Fall in
with
Leelanau
Leelanau Enterprise 2012
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LET LEELANAU TEMPT THE AUTUMN LOVER IN YOU
Meaningful wines, Pages 24-31
Beautiful color, tours, Pages 5-16
And of course, food, Pages 37-47
MORE REASONS TO FALL IN LOVE WITH LEELANAU
Autumn arts, Pages 19-23
Wilderness adventure, Pages 53-56
A full line-up, Pages 60-63
About the Guide We hope you enjoy the 2012 version of the Fall in Love with Leelanau guidebook as much as we had fun putting it together. All members of the Leelanau Enterprise staff contributed — writers, layout artists, printers, sales people, the front office and
Sept. 20 edition of the Leelanau Enterprise, with more copies distributed throughout Leelanau County and nearby areas starting the following week. We welcome story ideas for the 2013 guide, which should be submitted to Alan Campbell at
stuffers. It was produced by Enterprise Printing, a part of the Enterprise operation that is also housed at 7200 E. Duck Lake Road, Lake Leelanau 49653. Please feel free to contact us for extra copies at (231) 256-9827. The guidebook was inserted in the
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alan@leelanaunews.com, as well as advertising inquiries, which should be directed to Debra Campbell at deb@leelanaunews.com. The Campbells are owners and publishers of the Leelanau Enterprise.
Leelanau Color Tour 2012
OCTOBER 5-6-7, 2012 Plan your visit to Leelanau County for the Columbus Day Weekend and be a part of the SEVENTH FALL FOR ART IN LEELANAU GALLERY TOUR Oct. 5-6 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Oct. 7 10 a.m. - 2 p.m. • Prize drawing and reception 3 p.m. Sunday at Lake Street Studios in Glen Arbor. • Door prizes. • Good food. Good spirits. • Beautiful art for viewing and purchase.
Look for the bright yellow signs.
Leelanau Color Tour 2012
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For further information please call (231) 334-4230 Find us on Facebook
Taste
the Color Picking one date for peak autumn color in Leelanau County is akin to naming a winner in a cherry pie contest. Much research is required. Go forth and taste. Indeed, color comes in many places at many times in Leelanau County, starting with ripening apples and grapes, moving to field edges of sumacs and browning bracken ferns, and then to tree canopies — poplars to maples to oaks. Which one signifies peak color? You be the judge. Leelanau goes so far as to provide variables within the variables, as its outer edges get a later start toward the color spectrum thanks to buffering from the still-warm waters of Lake Michigan and Grand Traverse Bay. So after maple leaves have dropped in Cedar, take a drive to Good Harbor. Or if there’s a bit much green for your taste in Suttons Bay, head to Maple City. All these options, though, tend to run along a set calendar once leaves start to show color — which poses a question. Will the fall color display be late or early in 2012, given some rather unusual weather? Depends who you talk with. “There is not much showing on maples right now,” said Gerald Brandt heading into Labor Day weekend. He’s a cherry farmer whose Farview Orchards overlook West Grand Traverse Bay off Herman Road in Suttons Bay Township. “I’m going to say that our whole growing season looks like it was early, but I’m going to say color will be a little late, maybe a week or maybe 10 days,” Brandt said. Leelanau’s fruit crops suffered from a spring bloom that was 2-3 weeks early, swelling cherry buds that were then killed off by frosts. Weather problems continued in August, when Leelanau County is accustomed to receiving 3.35 inches of rain, according to National Weather Service records. Only .67 inches fell in August at the Northwest Michigan Horticultural Research Station in Bingham Township. A weather station in East Leland recorded .8 inches. It’s been bone dry. Jim Nugent, who at one time was coordina-
When to pick the perfect time for a color tour? You can always rely on blue being out there, especially when peering across Lake Michigan from Peterson Park near Northport. tor of the station, is retired to a cherry farm he owns just a few miles south of Farview. He’s expecting an early start to the color season — especially after watching in late August a poplar tree unceremoniously dump its yellow leaves before they could be enjoyed. “I think we’ll see some premature colors because of drought stress. I’m sure of that,” said Nugent. Having worked in horticulture for so many years, Nugent knows what’s needed for fall colors to put on a masterful display: crisp, fall nights and bright sunshine, the same combination that makes apples red and visitors smile. He had no prediction on the type of weather ahead for early fall. Dianne Flaugh, acting chief of resources for Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, said she expects an “extended color season.” That’s because, like Nugent, she’s seen some stress in trees. Will color be early or late? “With the warm temperatures in general ... I
don’t know.” AAA Michigan, the insurance company that takes tourism seriously, put out a press release around Labor Day quoting MSU forestry professor Mel Koelling. The release stated that “this year’s winter snowfall and summer rain across much of the state meant a great forest growing season and the potential for an excellent fall color show.” Of course, neither of those two scenarios apply to Leelanau County, which was short on snowfall from a historical perspective and lipsmacking dry in August. Nancy Cain, a public relations specialist with AAA, acknowledged that predicting localized fall color can be difficult. But she did feel confident making one prediction following a busy summer tourism season in Leelanau County and across the state. “We believe that trend will continue through the fall color season. A lot of people have really taken to fall colors.” — by Alan Campbell
A tour of Leelanau County in the fall is delicious 5
Leelanau Color Tour 2012
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Leelanau Color Tour 2012
AUTUMN TRIPLET
When the Road Commission purchased the land at Inspiration Point, commissioners decided immediately to acquire more land to create an even better view of Glen Lake. The result is an unsurpassed point of beauty that exemplifies perhaps Leelanau’s most treasured resource — water. Vic Steimel Park in Suttons Bay Township Sometimes the Suttons Bay area is overlooked as a destination of color, which is easy to understand given the village’s other amenities for tourists: friendly shops, public beaches that seem to stretch through the entire village, and access to a bevy of wineries. Consequently, Vic Steimel Park is often overlooked, despite its access to west Grand Traverse Bay, peaceful setting amongst hardwoods and floor of colorful stones along the shoreline. After all, it’s located on Stony Point. To get there from Suttons Bay, head south on M-22, cut toward the bay on Beach St., then turn right and keep the water to your left as you move by summer homes and orchards. The road quickly becomes Stony Point Rd. After rounding the peninsula, you find the well-marked entrance to the park on your left. “This is a fairly small and quiet neighborhood beach,” said Township Supervisor Rich Bahle. “Vic Steimel was once the ‘mayor’ of Stony Point, and the land was donated to the township 20 years ago. We’ve made some minor improvements to the park over the years, but the views speak for themselves.” From the park, you can see to Charlevoix on a clear day. You’ll find port-a-potties available, picnic tables and a water pump.
Leelanau’s full of beautiful color tour stops. Here are three that make the short list. A Leelanau Color tour is all about the drive, right? Wrong. When done properly, it’s also about the stops — and Leelanau County has a long list of places you’ll want to park the car. That’s somewhat ironic for a county with only one stoplight to its name. What makes a perfect stop on a color tour? Some things we can’t guarantee, such as a cool, lake breeze on a warm fall day. But we’ve provided three below that, regardless of the weather, offer panoramic views and space to stretch your legs. Inspiration Point in Burdickville A timeless favorite for young couples to “park,” the name of the lookout gives everything away. To get there from Maple City, take County Road 616, also known as Burdickville Road, west toward Glen Lake. As Burdickville Road turns into MacFarlane Road, you’ll enter the National Lakeshore and head up a winding road. You’ll find Inspiration Point, a pull off owned
and maintained by the Leelanau County Road Commission, at the top. The precious piece of land offers an eagle’s view of big Glen Lake — and much more. You might not want to leave. Little Glen Lake and Sleeping Bear Dunes off in the distance on the left. Straight ahead, the sentry hills that guard the flanks of Glen Arbor give way, providing a place for Crystal River to zigzag from Glen Lake to Lake Michigan. And beyond Glen Arbor lies South Manitou Island, which appears temptingly close. “I rarely pass by the area without pulling on to Inspiration Point Drive to take in the view,” said Leelanau County Road Commissioner Glen Noonan. A lifelong resident, Noonan is the longest-serving road commission in Michigan — and won the Republican nomination in the August primary for another sixyear term. He was first elected in 1973. “There are a lot of spectacular views in the county, but few equal Inspiration Point,” he said.
Inspiration Point elevates an autumn color tour to the top of the world.
Leelanau Color Tour 2012
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Peterson Park in Leelanau Township Closer to the tip of the pinky, Peterson Park is a beach and picnic overlook. To get there, head north on M-22 until the northern most point of the highway. That’s how you know you’re pretty far north. Drive through the village of Northport, stopping at Stubb’s Sweetwater Grill for a bite to eat or Brew North for a cup of coffee. Follow Mill St./M-201 north out of town, where it will hit E. Peterson Park Road Head left and follow the curves through the Jeff Lamont Preserve that is maintained by the Leelanau Conservancy. The trees have branches that hang over the hilly road, creating a canopy of autumn color. At the end of the road, Peterson Park will greet you. Head down the hill into the parking lot where you’ll be faced head-on by Lake Michigan. You don’t have to go down to the beach to succumb to the power of the great lake’s wind and waves. Step out onto the wooden platform for views of North Manitou Island and the Fox islands in the distance. While the autumn views presented in this story take in different bodies of water — Glen Lake from Inspiration Point, West Grand Traverse Bay from Vic Steimel Park and Lake Michigan from Peterson Park — that doesn’t preclude stopping along the way to take in other sights. “How you take in the views of the county depends on what you’re doing with your life,” said Noonan. A lifelong farmer, he appreciates watching corn crops from planting to harvest. And, of course, that perch atop Inspiration Point.
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LITTLE CIRCLE
E I V
vegetation of the Crystal River is majestic. • Next up is the canoe portage. A long look into the river may identify logs that seem to move. And they may be moving — if they’re salmon. Look closely. • Down the road on the right is a gravel drive and parking area. The Crystal River Dam, maintained by the Glen Lake Lake Association through a court order issued years ago, provides a stopping place for salmon looking to spawn. Once again, the Crystal River lives up to its name here. The water sparkles in the sunlight,
and swift runs expose gravelly river bottoms. • Pull back onto CR 675 from the lot outlet on Fisher Road The road is now called Dunn’s Farm Road, but don’t be alarmed. This is typical of Leelanau County roads as their numbers and names change with little notice. In fact, the paved road around big Glen Lake takes on six names before returning to the Fisher Dam. Continue past the Crystal River Corporation and start climbing the hill. About a mile after the dam, look to the right for your first glimpse of Big Glen Lake.
Take a smaller “circle tour” to enjoy one of the world’s most beautiful lakes. Leelanau Color Tour 2012
• Continue up the remainder of the hill and look left to find the stoic Foothills Motel & Cafe, specializing in breakfast and sandwiches. • For a challenge, at least by bicycle, turn left onto Trumbull Road. Head up the winding hill. At the entrance to the Miller Hill Estates subdivision, check the view of Glen Lake through your rearview mirror. The lake seems to hide behind the trees, but its dark blue water sparkles under the autumn sun. • Head back down to Dunn’s Farm Road and turn left. You’ll quickly come across Old Settlers Park on your right. The park offers picnic tables, a swing set and slide, and closeup views of Big Glen Lake. Let the kids roam a bit and head down the rickety wooden staircase to the beach, where you’ll get an eyeful of color and water. The chapel provides a popular setting for weddings, and is maintained by the Glen Arbor Women’s Club. A service is held in the chapel each year as part of the Old Settler’s Picnic on the first Sunday of August. • Around the corner on your left is Burdickville Market. Grab an ice cream for the kids, or if your timing is right, head up the road for French or Italian cuisine at Restaurant La Bécasse or Trattoria Funistrada. The restaurants regularly receive accolades in foodie blogs and articles focused on northern Michigan. • You’ll soon be re-entering Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. Head up the hill and take the curve toward Inspiration Point. If are any kind of adventurer, you’ll have to pull into the (Continued on Page 11)
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You never know how long you’ll spend on a Leelanau County road in the fall. Some people stay their whole lives. Those who own homes on Glen Lake have made that choice — and others wish that they could. Whether you start out of your garage after a burger at Art’s or the WAG — the latter being Western Avenue Grill for the uninitiated — there’s no better way to spend a fall day than taking a cruise around Glen Lake. Former Leelanau Enterprise intern Erin Bernhardt took such a tour, and recorded her ride along with many stops. The trip is fun by car, and challenging on a bike because of its steep hill near Inspiration Point. Let’s all take a trip around big Glen Lake, Leelanau’s smaller — but every bit as beautiful — “Circle Tour.” • We start our tour at the intersection of M-22 and CR 675, which is called Crystal View Road at that point. At the intersection, visitors can view the Crystal River in all its slow moving glory. The river is quiet and clear in mid-October, offering shallow waters to wade into if its warm enough. • Head east on Crystal View Road, following a sign pointing toward Burdickville. Close to the beginning of the drive, you’ll enter Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. Looking to the left is a low, swampy area. Rippling water flows through reeds that sway gently in the breeze. Even on a cloudy day, the
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Big Glen circle tour lawns across the road, the homes are well-maintained and popular places in the summer. Some of their owners have already closed them up for off-season. • Take a right off of M22 onto Sunset Drive. While it looks like a dead end, the road actually continues along the northwest side of big Glen for three-quarters of a mile. Then you’re on Lake Street, and soon you’ll hit a stop sign at the intersection with Northwood Drive, which begins with a sign marking it as a “scenic winding road,” a perfect place for a color tour. • Nearing the end of your tour, turn left onto Fisher Road. While you won’t be able to see Fisher Lake explicitly, know that it’s not far off the beaten track to your right. After a mile, you’ll hit CR 675 at the dam, still at work to slow the Crystal River’s curvy flow to Lake Michigan.
The Crystal River starts and ends a tour of big Glen Lake.
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(Continued from Page 10) gravel drive and park. It’s perhaps the best bird’s eye view of Leelanau County. The turquoise waters of big and little Glen Lake are divided by the Carl Oleson Memorial Bridge. You might think you’re looking at the Caribbean Sea — if it wasn’t for the stunning oranges, reds, and purples of trees that surround the lake. • CR 675 turns into MacFarlane Road as you head back down the hill. Turn off of MacFarlane onto M22 and soon you’ll be crossing the bridge. Parking is prohibited on the bridge, but slow down to see both Glens from eye level. On the left, you’ll see the Sleeping Bear Sand Dune Club across the lake. A stop to skip stones seems in order. • It’s interesting to take in the homes along M-22 between Glen Arbor and Glen Lake. Big and small, some nestled onto the lakeside and others with expansive
Leelanau Color Tour 2012
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TRI-CYCLE
Riding a bicycle in the fall, especially in Leelanau County, is a cool thing. Just ask any cyclist. You could take just about any road to get the gist of the beauty — water and color — but it may not be the safest route, especially for younger families. We suggest three possibilities for your two-wheeled autumn color tour in this story. The safest way to see the color on the east side of the county is along the non-motorized Leelanau Trail. The last 6.5 miles were paved this summer, providing a 15-mile thoroughfare for families wanting to go from Suttons Bay to Traverse City. “The paving of the Leelanau Trail is a really big deal,” said Northport’s Brooks Kelly, a Hagerty Racing Team member who commutes on his bicycle to work in Traverse City. “It’s ‘railroad grade’ ... i.e. flat.” On the west side of the county a view of upper Lake Leelanau, another 15-mile loop is also pretty safe and used by many. You can start anywhere along a course that basically takes M-22 north near Leland to County Road 641 and south on CR 641 to Eagle Hwy. and south on Eagle Hwy. to M-204 and then west back to M-22. The course runs through the communities of Leland and Lake Leelanau. “That north Lake Leelanau loop is great! It’s relatively flat with some great views of the lake,” Kelly said. “As I recall, there’s a cedar forest at the northern end that is pretty cool, too.” “I take that loop like every other day,” said Leland’s Rick Meese, who is somewhat of an expert on county roads having pedaled over 2,000 miles here this year. “It’s a favorite. It’s wonderful all the time. “And some of the days are just stunning.” Another enjoyable family ride on the west side of the county is a 24-mile route around Glen Lake that was used by the Cherry Capital Cycling Club in its annual Leelanau Harvest Tour in 2011. The course started and finished at The Leelanau Trail, shown here crossing Fort Road, provides cyclist with (Continued on Page 14) the safest route for viewing the county’s farms, fields and forests.
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Cycling Leelanau (Continued from Page 13) Glen Lake High School on Burdickville Road/CR 616, but you can begin the loop at any location. Its outline is covered in the “Little Circle” story that starts on page 10. The Leelanau Trail follows along the former Leelanau Scenic Railroad line, taking in farm fields and lush woods. “The Leelanau Trail takes cyclists through orchards, cornfields, vineyards and hardwoods,” said Pam Darling, development director of the Traverse Area Recreation and Transportation Trails, Inc., and an avid cyclist. “It is always an adventure to ride your bicycle to a quaint northern Michigan town and Suttons Bay fits the description to a tee. “There are unique shops, numerous options for enjoying a meal and even wineries adjacent to the trail.” If leaving from Suttons Bay, you can pick up the trail in the village at First and Cedar streets, although the first trailhead is a short distance ahead at Fourth Street. Public restrooms are available seasonally at the village marina. Year-round you can use the restrooms at Inland Seas Education Association, located at trail’s end across M-22 next to Boone’s Prime Time Pub. The trailhead at Fouch Road also connects to hiking trails on 145 acres of farmland owned by Leelanau Conservancy. Drinking water, a parking lot and restrooms are available. Continuing toward Traverse City, you’ll find lush forest canopies arching over the rail-trail, and you
Brooks Kelly and 4-year-old son Avery, of Northport, get ready to ride the Leelanau Trail at the trailhead in Suttons Bay at Fourth Street. Brooks Kelly, who works in Traverse City, often commutes to work on the newly paved Leelanau Trail. can feast your eyes on gorgeous greenery and an aquatic medley of streams, ponds and Cedar Lake. The trailhead at Cherry Bend Road just before you reach Traverse City is the trail’s official endpoint, marked by a historic caboose from the Leelanau Scenic Railroad. In summer portable toilets are located along the trail at the DeYoung
Natural Area, about one mile north of the Cherry Bend trailhead. Although the ride running parallel to the trail — along M-22 and Grand Traverse West Bay — is scenic, it’s not user-friendly. “While it’s tempting to ride on M-22 because of the scenery, I generally avoid it as the traffic is moving very fast,” Kelly said. “On the
other hand, the ‘interior’ roads, especially those north of Suttons Bay and Lake Leelanau are great (with) minimal traffic, wide, good visibility and great terrain.” The ride around upper Lake Leelanau takes cyclists through Lake Leelanau and Leland. “Both have great places to stop and enjoy a bite to eat,” Darling said. “The route is relatively flat and has good paved shoulders for cyclists. “The fall colors mirrored in the lake are an added bonus.” Meese, who rides all over Leelanau County but spends a lot of time east and north of Leland, said M-204 doesn’t offer spectacular views unless you like looking at houses. “But it has the widest shoulder in the county to ride on and that’s really nice,” he said. Meese notes that there are parts of the North Lake Leelanau loop that have little shoulder, so be careful of loose gravel. “In some parts, there’s a spray of gravel so it’s not so much fun there,” he said. Meese said the west side of Lake Leelanau is fun to ride heading north. M-22 traffic is much thinner there than along the state highway between Suttons Bay and Traverse City. “It’s nice and rolling and sweeps through Leland,” he said. “And the Leland Dam has a beautiful view.” The course heads north on M-22 to the tip of the lake and then reverses south to CR 641 back toward Lake Leelanau. A stop at Dr. John G. Suelzer East Leland Memorial Park is a bonus, Meese said. “From the park, there’s a lot of woods and you get some peek-aboos at the lake again,” Meese said. No matter where you ride, cyclists agree there’s nothing like (Continued on Page 16)
New route opened in Lakeshore
Leelanau Color Tour 2012
Northport’s Brooks Kelly said. “And you can ride the trail into town and get an ice cream cone or more.” The trail will eventually follow 27 miles through the Lakeshore from Empire to Good Harbor Road. Plans call for the construction to be completed by the summer of 2014. For more information on the Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail (http://sleepingbeartrail.org).
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Fall & Winter Classes Starting Now! Call or Visit our website for Class Schedule
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The Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail provides a new — and safe — alternative route for biking families. And it’s a shorty. The first five miles — starting at the Dune Climb — was recently paved. A ribbon cutting ceremony was held on June 20. The trail connects the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore to Glen Arbor. “It’s new and it will become an increasingly cool ride for families,”
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“
The lakes are spectacular and riding your bicycle provides a more intimate experience than seeing them through the windshield of your car.
”
— Pam Darling
Cycling Leelanau (Continued from Page 14) pedaling through Leelanau County when trees start to turn. “Riding in the fall you savor the scenery and changing leaves. There is less traffic and the weather is cooler,” Darling said. And there’s wildlife. “You see geese and ducks migrating,” she added. “This is like heaven,” Meese said. “The small towns are charming and these three rides let you experience four of them — Suttons Bay, Leland, Lake Leelanau and Glen
Arbor,” Darling said. “The lakes are spectacular and riding your bicycle provides a more intimate experience than seeing them through the windshield of your car. “The pace is slower in the fall and it’s easier to get a seat in restauNorthwoods Hardware rants. And locals have more time to Leelanau Enterprise talk.” “My favorite thing about riding Pots ad in the autumn is the smell of apples x 6” vertical as I ride 4” through the orchards,” Kelly said. “And the cool morning and that bright, bright autumn sun.” Bicyclists will find a wide shoulder on M-22 in most places, For more information on the Leelanau Trail visit the TART web- but traffic can be heavy between Traverse City and Suttons site. Bay. This threesome is headed toward Suttons Bay.
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Come try some of our house favorites Eggs Benedict Bomblette Buttermilk Pancakes Cinnamon Swirl French Toast
“Two roads diverged in a wood, and I-I took the one less traveled by, And that has made all the difference."
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- Robert Frost
visitglenarbor.com for a full calendar of fall events around Glen Lake
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Leelanau Color Tour 2012
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Leelanau Color Tour 2012
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CAPTURING
FALL COLORS
Artists embrace autumn’s pigments in Leelanau By Patti Brandt Special to the Color Tour
Living in Leelanau County gives many an artist the opportunity to capture beauty not seen in other areas of the country — especially the beauty of the fall landscape. It’s both an opportunity and a challenge, said local painter Jane Batteiger. “It’s inspiring to look at the same old road, the same old apple orchard in a different way,” Batteiger said. Of Glen Arbor, Batteiger has painted landscapes in all four seasons, each of which takes an entirely different color palette, she said. And capturing some of the more subtle changes on canvas may be something only someone who observes those changes on a daily basis can do. “As a painter I focus in on these changes,” Batteiger said. “Lake Michigan takes on a whole different persona. The sky changes. A fall sky is very different from a summer sky ... There’s a beauty to that change of season that’s very intriguing from a painter’s standpoint.” A former elementary school art teacher and
Style
Jane Batteiger works on fall landscapes in her home studio in Glen Arbor. The wellestablished painter loves the color palette of the fall season.
real estate agent, Batteiger has been a full-time resident of Glen Arbor for eight years, but has owned a home there for 12 years, and has been visiting the area since the mid 1980s. One of her favorite places to paint is Thoreson Farm, located in the Port Oneida historic district. Batteiger has been painting on and off her whole life but has been serious about it for about 15 years, she said. She is now a full-time painter with a one-woman show every year. She’s tried a lot of mediums, but is now using oil and acrylic. Don Drabik of Maple City is a watercolor artist who likes painting old things, such as timeless cars and barns. “I like to do old vehicles that are tucked away and abandoned with trees growing through them,” Drabik said. Leelanau County is a haven for historic barns and farming homesteads that have been preserved, he said. And it’s the texture on rocks, the reflection on old glass windows and shade from trees that make painting them so interesting. Drabik has lived in Leelanau County for about seven years, but had been a regular visitor for 30 years before that. Drabik made his living as a self-employed freelance illustrator, painting such things as printing presses,
machinery and automobiles. For a painter, fall in Michigan can’t be beat. “I like fall, I like the colors,” Drabik said. “Fall up here is just a gorgeous time of year, especially when you look at a yellow maple against a weathered barn. It’s probably my favorite time of year.” It’s not just the painting, though. Drabik likes the cool of fall mornings, the dewy grass and the feeling of crispness. “The air seems fresher and the sky seems bluer,” he said. Batteiger agrees. “The sky is blue, but it’s not blue out of the tube,” she said. Batteiger said she does not have a favorite season to paint. “There’s something special about every season,” she said. But fall colors are darker but richer. Greens aren’t as bright as they were in summer, and golds and yellows stand out. “Fall paintings are always more fun than just a summer painting because of the color,” Batteiger said. “There’s so many more colors to deal with.” Batteiger’s work can be seen at www.janebatteigerart.com. Drabik’s work can be seen at www.drabikstudiosnorth.com.
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Family
• Leland • 231-256-9501
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Classics
231.271.5009
All Season
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Leelanau Color Tour 2012
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Take advantage of our great Fall Lodging Deals Homes, Cottages, & Condos throughout Leelanau
(800) 901-8922 visitupnorth.com Own a property? Ask about our rental management services! Leelanau Color Tour 2012
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Autumn Lover Before there was the Fall In Love With Leelanau publication, art lovers were already busy falling in love. The seventh Fall for Art in Leelanau Gallery Tour will highlight an autumn full of events in a county that loves its art community. The event itself, held over a long weekend, is sponsored by galleries across the county during the heart of the color tour season. The dates for the gallery tour are Friday through Sunday, Oct. 5-7. The tour will be conducted from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Friday and Saturday, and from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday. Participants who visit all galleries — usually between 15 and 20 are involved stretching from Northport to Empire and most places in
between — and have their brochures signed are eligible for prices at a closing reception held at 3 p.m. Sunday at Lake Street Studios in Glen Arbor. Brochures are available at most galleries in the county, allowing those touring to start and end anywhere in the county. Potter John Huston, owner of the Glen Lake Artists Gallery, is again spearheading the effort. The tour was begun by Mary Eliowitz, a painter featured in his gallery. “People really enjoy it,� said Huston. “They can get out and see the county, and it’s usually good color time.� Some galleries provide artist demonstrations. Huston will be demonstrating pottery,
weather permitting. Call 334-4230 for further information. Fall for Art is part of a long lineup of art offerings set in Leelanau County in the following weeks. Following is a calendar: ART WALK Oct. 19 — Suttons Bay Fall Art & Wine Walk: Visit participating shops from 5-9 p.m. and meet award-winning local artists, sample Leelanau County Wines and receive a stamp and enter to win a $250 Village Shopping Spree. A different artist along with samples of his or her work will be available at each shop.
10085 West Front st. empire, mi 49630 10085 West Front st. Fine Art and Handcrafts “Empire Bluffs at Dawn� by Bruce Taggart
empire, mi 49630 “Empire Bluffs at Dawn� by Bruce Taggart More than 200 Artists“Empire Bluffs at Dawn� by Bruce Taggart
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10085 West Front st.
empire, mi 49630 10085 West Front s
empire, mi 49630
Fine Art and Handcrafts Fine Art and Handcrafts Open Daily More than 200 Artists Downtown Empire More than 200 Artists Open Daily Downtown Empire (231) 326-5428
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Open Daily Downtown Empire 10085 W. 326-5428 Front Street • Empire, MI 49630 (231) 231-326-2278 • www.sleepingbeargallery.com
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(231) 326-5428
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the secret garden
the secret garden
Art as an
Andy Evansen offers fall painting instruction through the Glen Arbor Art Association in classes taught at the Homestead.
Leelanau Color Tour 2012
A calendar for the arts in Leelanau GLEN ARBOR ART ASSOCIATION EVENTS The following gallery and artistin-residence events, sponsored by the Glen Arbor Art Association, will take place in the association’s studio off Lake Street in Glen Arbor. For more information on listed events call 334-6112, or visit www.glenarborart.org. Sept. 24-Oct. 4 — Ren Matais Mini-show: Monday through Friday, 9 a.m.-2 p.m. A retired Gaylord physician, Matais has been painting for almost 30 years as a hobby, most often en plein air using oils. Sept. 27 — 7:30 p.m.: Artist-inresidence Dorothy Brooks of East Lansing moves easily among the disciplines of art, writing and music in a career that has taken her around the world. She plans to write a series of poems about Lake Michigan and to create visual images that relate to her poetry. Sept. 26 — Readers’ Theater Auditions: 7 p.m., “The Thirtynine Steps,” a melodrama adapted from the novel by John Buchan and the 1935 film by Alfred Hitchcock. Oct. 5 & 6 — Fall for Art Members Art Show: A showing of art association members’ work. Oct. 11 — 7:30 p.m.: Artist-inresidence LC Lim, a painter of Gulph Mills, Pa., divides her time between teaching printmaking at the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts and summers teaching painting in Michigan. She will explore the Leelanau Peninsula in depth and develop a body of work of this area. Oct. 15-18 — Watercolor Workshop with nationally renowned Minnesota artist Andy Evansen. This class will offer some initial studio instruction followed by three days of plein air painting. Classes will be held at The Homestead Resort. Oct. 25 — 7:30 p.m.: Artist-inresidence Elizabeth Buzzelli of Mancelona plans to use her residency to concentrate on her new novel, “The Gathering.” This new book will join five previously published works, including “Dead Dogs and Englishmen,” chosen as one of the best novels of 2011 by Kirkus Reviews.
Leelanau Color Tour 2012
Be a part of the ‘reading’ play If you want to get involved first-hand in the arts, try signing up for an acting part that won’t require you to be on stage. The Glen Arbor Art Association Readers Theater may offer just the ticket. The play will center around actors who sit on stools in the front of the room and read from a script. There are no costumes, no blocking or stage direction and no props. “They convey the character by the voice and the upper body movements,” said Mason Query, art association member who will help direct the upcoming production of “The Thirty-nine Steps,” a mystery adapted from
the novel by John Buchan and the 1935 film by Alfred Hitchcock. The script that will be used is from a radio adaptation of the story. “The main thing is they don’t have to memorize their lines,” Query said. Auditions for the five male and five female parts will be held on Sept. 26 at the art association building in Glen Arbor. There are six to eight two-hourlong rehearsals held once a week from Oct. 10 through Nov. 30, with two performances planned for Dec. 1 and 2. It will be the second Readers Theater for the GAAA, brought back by popular demand. The
Nov. 8 — 7:30 p.m.: Artist-inresidence Susan Tusa, a photojournalist from Detroit, will come to her “favorite place in the world” to record the landscape as late fall transitions to winter. An environmentalist with a degree in cultural anthropology, Tusa is a staff photographer with the Detroit Free Press.
Capture the beauty of diverse plant and wildflower species. Take charge of your camera controls and exposure while improving your photographic composition skills.
LEELANAU COMMUNITY CULTURAL ASSOCIATION Oct. 5 and 6 — 12th annual Fiber Festival featuring artists with original wearable art, tapestry and handbags, weaving, quilts, sculpture and more. Friday 5-8 p.m.; Saturday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Featured artist will be Linda Kustra of Traverse City. The event takes place at the Old Art Building in Leland. SLEEPING BEAR DUNES NATIONAL LAKESHORE Oct. 15, 3-5 p.m.; Oct. 16, 9 a.m.-5 p.m.; Oct. 17, 9 a.m.-12 noon — Autumn Dunes Eco-Photo Tour: Join naturalist photographer Mark S. Carlson and digital photography expert Bob Grzesiak on a three-day Eco-Photo Tour to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. Experience majestic dunes, water, islands, orchards and historic farms. Travel to freshwater lakes, streams and wetlands.
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first performance attracted a standing-room-only audience, Query said. And there will be more in the future, she said. The GAAA created and sponsors the Readers Theater to round out its offering in the arts. The association has steadily provided a diet of painting, music and writing programs for the community. “The one thing that was missing was the theater,” said Query, who became a permanent resident of Glen Arbor about two years ago. Getting involved in the project helped her to get to know people in the area, and especially in the association, she said. All photographers are welcome from the digital snap-shooter to the advanced amateur. Tuition: $679 per person, per tour.
A "must see" collection of original art and fine crafts by 90 of Michigan's finest artists. We have color! Open Daily 10-5 • Sunday 11-4 thru October.
M-109 • Glen Arbor • 231-334-4732
www.synchronicitygallery.com
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f a l l
f i n a l e
For new prescriptions, refills and knowledgeable advice, our pharmacy counter is the solution. We also stock a quality assortment of over-the-counter medications, vitamins and herbal supplements to help you stay healthy.
Great Cards • Gifts • Candles Cosmetics & More
BAY SHORE PHARMACY 93A Fourth Street • Suttons Bay
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(231) 271-6111
FRIDAY, OCTOBER 19 Resale & Consignment
5 TO 9 PM DOWNTOWN SUTTONS BAY
Great stuff Great price Great fun
AWARD-WINNING ARTISTS & LEELANAU COUNTY WINES
Clothing - Furniture - Antiques
Visit participating shops, meet award-winning local artists, sample Leelanau County wines, receive a stamp and enter to win a $250 Village Shopping Spree!
Between Leland & Suttons Bay
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Daily 10–5 • Sun 12–4
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Lake Leelanau 256-0177
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Leelanau Color Tour 2012
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8-30-12
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NOW OPEN! Leelanau County’s Newest Corn Maze At Gill’s Pier Vineyard And Winery
The Corn Maz e a t Gi ll’s Pi er i s Loca ted a t G ill’s Pi er V in eya rd a nd Win ery , 5620 N. Ma ni tou Trai l (M -22) Ca ll 231. 632. COR N ( 2676) fo r d etai ls on hou rs a nd ad mission p ric es
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We invite you to visit our family-friendly destination. You can spend as much time as you like at the facility, go at your own pace, and enjoy the weather. Challenge yourself by navigating the two miles of paths in the maze in pursuit of 10 checkpoints. In October, there will be a flashlight night maze and a haunted maze on Halloween weekend. Visit www.gillspier.com for more information on the corn maze and winery events. General Admission is $6 for everyone 3 and over; free for children 2 and under. Group rates are available for any group 15 and larger (prearranged and by appointment). Beverages & flashlights for sale. HOURS: SEPTEMBER: 7 days a week, 11am -6pm (last entry at 5pm) OCTOBER: Sunday – Thursday 11am -6pm, Friday and Saturday 11am – 10pm (last entry 1 hour before close)
Harvest
A-B-G’s Autumn is a busy and exciting time for Leelanau’s wineries. Tasting rooms swell with thousands of wine enthusiasts who flock to the area for views of northern Michigan’s glorious colors — as well as an opportunity to sip and savor a multitude of award winning wine selections. But the real bustle is behind the scenes in the vineyards. September and October mark harvest time, when tons of grapes are picked and crushed to make those fabulous vintages you enjoy. If you’ve always wondered what exactly a wine grape harvest entails, we asked two local vineyard owners, Ryan Sterkenburg of Gills Pier and Paul Hamelin of Verterra, to answer questions about the harvest season you may have wanted to ask.
When are wine grapes harvested? Harvest varies based upon the seasonal conditions and the variety of grape, said Sterkenburg, who has 14 acres in wine grapes, both red and white. And while harvest usually begins sometime in September and ends as late as November, he added, “This year, we expect an early harvest because of the warm, dry spring and summer.”
Which grapes get ripe first? Hamelin, who planted his first crop of wine grapes in 2006 and grows nearly 20 red and white varieties on 33 acres of Leelanau
land, said that in general, white grapes mature first. So Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Gewurztraminer grapes are harvested early. “Rieslings mature Bel Lago ad stay on the vine slower so they Leelanau Enterprise longer,” Hamelin said. “And red grapes are even later.” 3.562” x 4.562” Finally, grapes for ice wines Color Tour ad 2012 are harvested, after staying on the vine long enough to produce highly concentrated sugars — ideal for dessert wine.
How can you tell the grapes are ripe? Checking wine grapes for perfect ripening is both art and science, said Hamelin. You need to use your senses to feel, smell, and taste the fruit. A ripe grape is plump and juicy, rich in color, and will crush easily. When tasted, it’s sweet but slightly tart, with a flavor true to the variety. In addition to the look, feel and taste of wine grapes, wine growers use science to test the fruit. The sugar content of the grape is measured with a refractometer, a small telescope-looking tool; acid and pH are also measured. “We take random samplings from different clusters of grapes throughout the vineyard every week — or even more often — from about September until harvest,” said Sterkenburg. The refractometer measures the “brix” or sugar content in the fruit, he explained. And while ideal brix measurement varies between grapes, in general, brix should be over 20.
Grapes bask in a harvest sun in the Boathouse Winery vineyard off Amore Road in Centerville Township.
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Wine Tasting on the Leelanau Peninsula
Hours
Open Daily 11-6 September & October
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By Linda Hepler Special to the Leelanau Color Tour
6530 S Lake Shore Dr, Cedar
(All ‘Bout Grapes)
231-228-4800 | bellago.com 25
Leelanau Color Tour 2012
-/ / Ê ,"7 Ê7 -
-/ / Ê ,"7 Ê7 -/ / Ê ,"7 Visit our Tasting RoomÊ7 at -/ / Ê ,"7 the Corner of Hilltop Road Ê7 and M-22 -
red
231.271.8888
Visit our Tasting Room at www.chateaudeleelanau.com Visit our Tasting Room at -/ / Ê ,"7 Ê7 Visit our Tasting Room at the Corner of Hilltop Road and M-22 thethe Corner Roadand andM-22 M-22 CornerofofHilltop Hilltop Road 231.271.8888 Visit231.271.8888 our Tasting Room at 231.271.8888 www.chateaudeleelanau.com the Corner of Hilltop Road and M-22 www.chateaudeleelanau.com www.chateaudeleelanau.com 231.271.8888 www.chateaudeleelanau.com
white
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rosé
COME TASTE OUR
FALL COLORS When our family entered the world of grape growing and wine making, we focused on one thing above all else — staying true to our land.
JOIN US DAILY
ON THE PATIO FOR SMALL PLATES,
Come in and enjoy our award winning Leelanau Peninsula wines!
& WINE BY THE GLASS
From vine to wine, truly Leelanau...
featuring
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WWW.VERTERRAWINERY.COM 103 RIVER – LELAND, MICHIGAN – 231.256.2115
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LIVE MUSIC SATURDAYS
Leelanau’s Gold Standard If you’re looking for the best wines in Michigan, you came to the right place. The Leelanau County 2012 grape harvest comes on the heels of an award-winning season based on the results of the Michigan Wine and Spirits Competition, which was judged in East Lansing in August. Leelanau County wines took four of six “best of class” honors in the state. The best of the best wines, and earning “double gold” medals, were: • Chateau Fontaine’s 2011 Pinot Blanc, dry white wine. • Blustone Vineyard’s 2011 Riesling. Blustone has just opened its tasting room on Sylt Road in Leland Township off M-204. • Shady Lane Cellars, 2010 Blue Franc, dry red class. • L. Mawby’s Blanc de Blanc, best sparking wine. Mawby also received the judge’s merit award for its Blanc de Noirs. • Chateau de Leelanau, cherry wine, fruit wine class. Leelanau vintners fared well throughout the competition. Following are more county medalists, as listed by category. • Dry White. Gold: Boathouse Vineyards 2011 Pinot Grigio; Brengman Brothers, 2010 Gary’s Reserve Gewurztraminer; Chateau Fontaine, 2011 White Riesling, Viognier and Woodland White; Forty-Five North, 2011 Pinot Gris; Silver: Black Star Farms, 2011 Arcturos Pinot Gris; Blustone, 2010 Chardonnay; Boathouse, 2011 Dry Riesling; Brengman Brothers, 2011 Dry Riesling and 2011 Gary’s Reserve Gewurztraminer; Chateau Fontaine, 2011 Pinot Gris; Circa Estate Winery, 2011 Chardonnay; Forty-Five North, 2011 Unwooded Chardonnay and Chardonnay; Verterra Winery, 2011 Dry Riesling and Dry Gewurztraminer; Bronze: Bel Lago, 2010 Chardonnay-Estate bottled; Black Star Farms, 2011 Arcturos Sur Lie Chardonnay; Blustone, 2011 Pinot Grigio;
Chateau de Leelanau, 2011 Pinot Grigio; Chateau Fontaine, 2011 Chardonnay and Gewurztraminer; Gill’s Pier Vineyard & Winery, 2011 Royce; Leelanau Cellars, 2011 Pinot Grigio; Shady Lane, 2011 Gewurztraminer; Verterra, 2011 Dry Riesling and 2011 Dry Gewurztraminer. • Semi-Dry White. Gold: Boathouse, 2011 Semi-Sweet Riesling; Silver: Black Star, 2010 Arcturos Riesling, 2011 Arcturos Dry Riesling; Brengmen Brothers, 2010 Riesling; Forty-Five North, 2011 45 White and 2011 Select Harvest Riesling; Gill’s Pier, Whitewater; Verterra, 2011 Chaos White Cuvee and 2011 Pinot Grigio; Bronze: Brengman Brothers, 2011 Riesling; Chateau Fontaine, 2010 White Riesling; Circa, 2011 Improvisation; Gill’s Pier, 2011 Riesling; Shady Lane, 2011 SemiDry Riesling; Verterra, 2011 Unoaked Chardonnay and 2011 Gewurztraminer medium Sweet; Willow Vineyard, 2011 Reserve Pinot Gris. • Sparkling wines. Gold: Black Star, 2011 BeDazzled; Good Harbor, Moonstruck; L. Mawby, Blanc de Blancs and Blanc de Noirs; Bel Lago, Leelanau Brillante; Black Star, 2008 Brut Sparkling Wine and 2009 Isidor’s Choice Blanc de Noir; Silver: L. Mawby, Conservancy, Cremant Classic, Jadore, Talismon, M. Lawrence, Green, Sandpiper; Bronze: Shady Lane, 2011 Sparkling Riesling. • Dry Red. Gold. Black Star, 2010 Leorie Vineyard Merlot Cabernet Franc; Forty-Five North, 2011 Cabernet Franc; Gill’s Pier, 2010 Cabernet Franc/Merlot; Shady Lane, 2010 Blue Franc Silver. Black Star Farms, 2010 Arcturos Pinot Noir, 2010 Arcturos Merlot and 2011 Pinot Noir; Blustone, 2010 Winemaker’s Red; Chateau de Leelanau, 2011 Hawkins Red Wine; Chateau Fontaine, 2010 Woodland Red; Gill’s Pier, Just Unleashed;
Boathouse Vineyard was one of many local wineries to shine at the Michigan Wine and Spirits Competition. Its Pinot Grigio brought home a gold medal in the dry white class, which was especially well received. Leelanau wineries earned four gold medals in the class, and Chateau Fountaine’s Pinot Blanc took the top honor. Longview Winery, 2010 Cabernet Franc-Estate Bottled; Shady Lane, 2010 Franc N’ Franc; Willow, 2011 Estate Bottled Pinot Noir; Bronze: Bel Lago, 2010 Pinot Noir Reserve; Black Star, 2010 Arcturos Cabernet Franc, 2010 Vintners Select; Blustone, 2010 Pinot Noir; Boathouse, 2011 Sunset; Chateau de Leelanau, 2011 Pinot Noir; Circa, 2008 Cabernet Franc; FortyFive North, 2011 Pinot Noir/Merlot. • Semi-Dry Red. Silver: Chateau Fontaine, Big Paw Red; Verterra, 2011 Chaos Red Cuvee; Bronze: Good Harbor Vineyards, Harbor Red. • Fruit Wines. Gold: Chateau de Leelanau, Cherry Wine; Silver: Bel Lago, Cherry; Brengman Brothers, Cherry; Bronze: Good Harbor, Cherry. • Rosé. Gold: Forty-Five North, 2011 Rose of Cabernet Franc;
Silver: Black Star Farms , 2011 Arcturos Cabernet Franc Rose; Boathouse, 2011 License to Chill Pinot Noir Rose; Longview, 2011 Rustic Rose-Estate Bottled; Verterra, 2011 Rose of Pinot Noir; Willow, “Pretty in Pink” Pinot Noir Rose; Bronze: Black Star, 2011 Arcturos Pinot Noir Rose; Blustone, 2011 Pinot Noir Rose; Brengman Brothers, 2011 Rose; Chateau Fontaine, 2011 Laughing Waters; Leelanau Cellars, 2011 Baco Noir Rose. • Dessert. Silver: Black Star, Sirius Red; Blustone, 2011 Late Harvest Riesling; Chateau de Leelanau, 2011 Riesling Select; Longview, Reserve PortSide Cherry Wine; Shady Lane, 2011 Late Harvest Riesling; Bronze: Bel Lago, 2010 Riesling- Estate Bottled; Black Star Farms, 2010 Arcturos Late Harvest Riesling.
County wines named “best of” in four of six classes. 27
Leelanau Color Tour 2012
Enjoy a glass of one of our award winning wines on our covered porch or at the water’s edge on the Narrows B oat ers w el come 9-20-12CT
M-204 at the bridge in the Village of Lake Leelanau
M-Sat 12-7pm • Sun 12-6pm
Call or check website for Oct. hours
256-7115
boathousevineyards.com
The Taste of Leelanau in Every Bottle.
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Leelanau Color Tour 2012
IN
110 Waukazoo St., Northport MI 231.386.1027 www.motovinocellars.com
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MOTOV
Start your tour here, in Northport, with free wine tastings. Five wines with exclusively Leelanau Peninsula fruit. Two blends with additional Northern Michigan fruit. 11-7 M-S; 12-6 Sunday.
OT
VINO
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Autumn Choices
By Linda Hepler Special to the Leelanau Color Tour
Autumn, with its crisp sunlit days, is a wonderful time to take a ride to marvel over the color show in progress. It’s also a great time to stop off at one or more of Leelanau’s many wineries. There, you’re sure to find at least one bottle of wine – and probably several others – that you just have to have to take home and drink. But while wine preference is a personal choice, it’s interesting to speculate about which of their wines the proprietors themselves prefer. Sweet or dry, red or white? “True wine people appreciate many kinds of wines, both whites and reds,” said John Crampton, owner with his wife, Jo, of Willow Vineyard, established in 1992 and located south of Suttons Bay. If you aren’t yet a wine aficionado, a good place to start is with a white wine such as Willow’s Chardonnay. Using grapes grown on a drop-dead gorgeous site over-
looking West Grand Traverse Bay that warms to allow for maximal fruit ripening, Chardonnay grapes are oaked in French barrels for a short time to impart the right balance of oak and fruit. The wine is just the ticket for your sipping pleasure on an autumn day. Crampton recommends a glass of Pinot Noir Rosé for warm weather savoring. Made of the same grapes as sister wine Pinot Noir, Crampton said he pulls the juice off after only a few days of barrel fermenting to give the wine a pleasant coloration. And if you’ve only tasted those sickly sweet Rosés in the past, you’re in for a treat with Willow’s Rosé. “We keep it on the dry side,” he said. For chilly fall days, Crampton favors Pinot Noir, which he said can be hard to vinify (or make into wine through the process of fermentation). “Pinot Noir is such a wonderful wine when made right; if you do it right, you’re on top of the (Continued on Page 30)
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Some picks from the creators of county wines.
Vintner Paul Hamelin’s wine choice depends on food, and he has a variety of suggestions — even for pizza. 29
Leelanau Color Tour 2012
So much color, so many wine choices (Continued from Page 29) world.” Willow’s Pinot Noir has hints of cherry, strawberry, and sometimes raspberry, added Crampton. If you’ve tasted enough wine to know you like blends, Gills Pier Vineyard and Winery in Northport is a place to taste combinations of grapes. Founded by Ryan and Kris Sterkenburg in 2002, it sits near what was once a Bohemian logging settlement dubbed Gills Pier. Ryan, whom you’ll always see sporting a bow tie — he has about 80 of them — said that Gills Pier is the only place with a blend of German grapes (Regent, Dornfelder, and Frontenac) in his “Just Unleashed.” An off-dry wine with aromas of roasted coffee and earthy tobacco, Sterkenburg adds: “This wine is a good introduction into a red.” He also blends two popular red grapes, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, into a nice dry wine. “We age it in French oak for 18 months to give it a mild, toasty oak flavor. French
oak is milder than American oak and brings out great characteristics in the grapes,” he added. As for a white pick, Sterkenburg enjoys Royce, a dry, lightly oaked blend of Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc grapes. “We sometimes add Chardonnay or other fruit to change up the taste,” he said. Verterra Winery, one of the newer offerings, has many awardwinning selections in red and white wines but is a great place to go for fruity and floral flavors. Paul Hamelin, owner along with his wife, Marty, and sister and brotherin-law Lynn and Skip Telgard, said Verterra’s Gewurztraminer is one of his favorite white wines. It has a characteristic floral aroma and flavor. “Gewurztraminer can be made in different styles; we have both a dry and a medium sweet style. Both of them pair well with spicy foods, such as Indian food.” Another of Hamelin’s picks in white is Verterra’s Pinot Blanc, a
Willow Vineyards proprietor John Crampton has looked over this beautiful view since 1992. grape that he said expresses tropical fruit flavors and aromas, such as banana, melon, and pineapple. As for reds, Hamelin’s fruity pick is table wine “Chaos Red Cuvee.” “Cuvee means ‘blend’ in French,” said Hamelin. Chaos is a fruit forward blend of four red grapes: Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, and Chambourcin.” Medium dry, the wine pairs nicely with pizza, burgers, or even a light
pasta, added Hamelin. Eager to try some of Leelanau County’s finest? You can sip and savor wines in one of the almost two dozen wineries scattered throughout the peninsula, most of which are open for tasting through October. Wine trail maps are available at tourist centers and stores throughout the region or at www.lpwines.com
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The popularity of Leelanau’s wines has exploded in the last decade. Some 275 acres were planted in grapes in 2000, compared to 680 in a 2012 survey. The Leelanau Peninsula Vintner Association now counts 20 members.
Leelanau Color Tour 2012
Five course dinners offered at the Inn the second Wednesday of each month
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231.944.1251 BlackStarFarms.com
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HARVEST DINNER SERIES
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A-B-G’s
The Harvest Stompede, which attracts more than 800 runners and walkers to county vineyards, was held Sept. 8-9. This photo was taken from the 2011 event, which is sponsored by the Leelanau Peninsula Vintner Association.
(Continued from Page 25)
What conditions can damage a harvest? Vineyard people are praying for dry weather to bring the grapes home, said Hamelin. “Wet weather conditions can cause mildew and rot on the grapes and ruin the fruit.” Critters, such as deer and racoons, can also cause loss of grapes. And while electric fencing and scented sprays — or even dryer sheets — discourage the four legged predators, birds are more difficult to discourage. “We use sound control for the birds,” said Sterkenburg. “There are different settings of distress calls that scare the birds away. It’s pretty eerie when it goes off.” Hamelin stressed that sound systems need to be in place well before the fruit ripens. “Once the grapes are ripe, the critter’s appetite lessens the fear.”
Are grapes harvested by machine?
While some vineyards use mechanical harvesting, most vineyards in Leelanau are hand-harvested by teams of grape pickers, said Sterkenburg. “The machines are really expensive,” he explained. “You really need 50 or more acres in grapes to make it cost-effective.” In addition to cost consider-
How long are grapes stored prior to being made into wine?
ation, many local wine growers believe that it’s better for the fruit to be handled gently at harvest time. “ A machine bangs away at grapes,” said Sterkenburg. “We want the skin to be intact on the fruit to protect it.” Breaking the skins of the grapes can cause change in color and aromatic qualities as well as potential bacterial growth, he said.
Both Hamelin and Sterkenburg said that it’s important to get harvested grapes immediately to processing, where they are destemmed and gently split so the juice starts to flow. And then? Let the wine-making begin!
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Leelanau Color Tour 2012
Quantity will get you Quality Professional photographers encourage snapping shots of the peninsula by any means necessary. Whether shooting landscapes, portraits or anything in between, don’t be intimidated by the pomp and circumstance of professional photography. Instead, know that practice makes perfect, they suggest. And picking the right time of day — and day to venture out — helps. “Light, and of course color, but color without light can be pretty bland,” said Becky Ross of Flying Still Photography when asked what the key element of a fall photograph is. “It is the light that makes an image pop.” Ross and her husband, Bill, a pilot, produce aerial view photographs shot all over the county and across the United States. There are no hard and fast rules for the art of photography. It is not an exact art, nor should one feel intimidated. “I don’t think there are any rules to what makes a good photograph,” said Cara Spinniken of Cara
Spinniken Photography. “If you like it, shoot it.” “Always consider the light,” Ross continued. “You can always find something when the light is interesting.” Spinniken agrees that lighting is the most important element of a fall photograph. “Colorful trees are a must during the fall,” Spinniken continued. “Fall is such a perfect time to shoot because of the beautiful coloring.” Spinniken especially enjoys shooting portraits in Fishtown. “The buildings in Fishtown are so unique and have such interesting details and texture,” she said. “It makes for really interesting photos.” Professional and amateur photographers alike can take a beautiful fall photo. To bridge the gap, rethink a classic shot and add a new element. “The brilliant color leaves with the bright blue sky (is sometimes overdone), but really it is hard to get too much of that,” Ross continued. “To revamp, put in a face or an animal.” Spinniken is a portrait photographer, focusing on wedding and engagement photos. Her subjects are oftentimes different than a traditional fall photo. “Something that I think is overdone is overposed photos,” she said. “I try to make the couple feel comfortable so the photo feels as natural and candid as possible and their personality can really show through. “An easy way for me to revamp old places is with all the new couples I shoot. Each session is different because I deal with such a variety of personalities. So even if I do 100 shoots at the same
place, none of them will be the same. That’s one of my favorite things about photographing people. It always seems new.” Amateur photographers often hold back in terms of digital enhancement, as well. New technologies have made it easy for everyone to make their photos better — but it’s generally not necessary. “I sometimes push a photo to increase contrast, but I don’t do that much,” Ross said. She sometimes shoots out of focus as well so that her final image looks like a painting, a practice she admits isn’t for everyone. Spinniken says that understanding the process of post-shoot digital modification isn’t as important as understanding your camera in the first place. “Learn about your camera and read the manual,” she said matter-of-factly. “Point and shoots have so many settings for all kinds of different situations. Portrait, landscape, action, night, et cetera. Play around with all of them and see what they do, even if you don’t have anything exciting to photograph. That way when you do have something good to take photos of, you’ll know what settings you like and what will work for that situation.” When all is said and done, little stands in the way of taking beautiful fall color shots. “Go out as often as you can,” Spinniken said. “You can learn so many new things each time you take your camera out. That’s one of the best things about digital photography — its basically free to practice.” — By Erin Bernhard
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Birds, though quiet,
fill the fall
By Corey Frost Special to the Leelanau Color Tour
This time of year, many species of birds pack their bags and head south on their way to warmer days. So what can someone wanting to view birds look forward to in the fall months? Forget about the shorebirds, many of them are already gone. According to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore biological technician Lee Bragg, shorebirds are some of the first birds to leave the area. Sandpipers are on their way to South America and the Gulf Coast. Piping plovers may already be on beaches in Florida, Texas and Marco Island. Kay Charter, executive director of Saving Birds Thru Habitat based in Omena, said viewing birds in the fall can be fun — and a challenge. “The hardest part about looking for birds in the fall is they’re no longer singing as much,” said Charter, a birder of about 30 years. “Singing is about reproduction and we’re beyond that for birds.” According to Charter, many beautiful species stick around into the fall. And still others pass through, stopping to forage before heading farther south. “There are a few warblers left such as the yellow warbler,” Charter explained. “You’ll be able to see common yellowthroats and American redstarts for a little longer as well.” Eastern Bluebirds are another species that can be seen as they make their way to Southern states and parts of Central America. Migrating through October, these social birds often scout nesting sites for the following spring on their way through. Thrushes and sparrows are other types of birds that will be available for viewing through parts of fall. Brown thrushes may be mostly gone by early October, but the hermit thrush will stick around until the
beginning of November. Both birds prefer areas with low, tight cover and are often viewed in shrubby, brushy areas. Feeding won’t hold them back. According to Charter, many folk bring their feeders in after Labor Day in fear that an available food source will keep birds from migrating. Charter said that’s not true. “Songbirds operate by the amount of available light,” she said. “They have a kind of internal clock that tells them, ‘We’re losing our sunlight,’ and that’s what urges them to migrate.” In contrast, ducks are pushed by weather rather than the ability to sense changing amounts of sunlight. Charter explained that many species won’t begin to head out until October. Those to look for are what Charter referred to as “puddle ducks” that stay in ponds and dunk their heads underwater to feed. Green and bluewinged teals, as well as Charter’s favorite, the bufflehead duck, are among those that can be seen. Goldeneyes and scoters can also be viewed. These ducks tend to stay in larger, open bodies of water such as bays and dive below the surface to eat. And other birds never leave in winter, such as chickadees, titmice, gold finches, cardinals and some woodpeckers. “Chickadees are especially interesting because they cache seeds for food,” Charter said. “They can hide up to 2,000 seeds in the fall and recall where to find nearly all of them. “I can’t always find my car keys.” Though bird watching may not be as easy — or loud — in the fall as it is during springtime, Charter said there are ample beautiful and interesting species out there. “Birds are amazing,” Charter said. “I think the people who take the time to look this fall will be quite surprised with some of the things they might see.”
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U.S. Air Force Band of Flight Concert Band Tuesday, November 6
Yellow Warbler
Bluebird
Fred Garbo’s Inflatable Theater Co. Saturday, November 10
White-throated sparrow 33
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Leelanau’s fall bird lineup
Leelanau Color Tour 2012
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Scenic Fall Foliage Drift Boat Trips If you’re looking for a nice trip to get away from everything, take a break and relax, then this is the trip for you. One of our guides will row you along the beautiful, serene Manistee River. These trips are available in full and half-day options. The full day is usually 6-8 hours and the half-day is 4-6 hours on the river. You will experience breathtaking views for only $375 for the full day and $250 for the half. This includes a shoreside lunch for the full day trip and snacks and beverages on the half-day. While enjoying being rowed along the shoreline you will have many wildlife opportunities. There are many white-tailed deer inhabiting the Pere Marquette State Forest. You may be lucky enough to see a deer drinking along the shoreline or better yet, one swimming across. There are also river otters and a multitude of other wildlife that we see along the Manistee. Local Bald Eagle are a nice addition that we sometimes are blessed to see. And if you get there on the right day you will probably see dozens of ducks. There are mallards and wood ducks, which are two of the most beautiful birds in the area.
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9-20-12 CT
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Leelanau Color Tour 2012
36
Leelanau fruit:
Weather or not While farm markets and cider mills downstate are scrambling for fruit to fill their bins, vendors at Leelanau’s longest-running farmer’s market in Suttons Bay are sure to have an ample supply of the county’s “other” fruit. The market, located at North Park overlooking the bay just north of the village, will be open Saturday’s from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. through Oct. 27. Harvest of early varieties such as McIntosh and GingerGold began last month, as many as two weeks ahead of schedule. That means other varieties that are found later in the season will also be available earlier than usual. A more-than two inch rainfall deficit had growers hoping for showers to help “size” the seasonal globes of deliciousness as part of Leelanau County went up to four weeks leading into Labor Day with only about 1/4-inch of rain. You can blame Lake Michigan, which weakened the series of thunderstorms coming from Wisconsin that drenched other parts of Michigan. Of course, it was that same big lake that shielded the apple crop from the worst of spring frosts to allow for any apple crop. Apples bloom 1-3 weeks after cherries, on average. The predominant thought among growers is that they are happy to have apples to harvest. “They are smaller than usual, but we feel lucky to have apples in northwest Michigan,” Rothwell said. Gregory agreed. “The market is strong for them.” Meanwhile, as bad as Leelanau’s cherry crop was this year, 2012 is shaping up to be a big year for county wineries. The same sunny skies and heat that had visitors flocking to the peninsula’s hundreds of miles of beach this summer also makes for great grapes. Heat increases the sugar content of the fruit, improving its quality.
As for apples growing on empty farmsteads in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, feel free to pick ‘em. Apples in Leelanau County fared better than most of Michigan. And Leelanau struggles in some years to provide a long enough growing season for grapes to fully mature. “We’re about to have the biggest
Fickle year for weather knocks out cherries, spares many apples and embraces grapes
37
harvest we’ve ever had,” said Doug Matthies, whose family owns Chateau Fontaine near Lake Leelanau.
Enjoy authentic French country dining in Northern Michigan
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231-334 -3944 Reservations are appreciated; walk-ins are welcome.
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The 2012 growing season will go down in history as one of extremes. Most fruits grown in Leelanau County suffered; one that has become essential to county tourism did not. Late winter warmth brought on premature cherry blossoms, which started stirring and swelling in March about six weeks ahead of schedule. Seasonal frosts wiped out virtually all of the tarts, and most of the sweet cherry crop. Also lost to frosts were most of the peach and pear crops. However, many of those same county fruit growers who had no cherries to harvest may benefit from weather that decimated the apple crop elsewhere in the state, but left many local orchards with well more than half a crop. “The good news for our growers and apple lovers is that we have some and there aren’t many elsewhere in the state,” said Nikki Rothwell, director of the Northwest Michigan Horticultural Research Station in Bingham Township. According to the Michigan Apple Committee, the state apple industry is experiencing its largest crop loss since the 1940s. Growers, shippers and other experts from across the state predict a crop size of about three million bushels, a significant loss compared to the average crop size of 20 to 23 million bushels. “They’re estimating about a 10 percent crop overall,” Rothwell said. Locally, growers say the size of the crop appears to be site and variety specific — but at least there are some apples from which to choose. “Our Honeycrisps have a decent crop but the other varieties are all over the board,” said Bob Gregory, whose Cherry Bay Orchards has been moving away from processing apples to fresh varieties such as Honeycrisps, Gala and Sweet Tango. “It should help us a lot with our cash flow.”
La Be´casse is located in Burdickville at the corner of CR 675 (South Dunn’s Farm Road) & CR 616 (Burdickville Road)
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Leelanau Color Tour 2012
Revealing the work of Spys By Linda Hepler Special to the Leelanau Color Tour
Tina Baker suggests a variety of ways to turn apples into dessert.
Gene Peyerk offers up his secret to a good, apple pie.
contrasting blend of flavors. Her pick for apple pie: Northern Spy and Ida Red. Gene Peyerk, owner of Leelanau Pie and Pastry in Lake Leelanau, agrees on apple selection. Spy apples are best for baking. He even let out his secret to a good apple pie. “I don’t just use cane sugar. I mix it with brown sugar. That gives it a deeper flavor,” he said. Even among apple pies, there are choices. Peyerk said his traditional apple pies sell a little better than apple crumb pies with streusel stopping — but not by many. If you want a real treat in searching for a great baking apple, head a few miles north of Northport to John and Phyllis Kilcherman’s Christmas Cove (Continued on Page 40)
While our bakers suggest Spys for the oven, Northport’s Kilchermans can put variety into your pie baking. Leelanau Color Tour 2012
38
L featuring premier baked goods by Chef Gene Peyerk. Gene was trained by a French Pastry Chef from Nice, France, and also holds a culinary degree.
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Chicken or Beef Pot Pies • Quiches Breads • Pasties French Pastries • Cookies • Croissants Cinnamon Rolls • Scones • Muffins
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Lake Leelanau Corner of Eagle Hwy. & M-204
9-20-12CT
No doubt about it, Leelanau’s colorful leaves create spectacular autumn moments in northern Michigan. Adding to the “oohs” and “aahs” is the array of colorful fruits and vegetables adorning the fields and trees throughout the county and available at farmers markets and roadside stands everywhere you go. But of all the seasonal bounty — and with an apology to the round-faced pumpkin — nothing says fall quite like an apple. They’re great to eat, and may be even better to bake. We went to a couple county experts for their thoughts on turning a healthy fruit into a delicious, fall dessert. Apples are more popular than ever, and one of the best ways to use them is in baked goods such apple pie, said Tina Baker, owner (with partner Vic Chimoski) of Chimoski’s Bakery in Suttons Bay. “Apple pie is comfort food. Apple pie is fall,” she said. But there is much more you can do with apples besides make pie, according to Baker, who has owned the bakery, a lifelong dream, for a year now. “We make apple turnovers, caramel apple rolls with apple pie filling in the middle and caramel drizzled on top, apple oatmeal cookies, and fresh apple cake,” she said. How to choose an apple for baking? According to Baker, it’s a matter of personal taste, what’s available, and “what holds up.” That is, an apple that holds its shape during cooking gives texture to the dish. This is especially true for a dessert like baked apples, a dish in which Baker uses Northern Spy apples. The secret to good flavor, she believes, is to use a mix that gives you a
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231 -326-5249 Leelanau Color Tour 2012
Apple trees planted by settlers still growing fruit By Jim Brinkman Special to the Leelanau Color Tour
What’s more American than apple pie? Probably nothing, and this country is the world’s largest producer of the popular fruit. Although overshadowed in Leelanau County by cherries, and, in more recent years, by grapes and wine, apples remain an important fruit crop in Leelanau. Apples were hit by this spring’s fluky weather. “We’ve only got about 10 percent of our usual crop this year,” says Tom Brodhagen, owner, with his wife Kathy, of Maple Ridge Orchard, just south of Empire. “But at least what we do have is good,” he said, adding that apple orchards, such as those in Oceana County, were totally wiped out. Leelanau’s earliest white settlers planted orchards and apples on North and South Manitou islands,
which were farmed earlier than most of the rest of the county. The Port Oneida area, when developed, also proved popular for apple trees — and many of those trees planted by farmers to supplement their crops are still bearing fruit. The National Park Service holds workshops in the spring during which volunteers are taught the proper way to prune the ancient trees to extend their lives. Some trees planted on Beaver Island in that same era still bear fruit, according to Brodhagen, but the apples “taste like cork.” Brodhagen, who has been growing apples for nearly 20 years as a “retirement” project, knows his apples, and offers 32 varieties for customers. Most end up as fresh “table fruit,” but others are turned into pies, sauces, cider and other dishes. Those that fall to the ground before they are picked or are otherwise damaged end up as “deer
apples” for hunters. Early and late varieties stretch out picking through the month of October, although Brodhagen notes that everything seems “about three weeks” early this year. Two rare apple varieties grown at Maple Ridge are the Braeburn, which some once thought couldn’t be grown this far north, and the Gravenstein, which is popular in Europe. “The Gravenstein is a German apple which is picked in the ‘green phase,’” says Brodhagen. “It is prized for use in pies.” Other, more familiar, apples grown at Maple Ridge include Paula Reds and Jersey MacIntoshes. The latter is a “slightly tart,” early fall apple, which is good for sauce and pies. Brodhagen enjoys personally marketing his apples at the Farmers” Market in Traverse City, where he has his own following of loyal and enthusiastic customers. Some may
even be seen re-filling their own “Maple Ridge” tote bag, which are sold for $1. “If they want to return it, we’ll give them their money back — provided it is in reasonably good condition,” says Brodhagen. The “re-cycling” effort is reminiscent of glass bottles used by small dairies. Customers were typically charged 50 cents for a gallon bottle even 30 years ago. The Brodhagen’s have a fruit stand on Manning Road at Greystone Gardens off M-22. “We’re small enough (about 12 acres) to rely on feral bees for pollination,” says Brodhagen, who added that they plant flowers in the orchard to attract the bees. This year’s light crop has allowed Brodhagen to work a standard week of 30-40 hours. Though it’s not good economically, he has found the 2012 harvest relaxing. “It’s quite a contrast to six 16 hour days a week,” he says.
Leelanau’s roadside stands make it easy for travelers to fill up on pumpkins and apples. This stand is located south of Suttons Bay off M-22.
Revealing the work of Spys (Continued from Page 38) Farm, where you’ll find apple varieties you’ve never heard of before. They include Rambo, Newton Pippin and Detroit Red. Each apple variety is labeled with name, origin, taste description, and suggestions for use. The Kilchermans bought the
Leelanau Color Tour 2012
farm that John had grown up on in 1955, and began their business as a strawberry farm. But over the years John, who remembered many of the apple trees that he used as bases playing baseball in the orchard as a boy, began to grow and evaluate different varieties of heirloom apples. “We were used to grocery store apples at the time,” Phyllis
said. “And some of the ones we began growing looked funny but had flavor way better than you can buy in the store.” Today, the Kilchermans grow 240 varieties of apples, many of them heirloom. Phyllis’ picks for baking – “I like the Wolf River apple to make baked apples,” she said. “This apple dates back to the
40
1800s; it was first found by the Wolf River in Wisconsin. When you bake it, it puffs up like popcorn.” An outstanding heirloom apple for baking into desserts like pies, said Phyllis, is Duchess of Oldenburg, an early season apple which originates from Russia in the 18th century. Also favored are Wealthy and Banana Apples.
PAINTINGS BY KIRK
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MARK E. KOHLER
8-20-12CT 9-16-10CT 9-20-12CT
JOHN R. KINKER
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www.gabesmarket.com • sales@gabesmarket.com 41
Leelanau Color Tour 2012
www.leelanau.cc
County Governm lanau ent e e L C e n y t t i e n r u W ebsit mm e & Co • Access county, township and village plans & ordinances • Access permit applications, forms & documents • Search the County’s Tax Database • Locate and print maps, aerials, and other mapping data
231-334-3754 www.artsglenarbor.com 6487 Western Ave. · Glen Arbor
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Created in 2002, supported by the Leelanau County Board of Commissioners, participating agencies, and the community.
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Our products are always made by hand, using traditional techniques and time honored recipes. At Candy World we specialize in making delicious memories that keep our customers coming back again & again!
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• Locate information on services, events, history, demographics, and more.
231-271-CAFE (2233) • Suttons Bay
Jam’n with apples
Leelanau recipe took blue ribbon at the Northwestern Michigan Fair Armanda Krantz of Suttons Bay has been making jams all of her life. And several years ago, she had considered converting an extra room in her house to a commercial kitchen in order to make and sell her jams from home. But in 2010, Michigan’s Cottage Food Law took effect. The revision of the Michigan Food Law of 2000 exempts a “cottage food operation” from the licensing and inspection provisions of the Michigan Food Law. Under the Cottage Food Law, non-potentially hazardous foods that do not require time and/or temperature for safety can be produced in a person’s home kitchen and sold directly to consumers at farmers markets, roadside stands, or other direct markets. So Armanda was in business, selling her jams at the Suttons Bay farmers market on Saturday mornings under the name “Armanda’s Cellar.” A very popular fall jam one she makes for gifts: apple pie jam. “It tastes just like an apple pie,” she said. “I found it in Taste of Home Magazine; I changed the apples from
Golden Delicious to Gala and Granny Smith.” Just this summer, Armanda’s Apple Pie Jam won a blue ribbon at the Northwestern Michigan Fair. “I was really proud,” she said.
APPLE PIE JAM from Armanda Krantz
Ingredients: 4 to 5 large apples (try a combination of Gala and Granny Smith) 1 cup water 5 cups sugar ½ teaspoon butter 1 pouch (3 ounces) liquid pectin 1 ½ teaspoons ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg ¼ teaspoon ground mace, optional Directions: In a dutch oven, combine apples and water. Cover and cook slowly until tender. Remove
apple mixture from pan. Measure 4 ½ cups apples, return to the pan (save remaining apple mixture for another use or discard). Add sugar and butter to pan; bring to a full rolling boil, stirring constantly. Quickly stir in pectin, return to a full rolling boil. Boil 1 minute, stirring constantly. Remove from heat; skim off foam. Stir in spices. Carefully ladle hot mixture into hot half-pint jars, leaving ¼ inch head space. Remove air bubbles; wipe rims and adjust lids. Process for 10 minutes in a boiling water canner.
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On Little Glen Lake, Between Empire and Glen Arbor
Aurora Bora Bear! Sterling Silver & Leland Blue Stone
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Leelanau Color Tour 2012
Featuring housesmoked ribs, pulled Featuring Featuringhousehousepork, local smoked smokedfresh ribs, ribs,pulled pulled fish, salads pork, steaks, fresh freshlocal local fish, steaks, steaks, salads salads and burgers. Open andyear burgers. burgers. Open OpenWe all ’round. all year year ’round. ’round.We We cater! cater! cater!
“Leland’s From-Scratch Bakery” “Leland’s From-Scratch Bakery” Compliment your color tour
Compliment your color tour Compliment your color tour with Sissonís, withtreats treats from from Sisson's, An array of coffees Soups withAntreats from -Sissonís, array of Coffees Soups Spiced Cider Pumpkin Cookies Spiced Cider - coffees Pumpkin Cookies An array ofSeasonal - Soups Ginger Cookies, Shortbreads! Ginger Cookies, Seasonal Shortbreads! Spiced - Pumpkin OurCider Sandwiches served on Cookies our Our Sandwiches served on ourStyle Herbal Bread - Available Panini Ginger Cookies, Seasonal Shortbreads! Herbal Bread - Available Panini Style
AnAn array of Salads with local localproduce produce array of Salads with Our Sandwiches served on our Open Mon - Sat 7am-3pm www.sissonsmainstreet.net Herbal Bread - Available Panini Style Open Mon - Sat 7am-3pm 203 www.sissonsmainstreet.net North Main Street (M-22), Leland 231.256.9201 Free 877.284.3466 An array203of Salads with local North MainToll Street (M-22), Leland produce
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Fischer’s Happy Hour Tavern A third generation family restaurant presenting a casual yet well rounded menu in a quaint old tavern atmosphere.
Featuring housesmoked ribs, pul ed Explore & Enjoy!
Serving you year round for 40 years.
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A Color Tour Dining Destination!
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RED MULLEIN
The Depot at the Northport Marina 11:00-4:30 except Monday
Located halfway between Northport & Leland on M-22
Leelanau Color Tour 2012
Graphic & fiber arts Great artisan jewelry Noritake porcelain Roseville pottery
44
231-38 108 Wa North
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Sisson’s Main Sisson’s Main Street Street Specialties Specialties
Open Mon - Sat 7am-3pm
Featur smoke pork, f fish, st and bu all yea cater!
Taking Leelanau’s fall bounty from trees to your oven Ready to try your hand at baking with apples? We’ve got some recipes, starting with:
Fresh Apple Cake By Tina Baker Ingredients: 2 cups brown sugar ½ cup soft butter 1 egg 1 teaspoon vanilla 2 cups all purpose flour 2 teaspoons cinnamon, plus cinnamon/sugar mixture for topping 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 cup sour cream 2 cups peeled and chopped apples (Northern Spy, Ida Red or your favorite baking apple) Directions: Cream butter and brown sugar, add egg and vanilla. In a separate bowl, mix flour, cinnamon
and baking soda. Add flour mixture and sour cream alternately into butter mixture. Fold in apples. Sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar topping. Bake in 9x13 pan at 350 degrees for 35 minutes. We took the liberty of pulling some favorites suggested by the Michigan Apple Committee, including an award winner:
Yankee Spy Apple Pie By Dan Beck of Flint, MI
2012 winner, Michigan Apple Committee’s Michigan’s Best Apple Pie Contest Crust: 1 cup shortening 3 cups flour 1 tsp. salt 1/2 cup ICE cold water
local friendly
cent fitness
er with a relaxed
Crust Directions: Cut shortening into flour and salt, until particles are the size of small peas. Sprinkle with water, 1 tablespoon at a time, tossing with fork until flour is moistened and pastry cleans sides of bowl. Add additional water if necessary. Divide dough in half. Roll to size. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Filling Directions: Combine ingredients and add to pie shell. Top with dough and crimp sides. Moisten top of pie and sprinkle with sugar. Bake at 350 degrees for 1 1/4 hours. Cover with pie shield after 15 minutes.
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Filling: 6 large Michigan Northern Spy apples, peeled and sliced 1 cup Pioneer Sugar (Michigan made) 1-2 tbsp. cinnamon 1/3 cup flour
231-946-6500 • www.diversionshats.com 45
Leelanau Color Tour 2012
Sausage Time
Time to put up the crops — and the meats. Two county men are up to the task. By Amy Hubbell Special to the Leelanau Color Tour
Fall is traditionally a time to harvest — and not just crops. It’s also a time to slaughter animals, and prepare their meat into tasty sausage, customized hot dogs and other delicacies that can be eaten on their own or become ingredients for tasty recipes year-round. We talked to two county men who take time each autumn to prepare a variety of meats.
Chef turned sausage maker
John Forton’s grandfather was a butcher in Suttons Bay, so sausage making could be hereditary.
(Continued on Page 47)
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Market & Deli
Jason Noonan takes the term “locivore,” or emphasizing locally made food, to its highest level when it comes to pigs. Noonan, 37, grew up on his parents farm in Kasson Township but never thought much of butchering his own meat until he went to culinary arts school at Johnson & Wales University in Boston eight years ago. “I started to think about where our meat came from and how it was processed,” said Noonan, who returned to the county in 2006. He is now known as chef for Funistrada, a widely acclaimed Italian restaurant in Burdickville. “I figured I could do a better job of it and I think we do that.” The farmer-turned-chef spoke with his father, Robert, and suggested that the family raise some
farm animals for its own consumption. “My favorite meat to work with is pork,” said Noonan, who expects to begin his fall meat processing in mid-October. Noonan’s father and brothers transformed part of an outbuilding in Kasson Township into a meat processing facility with everything needed to put up tasty chops, hams, bacon and sausage for the winter. There’s ample counter space, cutlery and a walk-in cooler in which to hang the meat. It’s like a family butcher shop — for one, big family. The Noonans have developed a routine for putting meat in the freezer each fall. First, belly and ham quarters are soaked in a brine solution and allowed to cure before being placed in the smokehouse. “We do the sausage one day and all the rest on a second day,” he said. Meat is refrigerated for at least two days before the sausage-making process begins. “When it’s in the cooler, it stiffens up and prevents it from getting too soft,” Noonan said. Mushy sausage makes for a difficult time getting the mixture into casings. After pork is ground, different spices are mixed in. This is the stage in which the magic happens: • Garlic, marjoram and black
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46
Local links to sausage making (Continued from Page 46) pepper for kielbasa. • Sweet Italian sausage is flavored with pepper, parsley, garlic, basil, paprika, oregano, thyme and brown sugar. • Hot sausage, forget the sugar and add some hot pepper flakes. • Want some pork sausage from south of the border? The Noonans have a recipe for chorizo, a Mexican sausage that traditionally includes chili peppers.
Butchering as a family trademark
John Forton of Suttons Bay didn’t grow up on a farm. But work as a meat cutter comes naturally to him. His grandfather, Louis Forton, owned a butcher shop on Lincoln Street in Suttons Bay in the 1950s. “I had three uncles who really took to it, but my dad never really got into butchering,” said Forton. It wasn’t until Forton, 51, returned to the county after his retirement from the Navy that he developed an interest in the craft. “I studied under my Uncle Louie (Louis Forton Jr.) for about a year before I felt confi-
Down-Home Sausage Gravy 1 (16 oz.) pkg. fresh breakfast sausage 2 Tbsp. chopped onion 6 Tbsp. all-purpose flour 2 (12 oz.) cans evaporated milk 1 cup water 1/4 tsp. salt Hot pepper to taste Hot biscuis
until sausage is no longer pink, stir in flour, mix well. Stir in evaporated milk, water, salt and hot pepper sauce. Cook, stirring until mixture comes to a boil. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Serve immediately over hot biscuits. Recipe from More Tasty Treasures, Immanuel Lutheran Church, Leland
Combine the sausage and onion. Brown dent to try it myself,” he said. When he built a garage, Forton knew he wanted room for meat processing. He planned ahead, and provided for running water and ample electricity. Both are vital to maintaining sanitary conditions needed to properly preserve meats. “The key is sanitation, sanitation, sanitation,” Forton said. Unlike Noonan, who restricts butchering and meat processing to fall, it’s a year-long occupation for Forton, an avid hunter and fisherman. “Salami, ring bologna, snack sticks … I make all that fine fare,” he said. Forton works with a lot of different meats: beef, pork, goat and of course venison. “At Christmastime I’ll spend about four days ‘cooking off’ a couple hundred pounds of meat
for gift baskets I give out around town.” Hotdogs? You bet. Forton uses a 50/50 mixture of venison and pork butts, which he purchases in bulk and freezes until he’s ready to use. He grinds the meat two times, seasons it and then stuffs the contents into 24 to 26 mm natural sheep casings. “I like to smoke them with sugar maple … low and slow, until they reach 160 to 165 degrees,” Forton explained. Then to ensure that the meat is cooked completely, he puts the stuffed casings into 180-degree water for about 15 minutes to eliminate any “cool” spots in the dog. Then he plunges the wieners into ice water. “That’s what makes them snap when you eat them,” Forton said.
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Leelanau Color Tour 2012
Safety first,
says captain, for fall ferrying By Eric Carlson Special to the Leelanau Color Tour
Operating a ferry from the Leelanau Peninsula mainland to the Manitou islands can present challenges any time of year. In the fall, however, weather can become hard to predict. And when fall weather turns rough, it can turn very rough indeed. For Captain Jimmy Munoz, who skippers Manitou Island Transit’s 62-foot ferry MisheMokwa, nothing is more important than the safety and comfort of his passengers. Conditions are often calm on Lake Michigan in the spring when the island visitor season begins, he explained. “And it’s different every summer,” Munoz said, “I’m not sure the wind ever blew in July this summer. Of course, conditions can get a little more challenging in the fall, and September can be a very windy month.” The ferry to South Manitou Island starts operating in May and begins daily runs on June 16 that continue through Labor Day. Trips to North Manitou Island, usually aboard the smaller ferry Manitou Isle, follow the same general pattern but on a slightly abbreviated schedule. In the fall, it’s always good to call ahead to see when the ferries are running, Munoz said. For most campers, the last time for a trip to the islands and back occurs on Columbus Day weekend, this year, Oct. 6-8. Manitou Island Transit also accommodates island deer hunters during the first week of November. “Once our schedule is set, we stick pretty much to it, and usually only lose a couple of days to bad weather,” Munoz said. “Some campers and island hunters talk about getting stranded out there for a while, but when it happens it’s very rarely for more than
Leelanau Color Tour 2012
Manitou Island Transit’s 62-foot ferry Mishe-Mokwa approaches its berth in Leland Harbor, opposite the transit company’s other ferry, Manitou Isle. a day.” Munoz explained that his decision whether to venture out onto the big lake in the Mishe-Mokwa is tied to some fairly well-defined parameters. “If there are gale force winds, we don’t go,” Munoz said. A gale is defined by the National Weather Service as winds of 34 to 47 knots. If winds that strong are measured at Leland Harbor, gale warning flags go up, and the Mishe-Mokwa stays in port. “This doesn’t mean we cancel trips when gale force winds are predicted,” Munoz explained. “But if the wind is actually blowing that hard, it could be a no-go.” The other factor taken into consideration is wind direction. The biggest problem is getting into and out of the Leland harbor,
Munoz explained. Mishe-Mokwa is good at taking heavy seas on its bow, on its stern, and even on its quarters. But if heavy seas are hitting the boat broadside, the ride can become quite uncomfortable — to say the least. “That’s why in a big northwest wind we’ll first steer north of Leland Harbor so we have following seas coming in and will only get hit on the side for a little while when we make our final turn past the breakwall,” Munoz explained. Conditions at Leland Harbor are not the only limitation, of course. While South Manitou Island provides a protective bay, its dock is not very well protected. Seas of three to four feet can make docking difficult. In some high wind conditions, the Mishe-Mokwa will let off its passengers at South
48
Manitou and then depart for North Manitou rather than waiting it out in the rough waters at South Manitou. Although North Manitou is less often visited and is considered more “primitive” than South Manitou, its dock is sturdier than South Manitou, presenting less of a challenge to loading. “Unlike South Manitou, which has wooden pilings, North Manitou has a steel pier,” Munoz explained. It takes waves of 7-8 feet to interfere with a safe landing at North Manitou. Waves higher than eight feet can crash over the pier and could sweep people right into the lake – another “no-go” circumstance. (Continued on Page 49)
112 North Main Street • Leland
MI 49654 • (231) 256-7747
THE COLOR OF LELAND IS BLUE Jimmy Munoz of Manitou Island Transit mans the helm of the 62-foot ferry Mishe-Mokwa in Leland Harbor.
Safety first (Continued from Page 48) Munoz also takes into account the kind of passengers he’s taking. “We definitely don’t want people getting sick on the boat,” Munoz said, “but of course it happens.” Munoz says he takes into consideration whether passengers appear fit and healthy enough to take a rough ride out to the islands.
Leland Blue, Pearl, Beach Glass/China Petoskey Stone & Mammoth Ivory
He acknowledged he might take a different approach with young kayakers or campers than he might with a group of senior citizens. “In some cases, I might suggest to a group or an individual that this might not be the best day for them to take the trip,” Munoz said. Far more often than not, however, trips to the Manitou Islands via one of Manitou Island Transit’s ferries go smoothly and without incident — even when autumn weather sets in.
Fall Forecast
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Leelanau Color Tour 2012
Harvest Season Is Here Experience Fall on the Harbor
Visit our website for our Calendar of Events
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Happy Hour Mon-Sat 4-7 Sunday 1-6 Book your private party in our event room! Call 231-922-2114
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All your favorites including… Egg Sandwiches – Omelettes – Authentic Mexican Fare French Toast – Pancakes – Corned Beef Hash – Bacon Sausage – Potatoes – Homemade Breads
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Pizzeria All pizzas are 14” and are handmade from scratch with homemade dough, our own sauce and the finest toppings available. Try one of our combinations or make it your own!
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Toppings: pepperoni – bacon – ham sausage – roasted chicken – pineapple artichoke hearts – feta – gorgonzola green pepper – roasted peppers pepperoncini – black olives – green olives kalamata olives – fresh tomato – red onion mushrooms – basil – spinach – roasted garlic anchovies – jalapeños
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Reservations
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Located in Downtown Cedar
52
Wilderness
By Alan Campbell Special to the Leelanau Color Tour
County roads fill in October with visitors eager for a first-hand glimpse at deep blue water splashed in an autumn frame. The “leaf peepers” don’t stray far from cars, and grow scarce when Lake Michigan spits fall storms at the Peninsula. Some 12 miles west of M-22 lies North Manitou Island, a place whose ruggedness seems a world away from the coziness of a SUV parked at a road-end that spills into Lake Michigan. And on that 15,000-acre island are about 100 deer, enough to lure half as many hunters to a place as wild as any in Michigan — or east of the Mississippi River, for that matter. “I just think it’s an amazing place to be,” said Bruce Dembraski, a Postal Service worker who leaves the Upper Peninsula, of all places, to hunt away from the crowds in Leelanau County. “To be out in a wilderness hunting for a week, there is nothing to compare it with. To be out of the regular routine, because you are there, and there is no distraction that will take you out of it.” No neighbors dropping by. No chores. And, so important for Dembraski, no mail — just North Manitou Island and a handful of guys dressed in orange who he occasionally passes along a trail. “It’s a totally different situation for me,” continued Dembraski. “You come home, and there are the regular things going on. But there, it’s totally different. None of your normal day activities will encroach on your hunt on North Manitou.” The island hunt is the main event in fall for a small legion of hunters willing to be marooned in the waning week of the Leelanau color season. It’s much like “the old days.”
Logged, farmed then isolated
The Manitou islands, with their tall stands of timber and easy access by steamer, were settled before the mainland of the Leelanau Peninsula. South Manitou, with its rounded harbor, provided easy transportation for lumber, while loading docks were built around North Manitou. Some of the north island’s cleared land was farmed and planted in orchards, and its west shore provided summer homes for wealthy Chicago families. One “cottage” was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. The bulk of North Manitou Island’s history
Terry McNeil hauls a week’s worth of supplies into the North Manitou wilderness. Circa, 1996.
Color Tour
was controlled largely by a line of large property owners that ended with Muskegon businessman William R. Angell, who died in 1951. He joined a group of Chicago industrialists in assembling properties on the island in the 1920’s and 30’s that would be used mostly for recreation under a syndicate known as the Manitou Island Association (MIA). In 1926 the MIA imported a small herd of deer from Pennyslvania whose ancestors were in for dramatic changes through the years. The deer herd once lived in relative luxury. Angell had specially formulated deer food produced by Kellogg’s packed out to the island to supplement a natural diet. With no pressure from coyotes or other natural predators, deer fattened up like cattle before processing. The herd grew much larger than could be supported by the island’s vegetation; a noticeable browse line started to form in the 1930’s, according a National Park Service writing. After Angell passed, ownership of most of the island passed to the non-profit Angell Foundation. But hunting was fantastic, recalls Leland commercial fisherman Bill Carlson. He has a 134-year connection to the island. Nels and Sophia Carlson homesteaded on 160 acres of North Manitou starting as early as 1878,
having traveled to America from Sweden. Four generatons later, Bill Carlson jumped at an opportunity just out of high school to help guide Angell Foundation hunts. Revenue from the hunts, which were often bought by large corporations as gifts for clients, helped an orphanage in Detroit, Carlson recalled. Many of the corporations sold military equipment to the government. “I guided for lots of generals and majors, and executives for Century boats and companies like that. They would bring over their clients and entertain them, and just have a good time. “In the morning, we’d take them out and try to drive deer to them. And then we’d take them back for lunch, and then take them out in the afternoon where they would stand hunt. What I did most of the time then was scout the island, and take pictures of deer,” Carlson continued. The money was good — real good — for a college student. Carlson took fall off from attending classes at Northwestern Michigan College, and would make about $400 a week. He recalled that clients would pitch in on jackpots won by the hunter with the largest buck. As a guide, much of his income came through tips. (Continued on Page 54)
North Manitou hunt takes you to a beautiful place 53
Leelanau Color Tour 2012
Pursuing deer on their turf (Continued from Page 53) One jackpot brought him $510 from his client’s take. After deer season, Carlson and other guides culled deer on the island, shooting spike bucks and does to keep the population in check. “I shot 110 deer one year. Does and spikehorn bucks, between 100 and 110 pounds. We got pretty good at predicting the size of deer. We kind of practiced deer management at that time without knowing we were doing deer management,” Carlson said. The hunts were curtailed while the Park Service was condemning the island for inclusion in the Lakeshore. The process took several years, and price was the hold up — in a good way. Members of the then-governing, non-profit Angell Foundation chose their favorite charities as beneficiaries of the sale. The supplemental feeding stopped with the deer herd numbering well over 1,000; the health of the deer herd turned dire after six years with no hunting. “Starvation of the island’s deer herd in recent years has varied with the severity of weather conditions,” stated a front page story in the July 19, 1984, Leelanau Enterprise, “peaking at an estimated 80 percent mortality rate during the winter of 1981-82.” Residents joined sportsmen in aching for a hunt as a way to responsibly cull the herd. Mike Grosvenor, whose family continues to provide ferry service to both islands through the Manitou Island Transit Service, remembers the context of his offer to temporarily fix a dock on the island at his own expense in preparation for a fall hunt. He was running the service with his father, George, who is
Hunters, shown after unloading from the Mishe-Mokwa ferry, had their best season in several in 2009. Lennie McNeil, left, holds what turned out to be the largest set of antlers shot that year in Leelanau County. now deceased. “It seems like it took seven years or so, from start to finish, to acquire the island. During that time, the deer were neglected ... the association chose to ignore the deer herd. They were starving to death by the thousands, and continued to do so. Everybody was anxious to get hunters over there,” Grosvenor recalled. Deer densities of 40 per square mile are considered over-populated even for Michigan’s corn belt, where winters are light and food plentiful year-round. The deer population was more than double that density on North Manitou, resulting in stunted growth and over browsing. “We use to call it park-like. Other than the vegetation the deer wouldn’t eat, such as the beech, there were huge sections of the island where nothing was green below eight feet or so. You would swear it was a city park cleared of all the underbrush ... there was no such thing as a tree under 40 years
old,” Grosvenor said. That year Grosvenor did break through the bureaucratic deadlock to transport an estimated 150 hunters to North Manitou. A headline in the Nov. 29, 1984, Enterprise read, “3 of 4 deer hunters got deer on Manitou.” National Park Service records state that some 94 deer were killed, for a 63 percent success rate — still more than double the 30 percent take on the mainland. The National Park Service eventually bought most of the island for $12.25 million. By 1985, the Park Service was ready to organize an all-out assault on the Manitou deer herd. Previously, the deer hunt was held by the same rules as elsewhere in the state. Hunters had to use their regular season tags, and the hunt itself didn’t start until Nov. 15 in unpredictable weather. But hunters would face new obstacles, as all but 21 acres of North Manitou surrounding a small “village” area was managed as
Wilderness, with a capital “W.” Hunters are not allowed to build campfires, must camp at least 200 feet from trails, and must pack out all trash to the village.
Rugged hunt, rugged weather
Grosvenor said before the present dock was built, he rigged an aluminum ramp that was dropped from the front of the ferry to a North Manitou beach, with hunters wading through icy waters to board or exit. For the first few years of public hunting the island filled with hunters, and hunters filled their freezers. Interest was so high that a lottery system was created, with some 5,000 applying for the first special hunt tags in 1985. Hunters did not have to use their tags from the mainland, and a series of hunts spread them out from October through early November. That first (Continued on Page 55)
‘We practiced deer management ... without knowing we were practicing deer management.’ — former North Manitou guide Bill Carlson Leelanau Color Tour 2012
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Deer killed, hunter pressure on North Manitou Island Hunters 710 695 176 52 27 26 56 53
Deer Taken Adult Bucks 825 171 167 49 17 11 2 2 9 7 11 9 12 7 7 4
Sat/Sun – October 20 & 21 10 to 4 pm
Grand Traverse Lighthouse Leelanau State Park Wander the Haunted Basement Activites for children of all ages Hunt the grounds for treasures Take the treasure chest challenge Climb the haunted tower
* Qualified for Boone and Crockett permanent record book with a minimum non-typical score of 195 inches. The minimum for typical racks is 170 inches.
North Manitou: A balance of nature (Continued from Page 54) year, 710 hunters were transported to North Manitou — there are always “no shows” — and they returned with 825 deer. Some 171 of them were antlered bucks. There was always the danger that once dropped off, hunters would have to camp extra nights to outlast a storm. “The one that really rings a bell with Michael, my son, and I was after the dock was built in the harbor. It was the only time I ever left with storm warnings hoisted,” Grosvenor said. “So we loaded up with food from the Merc, and threw in some sleeping bags.” Sure enough, the temperature dropped and the wind blew past 50 knots. The Grosvenors huddled in their ferry. “We told the guys that we’d open the bar every evening on the MisheMawka. So a crew of hunters would come down and hoist a couple beers, and after an hour or so they would head back to their camps.” Two of those early island hunters were brothers Terry and Lennie McNeil of Lake Leelanau. “We started hunting North Manitou when the park took over, which was 1984 or something like that,” recalled Lennie McNeil, a part-time barber and musician, and full-time sportsman. “But you had to use a mainland tag. You’d see 6-7 bucks in a day. And they were healthy. There were a lot of big bucks over there, of about average
State Park entry fee required. Fee for Haunted Lighthouse $4 Adults, $2 Children
size for around here.” The size of the herd fell through early years of the public hunt because of hunting pressure and a lack of natural food. A biologist documented island deer eating washed-up alewives in the worst of years. The National Park Service encouraged hunters to take more than one deer home, and they were stacked up like cordwood on return trips of the Mishe-Mawka. The hunt’s popularity eventually waned as success rates dipped. The island seemed to be sorting through hunters, retaining those up to the task. Still, as late as 1996 some 649 hunters killed 116 deer, including 44 antlered bucks. That winter was particularly brutal, dropping 202 inches of snow in Suttons Bay and clogging the Manitou Passage with ice. After back-to-back 200-plus winters with little browse, the island deer herd was weary. By spring, they would have a new problem to contend with.
Safe passage for coyotes
A Coast Guard copter spotted them first, dark dots darting across a frozen lake, headed to a new world. Lakeshore chief ranger Chris Johnson recalls finding what at first looked like “dog” prints on North Manitou in the spring of 1997. Island deer, who had never known a predator other than man, (Continued on Page 56)
This is a fundraiser for the Grand Traverse Lighthouse Museum
A “Grand” Grand Traverse Lighthouse Christmas (Leelanau State Park, Northport)
Sunday, December 2nd 12 noon to 4 p.m. (An Authentic McCormick Family Christmas) Based on the story written by Bette McCormick Olli in her book, “The Way It Was”: Memories of My Childhood at Grand Traverse Lighthouse, GTLM volunteers will re-create a McCormick Family Christmas of the 1920’s. A fireplace & mantle will be created to hang the children’s stockings, which will be filled with an orange, Brazil nuts and hard candy. The dining room table will be filled with the sight and smells of an actual holiday meal & much more. Doug McCormick & Bette McCormick Olli have provided additional information and guidance to make this a very special Christmas event for all. A special guided tour sheet will be created to allow visitors a self-guided walking tour through each room & read about the many wonderful things occurring during a McCormick Family Christmas.
Climb the tower and tour the Lighthouse Santa arrives at 3 p.m. Holiday Music Visit the Gift shop Holiday cookies & refreshments Make your own Christmas ornament
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1985 1995 2000 2005 2008 2009 2010 2011
The Haunted Lighthouse
(Free Admission to Lighthouse) For more information call Grand Traverse Lighthouse 386-7195
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Leelanau Color Tour 2012
North Manitou: A balance of nature initially may have made the same mistake. Today coyotes have taken over the role of containing the North Manitou deer herd, with hunting reduced to a temporary distraction compared to the year-round pursuit of packs of coyotes. “The number of hunters who go to the island currently are not the controlling factor on the herd,” said Johnson, referring to the inability of deer to grow their numbers. “The only other control is coyotes, and coyotes probably take a number of fawns.” Johnson said no evidence exists to indicate that coyotes lived on North Manitou until 1997, which makes sense. They were rare on the Leelanau Peninsula after civilization took hold, killed upon sight by hunters and farmers. They had no reason to migrate to North Manitou prior to establishment of a deer herd by man. It was only after coyote numbers rebounded on the mainland that their instincts for natural dispersion kicked in, and the island offered bountiful, new hunting grounds. With coyotes leaving fewer deer available, hunting fell off precipitously. Only four deer were harvested in the seasons of 2003 and 2004. The lottery used to disperse permits was faded out; only 60 people applied in 2004. The number of hunters bottomed out at 27 in 2009. An average of 10 deer have been shot on North Manitou during each of the last four seasons. The result is a deer hunt reminiscent of 150 years ago. Coyotes do most of their damage on fawns, meaning that deer surviving their first year have a good chance of living to a ripe old age. Thick ground cover has returned with a vengeance, although a discerning eye can pick out a 20-year absence in the age of trees. They’re relatively young, or really old. Still, deer have plenty of food to survive even tough winters without artificial feeding. Man’s take from the land is incidental, leaving the natural cycle of predator and prey to work out their differences.
Leelanau Color Tour 2012
Bruce Dembraski brought a buck of a lifetime back from the 2010 North Manitou hunt.
Camaraderie of the hunt
Hunters look for a system that works, and so it was with McNeil. He has a “tree lounge” that turns into a cart. Upon arriving on the island, he and Terry roll their supplies about 1.2 miles to a site near Lake Manitou in the middle of the island to set up camp. “Then I backpack my tree lounge into my secret spot. Then I put my tree lounge up, and I sit there all day long.” He shot a big buck in 2009, followed by two big bucks in 2010. “So I really think I have this all figured out, we rolled in and I backpacked back in three miles. The next day I was in my spot before daylight, and I sat up there for four days and only saw a four-point,” McNeil said. Like Dembraski, the McNeils treasure an opportunity to hunt deer one-on-one, without disturbances from other hunters or hikers. “If you get off the road, you really don’t see that many people. I think I saw two hunters from my tree lounge,” McNeil said. Dinners go downhill as the weeklong hunt progresses. The brothers start with a rotisserie chicken on the first day, and eventually a second chicken that was frozen for the trip. Breakfast is oatmeal; trail mix and apples get them through the days. By the end of the week the McNeils are down to “those driedup dinners, but they aren’t very good,” McNeil said. Weather, of course, plays a factor. Fires were unneeded during the last few years. “But one year we had a foot of snow, and it never got over 10 degrees. If you put in the paper that we lit a fire, they’ll probably give me a ticket 25 years later,” said McNeil. While McNeil is leaning toward discontinuing his island hunts — “that island hunting is just too hard,” he says — Dembraski expects to be drawn to North Manitou for many more years. And besides, his father, who is all of 67-years-old, wouldn’t miss it. “It’s a bit of a challenge, but he’s not going to admit that he’s thinking about not going. And I’m commit-
ted in that if he wants to go, I’m going to take him.” Whether drawn by illusions of taking down “Boxcar,” a legendary buck that island hunters gossiped about for years, or the thought of avoiding civilization for a solid week, most hunters do come back, said Johnson. “I’d say 90 percent of the hunters have been there before,” he said. Perhaps the tone of the North Manitou hunt has matured with its
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hunters. Johnson said when the Park Service first opened the island to hunting, “we’d write a couple tickets or take some people off the island every year. But we haven’t done that for 5-6 years. Eventually you get the people who want to hunt, and are not there to party. “It’s not for the faint of heart.” Whatever their reason, Manitou deer hunters seem to enjoy their wilderness color tour.
Updated Exhibits for 2012
Shipwrecks of the Manitou Passage and Life on North Manitou Island: 1895-1930
Open Wed‐Fri 10am‐4pm Saturday 10am‐2pm 203 E Cedar St. Leland, MI leelanauhistory.org 231‐256‐7475
Traditional Anishnabek Arts Collection featuring Native American baskets and quillwork
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(Continued from Page 55)
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Leelanau Color Tour 2012
A calendar to leaf through
Leelanau Color Tour 2012
County-wide events
Oct. 5-7 — Fall for Art in Leelanau Gallery Tour. See more details in art calendar, Page 22. Nov. 3 & 4, 12 & 13 — Toast the Season: The Leelanau Peninsula Vintners Association’s Toast the Season wine tour is a Northern Michigan holiday tradition. Every year the association offers two consecutive weekends of tasting and touring, but get your tickets early as the event sells out quickly. Visit www.lpwines.com/toast/.
Cedar
ur Vo m ted et B Re es st t au ra nt
Try taking just about any road inland from M-22 in Leelanau County, and you’ll enjoy fall’s color with a backdrop of deepblue water. This view is looking downhill on Fort Road south of Suttons Bay.
Go
Oct. 27 & 31 — Halloween Haunted House: Held from 6-9 p.m. both nights at 9172 S. Nelson St., this event is geared toward elementary age children on up, though planners are asking that parents use their own discretion. There is no cost for this event, which is sponsored by the Cedar Area Community Foundation. Oct. 28 — Horseback Riding: Starting at 1 p.m. students 7-18 years old can get one-on-one instruction with an instructor from the 4-H Equestrians. This free event is held at Miller Farms, 5300 Hidden Beach Road, and reservations are required so sign up early by calling 228-3426. Horseback riding is also sponsored by the Cedar Area Community Foundation.
Empire
Oct. 13 — 39th annual Empire Heritage Day: Held from 1-4 p.m. at the Empire Museum Complex. There will be demonstrations in the making of apple cider, ice cream, butter, apple butter, maple sugar candy and sauerkraut. People can see how surveying was done in the old days. Other activities include blacksmithing, woodworking, live music, recorded old phonograph and music box music and player piano demonstrations. There will also be several old tractors, cars (Continued on Page 61)
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Leelanau County is abuzz with autumn activities — including at least one “corny” one. Kids and adults alike can enjoy a new corn maze at Gill’s Pier Vineyard & Winery, located about four miles north of Leland off M-22. The five-acre maze, which officially opened Labor Day weekend, provides two miles of paths and 10 checkpoints through a former hay field that has been converted into a corn maze. In October, there will be a flashlight night maze and on Halloween weekend a haunted maze. Beverages and flashlights will be available for sale. The maze is the creation of Ryan and Kris Sterkenburg, owners of Gill’s Pier. The Sterkenburgs were looking to make use of land they had recently acquired for their winery, and thought a corn maze would be an appropriate addition to their operation. It is also the only maze north of M-72. “A corn maze is a family-friendly destination,” Ryan Sterkenburg said. “You can spend as much time as you like at the facility, go at your own pace, and enjoy the weather.” The maze, located at 5620 N. Manitou Trail, is also available for schools, church groups and corporations. Admission is $6 for everyone over the age of 3; children 2 and under get in free. Special rates are available for groups 15 and larger. All groups must make an appointment by calling 231-6322676. Through September the maze will be open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., with the last entry into the maze at 5 p.m. October hours are from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays; and from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. School, church and corporate trips will be scheduled from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays. “Hopefully this will be a good agritourism destination for people,” Sterkenburg said. Other fall events include:
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Sunday Brunch 10 a.m. - 2 p.m. Serving dinner 5 p.m. - 9 p.m. Reservations recommended Now open seasonally thru Dec.
ned Locally Ow d and Operate
The Grand Traverse Lighthouse will open up its haunted mysteries on Oct. 20 and 21, just in time for Halloween.
Leelanau fills with color and events
Glen Arbor
Sept. 24-Oct. 4 — Ren Matais Mini-show: Monday through Friday, 9 a.m.-2 p.m., Glen Arbor Art Association.
Sept. 27 — 7:30 p.m.: Artist-inresidence Dorothy Brooks, Glen Arbor Art Association. Sept. 29 — Readers’ Theater Auditions: 7 p.m., The Thirty-nine Steps, Glen Arbor Art Association. Oct. 11 — 7:30 p.m.: Artist-inresidence LC Lim, Glen Arbor Art Association. Oct. 15-18 — Watercolor Workshop: By Minnesota artist Andy Evansen, Glen Arbor Art Association. Oct. 25 — 7:30 p.m.: Artist-inresidence Elizabeth Buzzelli, Glen Arbor Art Association. Oct. 28 — Halloween: From 1-4 p.m. the kids can trick-or-treating from downtown merchants. Plenty of treats to go around. Nov. 8 — 7:30 p.m.: Artist-inresidence Susan Tusa, Glen Arbor Art Association. Nov. 23 — Pajama Party: From 5-7 a.m. wear your P.J.s and get to town early to get the best early deals after Thanksgiving. Nov. 23 — Tree Lighting and Carols: At 7 p.m. at the Glen Arbor Township Hall. This is a classic holiday event for the whole family, with a tree lighting ceremony, carols and refreshments to follow. Nov. 23 — Holiday Marketplace Preview: From 7:30-8:30 p.m. at the Glen Arbor Township Hall. Get a sneak peek at handmade keepsakes (Continued on Page 62)
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(Continued from Page 60) and bicycles for providing demonstrations. Oct. 13 & 20 — Historic Beach Patrol: Glen Haven Maritime Museum, event takes place from 7:30-9:30 p.m. Dress for the weather and walk the beach with a surfman from the U.S. Life Saving Service in search of a shipwreck. Oct. 21 — Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore 42nd Anniversary Party: Meet at the Dune Overlook No. 3, Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive to observe Mars, Saturn and the first quarter moon. Party-goers should park at Picnic Mountain, just after the No. 2 stop. Bring bug spray and a flashlight for the walk back to your car. Star parties are cancelled during inclement weather. The decision is made three hours in advance; call 326-5134, extension 331 for a voicemail with the decision. Oct. 31 — Halloween Party, Empire Town Hall, 6-8 p.m. Kids love this annual event where they can trick-or-treat in Empire, followed by a party in Town Hall. Nov. 24 — Empire Artisan Market Place, 12 noon to 5 p.m. at Empire Township Hall.
ee Kids Eat Fr On Sundays
201 N. St. Joseph • Suttons Bay • 271-3300 OPEN MONDAY-FRIDAY 7AM SATURDAY & SUNDAY 8 AM Leelanau Color Tour 2012
Events (Continued from Page 61)
Lake Leelanau
Sept. 20 — A benefit for Leelanau Christian Neighbors: Held from 6:30-9:30 p.m. at Fountain Point Resort, 990 S. Lake Leelanau Dr. in Lake Leelanau. Cash bar, music and live and silent auctions will be held at this event. Tickets are $50 per person. Oct. 6-7 — Skulling school sponsored by the Lake Leelanau rowing club. Contact Fountain Point Resort for more information, call 256-9800.
The Lake Leelanau Rowing Club is seen practicing three times a week in the fall on south Lake Leelanau, and will host a skulling school Oct. 6-7. Leland
Oct. 5 and 6 — Fiber Festival: Friday 5-8 p.m. and Saturday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. at the Old Art Building. The featured artist is Linda Kustra of Traverse City. Oct. 23 — PJ Party & Sale “Where the Holidays Begin” Oct. 27 — Fall Frenzy: From 10 a.m.-5 p.m. in downtown Leland. The event is a huge end-of-season sale from participating merchants. Also visit Fishtown for cider, doughnuts and special sales. Oct. 28 — Fishtown Benefit Brunch: From 10 a.m.-2 p.m. at the Bluebird Restaurant, tickets are
coffee • baked goods lots of wonderful food Check out our menu selections & hours online!!
$30 with proceeds to support preservation work in historic Fishtown. Tickets are available at the Bluebird, at the Fishtown Preservation Office, next to the Leland Library and online at the Fishtown Preservation website. Oct. 31 — Halloween Party at the Old Art Building. Sponsored by Immanuel Lutheran Church of Leland, the party starts at dusk and features a jump house for the kids, snacks and candy.
doors open at 7:30 p.m. The dance will be held at the St. Rita/St. Joseph Men’s Club and features Lake Town Sound, a polka band from Port Austin. The hall is located at 9243 S. Maple City Road. Oct. 27 — Halloween Dance: 8 p.m. to midnight, the dance is held at the St. Rita/St. Joseph Men’s Club, 9243 S. Maple City Road. Featured band is Diddle Styx, a polka band from Grand Rapids.
Maple City
Sept. 22 — Fall Agricultural Festival: Held at the Leelanau State (Continued on Page 63)
Oct. 13 — October Fest Dance: From 8 p.m. to midnight, with
Mass Schedule: Sunday at 8 a.m. 271-3574 9-20-12CT
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Northport
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and edibles created by local vendors. Nov. 24 — Holiday Marketplace: From 10 a.m.-4 p.m. at Township Hall, this annual event showcases keepsakes, edibles and more from a select group of local artisans. Find everything from fresh wreaths to holiday teas, ornaments and handcrafted jewelry to finish your holiday shopping in one day with oneof-a-kind gifts.
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(Continued from Page 62) Park, there will be cider-making demonstrations, a farm market, crafts and craft activities for children, including making a bird feeder they can take home. Food will be served from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. by the Fox Island Lighthouse Association, with pancake breakfast served until noon, when brats and other lunchtime foods become available. Oct. 20-21 — Haunted Lighthouse: Held at Grand Traverse Lighthouse, the weekend event will include a haunted basement tour, treasure hunt challenge and a chance to “climb the tower.” Participants will get to find out if the lighthouse actually does harbor spirits. Special gifts will be provided those in costume. 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. both days.
Solon Township
Sept. 29 — Third annual West Side 5K Run/Walk & Children’s Fun Run: Sponsored by West Side Community Church, 4975 E.
Trish's Dishes
Suttons Bay
Oct. 19 — Suttons Bay Fall Art & Wine Walk: Visit participating shops from 5-9 p.m. and meet award-winning local artists, sample Leelanau County Wines and receive a stamp and enter to win a $250 Village Shopping Spree. Oct. 19, 20, 26, 27 — Haunted Hayrides: Take a ride into spooky woods during this annual event at Black Star Farms, Suttons Bay. Also stop by the Hearth & Vine Cafe for warm cider and other refreshments. Hayride wagons leave the cafe at 7 p.m., with rides ending at 9:30 p.m. Recommended for those who are 12 and up. Rides may be cancelled due to weather. Tickets are $10 at the door.
Sandwiches • Panini Salads • Soups Dinner Specials to take home 994-2288
112 E. Philip St. Lake Leelanau
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Events
Traverse Hwy. Packet pickup and late registration starts at 8:30 a.m.; 5K at 10 a.m.; children’s run at 11 a.m. Proceeds from the event benefit the Freedom Builders Ministry. The run winds through orchards and fields beginning at the church, with medals awarded to the top male and female in each age category. There are also prize drawings for all participants.
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AUTOMOBLOX RAVENSBURGER AUTOMOBLOX RAVENSBURGER 231-256-7575 NEW MERCHANDISE ARRIVING WEEKLY NEW MERCHANDISE ARRIVING WEEKLY OPEN DAILY STOCK UP FOR CHRISTMAS STOCK UP FOR CHRISTMAS 201 N. MAIN STREET, L ELAND, MI
231-256-7575 231-256-7575
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OPEN DAILY OPEN DAILY 201 N. M AIN STREET , LM ELAND MI , L ELAND, MI 201 N. AIN S, TREET
Traverse Area Title Service, Inc. 434 East Front Street Traverse City, MI 49686 231-946-8881 www.traverseareatitle.com
Party décor, greeting cards, gift wrap, plates, cups, napkins, drinkware, utensils, gift bags, tissue, ribbons, streamers, confetti, balloons, fun favors, sky lanterns, stationary and great gifts
Hand Scooped Ice Cream Corner of Pearl & Main, Leland • 256-7010
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Celebrating Year 'Round Stop in & see our New Holiday Décor
Leelanau Color Tour 2012
LIST OF ADVERTISERS 45th Parallel Café & Candy World...............42
Gallagher’s Farm Market...............................51
Northport Building Supply...........................31
Abood, Sam / Coldwell Banker...................36
Gallery 22 / Art by the Bay..........................20
Northwoods Hardware..................................16
Anderson’s Market............................................ 9
Garage Bar & Grill.........................................44
Pedaling Beans Coffeehouse.........................15
Art’s Tavern......................................................42
Gill’s Pier Vineyard & Winery......................24
Pegtown Station...............................................13
At Home / Jetton Miller................................18
Glen Lake Chamber.......................................17
Pennington Collection...................................... 7
Batdorff & Rader / REO.............................29
Good Neighbor Organic...............................24
Pure Prana Yoga..............................................51
Bay Lavender Trading Co..............................59
Grand Traverse Lighthouse...........................55
Red Lion Motor Lodge..................................46
Bay Shore Pharmacy.......................................23
Grumpy’s Market & Deli...............................46
Red Mullien......................................................44
Bel Lago Winery..............................................25
Harbor 22.........................................................50
Riverfront Pizza & Deli.................................62
Bella Fortuna North.......................................11
Hullabaloo........................................................63
Riverside Inn....................................................60
Black Star Farms.............................................30
Interlochen Arts Center.................................33
Ron Brown & Sons.........................................47
Bluebird.............................................................51
Jaffe’s Resale.....................................................23
Roxane................................................................. 9
Boathouse Vineyards......................................28
Kampgrounds.................................................... 7
Secret Garden..................................................21
Bonek Agency..................................................58
Kiss Carpet.......................................................12
Shoe Co. of Glen Arbor................................59
Brainstorm........................................................15
Korner Gem.....................................................20
Sisson’s Main Street.........................................44
Brick, Bob / ReMax.......................................57
Kroll, Connie / Century 21 Northland...... 59
Sleeping Bear Gallery.....................................21
Brunette, Shelly / REO.................................59
La Becasse.........................................................37
Soulfish..............................................................36
Buntings Market..............................................32
Leelanau Chalets & Watersports..................58
St. Wenceslaus Church...................................62
Cedar Rustic Inn................................................ 6
Leelanau County Planning Dept..................42
Studio 106.........................................................41
Cedar Tavern....................................................52
Leelanau Enterprise........................................15
Sugarloaf, The Old Course............................. 7
Chateau de Leelanau.......................................26
Leelanau Historical Society...........................56
Sunrise Landing Motel & Resort.................65
Chateau Fontaine.............................................24
Leelanau Pie & Pastry....................................38
Suttons Bay Artwalk.......................................23
Chimoski Bakery.............................................39
Leelanau Sands Casino..................................... 2
Suttons Bay Trading Co.................................65
Circa Estate Winery........................................26
Leelanau Urgent Care.....................................13
Synchronicity....................................................22
Crystal River Cyclery......................................17
Leelanau Vacation Rentals.............................52
Tamarack Gallery........................................Back
Deerings Market..............................................39
Leland Toy Company.....................................63
Tampico............................................................49
Diversions.........................................................45
Light of Day Organics...................................39
Thistledown Shoppe.......................................49
Dokan Jewelry Design....................................43
Lima Bean.........................................................58
Traverse Area Title..........................................63
Dolls & More...................................................14
Little Bohemia..................................................52
Trend Window & Design..............................67
Excel Rehabilitation........................................50
Little River Casino Resort.............................66
Trish’s Dishes...................................................63
Fall For Art in Leelanau................................... 4
Little Traverse Inn............................................. 6
Unique Hucklebees.........................................19
Fischer’s Happy Hour Tavern......................44
Manor on Glen Lake......................................16
Verterra Winery...............................................26
Fish Hook.........................................................19
Maple City Health & Fitness........................45
VI Grill..............................................................61
Foothill’s Café & Motel..................................17
Maple Lane Resort..........................................43
Village at Bay Ridge........................................65
Forty Five North Vineyard & Winery........ 30
Motovino..........................................................28
Visit Up North................................................20
Funistrada.........................................................59
North End Eatery...........................................50
Wildflowers......................................................... 6
Gabes Country Market..................................41
Northern Latitudes Distillery.......................57
Wilson, Ann / ReMax....................................52
Leelanau Color Tour 2012
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O
T
M
TE L
A N D
S O R E
R
Where the Spice
Sunrise Landing
Road Ends
Spices | Herbs | Seasonings Custom Blends | Hot Sauces 231.271.7423 310 N. St. Joseph
Motel and Resort
Suttons Bay
Your Year Round Lodging Facility on Beautiful Grand Traverse Bay. Scenic, Peaceful & Quiet Continental Breakfast Units with A/C, color satellite TV, phones, kitchens, WiFi, fireplaces and whirlpools. Campfires allowed.
www.sunriselanding.com
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231.386.5010 • 800.488.5762
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3 miles south of Northport GPS coordinates 45.077069 -- 85.590945
suttonsbayspices.com
Ask about our Short Term Winter Lease
...and your home for Tomorrow!
Bay Ridge Independent Living
Assisted Living & Memory Care
Spacious one and two bedroom apartments and comfortable cottages for your independent lifestyle. All the comforts of home, without the worry or work.
Gracious, yet affordable assisted living in a residential setting. Come home to where the care begins.
The Village at Bay Ridge
A Retirement Continuum of Care Community
3850 Scenic Ridge • T.C. • (231) 995-9385 • www.villageatbayridge.com • TTY 800-649-3777 65
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Your home for Today...
T
Leelanau Color Tour 2012
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Leelanau Color Tour 2012
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VIGNETTE 速 MODERN ROMAN SHADES
Hunter Douglas lets you control light. Beautifully.
Luxurious fabric and soft folds. Vignette速 Modern Roman Shades have a crisp, tailored look, with the added benefit of enhanced child safety. Offered in semi-sheer, translucent and room darkening fabrics.
Custom Draperies, Home Accessories, Interior Design, Temporary Shades, Repairs & More.
Trend Window & Design 817 Bay St Traverse City MI 49684 M-F: 9:00-5:30 Sat 10:00-2:00 Other Hours by Appt 231-941-1241 trendwindowdesign.hdwfg.com 800-828-7512
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We also offer:
息2008 Hunter Douglas Inc. 速 and TM are trademark of Hunter Douglas Inc.
MARY ELLEN MCNAUGHTON
THE
T REE , O IL
ON
C ANVAS
BY
D EBORAH E BBERS
GLENN WOLFF
ART ALLISON
~ Located On M-22 In Historic Omena ~ (231) 386-5529
www.tamarackartgallery.com
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T HE L IGHT T AKES