UK-USA Marketing Strategy Report - Miller Harris - NTU FMB

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Poppy West N0731532 UK-USA Marketing Strategy Report 2018

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INTRODUCTION METHODOLOGY

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PART I: WHERE IS THE BRAND NOW? BRAND HISTORY BRAND OVERVIEW BRAND ESSENCE BRAND AUDIT PRODUCTS IDENTITY PRISM BENEFIT LADDER BRAND HEALTH SOCIAL AUDIT THE UK TARGET CONSUMER THE UK MARKET UK COMPETITORS AND POSITION PORTER’S 5 FORCES SWOT ANALYSIS UK PESTLE ANALYSIS ANSOFF’S MATRIX

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PART II: WHERE SHOULD THE BRAND GO? BRAND VISION AND OBJECTIVES WHY THE US? THE US MARKET THE US TARGET CONSUMER US COMPETITIORS AND POSITION US PESTLE ANALYSIS

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PART III: HOW WILL THE BRAND GET THERE? UK OPTTIMISATION STRATEGY US MARKET ENTRY STRATEGY SWOT ANALYSIS OF THE STRATEGY STORE ENVIRONMENT US PROMOTION STRATEGY BRAND AMBASSADOR PLAN PROGRESSION

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CONCLUSION REFERENCES IMAGE REFERENCES BIBLIOGRAPHY APPENDIX

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CONTENTS

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INTRODUCTION

This report will look at the way that luxury UK perfumer Miller Harris can expand into the US market. Through analysis and research of the brand, the UK and US markets and the different consumers, a detailed marketing strategy and promotion plan will be created that outlines the best way for Miller Harris to launch in the US.

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METHODOLOGY PRIMARY RESEARCH - - - - - - -

Online survey of 100 people (in the appendix) New York research FIT Panel Talk Y-Pulse Talk Coburn Communications PR Talk In-Store observations (Stratford Pop-Up and Colchester concession in Fenwicks) Conversations with employees

METHOD An online survey was created though Survey Monkey to observe the current brand health in terms of perceptions, awareness and usage in the UK. The survey was distributed on Facebook in a fashion-based group page, which has predominantly women 30+ users. This was a good way to reach the target consumer as if the survey was distributed through personal pages it will only reach a younger demographic who would have never heard of the brand as they are not who gets targeted. The survey got 100 respondents.

SECONDARY RESEARCH - - - -

Online resources such as Mintel and WGSN were used to research the markets and support the primary research Marketing books were used to aid the formation of the situational analysis. Magazines and journals Social media platforms were observed to get an insight into how well Miller Harris were performing on social media. 10


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PART I: 12


WHERE IS THE BRAND NOW? 13


BRAND HISTORY Miller Harris was founded in 2000 by Lyn Harris. Lyn spent five years training in Paris, then in Grasse at Robertet, the world’s leader in natural aromatic ingredients. Following this, Lyn successfully created bespoke fragrances for clients before founding Miller Harris Perfumer London.

In 2006 Jane Birkin collaborated with Miller Harris on a bespoke scent created to evoke memories of her past - L’Air de Rien and in 2010 Samantha Cameron gifted Miller Harris candles to Michelle Obama, pushing Miller Harris into the media’s spotlight.

In 2014 Lyn Harris left Miller Harris and turned her focus to a new venture, leaving Miller Harris in the hands of current CEO Sarah Rotherham, but Miller Harris’s signature style is still defined by Lyn’s love of natural botanicals and her precision in using them. Whilst respecting tradition, Miller Harris strives to push the boundaries, creating exquisitely crafted fragrances that are innovative yet timeless.

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BRAND OVERVIEW

Miller Harris breathes colour and life into the classic perfumer’s art, with complex couture fragrances designed to tell vivid urban stories. They start with nature, with distinct greens and woods, with carefully sourced floral notes, iris from Florence, French violet leaf, jasmine from Egypt, Tunisian orange flower. They frame these precious botanicals in complex and unconventional ways. They honour nature by sourcing the finest raw materials and preserving the delicacy of the ingredients, then curate, combine and harmonise them to create perfumes that combine Parisian elegance with London’s eclectic street styles. 17


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“MILLER HARRIS IS A YOUNG LONDON BRAND, SO WE C AN MIX URBAN WITH MODERN BOHEMIA WITH NO LEGACY TO WORRY ABOUT”

Sarah Rotherham, CEO Miller Harris. 2018 19


BRAND ESSENCE

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BRAND AUDIT MISSION STATEMENT Whilst respecting tradition, Miller Harris strives to push the boundaries, creating exquisitely crafted fragrances that are innovative yet timeless. They are aiming to evoke memories through the individual stories of their products.

VISION STATEMENT To become a leading artisan perfumer, that reaches into the premium gifting market. This will first be done through US expansion, then subsequently reaching out further to the rest of the world.

VALUES Traditional perfumer that uses their fragrances to tell a story and evoke memories from their customers.

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PRODUCTS Miller Harris has been creating luxury fragrances since its creation in 2002, each inspired by a memory or a feeling, enabling the moment to be captured in scent. They have products within the fragrance, scented candle and bath & body sections. Their most popular scents include ‘Rose Silence’, ‘Tea Tonique’ and ‘Feuilles de Tabac’ all of which come in a fragrance, a scented candle and various bath & body products. In 2006 the iconic singer and actress, Jane Birkin, collaborated with Miller Harris on a bespoke scent created to evoke memories of her past. The uniquely intimate and nostalgic scent, L’Air de Rien, is reminiscent of her brother, bookcases, spice markets and musk; all of which are scents that defined her childhood and early years. The scent was originally a bespoke scent that Miller Harris created for Birkin but after its success was launched into the core range in 2016. Miller Harris have 4 collections that run alongside their main core range of fragrances, they have the La Fumée Collection, the Perfumer’s Library Collection, the Sherzo and Tender Collection, which was inspired by a passage from F. Scott Fitzgerald’s novel ‘Tender is the Night’, and the Forage Collection. Additionally, Miller Harris has a bespoke service for individually tailored perfumes at £6,000 a bottle (Kersnar, 2007).

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IDENTITY PRISM PHYSIQUE

PERSONALITY

High quality, beautiful products Product range fits together well Evokes memories and emotion Suited to consumer’s tastes Marketing and overall visuals are applealing

Intellectual and empowering Bohemian and feminine Personal Mature Modern and fresh Luxury and self-indulgent Contemporary British

RELATIONSHIP

CULTURE

Authentic brand Evokes personal memories Genuine Forms connections Products are personal Premium Artisinal and unique In-store events

Immersive Inclusive Personal British and Parisian connections Premium Reputable within market

REFLECTION

SELF-IMAGE Loyal and respectful to current customers (value them) More than a brand High-class Beautiful products Fresh, floral and feminine Contemporary yet classic

Loyal customers Repeat purchases Love organic and good quality products Intellectual and sophisticated Follow the brand’s news and movements

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“AS A BRAND WE’RE IN A VERY UNIQUE SPOT... WE’RE TELLING URBAN, CONTEMPORARY STORIES THROUGH PERFUME AND OUR TARGET AUDIENCE IS THE MODERN BOHEMIAN”

Sarah Rotherham, CEO Miller Harris. 2018 27


BENEFIT LADDER

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EXPERIENCE In store experience with collaborations with artists and authors, have a good social relationship. Value their current customers and let them know through social media features/ engagement.

FUNCTIONAL Quality products Offer’s instore experiences Ingredients and materials all sourced from the UK and Europe

SOCIAL Sophisticated lifestyle while remaining colourful and exciting Reflects the classic urban British lifestyle, busy and complex

PRODUCT The products tell a story They reflect the wearers personality not mask it Beautiful fragrances that evoke memories and tell a story

EMOTIONAL Make the consumer feel sophisticated and empowered Sensual and emotional Not overpowering their personality but reflecting it. 29


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BRAND HEALTH STORES AND CONCESSIONS Miller Harris currently only has 4 stores, all based in London. They additionally have over 50 concessions across the UK within Fenwick’s, John Lewis, Selfridges and many more, this allows the brand to reach a wider base of consumers than the ones that have access to the stores in London. Miller Harris also have over 40 concessions across Europe where they are reaching an international consumer base, however they do not have their own store in. Europe which could be a growth strategy in the future.

AWARDS Best Niche Brand at the Sunday Times Style Beauty Awards 2012 Best POP/VM Solution for ‘Harris in Bloom’ at Retail Week Interiors Awards 2017 Best New Men’s Prestige Fragrance for scent ‘Étui Noir’ at the CEW Beauty Awards 2017

INVESTMENTS In November 2012 NEO Capital put in its investment in Miller Harris. According to Michael Nouril, the man who led the deal, stated that “Miller Harris is a terrific fit for Neo, which is highly regarded for investing in exciting companies with strongly differentiated brands and partnering with them to create a platform for accelerated global expansion” (Proskauer, 2012). 31


81% 5%

had not heard of Miller Harris.

had purchased or been given a gift of a Miller Harris product.

“Fresh and unique approach to perfume” “Good quality” “Absolutely love” 32


AWARENESS Although Miller Harris has a good reputation within the market they do not have the awareness among consumers in the UK. This is suggested by the quantitative survey conducted where only 19% of respondents had heard of Miller Harris. The other 81% had never seen or heard of the brand before which shows that they need to increase their brand awareness within the UK as it is not strong.

USAGE The usage of the brand is not as strong as it could be, out of the 19 people who had heard of the brand only 5 had purchased or been given a gift of a Miller Harris. This means that 14 people know the brand but have never used them personally. Miller Harris needs to ensure that people who know the brand also purchase or utilise the brand in some way, this could be through following their social media, which will ensure they are constantly being reminded of the brand’s presence.

PERCEPTIONS A positive aspect of the brand is that the consumers who do purchase and use the products have excellent perceptions of the brand, which means that if Miller Harris can gain customers and maintain their current customer service then they will have the ability to gain return customers and hence gain sales.

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SOCIAL AUDIT 18.7K

17.3K

3.8K

It is evident when looking at Miller Harris’s social platforms that Instagram is their most utilised platform, with posts going up daily. They additionally have a strong presence on Facebook and post to this platform frequently. They will need to improve their presence on Facebook as it is the leading social media platform in the US with over 164 million users every month (Statista, 2018). This means Miller Harris will need to constantly be engaging with their consumers and using the platform as a way of reaching new consumers once they have expanded in the US. It will ensure they have a more intimate connection with their consumers. In comparison to their competitors Miller Harris does not come close to the number of followers, with Jo Malone, who is a key competitor in both the UK and the US, securing 873K followers on Instagram compared to Miller Harris’s 17.3K. This means Miller Harris needs to reach out to consumers on social media and attract new followers, this can be done through influencer engagement. A strength of Miller Harris’s social media is the way they engage with their current followers through featuring their content with #flatlayfriday, where they feature consumer’s flat-lays of their products. They also hold competitions such as the #MHForagedBouquet competition which engages their consumers and make them feel connected to the brand. This engagement is a good, but the brand now needs to focus on increasing their followings, while making the consumers feel valued.

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RECOMMENDATIONS Through the online survey it became clear that only 1% of people surveyed follow Miller Harris on social media. This shows that the brand need to grow the awareness of their brand through social media by gaining followers and capturing their attention. This is key for the brands launch in US as “50% of online adults in the US admit to logging on to Facebook several times a day� (We Are Flint, 2018). Recommendations that Miller Harris could utilise are: - - -

Offering exclusive deals and discounts to their social media followers Use influencers to attract more followers and raise brand awareness Continue to engage with their consumers through social media

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THE UK TARGET CONSUMER

The UK Miller Harris consumer is someone who enjoys luxury products and want there to be a story behind products. They enjoy buying other people gifts of Miller Harris because they want their friends and family to appreciate the brand as much as they do. They are balancing family and work commitments and so having perfume that lasts all day is important to them, they are willing to pay a little bit more for that.

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THE UK MARKET The fragrance market in the UK grew 3% in 2017 to reach £1.8 billion (Euromonitor International, 2018). As this statement shows the UK fragrance market is continually growing and has been for many years, which is evidenced by the graph below. The graph shows that the UK fragrance market is growing steadily and is forecast to continue on this path. Euromonitor additionally states that “volume sales of both mass and premium fragrances decline in 2017” and that the large players within the market are “increasingly being challenged by smaller independents”. This is a good thing for Miller Harris as it reveals that artisan brands are rising while mass market brands are declining, showing there is a consumer trend of purchasing from smaller brands which is the category that Miller Harris falls into.

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STORYTELLING

NO STORYTELLING

HIGH PRICE

LOW PRICE 40


UK COMPETITORS AND POSITION

Miller Harris’s key primary competitors in the UK are Jo Malone, Diptyque and Byredo as they offer similar products as Miller Harris at relatively similar price points. Looking at the positioning map it is clear that Miller Harris has successfully set themselves apart from their competitors in terms of the amount of storytelling the brand does with its products and store experiences. It is also clear that the prices of Miller Harris products are much higher than other brands which offer similar products such as Neom. This means Miller Harris needs to ensure they are offering something unique to its consumers in order to prevent them looking elsewhere at cheaper products. 41


PORTER’S 5 FORCES COMPETITIVE RIVALRY Within the fragrance market consumer tend to stick to the same brands, this is due to scent being such a personal concept. There are many strong competitors such as Dior, Chanel and Jo Malone that have taken up the market. They have got their loyal consumers who are not likely to switch brands easily. Brands are not easily able to differentiate themselves through price as consumers are expecting fragrance to be a higher priced item and are hence willing to spend more.

SUPPLIER POWER Miller Harris use smaller UK based suppliers, as this is a value of the business. As the suppliers are smaller and as there are not many within the UK they have much more power over Miller Harris than if they were using a global supplier with lots of competition. This means that if the suppliers raise their prices then Miller Harris cannot just leave as there are not many other suppliers in the UK. This may impact Miller Harris’s prices as they may be charged more from the suppliers. this is why it is crucial that Miller Harris creates a strong and trustworthy relationship with their suppliers so that the supplier will be less likely to increase their prices.

BUYER POWER Miller Harris has a smaller customer base than other bigger brands, this means their customers have the power. The customers they do have are loyal and don’t want to switch brands, but they have lots of other options if they do want to switch. This means Miller Harris has to retain their customers and engage with them when they are not purchasing, as with fragrances consumers are not making lots of purchases often, they are occasionally repurchasing products once they run out. This means consumer interaction is key to making them feel valued even when they are not buying products often.

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THREAT OF SUBSTITUTION There is not a big threat of substitution becase there are not many other form of products that could replace classic fragrances. Consumers are always going to want fragrances and scented products, especially if they are good quality. Miller Harris needs to ensure that their products are always unique in order for the business to differentiate from other brands creating similar products that could substitute Miller Harris products.

THREAT OF NEW ENTRY It is fairly difficult to enter the fragrance market as it is expensive due to the product development, as products need to be carefully developed and tested. This needs to be done through a trained technologist as it is using chemicals that will come in direct contact with the customers skin. However, once this has been done it is not that expensive and is simple due to there only being one product - not many sizes need to be held in stock, like with clothing brands. If new entrants can successfully position themselves in the crowded market, then they can be successful fairly quickly.

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STRENGTHS

WEAKNESSES

Strong relationships with existing customers.

Social media presence is good for existing customers but doesn’t reach out to potential customers.

Unique products that each tell a story. Interesting and unique experiential based stores.

Seem to have ‘gotten lost’ amongst bigger players in the market. They don’t have a very strong presence in the market.

Good variety of distribution channels, with stores and department stores, so readily accessible to customers.

Small product range, possibly not enough to suit a wider customer base. Financially not in a good position

OPPORTUNITIES

THREATS Larger and more recognisable players in the market.

Could increase brand image as a ‘gifting’ brand. Haven’t explored their brand stretch, they have focused on what they know. could venture out into other markets.

Similar competitors (Jo Malone) have already expanded into the US, they may have filled the gap in the market already and have a strong presence in the market.

Expand their brand presence by taking their brand and products into the US.

Miller Harris offers similar products to other artisan perfumers, they could venture out into other markets through brand stretch to grow their brand presence.

Don’t currently have a brand ambassador, so there is an opportunity to get one in the future.

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SWOT ANALYSIS

Miller Harris is a successful brand and it has a good reputation within its market, but it doesn’t have the scale or presence to become a big player yet. There is a lot of room for improvement to be had in the UK if the brand is to be successful in expanding into the US. They need to consider their weaknesses and threats that may arise before they can think about the expansion. Some priority areas that Miller Harris need to consider are: They need to improve their social media. They need to raise their brand awareness and presence in the UK market, as they are currently lost amongst strong competitors.

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ECONOMIC

POLITICAL

PESTLE ANALYSIS “Fragrances is a unique category that relies on imports of oils and specific products that come under tight regulation and legislation. Brexit may represent a potential threat over the forecast period for companies who import these types of specific products into the country and produce their perfumes in the UK. This would be a threat to independent brands producing in the UK and which do not have the resources to take on extra administrative work or the willingness to produce abroad. Only larger groups would be able to compete and stay afloat in this type of context” (Euromonitor International, 2018) In the aftermath of Brexit, “frictionless trade will not be possible” (Zalan, 2018). On the 7th March 2018 the EU offered a “classic free trade agreement covering limited services and zero tariffs and no quotas on goods” (Zalan, 2018), the agreement would mean trading can be made between the EU and UK but there will be more checks and legislations put in place that may restrict the movements of goods.

“Against the dollar, the currency continued to fall in the months after the vote, bottoming out at $1.21 in January 2017, when Theresa May made it clear that she planned to pull the UK out of the EU single market and the customs union” (Chu, 2018). On the 30th May 2018 1 British Pound equals 1.33 US Dollar. The unemployment rate in the UK is at 4.2% while the employment rate in the UK “reached a record high of 75.6% between January and March 2018” (Office for National Statistics, 2018). “The British economy expanded 0.1 percent on quarter in the first three months of 2018, in line with the preliminary estimate and well below 0.4 percent in the previous period. It is the lowest growth rate since a 0.1 percent contraction in Q4 2012 as household spending rose the least in over three years and business investment shrank the most in 2-1/2 years. It is the weakest pace of expansion since Q2 2012” (Trading Economics, 2018)

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IMPACT ON MILLER HARRIS

IMPACT ON MILLER HARRIS

UK Miller Harris imports their ingredients from all over the world to manufacture in the UK. Due to Brexit the importation laws of products from Europe may become much stricter and so Miller Harris may have to source their ingredients from elsewhere or produce abroad, which they have said they are not willing to do. Miller Harris stated - ‘As a British company, we try to source from the UK for our manufacturing. This is really important to us. We want to achieve our vision without compromising on quality or process, regardless of cost” (Progress Packaging, n.d.). Brexit means that the UK is unstable in terms of trade, importation and manufacture. This may mean that the US could offer some trading stability through the expansion. Trade and exportation of Miller Harris products to their concessions in European countries may become a lot harder and more expensive. This may mean Miller Harris will have to stop selling in Europe as it gets too costly, this would be a big loss to the brand as this is currently their only link to consumers outside of the UK.

As Miller Harris want to expand into the US the exchange rate will be a big factor into the success of the sales as Miller Harris deals with its finances in the UK. If the value of the pound is low, then Miller Harris could be losing out on a significant amount of money. If the unemployment rate is high, then that means that the brand has a smaller pool of employable people and so a smaller set of skills available to them when hiring employees. Currently this is less of an issue as they only have 4 in-house stores. The UK economy is at its lowest growth rate since 2012 which may mean there are less opportunities for Miller Harris to grow. the business investment shrank the most in 2½ years so there is less of an opportunity for investments for the brand. 47


There are 44 million active social media users in the UK which make up 66% of the UK population (Statista, 2018).

TECHNOLOGICAL

SOCIAL

The UK median disposable household income was £27,300 in the financial year ending 2017, up 2.3% on the previous year (Office for National Statistics, 2018). “Data shows that consumers are concerned about ingredients when it comes to personal care products. Indeed, the niche fragrance sector has boosted the prestige market in recent years with niche brands focusing on the superiority of ingredients as a point of difference. The sector is also an indulgent one, with the same Report showing that 43% of people who purchased premium beauty or personal care brands in the 12 months to October 2016 did so to treat themselves. This presents opportunities for retailers to do more to enable indulgence in the sector. Stores can offer beauty treatments to those browsing fragrances to create an atmosphere of indulgence” (Mintel, 2018)

“Modern database systems that perfumers formulate with today make the fragrance industry more advanced. Modern database systems allow perfumers to track and compare modifications at a glance, have a clear vision of cost and regulatory impact while formulating, share information much more readily, and learn from formulas that have had market success” (Kavanaugh, 2018) Sales of fragrance online grew by 20% to reach £162 million in 2016 (The NPD Group, 2017). Due to natural disasters and crop shortages, natural oils like orange oil are increasing drastically in price. This is where, through biotechnology, sustainable alternatives can be created. “Any ingredient that shows frequent or considerable instability in availability, price or quality will be a target for biotechnology moving forward” (Kavanaugh, 2018).

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IMPACT ON MILLER HARRIS IMPACT ON MILLER HARRIS

Miller Harris needs to ensure they have a good engagement on social media as over half the UK population is active on social media platforms and are hence all able to connect with the brand and become potential customers. If the disposable income rate is increasing, then consumers will be more frivolous with their money and will hence be more likely to purchase non-essential items such as fragrance. Miller Harris could play upon the consumer trend of consumer indulgence and extend their brand to stretch to beauty treatments in store. This will also favour their experiential style store experiences.

Advancements in technology enables Miller Harris to formulate and sample products faster and easier, enabling a faster turnaround of new products. Miller Harris could increase the promotion of their website in store through the creation of more of an omni-channel outlook for the brand. This is important as the online sales of fragrances is growing and so they can capitalise on it, increasing their sales. Even though Miller Harris uses natural products this may become unfeasible in the future due to shortages and natural disasters and so the brand may need to turn to biotechnology to formulate replacements to ensure the quality and scent remains the same.

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LEGAL

All perfumery products placed on the market in the UK are regulated by European legislation, the Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. The primary purpose of these laws is to protect human safety. The manufacturer of the product is responsible for ensuring it is safe and each cosmetic must be assessed for safety by a qualified safety assessor before it is made available to the public (The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Perfumery Association , 2018). The Consumer Rights Act 2015 became law on 1 October 2015, replacing three major pieces of consumer legislation - the Sale of Goods Act, Unfair Terms in Consumer Contracts Regulations, and the Supply of Goods and Services Act. It was introduced to simplify, strengthen and modernise the law, giving clearer shopping rights (Which, 2018).

ENVIRONMENTAL

The National Minimum Wage Act 1998 creates a minimum wage across the United Kingdom, currently £7.83 per hour for workers aged over 25, £7.05 per hour for workers aged 21 to 24 and £5.60 per hour for workers aged 18 to 20.

We use 15 times more petrol than consumer and industrial products, researchers said, yet the amount of chemical vapours released into the atmosphere through scented products is roughly the same as through fuel emissions. Those vapours are volatile organic compounds (VOCs). They react with sunlight to form ozone pollution, and the researchers found they also react with various chemicals in the atmosphere to create fine particulates in the air (National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, 2018). The fragrances industry is also being increasingly influenced by growing consumer awareness and healthy lifestyles. With consumers seeking greater transparency, they are also looking to avoid superficial and chemical ingredients to put on their skin. There is thus space for growth for more natural, organic and vegan products, which are “free-from” and naturally sourced. (Euromonitor International, 2018).

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IMPACT ON MILLER HARRIS IMPACT ON MILLER HARRIS

Miller Harris needs to ensure all their products coincide with the laws in place for fragrances. They need to make sure they hire a qualified safety assessor who can check the products are safe for consumption. Miller Harris needs to make sure they follow consumer laws such as the Consumer Rights Act 2015, so they can appease their customers, who are the backbone of the brand. Because of the National Minimum Wage Act 1998 Miller Harris needs to ensure they are paying all of their employees the minimum wage or above. This is very important because if they are not following employee laws and regulations then employees may not want to work for the business and they may get a bad reputation, meaning it will be harder to find the high-quality employees they need to provide the service for their consumers.

The fact that perfume fumes are being revealed to be dangerous to the environment could prove problematic for Miller Harris as consumers may become more aware about perfumes and aerosols, additionally laws and regulations could be put in place to save the environment which could produce stricter regulations regarding fragrances and how much they can be used. Miller Harris could play on the conscious consumer by creating fragrances with more natural products. They could additionally create a range of solid perfumes that don’t release the same quantity of bad fumes into the air as areosols.

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EXISTING (PRODUCTS)

NEW (PRODUCTS)

EXISTING (MARKETS)

Market Penetration or Expansion

Product Development

NEW (MARKETS)

ANSOFF’S MATRIX

Market Development

Diversification

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In order to determine the optimal entry strategy for Miller Harris to take when launching into the US, an Ansoff Matrix analysis was carried out. The aim is for Miller Harris to immediately stand out against competition and so the best route to take is diversification with the launch into a new market (the US) with a new product range. However, in order to minimise risk, the new range will be clearly in line with their current products and so this enables Miller Harris to better understand their products when expanding into the new US market. The initial launch will also have Miller Harris taking their existing products with them. This idea may be more risky as it means the brand will need to invest a lot into the expansion, however as the market is in such good health and as there is a demand for the products that Miller Harris are offering there is a much higher success rate to be forecasted.

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PART II:

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WHERE SHOULD THE BRAND GO?

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BRAND VISION & OBJECTIVES The vision when expanding into the US is for Miller Harris to become a leading artisan perfumer, they will continue to sell similar products to similar consumers as this will enable them to successfully understand the market/consumer and how to position the products they are selling within the market.

Objective 1: To grow consumer awareness in both the UK and the US in order to make more profit.

Objective 2: To sucessfully open stores in the US and offer consumers a great in-store experience.

Objective 3: To grow social media following on all platforms, primarily Facebook and Instagram

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WHY THE US?

The US is a growing country and one of the leading countries in the World. There is a strong fragrance market which means there are lots of potential customers. Additionally, the US consumer and market landscape is similar to that in the UK especially since the rise of interconnectivity between the countries; this means Miller Harris understands what the US consumers want and how to form connections with them as they are fairly similar to consumers in the UK. The US is a large country with lots of room for further expansion and growth if Miller Harris is successful in the initial expansion.

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THE US MARKET Similarly, to the UK the fragrance market also grew by 3% in 2017 to reach a worth of $8.2 billion. Additionally, the market is forecast to continue to grow, reaching approximately $10 billion by 2022, as is shown in the graph above. In the US the demand for premium fragrances “outpaces mass fragrances, due to more effective lifestyle branding and a story-telling positioning” and in the US “consumers are now drawn to aspirational lifestyle brands, authentic story-telling, niche and artisanal scents and a gender-neutral positioning” (Euromonitor International, 2018). This is good for Miller Harris as their brand has a strong focus on storytelling and it is what sets them apart from competition in the UK. This is important as Miller Harris is expanding into a market where there is a current market need for what the brand already offers. However, this may mean there is a growing number of brands that use this ‘storytelling’ value, hence there may be an increasing number of competitors who have also noticed the change in the market landscape.

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THE US TARGET CONSUMER

The US Miller Harris consumer is someone who is very work driven and is always travelling, they hence care about having a relaxing home life and always turn to Miller Harris candles to lighten their mood. They follow an organic lifestyle, always looking for organic products whether that be food or fragrance. Since they are very work driven they like to treat themselves to luxury products with the money they earn. The target consumer is females aged 30-60 in the social grade of ABC1, they are sophisticated, ambitious and classic.

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STORYTELLING

NO STORYTELLING

HIGH PRICE

LOW PRICE 64


US COMPETITORS AND POSITION

Miller Harris’s key primary competitors in the US remain similar to the UK with Jo Malone and Diptyque, however in the US there are brands such as Le Labo and Roberta Andrade that offer the similar products at similar price points. Strong competition additionally comes from the big-name brands with Dior and Chanel still taking the mass market approach, in comparison to Miller Harris which is a much more niche brand. It is obvious by looking at the positioning map that there are more artisanal/niche brands in the US that are similar to Miller Harris in the way they care about the storytelling within a brand. Brands such as Marble & Milkweed and Thorn & Bloom are brands that are strong on storytelling while being affordable with products starting at just $7. This means Miller Harris has to be careful about their prices as other brands are offering similar experiences at a much cheaper price. On the other hand, Strange Invisible Perfumes is a brand that is high on storytelling but has much higher prices than Miller Harris with a 100ml eaux de parfum costing $425 in comparison to Miller Harris’s £105 for 100ml. This shows that Miller Harris is in the middle of the market and hence needs to focus on the competitors within this range such as Jo Malone. 65


ECONOMIC

POLITICAL

PESTLE ANALYSIS “The US will greatly miss the influence and global perspective that the UK brings to EU decision-making, particularly around security and defence” (Brinded, 2017). “Today, the changing mood in both Washington and London is forging an unusual new chapter in this long standing “special relationship” (Rogers, 2017)

“The US unemployment rate fell to 3.9 percent in April 2018 from 4.1 percent in the previous month, and below market expectations of 4 percent. It was the lowest rate since December 2000” (Trading Economics, 2018) “ The U.S. economy grew at a weaker 2.2% annual rate in the first three months of the year, as consumers and businesses slowed their spending” (Crutsinger, 2018)

SOCIAL

There are 211 million active social media users in the US, which make up 71% of the US population (Statista, 2018) Consumer spending was $13.6 trillion at the end of 2017. Consumer spending contributes to 69 percent of the U.S. economy. Consumer spending trends show a definite move toward online shopping versus shopping in brick-andmortar stores. (Amadeo, 2018) “Disposable Personal Income in the United States increased to 14809.91 USD Billion in March from 14794.74 USD Billion in February of 2018” (Trading Economics, 2018)

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IMPACT ON MILLER HARRIS

IMPACT ON MILLER HARRIS

IMPACT ON MILLER HARRIS

US After the Trump election the US is split. There is an overwhelming dislike for the man in power and that is making the political landscape uncertain. Miller Harris needs to ensure they put their personal political views aside while in the US, especially as they are a ‘feminist’ brand who’s target consumer is the empowered modern woman. They need to make sure they find a good balance of patriotic pride in the UK and pride in the US too.

As the employment rate in US is rising then there may be less candidates for roles within their US stores. It is important for Miller Harris to have the best retail teams possible as they are representing the brand and are the first interaction with the brand that consumers will get in the US as there wont be concessions. If consumers are spending less, then the first thing they will eliminate form their spending will be non-essential items such as fragrance products. This may mean that consumers are less likely to purchase Miller Harris products and so it may be harder to make sales.

Miller Harris needs to ensure they are active on social media while moving to the US so they can capitalise on the fact that 71% of the population use social media. As consumer spending is moving towards e-commerce, Miller Harris will need to ensure their website is ready to handle the increase in sales. They also need to ensure the website is inviting and attractive in order to entice consumers to it. Disposable income is increasing meaning consumers may be more likely to purchase non-essential products like perfumes as they have more money to spend.

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TECHNOLOGICAL LEGAL ENVIRONMENTAL

“During an April 2017 survey, 40 percent of internet users in the United States stated that they purchased items online at several times per month, and 20 percent said they bought items or services online on a weekly basis” (Statista, 2018) 77% of US internet users read blogs (Copy Press, 2017) “86 percent of women turn to social networks before making a purchase…71 percent of consumers are more likely to make a purchase based on a social media reference” (Influencer Orchestration Network, 2017)

The minimum wage in the United States is set by US labor law and a range of state and local laws. Employers generally have to pay workers the highest minimum wage prescribed by federal, state, and local law. The US minimum wage is currently $7.25. The two most important laws pertaining to cosmetics marketed in the United States are the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) and the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act(FPLA). FDA regulates cosmetics under the authority of these laws.

“We’re going to cancel the Paris Climate Agreement and stop all payments of U.S. tax dollars to U.N. global warming programs” (Politifact, 2017) Among U.S. adults, 75% say they are particularly concerned about helping the environment as they go about their daily lives (Anderson, 2017) 63% of Americans are hopeful businesses will take the lead to drive social and environmental change moving forward, in the absence of government regulation (Cone Communications , 2017)

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IMPACT ON MILLER HARRIS IMPACT ON MILLER HARRIS IMPACT ON MILLER HARRIS

Online sales are increasing and so Miller Harris needs to promote their website while in the US. They can do this by promoting it instore, through cards in the bags and on the fragrance testing sticks. As so many US internet users use blogs, Miller Harris could capitalise on this by collaborating with bloggers and by inviting them to events, so they can grow their brand awareness through them. Miller Harris needs to strongly consider gaining a brand ambassador who has a strong social media presence so they can grow their own presence on social media.

Miller Harris needs to ensure they are paying all of their employees the minimum wage or above. This is very important because if they are not following employee laws and regulations then employees may not want to work for the business and they may get a bad reputation, meaning it will be harder to find the high-quality employees they need to provide the service for their consumers. Miller Harris also needs to ensure they are following all of the regulations regarding the fragrance industry. Their products need to be FDA approved.

The political leader in the US is not environmentally led when making decisions, this could transfer to consumers and they may be more likely to buy into a brand because of price rather than values, meaning they may not turn to Miller Harris over cheaper brands. As US consumers are concerned about the environment Miller Harris will need to ensure that they are environmentally aware, and they can make this more public to the consumers. They need to become a more transparent business through promoting their CSR values on their website. If they do this consumers may be more likely to purchase from Miller Harris as they are in line with their own values. 69


PART III:

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HOW WILL THE BRAND GET THERE?

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UK OPTIMISATION STRATEGY Before expanding into the US Miller Harris needs to optimise their UK presence. They can do this by following these key recommendations. They need to improve their social media accounts as currently they are focused on the consumer they do have already, which is good as it is making them feel valued, but they now need to reach out and gain more of a following so they can improve their awareness. The way they can do this is by offering exclusive deals to social media followers and by getting consumers to create user generated content through hashtags and competitions. If others see Miller Harris on their friends and family’s social media then they are more likely to follow to or go their website, making them aware of the brand. Regular social media content and consumer engagement will improve the likeness that consumers will see the content as they will be put at the top of feeds. One key recommendation is for Miller Harris to gain a UK influencer as their UK brand ambassador. Lydia Elise Millen is the top pick as she fits in line with their current brand image and her social media accounts follow a similar theme to that of Miller Harris. She currently has 709K followers that would be interested in the brand that she would then be exposing them to.

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Miller Harris needs to improve the awareness of their brand significantly. This is really important as they need the support of the UK consumers when moving out into the US, they could then recommend the brand to their US friends, who could become potential customers within the US. The awareness of the brand should significantly improve with the changes to their social media, the addition of more followers will improve awareness immediately. They can also do this by more experiential marketing, with instore events and experiences. One thing they could do is introduce spa experiences with the products while in store, as this will bring consumers into the store and will get them taking. The best way to improve awareness is by word of mouth. Another way of improving their awareness is by collaborating with celebrities to create fragrances, much like the Jane Birkin one. This would mean that followers of the celebrities would be introduced to the brand through them and want to purchase the scent as it is so personal to that celebrity. Celebrities they could chose may be Judi Dench, Adele and Kate Moss who are all very known for being British, while each having their own individual personalities.

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US MARKET ENTRY STRATEGY THE IDEA The US entry strategy has Miller Harris opening 4 key stores in the US, alongside this there will a launch of 4 new fragrances that represent the cities that the stores are in. The products will be created through market research where the brand will go to each of the cities and ask the people “what does your city smell like to you?�, from this the fragrances will be developed. This will get the people excited as well as get consumer involvement at the product creation stage They will feel connected to the product and the brand before they have even moved to the US. The products allow for a modern take on personalisation as consumers can buy the city fragrance of the city they are from, or if they are holidaying there, purchase as a personal memento. The 4 key cities are: - Dallas - New York - San Francisco - LA

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WHY THOSE CITIES? Each of the 4 cities offer a different personality and a different feeling, they all have a big community and a big enough commercial market to house the stores succesfully, so that they make a profit.

WHY NOT GO INTO DEPARTMENT STORES TO ‘TEST THE WATER’? During primary research in New York, it was observed that direct to consumer retailing of perfume is not big and not many brands do it in US. It was also found that there are not many individual stores as most brands focus on department stores. However, consumers in US are now looking for experience rather than convenience of department stores. This is why it was decided that Miller Harris opens up flagship stores in 4 major US cities, rather than taking a simpler route of entering straight into department stores. This is a risky move, but it will help Miller Harris stand out in the already saturated market. Another reason is because in UK the in-store experience is what Miller Harris do so successfully and it is important to maintain that brand value.

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PRODUCT The product is the new fragrances dedicated to each city. They can be bought alone or in sets of smaller bottles. They will come in the same size bottles (50ml and 100ml) as in the UK so that Miller Harris doesn’t have to spend more time and money on creating a new bottle. The packaging and the look of the bottles will be in line with the current products.

PRICE The price will be the same as their current fragrances at ÂŁ75 ($99) for 50ml and ÂŁ105 ($140) for 100ml. however, for the initial launch the prices of the products will go down as the brand will use penetration pricing. The prices will have 10% taken off during the first few weeks to gain consumer attraction. This will bring the 50ml bottle to $89 and the 100ml bottle to $126. The products can also be purchased as a set of 4x 25ml bottles at $150.

PLACE The products main channel of distribution is through the stores in Dallas, San Francisco, New York and LA. This means the customers are having a first-hand experience with Miller Harris. This enables the brand to regulate the experience that consumers have with the brand. The products will also be available through their website.

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PROMOTION The promotion will be done through their social media as it is cost effective and can easily target consumers. They can also promote through store experience as this is exciting for the consumer and gets them to form an instant connection with the brand. The events and launch will additionally be promoted on their website and through flyers in the cities, so that they can target the specific consumers in each city.

PEOPLE The people who will be making contact with customers are primarily the store staff. This means they need to have the right personality and attributes to provide excellent customer service. They are at the forefront of the business and so have to have exceptional product knowledge and reflect the brand values at all time. They will wear a smart uniform of white shirts and black trousers, additionally their hair/makeup needs to be classically styled to reflect the brand and what the consumers expect.

PROCESS Miller Harris will work with a big transportation company that is credible and ships valuable product often. This will ensure less breakages and losses with the products at the transportation stage.

PHYSICAL Within the UK the Miller Harris stores are beautifully laid out ad creative, to match the brands values and overall image. The visual merchandising in the US will be similar, however each of the 4 stores will have a different ambience to reflect the mood of that city. There will be bright lighting to showcase the products effectively and give a crisp luxury feel to the stores. In each store there will be a large wall that projects the city landscape of the location they are in. This will promote the exclusive products while offering an exciting visual experience. Seasonal visual merchandising will be used throughout the year as to remind the consumers that Miller Harris is the perfect brand to be gifting to loved ones during holidays. 79


STRENGTHS

WEAKNESSES

Personalised to cities

Limited to 4 cities in initial launch

Remains within brands image

Products could not be sold in another country

Collectable

Risky to launch new products alongside core range

Opportunity to be gifted The brand is not very big and so it may be risky to enter into a new, bigger market.

Exclusive and exciting Stand out from competition through stores

OPPORTUNITIES

THREATS

Can easily expand and create scents for other states

May not be popular in specific cities, not inclusive of all consumers

Expand from just fragrances, same scents in candles, room diffusers etc.

May not reach all consumers if they are not aware of the brand Stores have to be in accessible places if there are only 4 of them as consumers may not be able to get to them, which is the usual perk of being in concessions. Going straight into stores and not utilising concessions could be risky.

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SWOT ANALYSIS OF THE STRATEGY

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STORE ENVIRONMENT

The stores will be very experiential as they are the main form of contact that consumers will have with the brand. The aim is to draw them in through creative visual merchandising and bright colours. The mood of each of the stores will reflect the city it is in. Colours and lighting will be changed dependent on the location so that each store is unique and personal to the city. Additionally there will be a screen wall where the landscape of the city will be show on it to offer an exciting visual experience.

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US PROMOTION STRATEGY PRE-LAUNCH There will be pre-launch promotion made through the development of the products and the involvement with the people of the city. This will get them excited for the launch. There will also be lots of promotion on their website and social media using the hashtag and slogan of the launch #YourCityYourScent. Additionally, flyers will be handed out in the cities to gain awareness and publicity for the event.

LAUNCH The launch will be celebrated with a launch party at each store that bloggers and customers are invited to. This helps Miller Harris push their social media and store presence further through bloggers and influencers.

POST-LAUNCH Post launch Miller Harris will need to maintain consumer interest through social media engagement and by obtaining a brand ambassador which they do not currently have. They will also promote the brand through putting their website and social media handle on cards that will be placed in packaging and through the fragrance testing sticks will have them printed on. This will encourage people who have come to the stores to follow their social media and repurchase through their website.

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WE HAVE COME ACROSS THE POND!

com rris. erha ris l l i .m ar www millerh @

LAUNCH PARTY 8th June 2018

NEW YORK SAN FRANCISCO LOS ANGELES DALLAS

ADDRESS, TIME ADDRESS, TIME ADDRESS, TIME ADDRESS, TIME

YOUR CITY. YOUR SCENT Leaflet to Events

Fragrance Tester

Website Promotion

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BRAND AMBASSADOR

WHY? It will be beneficial for Miller Harris to get a brand ambassador to promote their brand so that they are able to increase their awareness. They will need to choose someone who reflects their brand values and message.

WHO? Emma Watson is the perfect choice to be the celebrity brand ambassador for Miller Harris because she is sophisticated, intellectual and modern. She bridges the gap between the UK and the US as she is well known in both. She is empowering and bold, she will speak her mind on important matters. All of these attributes reflect the brand overall ethos, hence why she is the best choice. She is an avid reader and strongly encourages others to read which fits well with Miller Harris’s literature theme that they follow with their brand through products based on books, to author readings, to their ‘scent library’. She has 46.7 million Instagram followers who will have the brand promoted to them regularly. This shows good it would be to use her as a brand ambassador as she would improve brand awareness and in turn usage very quickly.

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PLAN PROGRESSION FUTURE GOALS The future of Miller Harris in the US is dependent on the success of the stores and how much awareness the brand gets from social media. Overall the aim is to grow until there are stores across America that offer the excellent experience that their current stores do. They will also have grown to include department stores, so they are more accessible to consumers. Over time they will become a large fragrance retailer that is known for telling a story with its products and experiences.

5 YEAR PLAN Open up concessions in department stores and specialist beauty stores such as Sephora and Ulta. Open up 2 more stores that offer the same great expereince as the original. Bring out 2 more scents inspired by the 2 new stores. Have gained 30 thousand Instagram followers Have gained more brand ambassadors who are able to promote the brand though their social media.

10 YEAR PLAN Open 20 more stores in key cities across America. Have become a key player in the US fragrance market.

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CONCLUSION Through careful consideration of the primary and secondary research, as well as the models used, this report has considered the best way for Miller Harris to expand into the US. It was decided that in order to stand out against the strong US competitors that the best way to move to the US is through direct exportation of the products into 4 key stores, that will allow Miller Harris to offer the exceptional customer/store experiences the same way the currently do. This conclusion was made primarily through the insight that US consumers are not using department stores as frequently and are now turning to store experience instead. If Miller Harris can push their store experience to offer more than their competitors through events, visual merchandising and in-store treatments then they will be able to stand out in the saturated market and offer something new to their consumers. The aim is to have launched the new stores and scents during the summer of 2019 as this is a time where people are more likely to be walking the city streets rather than staying indoors. This then means that by the time the holidays come up during the winter they have already established themselves within the city streets and so consumers will turn to them for gifting. This offers a great opportunity for Miller Harris as they will be able to promote their brand as a gifting brand during this time as well as get the awareness of the brand up as people who do not know of the brand will be given the products as a gift. Social media will play a key part in the promotion in the US, this is becase it is cost effective and easy to use. It is a way for Miller Harris to directly target their consumers and reach out to new ones.

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Farrell, A., 2018. Foraging for Spring Scents, With a British Perfumer. [Online] Available at: https://www.nytimes. com/2018/05/09/t-magazine/lyn-harris-perfume-londonregents-park.html [Accessed 20 May 2018].

Kwak C (2014), available at:https://www.cntraveler. com/stories/2014-12-18/things-to-do-in-washing- tondc-weekend-guide , accessed on: 20/05/18

Smith, Harriet (2018). Miller Harris’ concept store heightens the senses in Canary Wharf. online: available at: https://www.wallpaper.com/lifestyle/miller-harris-fragrance-concept-store-canary-wharf#DWoRV0woSO6zilXd.99, accessed on 20/05/18

Farrell, A., 2018. Foraging for Spring Scents, With a British Perfumer. [Online] Available at: https://www.nytimes.com/2018/05/09/t-magazine/lyn-harris-perfume-london-regents-park.html [Accessed 20 May 2018].

Miller Harris (2018). Roses. online: available at: https://www.instagram.com/millerharris/, accessed on 20/05/18

Millen, Lydia (2016). How To Make A Summer Style Statement. online: available at: https://lydiaelisemillen. com/2016/06/how-to-make-a-summer-style-statement/, accessed on 20/05/18

McQeens Blog (2016). Illustration 3. online: available at: https://blog.mcqueens.co.uk/2016/04/07/miller-harris-flowers-fragrance/, accessed on 20/05/18

Author’s Own Image: West et al (2018). Miller Harris Bottle 1. [Taken 20 May 2018].

Author’s Own Image: West et al (2018). Miller Harris Bottle 2. [Taken 20 May 2018].

Greber, M. (2017), What Should I eat for Break- fast Today, available at: http://whatshouldieat- forbreakfasttoday.com/tagged/sweet, accessed on 20/05/18

Author’s Own Image: West et al (2018). Miller Harris Bottle 3. [Taken 20 May 2018]. Pinterest (2018), available at: https://i.pin- img.com/ originals/60/66/b2/6066b2f108e- 7b13153839e908fd2d9 .jpg, accessed on 20/05/18

Author’s Own Image: West et al (2018). Miller Harris Bottle 4. [Taken 20 May 2018].

Hello Fashion Magazine (2017). Kate Moss stuns in new fashion campaign for Polish brand Reserved. online: available at: https://fashion.hellomagazine.com/ fashion-news/201708047088/kate-moss-models-for-reserved-campaign/, accessed on 20/05/18

Marine Girl (2016), available at:h p://marinegirl.co.uk/ get-in-style-with-these-fashion-tips/ , accessed on: 20/05/18

Vanity Fair (2016). Judi Dench Made Michelle Pfeiffer Cry. online: available at: https://www.vanityfair.com/ style/2017/11/judi-dench-made-michelle-pfeiffer-cry, accessed on 20/05/18

HOM (2017), available at:http://www.homeyo- hmy. com/blog-expect-reader-survey/ , accessed on: 20/05/18

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Billboard (2016). Adele Photographed in 2015. online: available at: https://www.billboard.com/articles/ columns/pop/7557922/adele-vanity-fair-interview, accessed on 20/05/18

Miller Harris (2018). Hands. online: available at: https://www.instagram.com/millerharris/, accessed on 20/05/18

Miller Harris (2018). Tester. online: available at: https:// www.facebook.com/MillerHarris/, accessed on 20/05/18

Haliday, Sandra. (2017). Miller Harris unveils new concept store in London. online: available at: http:// uk.fashionnetwork.com/news/Miller-Harris-unveils-newconcept-store-in-London,903824.html#.WxP41maZPOQ, accessed on 20/05/18

Time (2018). Emma Watson to Star in Disney’s Live Action Beauty and the Beast. online: available at: http:// time.com/3682451/emma-watson-disney-beauty-andthe-beast/, accessed on 20/05/18

Miller Harris (2018). Ink 2. online: available at: https:// www.instagram.com/millerharris/, accessed on 20/05/18

McQeens Blog (2016). Illustration 4. online: available at: https://blog.mcqueens.co.uk/2016/04/07/miller-harris-flowers-fragrance/, accessed on 20/05/18

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APPENDIX

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