NYCvs.PHL by Hoi Ning Ngai nyc PHOTOS by matt powell phl PHOTOS by sky yoo
(is it worth a fight?)
Growing up in New York meant being exposed to one of the fastest-paced, most food-centric cities in the world at a young age. Now that I live in Philadelphia, I’ve been questioned more than a few times about whether it can live up to what New York has to offer. My retort is simple: Why should it? No matter how much New Yorkers or Philadelphians may position their food scenes in opposition to each other, the two cities are worlds apart in terms of pace and intensity. New York is a place of a million possibilities, but like a menu overrun with options, it can be overwhelming. It’s easy to verge on hyperventilation when considering how many choices there are for a meal, and once I finally decide, I often cringe from anxiety thinking about how many great dishes I might be missing. Philadelphia, on the other hand, is like a menu with just the right number of options—enough to provide variety, but not so many that I feel paralyzed by choice. Generally, Philly is exciting yet manageable, and boasts a strong sense of community throughout. Indeed, the vibe of the city’s food scene is decidedly different from that of New York’s, but the two share some key areas that are worthy of comparison. Ethnic Cuisine When immigrants first arrived in the United States, they often congregated in the same areas, creating ethnic neighborhoods permeated by each culture’s sights, sounds, smells and tastes. In New York, these communities continue to thrive, with strong Asian representation in each borough’s Chinatown, significant Greek pockets in Astoria, heavy Indian and Columbian populations in Jackson Heights, and countless more. As immigrants have continued to build and secure their food presence in New York, locals of all colors and creeds frequently flock to areas like Koreatown in Manhattan, Arthur Avenue in the Bronx, and Flushing in Queens for their ethnic food fixes. Because Philadelphia is smaller, its ethnic communities are also smaller. While this generally limits the number of individuals selling food, the quality is what ultimately matters. Fortunately, Philadelphia’s tremendous diversity provides consistently delicious ethnic flavors. Walking through the various neighborhoods, I am amazed by how immigrants from all over the world continue to see and utilize food as a form of cultural expression. Jamaican Jerk Hut (made famous by the movie In Her Shoes) offers perfectly fried coconut shrimp, plantains and other authentic Jamaican food in South Philadelphia. For Mexican food that is delicious and affordable, El Jarocho in Bella Vista consistently receives rave reviews for its burritos and tacos, particularly the carne asada, chorizo and al pastor. Moreover, Philadelphia’s smaller size inherently means that its ethnic communities are closer to one another. Italian pastry shop Isgro, for example, offers sweet pignoli cookies and heavenly cannoli just a few blocks over from Nam Phuong, which serves up unctuous, steaming bowls of pho. And for those of us who are more inclined to experiment in personal
26
penn appétit
kitchens, the Italian Market is literally steps away from the Oriental Supermarket, making cross-cultural ingredient gathering a snap. Farm to Table The food world is increasingly utilizing ingredients that are organic, local and sustainable. With more people focused on where their food is coming from, how it is grown and how it food is obtained, the degree to which farms and farmers markets have been increasingly recognized by professional chefs and home cooks alike is not surprising. One of my favorite spots in New York is the Union Square Greenmarket, which began with a handful of farmers in 1976 and has expanded to 140 regional farmers, fishermen and bakers during peak season. Moreover, chefs from some of the city’s best-known restaurants—like Blue Hill, Daniel, and WD50—craft their menus around meat and produce available at the market. With a wealth of farms outside the city and farmers markets inside the city, Philadelphia offers the same opportunity for food lovers to bring items straight from farm to table. Organizations like Philly Homegrown, the Food Trust and Farm to City work in partnership to make food from local farmers accessible to everyone around Philadelphia. Whether I am racing through the University Square Market on Wednesdays during lunch, or casually strolling around the Rittenhouse Square Market on Saturday mornings, I always make a beeline for the crisp apples from Beechwood Orchards. The Headhouse Market is a perfect stop on Sunday mornings, especially if I am looking for a wide selection of meats, cheeses and vegetables from vendors like Birchrun Hills Farm. Like their counterparts in New York, many chefs in Philadelphia are focused on helping diners make the connection between farm and table. Popular BYOB Pumpkin varies its menu daily in order to include local ingredients that change just as frequently. South Street staple Supper maintains a relationship with Blue Elephant Farm to grow produce exclusively for the restaurant—produce that is picked five days a week by the chef himself. These are just a couple of many restaurants that are making ever more conscious decisions about what to put on their tables. Fine Dining Despite my predilection for cheap eats, I must admit that I did appreciate getting my first grown-up job and paychecks, which ultimately allowed me to expose my palate to fine dining. New York is a destination for celebrities and celebrity chefs, and I have always found the food and star quality of dining experiences in the city to be second to none. I was thrilled to taste impossibly tender sweetbreads at Mario Batali’s Casa Mono, and to lunch pennappetit.com