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HEUER PARADE [Catalogue]

Page 26

Lot

2

Heuer Carrera ‘A&F’ Chronomatic

beautiful and extremely rare stainless steel chronograph wristwatch with date window and bracelet, retailed by Abercrombie & Fitch Co.

POWERED BY THE AUTOMATIC CAL. 11 MECHANISM – ANGLED VIEW OF THE DIAL DISPLAYING COUNTERS, DATE AND A&F SIGNATURE – SIDE SHOT OF THE CASE SHOWING THE CROWN.

MANUFACTURER

24 HEUER PARADE

Heuer

YEAR

Circa 1969

REFERENCE

1153N

CASE

147’586

MODEL NAME

Carrera ‘Abercrombie & Fitch’ Chronomatic

MATERIAL

Stainless steel

CALIBRE

Automatic, cal. 11, 17 jewels

BRACELET/STRAP

Stainless steel Gay Frères bracelet with HLC endlinks, max. length 205mm

CLASP/BUCKLE

Stainless steel Heuer deployant clasp stamped 2.69

DIMENSIONS

38.5mm diameter

SIGNED

Case, dial, movement and clasp signed

ESTIMATE CHF 15,000-25,000 $15,000-25,000 €13,600-22,700 LITERATURE The present watch is illustrated in ‘Heuer Carrera Chronographs 1963–85’ by Richard Crosthwaite & Paul Gavin, pages 156-159.

Heuer, with its partners Breitling, Büren, Hamilton and Dubois-Depraz developed the calibre 11 in its race to produce the world’s first automatic chronograph movement. Heuer presented this movement in three models: the Autavia, Carrera and Monaco. Moreover, these watches shared an important characteristic – the word “Chronomatic” printed on the dial above the Heuer badge. This indication was rapidly abandoned resulting in a very low number of “Chronomatic” dials being produced making them extremely rare and sought after by collectors. There are 5 known examples of the Carrera Chronomatic, including one in the TAG Heuer Museum. The rarity of this lot is further enhanced by the fact that it is the only known model displaying not only the Heuer and Chronomatic script, but also the Abercrombie & Fitch signature. The first series automatic Carrera models featured steel with black stripe hour and minute hands, inner tachymeter scale from 50 – 200 with the TACHY script at located 3 o’clock. The earliest examples also featured a transitional rice grain Gay Frères bracelet with a non-flip lock clasp which was made for only half a year and by the fourth quarter of 1969 the bracelet was delivered with the new flip lock clasp. The present example features a metallic blue dial that has gently aged to a particularly beguiling and shimmering lilac with a bright contrasting red seconds hand making it a pure delight to behold.


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