P O U F !
M A G A Z I N E 2 0 1 2
#1
O C T / N O V
MONSIEUR CROCO Meet the man behind the new luxury brand
autumn dinner party
+ New
ETIQUETTE AND MANNERS
magazine!
A GUIDE TO RED LIPSTICK
WHAT TO PACK FOR A WEEKEND IN PARIS
inspring, classy, timeless
STYLE
72 Red Lipstick Guide 14 44 WINDOW SHOPPING
Things we absolutely must have. Like monogrammed slippers, expensive liquorice and key fobs shaped like typewriters. Just the bare necessities, dahling!
WINE & DINE
STYLE AT HOME
Our Editor in chief shows us around her fab pad. Isn’t that nice?
#1 72 Brassiere my dear!
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AND YOU THOUGHT YOU WOULDN’T EAT CARBS
54 AUTUMN DINNER PARTY 55 MANNERS & ETIQUETTE 82 THE BARMAN 84 CLASSIC COCKTAIL
HEALTH & BEAUTY
STYLE
68 FIGHT THE AUTUMN BLUES
20 THE BIRKIN BAG
Turn that frown upside down!
Pouf! up your fashion his- tory. Scientia est potentia!
28 PARIS PACKING LIST 70
SKIN CARE
High maintenance? Who, moi?
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80 IN HER BATHROOM CABINET
Smart and stylish. (Leave room for shopping.)
74 RED LIPSTICK GUIDE
How to sport a power pout this autumn.
CON T ENTS
ING, CLASSY, TIMELESS Want us? Need us? Subscribe to Pouf! and never miss out. Click here.
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PARDON MY FRENCH
Oui Oui! Pop out to Paris for a little Je ne sais quoi.
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REAL WEDDING
THE PREMIER ISSUE
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Autumn Bucket List Autumn adventures yippee!
Kristina Hultkrantz ILLUSTRATOR
American born illustrator Kristina Hultkrantz, you may know her as Emma-Kisstina, loves being a true girly girl. She loves drawing the beautiful things we have around us, that define who were are, and make us happy... or anything pink! Since 2008 she lives and works in her dream city Stockholm, Sweden.
Jonny Lindh PHOTOGRAPHER Photographer Jonny Lindh wanted to be an oceanographer, but got out of the water to become a photographer instead. We’re glad to have him on dry land, photographing gorgeous food for us.
Katja Palmdahl CHEF, FOOD STYLIST Katja is a recipes and inspiration consultant and food stylist who loves good, simple and beautiful food. She has written and contributed in several cook books, such as Nordens bästa mat and Mannerströms stora kokbok. She also works with advertising and food magazines.
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CON T R I BUTORS
Marko Vesterinen PHOTOGRAPHER
Marko Vesterinen is a freelance photographer living in Gothenburg, Sweden. He’s usually found roaming around photographing urban and nature landscapes. He loves to photograph the hidden beauty that is so often overlooked by the public.
George James BARMAN AND COLUMNIST George James is a barman who has worked his way up from pulling pints in pubs, to shaking gimlets for presidents. In each issue George sneaks you in behind the bar of London’s most fashionable events. He’ll even share a drink with you.
Carita Filipsson PHOTOGRAPHER Carita is a graphic designer with an interest in photography. She likes to oil painting and gets inspiration from the sea. In this issue she has photographed Ann-Charlottes home.
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Milica Jevtic Avon MAKEUP ARTIST
Milica is an actress, freelance make up artist and beauty trainer for Avon. She loves a good beer and her favourite animals are cats. She gets her inspiration and strength from her friends and Yoga practice, which she has been doing for many years. When asked, she was thrilled to help Pouf!’s readers with makeup advice.
Aleksandra Vlahovic GUEST EDITOR Aleksandra is section manager, a mother of two and a lover of gourmet cuisine. Working with lingerie for many years, she is very particular in the selection of these garments and always promotes “Quality before quantity” For Pouf!’s premiere issue, she guides our readers on how to select the correct bra.
Dusica Popovic PSYCHIATRIST AND PSYCHOTHERAPIST Dusica is a medical doctor, psychiatrist and REBT psychotherapist. As most women who are lovers of a good lifestyle she cannot resist the good things in life. She immediately accepted the invitation to write about well-being for Pouf! Magazine since she was thrilled by the idea that she could help our readers.
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CON T R I BUTORS
Dr. Nevenka V. Dokmanovic SPECIALIST IN DERMAVENEROLOGY
Nevenka is the owner of SkinMedic and Medical doctor specialising in dermatovenerology. She is a lover of modern art and fine coffee. Dr. Nevenka was the first one out to work with mezotherapy in former Yugoslavia and is today the president of The Society Of Mezotherapy in Serbia.
Magdalena Kocovska STYLIST AND MAKEUP ARTIST Magdalena is a freelance fashion editor with degrees in Journalism and Media Studies, and Communication Studies. Her signature is silk and lace. Obsessed with fine lingerie and etiquette books, she never leaves home without her studs and a spritz of fragrance. Follow her on Twitter @magskoco
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Delighted to make your acquaintance
Ann-Charlotte Lovén Co-founder and Editor in chief of Pouf! Magazine Inspired by: It changes, but right now I’m totally into the style of Lemon Breeland in Hart of Dixie. My style: Ballet flats, anything leopard print, pearl earrings and piles of bracelets. Shops at: Not a big shopper but mostly in vintage/second hand shops, Massimo Dutti and Zara. Swears by: Anything classic Chanel and ladylike. Wishes: That I had a dishwasher so that my poor husband didn’t have to do the washing up all of the time. Pouf!ed up in a minute: Statement accessories, pink blusher, coral lipstick and heels. Drop her a line: anncharlotte@poufmagazine.com 8
M EET
THE
TEAM
Jelena Jankovic Co-founder and CEO of Pouf! Magazine Inspired by: Modern time classic ladies. Such as the stylish Olivia Palermo and Lily Humpfrey from Gossip Girl. My style: Chic, modern classic, mixing materials and always have a beautiful cardigan if all else fails. Shops at: Anywhere where I will find a piece that suits my eye. Swears by: Accessories, that can light up any boring outfit. Wishes: I had a collection of Hermes Bags. Pouf!ed up in a minute: Sun powder, black mascara and Lancôme’s Juicy tube strawberry colour matched with a big necklace. Get in touch: jelena@poufmagazine.com
Linnea Måhlén Graphic designer at Pouf! Magazine Inspired by: Audrey Hepburn, Megan in Mad Men, most 60’s-70’s icons such as Jane Birkin and anyone with big eyebrows. My style: Simple and elegantly girly with a twist. A bit 60’s at the moment. Shops at: Mainly COS and vintage. Swears by: Bright coloured lipstick. Wishes: That there was a J.Crew in Sweden. Pouf!ed up in a minute: Blusher, lipstick and a simple dress. Send her fan mail: linnea@poufmagazine.com
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“Inspiring, classy timeless.�
NOTES FROM OUR EDITORS What an adventure! As we write this very first editors letter, we are filled with gratitude. What stared as an idea one cold day in January has grown into something larger than the two of us could ever imagine. In each step of this process we found that others were intrigued by our idea and wanted to help us turn our vision into reality. One by one, a team was formed, and after months of hard work, Pouf! Magazine was born. Pouf! Magazine was designed with one thing in mind: Our readers! Each issue is packed with classic fashion, beautiful homes, travel, culture and all that inspires to live a life in beauty. To our contributors, supporters and readers: THANK YOU from the bottom of our hearts!
Jelena & Ann-Charlotte
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Ann-Charlotte Lovén Jelena Jankovic
PHOTO MARKO VESTERINEN STYLING & MAKEUP MAGDALENA KOCOVSKA 11
A utumn BUCKET LIST Go for a nature walk Sip red wine in front of an open fire Watch a scary movie Bake an apple pie Visit a museum Host an autumn dinner party Stay inside on a rainy day to read your coffee table books Celebrate cinnamon bun day on October 4th Go to Paris for a romantic weekend
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WINDOW SHOPPING
STYLE
Bits of
BLACK When fall arrives and the days get shorter and darker I tend to feel a bit more ‘Noir’. Black is back!
Choosen by our graphic designer L innea Måhlén
cushion cover 299SEk (¤36) afroart.se playing cards 195Sek (¤24) svenskttenn.se rain boots 400SEk (¤48) office.co.uk marimekko bowl 140sek (¤17) finnishdesignshop.com chanel nail polish 167SEK (¤20) chanel.com 14
WINDOW SHOPPING
lampshade 149SEK (¤18) LAGERHAUS.se dress 249SEk (¤30) hm.com B&w photo - audrey hepburn 86SEk (¤11) ebay.com tokyomilk handcream 146Sek (¤18) barneys.com madewell mini skirt 453sek (¤55) madewell.com liquorice pastilles 49sek (¤6) reneevoltaire.se beaded collar 172sek (¤21) topshop.com 15
WINDOW SHOPPING
STYLE
Sleep BEAUTY
Go to bed as a caterpillar - wake up as a butterfly!
Choosen by our editor in chief ovén Ann-Charlotte L
marvis toothpaste 79SEK (¤9) tandapoteket.se hair curlers 45Sek (¤5) kicks.se sleep easy tea 32SEk (¤4) skanstullshalsokost.se downers jar 853SEk (¤104) jonathanadler.com carafe & tumbler 395sek (¤48) lauraashley.se 16
WINDOW SHOPPING
eye mask 59SEK (¤7) zarahome.com tiffany bows mug 233Sek (¤28) tiffany.com monogram slippers 6 000SEk (¤732) stubbsandwootton.com jenny packham silk chiffon robe 4 485SEk (¤670) net-a-porter.com silk lavender neck roll 669sek (¤82) holisticsilk.com chanel body lotion 334sek (¤40) chanel.com vanity fair book 261sek (¤32) adlibris.se 17
WINDOW SHOPPING
STYLE
Business as usual
Make sure you have all your necessities to get dressed for success!
Choosen by our CE O Jelena Jankovic
women, work and the art of savoir faire 79SEK (¤9) adlibris.com typewriter key ring 480Sek (¤57) luluguinness.com christian louboutin pumps 4 845sEk (¤575) net-a-porter.com tom ford black orchid 705SEk (¤84) sephora.com lancôme juicy tube jelly 240sek (¤15) sephora.com 18
WINDOW SHOPPING
Diane von furstenberg black crepe dress 3 480SEK (¤413) net-a-porter.com dachshund letter holder 270Sek (¤32) anthropologie.eu reading glasses 455SEk (¤54) katespade.com bodum travel mug 299SEk (¤35) royaldesign.se michael kors gold watch 2 280sek (¤270) my-wardrobe.com lux pen set ballograf.se monogram stationary 175sek (¤21) katespade.com double zip tote 3 859sek (¤458) toryburch.com 19
STYLE
OBJEC T
OF
DES I RE
The Story of the Birkin Bag TEXT JELENA JANKOVIC ILLUSTRATION KRISTINA HULTKRANTZ
“Coulda, Woulda, Shoulda” Don’t we all remember the SATS episode, when Samantha uses Lucy Lui to get the famous Birkin bag for herself.
F
or years women around the world have been longing for this precious bag. Due to the high price and its exclusiveness The Birkin bag today represents wealth and status. Many famous people have been seen carrying around one on of these babies. One with the biggest collection of Birkin Bags today is Victoria Beckham which, according to an article in ”The Mail Online” is worth approximately £1,5m. So what is it that makes this bag so special? Maybe it is the fact that for years there has
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been a waiting list for these bags, for some specific models even up to six years!!! This is the longest waiting list ever recorded in bag history. In 2010 however Hermés announced that the waiting list is gone and that it would now be available to everyone. Maybe it is its high price which range from $9,000 to $150,000 that makes it so special? Or maybe the fact that Victoria Beckham owns 100 pieces? There are many factors that are influencing this but the fact is that this has been the IT-bag for
“One with the biggest collection of Birkin Bags today is Victoria Beckham which, according to an article in ”The Mail Online” is worth approximately £1,5m.” many years and probably for many years to come. So what is the fairy tale behind this precious piece of art? The story goes like this, In 1981 young Jane Birkin stepped on a plane from London to Paris and was seated next to the Hermès chief executive Jean-Louis Dumas. She had just put her bag in the overhead compartment when all the things fell out and she was left to pick them all up. At that point Mrs Birkin explained to her neighbor in the plane – Jean-Louis that she was very disappointed that she could not find a weekend bag suitable for her taste. At the end of the flight he introduced himself and explained to her that he was the chief executive for fashion house Hermès. In 1984 he created a black supple leather bag for her. And this bag has become a fashion Icon and the no 1 wish for women all around the world. Craftsmanship The Birkin bag is a handbag produced by Hermès a French fashion house established 1837. Today Hermès specialises in luxury goods including clothing and perfume. The company logo that was created 1950 is a duc carriage with horse. The orange colour is associated with Hermès and has become their trademark. The Birkin bag comes in a range of different sizes, materials and
jane birkin , july 19 70. click here to buy P R IN T.
colours and each one can be custom ordered. Depending on the option of the material the delivery time will vary. One of the most expensive ones in this selection is the saltwater crocodile skin bag. All the bags are handmade by artisans with a saddle stitching that was developed in the 1800s. Even though the bag is free of logos it is the most recognised bag in the industry of fashion as well as by the public. So with the waiting list gone ladies..Well there is nothing stoping us now..Or maybe except for our wallets that might put a slight constraint for this jewel... So Plan B: Dear dear Santa Clause!
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OUT & ABOUT
Par don my
french
Jessica Svensson moved to Paris when she was 19 years old to work as an Au Pair. She ended up staying and now calls the city of lights her home. We caught up with her to talk about her view on Paris and Parisian women.
TEXT & PHOTOS ANN-CHARLOTTE LOVÉN ILLUSTRATION KRISTINA HULTKRANTZ 22
23
OUT & ABOUT
“I’ve been told off by some French men for eating too much popcorn or sweets when going to the cinema on a date.”
J
essica, you’ve lived in Paris your entire adult life. Can you tell us about the biggest differences between French and Swedish women? Well, I’d say the Swedish women are more laid back than the French. This might have to do with Sweden being a more equal country where women have to fight less for their cause and in general I have the feeling that Swedish women are less ”frustrated” than women in France. Among my group of Swedish friends we sometimes say that French women get mini attacks. This is when they make a mountain out of a molehill. Swedish women just don’t seem to get mini attacks. So, how would you describe the typical Swedish woman? I think she’s more independent than the French woman. Swedish women would rather be single than stay in a bad relationship. The French women are unfortunately not always in love with their partners. I often get asked why I’m single and my answer is: Because I’m not in love with anyone. Another thing I’ve noticed (when chatting with my French colleagues for example) is that they say: ”My husband helps me a lot with the house work”. I really can’t see a Swedish woman saying something like that. To her, the housework is both partners responsibility. What would a normal week look like for a working woman in her thirties? It’s a very fulfilling lifestyle to live in a big city such as Paris.
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For me it’s rare to just go home after work and watch TV. The working day normally starts between 9-10 o’ clock and ends between 18-19. You take a long lunch (one or two hours) and this gives you time to do your errands. You seldom see the French bringing a packed lunch to work. Fast food is very common in France. You grab a sandwich or a salad on your lunch break. Sometimes people sit down and have a proper meal and a glass of wine, but it certainly isn’t common. The weekdays often include many social events such as dining out, meeting friends after work over a glass of wine or cocktails. What about children? Do parents bring them along to restaurants? Paris is not a very child friendly city. I seldom see kids in restaurants. The kids usually get picked up from school by a nanny or Au pair, since the parents still haven’t finished work by the time school finishes. The nanny then helps out with homework and makes sure the child eats supper. It’s not very common for the children to eat supper with their parents. That’s a big difference between Sweden and France. The parents eat their supper later - either at home or at a restaurant. You live in the capital of haute couture. Do women here ever go to work without make up or in flats? France is not exactly famous for having comfortable clothes. Parisian women always wear nice heels and usually carry a spare pair of ballerinas in their purse. I’d wear the ballerinas in the Metro or if I know that I’ll walk for a
OUT & ABOUT
Jessica’s favourite places For shopping Sandro. Nice clothes that always makes you look your best. Food market Le Marche d’Aligre in the 12th arrondissement. The indoor food hall is a nice place to get an aperitif and amuse geules before heading home with your just-bought groceries. The rose garden in Boulogne Forest is nice in May and June. Les enfants perdus French cuisine with a twist. Friendly staff, nice decor and a cotton candy machine. If you are nice you might get some Barbe à Papa after dinner. Make reservations! Experimental Cocktail Club at 37 Rue Saint Sauveur, 75002 Paris. Delicious, innovative and exciting cocktails. La plage parisienne Sunday brunch in a swanky, yet relaxed environment with a view over the Eiffel tower. Le grand palais Not just one of Paris’s most beautiful buildings, but they always show interesting art exhibitions as well. Out back lays a trendy restaurant with an amazing terrace and sometimes live piano music.
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OUT & ABOUT
while. I put on my heels when I’ve arrived at work or at the resto. You wouldn’t see a Parisienne go shopping in sneakers (that’s how you spot a tourist). They care a great deal about their appearance and like to look chic. Swedes are generally known for being well dressed and good looking. Do you think thats true? I think that’s true if you live in the larger Swedish cities. But in Sweden everyone looks alike. You all wear the same trendy wellingtons, shoes, etc. The Swedes are very fashion conscious, but that just makes everyone look the same. In Paris the style is very classic, but you don’t have to look like everyone else. It’s not like all French women wear cute skirt suits, sky-high heels and red lipstick but they do care about how they dress. How does the typical woman maintain her appearance? There is a concept of having your own esthéticienne that you visit on a regular basis to perhaps wax your legs, etc. Regular manicures and pedicures is also a part of the Parisian woman’s beauty regime. The price for a manicure is between €15-20. It is also common for Parisian women to go for regular blowouts - Le brushing about once a week. La Parisienne really spends her money on the important things in life *ha-ha*. One thing you often hear is that French women don’t exercise. That they go on diets and use slimming products instead. Is this something you’ve noticed? This is quite true! There is a huge difference between the French and the Swedes on 26
OUT & ABOUT
this matter. I find the Swedes to be really sporty in general. This is a part of our culture with the Swedish ”gympa”, jogging or skating and skiing in the winter. French people do less exercise in general and consider bicycling or roller skating as a sport. Whereas for Swedes, these activities are considered as transport. One thing you have to take into consideration is that in a big city like Paris you don’t really use a car. You walk a lot on a day-to-day basis. Also, the gym-memberships are very expensive here with a normal fee at about €70-100 per month. But apart from this, the French women don’t seem to believe that exercise actually works. They prefer le régime and different slimming products such as anti-cellulite creams or décolletage creams.
not hungry”. In Sweden one eats snacks or sweets even if one’s not hungry. You really get criticised if you are not on a diet (le régime). French women are always on le régime and there is always a new trendy diet they all try and won’t stop talking about. Let’s talk a bit about dating. What’s that like in the city of love? In France you don’t date for very long. It’s not like in the U.S where you date until you are married. The term dating doesn’t really exist here, not even in the way it does in Sweden either. You only call it a date if it’s the first or second one, after that you are pretty much a couple. As soon as you kiss, you are a couple.
”You wouldn’t see a Parisienne go shopping in sneakers (that’s how you spot a tourist).” Salon treatments such as fat reducing massages are also highly popular. There is a popular book called French Women Don’t Get Fat which describes how French women eat bread and pastry, drink wine, and regularly enjoy three-course meals all in small portions and with great care. Do you believe this to be true? Yes! That’s right! When in a restaurant (or resto as we say in French) the portions are fairly petite and the French eat smaller portions than us Swedes. Also, the French women don’t ”snack”. I’ve been told off by some French men for eating too much popcorn or sweets when going to the cinema on a date. The French women simply turn it down by saying: ” No thank you. I’m
Really? Does that mean that you are boyfriend/girlfriend and exclusive after that? Ha-ha. No! You don’t really start labelling the relationship until after you’ve met each other’s friends, etc. But normally the French don’t wait as long as the Swedes to make the relationship official. What happens on a typical date? A typical first date is just to meet up for drinks. Sometimes you might go to a resto on the first date. Sometimes, all though it’s not very common, your date might pick you up. But usually you just meet up at the venue. Normally, the man pays on the first date. Going dutch is simply not for Parisians.•
Jessica’s favourite pastimes Take a stroll along Avenue de New York in october to watch the leaves fall from the chestnut trees. The Marais district on Sundays. Eat a falafel on Rue de Rosiers, a Swedish cinnamon bun at the Centre Culturel Suèdois and watch Parisians and tourists. Go for a long walk along the artificial lakes in the Boulogne forest. Rent a bike (Vélib) and ”Veliba” around the city to discover new neighbourhoods. Picnics! Any time, any how. Pont des Arts, Jardin de Rangelagh, Avenue de Breuteil, Les Tuileries, Les Buttes Chaumont...
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mango stone ring 199 SEK (¤20) Shop.mango.com
miss dior le parfum michael kors watch
639 SEK (¤275) Prices vary. (Available where Dior fragrances are sold.)
2 335 SEK (¤230) Klockia.se (Also available at other stores where Michael Kors watches are sold.)
mango stones bangle 299 SEK (¤30) Shop.mango.com
H&M blouse with bow collar 107 SEK (¤13) Hm.com
Paris packing list By Magdalena Kocovska
ESSENTIALS Weekend Chic in Paris! Pack light and look fabulous. Do like the Parisians and keep a pair of ballet flats in your handbag.
chanel lipstick rouge noir
H&M ballet flats
400 SEK (¤47) Prices may vary. (Available where Chanel makeup is sold.)
99 SEK (¤10) Hm.com
DVF WRAP DRESS IN rum raisin red 3 725 SEK ((¤438) Harrods.com 28
ZARA studded ankle boot 799 SEK (¤60) Zara.com
rosebud salve H&M TROUSERS with gold zippers
98 SEK (¤12) Kicks.se
299 SEK (¤30) Hm.com
Magdalena’s top style tips BURBERRY TRENCHCOAT 9 300 SEK (¤1 095) Farfetch.com
Keep it simple. A wrap dress is flattering on all shapes and it’s easy to throw on and go from day to night. Choose one in a neutral colour or a fun print and play it up with shoes and accessories. Find your signature; it’s what makes you, and your style, unique. It can be anything from fragrance to a colour, to a piece of accessory or clothing.
dvf washed chiffon scarf 1 300 SEK (¤154) Eu.dvf.com
H&M handbag 249 SEK (¤20) Hm.com
Keep a scarf in your handbag – it’s the most versatile accessory and adds a touch of elegance. It’s perfect to throw on as a wrap when it gets chilly or to tie on your handbag for embellishment. Rosebud Salve – keep one in your handbag and one on your nightstand. The various ways to use this magical salve are endless. I use it for everything from moisturising and adding shine to my lips, healing cuticles and dry hands, to transforming eye shadows to lipsticks.
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STYLE
Will you be my
maid of honour? R E A L
W E D D I N G
TEXT ANN-CHARLOTTE LOVÉN PHOTOS GARRI FRISCHER SPECIAL THANKS TO MAID OF HONOUR SARA ANDERSSON 30
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STYLE
Bridesmaid Dresscode The wedding party and guests should follow the same dress code. ...... Bridesmaids should not wear black or white ...... The bridesmaids are expected to pay for their own hair and make up ...... Although a bridesmaid-bouquet is not necessary according to etiquette, the bridesmaid may carry a small bouquet that matches the brides ...... Being a bridesmaid is not equivalent to getting a free dress. If, on the other hand, the bride wishes to choose the dress - she will be expected to pay for it ...... It is sensible to choose dresses that can be worn again ...... Cover up shoulders and decolletage during the ceremony
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STYLE
maid or matron? According to tradition, a bridesmaid should be unmarried and/or not visibly pregnant. If so, she is called Matron of Honour. It is considered highly inappropriate for a married man or woman to walk down the aisle with someone other than their spouse. The Matron of Honour can instead receive the couple at the altar or simply walk behind them up the aisle without an escort. Should the Matron of Honour and the Usher / Best man be married to each other it is naturally fine for them to walk down the aisle together.
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STYLE
The Garter A friendship bracelet In sweden during the 1800s and 1900s it was customary for a close friend or sister to give the bride a garter. The garter was made by the giver and usually embroidered with flowers, pearls or lettering. The garter has these days lost its functionality, and is usually not handmade, but the tradition remains. A grown up friendship bracelet one might say.
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STYLE The bridesmaid’s clothing should be in tune with the brides’
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ESSENTIALS
SHOES 449 SEK (¤42) Bianco.se
bracelet 99 SEK/10 (¤11.5) Accessorize
mink stole 931 SEK (¤138) Etsy.com
lace dress 799 SEK (¤93) Zara
Bridesmaid lipstick 315 SEK (¤37) Face Stockholm
ESSENTIALS I’m getting married in the morning, Ding-dong the bells are going to chime, Pull out the stopper, Let’s have a whopper, But get me to the church on time.
clutch 1 263 SEK (¤147) BHLDN.com
clip on earrings nail polish 45 SEK (¤5) Kicks.se 36
62 SEK (¤7) etsy.com
ESSENTIALS
eau de parfum roller chloe 175 SEK (¤20) Sephora.com
Bride
nail polish chanel 173 SEK (¤20) Chanel
cluster drop earrings
wedding dress leya 12 900 SEK (¤1 499) Zetterberg
685 SEK (¤80) Kate Spade
shoes by menbur
biba feather cape
1 349 SEK (¤156) Brandos.se
950 SEK (¤110) Houseoffraser.co.uk
silver clutch by dune 600 SEK (¤70) Houseoffraser.co.uk
ivory lace garter clinique lipstick 240 SEK (¤28) Kicks.se
124 SEK (¤15) Etsy.com
powder compact 300 SEK (¤35) Estée Lauder 37
PORTRAIT
Mon sieur Cro co
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Adrien Forray The man behind new luxury brand Le Huitiéme. Get the inside scoop of how one man made his dream come true to start up his own luxury brand.
TEXT JELENA JANKOVIC PHOTOS LE HUITIÉME AND ANN-CHARLOTTE LOVÉN
W
ho is Adrien Forray? I am french, 27 years old. Recently I moved back to Paris after spending two years in Singapore. Prior to that I was living in Sweden for some years. My dream has always been to end up working with arts or in the luxury business. When I found out that I had the tools to create a brand of my own I think it was more challenging and funny. That is how and why I started it. Today I have my own brand and I work for a company specialising in exotic leather for the international luxury industry and that is also why I moved to Singapore. Describe yourself and your drive force in 2-3 words. Passionate, creative and geek. Seriously, geek because it helps me a lot to develop my websites and the image of what I do online. Creative to come up with the designs and Passionate because it keeps me going. So that is the 3 words. How much work have you put into developing your brand, and what do you think have made you not fail along the way but to actually give you the drive to continue and make the product?
”My family has been working with leather since 1817. I am really proud that I am the only one in my generation still working in the leather industry. If I make it with my own brand I will feel even more proud. So I think it is legitimate for me to say that we are in the leather goods business since 1817.”
I think I have not put enough work into it yet but the last two years I have put much more time. Now it is at least two full days a week to put things together and develop the products. It is not yet the full time job since I still need the other job. I want everything to be well prepared and that is why I take more time, but it is time I enjoy. But I can say that I have the brand in my mind all the time, I am always looking at things, arts, designs things in the streets I am always picking up ideas and I am always aware. Can you tell me what is the story behind your brand name? Hahaha I am still working on it. Ok, the story behind the brand name itself, there are two reasons that made this name. At first I thought of using my own name, but then I thought, hrmm not so good. First I am working with a lot of brands customers and designers, I don’t want them to feel I 39
Y PORTRAIT
ADRIEN FORRAY SKETCHING ON A NEW PIECE.
am working behind their back on similar things, so I wanted to keep this off. One day they will know it, but this way it is less problematic. Then I wanted to find a name that stands out, It is really difficult to find a brand name that stands out I can tell you that. When you target something in the high end luxury accessory you have to find a name that match your id. That is how we found this “Le Huitiéme” and this is positive for two things. It means number 8, and that is where all the luxury brands are located in Paris. Number 8 is also the lucky number in Asia and we value our Asian customers a lot. These are the two things that are really positive and in line with our objective. The last thing is the logo itself, which one of my friends that is a graphic designer put together. She started from the idea of using the figure 8 and then she saw the crocodile leather and she thought of using two crocodile scales together and do the number 8. So you see everything is in the logo, the luxury, the Asian luck, and the crocodile scales, so all together and that is the name and the logo story. Now we are working with promoting the ancient history of the leather, why I choose that specific line of work , how the ideas came up and we still try to see how we will put that information together, to build the history to the name. 40
It is widely known that a lot of people want to work in the fashion industry. What do you think makes it so special compared to working for example in the automotive industry? It is all the free goods, and it is true. I think it is one of the main thing seriously, it sounds funny but it is one thing that is actually true and me as well I appreciate it a lot. You get free stuff that you would not expected to get anywhere else. Everyone is wearing nice clothes and carrying nice bags. So it feels like you are apart of something that touches everyone and can bring interest to everyone. I think that fashion is really fashion these days and I think it is stronger then ever. Do you think it will stay that way? I think it is strong I think it is really strong, especially for the luxury part of it. During 2009 crisis nothing hap-
pened. Now people are a bit shaky about the economy but still all the high end luxury brands are showing really strong figures. Still there are some unexplored markets, India, China is only at the start and there is a lot of people really eager to get luxury stuff there, there is room for business. You have now got the opportunity to work with and visit the showrooms of Chanel and Hermès among other brands. How do you feel about getting the chance to work so closely with these people? And not to mention the free stuff that you get? I think..I don’t know it is..it feels good but you are still in the shadow in these big peoples names. However if feels good to be part of it and this is the place where I like to be. Maybe millions of people would kill for where I am, but I will not give it up.
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”You get free stuff that you would not expected to get anywhere else. Everyone is wearing nice clothes and carrying nice bags.” You have moved back to Paris and this is where you are developing your brand. Is Paris the place where you will stay or do you have other future adventures ahead of you? I hope I have more adventures. For a few years we will stay here and see how things go, there is a lot of places that I have not explored here and I am interested to discover them. But if I can get other opportunities later I might follow them, definitely. I would like to try New York if possible, or London also it is really close to Paris and that is good. I get to experience both cities by only living in just one. Asia I think I will wait a bit since I just
move back from there. I would like to see other cultures and then maybe a later we will consider it again, I don’t know. But for now we will settle here for a while and see how things go. Now that you have spent time in Asia, what is your perception of the biggest differences with women in Europe versus women in Asia, if you are looking into your line of work? The biggest differences in my line of work is the shopping behaviour. Should I save for this big bag or should I get the smaller bag. The lady in Asia will directly buy the bigger
bag. She will not even save for it, she will loan to have it. I have met a lot of people not in the fashion industry with regular jobs and they all had at least one LV bag in their wardrobe if not two or three, and a lot had them had the Chanel 2.55 bag already. I also saw a few with Hermès bags and a few with the crocodile Hermès. You can spot a lot of designer bags in that street and a lot of expensive bags in the street which you hardly see here, unless you go to the right spot of course. Do you think they are more interested in fashion or are they are more interested in luxury goods? I think they are more interested in the name not in the product it self. It is a culture for them - they need to get the goods quickly to show that their status is this level. Once they reach the status where they can afford it 41
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they just don’t think of it, they just buy it. You could say they are buying freaks. I think I saw just the outside part of the iceberg since I was in Singapore, but if you go to China I think it is even worse they can have the entire range of bags from the same brand and in different colours. When I talk to my friends in Paris talking about it wanting to buy an expensive wallet or belt they talk about it but they never really buy it so it is two different mindsets. What would you recommend to a woman whom wants to get a bag, but might not have a huge budget? Would you recommend them to save up for a real leather bag or buy 3-4 less expensive? Also what bag should every woman have in her closet? You need a big wallet there. I would say if you want to do a life saving for one handbag then you should go for a Birkin bag and then the second one would be the Chanel 2.55 I am not to much for a LV canvas bag even though it is affordable, but if your wallet has some limits and if you are willing to look for new things, I think it is quite interesting you look at new designers that have some kind of established image and you go for their best selling bag that should be quite affordable and you will se what you buy will get value over time. If you would have bought the Chanel bag ten years ago you wold have bought it 2-3 times cheaper than today. So if you pick the right designer it could be a good investment. So you think a woman should invest 42
in a quality handbag. At least one yes What is so special with customers in the luxury segment, what makes it so difficult to succeed in this segment? It is challenging there. The kind of customers you are looking for, they already have all those classics expensive Birkin, Kelly, crocodile versions in different colours. When they go to LV stores they buy the whole range in every colour. So if you want to be a player in this market you have to
come up with something exceptional, you have to come up with something extra. So I am still looking for that extra. What do you think makes your brand competitive with the big fashion houses? Today I have an Idea that we will be 100% custom bag oriented. As a small player we have a lot of flexibility to let the customer choose the material, the fittings, linings using our design. We will provide this service in a luxurious way that hopefully will make the difference. Is it difficult to find good people to work with? It is really difficult, you open your
door and you get hundreds of c.v.’s. Everyone wants to work in this industry. But if you look for partners you go for the ones that have a lot of connections established already because it is really helpful. I have been in this industry for 5 years now and I still don’t have enough contacts to go as fast as would like. Usually look for people with well established connections it is really difficult and costly to get. So far it has been me and some consulting friends. But I work with some customers in my regular job and they are hiring former directors from big brands that come with their big contact book and help them develop their network, but that will be the next step. It is really difficult to get to those people. If you would get a connection like that to open the doors for you, where do you see your self and your company in five to twenty years? I have a clear vision, we are promoting the Paris feeling so what we want is to have is to have a “store apartment” we don’t want to have two hundred stores world wide. We want to promote the fact that the customer is coming to our home that is why we call it the “store apartment” to make their dream handbag. In five years the goal is to have a place and for starters only i Paris where you can come and make your dream come true, your own handbag. So really, it’s all about exclusivity! - Yes Today we have the Iphone pockets.
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That is kind of the promoting for the name. But we also have a special order service where we meet with the customers to put together their orders. We really rely on those orders and want to bring those to the next level. I think in 20 years it will be this concept but in five cities closely chosen. I think that if you want to have a high value to the brand you need to put some strong borders. I can see today what the big groups are doing and I can see that the customers are getting tired of it. So if you want to keep up in the long run you have to frame it . If you would compare yourself to a designer or somebody that you are looking up to today who is that? In terms of creativity it is Karl Lagerfeld he is a machine in creativity. He is a good motivation because he has a strong way of working and focus. Thank you very much for the interview and for your time, it has been really interesting! Thank you!
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HOME
Ann-Charlotte Lovén
Style
At Home
Welcome to the home of Pouf! Magazine’s editor in chief Ann-Charlotte Lovén. TEXT JELENA JANKOVIC PHOTOS CARITA FILIPSSON
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ou’ve worked as an interior designer for many years and have your own design company: Angmar Interiors. Tell us about your
source of inspiration. The inspiration could come from anywhere. I work with many different styles and projects. I adjust the aesthetics and inspiration to my clients. When did you decide that you wanted to be an interior designer? My mother has always had a big interest in interior decorating. We used to joke about her changing the wallpapers every six months. Growing up, I just assumed that was normal. I never though about making a career out of it. As a little girl I wanted to be a fashion designer. I studied fashion design, and almost directly after my graduation my mother and aunt opened an interior design shop and were kind enough to give me a job. From that day it’s been interior design all the way. Tell us about the way you’ve decorated your home. What is typically you, and why? When we first moved in the apartment, which is a rental, looked nothing like it does now. The walls had not seen a paintbrush since the early nineties and the whole place was like stepping back 15-20 years in time.
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Ann-Charlottes’ favourite shops: Anthropologie Bukowski’s Market Göteborgs Auktionsverk Helis Hem H&M Home Laura Ashley Trademill Zara Home
HOME
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HOME
�My mother has always had a big interest in interior decorating. We used to joke about her changing the wallpapers every six months. Growing up, I just assumed that was normal.� 48
HOME
”My mother has always had a big interest in interior decorating. We used to joke about her changing the wallpapers every six months. Growing up, I just assumed that was normal.”
We just gave all the walls fresh paint in grey and a white with a hint of green. The landlord was kind enough to put in a new grey linoleum floor in the kitchen. We also put some black stickers over the kitchen wall tiles to go with the black and white scheme. These simple measures made a huge difference. I think what is typically me is the mix of things. And the calm colour scale. My husbands contributions are loads of books, vinyls and record players.
I love to throw in quirky details such as sequins and taxidermy to shake things up a bit. to throw in quirky details such as sequins and taxidermy to shake things up a bit. Do you have a favourite room? I love my bedroom! The white wall colour with a hint of green is so calming. I love to crawl into bed with a huge cup of tea and watch an episode (or three) of my favourite TV-series.
How would you describe your personal design aesthetic? I really like a calm colour scale in my own home. Also, being a libra, I’m a huge fan of balance and symmetry.
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HOME
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HOME
“My home will probably never be finished.”
Do you consider your home finished or are you constantly rearranging things and coming up with new ideas? My home will probably never be finished. I really enjoy changing things around and trying out new ideas. Do you collect anything? Oh yes! Many things! But I’m not a ”typical” collector that searches high and low for stuff. Some of the things I’m always on the lookout for are: faux bamboo, large semiprecious stones, anything vintage Fornasetti, pineapples, taxidermy. The list could go on... Last but not least: Your most important rule when it comes to decorating? It’s such a cliché, but the most important thing is that you are happy and comfortable in your own home. Don’t bother with what’s trendy or what your friends might think. A home is all about the people who live in it.
Top tips for fixing up your rental Paint or wallpaper. Make sure to check with your landlord beforehand. Sometimes they might even do the job for you, or offer to pay the paint if you do the job yourself. Put stickers on tiles that you don’t like. You can get them in most hardware stores. Usually they measure 15x15cm which is pretty much the standard in rental apartments. If you don’t like the floors, cover them with large rugs. Or check with your landlord if they might consider putting in a new floor for you. Paint the kitchen cabinets. Change door knobs, handles etc on cupboards and doors. Just make sure you save the old ones for when you move out. Always ask the lessor before making any permanent changes or you might end up having to pay for putting things back as they were.
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ESSENTIALS
hexagon mirrorS 129 SEK/10 (¤15) H&M Home
FRAMED DRAWING 919 SEK (¤110) Oscar & Clothilde
pink cushion 695 SEK (¤85) Laura Ashley
CURTAIN HOLDBACK 495 SEK (¤60) Laura Ashley
Vase 489 SEK (¤59) Oscar & Clothilde
ESSENTIALS Create the look of The Lovén’s home with these essentials. Paint the walls in a medium grey for a dramatic effect.
bookend 449 SEK (¤55) Oscar & Clothilde
PAINT LADY 1032 Jotun
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ESSENTIALS
table lamp 2 090 SEK (¤254) Laura Ashley
throw 2 250 SEK (¤273) Missoni Home
mirror 1 095 SEK (¤133) Oscar & Clothilde
sequin cushion cover 129 SEK (¤15) H&M Home
pagoda cushion cover Dome
zebra rug 3 990 SEK (¤485) Bazaar
ENGLISH THREE SEATER 10 990 SEK (¤1334) Mio
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WINE & DINE
aut UMN D I N N E R PA R T Y
TEXT ANN-CHARLOTTE LOVÉN PHOTOS JONNY LINDH SPECIAL THANKS TO FÅFÄNGANS ANTIK & SÄRÖ TRÄDGÅRD 54
DINNER
PARTY Manners Proper etiquette when invited to someones home.
Preparations
Dress to the occasion. Not making an effort is rude towards the host and hostess who has made an effort preparing the party. Do not invite other people or ask to bring someone along. Show up on time or maximum fifteen minutes late. Being late or early is equally bad mannered. As a guest, you are expected to be nice. Leave bad temper behind. Do not show up empty handed. Appropriate gifts are: Flowers (not potted), books, wine or anything homemade such as cookies, jam etc.
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Showing up Remove your shoes and put on your indoor/formal shoes. Only walk around shoeless in your own home. Small clutches or purses can be brought inside, but leave larger handbags with your coat. If giving a flower bouquet; remove the wrapping paper or cellophane before entering. Hand the gift to the hostess if you are visiting a couple. Greet the host and hostess first, continue with the other guests. Make sure you introduce yourself to everyone.
When the host/hostess announces that dinner is served the guests politely finishes their ongoing conversations and heads towards the dinner table.
At the dinner table
Never place personal belongings such as purses, mobile phones, lighters etc on the dinner table. The napkin is to be placed in your lap as soon as seated. It is not to be put back on the table until the entire meal is finished. Never wipe your nose with a napkin.
Pre dinner Never sit on someones throw pillows. Place them behind your back or move them to the side.
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It is ok to drink water before the welcome toast, but not wine or beer. A stemmed glass is to be held with 2-4 fingers by the the top of the stem, with support from the cup. Holding the cup looks bad and leaves greasy marks.
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In Sweden, it is not customary to cling glasses during a toast. This is, on the other hand the custom in many other European countries. Do not start eating before it is announced by the host/hostess, or before they start. At formal events; never start eating until everyone at the table have been served. It doesn’t matter how many are you are at the table. In between bites, the cutlery is to be placed on the plate, not like oars hanging out on the sides from it. Stay at the table until the meal is finished. Do not apply makeup (not even lipstick) at the dinner table. Do ask your host/hostess if you could be of help, but don’t take initiative to clear up if not asked. This applies to both men and women. Don’t get drunk. A god rule of thumb is not to stay more than four hours. You don’t want to overstay your welcome.
After Say thank you within a week. Close friends can call, text or e-mail. If it’s a new acquaintance or if the soirée was of the formal kind, it is most appropriate so send a hand written note.
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DINNER
PARTY Manners Proper etiquette for entertaining guests.
Preparations
Never split up a couple. Always invite them both (unless, off course, it’s a specific theme such as girls night, a work dinner, etc). Do ask guests if they have any allergies before setting the menu. Try to prepare as much as possible in advance. This way you’ll be calm, organised and ready to mingle with your guests instead of setting the table or fixing your hair. Well chosen music helps set the atmosphere. Remember to keep it low enough not to disturb conversations. Check out Pouf!’s Autumn playlist
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Stay close to the entrance, or keep an eye on it since you are supposed to great the guests when they arrive. The guests shouldn’t have to look for you.
Welcoming
Hand your guests a drink as soon as possible to make them feel welcome. Accept a hostess gift with gratitude and unwrap it at once. Flowers should immediately be set in water and placed where everyone can admire them. Never put two bouquets in the same vase. Introduce guests who are not familiar with one an other.
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At the dinner Invite your guests to the dinner table by saying something simple such as: ”Dinner is served”. The dinner starts when the host/hostess raises their glass and welcomes the guests. Since guests should not start eating before the host/hostess, invite them to start or simply start eating yourself, the guests fill follow your example. (Keep in mind that you should not start unless everyone is served.) Should a guest spill, don’t make a fuss about it. Tidy it up and continue with the conversation. Never make guests feel uncomfortable. Leave all glasses on the table during the entire meal. Don’t put your guests to work by asking them to clear the table or do the washing up. Don’t make a big deal if a guest want to leave early. Simply express that you are sorry that they have to leave.
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After If guests stay too long try to make them get the hint by removing drinks, snacks, or by discreetly cleaning up.
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since 1681
Daily online auctions at www.goteborgsauktionsverk.se
WINE & DINE
MENU Chef and food stylist Katja Palmdahl has created an elegant autumn menu that will wow your guests and allow you to spend less time in the kitchen.
RECIPES KATJA PALMDAHL PHOTOS JONNY LINDH 62
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Starter
4 port
Chanterelle Royal A royal is a smooth egg creme that is oven baked in a low temperature. To celebrate autumn it is flavoured with chanterelles and roe. Save a few of the small and pretty fried chanterelles to use as decoration.
Preheat the oven to 100°C and take out four beautiful glasses that will stand steady in a baking dish. Fry the chantarelles and garlic with some butter in a sauce pan. Pour in the cream and milk and bring to a boil. Mix the chantarelles smooth with the grated parmesan using a hand mixer. Beat the eggs lightly and blend with the warm chantarelle mixture. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Apportion the cream in the glasses and cover with plastic. Place them in the baking dish. If the glasses are low, you might want to pour some water in to the baking dish for an even heat. Bake the cream until just set, about 15 minutes. If the cream is cold when placed in the oven, or if cold water has been used for the Bainmarie, it might take slightly longer. Remove the plastic once out of the oven and leave to cool on a tray. Store cold until serving.
3 dl fresh chanterelles in pieces 1/2 finely chopped clove of garlic Some butter for frying 1 dl double cream 3/4 dl milk 1/2 dl freshly grated parmesan cheese 2 egg yokes 1 egg salt and black pepper for seasoning Topping: 4 tbsp grated and toasted sourdough bread 1 tbsp toasted almond flakes 2 tbsp cress 2 tbsp sour cream 100 g bleak roe (Kalix caviar)
Take out the Royal about 30 minutes before serving to let temperature rise and flavours blossom. Sprinkle the toasted sourdough, flaked almond and cut some cress over. Place some sour cream on each and apportion the roe. Decorate with a small chanterelle and a pinch of black pepper over the roe.
Serve with a chilled champagne such as CuveĂŠ Jean de la Fontain. Dry, somewhat bread-like flavour with sweetness and a hint of grapefruit and apple.
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Entree
Baked haddock with late summer tomatoes and horseradish A beautiful and light dish with a lot of flavour. It is easy to prepare and to serve. Offer your guests fresh wax beens and a nice lemon flavoured mash as side dishes. Start with the mash which can be kept warm. Boil the potatoes in salted water. Once cooked, discard the cooking water and add milk and butter. Lightly beat the mash with an electric mixer and add lemon and salt to taste. If making the mash early to be kept warm, or to heat it up later, it’s a good idea to make it slightly loose. Heat the oven to 125°C. Salt the haddock with flake salt and leave for about 30 minutes. Quickly rinse the salt off in cold water. Place the fish in a buttered baking dish. Fold the fillets if they are small. Halve the tomatoes and mix with the chopped shallots, salt and a little bit of black pepper. Place the tomatoes between the fish and pour on the oil.
Serve a nice Bourgogne, preferably Laroche with this dish. It has a dry and fruity flavour with barrel character.
Cover the baking dish with plastic and bake for about 25 minutes, until the fish is cooked through. If you’d like to check the temperature, I recommend 50°C. The beans should boil 4-5 minutes in lightly salted water. Toss them with the spinach in a bit of butter. If you’d like to boil the beans in advance they’ll remain beautifully green if chilled in ice cold water immediately after boiling. Serve with grated horseradish and freshly cut chervil.
Tip! The haddock can be salted, rinsed and then placed in the baking dish with the tomatoes early during the day. Cover it in plastic and place in the fridge. The mash can also be prepared in the morning. Reheat it over a low heat with some extra milk. 64
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4 port 700 g fillets of haddock. Skin and bone free. 4 tsp flake salt 400 g cherry tomatoes, preferably different kinds 1 shallot, finely chopped 2 tbsp virgin olive or rapeseed oil Freshly ground black pepper Mashed potatoes with lemon: 400 g peeled high starch potatoes 20 g butter 1 dl milk 1 lemon, finely grated zest Sides: 250 g wax beens, tended 1 bag of baby spinach. About 65g 1 tbsp butter Horseradish, scraped or grated 1/2 pot of chervil
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Tip! The savoyardi biscuits can be halved in advance. If you have many guests, simply prepare them in the afternoon and put on the blackberries just before serving.
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Dessert
Blackberry tart with lemon An elegant, yet easy dessert that makes a light and fresh end to this meal. The most difficult element in this recipe is to divide the savoyardi biscuits that are so deliciously delicate! Use a sharp, jagged knife. Gently halve the biscuits lengthwise. Mix the mascarpone with creme fraiche and vanilla sugar. Spread this on the bottom half of the biscuits. Spritz some lemon curd on the mascarpone mixture and top with blackberries. Put the lid on and dust with icing sugar.
SERVE THIS WINE WELL CHILLED!
4 port 4 savoyardi biscuits 3 tbsp mascarpone 1 tbsp creme fraiche 1/2 tsp vanilla sugar 3 tbsp lemon curd approximately 20 blackberries Icing sugar
To this I recommend a South African wine, Nederburg.
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HEALTH & BEAUTY
blues
fight the autumn
When I got the task from Pouf! Magazine to give advice on how to “cheat” seasonal depression, the outside temperature was 36 degrees Celsius. I was thinking about how people feel that live in different parts of the world and how the weather affects their mood.
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inter will surely come, and we will try to prepare for it in the best possible way.
I think my first advice to anyone who can afford it would be:
Extend your summer The holiday season traditionally begins in June and ends by August. For those who live in places with a large number of sunny days it’s not so dramatic to have a vacation period in this time. But for those who do not have that privilege, it is recommended that they try to plan for vacation in September or even better in October to southern parts of the world. It is also recommended to travel during the winter months to warmer climates, since it is very important to get daylight for as long as possible.
Use your breaks to take a walk outside! Exposure to daylight influences proper rhythm of sleep and wakefulness. Melatonin is a neurotransmitter that activates sleep. When the daylight is shorter, the release of melatonin begins much earlier than usual, so the exposure to daylight is very impor-
foods rich in L-tryptophan (dark chocolate, bananas, fruit with a corewalnuts, almonds, egg white, dried spirulina, cod, raw soybeans, Parmesan cheese, sesame seeds, cheese, sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, pork, turkey, chicken, beef, salmon, lamb, perch, eggs, wheat flour, oatmeal, potatoes, milk, rice), because it is a precursor to serotonin, which brings a smile to the face.
”The most important thing is to recognize depression and seek professional counseling when depression is identified.” tant because of the stable circadian rhythm. The blue light from the spectra suppresses melatonin and allows wakefulness.
Fourth advice: For those who cannot expose themselves to sunlight during the day, the recommendations are lamps with bright white light. My third recommendation is:
Eat Healthy food Another advice would be to:
Expose yourself to daylight. At a time when the majority of the day is spent inside the office it is very difficult to get enough daylight. 68
A Balanced diet contributes to the well-being of the body. Try to eat healthy foods and discard junk food, bad fats and sugar. To improve the mood try to eat more
Be Physically Active This implies regular physical activity and exercise such as swimming, walking, cycling, hiking, etc. You do not have to be obsessed with the sport. It is quite enough to every day walk about 5 km, of course all in accordance with the physical stamina and physical health. Physical activity stimulates and increases concentration and readiness for action in everyday life.
Do not expect others to change your life
Fifth advice:
Very often people blame various life circumstances or other people for their discontent, misery and hard life. The same goes for blaming the wrong climate conditions for our bad mood and surrender to the idea that nothing can change, it will be the same as opening the door to depression. As long as you expect other people to change and the environment and living conditions to be as you desire, you will NOT feel better. The realisation that all the emotions come from the way we think about other people and happenings helps us to come back to ourselves and start to live a rational life. If you notice that you have an increased appetite, increased need for sleep, lack of energy, a need for isolation, apathy, emotional instability, and it is in winter, that means you did not listen to me and you were not persistent in tasks set out. Unfortunately, regardless of preven-
tion, development of clinical symptoms can occur. Seasonal depression is a disorder that has biopsychosocial causes. It is also more common in northern parts of the world due to the shorter duration of daylight, so there is a disturbance in the rhythm for being awake and at sleep. The most important thing is to RECOGNIZE DEPRESSION AND SEEK professional counseling when depression is identified. I hope you will take this advice for your own enjoyment and that you will meet this winter with a little change of attitude. Although long and cold, it can be magical.
Tips Extend your summer Expose yourself to daylight Eat Healthy food Be Physically Active Do not expect others to change your life
TEXT Dr Dusica Popovic, Psychiatrist and Psychotherapist PHOTO Marko Vesterinen 69
HEALTH & BEAUTY
Fall is an ideal time for
D r Nevenka V. Dok
manović
skin care
Autumn is an ideal time for skin care and all the dermatological treatments we held off doing during the summer period and the intense sun. Therefore autumn is the right period to restore sun-damaged skin and prepare it for the winter. TEXT Dr NEVENKA V. DokmanoviC - SkinMedic.co.rs
A
long with the summer clothes, facial creams that were used during this period should be disposed. In Autumn, the sebaceous glands are less active, so therefore we miss our natural moisturising factors, which we can compensate for with appropriate care or a visit to the dermatologist. At home facial care is first and foremost about proper cleansing, meaning washing the face with water and the appropriate cleansing gel for your type of skin. After cleansing use toners that do not contain alcohol, and then apply a moisturising cream, this is to be done on a daily basis.
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Facial cream for this time of the year should contain vitamin C that strengthens the skin. For a more mature skin, creams that contain retinol are suitable since they have powerful rejuvenating and refreshing effect. For a stronger hydration of particularly dry skin suitable products are creams containing urea, hyaluronan, jojoba, and Shea oil. And not to be forgotten, hand cream as well as gloves for colder season. Hand and facial cream should be applied on the skin at the latest 30 min prior to leaving the house. In the evening after washing the face, apply nourishing cream to the face, do not rub, but
gently tap in, and let it act for 20 minutes, do not leave it in all night, or you will wake up with a puffy face. In this period there are a number of dermatological treatments that can be done, to prepare for winter. One of the treatments is a facial mesotherapy, where a vitamin injection is added to the face containing vitamins and hyaluronan acid, that have a hydrating effect. This is done with the aim to obtain more radiant and healthy looking face, neck, decolletage and hands. Chemical peels are usually also done in this time frame, which deeply cleanses the skin of impurities and dead cells, but also removes freckles that we get in the summer sun, and make the skin more evenly and nurtured. Bio revitalisation for the face is necessary as preparation for more colder days, as this hydrates the skin in the fastest possible way. With this treatment we hydrate the complete face, neck and chest with products containing pure hyaluronan, and thus restoring the texture of the
skin and stimulate fibroblasts that produce collagen and elastin, which are responsible for the beautiful and toned shape of the face. After the treatment the skin is smooth, secured with an antioxidant protection, and ready to fight the dry and polluted indoor air, as well as against external frost. Skin care in the autumn-winter period has to be intense and carried out continuously, otherwise we can greet the first rays of spring with dry red skin and considerably older looking skin.
“Skin care in the autumn-winter period has to be intense and carried out continuously, otherwise we can greet the first rays of spring with dry red skin and considerably older looking skin.�
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STYLE
the
bra an
everyday
lu x ury
A guide to the brassiere
M
ore than several hundred years ago, the bra was discovered. At that point in time probably for back-relief as the only purpose. Today, the bra is not only a necessity for many women, but also an everyday luxury that woman can treat them selves to. Many women are of the opinion that the “nice bra” is to be saved for special occasions and the old worn-in bra should be used every day. Rather have two good bras than ten bad that serve no purpose. In my opinion this is wrong, and it should be the other way around. It is the “nice bra” that should be used every day, this is the close-toyour-body-everyday-luxury that most women can afford and therefore should enjoy. A good rule of thumb is: Always think quality instead of quantity. Rather have two good bras than ten bad that serve no purpose. There are many different bra manufacturers who are wonderfully talented in producing lingerie, and have models that fit most women bodies and breasts. Some of them are: Chantelle, Triumph, Swegmark and Abecita. There are many different types of bras that meet different needs and suit different bust.
TEXT Aleksandra Jankovic Vlahovic 72
The Soft Bra If the underwire feels uncomfortable you should choose a soft bra. Women with large breasts should choose padded soft bras with padded straps for optimal lift.
The Minimizer The Sports Bra In sports both the breasts and skin are exposed to extreme stress, and even more for those with a heavy bust. Therefore it is extremely important to have a sports bra that is made of material that transports sweat and have reinforcements that hold the breasts firmly in place.
This model makes the breasts look up to a whole size smaller. It is made to distribute the bust and give it a flatter shape.
A good rule of thumb is: Always think quality instead of quantity
The Balconette Suitable for small to large bust. It lifts the breasts upwards. Typically low cut. Good choice for most dresses.
The Jumper Bra It is particularly important to use a good bra if the bust is larger than D cup. The bra must be of good quality and stable for the best support. This bra is unpadded and is best suited to half a large bust.
The Molded Bra The Push-up Padded bra that fits small to medium-large cup sizes. Often used for deeper cleavages. This model can make your breasts look bigger as it has additional padding up at the sides. It presses the breasts to the middle instead of lifting them.
Available as both padded and unpadded. Ideal for tight clothing. For versatility choose a nude coloured that will go with almost anything.
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HEALTH & BEAUTY
Red Lipstick A colour suitable for all women? If you would Google the colour red, some of the search results you will find are: strawberries, danger, passion, love and anger. But the colour red also associates with women, power, elegance and class. And really, have women ever been this powerful, dominant and on the go? TEXT JELENA JANKOVIC MAKE UP MILICA JEVTIC & NATASA KRSTIC MODELS MILICA JEVTIC, JELENA JANKOVIC & JELENA JOVIC
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HEALTH & BEAUTY
C
an you picture it: a woman in a little black dress with red lipstick walking into a room full of people, what a sight! Most likely all eyes would turn to her as she walks by. For centuries women have been wearing this stunning colour and all of them reflected such confidence, beauty, pride and sophistication and finally red has found it’s way back. But many women are still afraid of wearing red. Maybe it’s the intimidation by the attention it draws. For years now, we have been using the non-colour lipsticks, looking sweet and au naturel not to draw any un-necessary attention. Stylish as the natural look may be, there is something magical about red lipstick. But is the colour red the right one for everyone? Pouf Magazine did a test with 3 women including myself. We all had different skin tones, hair colours and hair length to find out if all women really can wear red lipstick. The outcome? YES we can all wear red lipstick!
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HEALTH & BEAUTY
Red is all in your head Make up artist and actress Milica Jevtic makes a point that ”wearing red is all in your head”. If you let yourself believe that red is the colour for you, it will fit you perfectly. Any woman can most certainly wear red lipstick and look fabulous. Milica lets Pouf!‘s readers in on what to think about when putting on make up and lipstick: Use a primer, it will make your skin even and radiant, and make the make up last longer. Prior to applying your lipstick use some loose powder on your lips to dry them out. Apply the lipstick with a lip brush, this will make the lipstick last longer and look better. Lip pen can be applied both prior or after the lipstick, there are no rule for this. If the colour of your teeth is white - any colour of red is fine. However if your teeth are a bit yellow watch out for coral colours that will make your teeth look even more yellow, in this case use cooler shades of red.
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HEALTH & BEAUTY
DIARY OF AN ACRYLIC-SCEPTIC Pouf! Magazine’s Editor in chief tries out fake nails.
I
t all started with me getting fed up with my dry, chipping nails. No matter how I tried they just wouldn’t work with me. I did everything right: Filed in the right direction, used oils, lotions, hardening base coats, slept with moisturising gloves. You name it - I’ve tried it. Nothing worked. Eventually I decided to try acrylics. For me, the important thing was to keep them natural-looking so that no one would notice. The part about no one noticing is very important to me. You see, I’m not one of those girls who likes a lot of attention. I like to keep things subtle and low-key. I think of it as sophisticated, although some might call it boring. But that’s in the eye of the beholder. So, the big question is: Can false nails ever pass as real?
TEXT ANN-CHARLOTTE LOVÉN ILLUSTRATION KRISTINA HULTKRANTZ
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DAY 1 Right after my appointment at the nail salon I run in to a friend. She asked where I’d been and, still shaken from the experience of having pieces of acrylic stuck to my fingertips, I was too baffled to lie. She convinced me that the nails looked good, but I’m sure she was just being polite. Later on at home my husband didn’t say a word to remark my new nails. A asked him a few days later what he thought. He said he thought they looked good, but admitted he couldn’t tell the difference.
DAY 2
DAY 3
Working at Angmar Interiors. No one noticed. I looked closely for suspicious looks, but without luck. Maybe this look can be pulled off? Later that day I went to see my mother and little sisters hoping someone would make a remark. They didn’t.
Met up with Pouf! Magazine’s CEO Jelena for drinks. Since Jelena is aware of my project I was sure she’d comment on them. I made several attempts to get a remark from her by absently touching random things on the table or holding my glass close to my face whilst observing her reactions. Nothing! After about two hours she finally said something: ” So you haven’t gone to get your nails done yet?” Bingo! I’m finally getting somewhere with this experiment.
DAY 4 Birthday party at my inlaws. A goldmine of honesty, but I did not notice one single glance towards my hands, let alone any comments. Bingo! I’m finally getting somewhere with this experiment.
DAY 5 Judgement day! Dinner at my best friends house. This woman is a fierce antagonist of anything fake. Especially nails. Nervous and with a defensive speech prepared I sat down for dinner. But I was in no need of a speech since no remarks were made, nor did I work up the courage to ask her honest opinion. As I walked home that night I couldn’t help but think that she was only being tactful.
THE VERDICT This project has actually changed my opinion of fake nails. Sure, I’m still no fan of the thick square acrylic nails with white french tips that first comes to mind when one thinks of acrylic nails. What I do like are natural looking, oval shaped fake nails that aren’t too long. Keeping it natural looking is key in my opinion! Will I continue with it? - I would if I had the patience to keep up the maintenance and the appointments. They did, after all look good. Unfortunately I’m now back to the drawing board since the quality of my nails still are pretty bad.
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HEALTH & BEAUTY
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EMMAKISSTINA
POCKET MIRRORS
Kristina’s Top Style Tips: Don’t be afraid of color! Dress up even if just to go to the grocery store. Wear what makes you happy.
GARNIER NORDIC ESSENTIALS
REVLON JUST BITTEN
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HEALTH & BEAUTY
IN HER BATHROOM CABINET Tell us about the products in your cabinet and why you like them.
Kristina Hultkrantz
I’m a bit of a drugstore darling. Department store beauty counters are so intimidating, I never dare to look at anything with commissioned sellers hovering. I love being able to try new products and test out several colors with out breaking the bank. I think there are many budget options that are very good, if not better than brand name products.
Beauty cabinet staples: Lots of moisturizing creams, lotions and lip balms. Swedish winter does a number on my sensitive skin.
Beauty icon: Can’t go wrong with a classic Marilyn Monroe or Brigitte Bardot look. I don’t think they’ll ever go out of style. I love eyeliner!
Hair products: Loving these popular hair argan oils. Makes my fine long locks even more silky, plus they smell amazing!
Lipstick or lipgloss? Favorite brand and colour? Lipstain! I want to be able to kiss my boyfriend without being sticky. Love Revlon’s Just Bitten Kissable Balm Stains, my mom brought me from the States. Too bad we don’t have Revlon in Sweden, or I’d get all the colors.
Go-to nail polish? Anything with lots of glitter.
Daytime makeup routine? I like to look really fresh with a nice glow during the day. No heavy foundations, just mineral powders, bronzer and blush with a touch of shimmer on my skin. Defined brows, lots of black mascara and a lipstain with a bit of a punch to it, like fuchsia.
Nighttime skincare regime? I’ve finally found a skincare line my skin loves Garnier’s Nordic Essentials... and I’ve tried everything from Dermalogica to Clinique. Love that it’s a waterless routine and smells of rose.stain with a bit of a punch to it, like fuchsia.
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george the barman
No one is a bigger snob than your barman WINE & DINE
George James
THE barman who has worked his way up from pulling pints in pubs, to shaking gimlets for presidents. In each issue George sneaks you in behind the bar of London’s most fashionable events. He’ll even share a drink with you. Why? He loves to drink and wants you to love the drinks he makes.
TEXT GEORGE JAMES ILLUSTRATION KRISTINA HULTKRANTZ 82
W
e come to your birthday party, your wedding, or even your funeral and we are rarely, if ever, impressed. It’s not because of the waste of money - we have none; it’s not because of the florist you used because, frankly, we didn’t notice the flowers, and it’s not because you had foie gras with pear chutney on the menu, because we stashed our own collection of canapés behind the bar (that’s what we are doing when we are checking things under the bar) and we like them. It’s because of the drinks you want served. We don’t think that they are any good. This could apply to you doing a barbecue party for friends or it could be the wedding of a Saudi prince to a Russian oil baroness, but no matter who you are, you will have fallen into one of two traps. You wanted standard drinks? You are boring. You wanted fabulous cocktails that no one has ever had before? You are an idiot.
damn good martini” but not once have I seen either of these drinks reach the other side of the bar. Aside from the cocktails? OK champagne can be alright for a party but really it’s just bubbly wine, and wine when you actually think about it is a bit like sweet vinegar, and I’m talking good wines, not your average stuff. Everyone wants to save money on beer (because it’s beer) so you end up serving some cheap brand which you wouldn’t even bother steeling (we are all master thieves), and for a soft drink people seem to only have the imagination to combine a couple of fruit juices and give it a silly name. Sometimes I wish I was a chef. Chefs and cocktail barman have had a symbiotic relationship for many
mouth will ever savour. And with the current trend being to source food locally, it can often mean lengthy and costly research projects into finding out who can hang my Jersey beef and transport it to the National Gallery in London for the Minister of Jersey, who can ship my Cray fish from Norway to the Swedish embassy in London while keeping them alive. But people will pay for this because they know that quality food is worth paying top dollar for, and if an expert, like that chef, says it should be a certain way, that’s the way it’s going to be. But on the bar it’s a different story. Everyone thinks they know best when it comes to alcohol, the reason being, they drink alcohol. Well, I eat food but I still haven’t really mastered scrambling eggs. Everyone is a wine expert, especially if they once splashed out a grand on a Chablis or if they were given a Pinot Noir by someone who really is into his wine. But being rich doesn’t give you taste. They think that because they love lychees for breakfast then a lychee martini would be a hit. Well they are wrong. And I am bitter. I don’t like serving rubbish to people, I like serving the best, because I can do it. I’m doing the line cook’s job while the guest is wearing head chef’s hat. Let me be creative, let me do my job, I’m not going to go crazy and start making a cumquat mojito, I’m just going to give you good honest booze well mixed and served in the right glass, with the right garnish.
“I have worked at every kind of posh party, from Bar mitzvah’s for Billionaires to orgies for art collectors and yet I still feel like I haven’t been impressed.”
I have worked at every kind of posh party, from Bar mitzvah’s for Billionaires to orgies for art collectors and yet I still feel like I haven’t been impressed. The best drinks that I have ever made, for anyone, have been mine. I used the Prince’s ingredients sure, but I didn’t follow his recipe. For example, I work with a polish guy who makes the best Moscow Mule you will ever try, he puts his own twist on it with a bit of fresh ginger and lime juice, I also work with an ex actor who nails vodka martinis that would make Daniel Craig ad lib “that’s a
decades now. They give you quail you give them gin. It works. But I’m jealous of the chefs I know. My favourite chef is a very arrogant short man from Newcastle who consistently talks at a volume of eleven out of ten. No one likes the guy on a personal level and I’m no exception, but I can forgive him, because of his food. He is obsessed with sourcing the best food, and has not been shy of slapping extra zeros on the bill to make sure he’s serving the best. And it is, it really is, textures, tastes, the presentation is fantastic, he expresses himself through his food, and out of this angry short little man comes the most exquisite bites that your
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WINE & DINE
Classic CO C KTA I L
Moscow Mule
“I love this cocktail, specifically my polish friend’s version. It’s got more of a kick to it than the standard, but I think it’s a good kick. He mastered it during the wedding of an Australian redneck to the daughter of a Saudi Millionaire, good luck to them.” TEXT AND RECIPE GEORGE JAMES ILLUSTRATION KRISTINA HULTKRANTZ
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Ingredients for the classic 1 part Vodka A dash of Angostura bitters 2 parts Ginger Beer 3 Lime wedges
Preparation Put three wedges of lime in a highball glass. Put in a healthy dose of vodka and a dash of bitters. Muddle these together until thoroughly limey. Fill the glass with ice and top with ginger beer. Stir with cocktail spoon until the glass freezes.
Pouf! it up! If you are feeling brave halve the ginger beer and use fresh shredded ginger and top with soda water. It’s fiery, but Tomaz would approve.
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