Indian Cosmetologist Journal Digital Nov'25 issue

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Beyond Beauty: Understanding and Nurturing Skin Changes

Skin is more than a reflection of age—it is a living narrative of lifestyle, environment, and care. Every change in tone, texture, and contour reveals the subtle interplay of time and experience. This edition explores the fascinating relationship between science and selfcare, focusing on the skin’s quiet transformations.

FROM THE FIRST STRANDS OF PREMATURE

GRAYING THAT MAY HINT AT DEEPER PHYSIOLOGICAL SHIFTS TO THE DELICATE HANDS THAT OFTEN SHOW SIGNS OF AGING BEFORE THE FACE, EACH FEATURE DELVES INTO THE HIDDEN SIGNALS THE BODY REVEALS THROUGH THE SKIN.

From the first strands of premature graying that may hint at deeper physiological shifts to the delicate hands that often show signs of aging before the face, each feature delves into the hidden signals the body reveals through the skin. Premature graying, often seen as purely cosmetic, can in fact reflect oxidative stress, nutritional imbalances, or the cumulative effect of modern living. Similarly, the hands—constantly exposed to the sun, cleansing agents, and everyday wear—tend to lose volume, suppleness, and even tone over time. With mindful nourishment, regular hydration, and diligent sun protection, these early signs of aging can be softened, preserving the skin’s natural vitality.

The edition highlights often-overlooked concerns— white patches, uneven pigmentation, and darkened elbows and knees—that can affect confidence and skin tone. Understanding their causes, from sun exposure to dryness and friction, allows for simple solutions like gentle exfoliation, moisturization, and sun protection.

These insights emphasize consistency, awareness, and preventive care, promoting a holistic approach that blends proactive care with scientific knowledge, aesthetic practice, and self-confidence.

18 PREMATURE HAIR GRAYING: UNRAVELING THE EARLY ONSET OF A COMMON CONCERN

WHITE SPOTS ON SKIN: UNDERSTANDING HYPOPIGMENTATION AND ITS COSMETIC IMPACT

12

23 AGING HANDS: VOLUME LOSS AND PIGMENTATION

EVEN OUT THE TONE: WHY ELBOWS AND KNEES GET DARK AND HOW TO CARE FOR THEM

PREMATURE HAIR GRAYING: UNRAVELING THE EARLY ONSET OF A COMMON CONCERN

INTRODUCTION

While hair may be dismissed by some as just a physical trait, for many, it serves as a powerful extension of identity. Its length, texture, strength, and style often reflect inner emotions and personal journeys. Haircuts can signify transitions, emotional milestones, or fresh starts, and for those who find joy in haircare rituals, every strand holds meaning. One

concern that has gained attention in recent years is premature greying. Traditionally associated with aging, greying is now being observed in children, teenagers and young adults, prompting questions beyond aesthetics. While silver strands can be embraced as a beautiful evolution, early onset of greying may also indicate something deeper. Known medically as premature canities, this

condition refers to the appearance of grey hair well before the usual age, particularly before 25 in Asian populations. It can begin as early as age 15, often with 15 to 25 grey hairs that gradually increase. While greying after 35 or 40 is considered a natural physiological process, early greying may be the body’s subtle indicator of underlying issues such as nutritional deficiencies, mineral imbalances,

autoimmune conditions or the cumulative effects of chronic stress, inadequate sleep, and sedentary habits. In a world where lifestyles are increasingly demanding, signs of accelerated aging are becoming more visible and hair often reflects these changes first. Rather than concealing these signals, it is essential to understand and address them with intention and care.1

THE SCIENCE BEHIND HAIR COLOR

Hair color results from melanogenesis, the production of melanin by melanocytes and its transfer to keratinocytes. Two pigments control shades: eumelanin (black-brown) and pheomelanin (yellow-red), whose ratios create the full spectrum of hair colors. Melanocytes, derived from neural crest melanoblasts, migrate into developing follicles, where some become pigment-producing cells expressing enzymes like tyrosinase. In hair, one melanocyte interacts with about five keratinocytes (vs ~36 in skin). Melanogenesis is cyclical, tied to hair growth phases: active in anagen, stops in catagen, and remains off during telogen, restarting when new growth begins. Pigmentation mainly occurs in the hair bulb, while melanocytes in the outer root sheath (ORS) stay non-pigmented but act as stem cell reservoirs. Greying often reflects loss of bulb melanocytes despite ORS reserves, suggesting disrupted migration or signaling (e.g., α-MSH). Under triggers like UV or

inflammation, ORS cells can sometimes repigment hair, though success varies, showing the finely tuned complexity of follicular melanogenesis.2

WHY DOES IT HAPPEN EARLY? COMMON CAUSES OF PREMATURE HAIR GRAYING

Premature hair graying, medically termed premature canities, refers to the early loss of pigment in scalp hair, occurring before the typical age associated with natural aging. While graying is an inevitable part of the aging process, its early onset is often a result of multiple intersecting factors that disrupt melanocyte function or melanin production. Below are the most well-established causes:

1. Genetic Predisposition

Genetics plays a primary role in determining the age at which an individual begins to experience hair graying. Family history is often the most reliable predictor; individuals with parents or close relatives who developed gray hair at an early age are more likely to follow a similar pattern. Premature graying tends to follow an autosomal dominant inheritance pattern, which means a single copy of the gene alteration can trigger the condition. While the specific genes involved are still being investigated, mutations or polymorphisms in pigmentation-related genes such as IRF4, MC1R and TYR may influence the timing of melanin reduction in hair follicles.3

Micronutrient imbalances can have a direct impact on melanocyte viability and melanogenesis. Several vitamins and minerals are essential for the maintenance of healthy hair pigmentation:

• Vitamin B12: A deficiency can disrupt DNA synthesis and impair melanocyte function, commonly seen in individuals with pernicious anemia or poor dietary intake.3

• Iron: Crucial for oxygen transport and cellular metabolism; its deficiency may compromise follicular health.3

• Copper: Required for tyrosinase activity, an essential enzyme in melanin synthesis.3

• Zinc and Folic Acid: Involved in cellular proliferation and antioxidant defense; low levels have been associated with premature graying.3

Inadequate dietary intake or malabsorption disorders (such as celiac disease or atrophic gastritis) may lead to deficiencies in these critical nutrients.

3. Oxidative Stress

Oxidative stress is increasingly recognized as a central mechanism in the premature loss of hair pigment. It results from an imbalance between reactive oxygen species (ROS) and the body antioxidant defense

systems. In the hair follicle, ROS generated during melanin synthesis, if not adequately neutralized, can damage melanocytes and their DNA.3

External factors that amplify oxidative stress include:

• Air pollution

• Cigarette smoking

• UV radiation

• Exposure to environmental toxins

Studies have shown that individuals with premature graying have increased markers of oxidative stress and reduced levels of antioxidant enzymes like catalase and glutathione peroxidase in their hair follicles.3

4. Autoimmune Disorders

Autoimmune conditions can lead to the targeted destruction of melanocytes, either directly or through inflammatory responses. The most commonly associated disorders include:

• Vitiligo: Characterized by patchy depigm entation of the skin and sometimes the hair due to autoimmune melanocyte destruction.3

• Alopecia Areata: Often leads to non-pigmented regrowth after hair loss, indicating impaired melanocyte function.3

• Autoimmune Thyroid Disease: Conditions like Hashimoto’s thyroiditis or Graves’ disease are frequently observed in individuals with premature graying, possibly due to disrupted hormone signaling and autoimmune-mediated follicular damage.3

In these scenarios, the immune system mistakenly identifies melanocytes as foreign and initiates an immune response that impairs melanin production.

Modern lifestyle habits and mental health also play a significant role in early hair graying:

• Chronic Stress: Long-term psychological stress can induce the release of cortisol and other stress hormones, which may damage melanocyte stem cells or accelerate their depletion.3

• Sleep Deprivation: Lack of restorative sleep disrupts hormonal balance and impairs cellular repair mechanisms, potentially contributing to melanocyte

dysfunction.

• Dietary Habits: Diets high in processed foods and low in antioxidants can exacerbate oxidative damage.3

• Sedentary Lifestyle: Poor circulation and reduced metabolic activity may influence nutrient delivery to hair follicles and delay cellular turnover.3

The interplay between psychological well-being and physiological health should not be underestimated in the context of premature aging, including graying.

PREMATURE GRAYING EVALUATION

While a few strands of gray hair in early adulthood may not warrant immediate concern, certain signs suggest the need for medical evaluation. Early intervention can help identify underlying causes, guide management strategies, and even slow the progression in some cases.

1. When to Seek Medical Advice

• Noticeable graying before the age of 25–30, especially with a rapid increase in the number of gray hairs.1

• Family history of premature graying paired with other health concerns such as fatigue, weight changes, or skin depigmentation.1

• Accompanying symptoms such as hair thinning, patchy hair loss, or skin changes, which may indicate autoimmune or systemic conditions.1

• Personal or dietary history that suggests possible nutritional deficiencies or chronic stress.1

If premature graying is causing psychological distress, lowered self-esteem or social anxiety, seeking professional support is also appropriate.

2. Basic Tests and Medical Work-Up

A clinical evaluation typically begins with a thorough medical and family history, followed by a physical examination of the scalp and hair. If necessary, a few diagnostic tests may be recommended

to uncover possible underlying causes:

• Complete Blood Count (CBC) – to rule out anemia or infections.1

• Vitamin B12, Folate, and Iron Studies – to detect nutritional deficiencies.1

• Thyroid Function Tests (T3, T4, TSH) – to assess for thyroid disorders.1

• Autoimmune Panel – if conditions like vitiligo or alopecia are suspected.1

• Zinc and Copper Levels – as trace elements essential for melanogenesis.1

These investigations help in identifying whether premature canities is isolated or linked to a broader systemic issue.

ELEGANT APPROACHES TO MANAGING PREMATURE HAIR GRAYING

Premature graying can be beautifully addressed with cosmetic solutions designed to restore the hair natural

vibrancy and mask grays gracefully. These treatments work by gently stimulating the pigment cells within the

hair follicles to enhance melanin production, which helps bring back the richness of natural hair color. Additionally, they reduce oxidative stress that can contribute to the loss of pigment, supporting healthier and more youthful-looking hair.

For those seeking immediate transformation, a variety of hair color options are available. Natural plant-based dyes like henna and amla offer a gentle, nourishing way to cover gray strands, while modern synthetic dyes provide longer-lasting and diverse shades with vibrant coverage. For subtle concealment, strategies like selective hair plucking or periodic salon treatments can be considered.

Other supportive cosmetic approaches harness light-based therapies or special creams that encourage pigment activity and overall hair health, aiming for a slow and gentle restoration of natural hues. These pampering rituals not only enhance appearance but also promote confidence and selfexpression.

This holistic approach to managing premature graying combines pigment stimulation with aesthetic enhancement, helping maintain an elegant and youthful look without harsh interventions.1,4,5

PREVENTION:

Nourish Your Hair with Essential Nutrients:

Ensure a diet rich in vitamins B12, B9, D, and minerals like copper, iron, and zinc, which support pigment-producing cells and melanin synthesis. Antioxidant-rich foods such as leafy greens and nuts combat oxidative stress, a major factor in premature graying.1, 3

Manage Stress Effectively:

Chronic stress accelerates hair graying by increasing oxidative damage. Regular practices like meditation, yoga, and exercise reduce stress hormones, promote scalp circulation, and support healthy hair pigmentation.1, 3

Maintain Scalp Vitality:

Gentle cleansing and scalp massages enhance blood flow and nutrient delivery to hair follicles. Avoid harsh chemical treatments that damage the scalp environment and pigment cells.1, 3

Avoid smoking and excess alcohol, which produce toxins harmful to pigment cells. Shield your hair from UV rays and pollution using hats and antioxidant-rich products to prevent oxidative damage.1, 3

Use Antioxidant-Enriched Hair Care Products:

Topical antioxidants like vitamins C, E, and copper peptides can help neutralize free radicals, supporting pigment cell health when used regularly via serums and leave-in treatments.1, 3

Seek Early Intervention and Regular Monitoring:

Understanding personal risk factors and acting early with nutritional, lifestyle, or medical measures can help slow or manage premature graying effectively.1, 3

CONCLUSION

Protect from Environmental and Lifestyle Stressors:

Premature hair graying, or premature canities, can deeply affect one confidence and social life, often leading to feelings of self-consciousness and lowered self-esteem. Beyond its physical

appearance, early graying may indicate underlying genetic, nutritional, or health issues, while lifestyle factors like stress and poor diet can worsen it. This condition disrupts pigment cells in hair follicles, causing early loss of color. However, with balanced nutrition, effective stress management, gentle scalp

REFERENCES

care, and protection from environmental damage, the progression can be slowed. Early attention not only helps maintain hair natural color but also supports emotional well-being and a positive outlook toward the future.

1. Poonia K, Bhalla M. Premature Graying of Hair: A Comprehensive Review and Recent Insights. Indian Dermatol Online J. 2024; 15(5):721-731. Published 2024 Aug 30. doi:10.4103/idoj.idoj_807_23.

2. Kumar AB, Shamim H, Nagaraju U. Premature Graying of Hair: Review with Updates. Int J Trichology. 2018; 10(5):198-203. doi:10.4103/ijt.ijt_47_18

3. Desai DD, Karim M, Nohria A, et al. premature hair graying: a multifaceted phenomenon. Int J Dermatol. 2025; 64(5):819-829. doi:10.1111/ijd.17580.

4. Chavan D. Reversal of Premature Hair Graying Treated with a Topical Formulation Containing α-MelanocyteStimulating Hormone Agonist (Greyverse Solution 2%). Int J Trichology. 2022;14(6):207-209. doi:10.4103/ijt. ijt_85_22

5. Tobin DJ. Human hair pigmentation--biological aspects. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2008;30(4):233-257. doi:10.1111/ j.1468-2494.2008.00456.x

AGING HANDS: VOLUME LOSS AND PIGMENTATION

INTRODUCTION

Our hands tell a story — of years spent working, loving, and living. Yet, while care is often lavished on the face and neck, hands are frequently overlooked in beauty routines. Aging hands are among the first visible signs of time, exhibiting fine lines, volume loss, pigmentation changes, and prominent veins that can accelerate the appearance of aging.1, 2

As the skin on the backs of the hands thins and loses elasticity, underlying veins, tendons, and bones become more prominent. This natural aging process is further influenced by sun exposure, environmental factors, and lifestyle habits. Advances in cosmetic medicine now offer effective solutions — including dermal fillers, fat grafting, skin resurfacing and vein treatments — designed

to restore youthful fullness, smoothness, and overall hand aesthetics.1, 2

In this article, we delve into why our hands age, what causes these changes and the latest non-surgical treatments that can rejuvenate your hands, helping you put your best hand forward — confidently and beautifully.1, 2

WHY DO HANDS AGE FASTER?

Our hands often reveal the first signs of aging. Unlike the delicate skin of the face, the skin on the backs of our hands is naturally thinner, with less subcutaneous fat and lower collagen. Even subtle loss of volume becomes noticeable, allowing veins, tendons and bones to show more prominently, subtly reflecting the passage of time.3

Sun exposure is one of the primary culprits behind premature hand aging. While the face is often shielded with sunscreen, the hands frequently remain unprotected, enduring constant UV exposure. Over time, ultraviolet rays penetrate deep into the skin, damaging cellular DNA and breaking down essential collagen and elastin fibers. The result is a visible blend of freckles, age spots, fine lines and loss of firmness — subtle yet telling signs of time quiet imprint.3

Frequent washing and exposure to everyday chemicals—like soaps, detergents and hand

sanitizers—gradually strip the skin of its natural oils and protective barrier, leaving it dry, flaky and fragile. Over time, the constant rhythm of daily movements causes the skin to fold and crease in familiar places, etching fine lines that deepen as elasticity fades.4

DAILY HABITS THAT ACCELERATE HAND AGING

Aging hands tell their story quietly but unmistakably. While genetics lay the foundation, it is often daily habits that hasten the visible signs of aging — sometimes without conscious awareness.

➢ Neglecting sunscreen is one of the most common causes. Ultraviolet rays, even through windows, penetrate deep into the skin, breaking down collagen and elastin, leading to pigmentation, sagging, and fine wrinkles.5

➢ Constant exposure to hot water, harsh soaps, and detergents strips the skin of its natural oils and barrier, causing dryness, irritation, and rough texture. Skipping moisturizer after washing leaves the skin fragile and prone to fine lines.5

➢ Poor nutrition accelerates aging by depriving the skin of essential antioxidants and vitamins that support collagen synthesis and repair, reducing elasticity and radiance.5

➢ Frequent use of alcohol-based sanitizers, though essential, dehydrates the skin and accentuates fine lines. Applying a nourishing hand cream immediately after helps maintain moisture balance.5

➢ Daily chores like gardening, cleaning, or washing dishes without gloves expose hands to water, friction, and chemicals, weakening skin integrity over time. This leads to visible veins, tendons, and bones as volume and elasticity diminish.5

➢ Intrinsic changes such as collagen and fat loss, along with extrinsic damage from sunlight and irritants, cause pigmentation, roughness, and visible aging signs. Clinicians use the Merz Hand Grading Scale (MHGS) to assess these changes based on volume loss and texture.5

Youthful hands can be maintained through consistent sun protection, hydration, gentle cleansing, and barrier repair — preserving their smoothness, strength, and timeless elegance.

SIGNS AND PATIENT CONCERNS

The hands are highly expressive and functional, yet they are also among the first areas to exhibit signs of aging. Continuous exposure to sunlight and environmental factors contributes to structural and aesthetic changes in the skin and subcutaneous tissues. These changes often raise patient concerns in clinical practice.

• Prominent veins and tendons

Age-related loss of subcutaneous fat and soft tissue volume leads to increased visibility of veins, tendons, and bony structures. This pronounced anatomical definition can give the hands a hollow or skeletal appearance and is frequently cited by patients as a primary aesthetic concern.6

• Age spots and hyperpigmentation

Chronic ultraviolet (UV) exposure induces melanin overproduction, resulting in solar lentigines, freckles and localized hyperpigmented macules on the dorsal hands. These pigmented lesions contribute to an aged appearance and are often unevenly distributed across the skin surface.6

• Wrinkling and crepey skin texture

Degeneration of collagen and elastin fibers, combined with thinning of the epidermis, produces fine lines that progress to deeper wrinkles. The skin may adopt a crepey, fragile texture, particularly over areas of frequent flexion such as knuckles.6

• Skin laxity

Reduction in dermal thickness and elastic tissue results in visible sagging and decreased skin firmness, particularly over interphalangeal joints. This contributes to loss of natural contour and a more aged hand appearance.6

• Ropy or stringy appearance

Advanced volume depletion and soft tissue loss can result in a ropelike appearance of the dorsal hand skin, reflecting underlying tissue atrophy and contributing to an aged or fatigued look.6

• Dryness and discomfort

Frequent hand hygiene practices, including washing and use of alcohol-based sanitizers, compromise the skin barrier, reduce hydration, and increase susceptibility to dryness, flaking, and microfissures. This can lead to discomfort, heightened sensitivity,

and increased risk of irritation or dermatitis.6

Clinically, these changes are assessed collectively to determine the degree of hand aging. Interventions may include volume restoration, pigmentation correction and skin hydration therapies to improve both functional and aesthetic outcomes, aligning the hands appearance with the overall youthful presentation of the patient.

COSMETIC & MEDICAL APPROACHES TO HAND REJUVENATION

A multi-modal, layered treatment approach is most effective for hand rejuvenation. While many strategies are adapted from facial treatments, the thin, highly mobile skin of the hands requires careful modification.

1. Photoprotection and Daily Skincare7

• Broad-spectrum sunscreen (SPF 30–50) applied daily forms the foundation for preventing further photodamage.

• Emollient-rich, antioxidant-containing hand creams, such as those with urea, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, or vitamins C and E, help maintain skin barrier integrity and hydration.

• Protective gloves during cleaning, gardening, or chemical exposure reduce mechanical and chemical stress.

2. Superficial Resurfacing and Pigmentary Treatments7

• Chemical peels, including lactic and glycolic acid, reduce superficial pigmentation and promote skin turnover. Early intervention can prevent progression of dark spots.

• Microdermabrasion supports exfoliation and enhances penetration of topical agents.

• Laser and light-based therapies, such as Q-switched Nd:YAG, IPL, or fractional lasers, improve pigmentation and skin texture, with careful parameter selection due to thin hand skin.

• Cryotherapy or targeted spot treatments can address isolated age spots effectively.

Hyaluronic acid fillers instantly plump the hands, smoothing fine lines for a naturally youthful appearance.

• Autologous fat grafting delivers longer-lasting rejuvenation, offering a soft, natural feel while requiring tissue harvesting.

• Other fillers, such as calcium hydroxylapatite or poly-L-lactic acid, provide lasting results with different textures and integration.

• Treatment amounts are tailored to individual needs, often with follow-up sessions to maintain a refreshed, elegant look.

4. Combinatorial and Adjunctive Strategies7

• Combining resurfacing with volume restoration addresses both texture and contour improvements.

• Topical brighteners, including hydroquinone, retinoids, or vitamin C, serve as adjunctive therapy after resurfacing.

• Microneedling, radiofrequency-assisted microneedling, or fractional lasers stimulate collagen production and enhance topical efficacy.

• Platelet-rich plasma or exosome-enriched formulations are emerging adjuncts for biologic rejuvenation.

• Periodic maintenance treatments, such as light peels or touch-up fillers, help sustain outcomes over time.

3. Volume Restoration7

LIFESTYLE AND PREVENTIVE STRATEGIES

• Nutrition for Skin Health: Incorporate foods rich in antioxidants, vitamins C and E, and omega-3 fatty acids to support collagen production, maintain hydration and promote overall skin resilience.

• Hydration: Maintain adequate water intake throughout the day and use hydrating creams or serums to preserve skin plumpness and prevent dryness.

• Hand Exercises: Gentle hand exercises or yoga improve circulation, maintain tissue tone and enhance flexibility, helping to delay visible signs of aging.

• Sun Protection: Use sun-protective accessories such as stylish gloves or UV-blocking fabrics during outdoor activities to shield hands from harmful rays while maintaining aesthetic appeal.

• Daily Routine Integration: Consistently applying these preventive strategies ensures hands remain elegant, youthful, and resilient over time.

INTEGRATION WITH FACIAL AND OVERALL AESTHETIC

Hand rejuvenation is not an isolated beauty intervention—it works best in harmony with the overall appearance. Hands are often visible in social interactions, and youthful hands enhance the perception of vitality when paired with a rejuvenated face. Treatments for the hands, when coordinated with facial care, neck, and décolletage treatments, create a cohesive, harmonious aesthetic. By addressing these areas together, the skin appears more evenly refreshed, lending an understated elegance and timeless appeal to the overall look.

CONCLUSION

Aging hands reflect both natural changes and lifestyle factors, including volume loss, sun exposure, and collagen decline. Modern treatments such as resurfacing, pigmentation correction, and volume

restoration, combined with preventive care like hydration, nutrition, and sun protection, effectively restore youthful hands. When coordinated with facial and décolletage care, hand rejuvenation enhances overall aesthetics, ensuring a graceful, elegant, and naturally refreshed appearance.

REFERENCES

1. Har-Shai L, Ofek SE, Lagziel T, et al. Revitalizing Hands: A Comprehensive Review of Anatomy and Treatment Options for Hand Rejuvenation. Cureus. 2023; 15(2):e35573. Published 2023 Feb 28. doi:10.7759/ cureus.35573

2. Rivkin AZ. Volume correction in the aging hand: role of dermal fillers. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2016; 9:225-232. Published 2016 Aug 30. doi:10.2147/CCID.S92853

3. Rittié L, Fisher GJ. Natural and sun-induced aging of human skin. Cold Spring Harb Perspect Med. 2015; 5(1):a015370. Published 2015 Jan 5. doi:10.1101/cshperspect.a015370

4. Samadi A, Khosrowpour Z, Nasrollahi SA, Ayatollahi A, Firooz A. Protective Effects of Moisturizers on Skin Barrier during Regular Hand Washing with Soap Bars. Indian J Dermatol. 2021; 66(2):207-208. doi:10.4103/ ijd.IJD_687_19

5. Har-Shai L, Ofek SE, Lagziel T, et al. Revitalizing Hands: A Comprehensive Review of Anatomy and Treatment Options for Hand Rejuvenation. Cureus. 2023; 15(2):e35573. Published 2023 Feb 28. doi:10.7759/ cureus.35573

6. Bains RD, Thorpe H, Southern S. Hand aging: patients' opinions. Plast Reconstr Surg. 2006; 117(7):22122218. doi:10.1097/01.prs.0000218712.66333.97

7. Kühne U, Imhof M. Treatment of the ageing hand with dermal fillers. J Cutan Aesthet Surg. 2012; 5(3):163169. doi:10.4103/0974-2077.101369.

WHITE SPOTS ON SKIN: UNDERSTANDING

HYPOPIGMENTATION AND ITS COSMETIC

IMPACT

INTRODUCTION

White spots on the skin, also known as hypopigmentation, often appear on the hands, face, or arms. While they are harmless, their visibility can sometimes affect confidence and self-esteem. These spots form when the skin loses some of its natural pigment, melanin, which is made by cells called melanocytes. In some people, melanocytes respond to injury

or irritation by producing more pigment, creating darker patches. In others, they are more delicate and can get damaged, leaving behind lighter patches or white spots. How your skin reacts depends on genetics, natural skin tone, and the type or severity of irritation. White spots are more than just a cosmetic issue, they can have a subtle emotional impact, affecting social comfort and confidence.

Understanding the causes of white spots and the ways to manage them can help maintain healthy skin and confidence. This article explores the common reasons behind white spots, how they develop, and the role of both self-care and management by healthcare professionals in improving their appearance and supporting overall skin health.1, 2

WHAT ARE WHITE SPOTS?

White spots are areas of the skin that appear lighter than the surrounding skin because of a reduction or loss of melanin, the pigment that gives skin its natural color. This change occurs when the pigmentproducing cells, called melanocytes, are either damaged or temporarily stop functioning.

While these patches are usually harmless, their appearance can vary depending on the cause, skin tone, and the extent of pigment loss. Some of the most common types include:

• Vitiligo: An acquired condition in which the body immune system mistakenly attacks melanocytes, leading to sharply defined white patches. These often appear symmetrically—such as on both hands or around the eyes—and are more noticeable on darker skin tones.2

• Pityriasis Alba: Common among children and young adults, this presents as light, slightly scaly patches—often on the cheeks or arms—typically following mild eczema or skin dryness.3

• Post-Inflammatory Hypopigmentation: After an episode of skin inflammation, infection (fungal or bacterial), or injury such as burns or cuts, the healed

area may appear lighter than the surrounding skin. This is due to temporary disruption of melanin production during the healing process.4

• The fungal infection is a common skin condition that causes light, pink, or brown patches, usually on the chest, shoulders, or back. It occurs when a type of yeast that normally lives on the skin grows more than usual, especially in warm and humid conditions. Treatment with antifungal medication is usually effective, but the lighter or darker patches may take some time to fade as the skin slowly returns to its normal colour.5

CAUSES OF HYPOPIGMENTATION

White spots do not appear without cause; they usually result from specific underlying factors or conditions. Understanding these contributing causes can help in protecting the skin and preventing further pigmentation changes. Key factors include:

Skin infections – Fungal or bacterial infections can damage melanocytes or disrupt pigment transfer, resulting in lighter patches when the infection heals.1, 6, 7

Skin inflammation or injury – Conditions like eczema, psoriasis, burns, cuts or other trauma may trigger pigment loss as the skin repairs itself. The more severe or longer lasting the inflammation, the greater the risk of hypopigmentation.1, 6, 7

Autoimmune conditions – In cases like vitiligo, the body immune system attacks melanocytes, leading to pigment loss.1, 6, 7

Nutritional deficiencies – Although less common, deficiencies in nutrients like vitamin B12 or zinc have been implicated in skin pigment changes.1, 6, 7

Stress and lifestyle factors – Chronic stress, repeated skin irritation, or habits that damage the skin barrier may contribute to pigment changes. Genetics and skin tone also play a role: people with darker skin tones may notice the patches more, and there is evidence that an individual’s “melanocyte robustness” (how strong or resilient they are) may be inherited.1, 6, 7

COSMETIC VISIBILITY & EMOTIONAL

IMPACT

Because white spots appear on visible areas (hands, face, forearms), they often become more than just a skin concern—they become a confidence concern.

• On hands or face, even small patches may draw attention and make one feel self-conscious.8

• The contrast between the patch and the surrounding skin is what makes them stand out; darker the surrounding skin, the more noticeable the lighter patch becomes.8

• Societal and personal perceptions of “even skin tone” or “uniform colour” may lead some to feel the spots are less attractive or problematic.8

• While hypopigmentation may not be physically harmful, the psychosocial effect is real. Studies of pigmentary disorders report associations with anxiety, depression, lowered self-esteem and social avoidance.8

TREATMENT FOR HYPOPIGMENTATION

White spots on the skin usually do not cause health problems, but treatment can help improve appearance and even out skin tone.

1. Treat the Cause9

• If caused by fungal infections like tinea versicolor, antifungal creams, shampoos, or oral medicine can help restore color.

• For conditions like eczema or psoriasis, controlling inflammation with gentle skincare and recommended creams can prevent further pigment loss.

2. Support Skin Pigmentation9

• Light-based treatments (phototherapy) may help stimulate pigment in some cases.

• Certain prescription creams can also encourage pigment recovery.

3. Cosmetic Options9

• Tinted sunscreens or self-tanning products can temporarily reduce contrast between white spots and surrounding skin.

• Camouflage products can be used on visible areas for a more even look.

4. Protect the Skin9

• Use broad-spectrum sunscreen daily to prevent further pigment changes.

• Avoid harsh skincare products, aggressive treatments, or excessive sun exposure to protect the skin.

5. Be Patient and Monitor9

• Skin color may take weeks or months to return, depending on the cause and treatment.

• Follow up with a healthcare professional to ensure the treatment is working safely.

PREVENTION FOR HYPOPIGMENTATION

➢ Be cautious with cosmetic or medical procedures that may irritate or injure the skin.

➢ Treat skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, or infections promptly to reduce inflammation.

➢ Use gentle, non-irritating skincare products to prevent pigment changes.

➢ Apply broad-spectrum sunscreen regularly to protect the skin and prevent pigment irregularities.

➢ Cover exposed areas with clothing when spending time in strong sunlight.

➢ Allow wounds or inflamed areas to heal fully before applying aggressive treatments.

➢ Moisturize and protect the skin to support recovery and maintain pigmentation.

➢ Consult a doctor early if you notice areas of lightened skin, especially after trauma or inflammation.

➢ Use doctor-recommended anti-inflammatory creams (e.g., calcineurin inhibitors) during active inflammation to protect melanocytes.

➢ Avoid aggressive laser or thermal treatments that can reduce melanocyte activity; ensure treatments are performed carefully.

➢ Support pigment formation by maintaining a balanced diet rich in copper, zinc, vitamin D and other nutrients important for melanocyte health.

➢ Reduce oxidative stress and protect melanocytes from UV and high-energy visible light by using broadspectrum sunscreen and antioxidants.

➢ After cuts, burns, or chemical treatments, practice

LIFESTYLE TIPS

gentle cleansing, moisturization, sun protection, and avoid aggressive treatments until fully healed to support repigmentation.

In addition to targeted skincare, these lifestyle adjustments support skin health and help you feel more confident:

• Balanced diet: Ensure you get vitamins and minerals that support skin repair and pigment health—vitamin B12, zinc, antioxidants from fruits and vegetables.

• Manage stress: Chronic stress may aggravate skin conditions and influence repair. Practices like meditation, yoga, or any stress-relief activity help.

• Healthy habits: Avoid repeated trauma to the skin (scratching, picking), maintain good sleep, hydration and avoid smoking.

• Body positivity & self-acceptance: Remind yourself that your skin tells a story—scar, patch, mark—and that imperfection is part of beauty. Confidence is the best filter.

CONCLUSION

White spots on the skin are more common than often realized. While they usually do not cause any health problems, their appearance can affect selfconfidence. Understanding the causes, taking practical

REFERENCES

steps to care for the skin, protecting it daily, and seeking professional advice when needed can help manage their appearance and maintain overall confidence. The skin is unique, and with proper care and attention, it can remain healthy and look its best.

1. Rao M, Young K, Jackson-Cowan L, Kourosh A, Theodosakis N. Post-Inflammatory Hypopigmentation: Review of the Etiology, Clinical Manifestations, and Treatment Options. J Clin Med. 2023;12(3):1243. Published 2023 Feb 3. doi:10.3390/jcm12031243

2. Chang WL, Lee WR, Kuo YC, Huang YH. Vitiligo: An Autoimmune Skin Disease and its Immunomodulatory Therapeutic Intervention. Front Cell Dev Biol. 2021; 9:797026. Published 2021 Dec 14. doi:10.3389/ fcell.2021.797026.

3. Givler DN, Saleh HM, Givler A. Pityriasis Alba. In: StatPearls. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; January 25, 2024.

4. Leung AK, Barankin B, Lam JM, Leong KF, Hon KL. Tinea versicolor: an updated review. Drugs Context. 2022; 11:2022-9-2. Published 2022 Nov 14. doi:10.7573/dic.2022-9-2.

5. Rao M, Young K, Jackson-Cowan L, Kourosh A, Theodosakis N. Post-Inflammatory Hypopigmentation: Review of the Etiology, Clinical Manifestations, and Treatment Options. Journal of Clinical Medicine. 2023; 12(3):1243. https://doi.org/10.3390/jcm12031243

6. Veronese S, Aggarwal R, Giovanelli T, Sbarbati A. Hyper- and Hypopigmentation in a Subject with Fitzpatrick Skin Phototype VI: A New Treatment Option. Journal of Clinical Medicine. 2024; 13(4):1036. https://doi. org/10.3390/jcm13041036

7. Gola M, Czajkowski R, Bajek A, Dura A, Drewa T. Melanocyte stem cells: biology and current aspects. Med Sci Monit. 2012;18(10):RA155-RA159. doi:10.12659/msm.883475

8. Thawabteh AM, Jibreen A, Karaman D, Thawabteh A, Karaman R. Skin Pigmentation Types, Causes and Treatment-A Review. Molecules. 2023; 28(12):4839. Published 2023 Jun 18. Doi: 10.3390/molecules28124839.

9. Hartmann A, Bröcker EB, Becker JC. Hypopigmentary skin disorders: current treatment options and future directions. Drugs. 2004; 64(1):89-107. Doi: 10.2165/00003495-200464010-00006

EVEN OUT THE TONE: WHY ELBOWS AND KNEES GET DARK AND HOW TO CARE FOR THEM

INTRODUCTION

Dark elbows and knees are a common yet often overlooked beauty concern. While they are completely harmless, these darker patches can affect confidence, make certain clothing choices feel less comfortable, and sometimes leave

you feeling self-conscious. The darkening usually happens due to factors like friction from daily movement, dryness, sun exposure, and build-up of dead skin, which can make these areas appear rougher and more pigmented than the rest of the body. With

consistent self-care and, if needed, professional guidance, it is possible to improve skin texture, even out the tone, and help these areas look smoother and healthier, so you can feel confident in your skin.1, 2

WHY ELBOWS AND KNEES BECOME DARKER

Elbows and knees often appear darker than the surrounding skin due to a combination of physical, environmental, and biological factors. Knowing these underlying causes is essential for choosing the most effective way to care for and improve the appearance of these areas.

Friction and Pressure

Elbows and knees are areas of frequent bending, kneeling, leaning or resting on surfaces. Repeated friction and pressure cause the skin to thicken, become rougher and increase melanin production as a defensive reaction.1

Dead Skin-Cell Accumulation & Lack of Moisture

The skin on knees and elbows tends to have fewer sebaceous glands and poorer circulation compared to other areas, which means it can dry out more easily. When dead skin cells build up and the area is not properly exfoliated or moisturised, the skin surface becomes dull, rough and darker looking.2, 3

Sun Exposure

Although the face often gets sun-protection attention, the knees and elbows may be overlooked. UV-rays stimulate melanin production, so areas exposed to sun without protection may darken more.4

Inflammatory Skin Conditions or Past Trauma

Conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, repeated insect bites or minor injuries can trigger inflammation in the skin. As it heals, the overlying pigment-production may increase—a process known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).

Hormonal and Metabolic Factors

In some cases, dark patches around elbows, knees

or folds of skin may reflect underlying metabolic or endocrine issues—such as insulin resistance or hormonal imbalance.5

Genetics and Skin Thickness

Endocrine problems, e.g., acanthosis nigricans associated with insulin resistance or diabetes, can cause dark, velvety plaques at the knees and elbows.5

THE COSMETIC IMPACT

Although darkened elbows and knees are medically harmless in most cases, their cosmetic effect should not be overlooked. These changes may:

➢ Lead to repeated self-care errors, such as overscrubbing or harsh bleaching, in attempts to correct skin tone.

➢ Serve as a visible indicator of neglected skin care, including dryness and friction, which can influence

perceptions of overall skin health.

➢ Sometimes be mistaken for dirt or poor hygiene when they actually represent a pigmentary change.

Recognizing that darkened elbows and knees are common and manageable can help individuals shift from frustration to proactive skin care.

SELF-CARE MEASURES

Practical daily steps can help improve the skin tone around elbows and knees. These practices form the foundation for healthier, smoother skin.

Gentle Exfoliation

Use a mild to moderate exfoliate 2 to 3 times weekly on the elbows and knees. For instance, a scrub made of sugar and olive oil works well. Avoid abrasive scrubs, pumice stones, loofahs, or harsh methods, as these may irritate the skin and worsen darkening.

Deep Moisturization

After cleansing or exfoliating, apply a rich, hydrating cream or ointment to retain moisture. Ingredients such as shea butter, lanolin, ceramides, or dimethicone are effective. Incorporate moisturization into your daily routine, especially after bathing when the skin is still slightly damp.

Sun Protection

Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher to elbows and knees daily, particularly if exposed to sunlight. When outdoors or in situations where elbows or knees may press against surfaces, cover them with fabric or seek shade to avoid direct sun exposure.

Reduce Friction and Pressure

Modify habits that cause elbows or knees to rub or press against hard surfaces for extended periods, such as resting elbows on table edges. Use cushions, kneepads, or soft surfaces when kneeling or leaning for long durations. Opt for loose-fitting clothing around these joints to minimize friction caused by tight garments.

Track and Adjust Routine

Before introducing active brightening products, establish the basic care routine (moisturization, sun protection, friction reduction) for at least one month

and monitor progress.

Discontinue any active treatment if redness, irritation, or increased darkening occurs, and revert to gentle skin care.

WHEN SELF-CARE IS NOT ENOUGH: PROFESSIONAL TREATMENT OPTIONS

Before undergoing any professional treatment for persistent darkening of elbows and knees, consult a healthcare professional to assess underlying causes and ensure safe care. When self-care is insufficient, options include prescription topicals such as retinoids to boost skin-cell turnover, tyrosinase inhibitors like hydroquinone to reduce melanin production (with supervision) and lactic or salicylic acid creams

for exfoliating thickened skin. Superficial chemical peels and light-based therapies can further improve stubborn pigmentation but should be used cautiously. Darkening linked to metabolic, endocrine, or inflammatory conditions may require medical evaluation and treating the root cause, including lifestyle changes.

PREVENTIVE LIFESTYLE TIPS:

➢ Avoid prolonged leaning or resting on elbows and knees to reduce friction and prevent skin thickening and darkening.

➢ Wear soft, breathable fabrics to minimize irritation and rubbing on these delicate areas.

➢ Stay well hydrated to support skin moisture and overall health.

➢ Regularly exfoliate gently to remove dead skin cells and keep skin smooth.

➢ Moisturize daily with nourishing creams to maintain skin hydration and barrier function.

NUTRITIONAL SUPPORT:

➢ Consume a balanced diet rich in vitamins and antioxidants that promote skin health and repair.

➢ Vitamins help reduce pigment production, support collagen synthesis, and protect skin from oxidative damage. Antioxidants neutralize free radicals caused by environmental factors, decreasing inflammation and aging.

➢ Essential fatty acids nourish the skin barrier and improve hydration and elasticity.

Together, these nutrients enhance skin tone and resilience, complementing skincare routines.

CONCLUSION

Darkened elbows and knees are a common cosmetic concern caused by friction, accumulation of dead skin cells, sun exposure, dryness and sometimes underlying conditions. Effective steps can be started at home—regular gentle exfoliation, deep moisturization, sun protection, and reducing friction or pressure.

If consistent care over several months shows little improvement, professional guidance can provide access to stronger treatments and help address any underlying causes. With patience and a thoughtful routine, the appearance of elbows and knees can improve, supporting greater confidence in overall skin appearance.

REFERENCES

1. Krishnamurthy S, Sigdel S, Brodell RT. Frictional asymptomatic darkening of the extensor surfaces. Cutis. 2005; 75(6):349-355.

2. Ludovici M, Kozul N, Materazzi S, Risoluti R, Picardo M, Camera E. Influence of the sebaceous gland density on the stratum corneum lipidome. Sci Rep. 2018;8(1):11500. Published 2018 Jul 31. doi:10.1038/s41598018-29742-7

3. Tan C, Xia L. Dermoscopy of frictional asymptomatic darkening of the extensor surfaces. Postepy Dermatol Alergol. 2019; 36(2):232-233. doi:10.5114/ada.2019.84598.

4. Verma D, Sarkar R, Mendiratta V, Srivastava A. Addisonian Pigmentation - The Great Mimicker - A Review. Indian J Dermatol. 2024;69(5):422. doi:10.4103/ijd.ijd_234_23

5. Phiske MM. An approach to acanthosis nigricans. Indian Dermatol Online J. 2014;5(3):239-249. doi:10.4103/2229-5178.137765

Dr. Pallavi Sule MBBS, DDV Dermatologist and Cosmetologist Dr. Pallavi Sule’s Clinic, Mumbai

Faculty

Dr. Dattatray Sonawane MD (Skin) Founder and Consultant Dermatologist La Peau Laser World, Thane

Dr. Abhay Talathi MD, DNB, FCPS, DVD Dermatologist and Cosmetologist SkinSpace Clinic, Mumbai Faculty for Botulinum Toxin Type A

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