FAMILY DINING, CONTINUED FROM PG. 33
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SANDWICHES WRAPS SALADS SOUPS CATERING COFFEE 808 Penn P Avenue A - IIn Th The C Cultural lt l Di District ti t HOURS: HOURS 412-745-2233 WWW.CAFE808PGH.COM 7 AM to 2 PM Mon. - Fri.
Spicy chili was Texas-style — beanfree — presumably better for topping hot dogs. As a solo dish, Angelique missed the pintos, but Jason thought the undiluted flavor of beef and spices was just right, although it was on the mild side for something proclaimed “spicy.” It still would have enlivened the mac-and-cheese — available with chili or Buffalo chicken, though we ordered plain based on its billing as “Best.Mac. And.Cheese.Ever.” Its texture was impeccable, creamy and rich, but the flavor offered neither aged-cheese sharpness nor textural contrast from a bread-crumb or broiler-browned crust. By contrast, wings with hot sauce were plenty fiery. Curiously available as either whole wings or halves, the pieces were a bit small and, perhaps as a consequence, less than succulent, but not at all bad. Next time we might try Kelvo style, which combines wing dust and mild sauce for extra flavor. The extensive weenie menu contained some fresh ideas, like one with pepperoni, bacon, marinara, and Italian cheeses. A simpler bacon-cheese dog hit a lot of high points: The wiener itself was plump, juicy and unabashedly salty. The poppy-seed bun was fresh, the bacon was crisp with a bit of chew, and the cheddar sauce, while still not sharp enough for us, was creamy and just the right thickness to cling to the dog. The same cheddar sauce pulled double duty on a menu special of turkey Devonshire, a throwback to a dish invented in Pittsburgh in 1934. Substantial Texas toast was an appreciated upgrade from plain white bread, and Dad’s excellent bacon amped up the mild flavor of the turkey (and cheese). That other all-American meal-ona-bun, the burger, was decidedly not stadium-style. At a half-pound, the patty was juicy and tender, but with less charred flavor than we’d prefer. The Italian roll was up to the task of containing it; whether it could have handled the Yinzer Burger, topped with bacon and mac-and-cheese, we can only speculate. The side of fresh-cut fries were very nicely seasoned with herb-flecked Pub Rub. If they were a stage past perfectly golden, we found this preferable to the soggy side on which fries more usually err. Even though our meal wasn’t perfect, we left satisfied. Whether framed as a bar to which we can take the kids, or as a family restaurant where adults can indulge in a couple of rounds, Dad’s was a great place for our family to relax into the weekend. INF O @PGH C IT YPAPE R . C O M
34
PITTSBURGH CITY PAPER 11.22/11.29.2017
[PERSONAL CHEF]
VEGGIE TIKKA MASALA {BY LUKE CYPHER, OWNER OF BLUE SPARROW} I spent some time in India when I was a teenager. My food experience from that trip is one of several encounters that inspired my Blue Sparrow food truck. Our street-food menu pulls influences from around the world to create unique dishes, each with a story, that inspire customers to try the next thing on the list. Curry is a great example of a dish that has a story. So many people come to our truck thinking they don’t like curry. Unfortunately, they mostly think there is only one kind, but there are hundreds of curry styles, found from Africa to Thailand. Tikka masala originates in India, but became popular in Great Britain after it had established colonies in the region. These days, it’s considered a national dish in England. Tikka masala is usually made with cream and chicken, but I’ve swapped some ingredients to make this recipe vegan-friendly. We use this sauce in our tacos and rice bowls all summer, utilizing fresh tomatoes and other produce from our farm partners. But I also love it later in the year with good canned tomatoes. The fresh ginger and curry powder offer a warm spice that is super nice on a crisp day. INGREDIENTS • 2 tbsp. olive oil • 5 cloves garlic, sliced thin • 3 1-inch knobs ginger, minced • 1 white onion, sliced thin • 2 tbsp. yellow curry powder • 2 tsp. coriander • 2 oz. rice vinegar • 8 ripe tomatoes, diced (or two 28-oz. cans diced tomatoes) • 1 15-oz. can coconut milk • 3 Yukon Gold potatoes, medium dice • 1 eggplant, medium dice • Salt, pepper and sugar, to taste • 3 cups basmati rice, cooked INSTRUCTIONS Heat oil in a large pot. Add garlic and stir until golden brown. Add ginger and onion. Sauté until onions begin to caramelize, then stir in spices. Continue stirring until spices toast and become fragrant. Deglaze with vinegar. Add tomatoes and coconut milk, and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to maintain a simmer, then add potatoes and eggplant. Continue simmering until potatoes become tender, about 15-20 minutes. Season to taste. Serve over basmati rice. I N F O@ P G HC I T Y PA P E R. C OM
More about Blue Sparrow at www.bluesparrowpgh.com. WE WANT YOUR PERSONAL RECIPES AND THE STORIES BEHIND THEM. EMAIL THEM TO CELINE@PGHCITYPAPER.COM.