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Fall in



Leelanau Enterprise 2011







Photo by Greg Travis








Leelanau Enterprise 2011

Outdoor photographer Ken Scott, a regular contributor to the Leelanau Enterprise with his “Back Page” photos, provided our cover shot overlooking Fisher Lake and the Lake Michigan shoreline including S leeping Bear Point at that illusive time called “peak color.” Scott’s pictures are available to purchase in Leelanau County at Two Fish Gallery in Leland, the Cottage Book Store in Glen Arbor, and Michigan Artists Gallery in Suttons Bay, as well as online at


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Leelanau Color Tour 2011

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transportation and predicting peak color “We get these calls every year, ‘When will the trees turn? said Susan Cordes, administrative assistant with the Leelanau Conservation District. “God knows.” State DNR forester Bill Sterrett, who resides in Lake Leelanau, readily admits that he’s not the one pulling biological strings on Leelanau’s maple trees. But he said a review of relatively recent events affecting Leelanau County maple trees may help. First off, the trees are entering their “slowdown” period in much better shape than in recent years. The reason is those pesky bugs that kept eating their leaves have finally gobbled too much of a good thing. Largely missing this summer were infestations of forest tent caterpillars, eastern tent caterpillars and gypsy moths. Most trees bounced back nicely. “I’ve never seen the hardwoods look so dense and so dark. We’re going to see a heavy leaf fall, and hopefully good color with that,” suggested Sterrett, who is district forestry supervisor for northwestern Michigan. Chalk up one point for peak color to form on time or later rather than sooner. Also, Sterrett expects an arid summer on the peninsula to have little impact. According to statistics kept at the Maple City field station of the National Weather Service, more than 13 inches of rain fell in April, May and June — 56 percent more than normal. But then the spigot turned off, as July and August brought just 1.87 inches of rain. The 20-year average is 5.95 inches. Eight straight rainless days followed in early September. The resulting dry ground stressed a few county trees; some responded by heading a little sooner into their long, winter nap. “I did notice some heat stress when it got so hot, and some trees dropped their leaves early. But then we did get some rain. Overall, it’s been a pretty good year to be a tree,” said Sterrett. Another point for normal or late color. Likely to have a more major effect on color are fall storms. A blast of north wind and rain can strip a maple naked at about the time it was getting pretty. “It depends upon how warm it stays. There are a lot of things. If we get a rain and a windy weather event, it’s going to take leaves down.” That one could go either way. One thing is for sure, though: Leelanau’s autumn will break a little later than most other northern Michigan counties. That’s because the peninsula is protected on three sides by temperate Lake Michigan. While it’s true that shortened days have the biggest impact on when leaves turn, temperatures also have an effect, Sterrett said. So while fall color peaks about Oct. 1 near Cadillac, where Sterrett sometimes works at the DNR field station,

Leelanau leaves turn later. Retired county Extension agent Jim Bardenhagen, who is now a full-time farmer, was putting his Michigan State University degree to good use when we reached him for a second opinion. Bardenhagen’s degree was in marketing and transportation. “That’s what I’m doing,” said Bardenhagen on his cell phone. He was delivering a load of Leelanau-grown potatoes and ginger gold apples to a local market for sale. Bardenhagen, who owns a farm in Leland Township, said the lack of moisture did stress some trees, which could set up an early color season. Normally maple trees — the predominant species for Leelanau woods and certainly the acclaimed star of Leelanau’s autumn show — reach peak color between the third and fourth weeks in October. Bardenhagen offered up his prediction under the disclaimer that he’s “not a forester.” Still using that marketing degree, he leaned heavily on the timing of the delivery of one of his first loads of ginger gold apples, which he said are “sweet and tart, good for eating and cooking as well. I like to get them going to markets while there are people around here to eat them.” Grad school, that MSU. “Normally we’re picking them in the third or fourth week in August,” said Bardenhagen. The date was Sept. 2. So will color in Leelanau County peak at its normal time? He thought so. While predicting when leaves will turn can be challenging, Bardenhagen does have a suggestion for extending your color tour, and it relates back to something Sterrett said: Temperatures affect when leaves turn. It’s not unusual to find the mercury in the middle of the county dipping 10 degrees be-

low coastline areas on clear, autumn nights. Begin your color tour by traveling inland roads such as Eagle Highway, French Road and Center Highway. Their distance from Lake Michigan serves to shorten up the growing season. “Early on, you can see some color from M-22, but not much,” said Bardenhagen. A five mile drive inland can make all the difference. Generally the last trees to turn in Leelanau County are the oaks that dominate much of the woods around the Glen Arbor area — unless you want to take a longer ride by boat. Maples fully within the influence of Lake Michigan on the Manitou islands have been known to hold onto their leaves into early November. Enjoy your color tour, when and where ever it may take you. Author’s note: My apologies to Jim Bardenhagen for having fun with his degree. I felt some literary license, having myself received a degree from MSU in Parks and Recreation. — Alan Campbell

Early on, you can see some color from M-22, but not much. Retired county Extension director, Jim Bardenhagen


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We’ve changed the name of our fall color tour guide this year to Fall in Love With Leelanau, as astute readers no doubt noticed. The new name came from Stacia Thompson in our front office. The magazine has thin roots dating to the 1980’s under former Leelanau Enterprise publisher Richard Kerr, whose ad sales people found sponsors for an eight-page advertising section under the header “Join us for Autumn in Leelanau County.” Editorial space included pictures of a roadside scene, a calendar of events, a sketchy map and a picture of pioneer vintner Bernie Rink of Boskydel. He really hasn’t changed much through the years. At the time, the Enterprise web press was unable to print in four-color — which, of course, leaves a newspaper somewhat limited in promoting a color tour. The newest name for the Enterprise fall color tour magazine reflects the love affair visitors and residents alike hold for Leelanau County; the relationship only moves closer in the fall as we brace for winter while savoring the last, brilliant spectacle following a season of growth. We would like to offer a special thanks to all who helped in producing Fall in Love With Leelanau, including staff writers, members of our advertising staff, front office, composition and pressmen. And thanks to free lance contributors, who we hope will be understanding of our treatment of stories. We fought the “square peg, round hole” problem in much of the layout process. And thank you to advertisers who have chosen to spend their hardearned money locally. Please direct questions or suggestions for the magazine to us, the publishers, or to staff members. We’ll take them all into consideration. But for now it’s time to get outside. It’s a great season to be in Leelanau County.


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Leelanau Color Tour 2011


Your guide to Color Tour Weather in Leelanau County

Visitors from downstate often think of Leelanau County as a place for arctic weather — after all, it is considered “Up North” — when in fact they may be likely to encounter higher average temperatures than their home towns at certain times of the year. The reason is Lake Michigan, which has a major influence here. On average, the big lake keeps Leelanau warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer while warding off the extremes that tend to dominate discussion at morning coffee breaks. For instance, the average monthly temperature in February is 31.7 degrees in Saginaw, according to figures provided by the National Weather Service, while Leelanau County is enjoying a “balmy” average of 32.5 degrees. The February average in Detroit is 35.2 degrees. Average monthly temperatures in Leelanau County in other months are generally slightly lower than downstate cities, but only by a degree or two. That’s a big advantage on those muggy, July nights. The average temperature in Detroit for June, July and August is 79.3 degrees, 83.4 degrees and 81.4 degrees. Compare that heat with Lake Michigan-cooled Maple City, where averages for the same three months come in at 76.8 degrees, 80.9 degrees and 79.0 degrees. OK, we’re probably a bit overly optimistic if you don’t like snow, because Leelanau gets plenty of the white stuff. Leelanau County averages 142.6 inches of snow each winter, with December 41.5 inches in December and 45.3 inches in January. Detroit, by comparison, averages less than 42 inches for the entire season.

Sept. Oct. Nov. Avg. Highs




Highest Temp.




Avg. Lows




Lowest Temp.




Avg. Precip.




Avg. Snowfall Highest Daily Snowfall


.4” 11.3”


2.5” 12.0”

Source: National Weather Service, Maple City Field Station

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Leelanau Color Tour 2011

A L N S I D N V M I E U W T S AU Beauty off the Leelanau coast

By Samantha Tengelitsch, Contributing Writer

In Leelanau County, fall color tours often focus on the beautiful mainland. While understandable, they miss the splendor and history of the Manitou islands off the western Leelanau shoreline and the Fox islands to the north. The islands, part of a longer chain extending up through the northern tip of the Lower Peninsula, come with unique qualities and varied histories. Maple and beech climax forests, prominent at places on the mainland, dominate the islands. Their distant bright reds from maples with bold bronze tones inherent in beech leaves invite a wondering eye. Black ash and basswood contribute to brighter yellow hues amid the dark, cool greens of an equally diverse population of conifers. Island colors sandwiched within the blues of Lake Michigan provide a recipe for a sensational fall color tour. We’ll take you up the Leelanau shoreline, stopping often to gaze off at the islands while recanting some of their rich histories. We begin our tour just south of Empire off

Leelanau Color Tour 2011

Wilco Road, where a National Park Service trail meanders along the high ridge rising up beyond the village. North and South Manitou islands are owned almost entirely by the federal government as part of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. North Fox Island is owned by the state of Michigan, while South Fox ownership is shared by developer David Johnson — he’s the person behind Bay Harbor near Petoskey — and the state. STARTING SOUTHWARD The Empire Bluff offers stunning views of Empire, the Sleeping Bear Dunes and the southern portion of the Manitou Passage. Looking north from the bluff, you’ll see the beginning of the Manitou Passage, a once-crucial shipping lane for vessels traversing Lake Michigan from Chicago to Mackinac. South Manitou, the smaller of the two islands, has a prominent rounded, deep-water harbor, making it the primary port for early steamers that required wood for fueling boilers. Largely stripped of timber after loggers came through, the land was settled for a time by


farmers, and then abandoned, as coal became an affordable means of powering ships. Today the island is a mecca for visitors as a ferry runs daily from Leland through the summer months for hikers eager to explore the miles of old roadways, now designated trails. A popular and unique natural feature of South Manitou is a low-lying forest comprised almost entirely of northern white cedar, located on the southwestern corner of the island. The stately monarchs make up the largest and oldest stand of cedars in the world, with one tree measuring over 18 feet around and estimated to be more than 500 years old. Phil Snow, Park Ranger for Sleeping Bear Dune National Lakeshore, spends more time looking at the mainland from the islands than the other way around. We asked Snow for an island perspective on fall colors. “I’ve been out here in October the past two seasons,” Snow said. “You get a lot of reds and oranges, yellows. There’s a lot of variation. Compared with the mainland, the seasons are usually a few weeks behind. Travelling between the (Continued on Page 11)

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Island views (Continued from Page 10)

(Continued on Page 13)


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DUE NORTH Empire is one of three incorporated villages in Leelanau County, offering a vibrant downtown area. After leaving town, take M-109 at a road split and head toward Glen Haven to see what Ranger Snow is talking about. Around the bend you’ll come to Stocking Road — which is not to be confused with Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive. It’s also accessible from M-109 and definitely worth a stop. Off Stocking Road, you’ll find another magnificent view of the islands from Alligator Hill through a trail system that incorporates a series of loops welcoming intermediate to advanced hikers. The first trail is a gradual slope (1.3 mi) climaxing in a breath-taking view of North Manitou. The island lacks a natural harbor, and does not offer the same level of protection to passing ships. Early settlers attempted to grow fruit trees, but the sandy soil and cooler microclimate produced insufficient yields. Today, the island is a magnet for hikers and campers. Like its sister to the south, North Manitou harbors several abandoned cottages, homes, barns and outbuildings. The structures are a testament to an earlier time. North Manitou is also home to one of the finest representative beechmaple climax forests in the country, second only to the Great Smoky Mountains. One of the most-sought views of the islands comes at the top of 260-foot Pyramid Point. From M-109, head east toward M-22 to Glen Arbor, a popular stop offering shopping and quality restaurants. Then its north on M-22 a little more than four miles before turning left on South Port Oneida Road toward the Pyramid Point trail head. Pyramid Point, the closet place on the mainland to the Manitou islands, is located within the Port Oneida Historic District. Once a thriving farming community, the area is now a part of the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. Tom Ulrich, Park Deputy for Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, considers Pyramid Point one of the best places to view North and South Manitou. “The Point offers the altitude and north-facing exposure to facilitate such a clear view,” he said. Now head north on M-22 toward Leland. After passing M-204, look left and in about a mile you’ll discover the entrance to Whaleback Natural Area. Named for the “whaleback” freighters once common on Great Lakes, the Whaleback Natural Area offers a 1.5-mile (round-trip) moderate hike up to


two is neat; you really notice the transitions.” Snow said his favorite place to view the islands is from the hilltop along M-109 just before Glen Haven.

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Island views (Continued from Page 11) the peak, where views of the Manitou Passage are clearly visible from the overlook. The rare sight of thimbleberry provides an added treasure along the slow ascent. A plant common to Lake Superior, it’s rare in Leelanau County. Ash, birch, pine and hemlock trees assure an enjoyable hike full of brilliant autumn colors. Should you be lucky enough to visit North Manitou in the fall — generally a trip dominated by whitetail deer hunters — Snow suggests climbing Old Baldy, a peak located on the southwest side of the island. “You can overlook Glen Haven and part of South Manitou. You get a great view,” Snow said. It’s easily visible from the Whaleback.

Beauty abounds on the mainland and beyond when autumn colors extend onto Lake Michigan. Two more must-see stops for car travelers can be found near Northport, along with one that requires some hiking. Northport itself provides three restaurants and retail shops, as well as an opportunity to enjoy a view toward Charlevoix from the harbor. Back on our journey, follow M-201 north out of the village to Peterson Park Road, which culminates at a high bluff park owned by Leelanau Township. The views of the islands, especially the Foxes, are expansive. A water-level view can be had after a short walk by heading back to M-201, and then north to Densmore Road near Woolsey Airport. Signs take you through miles of trails intertwined through more than a thousand acres of

ON TO THE FOXES Back on M-22, you’ll pass through Leland and historic Fishtown, a major draw and well worth a stop in the fall. Visitors often stop to snap pictures of salmon unsuccessfully trying to pass over the dam and through the Leland River. Leland stores offer a variety of art, clothing and collectables, and its restaurants also provide a major attraction. Heading north again, views of Fox and Manitou islands are available for explorers off M-22 between Leland and Northport. One particularly stunning stop overlooks rows of field crops from Jelinek Road, or Co. Rd. 637.

parkland. The Lake Michigan Trail is the most popular, and ends with an observation deck at the Manitou Overlook. The Manitou Islands and distant views of the Fox islands will unfold before you. Bring a bottle of wine from any of the peninsula’s prized wineries to watch the sunset and catch a view of the islands. If you want to get even closer, hop back on Co. Rd. 629 and keep heading north on the paved road until it ends. With water on three sides, you are at the tip of the Leelanau Peninsula and just a short walk from the Grand Traverse Lighthouse. From here, the history of South and North Fox (Continued on Page 14)

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Island views (Continued from Page 13)

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Islands seems close. South Fox is clearly visible on any day, but gift store manager and program coordinator Suzette Cooley-Sandborn said much of North Fox can be left to the imagination depending upon weather conditions. “Some days it looks like a mirage,” said Cooley-Sandborn. “It’s an awesome view from the tower.” The autumn colors of South Fox, the closer and larger of the islands, shine like a beacon on some days. Eyes failing a bit? Try the view from two telescopes in the tower. At 25 cents a peek, it’s a bargain. The lighthouse is open from noon to 4 p.m. seven days a week from Labor Day through October, and on weekends from noon to 4 p.m. until its final day of the season on Dec. 4. Santa Claus commemorates the event with a visit. In her book The Fox Islands, Kathy Firestone details life on the island by fur traders, fishermen, farmers, wood dealers and lighthouse keepers. In more recent years, the islands have made headlines for other reasons. South Fox was purchased by drug smugglers in the 1970’s, and served as a major stopping off point for transactions by plane. In 1976, the owners of North Fox were charged with operating a pornography enterprise. In the 1980’s, an Army Chinook helicopter crashed into a hillside on South Fox, Firestone wrote. Six men from the 101st Airborne Division were killed in the crash. Newspaper reports said that the helicopter had been practicing over-water flight navigation when the crash took place, just before midnight, near the southern tip of the island. One report that came out several years later linked the crash to training for the U. S. invasion of the island of Grenada that took place three months later in October 1983. Today South Fox is owned in part by the State of Michigan and in part by David Johnson, chairman of the Victor International Corporation. In addition to his private residence, stables and a large runway to facilitate planes travelling to and from the islands, there exists a tribal burial ground and several long-abandoned structures. A lighthouse and associated structures are currently being restored by the Fox Island Lighthouse Association. South Fox Island is also a popular stop for deer hunters in late October. It’s been under quality deer management regulations for several years. The north island was sold in its entirety several years ago by Johnston to the state of Michigan. North Fox is one of the most difficult islands to reach by water, as there is no natural harbor. A former runway located at the center of the island is now defunct. Because it lacks deer, the island is even more tangled by underbrush. But both islands — as well as the Manitous — hold a rugged beauty with their perched dunes, sandy and rocky beaches and dense maple forests. They provide a perfect end to a Leelanau County color tour, with the sun setting in a blaze over their autumn colors.


a lot — and let the sheer beauty over take us.”

you can see Port Oneida and you can look back to see a part of Glen Lake,” said Ulrich. The more energetic of color tour enthusiasts can take the trail loop, ending up back at their vehicle after a two-mile walk.

smell the warm autumn, play with the dog, and watch the sun light up the reds and golds of the Alligator. We’d smooch a little — or

• Mark Spitznagel can be found managing a hedge fund as a nationally respected investor or writing letters to the Wall Street Journal. He also has a home and a farm in Leelanau County. So where would he seek out an autumn view? “I would spend an autumn day with family at my Northport farm, ‘Idyll Farms,’ taking in hayrides, wandering through apple trees and a pumpkin patch, and taking the woods over the hills and colorful woods of their pasture,” he said. • County commissioner David Marshall took a romantic view of autumn in Leelanau. “I would pick up a bag of Bardenhagen honey crisps, a loaf of Stone House bread, a bottle of Circa red, and my wife. Although I’d tell her we were going to take a long walk, in fact we would park ourselves in our own yard on the west end of little Glen with good books, which I probably wouldn’t read. We’d listen to the quiet,


• Former Michigan Gov. William G. Milliken is widely respected as an environmentalist who did much to preserve the best places in Michigan for future generations. He was in office in 1970 when the Lakeshore was established. Evie Kuncaitis-Huver, his administrative assistant, said Milliken “enjoys knowing the beautiful walking trails are there in the Glen Arbor area. It brings him great pleasure to know these trails exist and are available to the public.” In other words, you can’t go in the wrong direction on a color tour in the Lakeshore.

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If you could pick a view to take in autumn’s splendor by saying “Leelanau is a leaf-peeping paradise,” where would it be? Now try saying “Leelanau is a leaf-peeping paradise” three times in a row. We dispensed with the contest version of choosing the perfect place to view an autumn day in Leelanau County — paradise in so many people’s eyes — while posing the question to a variety of interesting people. And we received a variety of interesting answers. Following are some of the responses: • Tom Ulrich, deputy superintendent, Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. Wouldn’t it be nice to have a job that included being able to pinpoint the best spots in the most beautiful place in America to enjoy autumn’s leafy bounty? We’ve worked on Lakeshore stories with Ulrich enough to know his responsibilities take in much more than the Chamber of Commerce aspect of being a park spokesperson. That said, he knows the park as well as anyone. “There are a couple views that seem to come to mind,” Ulrich said, when posed the question. The first was North Bar Lake Overlook No. 11 from Pierce Stocking Drive, which is known more for providing access to views of Lake Michigan and Glen Lake than autumn woods. But No. 11 is different. “You see North Bar, and a lot of forest,” said Ulrich. His second suggestion is Lookout Point, accessed on Bay View Trail. It has a trailhead off Thoreson Road in Glen Arbor Township. The half-mile hike is worth the effort. “You can see the islands,

Hedge fund manager Mark Spitznagel would make a walk through an apple orchard to take in a view of Leelanau in autumn.

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GRAPES ARE GREAT – and plentiful Summer tourism in Leelanau County thrives on warm, sunny days. Tourists and locals alike will get another taste of the summer of 2011 after the county grape crop is picked, and it’s likely to be just as delicious. Leelanau vintners say they could not have planned a more ideal growing season, starting with a late bloom and — if all goes as planned — ending with the continuation of dry weather. “Of course, it’s not over until it’s picked,” cautioned Bel Lago Vineyard & Winery coowner and wine maker Charlie Edson, noting that the grape harvest should begin right on time about Oct. 1. “We’ve gone from a harvest that looked to be a poor one this spring, to one that is now looking very good.” Grapes and winemaking have grown to become much more than a sideshow for the bounty of Leelanau County’s agriculture, which traditionally has centered around cherry orchards. Starting in the 1970’s and surging markedly during the past decade, Leelanau’s wineries — the number now tops 20 — employ hundreds and have attracted a steady stream of visitors eager to sip award-winning wines while savoring world-class vacation destinations. Judging by the grapes maturing on Leelanau hillsides, 2011 vintages will continue to deliver. The micro-climate of Leelanau County put in a near-perfect showing for grapes this season, which started with a cool and wet spring. More than 17 inches of rain fell from April through June — about double the usual amount. Then the rain machine abruptly shut down, delivering just one-half inch in July and 1 1/4-inches in August during a period when six inches of precipitation is the norm. While downstate Michigan and even parts of northern Michigan received ample rain this summer, Leelanau County stayed dry. The result was a near record-breaking year for tourism — and some great grapes heading into their final weeks of maturation. “To me, this is a textbook season for Michigan grape growing,” said David Bell, owner of Circa Estate Winery with his wife, Margaret. “We had that miserable spring that was not good for humans, but was perfect for grapes. This year we had a full crop because

The Harvest Stompede, a race and wine tour on the Leelanau Peninsula held this year the weekend after Labor Day, traditionally kicks off the fall harvest at county wineries. the buds were delayed until the danger of frost was gone. They then budded out, and we had ample subsoil moisture from that winter and spring, so we were able to handle that dry spell in July and August.” The lack of rain also allowed vintners to greatly reduce or eliminate spraying to combat disease, Bell added. In contrast, the 2010 crop was high on quality but short on quantity. Vintners are looking forward to the best of both worlds. “There was lots of talk last year about what a great year it was, but we got nipped in May by a frost ... wines were in short supply,” Bell said. Some wines and grape varieties look espe-


cially promising, said Edson, a former agricultural professor at Southwest Missouri State University and Michigan State University. They include: • “We’re looking at least as good as 2008 when the white wines were just fabulous. I think the white wines are looking particularly good.” • Auxerrois, a variety of grape from northern France that has been in the ground at Bel Lago for 25 years. “It’s an early ripening variety. That’s going to be marvelous.” • Sparkling wines, which result from grapes that are also picked early to avoid an over(Continued on Page 20)

Leelanau Color Tour 2011

Grapes are great (Continued from Page 19)

Grapes fill a hillside at Chateau Fontaine winery in central Leelanau County.

developed flavor. “You want the flavor to be a little more delicate. The CO2, the bubble itself, tends to push along flavor,” Edson said. • Cool evenings will deepen the flavors of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. Another professor, Dr. Erwin “Duke” Elsner, MSU small fruit extension director, laid out a perfect scenario for September grape weather. “Sunny days offer the maximum photosynthetic output from the leaves to properly mature the crop and the developing buds that will provide for next year’s productivity, and cool nights during ripening promote good color development in the fruit. And we definitely don’t want any frosts until the end of October.” Circa Estate Winery is located on East Horn Road in Suttons Bay Township, while Bel Lago is located on South Lake Shore Drive overlooking south Lake Leelanau. Edson recalls planting one acre with several varieties of grapes at the site in 1987. “I was a professor, so of course I had to start out everything by testing,” he said. Now, like the industry itself, Bel Lago has grown, and includes 33 acres of grapes including many grown on a site in Leland Township off Houdek Road. He is joined by his wife and mother-in-law, Amy and Ruth Iezzoni, in running the winery — and looking forward to bottling the promise of the 2011 crop. “I am, at least for the moment, just thrilled,” he said. — By Alan Campbell

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Leelanau County is the place to be for wine lovers in the fall, when the excitement of harvest draws thousands to the peninsula. So have wines from Leelanau come of age? Perhaps. While opinions on wine tastes and industry trends vary tremendously, there is one thing that everyone seems to agree on:

Michigan wines are coming into their own, with the Leelanau Peninsula producing worldclass, prize-winning vintages. Vintages from last year’s crop of grapes brought that out. Four of eight Best of Class category prizes in the 34th annual Michigan Wine and Spirits

I believe in it, and I got tired of people telling me it couldn’t be done. Stan Silverman of Good Neighbor Winery on why he grows organic products

Competition were awarded to Leelanau wineries, with Chateau Fontaine, Black Star Farms, Forty-Five North Vineyards and Winery and L. Mawby each having entries win “Best of Class” awards. All of Verterra Winery’s seven entries received medals in their first year entering the competition. Dan Matthies, who with his wife Lucie, owns Chateau Fontaine Vineyards and Winery, agreed that 2010 was an exceptional year. Three of his 2010 vintages took top prizes in the Pacific Rim Wine Competition in San Bernardino, Calif. “The 2010 wines are incredible,” he said. “The 2010 winemaking year finished brilliantly for white wines, and solidly for red wines,” said Lee Lutes, winemaker and general manager of Black Star Farms. “Some of the whites have been world class, while early releases of the reds show them to be good, but not as deep or complex as better vintages, say, 2007. In this region, it is all about the vintage, meaning the growing season.”

Bottoms up for wine sales “Wine sales seem to be holding strong, (Continued on Page 24)

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Other trends for Leelanau wine “A big trend in the wine business, and most other businesses, is sustainability,” Hamelin continued. “For our business, this means looking at ways to minimize chemical and fertilizer use with a focus on practices that utilize what the land has to offer, planting the right varietals of grapes that can thrive in our climate, and using the absolute minimum in chemical applications to control diseases. It also means we look to promote beneficial wildlife in our vineyard. We installed 20 bluebird houses throughout our two vineyards to encourage the birds to take up residence and eat lots and lots of insects. In the winery, we choose packaging that is part recycled, use glassware that is lighter in weight that costs less to ship and produces less waste. Instead of building a new tasting room, we remodeled a building that has been around since the ‘20s, using sustainable materials and low-voltage lighting. We also installed a special dishwasher that uses less water and almost no chemicals to clean our glassware.” Vineyard owners share this emphasis on sustainabiity. The Leelanau Peninsula is home to the first certified organic vineyard and winery in the state. Good Neighbor Organic Winery, located about three miles south of Northport, is owned by Stanley Silverman, who has been selling organic products since 2001. Silverman produced his first organic wines in 2007, and now produces four estate white wines and a line of five crafted hard ciders. “We planted our first vines as an experiment in 2004 and 2005,” said Silverman. “We now have about 11 acres in organic grapes and are planning to increase that to about twelve-and-a-half.” Silverman has gone “organic” for two reasons: “I believe in it, and I got tired of people telling me it couldn’t be done,” he said. “I’ve proven that, if you give the vines the greater air flow that they require, you can grow grapes organically here with no problems at all. You just have to be more pro-active. You have to be in tune with your land. Most of us up here are small growers, and we know exactly what is going on in our vineyards.” — Credit to Kristine Morris

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despite the economic downturns,” said certified sommelier Becky Hemmingsen, owner of The Wine Shop at Hansen’s in Suttons Bay. “People enjoy wine whether they are happy or sad, rich or poor, contented or frightened. I did notice that when the economy started a down-slide several years ago, people were still consuming wine, but choosing less expensive bottles. That has pretty much evened out. “ Lutes said there has been a trend toward “value driven” wines, as well as for wines that represent exceptional quality for their type. “The Black Star Farms line of wines represents exceptional value in blended-style wines,” he said, “and our Arcturus line meets the needs of those who are interested in greater quality within a particular variety.” The word about Michigan wines continues to spread, he added. “It still continues to astound us how many people in our own back yards do not know about Michigan wine.” Verterra co-owner Geoff Hamelin cited the “Go Local” movement and its benefit to the local economy. “Consumers are asking for local wines in restaurants and purchasing them in the areas they are visiting,” he said. “We address this demand by growing our own grapes in Leelanau County and using that quality fruit as the centerpiece of everything we do at Verterra. Wine has a ‘sense of place,’ or ‘terroir,’” he said, “and we are producing world-class Rieslings, Pinot Blancs, Pinot Gris, and Gewurztraminers that neither Australia nor California can replicate.”


(Continued from Page 22)


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OCTOBER 7-8-9, 2011 Plan your visit to Leelanau County for the Columbus Day Weekend and be a part of the SIXTH FALL FOR ART IN LEELANAU GALLERY TOUR Oct. 7-8 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Oct. 9 10 a.m. - 2 p.m. • Prize drawing and reception 3 p.m. Sunday at Lake Street Studios in Glen Arbor. • Door prizes. • Good food. Good spirits. • Beautiful art for viewing and purchase.

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We’re 500 acres short of being able to meet the demand. Dan Matthies, who specializes in matching prospective vineyard owners with the right piece of property

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MORE HAPPY ENDINGS Leelanau County’s wine industry has grown swiftly, but appears far from peaking, according to a vineyard owner who also sells grape-growing land. Dan Matthies recalls fondly his start in the wine business. He started out small, with an abandoned farm he found while driving home from work as a ski shop owner. That property became Chateau Fontaine (the name was taken from the middle name of his wife, Lucie, who is of French descent), and the couple now has 27 acres of their 90-acre property planted in vines. Matthies has created a real estate company, Peninsula Properties, Inc., that specializes in matching prospective vineyard owners with just the right piece of property; he also counsels realtors, real estate companies, and prospective buyers who seek him out for his expertise in the wine industry. “The reason that Leelanau County is so ideal for growing grapes is that it provides just what they need: hills with a southern exposure; dark, gravelly, sandy loam soil; and, most important for us, the moderating effect that Lake Michigan has on our climate. We have a 26-mile-long lake that is heating up, and it allows us to grow through the month of October without freezing. We are really the richest state in the country because we have the biggest freshwater reserves in the world,” said Matthies.


Even the gravel is important, as the heat it gathers during the day is eventually transferred to grape vines. “Right now there’s such a large demand for Michigan wine that, here in Leelanau County, we’re 500 acres short of being able to meet the demand,” he said. Good grape land remains ready to cultivate. Several Leelanau properties have recently been planted in vines, he said, marking them on a county map. Included are the French Creek Vineyards and Winery (“They should be opening within a year or two,” said Matthies), Blue Stone Vineyards and Winery, and The Boat House Vineyard and Winery. The new Verterra Winery is already producing award-winning wines. Matthies said that those who are considering starting a vineyard need to understand that it’s a complex and expensive undertaking. “Raw vineyard land is currently selling for anywhere between $6000 and $15,000 an acre,” he said. Planting costs about $15,000 per acre; maintenance adds $2,000 annually per acre. Then there’s a waiting period of between three and five years for the first, partial harvest. “It’s definitely a long-term investment if you want to go into it,” he said, “and I try to help people make the right decisions. I want to see this business grow, and so (Continued on Page 30)

Leelanau Color Tour 2011

More happy endings (Continued from Page 29) does the governor of our great state. I don’t want people to come in, find out that it’s too hard, and abandon their vineyards. This would prejudice our growing wine industry, which is the state’s fastest growing segment – the shining star of the State of Michigan Department of Agriculture, and the savior of property in Leelanau County.� The Sterkenburg family’s journey into the business started about 10 years ago. Ryan and Kris Sterkenburg had already decided their property overlooking Lake Michigan would stay in agriculture. That took little discussion. But how best to accomplish that, and eventually make a living off the land? “It was property owned by my in-laws, and we had beer discussing what to do with it. It was about the time other vineyards were getting started,� recalled Ryan Sterkenburg. Their story in some form has been repeated many times across the Leelanau Peninsula — and, as in the Sterkenburgs’ case, been successful. After deciding grapes were in their future, the Sterkenburgs worked with Hamilton Agronomy just across M-72 in Grand Traverse County to determine what needed to be done. Their ridgeline ran southwest to northeast, providing a healthy dose of sunlight for the growing season. Like most land in Leelanau County, soils on the Sterkenburg property were a bit on the sandy side. They selected four acres to improve, planting buckwheat one year and rye the next. They’re termed “green� fertilizer after being plowed back into the ground. “We had to beef up the soil and get it to the point we needed it to be,� said Sterkenburg. The result is Gills Pier Vineyard and Winery, located off M-22 between Leland and Northport with a signature potato wagon sitting near its entrance. Life has been good for the Sterkenburgs, whose son Jake is in the Navy and daughter Samantha is a junior at Leland. “It was a wonderful experience. I love it, especially this time of year. The fruit is starting to turn, and it’s pretty here.� The Sterkenburgs built their home about the same time the first grape vines were planted. Running his vineyards and winery is a passion of Matthies. He also enjoys helping others get established in the industry. This, too, has become a family enterprise. Matthies’ son Doug owns Big Paw Vineyard Services, which can prepare, plant and manage vineyards once land has been purchased. Granddaughter Paige Fontaine Matthies is planning to take over the business when Matthies is ready to retire, although it looks as though she may have to wait a while. “I’m in love with this business,� he said. “This is where I want to be, and what I want to be doing every day. I’m really blessed, because I’m making my living off my land and pouring and serving the fruits of my labor.� — By Kristine Morris and Alan Campbell

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Visit participating shops, meet award-winning local artists, sample Leelanau County wines, receive a stamp and enter to win a $250 Village Shopping Spree!

Fall in Leelanau County means color leaves, long weekends exploring wineries and shops. It also means lots of art events, such as the 2011 Fiber Arts Festival in Leland which takes place on Oct. 7-8.

FALL IN LOVE WITH COUNTY ART EVENTS At its best, fall in Leelanau County comes with bright sunshine, blue skies and literally tons of beautiful, colored leaves. Also certain is a busy schedule for the Leelanau artisan community, which has planned shows, exhibits and classes to keep just about anyone who enjoys art busy through the end of October. Three events will take place on the second weekend in October. Fall for Art in Leelanau is scheduled for Friday to Sunday Oct. 7-9 at participating galleries around the county. John Houston, an artist with the Glen Lake Artist Gallery, has organized the event for at least the last four years. He was still working out details as this edition went to press, but in past years, the event could be described as a combination color tour and art exhibit as participants drove from gallery to gallery. A reception was held on the Sunday of the event, at which door prizes were awarded. “There will be a tour, we just have to get things lined up,” Houston said. To keep abreast of what is happening with Fall for Art, please call

the gallery at 334-4230. The Leelanau Community Cultural Center will host its 10th annual Fiber Arts Festival over the weekend of Oct. 7-8. An opening reception will be held from 5-8 p.m. on Oct. 7. The festival runs Saturday, Oct. 8, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Artists will display their original works in the fiber medium, which could be anything from finely woven sweaters and mittens, to paintings using fiber tissue. The event is held in the Old Art Building located on Cedar Street off of M-22 in Leland. For more information please call 256-2131. On Thursday, Oct. 6, the Watershed Center Grand Traverse Bay will host Art of the Watershed exhibit from 5-8 p.m. at its building on M-22 in Greilickville. Sarah Uren is program director for the center. “This year’s artist is Char Bickel. Her work is unique amongst area artists and we are looking forward to seeing what she has created for this event,” U’ren said. Fall art events concluded with the Suttons Bay Art and Wine Walk set for Friday, Oct. 21 from 5-9 p.m.

Abby Charter, manager of the Front Porch in Suttons Bay, is one of the event organizers. “We’re just starting to talk with the business owners in Suttons Bay to see who wants to participate,” she said. The art and wine walk is the second held each year in Suttons Bay. The first is held in June around the summer solstice. “We usually get 15 to 20 businesses. All participating businesses will have an artist displaying their work and some will have a display from a local winery,” she said. The event takes place in Suttons Bay. Hungry for more art events? Leelanau County has them. Following is a list as posted by local art groups and organizations: SLEEPING BEAR DUNES NATIONAL LAKESHORE • Sunday, Sept. 23, and Sunday, Oct. 21, 2-4 p.m. Artist in Residence presentations at the Philip A. Hart Visitors Center off of M-72 in Empire. Artists who have lived in accommodations at the Lakeshore and created works based on what they have observed will be present. They will discuss how they created


their works and how the area inspired them. A park pass is required. Call 326-5134 for more information. GLEN ARBOR The following Glen Arbor Art Association gallery and artist-inresidence showings will take place in the association’s studio off Lake Street in Glen Arbor. For more information about these events go to • Monday, Sept. 19 through Sunday, Sept. 30 — Gallery presentation of the works of county artist Joan Gurthet on display from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. each day. • Saturday, Sept. 29 — Artist-inResidence Ellie Harold, oil painter, presentation, 7:30 p.m. • Friday, Oct. 7, through Sunday, Oct. 9 — GAAA Member Show, opening reception Oct. 7, 7-9 p.m. • Thursday, Oct. 13 — Artist-inResidence presentation by plein air painter Lynn Uhlmann, 7:30 p.m. • Monday, Oct. 17, through Friday, 28 — Gallery presentation of the works of county artist Sue Quinlan on display from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. each day.

Leelanau Color Tour 2011

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Good Morning America television show. They’ve known of Leelanau’s beauty all along. ong. Now that the word is out, where can you go for a “getaway?” Here’s a word of advice for first-time color lor tour adventurers in Leelanau County: You can’t take a wrong road. Each leads to a new adventure. County roads heading up Leelanau’s hillsides provide balcony seats to what many consider to o be the best show this fall in America: nature in transition. sition. Add in our fields of crops and orchards, provide rovide a stunning, blue backdrop courtesy of one of thee largest

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Leelanau County’s Original 18-hole golf course. A favorite golf destination in Leelanau County for over 40 years, Sugar Loaf The Old Course is the

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Leelanau Color Tour 2011 36


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LITTLE WHITE BALLS, bright red maples By Mike Spencer

Reduced rates, fewer participants and a fall color spectacular to boot. Widen the cup for the ball to go in and voila ... you have 144 guys and gals show up for a two-day golf outing every October. That’s what Matt Morrison, head Professional Golf Association pro at the Leelanau Club, discovered 11 years ago when the course started a fall golf scramble with a bigger hole than usual. The most popular golfing event in the area offers an eight-inch diameter hole, nearly twice as big as the regular 4 1/4 inch cups. “People love falls in Michigan,” said Morrison, who took over as head pro in 2002 and continued a tradition that began the previous fall. “We’ve got a lot of people from downstate, especially from the Bay City area. “They come up for the great vistas of the colors. They also come because the rates are down, the course isn’t so crowded and the weather is a little cooler.” “We keep getting bigger,” said Bay City’s Ed Mata, who has organized 11 foursomes for the

event this year on Oct. 1-2. “Our whole team loves the event. “It’s the fall place to go. It feels like Christmas and we look forward to it the entire year.” Mata’s best friend is Morrison’s brother, Bill. Mata had been going to Traverse City each fall until Matt Morrison took over as the head pro and turned it into a Big Cup event. “There isn’t anything like the Big Cup,” said Mata, who carries a seven or eight handicap at home but feels equal to some of the top guys in the Big Cup. He won the C Flight in 2009. “The bigger hole gives us a chance against guys we have no business playing with.” Morrison said the bigger cup has its advantages. “You see things that you don’t normally get in a scramble,” Morrison said. “You get a lot more chip ins. “And instead of guys getting balls right next to the hole, they are in. The scores are much lower.” Morrison has no trouble getting a full field of (Continued on Page 38)

Lake Leelanau resident Gary Schaub launches a shot from SugarLoaf The Old Course from Hole No. 16.

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Little white balls, bright red maples (Continued from Page 37) 36 teams. Registration begins the first of August. Most of the golfers come north and make it a three-day weekend, playing a practice round on Friday to get used to the bigger cups. Morrison admitted he’s thought about enlarging the cups for regular season play. “I thought about it, but people would get used to it and they wouldn’t have as much fun,” he said. The bigger cup in a four-person scramble turns a 20-foot putt into a “gimme,” Morrison said. You don’t have to be in the Big Cup to enjoy fall golf on Leelanau County courses. “It’s a great time to play golf,” said Logan Price, director of golf at the Manitou Passage Golf Club. “The course isn’t as crowded and the weather is still pretty decent. “And the golf is discounted after Labor Day.” Price is holding a two-person fall scramble for the first time. It will be held Oct. 16-17. The one big advantage of playing in the fall is the “leaf” rule, course operators say. If it’s hidden from view by a leaf or branch, you throw out a new ball and hit another shot without penalty. “I like playing those rules year-round,” Price said. “Even if I can’t find my ball in the summertime.”

Chris Wakeman, general manager at SugarLoaf Gary Hosking of Leland Township agrees. the Old Course, says most of the folks come up “There are fewer people typically, but you north for the laid back golf and the colors. have to dress for it,” said Gary Hosking said. “Most of the golfers are “My cut off is usually 50 fall-tour type people,” degrees, less than that and I Wakeman said. “They’re probably won’t play. here to catch the colors and “I love the wind, it to get a break in the price of reminds me of Ireland.” golf.” Hosking, who says he is Wakeman said the course on a “sabbatical” from his is usually busy in the fall. investment firm so he can “It seems like we get a work on his handicap, plays lot of seniors,” he said. golf several times a week “Many of them like the in the fall. relaxing atmosphere. “I love the camaraderie “They have an opportuand it’s so pretty out there,” nity to play a casual round he said. “And I love the instead of being on a course leaf rule.” that is solid packed with He also enjoys being out — Chris Wakeman, team times.” on a course with few other general manager, Of course, there are some golfers pushing you. SugarLoaf the Old Course drawbacks to playing fall “I love being the only golf. one out there,” Hosking Mata, who is in the real said. “And I play as long as estate business, said he has they let me.” learned to dress for all the Plus, you can’t beat the fall elements, bringing cart prices. For example, the heaters, gloves and other items to stay warm if Leelanau Club drops down from $75 in the sumMother Nature doesn’t cooperate. mer to $49 for September and then $39 in “You have to dress for all the elements, cold, October. rain and even snow,” he said.

They’re here to catch the colors and to get a break in the price of golf.


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SQUASH PUMPKIN FOR SOUP By Samantha Tengelitsch Contributing Writer & Farmer

We’ve arrived at the harvest, a time to welcome the warm, rich flavors of autumn. Pumpkins and winter squashes are ripening on the vine, while cabbage and potatoes are ready for stewing. These savory ingredients are a perfect compliment to the turning leaves outside. Meeghan Siera, of the Leelanau Produce Market and Cherry Bend Farm, said one of her favorite memories of fall was making sauerkraut with her mother and siblings. The market and farm are located in Elmwood Township, near DeYoung Natural Area. “My siblings and I were the ‘stompers,’ and mom would do all the cutting with our antique kraut-cutter,” said Siera in describing the process. Cut cabbage was then bagged so Siera and her siblings could “stomp” the bags. Stomping bruised the cabbage, speeding up fermentation. They then added salt, repeating the process until the crock was full. Siera said sauerkraut takes several weeks to ferment. She added it was well worth the wait. “I still prepare sauerkraut the same way; canning it when it has the desired flavor. There is nothing like fresh sauerkraut.”

. pie n i mpk Autho r’s home-made pu

Cherry Bend Farm is one of several farm markets within Leelanau that sell everything from pumpkins and squash to cabbage for kraut. Said Siera, whose family purchased the farm nearly 50 years ago, “We are proud to be farmers and feel we are helping to preserve a way of life in Leelanau County.” Also interested in preserving the old ways of farming, Jess Piskor and Abra Berens of Bare Knuckle Farm in Northport are ready for fall harvest. Said Berens, “Our farm grows about 20 different varieties of squash. Lots of them are old-timey: Bumpkins, Pennsylvania Dutch Crookneck, and Blue Hubbard. Some are everyone’s favorites: Acorn, Buttercup and Delicata. That’s what I think is so interesting about diversified farms; you can grow it all. And we try our very best.” Berens said she is particularly interested in Blue Hubbards as they produce a lot of food and aren’t especially sweet. “The huge ones are enough to feed you for a week. Just roast it all up and then you’ve got the starts for a squash soup or mash.” Beren recommended her spicy squash soup to anyone interested in spicing things up on those cooler autumn evenings.


Spicy Squash Soup Ingredients: 1 large squash (butternut or blue hubbard) 1 onion, diced 2 stalks of celery, diced 2 cloves garlic 1 dried pepper (ancho or chipotle) 1 qt stock or water 1 lime Sour cream Cilantro Split and seed the squash and roast at 375(F) until very tender. Allow to cool, then scoop out the flesh. Next, sweat the onion and celery with garlic and dried pepper. When soft, remove the dried pepper and add the squash, lime juice and stock and puree until smooth. Taste and season with salt and cayenne pepper. Serve with a dollop of cream and chopped cilantro leaves. Pair any of these dishes with a real pumpkin pie, made from locally grown sugar (pie) pumpkins. It’s a simple recipe and yields vibrant color and taste without the additives. (Continued on Page 40)

Sickle and silage Gerald “Gerry” Olsen uses a sickle to knock down corn stalks that he’ll feed cattle just off Co. Rd. 669 in Cleveland Township. Olsen, 71, said he farms 440 acres with this brother William. The stalks will get gobbled up once tossed into the pasture, helping the herd prepare for the winter, he added. He’s driving an old case tractor.


Leelanau Color Tour 2011

Soup and pie recipes (Continued from Page 39) Pie or sugar pumpkins may be found at most groceries or markets locally. They are a smaller, more sugary version of their Jack-O-Lantern cousin.


Homemade Pumpkin Pie Filling 1/2-1 Cup sugar 1 Pie Pumpkin. 2-4 Tbs. butter 2 eggs 3 Tbs. milk

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Simply cut the pie pumpkin in half and empty the pulp and seeds. If you’d like, reserve the seeds, wash and dry them, then coat with butter and salt and bake alongside the pumpkins. Next, lay the halved pumpkins face down on a baking sheet. Bake for one hour at 350(F). Prepare your crust using 1 1/4 cup flour, 1/2 cup shortening, 3 tablespoons cold water (makes one layer). Once pumpkins have finished cooking, remove and scoop the pumpkin flesh into a bowl. Cut in 1/2 to 1 cup sugar (most sugar pumpkins are fairly sweet already, so taste your pumpkin first, then adjust accordingly), cut in 2-4 tablespoons butter, beat two eggs and add three tablespoons milk, whisk and add to mixture. Blend all and pour into piecrust. Bake at 350 degrees (F) for one and a half hours. Whether an old family recipe or a new way to prepare a favorite squash, the varieties and full flavors and color of the autumn harvest are a great way to welcome the new season. For more recipes, try consulting your local farmer.


Ingredients: Crust 1 1/4 Cup flour 1/2 Cup shortening 3 Tbs. cold water



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a time to slow down when cooking By Amy Hubbell

After a busy summer, autumn allows us time to slow down a little and enjoy the turning colors, crisp days … and food. Peggy Zemanek of Cedar is looking forward to having more time to cook for her family this fall. Zemanek has been cooking all summer for others, selling baked goods and quiches at county farmer’s markets. “I just don’t have the time during the summer,” she said. “Recently, I tried to throw together a quiche for my family and thought I’d try a hash brown-like crust. I didn’t have any regular potatoes, so I tried it with sweet potatoes. It was OK, but it would have worked out better if I had cooked the potatoes a little ahead of time.” Time is a factor for most families. During summer, days are longer but it seems every minute is occupied between work, festivals, barbecues and out-of-town visitors. Sure, we have ample produce available, but we honestly try not to spend much time in the kitchen during the summer when we prefer to enjoy warm tempera-

It’s so easy, you put it in the pot and forget about it.

Nina Rathnaw of Suttons Bay, on using a big soup pot for her family favorite spareribs and cabbage

tures outside the house. “My favorite thing to make in cooler weather is chicken noodle soup. When the kids came home from school, all they had to do was open door to know what I’d been working on,” Zemanek said. “It was their fall favorite.” Nina Rathnaw of Suttons Bay uses a big soup pot for her family favorite spareribs and cabbage (complete recipe below) “It’s so easy, you put it in the pot and forget about it,” said Rathnaw, who has the time available as she’s retired. “My daughter, Mary, also lives here. But she works and doesn’t have time. So, I’ll make a pot and call her over for dinner.” Besides ribs and cabbage, the recipe calls for onions and potatoes that will likely be available at the Suttons Bay Farmer’s market, which is open from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. Saturdays through Oct. 22. If fresh tomatoes are a distant memory, canned tomatoes will have to suffice. Interestingly, it takes longer to cook winter vegetables than it does seasonal produce from the garden. That’s why so many slow-cooking recipes include ingredients such as potatoes, carrots and maybe even beets. Everyone remembers the diced beets served by the “lunch lady” in the cafeteria. Nasty. But roasted beets are an entirely different story. Roasting beets intensifies their flavor, brings out their earthy sweetness, and makes their skins as easy to peel off as an oversized sweater. How’s is it done? Start with beets that are firm and feel heavy for their size. If the beets came with their greens still attached, cut off the greens, wash them, and reserve them for another use. Rinse any dirt or debris from the beets – some beets may need to be scrubbed clean. Put beets on a large piece of aluminum foil and preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Cook until tender. Following are autumn recipes from selected Leelanau County cookbooks.


Spareribs and Cabbage 4 lg. onions, coarsely chopped 1 big slab ribs, or 2 pkg. country ribs or some of both 2 lg. cans whole or pieces tomatoes, or fresh or frozen 1 very lg. head cabbage coarsley chopped 6 potatoes, peeled & cut into lg. chunks 3 bay leaves Put onions and ribs in large pot with tomatoes, 2 cups water, salt, pepper and bay leaves. Cook over medium heat 1 1/2 hours; add cabbage and cook for 1/2 hour. Add potatoes; cook another hour, or until everything is tender. Serve with crusty bread or rolls. Great leftovers! Got a big family? Double everything and you’ll still have some left. Nina Rathnaw, Suttons Bay from Thyme and Tradition, St. Mary Parish and School cookbook

Potluck Spareribs 6 lbs. spareribs or country-style boneless pork strips 11/2 cups of ketchup 3/4 cup packed brown sugar 1/2 cup vinegar 1/2 cup honey 1/3 cup soy sauce 1 1/2 tsp. ground ginger 1 tsp. salt 3/4 tsp. ground mustard 1/2 tsp garlic powder 1/4 tsp. pepper Cut ribs into serving-size pieces; place with the meaty-side up on racks in two greased 9-by-13-by-2 inch baking pans. Cover tightly with foil. Bake at 350 degrees for 11/4 hours or until meat is tender. Drain; removed racks and return ribs to pans. Combine remaining ingredients; pour over ribs. Return to the oven, uncovered for 35 minutes or until sauce coats ribs, basting occasionally. Ribs can also be grilled over medium-hot coals on grill for the last 35 minutes, instead of baking. Yield: 12 servings. Sauce is great for chicken as well. Peggy Zemanek, Cedar from Thyme and Tradition

(Continued on Page 46)

Leelanau Color Tour 2011

Slow down when cooking (Continued from Page 45)

Oven Beef Stew 2 lbs. beef stew meat 1 16-ounce can tomato juice or V-8 carrots celery

100 year-old inn

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green pepper potatoes onions beef bouillon (optional)

Put meat on bottom of roaster; top with vegetables, salt and pepper to taste. Sprinkle with some Italian seasoning* and oregano; add 3 Tbls. Minute Tapioca. Beef bouillon is optional. Put on lid and bake for fours hours at 250 degrees. * Paprika, parsley, garlic, bayleaf or other seasoning may be used in place of Italian seasoning.

Menu changes daily

Martha Schaub, Lake Leelanau from Thyme and Tradition

Also serving

Soups Appetizers Sandwiches Salads Lighter side menu always available Child’s menu available Full bar including local wines

Yankee Pot Roast 4 to 5 boneless chuck roast 1 Tbl. salt 1 tsp. pepper 2 Tbls. cooking oil 1 to 2 cans french onion soup

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1/2 cup dry wine 4 to 5 potatoes, halved 4 to 5 carrots 4 to 5 small onions flour & water for gravy

Brown meat in oil; coat with salt and pepper. Add one can of soup and 1/2 cup dry wine. Simmer for two to three hours on top of stove, covered. Add potatoes, carrots and oinions. Add second can of soup and more wine, if desired. Cook covered for about one hour. When meat is tender and remove meat and vegetables Make gravy by thickening juices with flour and water. Excellent company dinner.

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Gloria Hunt, from Thyme and Tradition

Southland Baked Steak 2 lbs. round steak salt & pepper 2 cups sliced onions 1 lemon, sliced 1/2 cup butter

2 tbls. prepared mustard 1 cup chili sauce 1 Tbl. Worcestershire sauce 1 tsp. chili powder 1 cup tomato sauce

Cut steak into serving pieces and put in a large casserole dish. Top with lemon and onion slices. Cream together butter and mustard; add sauces and chili powder. Pour over onions and lemon; add tomato juice. Bake at 350 degrees for 21/2 hours. Cover for the first hour. Recipe from Tasty Treasures cookbook, Immanuel Lutheran Church, Leland.

Roasted Potatoes with Rosemary & Garlic 12 med.-sized potatoes, peeled 3 Tbls. butter 3 cloves chopped garlic 1 tsp. paprika

8500 E. Kolarik Road - Suttons Bay

Mass Schedule: Sunday at 8 a.m. 271-3574

Preheat oven to 425. Make five to eight deep crosswise cuts on top of each potato. Do not cut all the way through. Place potatoes in 13-by-9-inch roasting pan. In saucepan melt butter over medium heat. Add garlic, paprika, salt and pepper; cook until garlic is golden. Brush potatoes with two teaspoons butter mixture. In same saucepan, add chicken broth and rosemary to remaining butter mixture. Heat to boiling over medium heat. Pour butter-chicken mixture over potatoes; coat evenly. Bake potatoes for one hour or until golden brown and all liquid has evaporated. Recipe by Jenni Doran from Tasty Treasures cookbook


Leelanau Color Tour 2011

3/4 tsp salt 1/2 tsp. pepper 1 cup chicken broth 1 Tbl. rosemary leaves


Growing spectator sport:


For Jack Klang of Suttons Bay, almost nothing beats a boat ride offshore of the Leelanau Peninsula during fall color season. A nationally-known boating writer and sailing instructor, Klang has spent nearly half a century of autumns enjoying the fall foliage while on the water. “When the trees turn color and the sun is out,

it’s just spectacular,” Klang said. “The blue water and the blue sky added to the colorful trees ashore make it unforgettable.” This fall, Klang planned to spend some time in Annapolis, Md., lecturing at a national boat show, and expected to miss some of the fall colors back home in Leelanau County. “One of the things people need to be sure of if they venture out onto the water past the first of October is whether their insurance policy is

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(Continued on Page 48)

102 W. Nagonaba, Northport 47


By Eric Carlson

still in force on their boat,” Klang noted. “If they have a smaller boat or it’s covered under their homeowner’s insurance policy, they’re probably okay. But if they have a yacht policy for a boat over, say, 26 feet in length, they need to double-check how long insurance coverage will extend into the fall.” Indeed, by the time color tour season begins in Leelanau County, many people have already hauled their boats out of the water. Only a few hearty souls continue to ply the Lake Michigan waters surrounding the Leelanau Peninsula as well as the county’s many inland lakes — although that may be changing. Color touring by boat seems to be getting more and more popular each year, according to Leland harbormaster Russ Dzuba. Because the Leland marina is a state-recognized “harbor of refuge,” it remains available to boaters on the Great Lakes all year long. “Every year, “Dzuba said, “we find ourselves accommodating more yachts coming down from Bay Harbor and Harbor Springs up on Little Traverse Bay — and even farther away — well into the fall.” Not only are boaters enjoying the colors along the shoreline as they cruise off Leelanau County, boaters are also stopping at Leelanau County harbors in the fall as part of wine tours, according to Dzuba. “We try to provide as much service to boaters as possible, and that includes arranging for

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(Continued from Page 47)

Maple City Health and Fitness Center You r

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transportation from the marina to local wineries. What I’ve been seeing in the past few years is that the same people who like to do color tours by boat are also interested in visiting our wineries – it’s the same demographic,” he said. However, it’s especially important about Oct. 1 to begin paying close attention to the weather and dress accordingly, according to Northport harbormaster Marv Wittig. “About the time the fall color season begins, the wind seems to shift from the northwest to the northeast, and the weather is a lot more unpredictable,” Wittig said. “There certainly are a lot of boaters who enjoy viewing the fall color well into October, but you really need to pick your day.” The seasonal shift in winds especially affects Northport which becomes more exposed to a northeast wind. In fact, the wind sometimes blows directly into the Northport Harbor once color season begins, while the shoreline and harbors on the western side of the peninsula remain in the lee – that is, protected from the wind. Unlike the Leland marina, the Northport marina officially closes on Oct. 25 – usually right after color season peaks. Even if the marina isn’t fully manned towards the end of the color season, it’s still possible to use the launch ramps. Heading south along the eastern side of the Leelanau Peninsula, more shelter from the northeast winds can be found in Omena and Suttons Bay – along with drop-dead gorgeous views of the colorful shoreline foliage. “Actually, the whole east side of the Leelanau Peninsula is just gorgeous from the water during color season,” said Edie Aylsworth, who manages the Village of Suttons Bay’s marina. A lifelong boater, Aylsworth said she and her cousins make a point each year of taking a fall boat ride from Traverse City all the way up to Suttons Bay just to enjoy the colors. The Elmwood Township marina stays open until Oct. 31 and accommodates fishermen as well as color tourists well into the fall season. The Suttons Bay marina stays open until Oct. 15. Before she started working in Suttons Bay, Aylsworth worked for many years at the Glen Craft Marina on Big Glen Lake. “The boating season can last a little longer on the inland lakes than it does on Lake Michigan because they’re more protected,” Aylsworth noted, “and I can tell you from experience that both Big Glen and Little Glen lakes are gorgeous in the fall. And you just can’t beat a ride up South Lake Leelanau through the Narrows and into North Lake Leelanau,” she added. Which brings us back to Leland. “Of course, the big attraction for boaters viewing the fall colors is Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore,” said Leland harbormaster Dzuba. “We’re always hoping for an Indian Summer around the second week in October just when the peak color season begins,” he said. “The weather that time of year can be a crap shoot, and for most people, it’s the last time they’ll take their boat out for the year,” Dzuba said. “But it’s worth it to keep you boat in the water if you can — just to have that view of the fall colors.” If you don’t have your own boat to enjoy the fall colors off the west coast of the Leelanau Peninsula, there’s still a way to get out there, at least through Columbus Day weekend. Manitou Island Transit offers rides to South Manitou Island aboard the ferry Mishe Mokwa under a concession agreement with the National Park Service. “That’s really just at the beginning of the color season,” said Megan Munoz of Manitou Island Transit. “But we do offer island day trips into the first weekend of October – right when all the deciduous trees out on the island are turning color. It’s just spectacular.”


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Leelanau Color Tour 2011


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Autumn boating has its advantages, including a break from the crowds — although harbor masters in Leelanau County say off-season business is picking up. Outdoor photographer Ken Scott captured this tranquil scene at the Suttons Bay marina, where there is always room in September and October.

Leelanau Color Tour 2011




Friday, September 23

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Leelanau Color Tour 2011

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Leelanau Color Tour 2011


WILDFLOWER WAYFARING Fall walks are a fine way to enjoy still-flowering county

We found this picture of a lady bug on an endangered species on the Conservancy website. Wrote photographer A. Michael Schwartz of Glen Arbor and St. Paul, Minn.: “The threatened Pitcher’s Thistles are beautiful when they are in bloom. They also have a great look when they are drying up.”



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It’s pretty looking up — and • Cardinal flower. Named for its down — on a walk through Leelanau scarlet red spikes, it blooms in late County in the fall. summer usually along river and Just ask Leelanau Conservancy stream banks, in or near swamps, or docent Sharon Oriel of Glen Arbor along lakeshores. It’s unusual in Township. She considers fall a preferring full sun, plus plenty of favorite time to lead walks on moisture to keep its feet wet. Conservancy land Cardinal flowers start — and not just blooming in late because of the turnAugust, and usually ing leaves above. continue well into Closer to the September. “It’s ground, bright-coltotally weather ored mushrooms dependent, but peoattract the eye, and ple always love to a new crop of wildsee the cardinal flowflowers are coming er,” Oriel said. On into bloom. Conservancy land, “It’s fun because try along Kehl Lake you see so many or the Teichner different things,” Preserve off Lime Oriel said. Lake. As with spring Goldenrods save their best • Jo-Pie Weed, trilliums, fall wild- for last in Leelanau County. which is much more flowers should not desirable than a be picked. But they weed. Oriel describes do make fine subjects for photo- it as having a milk-weed appearance graphs, and once spotted are deserv- but with a purple-pink flower.” Like ing of their own round of “oohs” the cardinal flower, it’s relatively and “ahhs.” tall and prefers low-lying areas. It So what to look for out there, and can be found blooming on the where to find it? Oriel offered up Teichner Preserve. some flowers that fit in nicely with • Boneset. A tall, white flowering any fall color tour: (Continued on Page 54)

Leelanau Color Tour 2011

CONNECTING CULTURES Fall wildflowers we all enjoy valued for many purposes

By Samantha Tengelitsch

It’s that time of year when we look to the trees for color. However, some flowers you might find in your backyard are putting on a show. Not only are autumn flowers beautiful, some are deeply rooted in culture. According to Kathy Prelesnik, former editor of the Michiganbased publication Wildflowers, “There are several native varieties still in bloom through September and into October.” Prelesnik said the most common of these are native goldenrods. The tall and pervasive plant has leafy green foliage tipped with spires of bright yellow blooms. There are some 100 varieties of goldenrod, several of which are edible. They may be found growing wild or perhaps

have been welcomed into your garden. Goldenrod makes an excellent garden companion as it attracts beneficial insects and birds. Prelesnik said goldenrod is often found with aster in open fields or along the roadside. Lee Boisvert, a local writer and editor who worked with Leelanau County ethnobotanist Keewaydinoquay Peschel, said native people of Michigan valued flowering plants for medicinal, nutritional and cultural uses. “The Anishinabek used the root of aster as a headache cure. It may also be used in kinnikinnick,” said Boisvert. Kinnikinnick, a name which means, “that which is mixed,” refers to the combination of plants used in smudging ceremonies or in petition bags. “European goldenrod leaves are very good as a tea and were

used for upper respiratory troubles,” commented Boisvert, careful to note there are several varieties of goldenrod and that care should be taken to first carefully identify which varieties are safe for ingestion. In addition, Boisvert said there are indigenous sunflowers that may bloom into autumn. “The seeds are very high in nutrients and contain the right balance of those nutrients.” High bush cranberry, blueberries, apples, grapes and sumac also contribute bold reds, blues, golds and purple hues as we transition into the early winter months. For more information on native Michigan plants, please visit:

Plan a ‘walking’ autumn with this line-up Mushrooming at Kehl Lake Tuesday, Sept. 27, 10 a.m. Join local mushroom expert Ed Reinert and docents Holly Pharmer and Lou Ricord and discover the many types of fungi that call Kehl Lake home. If conditions are right, hikers will get a close-up look at the different species of mushrooms that grow around Kehl Lake. Hike at Lighthouse West Saturday, Oct. 8, 10 a.m. Hike ancient glacial beaches and bluffs with docent Ann McInnis to reach a Lake Michigan Beach. The former farmland is part of a large Conservancy corridor project to enhance wildlife

Leelanau Color Tour 2011

opportunities especially for migrating and nesting birds. Color Tour at Whaleback Saturday, Oct. 15, 10 a.m. Colors should be glorious this weekend. Join docents Judy Hoeffler and Roland Drayson for a hilly walk to the top of the forested hill 300 feet above the western shoreline of Leelanau County. Stand on the viewing platform overlooking the Manitou Passage below. Explore Teichner Preserve Saturday, Oct. 22, 10 a.m. Join docents Ann Mason and Jack Schultz as they lead you along the splendid new board-

walk through the wetlands to see tamarack trees in their glorious golden fall color. The wetlands are beginning to prepare for winter - see cattails at their finest and the last of the late summer wild flowers. Fall Colors at Chippewa Run Sunday, Oct. 30, 1 p.m. Conservancy docents Lou Ricord and Jack Schultz will discuss fall color topics as they explore the 110-acre Chippewa Run Natural Area, which has wetlands, streams and ponds, old fields, red pine and spruce/fir stands, hardwoods and an old apple orchard.


Leelanau Conservancy docentled walks provide an appreciation for fall colors and wildflowers.

Fall walks (Continued from Page 53) plant, the boneset got its name because people once thought it helpful in fighting against a tropical fever — which says something about how widespread it is. Again, the Teichner Preserve is a good place to look. • Asters. Think they’re only for your garden? Think again. Asters are widespread in the wild. In fact, the common chicory, with its purple flower found along roadsides in Leelanau County, comes from the aster family. Species come in a wide range of colors, from yellows to purples. • Goldenrod is probably the most common wildflower of fall, but did you know that 11 species are found in Leelanau County? That’s enough for the Conservancy to hold a special “goldenrod walk” in the Chippewa Run Nature Preserve near Empire.

The book with a bloom’n calendar

Learning about fall flowers firsthand is certainly a fun investment of time. But what if you’re busy on days when the Leelanau Conservancy is planning their guided walks? Conservancy docent Sharon Oriel suggests picking up a book with a corny name: “What’s Doin’ the Bloom’n,” by Clayton R. and Michele Oslund. “It’s for wildflowers of the upper Midwest,” said Oriel, “and the flowers are in there by the season they bloom.” Clayton Oslund is a retired botony and horticulture professor from the University of Minnesota. He and his wife are accomplished gardeners.

The Diamond Alkali, seen above, discharging its cargo at the dock in Greilickville about 75 years ago. A self-unloading vessel could discharge their cargos virtually anywhere.

TAKE A HISTORY TOUR ON THE GREAT LAKES M-22 is a unique highway. In a number of respects. Today it’s known as part of the Lake Michigan “Circle Tour” of the Lower Peninsula, arguably the most popular mechanized route for taking in beautiful fall colors in Michigan and Wisconsin. The Circle Tour was established in 1987 — and almost overnight became a hit. The tour as we know it today was fully completed in Leelanau County scarcely 60 years ago. The nine-mile segment of M-22 coming into Suttons Bay from the south was the last to be built. It was not intended to replace Center Highway, which traverses the south central portion of Leelanau County, but to supplement it – providing a route unclogged by farm equipment for vacationers and sightseers. It was expected that commercial and local traffic would continue to rely on Center Highway, but this proved to be not quite the case. The scenic, leisurely new alternative into Leelanau County became a major artery to growing Suttons Bay in contrast to much of the rest of the 120-mile popular but still mostly quiet and uncrowded M-22 highway. Construction of the re-located stretch of M-22 required “boat-

loads” of aggregate. Literally. “The cargo vessel Sierra, out of Grand Haven, Sunday tied up at Kelly’s Point, northeast of the village, to unload 7,000 tons of sand for mixing concrete,” the Enterprise reported in its edition of July 14, 1949. The newspaper added that, in addition to this cargo, the Ashley, hailing from Manistique, had delivered several hundred yards of crushed stone. The newspaper went on to report that “Boone and Boone Company of Bingham is hauling from the boats to the job.” The use of ships helped to keep the cost of the project reasonable. Low bidder was Loselle Construction Company of Wyandotte. The Enterprise related that, at the start of the previous month, the firm’s winning bid was $503,731.48. The project was to be completed by the end of the year. Construction proceeded apace and the highway was dedicated in September. State Highway Commissioner Kim Zeigler was on hand, as was State Senator James Milliken (father of Michigan’s longest-serving governor) and State Representative Louis Anderson (father of Northport businessman, George Anderson).

Special events at Suttons Bay included water sports activities and dancing. There was even a Midway, provided by Hiawatha Shows.


A BIT OF IRONY It may be seen as ironic that “small” self-unloading vessels, (Continued on Page 56)


By Jim Brinkman

Leelanau Color Tour 2011

Take a history tour such as the Sierra and Ashley, hastened their own demise by helping build highways that trucks would later use to put all but the very largest of lake boats out of business. Each of the above-named ships was built as a “straight decker” but later converted to a self unloader by Leathem Smith at Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin. Smith’s yard was in Door County, Leelanau’s neighboring county to the west – on the other side of Lake Michigan. The 510-foot Ashley, built in 1909, was converted in 1937. The 440-foot Sierra, built in 1906, was converted in 1929. Once unique, the self-unloading vessels eventually were to become practically universal on the Great Lakes. The first to be built as such from the keel up was the Wyandotte of 1908. The now-historic steamer was a fairly frequent visitor to Grand Traverse Bay, calling at Traverse City and Suttons Bay. The first bulk freighter to be retrofitted with unloading machinery, in 1902, was the woodenhulled steamer Hennepin. The ship sank in 1926 in southern Lake Michigan. It was discovered near South Haven just a few years ago, and found to be remarkably intact. Sturgeon Bay has provided shipbuilding services and repairs and served as “winter quarters” for ships since the 1800s. Old pictures show ships of every sort moored there, including lightships, which guarded the Manitou Passage until “The Crib” was built on North Manitou Shoals some 75 years ago. Sturgeon Bay was headquarters for Captain John Roen. In the 1930s he “mined sand” at South Manitou Island with the Fred Greene (named for another Michigan governor), which was later torpedoed during “the Battle of the Atlantic” in WW II. In the 1960s, his firm won the contract for building Leland’s expanded harbor of refuge. Roen was not only famous for salvaging vessels, but dismantling some of them as well, particularly during the years of the Great Depression.

Leelanau Color Tour 2011

A number of once-popular lake vessels met their end at Sturgeon Bay, including the palatial Manitou – the finest ship ever to call at Leelanau ports on a regular basis. But, times had changed. “By the thirties Michigan had many well built highways and people no longer cared about the pleasure of music and dancing or just resting on the leisurely trip aboard lake ships but preferred to speed up the shores in their own cars,” wrote marine historians Arthur and Lucy Frederickson. “Business fell off and the Puritan and Manitou no longer made money for their owners.” The vast, enduring lake, once called the “Dustless Road to Happyland,” is still there of course, but is no longer used by the masses – except in smaller crafts. Among the more mundane vessels that ended their careers at Sturgeon Bay was the large wooden steamer Mueller. This lumber carrying “steam barge” was once a familiar sight at Empire and North Manitou Island. Door and Leelanau counties have an interlocking marine history that is largely overlooked due to the wide “moat” we call Lake Michigan.

Munson, T.W. Robinson, B.H. Taylor and W.F. White. Shipwatchers would find these names very, very familiar, since each of the men had a vessel named for him. The last of the oldest generation of Bradley boats was built in 1929 and is still in operation today as the Maumee. Last November, it sailed past Leelanau’s east shore, seeking shelter in West Grand Traverse Bay from the larger open lake. It dropped anchor opposite Greilickville until the notorious late season weather abated. EPILOGUE All types of ships and boats have been built or modified at Sturgeon Bay yards and may be found not only as far away as Alaska, but virtually around the world. Smith’s company evolved into the Christy Corporation, and, later, Bay Shipbuilding – the last builder of large ships on the Great Lakes (though none have been built since the 1980s).

THE BRADLEY BOATS For many years, the Bradley limestone fleet was the one most closely associated with self-unloading vessels. Based in Rogers City, they were crewed largely by local men, a number of whom were “lost at sea.” The community was hard hit when, first, the Carl D. Bradley was lost in a November storm on Lake Michigan in 1958, and then, the Cedarville in Lake Huron following a collision near the Straits of Mackinac in 1965. The Cedarville called at the coal dock in Greilickville, as did the original Carl D. Bradley. The newer, larger, Bradley, built in 1927, was the largest boat on the Great Lakes for many years. When the ship’s namesake died a few years later, his pallbearers included B.F. Affleck, S.L. Avery, E.J. Buffington, J.A. Farrell, E.J. Filbert, D.J. Kerr, A.F. Harvey, J.G.


Christy Corporation’s locally most familiar product is the S.S. Badger out of Ludington. Originally built for the Chesapeake and Ohio R.R. in 1952, it is now the only remaining coal-burning ship in the country. Leathem Smith drowned in Green Bay in late June of 1946, when his 38-foot sailing yacht, Half Moon, sank in a sudden storm. He was 59 years of age. Three others also drowned, but Smith’s daughter was able to swim to shore and survived, after about six hours in the water. The Half Moon was located and recovered later that same year. In examining the boat, investigators concluded that it likely sank because of modifications made by a previous owner, whose father was a polio victim and routinely needed a wheel chair. This man was one of the 20th Century’s foremost figures. He was Franklin Delano Roosevelt.

A "must see" collection of original art and fine crafts by 90 of Michigan's finest artists. We have color! Open Daily 10-5 • Sunday 11-4 thru October.

M-109 • Glen Arbor • 231-334-4732


(Continued from Page 53)

Heading home?

The Haunted Lighthouse

Take a little of Leelanau with you.

Sat/Sun – October 15 & 16 10 to 4 pm

Grand Traverse Lighthouse Leelanau State Park Wander the Haunted Basement Activites for children of all ages Hunt the grounds for treasures Take the treasure chest challenge Climb the haunted tower



State Park entry fee required. Fee for Haunted Lighthouse $4 Adults, $2 Children





This is a fundraiser for the Grand Traverse Lighthouse Museum


A “Grand” Grand Traverse Lighthouse Christmas (Leelanau State Park, Northport)

Sunday, December 4th 12 noon to 4 p.m. (An Authentic McCormick Family Christmas)

Name Address City/State/Zip Subscription Rates: $24.00 IN Leelanau County ■ New ■ Renewal

Climb the tower and tour the Lighthouse Santa arrives at 3 p.m. Holiday Music Visit the Gift shop Holiday cookies & refreshments Make your own Christmas ornament

$38.00 Benzie/Grand Traverse counties $42.00 ALL OTHER PLACES

Call (231) 256-9827 for Visa or Mastercard payment.


($10.00 Active Servicemen in Continental U.S.) Mail or deliver payment to: Leelanau Enterprise 7200 E. Duck Lake Rd. • Lake Leelanau, MI 49653



Based on the story written by Bette McCormick Olli in her book, “The Way It Was”: Memories of My Childhood at Grand Traverse Lighthouse, GTLM volunteers will re-create a McCormick Family Christmas of the 1920’s. A fireplace & mantle will be created to hang the children’s stockings, which will be filled with an orange, Brazil nuts and hard candy. The dining room table will be filled with the sight and smells of an actual holiday meal & much more. Doug McCormick & Bette McCormick Olli have provided additional information and guidance to make this a very special Christmas event for all. A special guided tour sheet will be created to allow visitors a self-guided walking tour through each room & read about the many wonderful things occurring during a McCormick Family Christmas.

(Free Admission to Lighthouse) For more information call Grand Traverse Lighthouse 386-7195

Leelanau Color Tour 2011


Fish get ‘turned on’ in the fall Stier said all inland game fish get “turned on” in a different way than salmon once days turn shorter and cool nights move down water temperatures. Included are walleye, perch, bass and trout, the top four inland fish in the county. “Their eating patterns go from when they just feel like eating to eating as much as they can,” said Stier. “The reason for that is the fish have a biological clock — and they know winter is coming.” Two very good fishing lakes in Leelanau happen to be the county’s largest. Glen Lake has been featured on outdoors shows for its perch fishing, and Lake Leelanau’s perch population has been strong in recent seasons as solid reproduction classes 4-6 years ago have reached good-eating size. The two lakes also share good smallmouth bass fishing. But while Glen Lake has been

Wildlife Bonus: A family of otters couldn’t resist the temptation of salmon in the Crystal River last fall. planted with rainbow trout — which have not provided as steady a fishery as many locals would like — Lake Leelanau’s breadand-butter fish is the walleye. Stier said there will be plenty around this fall. “You hear all the rumors all summer about how ‘all the fish are gone’ or ‘all the fish are too small.’ Fall fishing proves them all wrong,” said Stier. Rather watch than fish? Leelanau has salmon watching in

spades — but not jacks. “Jack” salmon are younger fish; only four-year-old king salmon give up a life in the big lake for a lifeending chance at propagating. Favorite places to view spawning salmon include bridges over the Crystal River, along Shalda Creek within the National Lakeshore, Fishtown where tourists patiently wait to photograph one trying to climb the Leland Dam, and Northport creek and marina.

Our Pumpkin Latte is better than Pumpkin Pie!

We also have Pumpkin Ice Cream

“Empire Bluffs at Dawn” by Bruce Taggart

Fine Art and Handcrafts More than 200 Artists

Leelanau Color Tour 2011

Lake Leelanau ( Just East of the Narrows) Narrow

256-2933 58


Open Daily Downtown Empire (231) 326-5428


the secret garden

Fall’s a great time for watching salmon, which seem to clog streams and even tiny creeks in Leelanau County looking for a good place to reproduce starting in mid- to late-September. The salmon are fun to catch, and early in the fall will strike at spawn or even a spoon as a lifelong passion to eat wanes in favor of a new pleasure. But, unless they are still fresh and silvery from Lake Michigan, spawning salmon aren’t much for eating — unlike their cousins on inland waters in the peninsula. “The fall fishing is always the best,” said Cal Stier, owner of “No Fish, No Fee Fishing Service.” Stier is a champion of walleye — literally. He’s entered and won prestigious walleye tournaments held across the state. He enjoys nothing better than taking ‘eyes from Lake Leelanau while staying at the Lake Leelanau RV Park.


vintage holidays at vintage cottage

70 708-203-8277 08 20 203 3 82 8277 77 In the Leland Courtyard Building, 106 N. Main St., Leland MI

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WHEREVER YOU ARE... be there in a


WE'RE READY FOR FALL Local Apple Varieties, Pumpkins, Local Squash, Candy Corn, Apple Cider, Hard Cider, Local Wines, Coffee by the cup, Fresh Baked Donuts and Cinnamon Rolls, Peanut Brittle & Seafoam, Fall Nut Mixes. Candy and MUCH more!



Homemade Soups & Hot Lunches – M-F 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Varieties of homemade Beef Jerky and Hot Dogs from our smoker


Tuesday is Ladies' Day • Wednesday is Men's Day Sunday is Senior Day **Spend $25 or more and receive 10% OFF order** (excludes alcohol & tobacco)

Store Hours: Mon.-Thurs. 9-8, Fri. & Sat. 9-9, Sun. 9-7



Downtown Glen Arbor






231-946-6500 • Leelanau Color Tour 2011


on the







Pick a weekend this autumn, and you’ll have plenty to do in Leelanau — whether through a leisurely drive through the county’s heartland, a circle tour, or one of its many events. And there are plenty of events. We’ve assembled as many as we could find in our annual autumn calendar. New this year, we created a new calendar for art-related events and classes that is found on page 31 of Fall in Love With Leelanau. Following is a lineup of activities and celebrations planned by communities, organizations and businesses around the county. EMPIRE/GLEN ARBOR • Empire Heritage Day will be celebrated Saturday, Oct. 8, from 1-4 p.m. at the Empire Museum Complex in the Village of Empire. The Fire House Quilters will raffle off one of their elaborate quilts, The Baltimore Album, with the winning ticket drawn at the event. Tickets are available at the museum complex located at the corner of LaCore Street and Salisbury streets. The Glen Lake Fire and Rescue Department will hold an open house at the adjacent Empire fire hall. Volunteers will be available to answer questions about the department with some vehicles on display. • Sunday, Oct. 30, 1-4 pm – Halloween in Glen Arbor with area merchants • Monday, Oct. 31 – Empire Halloween Party Empire Town Hall, 6-8 p.m.

Dave Taghon, whose inspiration and perspiration established the Empire Historical Museum, demonstrates how lumber companies put their names on downed trees for Empire Heritage Day.


FARMERS MARKETS A fun activity in the fall is searching for the best pumpkin, or other (Continued on Page 62)

Leelanau Color Tour 2011

Full state of autumn events (Continued from Page 61) fall produce. Leelanau County has many farm markets open including Gallagher’s Farm Market and Greystone Farm. While Leelanau County is a busy place for farmers markets in summer, only one remains open in the fall. It’s located at the end of M-204 at M-22 just north of downtown Suttons Bay. The market is open each Saturday from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. through Oct. 22. GREILICKVILLE • The Great Lakes Children’s Museum did not have its fall calendar in place when we went to press, but offers an interactive story time on Wednesdays at 11 a.m. and “toddler time” every Friday morning. The museum is located on M-22 in Greilickville. Call 932-4526 for more information.

WYATT JELINEK chooses a white pumpkin as his mom Mindy watches during the 2010 Leelanau State Park Fall Harvest Festival. The 2011 festival is scheduled for Sept. 24 from 8 a.m.-5 p.m. at the Leelanau State Park, one of many fun events scheduled for the fall season here in Leelanau County. Leelanau Color Tour 2011

SLEEPING BEAR DUNES NATIONAL LAKESHORE The Lakeshore, fresh off its being voted the “Most Beautiful Place in America” through an online poll sponsored by the Good Morning America television show, has several activities planned for this fall. Call 3265134 for more information. • Friday, Sept. 23 and Friday, Oct. 21, the Lakeshore will host presentations by its Artists in Residence from 2-4 p.m. at the Philip A. Hart Visitors Center on M-72 in Empire. Artists will be on hand to interpret and discuss their bounty of work. For more information contact Lisa Greibel at the park. • Saturday, Sept. 24, noon-3 p.m. the Lakeshore will offer National Public Lands Day. It’s a fee-free day, meaning visitors won’t have to purchase a park pass. Also, the Lakeshore will host a Take Pride in America/ Coastal Clean Up event. Participants who help pick up trash along the Lakeshore’s beaches will be eligible for a free park


pass drawing. • On subsequent Saturdays, Oct. 8 and 15, visitors may join an historic beach patrol. Participants should meet up at the Maritime Museum in Glen Haven from 7:30-9:30 p.m. to learn the history of the U.S. Life Saving Service. They may also participate in a historic boat rescue. Dress for the weather; a park pass is required. • Thursday, Oct. 20, 7-9 p.m., a Lakeshore ranger will host a Star Party. The location for the event has not yet been chosen. LELAND • Saturday, Oct. 22, the Leland Fall Frenzy will take place at businesses throughout Leland. Cider and donuts will be served at businesses as shoppers are invited to watch salmon try and jump up the Leland dam. • Sunday, Oct. 30, the Fishtown Preservation Society will host a fundraiser brunch at the Bluebird restaurant in Leland. For more information call 256-8878. NORTHPORT • The Fall Harvest Festival will be held Saturday, Sept. 24 from 8 a.m.-5 p.m. at the Leelanau State Park. Demonstrations and exhibits on old-time farming practices will be held including honey extraction and blacksmithing. The Fox Island Lighthouse Association will host a pancake breakfast fundraiser starting at 9 a.m. Food will be available through out the day as well. Call 386-5422 for more information. • The Grand Traverse Lighthouse and Museum will host Historic Ghost Tours on Oct. 14, 21-22 and 28-29. Reservations are suggested and may be made by calling 386-7195. • The Haunted Lighthouse will take place Oct. 15-16 at the Grand Traverse Lighthouse. Call 386-7195 for all the spooky details.

AVOID UNPLANNED STOPS ON COLOR TOUR the fall: • Improving County Road 667 from the Benzie County line to M-72; • Resurfacing Herman Road from Pineview Road to Center Highway. The work will be coordinated with Team Elmers, the contractor that is also improving and paving the entrance to Herman Park; • Establishing, grading and applying a gravel surface to what will become the new S. Gilbert Road. The work will be done under terms of a settlement agreement between the Road

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Commission and Wings of Wonder, the raptor and birds of prey rehabilitation service that filed suit seeking to keep the unimproved right-of-way from its facilities. Johnson said work on these three projects will follow the Lakeview and Lakeview Hills work. “Until that is done, we won’t be moving on any of these projects,” Johnson said. The Michigan Department of Transportation has no projects scheduled for state roads in the county this fall.


Most numbered Leelanau County roads have paved shoulders to accommodate bikers, as do all of the state highways. You won’t find a better way to fully enjoy Leelanau’s colorful autumn — or to get in shape from its hilly terrain.

Some of the best fall color viewing in Leelanau County includes its many miles of meandering back country roads. You’ll find most in tip-top shape — and the others are shaping up. The Leelanau County Road Commission will be finishing work on a handful of final projects this fall, which could mean travel delays as visitors and residents alike head out for a myriad of events scheduled around the county. Commission engineer James C. Johnson said work on its biggest project of the year, repaving Lakeview Road and Lakeview Hills Road, should wrap up by the middle of October at the latest. Work has been on-going since the end of July. The road offers wonderful views of Lake Leelanau, and partial views of West Grand Traverse Bay. “What we’re doing now is a lot of the little items. Sometimes those little items end up taking longer because there is a lot of detail work. It all depends on when we can get our workers over there to finish things up,” he said. Three other projects are planned for



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lots new in store for you Hours: 10 am - 5 pm monday-saturday • 11 am - 4 pm sunday 23 1-386-9890 102 Mill Street, Northport (800) 901-8922 63

Leelanau Color Tour 2011

LIST OF ADVERTISERS 45th Parallel Café & Candy World ............ 42

Funistrada ................................................... 36

Mardi Black, Attorney & Counselor ......... 16

Anderson’s Market ..................................... 60

Gabes Country Market ............................... 44

Natures Rentals........................................... 25

Art’s Tavern ................................................ 60

Gallagher’s Farm Market ........................... 44

North End Eatery........................................ 28

Ashmun Portrait Art ................................... 16

Gallery 22 ................................................... 28

Northern Lumber ........................................ 33

At Home ..................................................... 17

Garage Bar & Grill....................................... 4

Northport Building Supply ........................ 23

At The Lake ................................................ 27

Gills Pier Vineyard & Winery.................... 18

Northwoods Hardware ............................... 53

Bay Lavender ............................................. 60

Glen Lake Chamber ..................................... 9

Pedaling Beans Coffee House.................... 58

Bay Shore Pharmacy .................................. 14

Grand Traverse Distillery ............................. 4

Pennington Collection ................................ 63

Becky Thatcher Designs ............................ 32

Grand Traverse Lighthouse ........................ 57

Red Lion Motor Lodge .............................. 63

Bel Lago Vineyard & Winery .................... 18

Greystone Farm .......................................... 15

REO - Gwen Hall ....................................... 14

Black Star Farms ........................................ 21

Grumpy’s Market & Deli ........................... 32

Riverfront Pizza.......................................... 40

Black Swan ................................................. 16

Hawaii Fun Suzy’s ....................................... 6

Riverside Inn .............................................. 27

Bluebird ...................................................... 43

Interlochen Arts Center .............................. 51

Ron Brown & Sons .................................... 37

Bonek Agency ............................................ 51

Jaffe’s Resale ................................................ 6

Roxane Designer Jewelry .......................... 12

Brew North Coffee Shop ............................. 6

Joe’s Leelanau Cigar .................................. 11

Rustic Roots................................................ 11

Buntings Cedar Market ................................ 8

Kampgrounds ............................................... 7

Secret Garden ............................................. 58

Cedar Rustic Inn ......................................... 16

Kiss Carpet ................................................. 66

Sound Design / Audio Video ..................... 43

Cedar Tavern............................................... 44

Korner Gem ................................................ 50

St. Wenceslaus Catholic Church ................ 46

Chateau de Leelanau .................................. 20

LaBecasse ................................................... 24

Stubb’s Restaurant & Bar........................... 40

Chateau Fontaine ........................................ 23

Leelanau Boat Club .................................... 49

Sugar Loaf / The Old Course ..................... 36

Cherry Republic ......................................... 23

Leelanau Chalets & Watersports................ 36

Sunrise Landing Motel ............................... 36

Chimoski Bakery ........................................ 47

Leelanau County Planning Dept. ............... 27

Suttons Bay Artwalk .................................. 30

Circa Estate Winery.................................... 18

Leelanau Enterprise .................................... 57

Suttons Bay Trading Co. .............................. 7

Coldwell Banker / Ann Marie Mitchell ..... 12

Leelanau Family Chiropractic.................... 24

Syncronicity Gallery .................................. 56

Connie Kroll, Realtor ................................. 24

Leelanau Family Vacation Rentals ............ 14

Tamarack Gallery ....................................... 68

Crystal Crate & Cargo................................ 65

Leelanau Historical Society ....................... 55

Tampico Imports........................................... 9

Deb’s Dish .................................................. 32

Leelanau Pie & Pastry Bakery ................... 40

Thistledown Shoppe ..................................... 9

Deerings Market ......................................... 65

Leelanau Sands Casino ................................ 2

Traverse Area Title ....................................... 7

Dick’s Pour House...................................... 13

Leelanau Urgent Care ................................ 30

Trend Window & Design ........................... 67

Diversions ................................................... 60

Leelanau Vacation Rentals ......................... 49

Venture Properties / Perry Pentiuk............. 52

Dokan Jewelry Design ............................... 59

Leland Toy Company ................................. 13

Verterra Winery .......................................... 21

Dolls & More ............................................. 47

Life Story Funeral Home ........................... 13

Village at Bay Ridge .................................. 42

Excel Rehabilitation ..................................... 4

Light of Day Organic Teas......................... 16

Village Inn .................................................. 38

Fall For Art/GL Artists Gallery.................. 26

Lil Bo’s Pub & Grill................................... 49

Vintage Cottage .......................................... 59

Fischer’s Happy Hour Tavern .................... 43

Lima Bean .................................................. 50

Visit Up North ............................................ 63

Fish Hook ................................................... 59

Little River Casino ..................................... 41

Western Avenue Grill ................................... 6

Foothills Café & Motel .............................. 11

MacBeth & Company ................................ 48

Wildflowers, Inc. ........................................ 52

Forest Gallery ............................................. 27

Manor on Glen Lake .................................. 46

Willow Vineyard......................................... 21

Forty Five North Vineyard & Winery ....... 20

Maple City Health & Fitness ..................... 48

Front Porch ................................................. 25

Maple Lane Resort ..................................... 25

Leelanau Color Tour 2011


Words for Words for sharing sharing the the sweet sweet memories memories of of Up Up North North Benzie, B enzie, Manistee, Manistee, LLeelanau eelanau & Grand Bowls”: Grand Traverse Traverse “Word “ Only Only aatt Crystal Cr yst al Crate Crate & Cargo! Cargo! Word Bowl artist Sean Sterzer creates decorative bowls that are adorned with phrases of all things Up North, like a journal of favorite vacations. The beech hardwood is Michigan grown and milled, and hand-lettered here. A memorable gift of Up North memories. Available only at Crystal Crate & Cargo in Beulah!


1-800-SUPREMO 231-882-5294 Mon.–Sat. 10–5:30; Sun. 11–4 262 S Benzie Blvd · Across from the trail in Downtown Beulah

Enjoy all the colors at Deerings Market For For Your Your Fall Fall Season Season Local Local Apples Apples •• Pumpkins Pumpkins •• Organic Organic Produce Produce

Homebaked Homebaked Fresh Fresh Daily Daily Pies Pies •• Cinnamon Cinnamon Rolls Rolls •• Breads Breads •• including including Artisan Artisan

Homesmoked Homesmoked Jerky Jerky •• Hotdogs Hotdogs •• Brats Brats •• Hunter Hunter Sausage Sausage •• Snack Snack Sticks Sticks

From Our Deli Daily Lunch Specials Pizza • Sub Sandwiches • Soup • Fried Chicken

Wine Wine Shop Shop


Great Great selection selection including including local local wines wines

Your Original Hometown Grocery Store! Downtown Empire 65

231 -326-5249 Leelanau Color Tour 2011

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*Manufacturer’s rebate offer valid for purchases made 9/13/11 – 12/12/11. Rebate offers may not be combined; there is a limit of one rebate per qualifying unit. For each qualifying unit purchased, the higher applicable rebate amount will apply. Other limitations and restrictions apply. All rebates will be issued in U.S. dollars, in the form of an American Express® Prepaid Reward Card. **For tax credit details and restrictions and a list of qualifying products, ask a salesperson or visit Hunter Douglas and its dealers are not tax advisors. The tax credit for 2011 is subject to a limitation based in part on the amount of Section 25C credits taken in prior years. It is recommended that you consult your tax advisor regarding your individual tax situation and your ability to claim this tax credit. ©2011 Hunter Douglas. ® and TM are trademarks of Hunter Douglas.


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~ Located On M-22 In Historic Omena ~ (231) 386-5529



2011 Color Tour  

Special Fall Color Section

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