Table Talk REVIEW
The Gingerman By Amanda Menahem
W
ith an increasingly ‘trendy’ dining
Spanish food in Brighton (review coming
scene here in Brighton, there’s a
soon). He and I are food ‘soul mates’, always
made choosing quite a challenge. Luckily Carlo
danger that our original, brilliant
The menu reads like food heaven, which
agreeing on new openings and food favourites.
is a sharer, and as food soul mates we were
fine dining establishments might get lost in the
He’d been through the mill recently and so I
able to narrow it down quickly enough. An
‘noise’. I must admit, I don’t hear many people
thought this would cheer him up (and frankly I
exquisite pulled pork bon bon with barbecue
talking about the Gingerman restaurant as
wanted the entertainment, his life is better than
sauce arrived as an amuse bouche with freshly
much as, say, 64 Degrees or The Set. But this
Eastenders).
made bread and truffle and honey butter that I
is no bad thing. It’s a bit like the way in which Londoners don’t really talk about Le Gavroche
The new décor is beautiful and subtle. I tire
couldn’t leave alone.
of restaurants with obtrusive décor - the focus
We chose three starters to share; Pear
should be on the food not the wallpaper. Here
Walnut and Chicory Salad with Pear Puree,
it’s exposed brick, comfortable seating and
Pickled Walnut, Caramelised Chicory and
white tablecloths. Simple, informal and relaxed.
Blue Cheese; Guinea Fowl Ravioli with Wild
has been quietly and confidently producing
The perfect ambience for my favourite lunches
mushroom, Parsley Oil and Parmesan; and
excellent food in comfortable, elegant
– those that go on for hours with flowing wine.
a Devon Crab, Roulade and Beignet, Charred
surroundings for years. It’s stood the test of
And that’s exactly what happened.
Sweet Corn, Avocado, Cucumber, Quail’s Egg
or The Square, but rave about Hoppers and Frenchie. The Gingerman, like The Square in London,
time. I had been here a handful of times over the
It kicked off with one of my absolute favourites, Ridgeview Rose de Noir sparkling
and Bisque. All were superb. I would say the crab dish was the best, the roulade delicate and flavoursome and offset by the beignet with its
years and always found it great. I’d heard of
wine – quite difficult to find, the other
the recent refurbishment and re-launch with a
Ridgeviews (e.g. the Bloomsbury) being
new menu and had been keen to revisit it. So
ubiquitous. The Rose de Noir (written about in
off I headed one sunny afternoon, for lunch
my review of Ridgeview winery) is rich, fruity
with lovely Carlo, himself a restaurateur and
and creamy with enough structure to drink
cheese turned into a delicious crumb atop the
purveyor of (in my opinion) the best authentic
throughout a meal rather than as just an aperitif.
caramelised chicory, a classic salty / sweet
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crunchy exterior. The bisque was light yet rich. A masterpiece. The pear dish was ranked second. The blue