wine journal Ju ly/ Aug ust 2 015
ABC F I N E W I N E & SPI R ITS W I N E MAGA ZI N E
What’s in a name? (It’s all in the label!)
Spectacular Sardinia, Home to Santa Maria La Palma Alghero, Sardinia, Italy
BRAAI-BQ,
the South African grill out
The ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Journal is a bimonthly publication of ABC Fine Wine & Spirits. Copyright 2015 ABC Liquors, Inc. All rights reserved. Not all products are available in all stores. If the product you’re looking for isn’t available, ask us to order it for you! Allie Smallwood Editor allies@abcfws.com Meghan Guarino Contributing Editor meghang@abcfws.com Brad Lewis Contributing Editor bradl@abcfws.com
OUR WINE EXPERTS: Jim Greeley Southwest Florida Wine Supervisor Shayne Hebert Central Florida Wine Supervisor Atanas Nechkov Central Florida Wine Supervisor Paul Quaglini Southeast Florida Wine Supervisor Bill Stobbs West Florida Wine Supervisor
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“That’s what makes wine so awesome is that it isn’t the same every year.” – Mark Grassi, winemaker
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SPECTACULAR SARDINIA
Paul discusses fresh wines from a summer hotspot.
CA’ MOMI… NAPA, ITALIAN STYLE
When Italy hits Napa, Shayne’s got something to say about it.
MICHEL ROLLAND TAKES ARGENTINA
Bordeaux’s influential winemaker grows in South America.
SUMMER THE SOUTH AFRICAN WAY
Grub on some Braai!
10 11 12 14 16
UMAMI The 5th flavor, sent straight from heaven.
SWEET SUMMER SIPS
Sweet whites belong poolside.
A NOBLE HOME FOR A NOBLE GRAPE
Schloss Reinhartshausen is sehr gut!
IT’S ALL IN THE LABEL
What’s in a (wine) name?
SERGE LALOUE SANCERRE CUL DE BEAUJEU
Broil, bake or grill seafood with this delectable white blend.
S PECTACUL AR
SARDINIA
PA U L Q U A G L I N I • @ A B C W I N E PA U L Q • PA U L Q @ A B C F W S . C O M
M
y job as a wine supervisor at ABC Fine Wine & Spirits has taken me to some amazing places over the years. It’s always an incredibly eye-opening experience to explore the origins of a wine and to witness the passion of the men and women involved in the winemaking process. This past April I was once again afforded one of those cherished opportunities. Upon the completion of four grueling days at the Vinitaly trade show in Verona, Brad Lewis and I set off to visit the Santa Maria La Palma winery on the island of Sardinia. Neither Brad nor I had ever been to Sardinia and our wonderful hosts were determined to astonish us. Santa Maria La Palma is located on the northwest coast of Sardinia, close to the historic walled-in port city of Alghero. On our first full day on the island we were given a tour of Alghero by Gianfranca Pirisi. Gianfranca is one of the board members of the winery and also happens to be a walking encyclopedia of Sardinian history and culture. As we strolled inside the labyrinth of narrow streets, she enlightened us with a “brief ” history dating back to the fourth century B.C. The island has been occupied over the centuries by armies from the various Italian kingdoms, Phoenicians, Byzantines and Arabs (lastly, more than 500 years ago, by Catalans). To this day there is still a strong Catalan presence in Alghero. Amazingly Gianfranca’s first language is not Italian but a dialect of Catalan still spoken by the locals.
On day two it was back to work visiting the winery and vineyards of Santa Maria La Palma. More than 50 years ago, the winery was started by numerous families of humble winemakers. They are very proud of the fact that there is not a noble family that sits at the helm of the winery. Instead it is a group of 326 growers who contribute to the wines. The head agronomist, Michelangelo Ruiu, showed us several of the vineyards surrounding the winery. Michelangelo has a very serious, no-nonsense aura about him. He tells the winemakers precisely what he is looking for with regards to ripeness, yields, harvest dates and just about anything involved in the vineyards. He explained to us that he must operate this way to assure the highest quality grapes. You can currently find three of Santa Maria La Palma’s wines at your local ABC Fine Wine & Spirits: Aragosta Vermentino, Vermentino Blu and Le Bombarde Cannonau. Cannonau is also known as Grenache, and the other two wines are made with Vermentino, a light, crisp, refreshing style of wine. The Blu is a bit more complex and concentrated than the Aragosta. Someone who enjoys Pinot Grigio, Pinot Blanc or unoaked Chardonnay will love these wines. Day three was an opportunity for Santa Maria La Palma to showcase some of the natural beauty that surrounds the winery. From my hotel in Alghero I could see in the distance some beautiful limestone cliffs jutting out into the sea. These cliffs, known as Capo Caccia,
Alghero, Italy
were our destination for the day. A scenic drive past many vineyards brought us to the entrance of the Porto Conte Regional Park where the cliffs are located. This enormous and protected national park is home to an incredible array of unique wildlife and plants. Hiking inside the park was a magical experience. Wild horses, white donkeys and deer were everywhere, while rare griffon vultures soared overhead. The air had an intoxicating smell of rosemary, wild flowers and the sea. Our guides took us down some paths that ended abruptly with sheer drops down to breathtaking views of the turquoise Mediterranean. My only regret was that I only had a few more hours to explore this enchanting place. I’ve often said the opportunity to explore wine regions is the most gratifying part of my job. Three unparalleled days in Sardinia has only inspired me to return someday soon. History, culture, dazzling landscapes, incredibly fresh seafood and lip-smacking wines—what’s not to like? Oh and did I mention some of the most hospitable people you will ever meet? No wonder Sardinia is the world’s ultimate Blue Zone with a higher percentage of centenarians than any other place on Earth!
Cliffs of Capo Caccia
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W INE LIST RED CABERNET SAUVIGNON
CHENIN BLANC
Bodega del Fin del Mundo Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (p 6) Tormentoso Cabernet Sauvignon (p 9)
Domaine de la Poultière Emotion Demi-Sec (p 11)
GRENACHE
Tormentoso Old Vine Chenin Blanc (p 8)
Le Bombarde Cannonau (p 3)
MALBEC
Bodega del Fin del Mundo FIN Malbec (p 6) Bodega del Fin del Mundo Reserva Malbec (p 6)
MOURVÈDRE
Tormentoso Mourvèdre (p 9)
PINOTAGE
Tormentoso Bush Vine Pinotage (p 9)
RED BLEND
Bodega del Fin del Mundo Special Blend Reserva (p 6) Ca’ Momi Rosso di Napa (p 5) Clos de los Siete Red (p 6) Tormentoso Syrah & Mourvèdre (p 9) Xavier Vins Châteauneuf du Pape (p 14) Xavier Vins Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Anonyme 2009 (p 14) Xavier Vins Gigondas 2010 (p 14) Xavier Vins Vacqueyras 2010 (p 14)
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WHITE
Domaine de la Poultière Moëlleux Les Perruches (p 11)
RIESLING
Schloss Reinhartshausen Erbacher Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese 2014 (p 13) Schloss Reinhartshausen Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Kabinett 2014 (p 13) Schloss Reinhartshausen Riesling Dry Old Vines 2014 (p 13)
SANCERRE
Serge Laloue Sancerre Cul de Beaujeu (p 16)
VERMENTINO
Aragosta Vermentino (p 3) Vermentino Blu (p 3)
CA’ MOMI: Napa, Italian Style! S H AY N E H E B E RT
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ext time you are visiting the lovely Napa Valley, make sure you work into your travel plans lunch at Ca’ Momi Enoteca in the Oxbow Public Market in downtown Napa. As you know, Napa Valley is packed to the brim with wineries, and plenty of excellent restaurants can be found at every crossroad and in each town. Ca’ Momi is unique in that they not only serve up some of the best traditional Italian dishes in Napa, but they also make their own wines, not just for the Enoteca, but for distribution in 47 states, including Florida! Ca’ Momi wines are the result of nearly 10 years hard work by Italian, Dario de Conti. Dario, a native of Verona, arrived in Napa a dozen years ago with an enology degree from the University of Padua. He worked his way through college making pizzas, which proved to come in handy at the Enoteca. Once the wine project came together, he partnered with Valentina Guolo-Migotto, also Veronese, and Stefano Migotto with the goal of opening the Enoteca in downtown Napa. Valentina prepares dishes that reflect the roots of traditional Veronese cuisine. As Valentina says, the menu celebrates “la cucina povera,” or cooking from “the poor people’s kitchen.” Valentina is dedicated to regional dishes with flavors and ingredients rooted in simplicity, crafted with the highest-quality organic ingredients sourced from nearby farms and Ca’ Momi’s gardens. Ca’ Momi began making hand-crafted wine in Napa in 2006. The wine/name was branded in 2008 and, to help promote the wines, a tasting room was opened in 2010 in Napa’s Oxbow Public Market. Where there is wine, so goes food, and the kitchen opened with the idea of serving only traditional Italian dishes, specializing in pizzas and pastries. In a recent interview I had with Dario, I asked him what he felt makes him different from everyone else on the Napa food scene. He said, “Authenticity first. We combine
@ A B C W I N E S H AY N E
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S H A Y N E H @ A B C F W S. C O M
the traditional Italian lifestyle, wine with every meal, wine for food, with the lifestyle of Napa Valley… but in a non-elitist way, authentic and affordable, with wines that are purely Napa, accompanied by a food-friendly style, to complement the food.” His thought was if the food was true to his roots and the wines paired well, but remained honest to the Napa style, success would follow, and he appears to have been correct! I asked Dario what he feels is the most popular wine and food pairing at the restaurant. “Pizza Margherita and the Rosso di Napa Red Blend,” he quickly answered. Turns out it’s one of his favorites too—you can’t go wrong with pizza from this Napa restaurant, especially since Ca’ Momi’s celebrated pizza carries the Verace Pizza Napoletana (VPN) certification. Yes, there really are food police (seems like great work if you can get it)! The VPN certification is given to pizzerias who meet strict requirements that respect the tradition of the art of the Neapolitan pizza making. The Enoteca pours through a couple of thousand cases of the eponymous wine annually. In addition to the Ca’ Momi wines available by bottle or glass, the Enoteca offers patrons a wine list comprised of only Italian wines! The group has plans for a new restaurant opening in 2015, Ca’ Momi Osteria, in downtown Napa. The winemaking facility is nearby, also in the town of Napa. The wines are all made there, not only for the Ca’ Momi brand, but for their private label business. While much of the fruit is sourced from Napa Valley, Dario and his partners own vineyards in the Carneros district: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, of course! I hope to make both the restaurant and the winemaking facility a stop this summer while we are in wine country. The Ca’ Momi Enoteca is located at 610 First Street in Napa.
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Michel Rolland Takes Argentina JIM GREELEY • @ABCWINEJIMG • JAMESG@ABCFWS.COM
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ordeaux is unquestionably France’s most famous wine region, but perhaps Bordeaux’s most significant wine export is not the prized allocations of Château Lafite-Rothschild or Château Pétrus, but rather the contributions of its highly influential winemaker, Michel Rolland. Google “Michel Rolland” and you’ll probably see the term “flying winemaker” on your search results. To the unfamiliar, this might conjure fanciful images of winged wine specialists or Roman god Mercury streaking skyward with a wine thief in hand instead of his caduceus. The term is a catchphrase for a consulting enologist who advises wineries, wine producers and winemaking teams as to their best practices, all while traveling great distances to do so. There are many such consultants in the wine industry today. Michel Rolland has a wellestablished reputation of being one of the best, excelling at his craft for more than three decades now. His list of clients spans 13 countries and numbers in the hundreds. He provides his expertise to many of the top estates in Bordeaux and other parts of France, but also consults throughout Europe, here in the US, in South Africa and South America. Yet, some of the more exotic wine locations he consults at include new frontiers. One of his out-of-the-way ventures is Bodega del Fin del Mundo in Patagonia. So where’s Patagonia actually? It’s at the southern end of Argentina, roughly 600 miles south of Argentina’s more famous wine region, Mendoza. Bodega del Fin del Mundo (translated “winery at the end of the world”) lies within the province of Neuquén, an ideal place for growing quality wine grapes thanks to its cool continental climate, chalky sub-soils and significant diurnal variation. The project was conceptualized in 1999 by founder and owner Julio Viola as a thoroughly modern, state-of-the-art wine facility and the first winery in the region as a whole. Beginning in 2005, Julio brought in Michel Rolland as consulting enologist to help define the bodega’s flagship wines. Today he collaborates with resident winemaker Marcelo Miras and his winemaking team, overseeing an operation capable of pro-
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ducing a whopping 11 million bottles annually. Bodega del Fin del Mundo produces mostly red varieties including Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Tempranillo and Pinot Noir. Roughly 15 percent of production is assigned to white grapes like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Torrontes. The red wines of Del Fin del Mundo hallmark Michel Rolland’s ripe and fleshy style, focusing on depth of varietal fruit, round tannins and well-integrated new oak. 2009 Bodega del Fin del Mundo Special Blend Reserva ($33): Comprised of roughly equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Merlot with 18 months in new French oak barrels, this blend is big, full and round on the palate with jammy black fruits, cocoa, tobacco and Asian spice. 2011 Bodega del Fin del Mundo FIN Malbec ($33): Sourced from the El Potrero vineyard, this Malbec is deeply colored with plum, mission fig and eucalyptus, with a long and elegant finish. 2013 Bodega del Fin del Mundo Reserva Malbec ($16): A solid Malbec value with intense notes of blackberry, violet and hints of vanilla; aged up to 12 months in new French and American oak barrels. 2013 Bodega del Fin del Mundo Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon ($16): A nicely balanced wine with black currant fruit and dark chocolate with a touch of mint and tobacco. Michel Rolland also presides at Clos de los Siete in Mendoza’s Uco Valley. Started in 1998 as a joint venture with the late Jean-Michel Arcaute of Château Clinet and five other Bordelaise wine producers, Clos de los Siete (“vineyard of the seven”) was a monumental undertaking in the Vista Flores district. Today the project unites four bodegas run by four Bordeaux families encompassing nearly 2,100 acres under vine with the goal of producing one singular grand vin. Clos de los Siete Red ($21) is a blend of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot. The wine presents a dense, lush style with blackberries, cocoa, spice, hints of anise and crushed stones.
Malbec vines
Mendoza, Argentina
Andes Mountains
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Enjoy Summer
the South African Way
B I L L S T O B B S • @ A B C W I N E B I L L S • B I L L S @A B C F W S. C O M
I
n America, as in many parts of the world, summer means grilling and dining outdoors, usually in the company of friends and family. The art and craft of grilling goes under many names and though it may have its regional inflections, there is much in the tradition that is universal. In South Africa it is called the braai, from the Afrikaans word braaivleis which translates as “grilled meat.” As a social custom, the braai should be informal, casual and very relaxed. Meat is almost always the mainstay of the meal in the form of boerewors (beef sausages sometimes mixed with lamb or pork or both), sosaties (cubes of meat – usually lamb or mutton – served on skewers with onions, peppers and dried apricots), spareribs and all manners of marinades. In coastal areas, fish and rock lobster are sometimes served. To accompany the meat, South Africans often serve pap, which is a traditional porridge made from finely ground corn/maize and eaten with vegetables, chili, monkey gland sauce or a spicy chakalaka. Salad is also served. When the enjoyment of alcoholic beverages (usually wine or beer) becomes a part of the celebration, as it often does, it is colloquially referred to as dop en tyop. Traditionally the braai is heated by wood, though now, as in the rest of the world, charcoal, briquettes or gas is often used for convenience. Also like much of the rest of the world, the braai is the preserve of men. One man is in charge of the braai. Other men will stand around and socialize and drink while he grills, but propriety demands that they do not interfere with the braai unless asked to. The women prepare the pap as well as salads, vegetables and dessert, and all join together to enjoy the celebration. Great wine always enhances a celebration and, in keeping with our South African theme, we suggest the Tormentoso wines as the perfect match for whatever may be on your braai. The name Tormentoso translates as “Cape of Storms” which was the former name of the Cape of Good Hope going back to 1488. The wines are a well-regarded, highly-rated, affordable range with rich, concentrated flavors and aromas. The award-winning Tormentoso Old Vine Chenin Blanc ($12) will delight everyone, especially those who have overlooked the pleasures of this variety. A rich white with peach and apricot aromas and tropical flavors, it has a well-balanced acidity and mineral finish. It will pair perfectly with the fish or rock lobster on your braai as well as with curry dishes, sushi and camembert-style cheeses.
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For the beef on your braai there’s Tormentoso Cabernet Sauvignon ($12). This wine offers juicy, mouthwatering cassis flavors well-aligned with vanilla oak and the kind of lingering finish that cannot help but bring pleasure. And what of Tormentoso Bush Vine Pinotage ($13)? Pinotage – South Africa’s own signature cross of Pinot Noir and Cinsaut – can often be an uninteresting (and sometimes even downright awful) varietal. But when made with understanding, as it is here, it becomes the perfect outdoor red. Full-bodied with floral aromas and flavors of black cherry, toasted marshmallows and sweet fruit, this soft and pretty wine is excellent with grilled meats as well as spicy Asian and curry dishes. While Pinotage is sometimes regarded as South Africa’s flagship red wine, there are many that would argue that Syrah is the red that they really do best. Tormentoso Syrah & Mourvèdre ($12) adds fuel to that argument with its intensely aromatic and spicy dark fruit. And again it is a winner with any meat that happens to be on your braai. Last, but far from least, is Tormentoso Mourvèdre ($12), a personal favorite. Mourvèdre is not a go-to grape variety for many Americans but please take a dare and try this. Complex and layered with berry and soft spice aromas and red fruit, clove and spice on the palate, it is the ideal mate for hearty food. Great food prepared and enjoyed out of doors with hearty and delicious wine—who could ask for more? Be inspired to enjoy your summer the South African way. Light your braai and pour the Tormentoso! Gesondheid!
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UMAMI A L L I E S M A L LW O O D • A L L I E S @ A B C F W S . C O M
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he rich, resonant chord played on
or egg custard. A well-aged German
a cello. The soothing and intoxicating
Riesling exemplifies a white bursting
warmth of a hot tub. The melt-in-your-
with umami!
mouth sensation of a filet mignon. President of WineQuest and master of wine, Those are umami, the fifth flavor, and the
Tim Hanni, was recruited as an umami pupil
new rock star of the gastronomic world.
during a Japanese sommelier training 24 years ago. One of the students asked Hanni
Parmesan cheese fosters it, truffle mushrooms
how he would refer to the amino acid taste in
live with it, and cured meats abound in it…
Aged Parmesan cheese
but a secret powerhouse of this satiating, voluminous flavor is actually wine.
wine. Hanni had no idea what “umami” was or what the student was referring to. After some heavy research, he realized that it’s been in conversation for over 1,200 years!
About 100 years ago, Japanese chemist Kikunae Ikeda discovered the fifth taste
Foods high in umami send bitter to an
that exists on our tongues. Glutamic acid
unpalatable level. Older wines, it seems, pair
is the reason why our tongues perceive it.
better with chicken and beef because of this fact. Our own wine experts here at ABC
Glutamate exists in most breathing things,
recommend staying away from wines with
and when they die and their bodies break
high tannic value, as they will clash with
down, the molecules in the glutamate break
Roasted tomatoes
apart. Similarly, when you age a wine, age
the umami and make the pairing acerbic.
some cheese or ferment sauces, this same
Some Spanish fortified wines, such as Oloroso
process happens. When glutamate becomes
sherries from Jerez, Spain, Madeira from
L-glutamate (the break down) that’s when
Portugal and Sicilian Marsala, are umami in
things get delicious. We have 10,000 recep-
a bottle. With a dry and mushroom-y
tors on our tongue that grab onto umami.
profile, they are the epitome of savory
That’s part of why this flavor is so… filling.
and coax out the umami in foods.
Umami is less about texture than it is about the full, rounded flavor.
Muscadet, Sancerre and Amontillado also lend a culinary helping hand. Try a Riesling
While some wines themselves are brimming with umami, a more pleasurable way to
Truffle mushrooms
enjoy this flavor is by pairing wine to
or aged Burgundian for some fruit-forward sweetness that will only heighten the umami experience.
umami-laden foods. Go for wines that are soft but voluminous. Umami might taste like soy, olives or miso
Because umami is that feeling of satiety, of
paste in wine. One might think that reds
richness, of completeness, you need a wine
show umami flavors more, but whites can
that will match up. After all, you feel umami
and will taste of truffle mushrooms, tomato
more than you taste it.
Dashi
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Sweet Summer Sips CHRISTINA BYLER • CHRISTINAB@ABCFWS.COM
I
have found myself outside of my comfort zone when it comes to wine more often than I can count. Not usually attracted
to sweet treats in general, sweet wines that I really love come few and far between. So naturally, when I came across these particular sweet white wines, I was hesitant. All of that quickly melted away as I enjoyed the pleasant wines from the Pinon family’s Domaine de la Poultière Vouvray… both the Moëlleux “Les Perruches” ($18) and Emotion Demi-Sec ($17). Made from 100% Chenin Blanc, this 2008 Vouvray Moëlleux from the Loire Valley of France is the perfect balance between vibrant acidity and rich aromatic texture filled with fruits like apricot, peach and a dash of lemon on the finish. It is a dessert fit for any wine lover. The Emotion Demi-Sec is like the less sweet little sister here, but still holds its own character. With just a touch of sweetness, the balance here is more food-friendly. My favorite pairing in particular would be a spicy Asian dish. The refreshing finish, crisp acidity and flattering fruits make this a perfect summer match for any Florida occasion. The variety Chenin Blanc has been cultivated, most commonly, in the Loire Valley, for over 1,300 years now. Vouvray is one of the most famous and most respected appellations here, producing wines both dry and sweet, still and sparkling. Vouvray Moëlleux is at the sweetest end of the spectrum. Like the famous wines of Sauternes, it has the trademark honeyed characteristics of botrytis. What is most attractive is the way the sweetness gently rolls off the tip of your tongue, nothing overpowering or outrageously sweet, just enough to please the palate. Then, like nectar, it lingers ever so softly for an incredibly refreshing sip, seemingly created for our hot Florida days. Whether you are out on the boat, down by the beach, cooking out in the backyard or floating around your pool, this is sure to be a cool way to beat the heat this summer!
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A Noble Home for a Noble grape B R A D L E W I S • @ A B C W I N E C O U N T RY • B R A D L @ A B C F W S . C O M
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iesling is one of the world’s classic grape varieties and, possibly, the most misunderstood. Like other varieties, it has been planted around the world and, too often, in places where it can’t show its best. The bulk-produced Rieslings, or “plonk” as the Brits would say, often create the image of the variety to its detriment. Grown in less rich soil and a terroir that suits it, Riesling shows its stuff. The grape can produce wines from dry to some of the world’s most lush, balanced and long-lived dessert wines. Germany is the native home of Riesling where it exhibits different characteristics based on the soil, sun exposure, drainage and weather. The Rheingau region is a perfect marriage of terroir and grape variety. The region extends from the Main River near Frankfurt just past the bend in the river near Rüdesheim. The region
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faces nearly due south and gets maximum sun exposure and reflected light from the river. The vineyards are on a gentle slope and drain excess water into the river. Many of Germany’s great estates are owned by centuries of noble families. Schloss Reinhartshausen was, until recently, the property of the Princes of Prussia but was bought by the Lergenmüller family in 2013. The estate includes parcels in a number of the top sites in Hattenheim, the Nussbrunnen and Wisselbrunnen and in the Hohenrain, Siegelsberg, Marcobrunn and Schlossberg in neighboring Erbach. The Marcobrunn is one of the acknowledged great vineyards of Germany and the Schlossberg is next to the schloss and a monopole of the estate. Bill Stobbs and I visited the estate with Stefan Lergenmüller last year. We were
impressed beyond the high level I already expected. Because of my fascination with history, I made a career of wine. And Schloss Reinhartshausen has plenty of it. Vineyards were first cultivated there in 1337 by the knights of Allendorf. In 1742, the property was bought by Ludwig Christoph Langwerth von Simmern who named it after his father, Phillip Reinhart. In 1800, Graf (Count) Clemens August of Westphalia acquired the estate and the island nearby in the Rhein, the Mariannenaue. He had the old buildings torn down and the current schloss built. Princess Marianne of Prussia bought the estate in 1855, beginning more than a century of ownership by the family. Stefan Lergenmüller took us on a tour of the old estate and it was a flashback in time. The schloss is now a hotel with a world-class restaurant. The cellars beneath the old winery buildings are classic, carved
With Stefan Lergenmüller in the Thanks Bob vineyard
out of the subsoil with vaulted ceilings and tracks in the floor for the carts that were used to move the wines for shipment. The wines were loaded onto barges in the river and floated downstream to Rotterdam for shipment to the world. The schatzkammer, or “treasure room,” holds an array of wines dating to the 19th century. It’s one of the most intact cellars in Europe. New, more modern cellars were built on the outskirts of Erbach in 1989. Next step was a visit to the Mariannenaue, an island in the Rhein owned entirely by the estate. It’s a protected wildlife habitat but has winery buildings and a vineyard. I had always wanted to see it but access is restricted and only by boat from the estate. Riesling is not at its best there but other varieties do well. On advice from Robert Mondavi in the 1970s, Chardonnay was added to the existing varieties. When it worked, Prince Nikolaus Friedrich sent Mondavi a letter saying “Thanks Bob” which is now the name of the Chardonnay from the vineyard.
The best Riesling vineyards are just above the road through the Rheingau between Hattenheim and Erbach. The vineyards with brunnen (springs) in the name, the Nussbrunnen and Wisselbrunnen in Hattenheim and Marcobrunn in Erbach, have underground water and produce top wines even when the summer is very dry. The Hohenrain and Siegelsberg vineyards are a little higher on the slope. The Schlossberg extends along the road beside the schloss and belongs entirely to the estate, a rarity these days. In the parts of German wine country south and west of the Rhein, the Napoleonic Code was enforced secularizing church property and dividing it among private owners. This did not happen in the Rheingau but divided inheritance has had some of the same effect.
The famous Marcobrunn spring and vineyard
Our staff tasted wines from the estate in our office recently and were captivated. It would have been easy to add them all but it would have been overkill at this point. We picked three to offer a range and introduce the wines of this great estate. They will be coming soon.
Schloss Reinhartshausen Riesling Dry Old Vines 2014 ($20) This wine shows the bright red apple notes of Riesling with minerality and a crisp, dry finish. It’s a good match for subtle foods like shellfish or grilled fish. Schloss Reinhartshausen Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen Riesling Kabinett 2014 ($20) The kabinett from this vineyard has a moderate amount of residual sugar that is balanced by the firm acidity of Riesling. It matches well with spicy foods and dishes with cream sauces. Schloss Reinhartshausen Erbacher Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese 2014 ($30) The wine from this grand cru vineyard is spectacular with great depth and the balancing acidity that make the wines of this region among the world’s finest. Wines of this level can age gracefully for decades or centuries.
It’s All in the Label AT A N A S N E C H KOV • @ A B C W I N E AT A N A S • AT A N A S N @ A B C F W S. C O M
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avier Vignon is currently one of the most brilliant and celebrated young winemakers and consultant enologists in the Southern Rhône Valley and the Châteauneuf du Pape appellation in particular. He personally consults for a dozen of the top wine estates in Châteauneuf du Pape and the laboratory under his expert guidance provides services to over 200 wineries in the Southern Rhône area. He has also created a line of wines under the Xavier label that have been available at ABC Fine Wine & Spirits for over five years now and they are all of excellent quality and value! Having had the pleasure of meeting Xavier on a few occasions, I was both puzzled and intrigued from the beginning by his label, as he wasn’t at all a pretentious type of person to put his name on a wine bottle. I’d never asked him, “Why that label?” but was pleasantly surprised when he volunteered an explanation during his most recent visit here to Central Florida. The story of the Xavier label is amusing and could be worthy of a Hollywood movie script! Xavier Vins Gigondas $33 92 points, Wine Spectator
The whole thing started when two of Xavier’s good friends, both of them also in the wine business, asked him to blend a bit of wine for them to enjoy on a weekend. And so he did… Xavier blended some wine and poured it into two blank bottles for his friends. These two mischievous friends of Xavier had something else in mind. Their plan was to submit his two sample bottles to the most prestigious wine publication of France, Le Guide Hachette, the French version of the Wine Spectator! And that’s exactly what his two friends did. They stuck post-it notes with his name on the blank bottles of Xavier’s blend. The prestigious jury of Le Guide Hachette awarded their highest score of 3 stars to Xavier’s bottles and included a picture (Coup de Coeur) of Xavier’s handwritten white post-it label in the final publication.
Xavier Vins Vacqueyras $30 91 points, Wine Spectator
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The days immediately following the publication of the Guide Hachette were “absolutely the most frightening” according to Xavier himself, as these bottles were unknowingly submitted to the Guide Hachette with Xavier’s home address and cell phone number (he didn’t have a workplace of his own at that time). So when his phone was suddenly ringing off the hook with potential customers inquiring about availability of his wine, he was totally clueless and was totally in the dark about what was going on!
Things only got worse when people started showing up at his door asking to purchase wine! One chaotic incident in particular was when a Belgian buyer and retailer suddenly showed up with a very large truck, ready to load up pallets of wine (as it normally works on a first come, first served basis). This retailer, in his truck following the GPS, ventured farther and farther down the narrow streets of the small medieval village until he could go no farther and got stuck in an impasse. The only way to release the truck came in the form of a lengthy and unpleasant process of cutting down a centennial olive tree of Xavier’s neighbor. (This turned out to be a hilarious Belgian tale!) Things worsened when the police and lawyers started showing up at Xavier’s door asking him the question, “Sir, is this is a fraud?” They were insistently asking him this because nothing had been officiated or registered by Xavier and now he was unknowingly put into such a predicament from his mischievous buddies—he could be fined and even arrested with the next stop being jail! Due to this, Xavier knew that immediate action needed to happen. Luckily, the mayor of the small village and his neighbors came to his rescue. The villagers clearly saw that something very peculiar was going on because of the presence and mayhem of cars and visitors showing up there.
Xavier Vins Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Anonyme $40 96 points, Wine Spectator
A plan of action was put in place. The first step was to find some wine made by Xavier: A buyer in Australia agreed to send back 1,000 cases of Rhône wine blended by Xavier! To continue with the plan, a new simple white post-it label with Xavier’s name scrawled across it was quickly created and printed so that when he received his wine back from Australia, all his neighbors would pull together to apply the new label on these bottles to create his new wine. What a save! After doing all this for his new customers who would now come to purchase wine, Xavier gave each one of them two bottles per person with the promise that “next year there will be more.” Thus, Xavier Vins SARL was born! Five Southern Rhône Valley wines from Xavier Vins are currently available at ABC Fine Wine & Spirits. They are all best value in their category and have received top ratings by the Wine Advocate.
Xavier Vins Châteauneuf du Pape $35 91 points, Wine Spectator
Xavier Vignon Old vine Grenache at Clos d’Alzan
8989 South Orange Ave. Orlando, Florida 32824
W I NE
TO
WATCH:
Serge Laloue Sancerre Cul De Beaujeu AROMA :
WHITE FLOWERS AND LEMON ZEST
VAR IETA L :
sauvignon blanc F LA V O R :
mineral, earthy lemongrass with deep richness of miso paste and grapefruit wine journal | 16
B OD Y:
medium C O L O R:
PALE GOLD F I N I S H:
refreshing with vibrant acidity RE GI O N :
SANCERRE, FRANCE P A I R
WI TH: