MAKE UP ARTIST HANDBOOK

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would use “reverse age,” current age, and old age to show the passage of time. Mark Traynor’s lift package consist of two pieces of hypoallergenic surgical tape attached to two elastics, one of which has eyelets on it for adjusting the tension.

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To apply the lifts, the pull is very important. Start with a clean face, deciding placement of lifts before doing any makeup. At some point nearing the completion of the makeup application, you will stop doing makeup and attach the lifts. This ensures that your placement of makeup is correct. Once the lifts have been attached and the skin is tight and smooth, complete your makeup. The eyebrows should be done last, when the lifts are in place, to get the proper shape. 1. With the person sitting (clean face), looking straight into the makeup mirror, stand directly behind your subject. Placing your fingers at the hairline, pull to see where the lifts should be placed. You must work off the mirror image. Check the pull by adjusting your finger placement. See where it looks too tight or just right. 2. Clean the area with alcohol to remove natural oils. Let dry. 3. Apply the tape to the prep area. In some climates, you can also add a medical adhesive to the tape for extra holding power. 4. Gently place the elastics to the side or back of the head, with a clip to get them out of the way for makeup application. You are not attaching the elastic yet. 5. When your makeup application is almost complete, attach the elastic. You

should work with the Hairstylist at this point, to coordinate elastic with hairstyle. 6. Finish the makeup, and check for any adjustments that are needed. Always follow all manufacturer’s instructions. OLD AGE

We can add age to a character by painting in lines, age spots, and broken capillaries, and by graying the eyebrows and hair. If the actor has a photo of a parent at the age you are recreating, that is very helpful in seeing the way the family genetics age. Your knowledge from the previous chapters on Shapes (Chapter 1), and the Body (Chapter 2), and Highlights and Contours (Chapter 6) are needed to guide you in hollowing out the features, adding fine lines, and giving an old-age texture to the skin. Texturing the skin is a must to complete your line work. Otherwise you have smooth lined skin. Have your model raise and lower each section of the face that you are painting to find the lines (see Chapter 2: The Body). Using a medium brown with a fine-tipped makeup brush, paint in the line where the wrinkle forms. For a very subtle aging use a taupe brown. If a heavier line is needed, blend the top edge out and leave the lower edge of your line hard (unblended), this hard edge will recede the wrinkle further. Practice and work out your aging with as many models as you can. Each face tells you how to age them, so we will not give you steps to aging. Review Chapters 1 and 2 before starting your aging exercise.


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