PHABRIK Magazine Fall2014/Winter2015

Page 1

Display until March 2015 PHABRIKmagazine.com




CONTENT

30 Layover

fashion 11 sweater weather 30 layover: prologue 50 layover: epilogue 65 splash

architecture 78 80

dubai to build world’s largest mall best new buildings in the UK & EU

trends 22 46

women’s trends men’s trends

beauty

Photography: studio.e.info@gmail.com

15 48 60 72 76

a beautiful season whiskers a go go scents to fall for arch supports skin savers

profile 24

art from the heart

83

vincent moutault

art 4  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015

ANNETTE GORTZ dress MARIE SAINT PIERRE slip STUART WEITZMAN shoes All at blus.com

92

graphic design of jean paul gaultier


PHABRIKmagazine.com  5


Editor’s

Note

PHABRIK art+design’s mission has always been to explore local and global talent including emerging and established designers, artists and photographers. The world is an amazing place, and PHABRIK aims to discover and share stories of life experiences through art and culture. My personal philosophy is to support and promote as much creativity as possible. It is a joy to be able to provide exposure to fresh talent! No matter where I travel, my primary focus is not only on prominent, established designers, but also on emerging artists who are so often ignored. Prominent designers most certainly merit our attention, but PHABRIK strives to appreciate artists at all levels, and be open to their exciting ideas and innovations. It is important to try to see through the eyes of artists and designers who seek to share their experiences and create something meaningful. We can think about where we spend our time and money and try to support local. This helps give us a more well-rounded and multifaceted perspective. In order for emerging designers to make an impact and have their voices heard, we need to work together as a community. I would like extend a special thank you to the PHABRIK family that has been with us from the beginning. Additionally, I am excited to give a warm welcome to our new contributors and am pleased to introduce Noella, who joins our creative team. Finally, a big thanks to all of the artists and writers working with us this season. They have shared their unique views and have exceeded expectations in helping us accomplish our goals. We hope you enjoy their work featured in this issue. Sandra Sing Fernandes Editor in Chief + Creative Director PHABRIK Magazine

EDITOR IN CHIEF + CREATIVE DIRECTOR Sandra Sing Fernandes BEAUTY EDITOR James Kershaw COPY EDITORS Noella Yeung + Danielle Fuechtmann DESIGNERS Noella Yeung + Derek Jagodzinsky AMERICAN CORRESPONDENTS Diane Kosup, Michael Lisnett + Tracey Ellis UK CORRESPONDENT João Paulo Nunes DIRECTOR OF SALES + ADVERTISING Luis Fontes WRITERS João Paulo Nunes, James Kershaw, Janis Galloway, Danielle Fuechtmann + Tracey Ellis

PHOTOGRAPHERS Ernest at Studio-e.ca, Corrie Side of Cside Photography, Tracy Grabowski, Harry Fellows, TC Reiner, Javier Ortega, Anais Benoudiz + Semi Ohtomatic

CONTACT PHABRIK Editor: sandra@phabrik.ca Beauty: beauty@phabrik.ca Advertising: ads@phabrik.ca

MAKEUP ARTISTS James Kershaw Paola Orlando represented by abtp.com

CONNECT WITH US www.phabrikmagazine.com @PhabrikMag Phabrik magazine @phabrik

HAIR STYLISTS Davines Session Team: Chantal Girard, Sara Murphy, Jami Cuglietta, Julian Scott, Ray Nanninga + Emma Spense Kelly Bula + Christa Lynn Laska Steven Mark Hugo represented by abtp.com

COVER Photography: Corrie Side Makeup: James Kershaw Model: Lauren B.

STYLISTS Alyssa Blanco, Sandra Sing Fernandes, Jon Harmon + James Kershaw

PUBLISHER PHABRIK art+design corporation Canada ISSN 1925-3036 © 2014 PHABRIK Magazine

6  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015


PHABRIKmagazine.com  7


contributors

MARK ST. JAMES

JAMES KERSHAW

Mark is the multi-talented personality behind Marquis of Fashion Inc. He is a freelance writer, fashion journalist, stylist, photographer, and blogger. His latest projects include marquisoffashion.com, his personal blog reflecting on the latest fashion, style, and celebrity buzz, and fashioncollections.org, offering fashion collection reviews, designer and brand biographies, and fashion news stories.

James is an industry veteran with a prolific career as a makeup artist, stylist and educator with over three decades of experience. His style and beauty articles have been published in many news and print sources including The Vancouver Sun and The Vancouver Province, The Montreal Gazette, The Ottawa Citizen and more. James’ career has been recognized and profiled in Fashion Magazine.

TC REINER

CORRIE SIDE

TC Reiner has photographed fashion, celebrity, and advertising layouts for clients worldwide since 1995. His images have appeared in British Cosmopolitan, American Vogue, W, Harper’s Bazaar, Elle, InStyle, Maxim, Grazia, Amica, etc. A long list of over 100 celebrity clients includes Charlize Theron, Kate Hudson, Kurt Russell, Kelly Preston, Jet Li, Billy Zane, Milla Jovovich, Alek Wek, Steve Buscemi, Jim Caviezel...Reiner makes his home in Santa Barbara, California but continues to travel extensively, and is currently working on several book projects.

Corrie is a photographer specializing in beauty and product photography. She discovered a love of art and aesthetics while completing a B.A. in philosophy and political science. Backing up her training with a constant push to improve, she consistently produces beautiful photography and fine art. Her numerous PHABRIK beauty features can be viewed online at PHABRIK magazine or Cside Photography.

ERNEST DEJESUS

DANIELLE S. FUECHTMANN

Ernest started taking photographs in the eighties as a hobby but slowly made the transition to working as a professional photographer specializing in commercial projects focusing on fashion and beauty. He is a major supporter of the fashion design community and always makes a positive impact with his contributions to creative endeavors.

Danielle is a freelance fashion and lifestyle writer with a passion for digital media. She’s an eager learner and avid reader, and can usually be found writing for a client or her blog, catching up on the latest world news, or posting an update on social media.

8  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015


HARRY FELLOWS

DEREK JAGODZINSKY

Harry Fellows lives in Hastings on Hudson, New York, and his photo studio, Loft 402, is in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. He has been photographing fashion, portraiture and advertising for the past eleven years in New York City. His wife Catherine and he have two children, Isabella and Spike.

Immersed in every facet of the fashion industry, Derek knew what he wanted from a young age. From photography and art, to marketing and design, he feels that “you have to know where fashion came from to know where it’s going.” Derek holds a bachelors degree in design from the University of Alberta and loves the history of fashion and all aspects of art and design. His many talents have helped him to build a strong reputation for consistent excellence in fashion design with his brand, LUXX ready to wear.

JOÃO PAULO NUNES

JANIS GALLOWAY

João Paulo Nunes is the founder and editor of the fashion and lifestyle website thestyleexaminer.com. He is also a style blogger for Huffington Post UK and a London editor for Fashion Trendsetter. He has published articles on fashion, art, design, and architecture in several magazines including Byron, Fashion London, Geil, Muse, Palladium, Out There, Viktor, Schön!, Tatler, and Varon. He has lectured on fashion and design, was a judge on several design and architecture awards and competitions.

Janis is the founder and fashion personality behind the fashion blog Dress Me Dearly, where she shares stories about Canada’s growing fashion and beauty scene. Between blog posts, Janis works as a fashion publicist, wardrobe stylist and style writer.

ANAIS BENOUDIZ

TRACEY ELLIS

Anais Benoudiz is a Venezuelan self-taught fashion and portrait photographer living in Miami. Anais holds a Bachelors degree in International Finance and Marketing, and an MBA from the University of Miami. After many years of working in the marketing and event planning industry, she decided to pursue her dream and mix two of her biggest passions, fashion and photography, to become a full time photographer. Her work has been featured in magazines, blogs and websites from around the world.

Canadian born and raised, Tracey spent most of her twenties being properly ‘anglicised’ in the UK before moving to Paris 7 years ago. With a BA (Hons) degree in English, she started university in Edmonton and completed her degree in Bath, England, following with a Journalism Diploma from the London School of Journalism. Currently residing in South Florida, she continues with various freelance writing projects whilst soaking up the sunshine and Miami culture before moving back to Europe where stories and adventure undoubtedly await.

PHABRIKmagazine.com  9


News is coming this February... Ready to catch it?

#Ready4Davines WWW.STOGRYN.CA WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/STOGRYN.SALES

Proud sponsor of Western Canada Fashion Week


Sweater  Weather Photography: Anais Benoudiz Wardrobe Styling: Alyssa Blanco Model: Jessica Estrada

COLETTE MORDO hooded sweater VANITY FAIR bra and panty


This page Left: I HEART RONSON sweater Bottom: FOREVER21 scarf LE TIGRE sweater VINTAGE hat Opposite page Left: KENSIEGIRL sweater OUT FROM UNDER bra Right: IN CHARGE sweater CAPEZIO short

12  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015


PHABRIKmagazine.com  13


LAUREN KNITWEAR sweater VINTAGE dress 14  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015


Beauty

A

Beautiful S E A S O N

Sumptuous colours and iridescent or velvety textures characterize this season’s eye makeup offerings. Clarins’ new Ombre Matte cream to powder shadows come in a range of timeless rich, neutral shades, just like their Skin Tones mineral eyeshadow quartet. Lise Watier’s limited edition Quatour Feline, leopard print embossed shadows, impart a soft iridescence, as does her waterproof, long wear 24HRS Glam eye shadow pencils. Jane Iredale’s Celebrate eye shadow trio offers matte and soft shimmer shadows to be accented with her subtly shimmered “Jelly Jar” gel eyeliners in purple or green. Elizabeth Arden debuts their new line of soft metallic embellished Precision Glide Eyeliner pencils. A radiant complexion is achieved with products such as Clarins’ new True Radiance Perfect Skin foundation and new Tawny Pink Blush Prodige. Lips may be painted in a variety of textures to suit all tastes, from the gloss finishes of Jane Iredale’s Puregloss or Fresh’s Sugar Shine Lip Treatments, to the rich satin finish of Clarins’ age defying Rouge Éclat Lipstick, to the matte finishes of Lise Watier’s Feline Velvet Lip Lacquer or Cliniques’ new Long Last Soft Matte Lipstick range. All these beauty products make Fall/Winter a truly beautiful season.

PHOTO GR APH Y

+

DIGI TAL

+

ART

C Side Photography

A RT IC L E ,

M AKE UP

ART

DI RE CT ION

James Kershaw PHABRIKmagazine.com  15


P ORT S

OF

Call

Top to bottom: CLARINS True Radiance Perfect Skin Foundation SPF15, JANE IREDALE Celebrate (Mist, Toast, Port) Eye Shadow Trio, Kir Royale Pure Gloss, CLARINS #20 Red Fuchsia Rouge Éclat Age Defying Lipstick, Ombre Matte Cream to Powder Matte Eyeshadows #02 Nude Pink, #04 Rosewood, JANE IREDALE Jelly Jar Gel Eyeliner in Purple, FRESH Sugar Rose Shine Lip Treatment

16  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015


PHABRIKmagazine.com  17


18  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015


G I NGE R

Snap

Top to bottom: CLARINS Ombre Matte Cream to Powder Matte Eyeshadow #01 Nude Beige, LISE WATIER limited edition Quatuor Feline Eyeshadow Quartet,ELIZABETH ARDEN Beautiful Colour Precision Glide Eye Liner #03 Java, LISE WATIER 24 HRS GLAM Waterproof Eyeshadow stick Champagne Glam, CLINIQUE Long Last Lipstick #82 Berry Berry, JANE IREDALE Pure Moist Lipstick Katerina, CLARINS Blush Prodige #07 Tawny Pink, Rouge Éclat Age-Defying Lipstick #19 Chestnut Brown, FRESH Sugar Honey Shine Lip Treatment, LISE WATIER limited edition Rouge Feline Velvet Lip Lacquer

PHABRIKmagazine.com  19


SMOK E

Signals

Top to bottom: CLARINS Ombre Matte Cream to Powder Matte Eyeshadow #06 Earth, #03 Taupe, JANE IREDALE Jelly Jar Gel Eyeliner in Green, ELIZABETH ARDEN Beautiful Colour Precision Eyeliners #02 Slate, #05 Blackberry, #04 Sapphire, CLARINS #13 Skin Tones Eye Quartet Mineral Palette, LISE WATIER Midnight Glam 24HRS Glam Eyeshadow Stick All pages: Lauren B. at PHABRIK artist + model management 20  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015


PHABRIKmagazine.com  21


Women’s

F

Trends

all 2014/Winter 2015 lets you play dress up from one end of the fashion spectrum to the other. Play it soft and pretty in pastels or join the dark side in gothic getup. —Janis Galloway

Gucci

Valentino Viva Pastels Bubblegum shades survived the summer and are still trending for fall. Your must-have investment piece this season is a powder blue or soft lilac hued wool coat à la Gucci and Electric Feather.

Gucci Creatures of Comfort

Alexander McQueen Valentino

Celine

Armani 22  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015

Witchy Woman If Fall 2014/Winter 2015’s runways had you reminiscing on 90’s cult film, The Craft, you were paying attention. The staples? Black velvet mini dresses, knee-high stockings and chokers galore.


Alexander Wang

Jeremy Scott

Athletic Aesthetic Sportswear hits another homerun this season with MVPs Louis Vuitton, Fendi and Miu Miu. Highbrow athletic wear means hitech fabrics, racer backs and mesh detailing for the win. Marni

Miu Miu

Dole and Gabbana

Valentino Alexander McQueen Once Upon a Time It was a storybook ending from designers Alexander McQueen, Valentino and Dolce & Gabbana who presented high fashion versions of our favourite fairytale femme fatales. Snow White to Little Red Riding Hood were brought to life through delicate embroidery, romantic lace and sweeping silhouettes.

Valentino

PHABRIKmagazine.com  23


Artist

Profile

TAKING THE ART WORLD BY STORM, ONE ❤ AT A TIME  |  BY TRACEY ELLIS

H

idden away in a subtle corner of South Florida lives an artist who wears his heart on his sleeve. So, it is only fitting that he is known for his creative artwork featuring hearts. Meet Salvatore Principe: an artist extraordinaire who is a creator, sculptor and painter, as well as an entrepreneur, wine label designer, fashion designer, home décor designer—and much more.

Abstract, modern designs of the ever-lasting symbol of love are dotted around Salvatore’s studio in every colour, shade and hue. How many hearts can one man paint? The answer is infinite when each one is created with sentiment and spirit, each stemming from the inner depths of the artist’s personal journey of heart-rending as well as heart breaking experiences. Salvatore’s Signature Heart Collection began as a tribute to his mother, whom he lost to cancer. “She had such a big heart, and was my biggest support system. I wanted her to live on through my art, through my heart,” he described. His dream to “paint the world with love” began with hearts painted freehand on canvas in natural, muted tones. Soon, he started experimenting with colours and shades, and backgrounds and textures, giving each heart its own distinct style and impression.

Salvatore’s Heart Collection was an instant success, attracting buyers across the world, including celebrities and art collectors. At auctions, his original pieces have accumulated into the hundreds of thousands of dollars. More than just a beautiful piece of art, these “heartworks” touched many people on a deeper level. This inspires Salvatore to spread his ideals of love and positive energy in everything he does. Salvatore’s first favourite artist was Robert Rauschenburg, the American painter known for working with non-traditional materials who helped promote the pop art movement. Other artists whose influences trickled into Salvatore’s work include Jasper Johns, de Kooning, and Franz Klein.

Even before he began his trademark Heart Collection, these artists helped shape Salvatore’s inclination to create abstracts and three-dimensional art. Heartworks piece “I get overwhelmed if I’m in a corner Though each heart Salvatore paints is differwith few materials. I need to have a whole play land of them: ent—some with a thin outline and bold colours, others that are papers, metals, wood, wire, rope, small objects, anything. I more curvaceous and abstract, washed down with watery, pasbuilt a sculpture table where there is a constant flow of rantel hues, and still others with heart-warming, simple sentiments, dom objects I’ve collected to use in my art,” explained Salvasuch as ‘Live Through Love’—they are all imbued with the same tore on his ‘anything goes’ attitude with artistic materials. notion: that we all have a heart, and each is shown in unique ways. 24  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015


Paint the

world

with

love

—Salvatore Principe PHABRIKmagazine.com  25


You can illuminate anything with light and bring it to life.

Lighting equals life. Salvatore’s studio

Without any formal training, Salvatore’s art career began untraditionally in the dark recesses of iconic Studio 54 in New York City, when he was only 19. Working around the rich and famous, he mingled with some of the most creative icons of our time, artists including Mick Jagger, Calvin Klein, Valentino Garavani, and Andy Warhol. Salvatore described those days as a “party in an adult candy store.” Being around famous people who had no limitations made him realise that art is also limitless. Everything he saw in the club was art in some form: pliable and interesting, all with a potential to be transformed into something creative and expressive. Soon, his visionary traits and ambition led him to a position of a light technician at the club, allowing him to tap into his creative energies with the aid of illumination. “Lighting up the dance floor in spectacular ways fills up the soul,” he said. Watching people dance and move with the music and light every night inspired him to create illuminated light sculptures on the dance floor by experimenting with filter gels and projectors. “Lighting is everything,” he explained, “You can illuminate anything with light and bring it to life. Lighting equals life.” This luminary inspiration has stayed with him today in his studio loft, an artist’s haven of painted canvases, sculptures, and eclectic furniture, all magically lit up to create a groovy lounge vibe, like somewhere you would find in the trendy New York or Paris, but very discreet and by invitation only. Each month, Salvatore hosts a social gathering in his loft for friends and clients to come view his latest work while enjoying wine and canapés. He loves engaging with people, interacting with them in a relaxed atmosphere, and often paints or creates art during his socializing. Through these events, Salvatore combines 26  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015

his latest venture, wine, with his art in the most appealing way. “Wine is an art form,” he remarked, “it activates imagination, spurs conversation, and brings people together.” Always the entrepreneur, he explained that he decided to try printing out some of his artwork on labels and attaching them to wine bottles just to see people’s reactions. It worked. Prestige Wine Group wanted his art and name attached to their wine imported from California, Italy, New Zealand, and Argentina. They created a special edition wine collection sold in various supermarkets across the United States that display Salvatore’s Heart Collection on the labels, making the bottles themselves works of art. It has been an impressive artistic evolution for someone who initially struggled to make a start in New York City. Nightclub life eventually took its toll on Salvatore, and he longed for a change to something more fulfilling. He wanted to contribute positively to the world, and to do this, he felt he had to reinvent himself. “I had this overwhelming need to create,” he described, “to escape this party life that was bringing me down.” One sleepless night, Salvatore decided it was the time to make a change. “I lay in a very still place and asked for help and guidance. Whatever it is I choose, I want to love it. I want to be an artist,” he recounted. In that moment, Salvatore felt some anxiety because he didn’t know what kind of artist he wanted to be. He remembered, “A voice inside told me to relax; it will come. Everything in front of your eyes that you can see is material you can create with, there is


Left: Heartworks candles, notebooks; right: Heartworks art display; below: Salvatore Principe Artist’s Reserve Wine

no limitation. I opened an imaginary box in my mind, using anything I could see to create. That was thirty years ago, since then I have been creating nonstop.” Salvatore took to the city streets in New York for inspiration and raw materials, collecting items from the trash and transforming them into artistic sculptures. Using paints and glosses, he turned cardboard into abstract metallic-like sculptures that reflected the grit of the city fused with its cosmopolitan beauty. This creative recycling led him on the path to artistic success. New York’s streets and buses became his mobile gallery. He took large and bulky sculptures on the bus with him that caused people to take notice and interest. “I’d have a six foot sculpture next to me on the bus and people would talk to me. I’d talk back to them as if I was delivering it somewhere. I would look for office buildings and various places where I thought I could display my art,” he related. This clever form of subtle self-promotion led him to Bergdorf Goodman, Manhattan’s most prominent department store, to present a proposal to dress their windows. He won a three week contract, which propelled his career to other department stores and led to exhibits with shops such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Tiffany Jewellers. “You have to make your own trail if your art can’t be in a great gallery to sell. You need to know how to sell it. Learning a little bit about business enabled me to be more enterprising,” he observed. Salvatore’s self-made trail led to his aunt’s in South Florida, a place to reflect after his mother’s death in the early nineties. “I saw there was an opportunity to do what I do in more space,” Salvadore rePHABRIKmagazine.com  27


Top: Salvatore’s fashion designs, Right: Heart Collection retail window display

called, “It was easier and cheaper there. The recession was at its height in New York, I had just lost my mom, what was I going to do?”

the artist’s studio existed in the industrial area of town, nestled between Boca Raton and Delray. However, Salvatore prefers it that way.

Trading the harsh winters of New York for Florida sunshine, Salvatore fulfilled his lifelong dream and opened his own gallery, the Heart of Delray, in the trendy beach town south of West Palm Beach. Not only an art gallery, the Heart of Delray was also his studio and later, a local hangout for the creative and artsy crowd that lived there.

As an established artist with a revered, celebrity clientele, his work is sold by reputation and word of mouth. His art is exhibited in window displays of renowned department stores across Florida, such as Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Bloomingdales.

“I created a gallery that brought people together. I would lure people in with music, food and wine, giving them an experience of the artist first hand,” Salvatore described. Unlike the quiet, stuffy galleries in big cities, his was an open, welcoming venue for people to browse, drink wine, socialize, and, most uniquely, meet the artist himself and watch him at work. The Heart of Delray contributed to the launch of the creative arts district in Delray with its progressive approach. After nine years, Salvatore moved his gallery to the Pineapple District, where his Signature Hearts Collection became a symbol of the town. He continued there for three years before moving closer to Boca Raton. Today, his studio is far more understated. Off the beaten path with no large signage out front, it would be difficult to surmise that 28  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015

Further, Salvatore has merged fashion with art to create his own clothing line, Heartfelt. Using models as his canvas, it is creative venture in which his art is printed directly onto clothing, resulting in chic, wearable and fashionable pieces. A collaboration with Katherine Kin of Marc Jacobs, the Heartfelt clothing line is a colourful mix of eighties funk and retro pieces such as strapless dresses, crop tops and miniskirts. Salvatore’s next step is uncertain, but flooded with potential collaborations and endless visionary ideas. He has his eyes on textile designs next. He mused, “I see a furniture line, more fashion, candles, perfume, stationary, bedding, home —the options are endless to combine with my art.” As an artist who is never static and an opportunist who has a constant desire to keep reinventing himself, Salvatore’s not likely to stay still for long. But wherever his path leads next, hearts are sure to follow.


PHABRIKmagazine.com  29


n i k c e h C Fri 4:27 Photography Photography assistant Photography Hair Stylists Makeup Stylists Models

Location 30  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015

Ernest of Studio E Photography Ian MacDonald Semi Ohtomatic Kelly Bula Christa Lynn Laska James Kershaw Sandra Sing Fernandes Jon Harmon Lauren, Betina, Trista, Mark, Elijah courtesy of PHABRIK artist + model management Paul and Randy Renaissance Edmonton Airport Hotel

Photography: studio.e.info@gmail.com

pm


WON HUNDRED wool coat coupboutique.com LA MAISON SIMONS gloves simons.ca STUART WEITZMAN otk boot stuartweitzman.com courtesy of Blu’s Womenswear MARIE SAINT PIERRE leggings blus.com

SAND shirt ZANEROBE sweater TIGER OF SWEDEN blazer NEUW DENIM jeans derks.com PHABRIKmagazine.com  31


Photography (all): studio.e.info@gmail.com

MONCLER ski jacket UNIQUE purse simons.ca MARIE SAINT PIERRE dress and leggings blus.com GOSSA boot aldoshoes.com 32  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015


MICHAEL KORS coat MARIE SAINT PIERRE jacket and pant suit blus.com RYDER sachel coupboutique.com ALDO boots aldoshoes.com

DSQUARED2 shirt and jacket COSTUME NATIONAL leather pant simons.ca PHABRIKmagazine.com  33


Photography (all): studio.e.info@gmail.com

34  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015


by LobFri 5:35

pm

LOT 78 leather biker jacket REINHARD PLANK wool hat coupboutique.com

PHABRIKmagazine.com  35


y d a e R t Even

TRUZZI shirt TOMBOLINI blazer ZANEROBE pant derks.ca

STENSTROMS shirt DION bowtie TIGER OF SWEDEN blazer J. LINDBERG jacket NEUW DENIM jeans derks.ca

Photography (all): Semi Ohtomatic

Fri 8:47 pm


MARIE SAINT PIERRE neoprene and chiffon dress blus.com ALDO shoes aldo.com

PAVRESH JAI gown pavreshandjai.com

PHABRIKmagazine.com  37


DENIS GAGNON leather and fur vest FAITH CONNEXION dress simons.ca ALDO shoes aldoshoes.com 38  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015

Photography (left): Semi Ohtomatic  Photography (right): studio.e.info@gmail.comcom

Fri 9:22pm


o G s ’ t e L Fri 9:41

pm

DRIES VAN NOTEN jacket MONCLER turtleneck WOO YUNG MI pants simons.ca


MONCLER GAMME BLEU sweater simons.ca

Photography: Semi Ohtomatic

LA MAISON SIMONS dress simons.ca 40  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015


In All Fri 11:07

pm MARIE SAINT PIERRE dress blus.ca

SAND shirt ZANEROBE sweater TIGER OF SWEDEN suit derks.ca PURPLE TIGER jacket

TRUZZI shirt TOMBOLINI blazer derks.ca

TRUZZI shirt DION bow tie derks.ca

PHABRIKmagazine.com  41


Y T R A P R E T F A MONCLER sweater simons.ca 42  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015

PYA t-shirt derks.ca

Photography: Semi Ohtomatic

SAT 1:20am


TIGER OF SWEDEN jacket derks.ca

REINHARD PLANK hat coupboutique.com MOSCHINO sweater VERSACE pants simons.ca

DIESEL tank DIESEL BLACK GOLD pants highgradeonline.com PHABRIKmagazine.com  43


APIECE APART poncho and sweater LOT 78 pants coupboutique.com ALDO buckle boot aldoshoes.com

TIGER OF SWEDEN jacket and sweater VITO shirt ZANEROBE pant SAND scarf derks.ca

Photography: Semi Ohtomatic

SAT 1:45AM


. . . d e u n i t n To Be Co SAT 2:06AM

DIESEL tank DIESEL BLACK GOLD wax jeans highgradeclothingonline.com

MONCLER sweater simons.ca DIESEL jeans highgradeclothingonline.com

SAND hat and shirt G-STAR jacket NEUW DENIM jeans DANIEL WELLINGTON watch TED BAKER shoes derks.ca


Men’s

Trends

The Fall 2014/Winter 2015 season brings some fall and winter mainstays along with some surprising twists, including a new it-bag just for the dudes. —Janis Galloway

Marc my Marc Jacobs Comme des Garcons

Band of outsiders

Black and White A combo we never get sick of. Alexander Wang is a master at playing with these two colours in contrasting blocks, trim details and layers. We love this versatile trend that lets us play up what’s already in our wardrobes. Alexander Wang

Christopher Raeburn

Boxy Bags Men’s bags just got supersized thanks to the mega influence of labels like Louis Vuitton, Versace and Balenciaga. They traded in spring’s soft clutches for masculine tailored luggage in oversized proportions. Versace PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015 46

Louis Vuitton

Gleves and Hawkes


Topman Design Dsquared

Orange is the New Black Even we were surprised to see sprinkles of orange in menswear collections for fall! The colour varies in shades from light pumpkin to fiery red-orange. We’ve especially fallen for Topman Design’s outrageously orange outerwear. Hardy Amies Christopher Shannon

Y3

Marc by Marc Jacobs

J Crew

Roll Call The varsity feel of bomber jackets is perfectly on point for back to school season. Marc by Marc Jacobs made its version extra sporty with over-the-top lettering and patterns reminscient of Indy 500 attire, while Hermes went streamlined with an all-black, leather sleeve version.

e,

PHABRIKmagazine.com  47

Hermes


Men’s

Grooming

Whiskers

Photography + Digital Art: C Side Photography Models: Mark W. and Randy C. at PHABRIK artist + model management Grooming: James Kershaw 48  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015


a go go F

acial hair trends tend to come and go in cycles much like fashion trends, just at a slower pace. Throughout the 19th century, most males sported some form of facial hair, be it sideburns, goatees, moustaches or beards. In the last century, decades seemed to each have their own facial hair trend. Pencil thin moustaches in the twenties and the return of Mutton chop side burns à la Elvis in the fifties combined with goatees in the sixties and full, bushy porn star ’staches in the seventies. The eighties, for the most part, was generally a clean shaven decade, but as we entered the nineties, facial hair again resurfaced as hip urban dwellers began sporting ‘soul patches’ and goatees. As the 21st century dawned, hipsters in large cities such as New York began to grow full

beards and moustaches, some even reverting back to the waxed handle bar ’stache of yore. The trend is now global and young males everywhere are embracing the whiskered face. Some of the planet’s top menswear fashion houses are showing their newest looks on the catwalk and in print on full bearded and mustachioed models. Arguably, beards and other facial hair styles tend to make those able to grow them appear more masculine and powerful. Whether that is true or not, keeping the growth clean, conditioned and groomed is of utmost importance—and of course there is a wide array of products available to do just that. Here are some of the best the industry has to offer. —James Kershaw

Top to bottom: CAPT. FAWCETT’S Beard Oil, UNCLE NORMAN’S Moustache Tamer, BLUEBEARDS ORIGINAL Beard Wash, Original Beard Saver Control + Conditioning Lotion

CROWN S H AV I N G CO. Tried & True Beard Balm (For Vagabonds, Gentlemen & Ruffians), CAPT. FAWCETT'S Moustache Wax (The Gentlemen's Stiffener), KENT Hand Made moustache/beard comb

PHABRIKmagazine.com  49


Makeup Stylists Models

Location

50  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015

Ernest of Studio E Photography Ian MacDonald Semi Ohtomatic Kelly Bula Christa Lynn Laska James Kershaw Sandra Sing Fernandes Jon Harmon Lauren, Betina, Trista, Mark, Elijah courtesy of PHABRIK artist + model management Paul and Randy Renaissance Edmonton Airport Hotel

Photography: studio.e.info@gmail.com

Photography Photography assistant Photography Hair Stylists


k l a T l Gir sat 10:18

Am

lingerie simons.ca

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s s e n i s u AllSATB3:16

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER coat simons.ca MARIE SAINT PIERRE leggings blus.com VALKYRIE boots aldoshoes.com 52  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015

Photography (all): studio.e.info@gmail.com

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k c a B ’ n i Kick SAT 6:00 pm

SCOTCH AND SODA shirt derks.ca DIESEL BLACK GOLD waxed jeans highgradeclothingonline.com PHABRIKmagazine.com  53


w e r C h t Pix wiSAT 6:51

SCOTCH AND SODA plaid shirt derks.ca pants at highgradeclothingonline.com 54  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015

DSQUARED2 jeans JILL SANDERS turtleneck simons.ca

NEUW DENIM shirt derks.ca DIESEL BLACK GOLD waxed jeans highgradeclothingonline.com

Photography (all): studio.e.info@gmail.com

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SAT 7:30pm

SAT 7:08pm

DIESEL t-shirt and pant highgradeclothingonline.com

LUXX READY TO WEAR dress and vest luxxreadytowear.com PHABRIKmagazine.com  55


t u O k c CheSat 8:04

COSTUME NATIONAL shirt and jacket COMME DES GARCONS coat DSQUARED2 pant simons.ca

DENHAM vest and cardigan ZANEROBE pant Y3 jacket and pant highgradeclothingonline.com highgradeclothingonline.com LA MAISONS SIMONS hat simons.ca gloves and scarf simons.ca

Photography: studio.e.info@gmail.com

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MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA shag coat COSTUME NATIONAL shirt JUST CAVALLI pant simons.ca

REINHARD PLANK dennis wool hat LOT 78 jacket RAFAEL ALLEGRA top FRAME pant coupboutique.com


58  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015

Photography: studio.e.info@gmail.com

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2 e r e w e r e th SUN 11:09

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hat and slip simons.ca

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Beauty

CALVIN KLEIN REVEAL Eau de Parfum A Solar Oriental Fragrance top notes: Raw Salt Signature, Pink, Black, White Pepper heart notes: Orris, Ambergris base notes: Sandalwood, Cashmeran, Vetiver

VIVA LA JUICY GOLD COUTURE Eau de Parfum top notes: Wild Berries heart notes: Sambac Jasmine, Honeysuckle, base notes: Sandalwood, Golden Amber, Caramel, Vanilla

60  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015

REPETTO PARIS Eau de Toilette top notes: Pear, Cherry Blossom heart notes: Rose Water, Orange Blossom Base notes: Vanilla, Amber Wood

PRADA CANDY FLORALE Eau de Toilette Floral Fragrance top notes: Limoncello Sorbet Accord middle notes: Peony base notes: Musk, Caramel, Honey

MY BURBERRY Eau de Parfum top notes: Sweet Pea, Bergamot heart notes: Geranium, Golden Quince, Freesia base notes: Rain Tipped Damask, Centifolia Rose, Patchouli

LADY MILLION EAU MY GOLD! Eau de Toilette MARC JACOBS top notes: DAISY DREAM Mango, Neroli, Eau de Toilette Mandarin top notes: heart notes: VioBlackberry, let Leaf, Orange Grapefruit, Pear Blossom heart notes: Jas- base notes: mine, Lychee, Musk, Amber, Blue Wisteria Cedar base notes: White Woods, Musk, Coconut Water


E

very season, fragrance houses around the globe launch new scents or new versions of established ones to entice the consumer. This year is no different, here are some of this season’s best. The house of Marc Jacobs launches yet another version of the best-selling Daisy fragrance, Marc Jacobs Daisy Dream. The new fruity floral is presented in a silver capped daisy embellished clear glass flacon that reveals the scents sky blue hue.

VERA WANG FOREVER VERA eau de Parfum A Woody Floral Fragrance top notes: White Peach, Coconut Water heart notes: Orris, Blooming Lilac, Rum base notes: Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Skin Musk

BOUCHERON PLACE VENDOME ELIXIR Eau de Parfum (Limited Edition) top notes: Pear, Italian Mandarin, Pink Peppercorn heart notes: Bulgarian Rose, Orange Blossom, Sambac Jasmine base notes: Rosewood, Vanilla Wood, Crystalline Musk

Calvin Klein, famous, or maybe infamous, for provocative ad campaigns, has an innovative approach to fragrance development for his various scents. This season, he debuts Reveal, a solar oriental scent. For the first time ever in a fragrance, it opens with a raw salt signature which is said to ‘’capture traces of the erotic scent of skin’’—very appropriate as the sexy print campaign features supermodel Doutzen Kroes along with British actor Charlie Hunnam. Prada, also a house known for innovation in fashion and fragrance, debuts Prada Candy Florale. This is the third scent in the Candy series, scents all created by perfumer Daniela Andrier. The fragrance is described by the house as an exciting floral scent with a romantic, powdery composition, full of life and sensuality inspired by an imaginary flower that smells like candy, or a bouquet of flowers on a countertop in an Italian ice cream parlour. The world renowned jewelry house, Boucheron, celebrates its first anniversary of the launch of its highly successful woody, floral Place Vendome Eau de Parfum with a limited edition version. The new version was created by introducing new notes such as Italian Mandarin and Bulgarian Rose to the original composition. The fragrance is presented in a heavy, black cabochon topped, textured metallic gold bottle inspired by the cobblestones of Place Vendome in Paris. Designer Vera Wang, known mainly for her iconic bridal gowns and seasonal fashion collections, launches a new scent, Forever Vera. Created by perfumer Honorine Blanc, the flo-

ral, woody musk scent is presented in a delicately hammered glass bottle with an elegant rope detail inspired by the designer’s Wedgewood collection. Another scent created by Honorine Blanc, this time for Juicy Couture, is the newest version of Viva La Juicy, which launched in 2008. The new scent is called Gold Couture Eau de Parfum and is described as a glamorous and decadent version of the original. Gold Couture is housed in a reflective gold bottle with a clear stopper adorned with a bow of point d’esprit lace. The house of Paco Rabanne adds to their selection of fragrance this fall with the introduction of Lady Million Eau My Gold! Created by Anne Flipo, the new Eau de Toilette is housed in a gold capped elongated glass version of the original bottle. Olivier Polge was asked to create a fragrance for the house of Repetto, opening a new chapter in its history. The house, an icon of French heritage, was founded by Rose Repetto in 1947. Her first client was her son, dancer and choreographer Roland Petit. Since then, the house has provided ballet shoes to such luminaries as Rudolph Nureyev and Mikhail Baryshnikov. The elegant bottle that houses the scent bears an identical ribbon to the one used on the famous Carlotta ballerina; it is wrapped, knotted at the neck, sealed with the brand’s iconic lower case “r”, and weighted with a drop pendant. The fashion house Burberry, known for its instantly recognizable plaid and the invention of the modern trench coat, introduces what it describes as the most significant fragrance launch for women to date. The scent, created by Christopher Bailey, Burberry’s Chief Creative and Chief Executive Officer, in collaboration with Francis Kurkdjian is said to capture the fragrance of a London garden after the rain. My Burberry takes its name from the rather affectionate way people refer to their Burberry trench. Its glass bottle and overall design reflect the details of the iconic garment. The horn finish cap echoes the distinctive buttons, while the hand tied knot of English woven gabardine honours the fabric invented by Thomas Burberry more than a century ago.

Photography + Digital Art: C Side Photography Articles + Art Direction: James Kershaw PHABRIKmagazine.com  61


PACO RABANNE INVICTUS top notes: Grapefruit, Marine Accord, Mandarin NAUTICA LIFE middle notes: Bay Leaf, top notes: Living Sea Salt, Jasmine Ginger base notes: Oak moss, middle notes: Provence Patchouli, Ambergris Lavender, Sage, Violet Leaf

T

THIERRY MUGLER A*MEN PURE WOOD (LIMITED EDITION) Woody Oriental Scent top notes: Cedar, Cypress middle notes/base notes: Patchouli, Coffee, Vanilla

hierry Mugler is one of the fashion world’s most dynamic individuals and the fragrances that bear his name certainly reflect this. Mugler was one of the first to incorporate gourmand elements in his scents. The original A*Men fragrance which debuted in 1996 contrasted notes of coffee and vanilla with patchouli. In the years since, the house has launched new limited edition variations of the original scent. In 2009, the house debuted A*Men Pure Malt. It was the first to combine the art of a haute perfumery with that of a master distiller. Inspired by whiskey production methods, Mugler allows the fragrance to develop for six weeks inside “toasted” oak casks. This original, innovative aging process in the world of fragrance is now patented by the brand. This fall, the scent becomes a permanent part of the collection. A*Men Pure Wood is the limited edition version for 2014. The fragrance is overdosed with notes of cedar and cypress that meld with into the original A*Men fragrance notes. All Thi-

62  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015

THIERRY MUGLER A*MEN PURE MALT Rich Woody Oriental top notes mint, lavender middle notes: Patchouli, Atlas Cedar base notes: Tonka, Coffee, Stirax The scent of the original A*Men tinged with fruity, peat - like tones, subtle pure malt

erry Mugler fragrances were created by master perfumer Jacques Huclier for Givaudan. Nautica is a fashion company started by David Chu in 1984, the company’s first scent debuted in 1992. This fall the firm launches Nautica Life, which is an aromatic aquatic scent. All of the scents exude a nautical feel in scent and presentation. Nautica Life’s clear glass cylinder allows the watery blue of the scent to show and also allows the novel detail of having what appears to be boat rope camouflaging the spray. Invictus, which in Latin means invincible, is the name for Paco Rabanne’s newest scent in their fragrance range. The trophy shaped bottle houses the scent which opens with a fresh marine accord, a complete opposite of their last offering, 1 Million Intense which is a spicy, woody, oriental scent.



Splash! Photography: Harry Fellows Swimwear Designer: Natalya Toporova Hair: Steven Mark Hugo Makeup: Paola Orlando Model: Joann P. at Elite Miami 64  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015


YVES SAINT LAURENT head wrap PHABRIKmagazine.com  65


HELEN KAMINSKI visor KENDRA SCOTT earrings 66  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015


PHABRIKmagazine.com  67


68  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015


SPEEDO swim cap

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VINCE CAMUTO bangle SPEEDO swim goggles 70  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015


PHABRIKmagazine.com  71


Beauty

s t r o p p u S h A rc Brows are considered by many to be one of the face’s most important features. They can certainly make or break a “look”. Achieving the desired shape, colour and width of the brow has never been easier. Cosmetic houses have stepped up with new products from pencils to powders, incorporating the necessary tools/applicators for grooming.

Here are some of this season’s best. —James Kershaw

Fall 2014/Winter 2015 2015 72  PHABRIK Fall/Winter


Top to bottom: ELIZABETH ARDEN Beautiful Colour Natural Eye Brow Pencil #02 Natural Beige, #03 Brownette, CLARINS Kit Sourcils “Pro” Perfect Eyes + Brow Palette, LISE WATIER Double Definition Automatic Brow Liner in Brun Universel, LISE WATIER Eyebrow Essentials Compact in Blondes (two shades with tweezers and sponge/brush applicator)

hy C Side Photograp : rt A al it ig D + y Photograph haw ction: James Kers e ir D rt A + p u e odel management m Mak + st ti ar IK R B . at PHA Model: Lauren B PHABRIKmagazine.com  73


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Beauty

SKIN SAVERS

Photogr a phy & Digital Art: C s ide Photogr a phY   Art Direction: James Kershaw

Fall 2014/Winter 2015 2015 76  PHABRIK Fall/Winter


A good skin care regimen may be your avenue to the fountain of youth. Meet some of this season’s newest and best from the industry’s beauty wizards. Left to right: CLARINS Shaping Facial Lift Total V Contouring Serum, FRESH Crème Ancienne Soft Cream, ELIZABETH ARDEN Flawless Future Powered by Ceramide trio: Moisture Cream Broad Spectrum SPF30, Caplet Serum, Eye Gel, PHILOSOPHY No Reason To Hide Multi-Imperfection Transforming Serum, CLINIQUE Smart Custom Repair Serum, LISE WATIER Duo Serum 24HRS Lift + Firm 3D, CLARINS Super Restorative Night Age Spot Correcting Replenishing Cream, CLINIQUE Sonic System Purifying Cleansing Brush

F

all 2014 is an exceptional season for new, innovative beauty products. A number of new specifically targeted serums and creams are being introduced . Many of these new items provide a range of benefits from lifting and firming (Lise Watier’s 24HRS Lift + Firm 3D) to dark spot correction (Clarins’ Super Restorative Night Cream, Clinique Smart Custom Repair, and Philosophy’s No Reason to Hide). Clarins’ Shaping Facial Lift Total V Contouring Serum helps to redefine the ideal 3V contour: a slimmer face, refined cheeks and a lifted, firmer jawline—this product is especially popular with Asian women but may be used by any and all ethnicities. Elizabeth Arden’s new Flawless Future products use ceramide technology along with a protective protein complex and skin brighteners to intercept the first signs of aging. Crème Ancienne from Fresh looks back to the first cold cream known to man for this 21st century formula. Soft Cream provides twenty-four hour moisture in a rich, yet weightless formula ideal for all skin types. Each jar of cream contains such fragile ingredients that each must poured in a specific sequence at a determined temperature by hand. The cream launches exclusively at Sephora in October. Of course, all of these products will work their best on a thoroughly cleansed skin. Clinique’s new Sonic System purifying cleansing brush removes impurities for clear healthy looking skin, and is more effective than hand washing, making the skin is better prepared to receive treatment. —James Kershaw

PHABRIKmagazine.com  77


Architecture

78  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015


Dubai to Build World’s Largest Shopping Mall

T

he Vice-President and Prime Minister of the United Arab Emirates, Sheikh Mohammed Bin Rashid, has announced that the world’s largest shopping centre will be built in Dubai. Entitled “Mall of the World,” the 4.45 million square meter project will comprise seven-kilometer promenades hosting a temperature-controlled indoor theme park that is covered by a retractable glass dome which opens in the winter. There is also a 280,000 square meter wellness center, a cultural celebration district for conferences and weddings facilities, and hotels with twenty thousand rooms to accommodate the 180 million expected visitors each year. —João Paulo Nunes

PHABRIKmagazine.com  79


Architecture

Departments Of Law And Central Administration Vienna University by CRAB studio

Danish Maritime Museum by BIG – Bjarke Ingels Group

80  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015

Images courtesy of the RIBA

Library and Learning Centre, Vienna University of Economics and Business, by Zaha Hadid Architects


Mary Rose Museum by Wilkinson Eyre Architects

Best New Buildings in the United Kingdom & Europe Announced

T

he Royal Institute of British Architects (RIBA) has announced the winning buildings of the 2014 RIBA National and Europe Awards. Judged for their architectural excellence, the completed projects (forty-four in the United Kingdom and twelve elsewhere in the European Union) will form the shortlist of the RIBA Stirling Prize for the best building of the year, which will be announced on 16 October.

The list of award-winning projects includes familiar buildings such as the Shard by Renzo Piano, the London Aquatics Centre by Zaha Hadid Architects, the Library of Birmingham by Mecanoo, the Manchester School of Art by Feilden Clegg Bradley Studios, the new Mary Rose Museum in Portsmouth by Wilkinson Eyre Architects, the Everyman Theatre in Liverpool by Haworth Tompkins, the London School of Economics’ Saw Swee Hock Student Centre by O’Donnell + Tuomey Architects, the Nuovo Centro Civico in Scandicci (Italy) by Rogers Stirk Harbour + Partners, the Danish Maritime Museum in Helsingør (Denmark) by BIG – Bjarke Ingels Group, and the redevelopment of King’s Cross Station by John McAslan and Partners. —João Paulo Nunes

Marseille Vieux Port by Foster + Partners

PHABRIKmagazine.com  81


The Blue Planet by 3XN Architects

Everyman Theatre by Haworth Tompkins

King’s Cross Station Redevelopment by John McAslan + Partners


Library of Birmingham by Mecanoo

London Library by Haworth Tompkins


CITY NIGHTS

a sophisticated collection of rich autumn color Things always get more sophisticated in the fall, richer clothes, richer makeup and the events that go with them. Dinners in that new restaurant, a trip to see a Broadway play, maybe even an art opening (Picasso anyone?). This is why we called our new collection City Nights, a collection that speaks to the sophisticate in all of us – and is just perfect for a night on the town!

collection includes: Celebrate Eye Shadow Trio, Purple Jelly JarTM Gel Eyeliner, Green Jelly JarTM Gel Eyeliner, Katerina PureMoist ® Lipstick, Kir Royale PureGlossTM Lip Gloss

Find a location to buy jane iredale products at www.stogryn.ca

84  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015


Artist

Profile

Vincent Moutault

Stylist: Vincent Moutault

Hair Assistants: C ​ hantal Girard, Sara Murphy, Jami Cuglietta, Julian Scott, Ray Nann​inga​ and Emma Spense Photography: Ernest of Studio E Photography Clothing provided by: LUXX ready to wear Makeup: James Kershaw Models: Brittany W., Lauren B., Amanda, Grace, PHABRIK artist + model management PHABRIKmagazine.com  85


Vincent Moutault



Vincent M F

inding the courage to follow a passion can be difficult when you lack the support of the people around you, but Vincent Moutault is an incredible example of the magic that can happen when everything falls into place.

Growing up, he was drawn to the artistry of hair and knew that he wanted to pursue a career in hair styling. His family, however, wanted him to be an engineer and he struggled with not being able to tell his father that he wanted to do hair, a career that his family didn’t consider acceptable. Knowing that he would eventually have to make a decision about what he wanted to do about his future, he began competing in triathlons, focusing on building his mind, body, and spirit. Sadly, it wasn’t as simple as that—a sudden accident left him in a coma for an extended period of time. Thankfully, he made a full recovery. After waking up from the coma, he knew he had to pursue his passion for hair. Moutault fell in love with the beauty and expressiveness of hair, its ability to speak about people, as well as the way the right cut could change someone’s life. Reflecting on this, he built his salon in Dijon, France, named La Loge 220. The salon has a unique feature: the absence of mirrors. Rather than relying on feedback during the cutting process, he spends time building a relationship with each client, earning their trust and cutting their hair freely, showing them only the finished look. This unconventional approach was very successful, and the number of confident and empowered clients grew, to a point where people began to travel to see him.

In 2007, he was introduced to Davines, a company that reflected his values: a love of artistry and creativity, an emphasis on constant learning and growth, and a passion for natural beauty. A constant learner, Moutault became an educator for Davines, first in France and then internationally. His genuine enthusiasm for sharing knowledge shines through as he is fun, outgoing, caring, and truly approachable. Moutault is constantly working on his English in order to better communicate his ideas with non-francophone students, and his eagerness to share and learn in a fun environment makes him an unforgettable teacher. His artistry is evident as he moves freely and organically to create beautiful hairstyles, something the fashion industry has recognized this as well. His work has been featured internationally in fashion and hair editorials, including Doleres Magazine, Art Actuel, Estetica, and most recently, Bambi Magazine. With an incredible curriculum vitae, Moutault has combined his incredible talent with a passion for constant growth. He likens this to running a marathon, focusing on the journey and process instead of the end goal. Moutault’s attitude of constantly working hard and pushing further to reach his goals, one mountain at a time, has brought him to where he is today. —Danielle Fuechtmann

a love of artistry and creativity, an emphasis on constant  88  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015


Moutault learning and growth, and a passion for natural beauty PHABRIKmagazine.com  89



Vincent Moutault


Art

92  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015


An Invitation into the Fashion + Graphic Design of Jean Paul Gaultier I

n the intimate spaces of the Fashion Space Gallery, a short walk away from Oxford Circus in central London, the exhibition ‘Jean Paul Gaultier: Be My Guest’ is on display. This exhibit is the first presentation to ever feature the French couturier’s graphic design work. Considerably smaller in scale than ‘The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the sidewalk to the catwalk’ being shown a few miles east at the much larger Barbican Art Gallery, this compact exhibition features approximately sixty examples of printed invitations to runway shows and parties, as well as advertising images conceived by Gaultier himself. It is a rare opportunity to have a glimpse into the creative mind of one of the most famous and prolific fashion designers in history. Items on display include a crudely designed invitation to the presentation of his first women’s ready-to-wear collection for Spring/ Summer 1977, graphics produced in the late eighties influenced by Russian Constructivism and Dadaism, photographs used in the advertising campaign for his women’s and men’s collections for Spring/Summer 1989, and promotional imagery for his iconic ‘Tribute to Frida Kahlo’ collection for Spring/Summer 1998. —João Paulo Nunes

PHABRIKmagazine.com  93




Shopping

Guide

FASHION EDITORIALS Pages 11-14 SWEATER WEATHER CAPEZIO capezio.com COLETTE MORDO KENSIEGIRL kenzie.com OUT FROM UNDER FOREVER21 forever21.com LE TIGRE letigreshirt.com I HEART RONSON iheartronson.com Pages 64-71 SPLASH NATALYA TOPOROVA natalyatoporova.com SPEEDO speedo.com YVES SAINT LAURENT ysl.com HELEN KAMINSKI helenkamininski.com KENDRA SCOTT kendrascott.com VINCE CAMUTO vincecamuto.com Pages 30-45 LAYOVER: prologue Pages 50-59 LAYOVER: epilogue SAND VAN GILS G-STAR NEUW DENIM TED BAKER DANIEL WELLINGTON TIGER OF SWEDEN ZANEROBE VITO TRUZZI TOMBOLINI STENSTROMS DION J.LINDEBERG Above available at DERKS derksmenswear.com JEAN PAUL GAULTIER MOSCHINO VERSACE MONCLER WOO YUNG MI DRIES VAN NOTEN COSTUME NATIONAL COMME DES GARCONS DSQUARED2 LE31

96  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015

PHABRIK BEAUTY MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA UNIQUE JILL SANDERS MIA DENIS GAGNON FAITH CONNEXION Above available at LA MAISON SIMONS simon.ca APIECE APART LOT 78 WON HUNDRED RAFAEL ALLEGRA FRAME REINHARD PLANK Above available at COUP coupboutique.com DENHAM DIESEL Y3 DIESEL BLACK GOLD Above available at HIGH GRADE highgradeclothingonline.com MARIE SAINT PIERRE STUART WEITZMAN CHIE MIHARA ANNETTE GORTZ RYDER Above available at BLU’S womenswearblus.com VALKYRIE GOSSA ALDO Above available at ALDO aldoshoes.com LUXX ready to wear Above available at luxxreadytowear.com PARVESH JAI Above available at parveshandjai.com SKELETOR Above available at Facebook - Skeletor designs

Pages 15-21 A BEAUTIFUL SEASON CLARINS: Hudson’s Bay, Shoppers Beauty Boutiques, select London Drugs, Sears, Nordstrom ELISABETH ARDEN: Hudson’s Bay, select Shoppers Beauty Boutiques, London Drugs LISE WATIER: London Drugs, Shoppers Drug Mart/ Beauty Boutiques, select Hudson’s Bay, CLINIQUE at Hudson’s Bay, Sears, Holt Renfrew, select Shopper’s Beauty Boutiques, Nordstrom, Murale, Sephora FRESH: Sephora JANE IREDALE: spas nationwide, www.stogryn.ca, www.janeiredale.com Pages 48-49 WHISKERS A GO GO All available at Barber Ha 10011 - 82 Ave. Edmonton, AB For further information: www.barberha.com, www.bluebeardsoriginal.com, www.captainfawcetts.com Pages 60-61 WOMEN’S FRAGRANCE CALVIN KLEIN: Reveal at Sephora, Hudson’s Bay, Sears, Shopper’s Drug Mart, London Drugs, Jean Coutu, Murale JUICY COUTURE: Sears, Shoppers Drug Mart, Hudson’s Bay REPETTO: exclusively at Sephora, www.sephora.com BURBERRY: My Burberry at Hudson’s Bay, Holt Renfrew, Nordstrom, Sephora, Shopper’s Drug Mart, Murale, Ogilvy, Jean Coutu MARC JACOBS: Sephora, Hudson’s Bay, Sears, Shopper’s Drug Mart, Ogilvy PACO RABANNE: Eau My Gold! at Sears, Hudson’s Bay, Sephora, Shoppers Drug Mart BOUCHERON PLACE VENDOME: Elixir exclusively at Hudson’s Bay VERA WANG: Shopper’s Drug Mart, London Drugs, Jean Coutu


Page 62 MEN’S FRAGRANCE THIERRY MUGLER: Limited Editions exclusively at Hudson’s Bay (October) PACO RABANNE: Sears, Hudson’s Bay, Shopper’s Drug Mart NAUTICA: Hudson’s Bay, Sears, Shopper’s Drug Mart Pages 72-73 ARCH SUPPORTS CLARINS: Hudson’s Bay, Shoppers Drug Mart Beauty Boutiques, select London Drugs, Sears, Nordstrom, Murale ELIZABETH ARDEN: Hudson’s Bay, Shopper’s Beauty Boutiques, London Drugs LISE WATIER: London Drugs, Shopper’s Drug Mart/Beauty Boutiques, select Hudson’s Bay Pages 76-77 SKIN SAVERS CLARINS: Hudson’s Bay, Shopper’s Drug Mart, London Drugs, Murale, Sephora ELIZABETH ARDEN: Hudson’s Bay, Shoppers Drug Mart, London Drugs LISE WATIER: London Drugs, Shoppers Drug Mart, select Hudson’s Bay, Jean Coutu CLINIQUE: Hudson’s Bay, Holt Renfrew, Shoppers Drug Mart, Sears, Sephora FRESH: Sephora PHILOSOPHY: Hudson’s Bay, select Shoppers Drug Mart locations, Sephora

PHABRIKmagazine.com  97


Department

98  PHABRIK Fall 2014/Winter 2015

Title


WCFW.CA


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