Disconnect april may 2015

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CONTEMPORARY HAIR 髮型潮流預報

APR - MAY 2015

COVER IMAGE FELICITAS ORDÁS Winner “Spanish Hairdresser of the Year” 2014 for her career and the “FEEL Collection”. The Figaro Awards are currently the most important awards in Spain. INSPIRATION: FEEL is a very feminine collection that emerges from the interior and is inspired in the feeling. Asymmetries, different volumes, hair textures that invite you to want to touch them… Feelings behind a stocking, hugs to the love. Romanticism is called Feel. Hairdresser Photographer Styling Model

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Felicitas Ordás & Felicitas Hair Team David Arnal Felicitas Ordás Judith López

DISCONNECT

24 SALON MANAGEMENT 26 PRODUCTS 28 TOP COLOURISTS 35 SHORT 40 MEDIUM 42 LONG

Associate Publisher

| Alex Lendrum

Advertising Agent

disconnect@brouhaha.com.hk | Timmy Leung , Sales Director AD Value Media Hong Kong Limited timmy@advaluemedia.com.hk

Tel: 2559 0680 Marketing | disconnect@brouhaha.com.hk Published by Brouhaha | disconnect@brouhaha.com.hk

44 CURLY 46 COLOUR 51 MEN 54 ARTISTIC 64 IN THE NEWS

IN COLLABORATION WITH Aveda

Babyliss Pro

Create Ion

Davines

FEELING

Framesi

GOLDWELL

JOICO

L’Oréal

MIZUTANI

Oster Professional

Paul Mitchell

Rene Furterer

CONTENTS

70 SALON DESIGN 72 TOOLS

Renovo Essentials Revlon Professional

Schwarzkopf

Shiseido Professional

TIGI

Wella Professionals

Ybera

Yvonne Hair

DESIGNED BY Art Director | Bruce Wong Editor | Erica Ho Editor | Shirley Ma AD Value Media HK Limited

Room 1903, 19/F, Pacific Plaza, 410 Des Voeux Road West, Hong Kong

Tel: 2559 0680 Fax: 2803 0529

www.advaluemedia.com.hk

Whilst all reasonable endeavors have been made to check the accuracy of the information contained within this publication, DISCONNECT does not warrant the accuracy of the information contained herein. All copyright, trademarks and all other intellectual property rights in the information contained within this publication are vested in DISCONNECT. DISCONNECT provides the information within this publication solely for personal use. The information may not be used for any other purpose, including but not limited to, publication, reproduction or transmission without the prior express written permission of DISCONNECT. Information contained within this publication and associated publications may be supplied, whether directly or indirectly by third parties and DISCONNECT cannot warrant the content, accuracy or effectiveness of said information. The user will indemnify DISCONNECT against all claims, liabilities, damages, costs and expenses, including legal fees which may or may not arise out of the use of information of any kind contained within this publication.


WELCOME

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02

HONG KONG’S ESSENTIAL 香港最潮 HAIRDRESSING MAGAZINE 髮型雜誌 Welcome to the ART issue! APPRECIATING art can be pretty intimidating, this month’s Disconnect, gives a look into the works of various artistic creations by the world’s top Stylists [see pages 54-63]. READ our management article on “The Art of Hair Colouring”. Colouring is one of the most popular services carried out in salons today, not only is it profitable for a salon, but it is also a duty to offer professional techniques and current trends to their clients. SHISEIDO PROFESSIONAL held their 2nd Beauty Congress at The Prince Park Tower Tokyo, we were there covering all the shows, seminars, interviews and demonstrations. A big thank you to Ms. April Lau, HK and Taiwan Regional Manager for taking such good care of Disconnect’s Editorial team! MIZUTANI is proud of its long history and tradition of manufacturing scissors: We chat to Mr. Mizutani to discover his thoughts on why he makes one of the world’s best professional Hairdressing scissors. REWARDING hairdressers who push the boundaries of hairdressing: creating and setting the trends in this competitive industry, we put a spotlight on some of the best colourists currently working in Hong Kong. We hope you enjoy this issue! Disconnect is distributed to thousands of Salons throughout Hong Kong free of charge, with the aim to help, educate and motivate success to all Stylists and Salon owners alike.

今期是Disconnect專業美髮雜誌4月「藝術號」。 提及藝術鑑賞,或者會有點嚇人和令人感到拘束。今期Disconnect就帶讀者輕輕鬆鬆地欣賞一些世界 知名髮型師的髮藝創作(詳見第54-63頁)。 染髮已成爲了髮型屋最熱門的服務,對髮型屋而言它無疑是一龐大的商機,同時還為客人提供專業技 術服務和流行趨勢的資訊。細閱我們的文章《‘色’者生存》,發掘更多染髮的資訊。 第二屆Shiseido Professional Beauty Congress於日本東京皇家王子大飯店花園塔舉行,Disconnect遠 赴當地全程直擊活動的髮型秀、研討會、訪問和髮藝示範。在此再次感謝品牌的香港及台灣區總經理 April Lau小姐對Disconnect編輯團隊的悉心款待。 源遠流長的品牌歷史和剪刀製作的傳統手藝,奠定了MIZUTANI作爲全球其中一個首屈一指的專業美 髮剪刀的地位。我們訪問了品牌現時的掌舵人水谷先生,深入了解品牌背後的理念。 一眾髮型師多年來不斷創新,力求突破,並致力在這個競爭激烈的行業中引領潮流,拓闊美髮業的界 限。所以這次我們就對一些在本港默默耕耘的染髮師予以表揚。 希望大家喜歡今期的内容!Disconnect可在數以千計的香港髮型屋免費取閱,讓髮型屋經營者與髮型 師掌握最新趨勢和學習資訊,與業界一起創造理想成績。

Philip George Publisher 出版人, Disconnect Hair Magazine Email: disconnect@brouhaha.com.hk 19th floor, Unit E1, Hong Kong Industrial Bldg, 444-452 Des Veoux Rd., HK












Email: revlon.prof_hk@yahoo.com.hk Revlon Professional HK






再生防脫髮精華 VHT ATP 增強版

連續 10 年法國藥房防脫髮精華銷量 No. 1* NEW FORMULATION

*IMS Health – Pharmatrend – 至2014年7月止調查數據,防脫髮精華安瓶於法國銷售數量及價值


RENE FURTERER 革新推出再生防脫髮精華 VHT ATP 增強版,蘊含全新 專利配方 ATP三磷酸腺苷,它是細胞唯一能夠使用的能量形態,可傳送 及儲存營養,並於細胞代謝過程中發揮功效。

ATP三磷酸腺苷有效於毛乳頭細胞中發揮三重功效,包括: 抑制及延緩毛囊退化 延長頭髮生長週期,提升生長因子質素 穩固髮根

根據皮膚科臨床研究測試, 使用後3個月頭髮於生長期數量

+4,583

*

*經臨床驗證,19位有脫髮問題人士,連續3個月使用再生防脫髮精華VHT後,於脫髮區 (平均頭皮面積的40%) 的生長期頭髮增長。 使用後1個月已增長3,826條頭髮。

「深層修護防脫髮療程」步驟: PREPARE 準備

WASH 清潔

增加其後 療程功效

TREATMENT 護理

增加毛囊 血液微循環

10倍

COMPLEXE 5 皇牌活髮精華油

FORTICEA Stimulating Shampoo 防脫髮洗髮水

深層清潔頭皮,加速血液循環, 刺激頭髮生長及穩固髮根

有助毛囊吸收養份,刺激頭髮新生

Hair Spa: 中環都爹利街1號5樓501室 Room 501, 5th Floor, 1 Duddell Street, Central 電話Tel:3543 1588 ReneFURTERER 香港總代理

新配方

7倍

Hair Treatment Centre: 中環威靈頓街17-19號香港工商大廈4樓402室 Room 402, 4th Floor, Hong Kong House, 17-19 Wellington Street, Central 電話Tel:3483 0017

ReneFURTERER 香港總代理

TRIPHASICVHT ATP INTENSIF 再生防脫髮精華VHT ATP增強版 防止頭皮組織纖維老化, 提供頭髮生長所需之養份, 令頭髮重新健康生長

全線莎莎,指定萬寧及專業髮廊有售 All SASA, Designated Mannings and Professional Salons

香港獨家總代理HK Sole Agent:Supergo Company Limited

查詢電話Tel:3951 1599

www.renefurtererhk.com






Peter Prosser & Sam Millard - Peter Prosser

SALON MANAGEMENT |

24

The Art of Hair Colouring

by Philip George


In the past, the majority of colour work involved covering grey hair and it was not necessary for salons to have a colouring specialist. But today’s clients have become increasingly colour conscious and aware of the different types and trends of colouring.

Popular selling points in new hair colouring product launches 新發佈的染髮產品的常見賣點:

In smaller salons, there may not be enough work for a fulltime colourist but there should be at least one person who specializes in colour even if they are employed as a stylist.

72% Brighten or illuminate 提亮髮色

If a salon employs a technician: the colourist should promote their craft by working closely with the stylist— this is a key relationship in determining the success of a colour service. The two need to work together for the clients’ benefit, whilst respecting each other’s decisions and concepts.

54% Ease of use 簡單易用

Many salons are simply unaware of the potential profit from colouring. The problem does not lie in the products used, but in the individual knowledge of how to use them. Recent research on the hair colourant market in Asia Pacific over the next few years shows that the market, valued at an estimated USD400 million, is expected to grow a massive 110% between now and 2018. Globally, the most popular claims in hair colouring new product launches are those that help to brighten or illuminate the hair (72% of new hair colouring products launched recently carried the claim), long lasting (62%), ease of use (54%) and botanical/herbal (44%). Closely influenced by developments in chemistry and cosmetic manufacturing, the range of hair colours and products available today is enormous. Hairdressers can choose from a colour wheel of reds, browns, blondes and everything in between. Stylists can apply a host of different colour trends; apply highlights, lowlights, Ombré, dip-dye, bronde (shade between blonde/brown), or natural and bright colours. Colouring is one of the most popular services carried out in salons today, not only is it profitable for a salon, but it is also a duty to offer professional techniques and current trends to their clients. Hong Kong hairdressers need to upgrade their skills and knowledge by attending product companies’ colour classes and researching tutorial websites.

The hair colourant market in Asia Pacific is expected to grow a massive 110% between now and 2018. 由現在至2018 年,亞太區染髮市場預料會大 幅增長110%。

62% Long lasting 色澤持久 44% Botanical/herbal 植物成分

以往髮型屋不一定有染髮師專門負責染髮,因爲大多數的 染髮工作都不外乎將白髮染黑。然而時移世易,今時今日 的客人愈來愈着重髮色,對髮色種類和潮流趨勢的認知也 大大提升。 對小型的髮型屋來説,聘請一位全職的染髮師也許不划 算,因為工作量未必多,但至少應該有一位擅長染髮的髮 型師。 如果你的髮型屋聘請染髮師,那麽他/她應該要和髮型師緊 密合作,並從中磨練技術。染髮師和髮型師的合拍程度會 直接影響染髮服務的優劣,兩者應以客人的利益為依歸, 同時尊重彼此的想法和決定。 不少髮型屋經營者尚未意識到染髮服務的潛在商機,也忽 略了染髮的關鍵不在於用甚麽產品,而是懂不懂得正確使 用產品。 近日有研究亞太區染髮市場未來幾年的發展的調查估計, 現時的染髮業務市值接近4億美元,並預測由現在至2018 年,市場增長率會高達110%。另一項有趣的統計是關於全 球新發佈的染髮產品的賣點,調查發現新品推出時,最常 見的產品標示包括: 提亮髮色(72%新近發佈的產品均帶 此標榜),色澤持久(62%),簡單易用(54%)和植物成 分(44%)。 髮色的演變與化學研發和彩妝發展息息相關,現時市面上 的髮色色調千變萬化,相關產品亦多不勝數。髮型師可從 紅、棕、金等色系甚或當中任何相交的色彩中任意挑選, 又可嘗試糅合不同的髮色潮流、選擇挑染、暗色、深淺漸 進、浸染、bronde(介乎金色和棕色之間的色調)或自然 鮮亮的顔色。 當下,染髮成爲了髮型屋最熱門的服務。對髮型屋來説, 這不只帶來利潤,同時還為客人提供專業技術服務和流行 趨勢的資訊。香港的髮型師可參加各大產品公司舉辦的染 髮培訓課程和瀏覽網上的染髮教學影片,從而提升技能和 增進知識,並於染髮的藝術領域大放異彩。

Resource tutorial 有關網上染髮教學,可瀏覽: www.facebook.com/disconnect.edu


PRODUCTS

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DAVID MALLETT BEARD BALM Formulated with Keravis, a powerful vegetable protein which gives deep penetration and strength. The product contains a very mild scent combination of bergamot and yuzu to freshen the beard. 採用Keravis配方,其高效 能植物蛋白可深層滲透和強 韌鬍鬚。產品散發佛手柑和 柚子淡香,帶來清新舒爽 的體驗。

AVEDA PUREFORMANCE™ POMADE Provides strong, pliable hold with excellent control. Water-based, nongreasy formula hydrates, while adding texture and definition. 締造強而有彈性的定型效 果。配方水潤,保濕而不油 膩,為髮絲增添健康光澤和 層次感。

PAUL MITCHELL MITCH HARDWIRED® MAXIMUM HOLD/ SPIKING GLUE FOR MEN

LAKMÉ K.STYLE COOL X-TREME ULTRA STRONG HOLD GEL

It provides long lasting powerhouse control, distributes easily through damp or dry hair. Does not flake.

A long lasting gel that promotes shine and control. Excellent in humid climates, does not flake and washes out easily.

為造型提供強力支撐,無論 於乾或濕髮上都易於均勻塗 抹,不會出現白屑問題。

有效為造型帶來亮澤感和持 久定型。超強耐潮,易於清 洗,不會留有薄片殘垢。

MEN’S STYLING


JOICO POWER SCULPTING GEL Great for fine or coarse hair – alcohol-free. Opal Powder delivers dazzling iridescence and elasticity, while AquaLastik (our deep-sea antioxidant) protects strands from heat styling – all the way up to 450 degrees. 不含酒精的高效定型啫喱, 適合細軟或粗硬的髮質。蘊 含的蛋白石粉末賦予髮絲光 澤和彈性。AquaLastik深 海抗氧化分子更可保護髮絲 在造型時免受熱力損傷,最 高可抵受450度高溫。

RENE FURTERER STYLING VEGETAL SCULPTING GELSTRONG HOLD Gives long-lasting hold and structure for creative hair movements. Sprayed at the roots, it creates volume, maintains hydration and has a new “Vegetal sorbet” fragrance. 長效定型,使造型時刻保持 最佳狀態。塗於髮根,就 可營造豐盈感,鎖住髮絲 水分,並同時享受嶄新的 Vegetal sorbet芳香體驗。

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL POKER PASTE HOMME REPOSITIONABLE COMPACT PASTE A non-sticky, long lasting, repositional paste without stiffness and easy to wash out. Creates texture with matte finish and good shaped bluff effect. 質地輕爽不黏膩、造型持 久、更可輕易再次塑型而 不會有殘留物及容易清 洗。簡便易用,能即時塑 造立體、有層次感及啞色 的鬆厚造型。

PRODUCTS

TIGI BED HEAD FOR MEN MATTE SEPARATION WORKABLE WAX Creates texture and definition, matte finish and good hold ability. Great on short hair for spikes or something short and sleek. 增添頭髮的質感和鮮明 度,為最後造型帶來啞緻 效果和持久定型,在塑造 短髮的淩厲線條或光滑感 方面表現尤其出色。


TOP COLOURISTS

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HONG KONG TOP COLOURISTS 香港出色染髮師 Rewarding hairdressers who push the boundaries of hairdressing: creating and setting the trends in this competitive industry. Disconnect acknowledges the professionalism and skills of Hong Kong’s top Hair colourists. Showcasing the stars of today and tomorrow that have skill, ambition and passion for hair colouring, new creative thinking, entrepreneurial spirit, and the kind of fashion awareness that keeps our industry moving forward. 一眾髮型師多年來不斷創新,力求突破,並致力在這個競 爭激烈的行業中引領潮流,拓闊美髮業的界限,值得我們 表揚。

Disconnect今期特此介紹當下髮色界的紅人和明日之星, 以茲嘉許香港各優秀染髮師的專業精神及非凡造詣。他們 各懷絕技,擁有創新思維、創業精神以及時尚觸覺,對染 髮事業滿懷抱負和熱忱,在推動髮型界發展方面實在功不 可沒。 No particular order 排名不分先後


Michael Ho Technician Director, IL Colpo

Statement 感言: “For me, hair colour is important that it even outweighs cut technique. Nowadays, the standard of Hong Kong stylists’ hair colouring technique has improved a lot and almost catches up with European standard. However, with just few juniors prefer to focus on colour than cut, it is crucial for us to devote more time to education and attracting more juniors to explore the world of colour.” 「顏色對於整個染髮造型來說十分關鍵,甚至可說是比剪髮更為重要。近年,香 港髮型師的染髮技術大有改進,可媲美歐美的水平。只是現時大部分學徒都偏向 學剪髮而忽略染髮,我們需要投放更多時間在人材培訓方面,使更多新人明白及 享受染髮的樂趣。」

Product company endorsement 愛好品牌: TIGI


TOP COLOURISTS

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Zoe Ong

Executive Technical Director, NEXT

Statement 感言: “We’re constantly evolving and trying to push the boundaries of our hair industry through new products and equipment application.” 「美髮業界不斷進化,不斷求新,透過靈活應用美髮產品及工具,將以往的不可 能變為今天的無限可能。」

Product company endorsement 愛好品牌: Wella Professionals


Sean Chiu Stylist, Momo Salon

Statement 感言: “I enjoy tailoring a special colour for each client. It is very satisfying and makes me passionate towards hair colouring. My next goal is to be the global winner of Goldwell ColorZoom Challenge. It drives me to work harder and keeps me improving my colouring technique and creativity.” 「我喜歡為每一位顧客度身訂造獨一無二的顏色,而從中得到的滿足感正正 就是我熱衷於染髮的原因。我下一個目標就是希望成為Goldwell ColorZoom Challenge的全球總冠軍。這目標推動我更努力工作,不斷提升自己的染髮技術以 及創意。」

Product company endorsement 愛好品牌: GOLDWELL


TOP COLOURISTS

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Kammy Ma

Technical Director, Headquarters

Statement 感言: “Experience the collision between Colour and Fashion!” 「感受染髮產品為潮流帶來的衝擊!」

Product company endorsement 愛好品牌: Wella Professionals


Roy Cheng

Technical Director, 1st Ave Hair Spa by RENE FURTERER

Statement 感言: “Being a Technical Director has always been my goal and now it has come true. Apart from giving advice on hairstyle and colour, we also need to be familiar with the current trends in order to provide the best service.” 「一直以來,成為Technical Director都是我的目標。為客人提供意見時,除了 建議他們可配合什麼髮型或髮色,亦需熟悉潮流趨勢,才得以帶給客人專業的服 務。」

Product company endorsement 愛好品牌: RENE FURTERER


Calvin Yau

Creative Director, IL Colpo Platinum

Statement 感言: “Whenever I design hairstyles for a client, I focus on enhancing the face shape, character and disposition. Hair colouring is similar to a painter adding colour to his or her work: in that it highlights the work and makes it come alive. Taking the hairstyle and seasonal trends into consideration, I hope to create uniqueness for every client, whilst making the hairstyle more three-dimensional and perfect.” 「每當設計髮型時,除了考慮客人的喜好、職業和場合外,我往往會著重突出他 們個人的面型、性格和氣質。而顏色挑染就如畫家為作品加上顏色般將整件事立 體化,生命化!我亦按照髮型和季度潮流,通過顏色挑染造就每個客人的獨特個 性及氣質,使整個髮型顯得更立體及完美!」

Product company endorsement 愛好品牌: FEELING


SHORT

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35

KEVIN KAHAN

SHORT

個性短髮

STYLES


AMPARO FERNÁNDEZ & LA PELU TEAM

PAUL STAFFORD

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ANGELO VALLILLO - ZULLO AND HOLLAND

ROBERT KIRBY LONDON - ID HAIR

SHORT 36


ANGELO SEMINARA


KEVIN KAHAN

WILLIAM DE RIDDER

KEVIN KAHAN

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SCOTT SLOAN & JORDAN HONE

SHORT 38


ROBERT KIRBY LONDON - ID HAIR

F.A.M.E. TEAM HARRY BOOCOCK & CHRIS HORSMAN - THE HAIR STUDIO

EDITOR’S PICK Shiseido Professional The Hair Care Adenovital Root Spray An innovative scalp sunscreen and styling agent. Developed with sun care technology, this styling spray protects the scalp from damaging UV rays while enhancing hair volume by lifting the hair from the roots. 頭皮層紫外線修護及髮絲增 量。採用防曬技術的造型產 品,為頭皮層加護,隔絕有害 紫外線,同時提升髮絲,營造 豐盈空氣感。


DANA LYSENG

VIVIENNE MACKINDER - GRAPHICA

TRACEY HUGHES BY TRACY HUGHES EDUCATION

MEDIUM |

40

中庸之道

MEDIUM STYLES


PETER PROSSER & SAM MILLARD - PETER PROSSER

FELLOWSHIP PROJECT X TEAM

JO HANSFORD

ANDRE FAIVA - REVOLUTION HAIRDRESSING


DANIELLA BARCA - ROKK EBONY

TRACEY HUGHES BY TRACY HUGHES EDUCATION

FELICITAS ORDÁS - FELICITAS HAIR TEAM

LONG |

42

各取所長

LONG

STYLES


ANGELO VALLILLO - ZULLO AND HOLLAND

JO HANSFORD

THE RENÉ FURTERER PARIS ARTISTIC TEAM

BRIAN GALLAGHER - GALLAGHER & HORNER


NICKY OLIVER HAIRDRESSING

BRETT ALBURY – MURPHY GOZZARD

MARC ANTONI

CURLY |

44

CURLY

鬈戀

STYLES


BRIAN GALLAGHER - GALLAGHER & HORNER

F.A.M.E. TEAM

KEVIN KAHAN

FELICITAS ORDÁS - FELICITAS HAIR TEAM


各適其色

STYLES

F.A.M.E. TEAM

COLOUR |

46

COLOUR


MARC ANTONI

F.A.M.E. TEAM

FELLOWSHIP COLOUR PROJECT TEAM

BRIAN GALLAGHER - GALLAGHER & HORNER


ANGELO VALLILLO - ZULLO AND HOLLAND

PAUL STAFFORD

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ANGELO VALLILLO - ZULLO AND HOLLAND

ANGELO SEMINARA

COLOUR 48


MARC ANTONI


JO HANSFORD

PETER PROSSER & SAM MILLARD - PETER PROSSER

KEVIN KAHAN

ANDRE FAIVA - REVOLUTION HAIRDRESSING


MEN

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51

JAMIE STEVENS

MEN’S

男士髮型

STYLES


EDITOR’S PICK Baxter of California Hard Cream Pomade Firm hold, natural finish pomade. Powered by natural ingredients, this lightweight, solid styling cream provides textured definition and strong hold for hours with a natural, low-shine finish. 成分天然和質地輕爽的造型乳霜,可塑造出自然、啞光和具 質感的造型,其強效定型力使造型不易鬆塌。

MEN’S HAIRDRESSING FEDERATION CAROLE HADDAD

JAMIE STEVENS

MEN

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SAM MILLARD, ASHLEY THOMPSON - PETER PROSSER

SAM MILLARD, ASHLEY THOMPSON - PETER PROSSER

ROBERT KIRBY LONDON - ID HAIR

ROBERT KIRBY LONDON - ID HAIR


ARTISTIC

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54

絲展髮術

STYLES

MARC ANTONI

ARTISTIC


MARC ANTONI


ANGELO VALLILLO - ZULLO AND HOLLAND

ARTISTIC |

56


ANGELO VALLILLO - ZULLO AND HOLLAND


F.A.M.E. TEAM

ARTISTIC |

58


F.A.M.E. TEAM


ANGELO SEMINARA

ARTISTIC |

60


ANGELO SEMINARA


FELICITAS ORDÁS - FELICITAS HAIR TEAM

ARTISTIC |

62


FELICITAS ORDÁS - FELICITAS HAIR TEAM


IN THE NEWS

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Creative Stage - Hirofumi Kera

The Shiseido Professional Beauty Congress 2015, hosted by Shiseido Professional, was held on Monday, March 9, 2015 at The Prince Park Tower Tokyo and was attended by about 1,100 invitees, including salon owners from Japan and eight other Asian countries.

unique creations plus the finale presented by Hirofumi Kera of Shiseido Beauty Creation Research Center.

The Congress is organized annually with the aim of strengthening Shiseido’s ties with major salons and enhancing brand loyalty.

亞洲國家地區的髮型屋經營者和業界精英應邀出席。

Programs offered in this year’s meeting included seminars on branding and personnel development for salon management, hair technique demonstrations focusing on Tokyo’s latest styles and culminating in a striking hair show: The Kamikuri Project team from Japan and the Malaysia Beauty Creative Team were invited to present

Shiseido Professional在2015年3月9日(星期一),於日本東京 皇家王子大飯店舉行Shiseido Professional Beauty Congress 2015。當日會議場面浩大,有近1,100位來自日本和其他8個 一年一度的Beauty Congress旨在加強品牌與亞洲各主要髮 型屋的聯繫以及鞏固他們對品牌的支持。 今年的會議日程包括有關品牌建立和髮型屋管理的研討會, 髮藝示範和揭示東京最新潮流的精彩髮型秀。日本表演團 隊Kamikuri Project和馬來西亞Beauty Creative Team表演 團隊向來賓展示了各具特色的髮式造型創作,最後還有來自 Shiseido創意研究所的計良宏文先生壓軸演出。


Shiseido Professional Trend Stage

Japan Stage - Kamikuri Project

Hair technique demonstrations by kakimoto arms

Hong Kong delegation

Asia Stage - Malaysia Beauty Creative Team


IN THE NEWS

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66

All regional winners

SHISEIDO PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY INNOVATOR AWARD 2014 冠軍雲集 引領亞洲美學潮流

Mr. Jean Philippe Charrier, Corporate Officer, Responsible for Asia Pacific Business Strategy, Chief Officer of Professional Business Operations Division, Shiseido Co., Ltd.

A highlight of the Shiseido Professional Beauty Congress 2015, hosted by Shiseido Professional was an award ceremony for the Grand Prix winners of the Beauty Innovator Award, selected from each participating location. This is a photo contest launched last year to develop Beauty Innovators, young hair designers with creative talent expected to lead the beauty sector in the future. This year the Beauty Innovator Award Hong Kong was given to Mr. Dick Cheng of Reborn Hair Salon, for his creation ‘The Victorious Lady General’.

For more information 查詢 : Shiseido Professional

Dick Cheng with his winning entry

由Shiseido Professional主辦的Beauty Congress 2015在剛 剛過去的3月份於日本東京盛大舉行,當中的亮點落在齊集 去年度Beauty Innovator Award各個賽區冠軍得主的Grand Prix頒獎典禮。有關攝影造型比賽銳意發掘和栽培具備創意 和才華的年輕一代髮型師成爲Beauty Innovators,引領亞 洲的美學潮流。 香港賽區由Reborn Hair的Dick Cheng憑著作品《勝利的女 將軍》奪得冠軍殊榮。

Tel 電話 : 2262 6962


Hirofumi Kera

Japan Stage - Kamikuri Project

Creative Stage - Hirofumi Kera Taichi@Side Burn

Creative Stage - Hirofumi Kera

Shiseido Professional Trend Stage Hair Show

訪問品牌髮藝創意總監

Disconnect was invited to the Shiseido Professional Beauty Congress 2015 Hair Show held at The Prince Park Tower Tokyo.

亞洲髮型界一年一度的盛事Shiseido Professional Beauty Congress 2015假座日本東京皇家王子大飯店舉行, Disconnect有幸獲邀出席於並見證盛會。

We met up with Mr. Taichi of Side Burn Salon and Shiseido Professional Top Hair & Makeup Artist – Mr. Hirofumi Kera.

在赴日期間,我們訪問了兩位參與髮型匯演的髮型師,分別 是來自Side Burn Salon的太市先生和資生堂日本Top Hair & Makeup Artist計良宏文先生。

The “Kamikuri Project” show team leader Mr. Taichi, explained that he wanted to express the art of ‘Japanese Classical Beauty’. Six models had their haircut on stage, using a two-section technique: ‘Surface and underneath’. Hair colour reflected the classical colours of Japan.

太市先生是Kamikuri Project表演團隊的擔綱首領,他表示 團隊想演繹出日本的經典美學。他們採用了「底面」雙層 修剪技巧,在台上即席為6位模特兒創作髮型。髮色方面就 用上了最能反映日式經典的色彩。

Mr. Hirofumi Kera presented the star performance of the night. Inviting the audience to step into his creative world, he combined stunning hair creations, original music performed by live DJs, dazzling costumes and make-up. His “Past and Present” show took a month to conceptualize and culminated in him performing contrasting extravagant hair creations on three models. Kera san joined Shiseido Professional in 1992. In addition to hairdressing and make-up for Shiseido Professional’s advertisements, he works as chief hairdresser for numerous ‘Maisons’ in the New York and Paris Collections. He is Shiseido Professional’s Creative Director for hair.

Facebook: Shiseido Professional HK

說到當晚髮型匯演的高潮,就要數計良宏文先生精湛的髮 藝獻技。他將髮型創作、DJ現場打奏的原創音樂、目不暇 給的華衣美服和絢麗彩妝完美結合,令觀衆完全投入他的 創作世界。 計良宏文先生告訴我們,他用了一個月時間來構思出《過 去與現在》這個表演主題,為3位模特兒打造出與別不同的 華麗髮式。 計良宏文先生於1992年加入Shiseido Professional,現時他 是品牌的髮藝創意總監,一直以來他除了參與品牌廣告的 髮型和彩妝設計以外,更在巴黎和紐約時裝週中擔任多個 品牌的髮型總監。


IN THE NEWS

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68

Can you tell us the story of MIZUTANI’s founder, Mr. Mizutani and its history? MIZUTANI is proud of its long history and tradition of manufacturing scissors. The first-ever pair of MIZUTANI scissors was produced in Asakusa, Tokyo in 1921. These scissors were designed and created out of the founder’s passion and desire to have better scissors. His tireless quest for scissors that would cut properly and be easy to handle at the same time brought him enthusiastic support from his customers. Why is it important to continue the tradition of handcrafting, how does this differ from Machine made? The integration of materials and craftsmanship is something that can be achieved only because our scissors are handcrafted. Not accepting second best, such a policy gives MIZUTANI no other option than handcrafting. MIZUTANI’s scissors slowly take form in the earnest hands of our craftsmen, step by step, with great care taken to avoid unnecessarily straining the materials. Our scissors are not standardized articles made by machine. All are “Not the same” so there is warmth in each and it is fit and finished by hand one by one from the steel plate. Please explain the “sub-zero process” and the importance of cobalt and other metals in the steel processing. Less than 0 degree treatment processing is called “sub-zero process” literally. It is processed just after

quenching. Then, annealing is performed after sub zero treatment. By this process, prevention of change in dimensions and resistance of abrasion such as delayed crack and delayed bend are improved. MIZUTANI constantly tests new steels, this results in products made using a series of revolutionary steels such as STELLITE, DAMA and NANO POWDER METAL, which have brought MIZUTANI high praise. We also use rare metals such as cobalt, which has excellent antiabrasion properties and resists high temperatures and rust; molybdenum, which enhances adhesiveness and provides lasting sharpness; and vanadium, which creates a finer steel structure and enhances its pliability and anti-abrasion properties. What unique design factors do MIZUTANI have, and how important is an ergonomic form in today’s market? All models are designed with close attention to detail and are developed with passion and sophistication. Scissors that lack one of the three elements — function, quality, and beauty — cease to be MIZUTANI scissors. In designing products, we at MIZUTANI continuously seek an added value that transcends the material. We seek something that cannot be explained by numeric values, such as the warmth and comfort of handling, and the joy of holding and using quality scissors. There are various ways of haircut technique today. Our scissors developed with an ergonomic design aimed at preventing wrist/carpal tunnel issues. We have reconsidered to make our scissors easier on the hands, locating the finger holes in the most natural place.


What advise would you give to a Hairdresser who is choosing to buy a good pair of scissors? You should always ask your distributor to try the handles fit feeling, the cutting feeling with different materials, how hair slides by using different blades curvature and the smoothness of thinning scissors. The important thing is how to use and the proper usage of scissors for the purpose or for the matching to each level, not only the specification of scissors. And you may consider about the differences of slide cut and blunt cut by the different shape blades, of course thinning scissors cut percent also the difference of texture control, volume control and smoothness. When you buy MIZUTANI’s scissors, you can get the satisfying after sales service and you can use your scissors for 30 years. 可以告訴我們有關MIZUTANI的歷史以及創辦人水谷先生 的事跡嗎? 我們為品牌的悠久歷史和傳統引以為榮。創辦人水谷先生對 剪刀設計的無比熱誠及精益求精,促使他在1921年於東京 淺草MIZUTANI工廠研製出第一把屬於自己品牌的剪刀。 他熱衷於研製易於使用及更鋒利耐用的剪刀,贏得不少用 家的信任。

承傳人手鑄造的傳統有何重要?它和機器生產有何不同? 全人手製作的剪刀是材料和匠藝的完美結合,一般的剪刀無 可攀比。MIZUTANI一直秉持不求其次的製作方針,我們 相信沒有其他生產方法會比人手製作更有保證。工匠用手 專心致志地一步步慢慢研製剪刀,避免了對材料造成不必 要的損耗。 有別於機器「倒模」,我們每一把剪刀都是獨一無二的,從 鋼板切割到最後打磨而成的製成品,都由他們一手包辦,所 以每一把剪刀都注入了工匠的熱誠。

請講解一下sub-zero process以及鈷和其他金屬在鋼材加工的 重要性。 鋼材淬火〈加熱後急速冷卻〉,然後進行稱為sub-zero process的零下冷凍處理,才退火。一連串步驟,可大大防 止鋼材變形,使其更耐磨,並減少延遲裂紋和彎曲的情況 出現。MIZUTANI不斷試驗新的鋼材,例如起用大馬士 革鋼、司太立合金和納米金屬粉末等一系列革新鋼材鑄造

剪刀,就受到用家的高度讚賞。我們亦有採用各種稀有金 屬,例如鈷、鉬和釩。鈷具有良好的耐磨性,能夠抵受高 溫和防鏽;鉬能增強黏性,並令剪刀保持持久銳利;釩能 令鋼結構更緊密,加強柔韌性和耐磨性。

MIZUTANI有何獨特之處?人體工學在現今市場上的重要 性在哪? 我們所有型號的剪刀設計都着重細節,而且是以熱誠和長年 累月的經驗開發而成的。「機能、品質、美觀」三者任欠其 一,都不可稱之為MIZUTANI的剪刀。設計產品時,我們 永不停歇,務求超越材料的限制。工匠的熱誠、剪刀握上手 的舒適感和使用一把優質的剪刀時所帶來的愉悅這些都無法 用數值來解釋,亦是我們一向所追求的。現今剪髮的技術十 分多元化。我們研發的剪刀加上符合人體工學的設計,防止 腕關節出現問題。為使剪刀更易握上手,我們更把指孔設置 在最自然的位置。

有甚麼建議給正想購買一把好剪刀的髮型師? 你應該多向品牌的經銷商提出試用,感受一下剪刀手柄是否 貼合手型,不同材料製的剪刀下刀時的感覺,使用不同刀刃 弧度的剪刀時頭髮會如何溜動以及打薄剪刀刀刃是否平滑。 重點是剪刀的用法,你要懂得配合不同目的或者程度恰當 地使用剪刀,而不單單只是留意剪刀的規格。你亦可根據滑 剪和齊剪的不同, 使用不同形狀的刀 片。當然打薄剪刀 的打薄量,質感和 髮量的控制,開合 的流暢度亦是考慮 之列。一旦你購買 了MIZUTANI的剪 刀,你可以得到滿 意的售後服務,一 把剪刀隨時足以用 上三十年。 Mr. Hirokazu Mizutani, President of MIZUTANI scissors

For more information 查詢 : Yvonne Hair Styling Wholesale Co. Ltd Tel 電話 : 9192 9449 / 2565 7021


SALON DESIGN

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70

01

SALON DESIGN 髮型屋設計新思

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03


05

04 07

08

06

09

01 RAMI JABALI SALON - DUBAI

06 WOLFGANG ZIMMER - BERLIN

02 DANNY JELACA SALON - MIAMI BEACH

07 DANIEL GALVIN SALON - LONDON

03 THE DRAWING ROOM - NEW YORK

08 SIMPLE HAIR SALON DESIGN - USA

04 DAVID MALLETT SALON - PARIS

09 FARKAS MANTHEI FRISÖRE - BERLIN

05 HAIR SALON EVELYN - ITALY


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TOOLS

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72

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04 03

TRADE

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TOOLS 美髮工具

01 XTAVA PROFESSIONAL INFRARED FLAT IRON WITH TOURMALINE CERAMIC PLATES - (SILK EDITION BLACK)

07

02 BABYLISS WET - DRY STRAIGHTENER 03 MIRAKI ALUMINIUM SHAPER RAZOR 04 GHD CURVE CLASSIC CURL SIDE 05 BIO IONIC 10X ULTRALIGHT SPEED DRYER

06 MIRAKI NEUTRAL GRIP SCISSOR 07 KISS INSTAWAVE AUTOMATIC CURLER

08 PAUL MITCHELL EXPRESS ION CURL XS

06

09 TRI SAMURAI KITTY 10 BOKER STRAIGHT RAZOR TREE

BRAND BROWN CANVAS MICARTA

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09

10




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