1185. Rolex An extremely rare stainless steel wristwatch with center seconds, date and “pumpkin” dial. Made for the Peruvian Air Force, numbered 88 勞力士， 「Submariner」型號1680，非常罕有，軍用精鋼自動上弦鏈帶腕錶， 配中心秒針、日期和「pumpkin」錶盤，特為秘魯軍方製作，約1974年製 Manufacturer Year
Rolex Circa 1974
Reference No. 1680 Movement No. D112’321 Case No. 3’715’657, repeated in the inside caseback with 1680, outside caseback stamped “FUERZA AEREA DEL PERÚ, 88” Model Name Single Red Pumpkin FAP Submariner Material Stainless steel Calibre Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels Bracelet/Strap Rubber strap Clasp/Buckle Stainless steel pin buckle Dimensions 39mm Diameter Signed Case, dial and movement signed Estimate
HKD 320,000-420,000 USD 41,000-53,800 The present timepiece can be considered a “compendium” of Submariner rare traits, making it without a doubt one of the most appealing and collectible “Red Subs” to appear on the market to date.
Most obviously, it belongs to the Red Submariner category (specifcally, it is a Mark IV single red). These dials with vibrant red Submariner designation have been made for a short period of time from the late 1960s to the mid1970s. Six evolutions are recognized. A second layer of appeal is also quite apparent and comes from the aging of the luminous material to an intense and extremely appealing yellow tonality, making this dial a so-called “Pumpkin” dial due the chromatic similarity with the vegetable. Finally, one has to turn the watch around to realize that the watch was sold to the Peruvian Air Force, as the engraving proudly proclaims. The collector will rejoice when noticing that the fnely engraved issue number (in this case “88”: it indeed brought good luck to the timepiece!) is still present. Any doubt that this might be a later associated case back is cleared away when one opens the watch and notices that the full case number is repeated inside the case back, linking beyond any doubt case body and case back.
Phillips presents THE HONG KONG WATCH AUCTION: EIGHT on 28 May 2019.