Sunday, October 14, 2012 -
- B11
In defence of organic foods Earlier this month, researchers at Stanford University published a study that found a “lack of strong evidence” that organic foods are any more nutritious than conventional food. However, organic food did not grow in popularity over the years based on the premise that the food contained more nutrients than conventional foods. Rather, the food is considered safer and healthier because it does not contain dangerous chemicals used in the production of traditional foods. Agat Mathieu, owner of Café by Tao on West Esplanade, isn’t buying that organic foods aren’t healthier. The organic food advocate and restaurateur, says people will get the wrong idea from headlines that oversimplify the study. Organic foods remain far healthier, maybe more so because of what is not in them, she argues. “For me, there’s no doubt whatsoever,” said Mathieu “With conventional foods, they are using pesticides and herbicides. They are endangering the planet with ruining the topsoil. The farmers are getting sick because they are exposed to those elements. Animals are also affected.” The Stanford study was headed up by a medical doctor who was frequently asked by her patients if pricey organics were worth it, though some of her research showed higher levels of phosphorous and antioxidants in organic produce and more omega-3 fatty acids in organic milk and chicken. Regardless of study results, Mathieu said she sees results from her customers and their children who seem to benefit most. “They comment a lot on their skin. They noticed for children that their rashes are gone. They also notice that their immune system capacity is better. There may be a round of flu in their class and their child won’t get it,” she said.
There’s also the matter of taste. “Sometimes parents say to me, ‘How can your children eat so many vegetables? My children won’t touch them.’ I say ‘Try something organic.’” Mathieu doesn’t see organic foods as a trend, but rather as the start of a movement comparable to recycling, which went from the practice of a dedicated few to the norm across North America. And if her business is any indication, the movement is growing. “(Organics) are becoming more popular. My café is only organic. There’s no compromise,” she said, adding that she would rather not prepare a popular dish if she couldn’t source all organic ingredients for it. “We have so many people coming in just for that reason to shop. . . We’re doing extremely well even though we just opened in March.” Beyond being organic, Café by Tao is also vegan and raw, meaning the only ingredients are fruits, vegetables, nuts and seeds, herbs, spices, and buckwheat for grains. “We take all those ingredients and with them, we make a lasagna, we make a pizza, we make a burger or falafel – things that are known to people and they look exactly the same except our burgers are served in lettuce leaves,” she said. “It’s very enticing.” Her most popular dish right now is the lasagna, with “noodles” made of zucchini, with spinach, mushrooms, marinara sauce, and a layer of “cheese” made of pine nuts and macadamia nuts.
Mathieu is firmly rooted in her position on organic food. “I’m a strong believer in organic food. There is nothing that you can bring me that will convince me to begin using conventional. There’s nothing you can do. My mind is set. My beliefs are strong. We have to go back to what nature has given us to start with.” BRENT RICHTER brichter@nsnews.com
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Organics often cost more than genetically modified foods, Mathieu concedes, but the price is worth it, and there are ways to bring it down for those who can’t afford to feed their families shopping only at high-end stores.
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Before starting the café, Mathieu bought her produce at farmers’ markets, and even started an organic buying co-op so she could buy directly from the suppliers.
photos CINDY GOODMAN
“Now we’re talking 25 to 30 per cent less than the retail price of organic food,” she said.
Agat Mathieu, owner of Café by Tao (left) Apple crepes with maple cream and maple syrup (above)
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