’s already sophisticated and free-spirited fashion scene. “It’s very exciting, what’s happening in the city right now,” says Carrie MacPherson, a Montréal fashion and luxury blogger and certified guide. “There’s a remarkable amount of fashion and design talent here, with fresh, innovative ideas. It’s bringing international attention to the city.” You’ll find a slew of high-end luxury shops and one-of-a-kind boutiques lining the city streets. Here are 10 of our favorites.

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Ssense Montréal

418, Saint-Sulpice St. ssense.com/en-us/locations/Montréal When this massively successful luxury e-commerce company opened its flagship store in Montréal, it was a game changer. The store, a five-story brutalist concrete structure encased in a historic façade, showcases edgy, esoteric fashions by top designers. There are small pop-up boutiques within the store — say a Louis Vuitton or Craig Green display — but most shoppers order items online and meet with a stylist at the store to try them on and select what they want to purchase. Every few months, the store hosts an exclusive collaboration with a well-known designer, complete with theatrical sets, special lighting and music. “It’s changed the way we do fashion, and has put Montréal on the map,” says MacPherson. After shopping, head up to the top-floor Ssense Café, a minimalistic space with grey concrete tables and glass ceiling, and dishes that are garnering good reviews from local diners.

Holt Renfrew Ogilvy

1307, Saint-Catherine St. W holtrenfrew.com

Harricana par Mariouche

416, McGill St. harricana.qc.ca When fashion designer Mariouche Gagne was a poor student in Milan, Italy, she designed a coat trimmed with pieces from her mother’s old fur coat. It won awards; people loved it, and an idea was born. Today, her fashion line, using recycled fur apparel, is a tribute to Canadian traditions and a commitment to sustainability. “Bring us your grandma’s fur coat and we’ll buy it, or remodel it into something new for you,” says Andrea Fitzpatrick, director of production and operations. “We save the lives of animals by recycling, and in turn you get something unique with sentimental value.” It doesn’t mean you have to come with fur; the bright store has gorgeous, recycled fur pillows, slippers, blankets, sweaters, jackets and hats adorned with fur accents. They also have a nice selection of hats from longstanding, Montréal-based Canadian Hat.

Maison Pepin

378, Saint-Paul St. W thepepinshop.com Is there anything Lysanne Pepin can’t do? She’s a painter and photographer; and a fashion, furniture and houseware designer. She makes handbags and chef aprons, and hosts pop-up brunches and workshops in her cozy, Moroccan-style courtyard. Everything is for sale at her expansive, bright shop in Old Montréal, jam-packed with things you don’t need, but really, really want: a stylish couch pouch to hold the remote controls, a pepper mill made from wood logs, a lambswool throw. Duck into L’Amour du Pain, a small café tucked in the back of the shop, to buy a baguette (voted the best in Québec by the Association des Boulangers Artisans of Québec). A few doors away is Espace Pepin (350 Saint-Paul St., W), with a melting pot of fashion pieces from designers around the world.

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When this luxury-fashion superstore (a merger of Holt Renfrew and Ogilvy) is finished (slated for March 2020), it will be the largest of its kind in Canada. The 250,000-square-foot store, located next to the recently opened Four Seasons Hotel, will offer one-stop shopping for luxury brand lovers, featuring most of the top designer labels. This neighborhood, known as the Golden Square Mile, is fast becoming a luxury-fashion enclave, anchored by the new Holt Renfrew Ogilvy and surrounded by independent boutiques.

Denis Gagnon

170, Saint-Paul St. W denisgagnon.ca “He’s quite a character,” says MacPherson of Denis Gagnon, one of Canada’s most recognized designers. “You’ll see him with his man-bun and big, blackframe glasses riding his bike down the streets of the city.” Known for his buttersoft black leather pieces, you’ll also find flowy, avant-garde, haute couture fashions on the upper level of his sleek, two-floor shop in Old Montréal. Browse the ground floor for affordable, everyday wear.

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Nathon Kong

372, Saint-Catherine St. W www.nathonkong.com

Nathon Kong Instagram (2)

Damian Siqueiros Photography / The Art Within the Suit, 2017 (2)

Besides an impeccable fit and a high-quality design, you’ll get a story behind the suit that Nathon Kong designs for you. Kong uses the works of local artists promoting social impact to design the lining of each suit, numbering each to give credit to the artist. You’ll look good, and feel good, too.

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LESS STRESS, better life

TRAVELER COLLECTION Dare to explore the journey within you with the Traveler Collection. Embedded with our unique Natural Frequency Technology®, which resonates with the body, it strengthens your bio-magnetic field to help you feel less stressed and improve your overall wellbeing.

Discover your wellbeing at philipstein.com

ANTIGUA – Diamonds International ARUBA – Diamonds International, Kay’s Fine Jewelry BAHAMAS (Nassau) - DI Watch & Design, Diamonds International, Kay’s Fine Jewelry BARBADOS – DI Watch & Design, Diamonds International, Milano Diamond Gallery BELIZE – DI Watch & Design BERMUDA –Diamonds International CABO SAN LUCAS – DI Watch & Design COSTA MAYA – DI Watch & Design COZUMEL – DI Watch & Design, Diamonds International, Forum Shops CURAÇAO –Freeport Jewelry & Gift Shop, Diamonds International DOMINICAN REPUBLIC- Diamonds International GRAND CAYMAN – Island Time, Diamonds International, GRAND TURK- Diamonds International, Mark Henry Boutique GRENADA – Milano Diamond Gallery JAMAICA (Falmouth) - Philip Stein Boutique JAMAICA (Ocho Rios) - Jewels & Time, Diamonds International JAMAICA (Shoppes of Rose Hall) - Jewels & Time KEY WEST – Diamonds International PUERTO RICO – Blue Diamond, Diamonds International PUERTO VALLARTA – Diamonds International ROATAN –Diamonds International ST. KITTS – Diamonds International, Kay’s Fine Jewelry, Gold Mine ST. LUCIA – Diamonds International ST. MAARTEN –Diamonds International, Majesty Jewelers, Joe’s Jewelry International ST. THOMAS – Philip Stein Boutique, DI Watch & Design, Diamonds International, Bliss Jewelers, Grand Jewelers TORTOLA – Diamonds International

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YOU’LL FIND A SLEW OF HIGH-END LUXURY SHOPS AND ONE-OF-A-KIND BOUTIQUES LINING THE CITY STREETS.

Speakeasy Chair in black from Maison Pepin

Montagne Boutique

2125 Rue de la Montagne www.montagne2125.com Black on black is the theme of this small, she-cave boutique, with locally designed women’s fashions. It’s a well-curated selection, focusing on slightly edgy, sexy designs. There’s also a small selection of jewelry and shoes, and an in-the-know, friendly staff.

Maison Marie Saint Pierre 2081 Rue de la Montagne www.mariesaintpierre.com

One of Montréal’s most successful designers, Marie Saint Pierre combines art and function in her extensive collections. On a recent visit to her flagship store, we were intrigued by her dresses and tops in double-knit scuba fabric (think: neoprene for fashionistas), drapey vegan-leather tunics, and jersey and scuba dresses.

Judith & Charles

2090 Rue de la Montagne www.judithandcharles.com “There was a line out the door and down the street,” says Sinath Yip, store manager. That was the day after Meghan Markle wore a Judith & Charles black tuxedo dress to a showing of Hamilton in London. The publicity helps, of course, but this dynamic duo has been a favorite with Montréalers for some time. This is the place for classy and feminine career wear, including streamlined suits and dresses.

Maison Cloakroom

Need a new custom-tailored suit or shirt, a haircut and a drink? You’ve come to the right place. The designers at this custom menswear shop use their own patterns and digital technology to get the right fit and look. Fittings are not only based on measurements, but angular adjustments that can be manipulated 61 ways. In the back, you’ll find a cool little barbershop, and in front, a “hidden door” leading to a speakeasy-style bar. (Overhead video cameras alert the doorman, who will come out to greet you.) There’s no cocktail menu; instead bartenders craft artisan drinks based on your personal taste preferences.

Meghan Markle in a Judith & Charles black tuxedo dress

Maison Pepin; 2018 Getty Images

2175 Rue de la Montagne www.thecloakroom.com.au/montreal

FEATURE VOYAGE

Seabourn Quest calls on Montréal during THE 11-DAY CANADA & NEW ENGLAND FALL FOLIAGE sailing Montréal to Boston departing on August 31; October 4, 2020.

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800.CDP.1837

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Aruba | Grand Cayman | Cozumel‒Forum Shops / Puerta Maya Nassau, Bahamas | Roatan | St. Kitts | St. Thomas | St. Maarten

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A pristine wilderness surrounds Alaska’s capital city, in easy reach and ready to explore. By Peter Knego

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T

hanks to its status as state capital, its dramatic setting and its proximity to numerous glaciers, Juneau is one of the most-visited cruise ports in Alaska. Having experienced Juneau several times, we made a pact while

planning our latest Alaska cruise on Seabourn Sojourn to avoid the usual tourist haunts. Taking this into account, we chose to leave the city altogether and explore Taku Glacier by helicopter and airboat on a Seabourn shore excursion. It promised the most exhilarating escape and offered two interesting means, one by air and the other by water, to Thanks to a lingering fog, our excursion was almost dashed — but once the “all clear” was issued for the chopper to fly, a van drove us out of downtown and across a bridge to the NorthStar Helibase on Douglas Island. We were given a detailed safety briefing and issued rain suits, inflatable life vests and glacier-grade spiked boots before being escorted single file to a sporty blue chopper. With assignments made according to body weight, I lucked out with the coveted front seat and tried to hide my grin from the others as we all buckled up.

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Left: Peter Knego; Right; SuperStock

experience the Last Frontier.

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Taku River Valley

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OUT TO THE NATURAL WORLD Our gallant helicopter gradually lifted its way over the Gastineau Channel, offering a fleeting view of Juneau and its port before flying over the densely forested and snow-streaked ridges that loomed beyond. Through noise-reducing headphones, we listened intently as our pilot pointed out various landmarks and instructed us to keep an eye out for mountain goats and bears. The unfolding tundra, emerald-green ponds and Arctic streams were a thrill to the senses. Our northeasterly course followed a ruggedly beautiful alpine canyon that gradually descended to the Taku Inlet. Emanating from the impossibly massive, cloud-covered Juneau Ice Field, first the Norris Glacier and then the much larger Taku (the Tlingit word for “salmon”) came into view. Words and images simply cannot do justice to the scope of Alaska’s most dense and sprawling glacier that is in parts up to 4,800 feet deep, 36 miles

Clockwise: Mike Masino; Peter Knego; Mike Masino; Alan Murphy / BIA / Minden Pictures; Opposite: Mike Masino

AS WE CRUISED BACK TO THE POINT, WE WERE TREATED TO A SMALL CONVOCATION OF BALD EAGLES, ONE WITH A FRESHLY CAUGHT SALMON IN ITS TALONS.

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WORDS AND IMAGES SIMPLY CANNOT DO JUSTICE TO THE SCOPE OF ALASKA’S MOST DENSE AND SPRAWLING GLACIER.

Taku Glacier

long and 3.7 miles wide at its face. Until very

needs three inches of water beneath its keel to

caught salmon in its talons, gliding through the

recently, Taku has actually been advancing,

operate and that we would make periodic stops

Tongass forest treetops off our port side.

versus all the other glaciers in the ice field

so he could point out things of interest. Once

that have retreated. Even the pilot seemed

we settled in and donned earplugs, we were

thrill of the afternoon, a short ride to the top of

awestruck as the tiny shadow of our chopper

racing off at over 30 miles per hour, generating

Taku for a 10-minute walkabout. Those spiked

crossed its toffee-colored ridges streaked with

walls of spray on either side of us like an

boots came in handy as we crunched our

rocky rubble and piercing blue pools of water.

oversized Jet Ski.

way over to a pristine blue pool where even the

While just a few miles away from the hustle and bustle of Juneau, we were witnessing Alaska at its most majestic. All too soon, we landed at Taku Point, a tiny

We returned to the chopper for the final

deposits of glacial dirt looked clean. Hundreds, A LANDSCAPE BEYOND DESCRIPTION En route to the western flanks of Taku,

maybe even thousands of years old, the water was pure enough to drink. Farther along, we stood at

which like most tidewater glaciers has a

the edge of a crevasse that was about 40 feet deep

outcrop on the Taku River that consists of a

towering vertical face, we buzzed a massive

and growing — in other parts of the glacier, many

rustic home and a wooden helipad/pontoon

chunk that had just broken free that morning,

are hundreds of feet deep. There was just enough

dock combo. For the second part of our tour,

exposing a large section of Taku’s deep

time to pose for a few photos before we climbed

we exchanged helicopter vests for airboat

blue insides. The airboat then arced back,

back aboard for the return flight.

gear and were led to the awaiting craft, which

zigzagging its way into the silty shallows of

resembled a skiff attached to a giant eggbeater.

the Taku River and then onwards to the more

vistas were revealed in a palate of

A completely new experience for us, airboats

expansive eastern terminus of the glacier.

mesmerizing colors and shapes. With the

are flat-bottomed craft propelled by a powerful

Because there is no deep water on that side,

distant clouds now gone, we marveled at the

engine utilizing an aircraft-type propeller

Taku gradually melts into the river, where we

view over the seemingly endless Juneau Ice

(the “eggbeater”). The prop generates such a

were able to safely get within touching distance

Field. Soon, we were retreating back over that

forceful column of air behind it that it can push

of its icy remnants. Later, as we cruised

marvelous glacial canyon and those forested

the craft forward at high speeds.

back to the point, we were treated to a small

ridges to Juneau where Seabourn Sojourn was

convocation of bald eagles, one with a freshly

waiting for us.

The captain explained that the boat only

Once more, Alaska’s wild and unspoiled

FEATURE VOYAGES

Seabourn Sojourn calls on Juneau during the 7-DAY JUNEAU TO VANCOUVER* sailing departing on June 19; July 24; August 7, 21; September 25, 2020 7-DAY VANCOUVER TO JUNEAU* sailing departing on June 12; July 17, 31; August 14; September 18, 2020 14-DAY ROUND-TRIP JUNEAU OR VANCOUVER* Combination Cruises departing on June 12; July 17, 24, 31; August 7, 14, 2020 *Itineraries vary slightly Taku Glacier Helicopter Landing & Airboat Adventure excursion is available on select sailings. For more information on applicable voyages visit Seabourn.com SEABOURN CLUB HERALD

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ARCHITECT OF THE SULTANS One man shaped the way Istanbul looks today: Mimar Sinan. By Kevin Revolinski Right around the same time that Michelangelo was redesigning the plan for the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica, one of the world’s greatest architects was reshaping Istanbul and the Ottoman Empire with his works. At least 314 projects — and a probable 163 others — were built under the direction and according to the designs of Sinan. Often referred to as Mimar (Architect) Sinan, his work would define the height of the Ottoman Empire.

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Haseki Hürrem Hamam baths

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Left: 2017 Anadolu Agency / Getty Images (2); Right: Murat Taner / Getty Images

B

orn in the early 1490s near Kayseri in modern Turkey, Sinan came from a Christian family but at the age of 14 was conscripted to be a janissary. These elite soldiers were Christian sons taken as slaves and required to convert to Islam to serve the sultan in Istanbul. Unlike typical slaves, janissaries were paid and had a great deal of social respect. As a janissary, Sinan gained important experience, especially in carpentry and waterworks. This was in an era when the Ottomans were expanding their empire in all directions and as such, Sinan was involved in many military campaigns. Sinan advanced through the ranks, supervising the construction of a stone bridge in Bulgaria in 1529, and restoring many shrines along the military routes. Praise from a superior reached the right ears and helped Sinan secure the position of Court Architect in 1537 — even though he had never worked within that office. Legend has it he built a wooden bridge in 13 days that could support the great weight of the army and its equipment during the 1538 Moldovan campaign. But his first big commission was a külliye, a mosque complex for the sultan’s chief consort and legal wife, Haseki Hürrem, in 153839. The Haseki Sultan Complex consists of a mosque, hospital, kitchen and two schools. Sinan served under three sultans: Süleyman the Magnificent (1520-1566), Selim II (1566-1574) and Murad III (1574-1595). His constructions changed Istanbul’s skyline, and remain a part of that skyline today. As an architect he didn’t merely design buildings, but rather entire complexes that showed his eye for topography. He has been called the Euclid of his time for his mastery of geometry. No one knows for sure how he managed to learn all the engineering behind his works, other than through observation in his travels and just plain experience. But one thing surely inspired him: the magnificent Byzantine basilica, Hagia Sophia, commissioned by Emperor Justinian and

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completed in 537 C.E. Even the Muslim Turks who finally conquered Constantinople in 1453

SINAN’S WORKS Many of Sinan’s works have been lost to

Süleymaniye Mosque Completed in 1557, the largest of Sinan’s

were left breathless at the architectural wonder.

demolition, disrepair or renovations, but several

square-based mosques features two semidomes,

Here, he could observe the great open space

of his finest works remain open to visitors. The

a design feature similar to Hagia Sophia. The

within and gain knowledge of structural support

mosques are the most obvious, but many of his

lower level around the dome features varying

for such a space. Certain of Sinan’s building

other constructions — tombs, bridges, aqueducts,

sizes of cupolas to repeat that pyramid effect

elements, especially his two larger mosques

bathhouses and guesthouses — remain today,

seen in Sehzade. Two minarets of 76 meters (249

named for two of the sultans he served, show how

still shaping the city’s space five centuries later.

feet) and two of 56 meters (184 feet) stand at

he tried to outdo the great church and how he learned progressively from his own designs. The growing empire — it reached its maximum size in Sinan’s century — meant

the corners of the courtyard with the taller ones

MOSQUES

closer to the mosque and showing three balconies

Sehzade Mosque

while the shorter structures only bear two. Sinan

When Süleyman’s son and heir Mehmed

gave the three-story façade of the courtyard wall a

bigger budgets for building projects as well as

passed before his time in 1543, the sultan turned to

tall, palatial look, unlike any of his other mosque

more patrons who could commission works. Each

Sinan for a mosque dedicated to the prince. Sinan

complexes. So magnificent was this project

sultan commissioned his own mosque, and Sinan,

improved upon his design for the Mihrimah Mosque

that the sultan even let his architect lead the

in turn, designed each of their tombs. But the

across the Bopshorus in Uskudar. The central

procession to its opening.

royal architect also ventured outside Istanbul.

dome is surrounded by four half-domes with

Sinan went on the hajj in 1583, but returned

subtle supporting piers rather than columns, which

Selimiye Mosque

to finish at least two more mosques in his 90s.

magnifies the impression of the open space. The

In 1588, he passed away in his mansion next to

colonnades along two façades of the mosque also

Selim II in 1568 and took seven years to complete.

his finest work, Süleymaniye Mosque. His tomb

conceal the building’s supporting buttresses, and the

Located in Edirne, the second city of the empire at

stands right outside the complex walls.

entire structure resembles a pyramid in its layout.

that time, it’s often considered Sinan’s masterpiece.

This mosque was commissioned by Sultan

Left: 2017 Anadolu Agency / Getty Images (2); Right: Murat Taner / Getty Images

Selimiye Mosque

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Süleymaniye Mosque

The interior space is defined by a colossal

Süleymaniye Mosque

custom of the time, laid out on a north-south

arches are smaller and narrower, making the

SO MAGNIFICENT WAS THIS PROJECT THAT THE SULTAN EVEN LET HIS ARCHITECT LEAD THE PROCESSION TO ITS OPENING.

space feel even more immense.

Completed in 1577 — three years after

at Büyükçekmece. The bridge consists of four

central dome that measures 31.22 meters (102.4 feet) in diameter and 42.25 meters (138.6 feet) in height, and is perforated with carefully arranged tiny windows allowing in sunlight. Sinan used an octagonal, rather than square, base to support the dome, lending the space a complicated geometry. The surrounding eight

TOMBS Hürrem Sultan gave Sultan Süleyman six children. When she died in 1558, Sinan designed her tomb. Her name meant “cheerful one,” so within, Sinan had special Iznik tiles installed depicting the Garden of Paradise. The octagonal exterior masks a 16-sided interior under the central dome. When the sultan himself passed in 1566, Sinan again designed a tomb, one which consists of an

the death of its occupant — the tomb of

access. Today, they’re open to the public.

Sultan Süleyman Bridge Erecting a military bridge in 13 days might have built Sinan’s reputation, but his finest bridge is the only one that bears his name — literally, inscribed in the stone like an artist’s signature. The 28-span, 630-meter (2,067-foot) stone bridge crosses a shallow lake west of Istanbul sections, punctuated by three islets. Legend has

Sultan Selim II lies within the Hagia Sophia

it a near drowning of the sultan during a crossing

compound and is Sinan’s most beautiful

there prompted its 1567 construction.

mausoleum. The tiles inside and on the two panels at the entryway are beautiful. The sultan shares the space with 42 sarcophagi for

Maglova Aqueduct Sinan built this structure in 1563 after his previous design succumbed to a flood. It stands

his various family members.

about 10 miles north of Süleyman Mosque. As

BRIDGES, BATHS AND BEYOND Haseki Hürrem Hamam Built on the original site of the baths for the

if to further establish Mimar Sinan’s relevance today, his aqueduct still carries water to Istanbul. Sinan built a strong foundation for

octagonal-base dome above a matching portico

Hagia Sophia community, this newer design

Ottoman architectural traditions, which spread

and abundant malakari trowel work, a Turkish

was commissioned by Sultan Süleyman’s chief

across the Eastern World. His apprentices went

plaster-relief technique that dates back

consort and legal wife, Hürrem, and completed

on to help build two of the world's most famous

centuries before the Ottomans. Both tombs

in 1556. The baths are divided symmetrically

buildings, Istanbul's Blue Mosque and the Taj

stand within the sultan’s own mosque complex.

for male and female patrons and, in Turkish

Mahal in India.

FEATURE VOYAGE

Seabourn Odyssey calls on Istanbul during THE 7-DAY AEGEAN & TURKISH TREASURES SAILING ROUND-TRIP PIRAEUS (ATHENS) departing on May 16; June 13; August 8; October 3, 2020.

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Left: Kevin Revolinski (2); Right: Anna Serrano / Sime / eStock Photo

Selimiye Mosque with statue of architect Mimar Sinan

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FROM SHORE TO SUMMIT Riding the scenic Flåm Railway By Diane Bair and Pamela Wright

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T

he view from our window was

and squirmy, jumping from one side of the

the staggering beauty of Western Norway’s

spectacular. Thick forests were

train to the other to catch the best view. It was

fjord landscape: soaring mountains, deep

decked out in the fiery colors of fall,

an unnecessary apology; we were practically

glacier-carved valleys, plunging waterfalls,

butting up to golden-hued rolling valleys and

doing the same, rubbernecking for a look and

shimmering cascades.

farmlands. High, snow-capped mountain peaks

reaching for the best camera angle.

poked into a blue sky, and silvery waterfalls tumbled down the steep slopes.

The train whistle blew and soon the

We were riding the “little green train,” the famed Flåm Railway (pronounced “Flom,”

view was gone; we were in darkness,

and also called “Flåmsbana” in Norwegian).

rumbling through a tunnel carved out of

The hour-long ride connecting Flåm to Myrdal

mother said, apologizing for her three excited

the mountainside. But it wasn’t long before

is considered one of the most beautiful train

children. Stair-stepped in age, they were loud

the scene re-appeared, confronting us with

rides in Europe, traveling a steep, narrow

“I’m sorry. It’s our first time,” a young

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Sverre Hjornevik / visitflam.com (3)

Stegastein

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valley, from the end of Aurlandsfjord to the Hardangervidda plateau, the highest mountain plateau in northern Europe. It climbs from sea level to nearly 3,000 feet, passing through 20 tunnels and over numerous bridges. STARTING AT THE FJORDS The journey began in Flåm, known as the “small village with grand surroundings.” It’s nestled in the innermost corner of Aurlandsfjord, a tributary of the massive Sognefjord, the deepest and second longest fjord in the world. We poked around the picturesque fishing village, and went to the Stegastein, where we had bird’s-eye views of the deep and narrow fjord from a viewing platform that extends nearly 100 feet out from the side of the mountain. Before boarding the train, we popped into the Flåm Railway Museum, where we learned about the engineering and construction of the railway. Several small villages and towns are nestled along the shores of Aurlandsfjord, and the Flåm Railway, part of the Bergen Railway linking Oslo to Bergen, was the key to connecting them to the rest of the country. The building of the railway that would later be considered a technical engineering marvel began in 1924. It took 16 years to build, and remains one of the steepest standard gauge railway lines in the world, with more than 80 percent of the journey running on a gradient of 5.5 percent. That means the rail line rises

Top: Sverre Hjornevik / visitflam.com Bottom: Ingram Image

over three feet in height for every 60 feet or so it travels. Twenty tunnels were carved out of the mountainside, 18 of them by hand, requiring around 150 hours of labor to create just one three-foot section of tunnel. The Nali Tunnel, measuring more than 4,200 feet, took 11 years to build.

SUN-DAPPLED WILDFLOWER FIELDS, NOW COLORED AUTUMN GOLD, SLID INTO VIEW, JUXTAPOSED AGAINST DISTANT JAGGED PEAKS.

“Can you imagine building this rail line? And back then most of the work had to be done by hand,” our guide told us as we left Flåm Station. “It’s so steep that we need SEABOURN CLUB HERALD

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THE WATERFALL CRASHED OVER A STEEP CLIFF, PLUNGING MORE THAN 700 FEET, SENDING OUT A BLANKET OF MISTY SPRAY. two locomotives, one in the front and one in the back, and a special brake system.”

CLIMBING FROM THE COAST We saw colorful snug villages tucked into

woods. He later admitted that she was actually one of several Norwegian National Ballet school

The train chugged slowly through bright

the walls of the steep ravine, and farmhouses

green fields where cows grazed, leaving Flåm

nestled on the mountainsides. And there was

and its red and white houses behind. Sun-

darkness as we moved through the impossibly

to Myrdal at 2,841 feet elevation, the air

dappled wildflower fields, now colored autumn

carved tunnels. The rail ride was a study in

grew cooler. The bald-topped mountains

gold, slid into view, juxtaposed against distant

contrasts: from kaleidoscope color to brown-

surrounding the isolated station village, set at

jagged peaks. From the train we could see

black, from sea level to mountaintop.

Norway’s “rooftop,” were dusted with snow.

bicyclists cycling The Rallarvegen, Norway’s

The train stopped several times to pick up

students hired to play the part. Our windows were open, and as we climbed

We disembarked and joined the small group of

most popular biking trail, switchbacking

passengers in small villages along the way.

passengers who were waiting to change trains,

through the gorge, following the train tracks

More than halfway up, the conductor stopped

going on to Oslo or Bergen or stops in between.

in some places. Also known as “the Navvies’

the train near a platform overlooking the mighty

While the Flåm Railway is a popular tourist

Road,” (the word rallar is Norwegian for

Kjosfossen waterfall, and invited passengers

attraction, it’s also well traveled by commuters.

“navy”) the steep, dirt road was used for

to step out for a closer look. The waterfall

transporting materials during the building of the

crashed over a steep cliff, plunging more than

Café Rallaren, and chatted with hikers and

Oslo–Bergen railway line more than 100 years

700 feet, sending out a blanket of misty spray.

bikers setting off to explore the Hardangervid-

ago. It was turned into a cycling track in 1974,

While snapping photos, we spotted a woman

da plateau.

and is well known for its scenic views — and

with long, flowing hair, dressed in red, walk out

the 21 hairpin turns that run from Vatnahalsen

of the forest onto the top of a nearby sea cliff.

The three kids, our train-traveling buddies,

to Kårdal, the highest farm in the Flåm valley.

We watched as she began to swing and sway to

ran to the front of the line. “I’m sorry,” their

We could see the steep, zig-zag trail from our

a Norwegian folk song. It’s Huldra, our guide

mom offered. “They’re excited.” No apology

window, dipping down the mountain slopes and

told us, a forest nymph who, according to Norse

necessary. We were all excited for the steep,

through the valley.

mythology, lures passing men into the deep

scenic descent back to sea level.

We grabbed coffee and snacks at the rustic

FEATURE VOYAGE

Seabourn Ovation calls on Flåm during THE 14-DAY NORTH CAPE & MAJESTIC FJORDS sailing Koge (Copenhagen) to Copenhagen departing on July 4, 2020. 40

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“Alle ombord!” the conductor called.

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FACTS ON THE FLÅMSBANA NORWEGIAN WORDS TO KNOW ON THIS TRIP

All aboard! ..... Alle ombord! train ............................... tog waterfall ....................... foss mountains ............... fjellene farmhouse ......... våningshus valley ............................ dal village .................... landsby beautiful .................. vakker

Sverre Hjornevik / visitflam.com

Hans Blossey / Alamy Stock Photo

• It takes about 60 minutes to travel from Flåm to Myrdal, climbing 12.4 miles through the beautiful Flåmsdalen Valley. • The railway took 16 years to build. • The train climbs from sea level to nearly 2,841 feet. • It passes through 20 tunnels carved out of the mountainside. • Eighteen of the tunnels were dug by hand. • It took about 150 hours of labor to create just one 3-foot section of tunnel. • The Nali Tunnel, measuring more than 4,200 feet, took 11 years to build. • More than 80 percent of the journey runs on a gradient of 5.5 percent. That means the rail line rises over 3 feet in height for every 60 feet it travels. • It’s one of the steepest standard gauge railway lines in the world.

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RIGHT STUFF

fine things

TO WANT

SMART, NOT CASUAL An Apple Watch can be useful, so there’s no reason it can’t be beautiful too. With the Smart Caviar line, Lagos has created luxe bracelets to style-up your Apple Watch, whether tracking heart rate at the gym or enjoying an upscale evening out. lagos.com

COZY CONTEMPORARY Architectural designer Malcolm Majer used industrial materials like hollow aluminum and solid steel to create a piece dubbed simply “Chair 4.” Take a seat and rest, or take a step back and admire it as art. malcolmmajer.com

SOFT ILLUMINATION The Wander Light takes inspiration from Asian paper lanterns, combining a whimsical shape with sturdy construction. The handle is powder-coated steel, sweeping over an opal-white glass shade. The soft shape with its warm glow exudes all the comforts of home. fromthebay.com

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GRAPES &GRAINS

CRAFT ALASKA

49th State Brewing Company

THE NORTHERN BEER SCENE RISES TO THE TOP By Susanna Kelly

Traveling through Alaska invokes images of a vast untamed wilderness — calving glaciers, vivid northern lights, bears gorging on salmon, and the midnight sun. However, what many may not expect is that Alaska is also home to a thriving craft beer scene, with brews as wild as nature itself. Alaskans are known to pair their beers with adventures, and I have fond memories

BEER ENTHUSIASTS FROM AROUND THE WORLD COME TO APPRECIATE THE DIVERSITY OF ALASKA’S CRAFT BEER SCENE.

of enjoying Single Engine Red sitting around

found at Alaska’s smallest craft brewery, Bleeding Heart Brewery, located in Palmer. Zach Lanphier and Stefan Marty, the creative masterminds behind Alaska’s most unique brews, believe that “every beer tells a story; every beer has heart!” Instead of brewing a standard IPA, they make their Bleeding Heart Beet IPA with locally sourced beets, adding a mild sweetness (and deep ruby color) to the piney hop flavor. Bleeding Heart even has a

a campfire after a long day of hiking, Smoked Märzen while grilling

brew certified by the Department of Agriculture for sourcing every

caribou meat, Hippy Speedball on a midafternoon break from

ingredient locally. With the agricultural difficulties presented in

snowboarding and Polar Pale Ale on long summer days.

Alaska, this is no small feat.

Craft beer became part of the local adventure culture in 1986 with

The lack of malting facilities in Alaska might deter some from

the opening of Alaskan Brewing Co., but the industry hit its stride in

opening a craft brewery, but Turnagain Brewing has instead created

2014 with over 40 craft breweries now open across the state.

a meaningful partnership with a local wheat farm to offer a wide variety of sours all made with unmalted wheat.

FLAVOR INNOVATORS

Despite the many hurdles that brewing in such a remote place

Brewers in Alaska go against the grain, taking traditional

presents, brewers have risen to the top to produce award-winning

brewing techniques into uncharted territory. It’s only fitting for

beers such as Spruce IPA from Alaska Brewing Co., which won Gold

The Last Frontier. The best example of this individuality can be

in 2018 at the World Beer Cup.

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CLIMATE AND COMMUNITY Maybe one of the reasons Alaskans enjoy drinking their beer in nature is that the brews are deeply intertwined with the Arctic climate. Home to the northernmost brewery in the United States, the high latitude of Alaska results in a terroir unlike anywhere in the world. Brewers creatively utilize ingredients shaped by the Arctic climate and combine them with the pristine waters from glacier-fed aquifers, producing some surprising tasting notes. A perfect kind of synergy happens in Alaska with the long summer days and cold winter nights. Spruce Force IPA is brewed with the hand-picked, fresh new growth of Sitka spruce, resulting in notes of raspberry sorbet. Similar beers using spruce tips from the eastern United States often have more lemon and citrus flavors. A land of many remote communities, often inaccessible by road, creates the opportunity for enterprising locals to open a small craft brewery in their hometown. Residents often feel a personal connection to their local, as it’s likely that they have a friend

Turnagain Brewing

working the taproom, a relative that owns the farm producing the wheat, or they spend their spring handpicking spruce tips — such is the way of Alaska’s small towns. In return, the breweries are deeply rooted in the local community, doing their part to give back by supporting farms, creating jobs or donating their time, resources, and properties to community events. Baranof Island Brewing Company in Sitka hosts a community night where they donate proceeds back to various causes.

A PERFECT KIND OF SYNERGY HAPPENS IN ALASKA WITH THE LONG SUMMER DAYS AND COLD WINTER NIGHTS. BEYOND BEER For those that aren’t a fan of beer or are gluten intolerant, the craft beverage scene in Alaska is starting to see an increase in cideries, meaderies, wineries and distilleries — in fact, Denali Brewing Co.

Top to bottom: Courtesy of Turnagain Brewery; mauritius images GmbH / Alamy Stock Photo

in Talkeetna oversees the operation of a distillery, brewery, cidery and meadery. Double Shovel, a cidery in Anchorage, makes a local rhubarb mint cider that will ruin all ciders for you in the future. Homer, home to Bear Creek Winery, takes advantage of Alaska’s bountiful berry harvest creating blueberry and raspberry wine. Two Seasons meadery just opened their doors, in Anchorage, to offer mead made with local Alaskan honey. Beer enthusiasts from around the world come to appreciate the diversity of Alaska’s craft beer scene. They are immediately welcomed into the community by the friendly locals who are happy to swap Alaskan stories over a cold one. Drinking local brew around an open fire, at the top of a mountain, or while reeling in a king salmon is an integral part of Alaskan culture. While taprooms and brewpubs are cozy, safe havens against the elements, Alaskans prefer to drink beer outside under the northern lights or the midnight sun. So, to do as the locals do, grab a growler and pair it with an outdoor adventure. SEABOURN CLUB HERALD

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UNCORKED

CHANGING ALASKA ONE BEER AT A TIME

BREWER DAVID MCCARTHY HAS GREAT PLANS FOR THE GREAT LAND.

49th State Brewing Company (2)

By Susanna Kelly

The Alaskan craft beer scene is taking off, but

State’s “Dubbel on Tundra,” made with local birch

one brewer, David McCarthy — CEO and founder

syrup from Talkeetna, and the Smoked Märzen, an

of the 49th State Brewing Company — is pushing

amber frontier-style malt-forward lager with hints

the industry with an innovative business model and

of cherry and wood smoke, which won Gold at the

brewing beers that honor history with Alaskan twists.

World Beer Cup in 2018.

McCarthy received an education in hospitality

With this more profound appreciation for

from his hometown, Chicago, while spending his

tradition, McCarthy returned to Alaska on a mission

free time concocting home brews. He came to travel

to brew beers with nods to history while utilizing

Alaska by motorcycle in 2000 and ended up settling

local ingredients. When he was young, McCarthy was moved by his

in the small town of Healy, where he opened the

dad telling him, “the last farm in Chicago is closing.”

49th State Brewing Co.

These words inspired him to create a business practice

The popularity of McCarthy’s beers quickly spread, leading him to expand to a second brewpub in downtown Anchorage —

he calls “common sense,” but many refer to as “farm-to-table.” McCarthy

Alaska’s largest city, where tourists and locals alike gather to share a

has spent years working to develop sustainable partnerships with local

fresh pour.

farms and to give the guests of his brewpub an all-Alaskan experience.

McCarthy wanted to create a new standard for beer in the United

The 49th State donates their spent grain to local farmers who raise

States, so he went out into the world to connect with the history and

yak, pigs and cows. This livestock is then bought by the brewpub and

culture of beer.

incorporated into their menu. Doing so has brought about a revitalization

During his travels, he became enamored with two traditional beers,

of Alaskan farms.

the Maredsous 8° Bruin from Belgium, and the Original Schlenkerla

As McCarthy says, “We brew more than quality beer. We are

Rauchbier from Bamberg, Germany. These brews opened McCarthy’s

part of the community creating an integral part of success for local

mind to the full potential of brewing and were the inspiration for 49th

businesses that are growing because they believe in this partnership.”

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EACH DROP IS

PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY, Imported Cognac Hennessy® 40% Alc./Vol. (80º), ©2019 Imported by Moët Hennessy USA, Inc., New York, NY

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CUISINES OF THE WORLD

Fuzi with truffles

CROATIAN CUISINE WHERE CULTURES CONVERGE AND FLAVORS MINGLE By Antony Bolante

clear why it has been called, “the Pearl of the Adriatic.”

traditions are precisely what makes them

chopped onion, parsley and garlic are

quintessentially Croatian.

spread onto dough, which has been rolled

Here’s just a sample of Croatian dishes

Its ancient walls and terracotta rooftops

that are as sublime as their surroundings.

would seem to have been conjured from a mythic tome, yet they greet millions

into a thin circle. Another layer of dough is placed on top and the edges are sealed. Traditionally, the pie is baked in a komin,

SOPARNIK

a hearth heated by coals, until it’s a crispy

of visitors every year. It’s no wonder

Though both the Croatian Ministry

golden brown. Once cooled, the pie is

that UNESCO includes the city — along

of Culture and UNESCO have declared

brushed with olive oil infused with finely

with nine other places in Croatia — in its

it part of Croatia’s “intangible cultural

chopped garlic and parsley and then cut

carefully curated list of World Heritage sites.

heritage,” foodies will surely find soparnik

into serving-sized pieces.

Croatia

has

been

inhabited

since

not only a tangible, but also a tasty finger

The quiet and picturesque coastal town

antiquity, and over the centuries, its

food. Also known as zeljanik or uljenjak,

of Dugi Rat (which translates to “long cape”)

contours and character have been shaped

this Dalmatian delicacy is a savory pie that

has a festival dedicated to soparnik in late

by many cultures and regimes. It’s only

features chard, onion, parsley and garlic.

July, but you’re sure to find this popular dish

natural that Croatian cuisine also reflects

However, there are also sweet variations

year round and throughout Croatia.

its varied geography and long history.

of soparnik that include dried fruits or

Flavors that predominate in coastal Croatia

caramel. Originating in the Poljica area

are of Greek, Roman, Mediterranean

of Dalmatia as far back as the late Middle

One of Dalmatia’s signature culinary

and Italian heritage. Meanwhile, dishes

Ages, soparnik is widely considered to be

offerings isn’t a particular dish, but rather a

of continental Croatia encompass flavors

an ancestor of the Italian pizza.

type of cooking, called peka. Peka refers to

ISPOD PEKE

of Slavic, Hungarian and Turkish origin.

To make soparnik, strips of Swiss chard

a traditional technique in which vegetables

But the diversity and depth of these food

— or blitva, as the Croatians call it —

and spices are combined with meat or

50

Left: Franco Cogoli / eStock Right: Doug Pearson / AWL Images

Approaching Dubrovnik by sea, it’s

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Restaurant in Korcula, Croatia SEABOURN CLUB HERALD

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seafood in a pan that’s covered with a bell-

To make fuzi, pasta dough is rolled into thin

counterparts — but luckily, they are still

shaped lid, or cripnja. The lid, in turn, is

sheets, and cut into diamond shapes. Then,

more abundant and less expensive. So

covered with hot embers and the contents

two corners of each diamond are pinched

don’t pass up your chance to enjoy freshly

left to cook until the meat is tender and the

together to form a tube with quill-shaped

made fuzi pasta crowned with a generous

vegetables infused with flavor. Although a

ends. Depending on the dish, fuzi highlights

portion of white truffle shavings.

range of ingredients can simmer “under

Istria’s varied culinary influences — from an

the bell,” why not try a variation unique

Italian-inspired veal ragu to a beef stew or

to a region situated on the clear waters of

chicken goulash that reflects Croatia’s Hun-

There’s a saying in Dalmatia: “A fish must

the Adriatic Sea: octopus peka, or ispod

garian ties. But some of the most delectable

swim three times: once in the sea, once in

peke. But whatever kind of peka you favor,

fuzi recipes feature an undeniably indige-

olive oil and once in wine.” This aphorism

remember that it typically takes a few hours

nous ingredient, Istrian truffles.

is the guiding principle behind Croatia’s

to prepare, so it’s wise to order in advance.

GREGADA & BRUDET

traditional fish stews, gregada and brudet.

And don’t forget to get some fresh, crusty

Gregada is made by sautéing sliced

bread to soak up every flavorful drop.

onions in olive oil, then slices of potato and garlic. Large pieces of fish are added

CRNI RIZOT

to the dish and braised in a mix of water

Black risotto can be found across Croatia’s

This simple yet mouthwatering dish is

crni rizot probably owes its origins to the

cuisines,

closely associated with the island of Hvar,

Venetian

Republic,

and

controlled

but is popular throughout coastal Croatia.

Dalmatia during the Middle Ages. This

which

Gregada can include any fresh, firm white

doesn’t make the dish any less Croatian;

fish; in Croatia, conger, grouper and

in fact, crni rizot is widely considered to

monkfish are common choices.

be a national dish and required dining for

Gregada

any visitor. The defining ingredient of crni rizot is cuttlefish, and its ink provides the dish not only with its characteristic black color, but also adds to its rich, savory flavor. (Additionally, the ink has been shown to have healthy antioxidant properties.) Cooked with white wine, butter, olive oil and garlic, crni rizot can also incorporate

probably

brought

to

Croatia’s shores by Greek settlers around

A FISH MUST SWIM THREE TIMES: ONCE IN THE SEA, ONCE IN OLIVE OIL AND ONCE IN WINE.

squid, prawns, mussels or clams. Finished

380 B.C. — so long ago, Epicurus himself could have enjoyed it! (Potatoes, however, were a slightly more recent addition to the original recipe.) The recipe for brudet also requires the fish to swim three times, though this stew has a rich, red broth (“brudet” comes from the Venetian word for broth, brodeto)

with a sprinkle of finely grated Parmesan cheese, it’s as visually striking as it is

was

made from tomatoes, red wine and plenty ISTRIAN TRUFFLES

of garlic, along with other vegetables and

delicious. In case you were wondering: yes,

As every epicurean knows, this difficult-

spices. Recipes for brudet vary widely from

the ink will temporarily color your smile.

to-cultivate and hard-to-find fungus is

kitchen to kitchen, but many recommend

And yes, you’ll be smiling.

considered a delicacy. Yet, many are

using at least three types of fish: a denser,

surprised to learn that Croatia is a major

meatier fish; a flaky and flavorful fish; and

source of both black truffles and the highly

an oily fish that will also help thicken the

Croatia’s Istrian peninsula is famous for

prized white variety. In fact, for many years,

sauce. And why stop there? Shrimp and

its cuisine, which is inflected both by its

Croatian white truffles were exported

mussels are also welcome to the party.

location and history. Given its proximity

on the black market to be sold as truffles

Finally, a nice soft polenta makes the

and historical ties to Italy, it’s no surprise

from Alba, Italy, a region renowned as a

perfect accompaniment to any Croatian

that Istria has developed its own pasta, a

truffle capital. Today, Istrian truffles are

fish stew.

trademark variety called fuzi.

recognized as equal to their more famous

FUZI

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Dobar tek!

Ingram Image

Mediterranean

and white wine for about 20 minutes.

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#EffyMoments

EffyJewelr y.com FINE

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JE WELRY

E S T.

1979

11/18/19 10:49 AM


MINDFUL LIVING

HOW TO BE A HEALTHY HOLOBIONT BEING A GENEROUS HOST TO THE MICROORGANISMS WITHIN YOU HAS A WEALTH OF BENEFITS. By DR. ANDREW WEIL

Fermented foods

I’m a great fan of unusual words, and one of

we also host fungi, viruses and protozoa —

Some researchers believe that it’s

my favorites is holobiont — from holo, whole;

influence every aspect of our health. That

important to have a higher ratio of so-

and biont, a discrete unit of living matter.

includes the risk of diseases, including

called “good” microorganisms, but that’s

It describes an entity consisting of a host

metabolic disorders such as diabetes as

tricky, as “good” and “bad” are tough to

and the microorganisms that live on and

well as heart disease, inflammatory bowel

distinguish. As one researcher put it, “…

within it, in a relationship that benefits both.

disease, mental illnesses and many forms

it is still very difficult to fully decipher the

of cancer.

role of any microorganism in a complex

On our skin, within our mouth, but mostly inside our digestive tract, are a total of roughly five pounds of microbes — in total, they outnumber our own human cells. In the late 1980s, researchers dubbed this collective “the microbiome.”

community such as the gut microbiota.”

AS WITH VIRTUALLY ANY ECOSYSTEM, MORE DIVERSITY IS BETTER THAN LESS.

The microbiome is passed from mother

Most researchers seem to agree that the best rough guide we can have is that, as with virtually any ecosystem, more diversity is better than less. Just as a potato-blight fungus wiped out Ireland’s single-crop-intensive fields and brought about mass starvation, so a relatively

to child during childbirth. Those trillions

So how do we keep our microbiome

of microbes in our gut are a complex,

optimal? Science is still sorting that out — as

susceptible to disruption by a single agent

dynamic ecosystem, changing day by

you might expect, the relationship between

or invader.

day, even hour by hour. And they matter

100 trillion living microorganisms and the

So how do we optimize the diversity of

immensely. Studies are finding that these

roughly 30 trillion cells of the human body

our microbiome — and consequently, our

microorganisms — most are bacteria, but

is complex.

health as holobionts?

54

mono-cultured

microbiome

is

highly

Ingram Image

I like the term because I am a holobiont. And so are you.

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Scrub Island Marina, Scrub Island.

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MINDFUL LIVING

These are not easy questions to answer — again, the complexity of the microbiome makes experimentation difficult. But the advice I give below has been linked to good health outcomes. I don’t think it’s too much of a leap to suggest that at least part of the reason these are “good for us” is that they optimize microbiome diversity:

AVOID PROCESSED CARBS: Carbohydrates, especially highly processed ones such as those in cakes, cookies and snack foods, tend to drive inflammation. FIBER UP: Dietary fiber appears to help regulate blood sugar levels by encouraging the microbiome to produce short-chain fatty acids that keep glucose in a tight range. EMBRACE OMEGA-3: Getting an adequate supply of omega-3 fatty acids, abundant in wild-caught cold-water fish such as salmon and sardines, is associated with brain and cardiovascular health.

56

EAT “PREBIOTIC” FOODS: Foods that feed an appropriate, healthful mix of gut microbes should be a regular part of the diet. Examples include acacia powder (available online) mixed with water, chicory root, Jerusalem artichoke, dandelion greens, garlic, onion, leek and asparagus. EAT FERMENTED FOODS: Examples include sauerkraut, kimchi, fresh pickles, miso, yogurt and kefir to replenish microbial populations. GET HUNGRY NOW AND THEN: Fasting intermittently — for example, eating only in a “window” from noon to 6 p.m. and consuming only liquids otherwise several days of the week — has been shown to lower inflammation. DON’T TAKE ANTIBIOTICS UNLESS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY: They wreak havoc on the microbiome. If you must be on antibiotics, take a probiotic throughout the course of therapy to help repopulate the gut with a healthy microbial ecosystem.

Ingram Image

GO EASY ON FAT: Excessive fat in the diet can drive excessive, whole-body inflammation, and this seems to relate to dysregulation of the microbiome. It is especially important to minimize intake of polyunsaturated seed oils that have been repeatedly heated, such as the refined soybean commonly used for deep-frying in restaurants.

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TA N Z A N I T E D R E A M S C

O

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L

E C

T I O

N

#OMG #ifinallydidit #treatedmyself #youshouldtoo #Milanorocks

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CLUB PICKS

FOUR ESSENTIAL JOURNEYS AN INSIDER’S LOOK AT UPCOMING VOYAGES

Living in harmony with the Antipodean LAND AUCK

EY SY DN ur ne Melbo Eden Phillip Isla nd

Tasman Sea

Taur an

Milfor d

gt Wellin

on

A ka roa s ha lmer Port C

Sound

d Fiordlan l Nationa Park

below, an active reminder of New Zealand’s strange solidity. The sandy slopes of Nelson and

ga

Nelson

Bass Strait

In Rotorua, the ground itself bubbles and steams with geothermal energy rising from far

LA ND

Oba n

the Giant’s House of Akaroa share a sense of home’s comforts among unearthly beauty. The landscape of Fiordland National Park, the koalas of Phillips Island, even the whales of Eden all express the unbreakable link between life and the land.

Seabourn Encore 16-Day Auckland to Sydney voyage on January 6; February 7; March 11, 2021

Rising to the Mediterranean SUNSHINE The Riviera sun never fails to bring with it the warmth of hospitality. It imparts a golden glow Portof

on the galleries of Florence and the kaleidoscopic façades of Portofino. It ripens the grapes

ino o Livorn

CIV ITAV Pa la m

ós BA RC

IA ECCH

rrane Medite a Se

travelers as they did in Roman times, while on Palma de Mallorca, the stately spires of La Seu, the Palma Cathedral, and Bellver Castle, the Gothic protector of this Balearic island, kindle a

ELON A

different kind of fire in the visitor’s heart.

an

de Pa lma a Mallorc

Seabourn Quest and Seabourn Encore 7-Day Civitavecchia (Rome) to Barcelona voyage on May 12; June 11; July 25; and August 29, 2020

Halong

Bay

Siha no

D

great nations that journeyed by sea. One afternoon among the towering formations and

a Nang

traditional boats of Halong Bay reveals the oceanic beauty of this part of the world. Whether

South China Sea

Ko Kood

exploring Hue, the Perfume River of imperial Vietnam — or the canals of Angkor Wat,

Ho Chi ity Minh C

uk ville

SING A

Hong Kong and Singapore became international cities because of their relationship to the

Hainan Strait

Gulf of Tonkin

Laem ng Chaba

Flowing with Asian WATERS

HONG KONG

accessible from the stilt villages of Sihanoukville — or the Chao Phraya flowing through Bangkok’s bustling streets, one cannot visit Southeast Asia and not be moved by the grace

PORE

and power of water.

Seabourn Ovation 14-Day Vietnam, Hong Kong to Singapore voyage on January 3; February 28, 2021

Dreaming of the Southern SKY Matiatia Bay EY SY DN ur ne Melbo

Phillip Isla nd

Tasman Sea

Bass Strait

Milfor

AU C K

d Sou

LA ND

gton Wellin Picton

Australia and New Zealand offer in abundance. Melbourne’s laneways pulse with urbane Kai

kour a

u Timar lmer s ha Por t C

nd

d Fiordlan l Nationa Park

Oba n

Nothing stimulates creativity as much as encounters with the unexpected; something that atmosphere. On the other hand, Timaru’s 35,000-acre Erewhon sheep station opens up to the big sky of the high country. The birds of Picton — musical bellbirds, enormous kereru, feisty fantails — seem too fantastic to be real. On the lofty shores of Matiatia Bay, art walks and ziplines vie with wine tastings for capturing your imagination.

Seabourn Encore 16-Day Sydney to Auckland voyage on January 22; February 23, 2021

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Opposite clockwise: Alan Copson / AWL Images; Dan Bannister / AWL Images Ltd; DanitaDelimont / AWL Images Ltd; Richard Stanley / AWL Images Ltd

Sète

of Bandol, and leaves the lagoon of Sète teeming with fresh seafood. In Palamós, famous prawns, Mediterranean herbs and locally produced olive oil offer the same balmy cordiality to

l Bando

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SUNSHINE ITALY

WATERS THAILAND

LAND

NEW ZEALAND

SKY

SEABOURN CLUB HERALD 59 AUSTRALIA

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SEE HEAR DO

SEABOURN RECOMMENDS: FOR YOUR DOWN TIME...

SEE THE JOY OF SWIMMING, JACKIE CORLEY

It’s hard not to be infatuated with the water (especially, of course, when on a luxury cruise). Whether you’re an Olympic butterfly hopeful or no more than a dedicated wader, you’re bound to find a moment or two of inspiration among this collection of quotations. Topics range from hardcore competition (“For myself, losing is not coming in second. It’s getting out of the water knowing you could have done better.” — Ian Thorpe) to meditations on water (“Live in the sunshine, swim in the sea, drink the wild air.” — Ralph Waldo Emerson). They’re all organized by theme in a small, easy-to-read hardback that’s just the right size for a beach bag or an oceanview balcony.

HEAR

DO

Medioimages / Photodisc / Getty Images

JAIME, BRITTANY HOWARD

For her next trick, the lead singer of the Grammy-winning Alabama Shakes went personal with a solo album dedicated to her late sister. Howard’s voice is a commanding instrument, bringing together the smooth passion of 21st-century soul, carefully crafted songwriting, and an emotional core that goes back to old blues legends. The mellow, celesta-tinged single, “Stay High,” would have been equally at home on a Smokey Robinson album from the ‘60s, while the funky chant of “13th Century Metal” lives up to its name, borrowing textures as much from Mogwaistyle post-rock as from Chick Corea’s fusion and Saul Williams’ slam poetry in its rough exaltation. The future is here, and it hasn’t forgotten anything.

BONAIRE NATIONAL MARINE PARK

The Dutch island of Bonaire knows how to celebrate the ocean. The BNMP is the world’s oldest marine reserve, encompassing everything off the coast of Bonaire and the satellite island of Klein Bonaire from the high-water mark down to 60 meters (197 feet) below sea level. The thriving coral, sea fans and seagrasses here provide a home for creatures from flamingo-tongue snails to green sea turtles, and fast-swimming fish from wahoo to whale sharks — all within easy access for even inexperienced divers. On the surface, one can board a past winner of the International Bonaire Sailing Regatta and discover the peaceful speed that comes from harnessing even a gentle Caribbean breeze. 60

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#decisionsdecisions #founditallatMilano #onestopshop

TA N Z A N I T E D R E A M S C O

L

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E C

T I O N

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Cyril Ruoso / NPL / Minden Pictures

VIEWFINDER

IQUITOS, UPPER AMAZON The Peruvian Amazon is one of the world’s most diverse ecosystems, and Iquitos is the world’s largest city that cannot be reached by road. Instead, people follow the living river into and out of this jungle metropolis, a colonial city surrounded by companies of parrots, armies of frogs and barrels of monkeys. Whether it’s the floating marketplace of Belén, the vibrant riverfront Malecón or the rubber-baron memorabilia in the Museum of Historic Ships aboard the 1906 riverboat Ayapua, Iquitos exists with the rise and fall of Amazon’s waters.

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PINK MOTHER OF PEARL

in rose gold

Made in the USA | kabana.com | 800-521-5986

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DOM PÉRIGNON ® CHAMPAGNE, © 2019 IMPORTED BY MOËT HENNESSY USA, INC., NEW YORK, NY. PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY Seabourn293_C4 Moet DomPer.indd 4 TR SP_DOM PERIGNON Vintage 2008_SEABOURN MAG_8,375X10,875inch_USA.indd 1

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Seabourn Club Herald Fall 2019 Issue 29.3  

In this issue: - Croatian Cuisine - Flam Railway - Montreal's Best Boutiques - Wild Juneau and more!

Seabourn Club Herald Fall 2019 Issue 29.3  

In this issue: - Croatian Cuisine - Flam Railway - Montreal's Best Boutiques - Wild Juneau and more!

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