Ozark Hills & Hollows August • September 2016 by Ozark Hills and Hollows Magazine

AUGUST • SEPTEMBER 2016

R WE SHA

U E O

C RE

When Steam Power Reigned Manpower wielding Horsepower

Following the Hickory Smoke Trail A Scrumptious BBQ Addiction

Best Foot Forward

Humble Horseshoeing Today

AUGUST • SEPTEMBER 2016

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August • September 2016 | 1

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Ozark

Hills Hollows

Hot Wing Recipe on Page 12 CELEBRATING HERITAGE, FARM AND HEALTHY LIVING IN THE HEART OF AMERICA

Our hope is to provide a window into the lifestyle, passions and beauty of the people and activities that are going on all around the Ozark communities we live in. Our publication is widely available throughout southwest Missouri and northwest Arkansas. Please enjoy this issue -- and if you want to support us, please do so by advertising! NORTHWEST ARKANSAS / SOUTHWEST MISSOURI Rob Lotufo ozarkhillsandhollows@gmail.com 417-652-3083

Our readers are your customers! Ozark

Hills Hollows Celebrating Heritage, Farm and Healthy Living in the Heart of America PUBLISHER Rob Lotufo ozarkhillsandhollows@gmail.com EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Sherry Leverich ozarkhheditor@gmail.com DESIGN AND PRODUCTION Veronica Zucca ozarkhhart@gmail.com

WRITERS AND PHOTOGRAPHIC CONTRIBUTORS Katrina Hine Jerry Dean Kim Mobley Nahshon Bishop Amanda Reese Stan Fine Kayla Branstetter Beckie Peterson Layne Sleeth Steve Parker PROOF EDITOR Barbara Warren

FACEBOOK Ozark Hills and Hollows Magazine TWITTER @ozarkhillhollow INSTAGRAM ozarkhillsandhollowsmagazine ONLINE www.issuu.com/ozarkhillsandhollows

www.ozarkhillsandhollows.com

Ozark Hills and Hollows is published bi-monthly by Exeter Press. In the pages of Ozark Hills and Hollows magazine, we hope to capture the spirit of country living in our beautiful region. Please feel free to contact any of our staff with comments and questions, and pass along any story subjects or ideas to our editor at ozarkhheditor@gmail.com. 417-652-3083 Exeter Press, P.O. Box 214, Exeter, MO 65647 4 |

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Inside:

AUGUST • SEPTEMBER 2016

FEATURES: 10 22 28

A Weekend Getaway in Your Own Backyard! IDEAS ON PAGE 38

42 46 56 58 64

An Evening in the Barn

A New Tradition

When Steam Power Reigned

The Day of Industrialization

Ginseng

The Magical Root

Best Foot Forward

Humble Horseshoeing Today

The Backwoods Blacksmith

Homestead Iron

Aloha to Arkansas

Stand Up Paddleboarding

Century Farms

A Family Heritage

To Doc, From Kate

Archives of the Wild West

What's Going On?

PLUS:

CHECK OUT PAGE 26 BEFORE MAKING PLANS THIS WEEKEND!

32 36 40 48 52 61

Feast of Flavors

Full Menu and Recipes

When Doves Fly

Grey Sky September Morning

Following the Hickory Smoke Trail

I'm Addicted To It

Repurposing Revolution

Renewed Again

I'll Fly Away

A Gospel Legacy

The Bicycle

Part III Staying in the Saddle

Dogwood Canyon

An Ozarks' Paradise

The Dog Days are Here!

How Are You Going to Stay Cool?

IN EVERY ISSUE: COVER: Enjoy a taste of the Ozarks with our Barn Banquet menu. Mouth-watering smoked pork loin with sorghum BBQ sauce with roasted potatoes with sea salt – for a full menu and recipes, turn to page 12.

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A Horsewoman's Journey

Traditions

Backroads and Byways

Desiderata and Lemonade

4 Crawdad Techniques

For the Ozark Fisherman

Good For You

Catch Those ZZZZs

From the Hollow

The Great Outdoors

Back Home in the Hills

On a Gravel Bar Long Ago

August • September 2016 | 5

Celebrating Heritage, Farm and Healthy Living in the Heart of America www.ozarkhillsandhollows.com

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Fighting the good fight

A NOTE FROM THE PUBLISHER

eez, the news these days can be pretty scary. Now more than ever, it seems like really good idea to get back to the basics. We try to be as self-sufficient on our farm as we possibly can, growing and eating healthy food, working hard, appreciating the land and what it gives us. We have a lot of respect for the struggles that our law enforcement, and government are going through, but sometimes their agenda just seems very far removed from our lives out here in rural America. I hope we can all agree to pray for peace, and stability in our country, in the months and years to come. With that being said, not that they are earthshaking, but we seem to have our share of battles right here on the farm. Anybody who has lived in the country can tell you a slew of stories about varmints, insects, and any number of other struggles we go through out here. We have not had any drought or flood in our corner of the Ozarks this year, but sadly I can't say the same for some of our neighbors. The Japanese beetles have invaded, and it's pretty brutal out there. Last year I watched them eat one of our peach trees down to twigs and bare pits. I'm declaring war on them this season. I'm ready with the Sevin and the sprayer, and I'm not afraid to use it. Trouble is, every time I treat my grape vines, field corn and pole beans, we get a rain shower that washes it all off. I plan to stay diligent though, some things are worth protecting. It seems like every year we get infiltrated by a new bug. Aphids, ants, squash bugs, blister beetles. This year, we have almost 200 tomato plants in the hoop house, growing nicely. Spider mites inundated the whole lot of them, threatening to ruin the entire harvest. My wife is much more holistic in her approach to things like this than I am. She has tried several natural, or pesticide free ways to combat the little pests, but in the end, I think it will be a chemical solution that finishes them off. We've had hawks and eagles circling the chicken coop, on the lookout for stragglers. Field rats lopping off pepper plants and dragging them away. We've had a flash flood drown little chickies in their cage. We've been pretty lucky keeping coons, possums and skunks at bay, mostly due to our noisy, hyperactive porch puppies standing watch day and night. Our poor Pyrenees dog, Fluffy, has taken to sleeping all day and acting as sentinel all night to keep the coyotes off of our property, and away from our animals. Its a pretty demanding job, but she's up for it. In the end, with any luck we will end up with a good harvest. Fresh, natural veggies, grass-fed beef, free-range chicken and eggs, lean healthy pork, raised and processed right on our farm. I've even crossed the threshold to preparing and smoking my own nitrite free bacon these days. Like many of our neighbors, we should have a big mess of cucumbers, onions, garlic,tomatoes, potatoes, beans and corn to enjoy, and put up for the months to come. Hopefully there will be pickles and dried spices in the pantry, and maybe even home ground corn meal. It's a battle out there sometimes, but its what we love to do, and it's something we can be proud of. There's a lot of satisfaction in a job well done, and seeing the fruits of our labor. In a basket, in a jar or on the table, we are thankful for all of our blessings, and for the chance to see things grow and blossom, with a little nurturing, some hard work and a bit of good fortune. Robert Lotufo Publisher, Exeter Press

In August By Paul Laurence Dunbar When August days are hot an' dry, When burning copper is the sky, I 'd rather fish than feast or fly In airy realms serene and high. I 'd take a suit not made for looks, Some easily digested books, Some flies, some lines, some bait, some hooks, Then would I seek the bays and brooks. I would eschew mine every task, In Nature's smiles my soul should bask, And I methinks no more could ask, Except--perhaps--one little flask. In case of accident, you know, Or should the wind come on to blow, Or I be chilled or capsized, so, A flask would be the only go. Then could I spend a happy time,-A bit of sport, a bit of rhyme (A bit of lemon, or of lime, To make my bottle's contents prime). When August days are hot an' dry, I won't sit by an' sigh or die, I 'll get my bottle (on the sly) And go ahead, and fish, and lie!

August â&#x20AC;˘ September 2016 | 7

About Our Contributors: Sherry Leverich is a native Ozarkian. Born in northwest Arkansas and raised in southwest Missouri, Sherry grew up on a dairy farm where she developed a love for agriculture and all things outdoors. She writes, farms and gardens on a small homestead with her husband and three sons, and raises produce for a local farmers market with her mom.

Kim McCully-Mobley is a local educator, writer, self-described gypsy and storyteller with a home-based project dubbed The Ozarkian Spirit. The essence of this project is anchored in keeping the stories, legends, lore and history of the Ozarks region alive for the generations to come. She makes her home in Barry County on the Mobley Chicken Ranch with her husband, Al. She is always looking for that next adventure on the backroads and byways.

Katrina Hine is originally a flatlander from Kansas who has come to love the charm of the Ozarks. After high school she worked on two different ranches in Colorado, and then came back to Kansas to work on a commercial dairy. She married a Kansas farmboy who was in the Air Force and moved to New Mexico. Now in Missouri, she and her husband, Randall, have two daughters and one son – who currently serves in the USAF. They have five grandchildren and expect number six in June.

Nahshon Bishop grew up in southwest Missouri around small family farms. Shon graduated from College of the Ozarks with a degree in Horticultural. He has been working for Lincoln University Cooperative Extension in the Southwest Region of Missouri since 2011. Shon also owns and operates Bishop Gardens L.L.C with his wife Heather, which sells early season tomatoes and strawberries, as well as cut flowers to the public.

Veronica Zucca has been an Ozarks resident for over 10 years, moving from Virginia Beach, Va. She and her husband raise their two children in a quiet hollow in Southwest Missouri. When she’s not working as a freelance graphic designer, she enjoys time with her family and all the beauty the Ozarks has to offer.

Rose Hansen is a writer and photographer living on a cattle farm in southwest Missouri. Her work has appeared in Show Me the Ozarks Magazine, Oregon Public Broadcasting, Twin Cities METRO Mag, and more.

Kate Baer is an artist and bucket list kind of gal. She is the mother of three kids and you can find her on Instagram and facebook for all the gory details.

Mary Lowry, originally from California, has made her home in the Ozarks for nearly 30 years. She lives on a small farm, which she loves, with her husband, and two teenagers – and is still learning to garden. She graduated Summa Cum Laude in dietetics from MSU, is a R.D., L.D. and a massage therapist. She has a passion for nutrition, and encouraging others and herself to heal and be whole – body, mind and spirit.

Kayla Branstetter is a born and raised Ozarkian is an avid traveler and local educator who loves spending time with her family, reading literature, and running trails. She lives on a beef and chicken farm with her husband Chris and daughter, Berlin. Many reasons she enjoys living in the Ozarks centers on the culture, the friendly people and the beauty of each season.

Beckie Block was born and raised in the Wheaton area, and is admittedly a small town girl. She enjoys her job in customer service, along with writing freelance and blogging. She admits to always carrying a pen and paper in case she needs to jot down thoughts and ideas to write later. She has three children, two at home and one in Nebraska, where she enjoys going to visit her two granddaughters. Beckie spends her free time in church activities, gardening and baking.

Barbara Warren is a freelance editor with several years experience. She is currently working on her fifth book to be published this winter. She has had short stories and articles published in magazines such as Mature Living and Home Life, as well as being a devotional writer for Open Windows. Barbara is one of the founders of the Mid-South Writers Group, and has been speaker at writers conferences and other area writers groups. She and her husband live on a farm in the beautiful Ozarks, where they raise beef cattle.

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Layne Sleeth is a wildlife and environmental educator, writer, and aspiring homesteader. She grew up in Shell Knob, Mo., and now dwells in the woods of Northwest Ar., with her husband, Brian. In her free time Layne can be found reading, gardening, and planning her next travel.

Amanda Reese has spent most of her life training and teaching with horses. She has also studied journalism and is currently working on two books centered around her love of horses and God. When she is not riding or writing, Amanda enjoys spending time with her husband and two daughters on their farm.

Stan Fine is a resident of McDonald County in Missouri. Born in Long Beach California, he spent his childhood in the west, but went to high school in St. Louis. He then married his high school sweetheart, Robin. There they raised their two sons, David (who passed away with cancer in 2006) and Rob. Stan was a Detective Lieutenant in a St. Louis suburb and attained a Bachelor of Science in Criminal Justice Management, and a Master of Science in Administration. He retired in 2006 and he and Robin moved to Noel. Robin passed away, due to cancer, in 2013 after 46 years of marriage. Stan now plays golf, substitute teaches, and writes, especially in the wee morning hours.

Savanna Kaiser is an author, freelance writer and gardener from the Missouri Ozarks. A homeschool graduate, she's always enjoyed living in the country and working with her family. When she's not writing, she's working at her family's heirloom seed company – White Harvest Seed – in Hartville. She and her husband, Andrew, enjoy taking road trips, growing their garden, and kayaking down the river by their home. They're expecting their first child later this year.

Wes Franklin is a born native of the Missouri Ozarks, where he has lived all of his life. He enjoys reading and writing about local history, especially Ozark folklore and culture, as well as classic literature. He also enjoys shooting blackpowder weapons. He is closest to heaven when roaming the hills and hollows of his beloved Ozarks.

Grilled Jalapeño Popper Chicken BY FORESTER FARMER’S MARKET

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10 Forester Farmer’s Market® boneless, skinless chicken breasts 5 Jalapenos, halved lengthwise & seeded 4 oz. Cream Cheese (softened) 1 Cup Colby / Jack Cheese, Shredded 1 Tbsp. Salt 1 Tbsp. Freshly Ground Black Pepper 1 Cup BBQ Sauce 20 Slices Bacon 1 tsp. All Purpose Seasoning (ex: Lawry’s)

NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION, PER SERVING: 599 CALORIES 27 G FAT 13 G SATURATED FAT 25 G CARBOHYDRATE 1 G FIBER 19 G SUGARS 60 G PROTEIN

Lay the chicken breast flat between plastic wrap, pound the breast until it is equal thickness throughout. This will ensure even cooking. Season both sides of the chicken breasts.

OR STEROIDS

My goal is to provide your family the same quality chic ken that Ma cooked for Dad. Trea t your family to chicken that’s chic ken. r

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Mix the cheeses together; add the All Purpose Seasoning and mix well. Fill the center of each Jalapeno half with the cheese mix Place the pepper on the chicken breast and wrap it up. I suggest placing the pepper cheese side down so it gets completely covered by the chicken. Wrap each chicken breast completely with two pieces of bacon. Start at one end, wrap half the breast and finish the 2nd half with the other piece of bacon. Cook on a preheated 350° grill over indirect heat for 30 minutes or until chicken is done. Turn every 5 minutes and baste with barbecue sauce each time you turn it. Serves 5. Find more great recipes at www.foresterfarmersmarket.com

foresterfarmersmarket.com August • September 2016 | 9

An Evening in the Barn

STORY BY KATRINA HINE

PHOTOS BY PATTI RICHARDSON

In true down-home Ozark fashion, the staff of Hills & Hollows crafted an evening that heightened the senses in a way only the Ozark’s could deliver. The first annual “Barn Banquet” featured a “Farm to Table” dinner prepared by the publisher, Rob Lotufo, and a benefit auction that ultimately raised over $4000 for the veteran’s organization, Heroes On the Water, through generous donations from around the region. The flurry of activity during the previous days filled the walls of an old converted chicken house, now the Exeter Corn Maze event center, with anticipation as tables were transformed into unique works of art at the hands of eager volunteers. It was in so many ways a transition from the birth of a dream to sharing that vision with so many others beyond the mere print of a magazine. The setting was reminiscent of a lighting-bug filled starry night as those in attendance were serenaded by local folk singer, Cindy Tucker. The homey atmosphere brought the front porch feel envisioned by OHH art director, Veronica Zucca, and editor, Sherry Lotufo, with each decorated table revealing glimpses of each sponsor’s notion of down home hospitality. 10 || 10

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Some tables honored rural life with various farm toys scattered amid miniature straw haybales, while others featured nature’s garden bounty and another brought the warmth of Grandma’s farm table with Blue Willow plates on a gingham table cloth. Guests were treated to a blend of neighborly backyard barbeque and Southern cuisine that tempted the nose and teased the taste buds. Each course represented the best of farm bounty coupled with Rob’s culinary expertise, leaving guests pleasantly satisfied. The evening climaxed with a vigorous old-fashioned auction called by local auctioneer, David Stanley, whose sing-song banter encouraged guests to bid on a variety of donated items representing exceptional craftsmanship and generous community

spirit, benefiting the Northwest Arkansas chapter of Heroes On the Water. The organization focuses on assisting wounded veterans in the often difficult task of reintegrating into civilian life through the relaxation of outdoor activities such as, kayak fishing, while working in cooperation with providers of conventional treatment methods. It seemed only fitting that Hills & Hollow’s first benefit advance HOW’s mission with a barn banquet in the natural rural setting near the small community of Exeter, Mo. As the evening wound down and the cool June breeze filled the open event center, guests left with a sense of community, filled with optimism that true neighborly ways are still alive and well here in the Hills and the Hollows of our Ozarks and encouraged by the opportunity to contribute to an important cause. This isn’t the end of the story but the continuation of a long future telling stories about our Ozarks and passing on the benefits to organizations that reveal so much about the character of the Ozarks through their service to others. See ya’all next year!

August â&#x20AC;¢ September 2016 | 11

Feast of Flavors BARN BANQUET

A savory meal filled with a mouth-watering combination of flavors can be as satisfying and rewarding as just about anything. This menu creates a full meal. Prepare it all, or pick and choose recipes to fill spots in your own dinner menu.

Appetizer

Hot wings with Bleu Cheese dressing. Serve on a salad plate with a simple lettuce salad with a delicate balsamic vinaigrette, topped with a hard-boiled farm fresh egg lightly sprinkled with seasoned salt.

BALSALMIC VINAIGRETTE 2 Tbsp. Balsamic vinegar ½ cup olive oil 1 Tbsp. minced garlic* ½ tsp. salt ½ tsp. coarse black pepper ½ tsp. Anchovie paste, or pureed Anchovie* 1 tsp. each finely chopped basil, oregano, rosemary- in season* Whisk (or use food processor if it’s handy) until it is smooth and fully blended. *If using a food processor, throw whole cloves, leaves and filets in, don’t bother chopping! Store in refrigerator until needed. 12 |

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HOT WINGS 1 lb. chicken drumettes ¼ cup Lousiana hot sauce ¼ cup olive oil 1 tsp. coarse black pepper 1/2 tsp. garlic Powder 1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper ¼ tsp. sea salt With a whisk, mix all the ingredients in a bowl until smooth. Put half in a bowl for basting, and ½ in a bowl for finishing. You don’t want the finishing sauce to come in contact with the uncooked chicken! Toss chicken drumettes in ½ of the basting hot sauce mixture. Set them in a baking dish 1 layer deep. Bake at 400 degrees F., for 30 minutes, turn them over and brush generously with sauce, repeat turning and basting after another 15 minutes. repeat another 45 minutes. After 1 hour, or when they are good and crispy, remove from oven and drain. Toss the cooked wings in the sauce you set aside. Serve with bleu cheese dressing and celery sticks.

Dinner

Smoked Pork Loin with sorghum barbeque sauce. Served with Fresh Green bean salad with Lemon, Garlic & Bacon dressing and new potatoes broiled with bacon, sea salt and parsley. Sidled with a fresh tomato salad tossed with basil leaves and balsamic vinaigrette.

SMOKED PORK LOIN 1 lb. pork loin, fat not removed 1 tsp. dry mustard 1 tsp. coarse black pepper 1 tsp. sea salt ½ tsp cumin or 1 tsp cumin seeds 2 tsp. sorghum or molasses 1 tsp. apple cider vinegar Mix ingredients in a 1-gallon ziplock bag, add pork loin and turn it around until coated. Set in refrigerator 24 hours, turning every 4 hours or so. Smoke at 175-225 degrees F., for 6 hours with persimmon, oak or hickory wood, or bake at 250 degrees F., for 90 minutes.

WOODROW'S SPECIAL SHORTCUT BBQ SAUCE 8 ounces KC Masterpiece, Sweet Baby Rays or equivalent 2 ounces Sorghum or Molasses 1 ounce good whiskey or bourbon ½ tsp. coarse ground black pepper ½ tsp. garlic powder a big pinch of red pepper flakes

FRESH GREEN BEAN SALAD 1 lb. whole green beans, 4-6 inches long (no thicker tan a pencil) ¼ lb. bacon, drained and diced 8 cloves garlic, or 1/8 cup minced garlic 1/8 cup lemon juice, or 1 lemon, squeezed lemon slices for garnish ¼ cup olive oil ½ tsp. sea salt ½ tsp. coarse black pepper Boil the beans until tender, but not soft. Drain and set aside to cool. Mix the last 4 ingredients in a measuring cup until smooth. Add the minced bacon and garlic. Toss the beans in the dressing while still warm. Refrigerate until served (in a hurry, this can be served warm). Garnish with lemon slices.

Heat the sauce in a measuring cup for 45 seconds in the microwave. Add the rest of the ingredients and mix well. Serve on your smoked Pork.

B R O I L E D N E W P O TAT O E S 1 lb. small redskin potatoes small bunch of parsley 1/2 lb. Bacon ¼ cup olive oil 2 tsp. coarse sea salt 1 tsp. coarse black pepper Boil the potatoes whole, if they are smaller than a hens egg. If they are larger, half or quarter them so that they can be eaten without cutting. Cook until a butter knife goes through them with little effort. Drain and set aside in the boiling pot. While your taters are boiling, cook the bacon. Drain and dice. Save the grease. Coarsely chop the parsley, saute it in the bacon pan for just a minute. Mix the grease and olive oil until blended. Mix this with the taters in the boiling pot until coated. Add the salt and pepper and stir until it is dispersed evenly. Transfer the potatoes to a large baking dish, and bake at 450 degrees F., for about 20 minutes, until golden brown and tender. Add the bacon and wilted parsley to the potatoes and toss well. Transfer to serving bowl and garnish with some fresh parsley.

August • September 2016 | 13

A Horsewoman’s Journey

“

“Jesus said, ‘You let go of the commands of God and are holding on to human traditions.’”

BY AMANDA REESE

Traditions R ecently, I received an email from a reader asking why equestrians mount from the left side of the horse. This is a great question! The tradition originated with mounted soldiers who carried swords on their left side. If a rider tried to mount a horse from the right side, while wearing a sword, the sword would be in the way. The sensible option was to mount a horse from the left. Mounting from the left is widely used today and seen in both the western and English disciplines. Although mounting from the left is traditionally considered correct, when

Serving your equine needs with specialty feeds, supplements, deworming products and more!

Mark 7:8

”

Photos by Christina Leach Clothing courtesy of Race Brothers

working with young horses it is better to mount and dismount on both sides. God designed horses in such a way that they require independent training on each side of their body. For example, if I work on mounting a young horse from the left side, it will not automatically be comfortable with me mounting on the right. The right side must be independently trained. Training a horse to be mounted and dismounted from either side is beneficial. In some situations it is safer to mount or dismount from one side or the other. Apart

from safety, there are also times it may be more convenient to mount or dismount from a particular side. Additionally, in events such as calf roping, the rider dismounts on the right and mounts on the left. For this event, it helps to prepare young calf roping horses to adjust to riders stepping on and off both sides. While some traditions are good, it is wise to consider the reasoning behind a tradition. I’ve learned just because something is traditional, it doesn’t always mean it is the best way.

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In the opening scripture, Mark 7:8, Jesus was speaking to the Pharisees. They judged Jesus disciples for not following tradition by ceremonially washing their hands. Jesus responded, “You let go of the commands of God and are holding on to human traditions.” Mark 7:8 Although, the Pharisees were considered the religious elite of the time, their hearts were far from God. They took money and belongings from those in need. Wrapped up in themselves and human traditions, they missed the heart of God’s message. The Pharisees let their selfishness and traditions override loving the people around them. Jesus called them out saying, “Thus you nullify the word of God by your tradition that you have handed down. And you do many things like that.” Mark 7:13 In the New Testament, the Bible instructs us to love, “Love the Lord your God with all your heart and with all your soul and with all your strength and with all your mind; and, Love your neighbor as yourself.” Luke 10:27 Love is central and vital to living a life of faith. Not only does God call us to a life of love, but the Bible sums up the whole law of God in us loving God and loving others as we love ourselves. Galatians 5:14 says, “For the entire law is fulfilled in keeping this one command: “Love your neighbor as yourself.” While there are many great traditions, remember to cling to God and His Word. Through Jesus we can step out and sincerely love others. Strive for a loving relationship with God, others and yourself. Love is the greatest!

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State Hwy MM • Exeter, Missouri • 417-846-3959 August • September 2016 | 15

Backroads Byways

BY KIM MCCULLY-MOBLEY

Kate Lehman, Desiderata and Lemonade

hen I was a little girl, growing up at 726 Wilson Avenue in Aurora, Missouri, there was a delightful older lady by the name of Kate Lehman, who lived just a few blocks away. She was a retired school teacher, who often served as a substitute teacher. I was always excited for the start of the school year in the hopes for extra opportunities of talking to her. She had something special that literally drew people to her like a magnet. She read us Little Red Riding Hood, Uncle Remus stories, the works of Beatrix Potter and Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales. Those wanting to contact Kim McCully-Mobley about column ideas or folklore projects can email her at: kmccully75@hotmail.com or jmccully@drury.edu.

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Her hair was gray and pin-curled. She was tall and broad-shouldered. She always wore dresses. She had hornrimmed glasses and red lipstick. She had enormous hands, big feet and a wide, welcoming smile. She moved with grace. She spoke with passion. She was deliberate and regal. Her voice was calming, yet firm. Her presence could not be ignored. I would go to her house in my little travels around the neighborhood; before I was born, my family had boarded with her in what we would call a duplex today – when they first moved to Aurora. She helped them get settled, dished out advice and did her part to make them feel at home. She taught school for several years in Aurora, retiring around 1967. She continued to substitute teach and stayed active as a historian in the community – writing several articles for the local newspaper when the city’s centennial rolled around in 1970. I remember hushed whispers about her being married once to a man who ran off after squandering her money. She never remarried. She never spoke in past tense. She did not seem to have any regrets. I sold her Girl Scout cookies, Christmas cards and plastic cups. She loaned my brother a pair of ladies’ pumps when he played a guy disguised as a girl named Lotus Flower in the high school play. She told me stories of Aurora’s early years and helped launch my love for stories, history and personal narratives of the Ozarks – a place rich with life lessons, long-held traditions and a healthy outlook for the future. I remember one day when I talked to her about my future. She walked over and took this framed tapestry off her wall. It was titled “Desiderata,” which is Latin for “desired things.” She told me life was often messy and unkind. She winked and added, “But it is a fabulous journey. Don’t flinch.” She patted my hand, gave me a glass of freshly-squeezed lemonade. Once I had quenched my thirst, she calmly took my glass and placed her tapestry in my hands. She asked me to read it aloud to her and tell her what I thought it meant. I remember some kind of weak response about being yourself and being at peace with whatever happens.

She sighed and nodded as she put the framed picture back on her wallpapered wall. She said for me to remember this moment and this poem when life hands me lemons. She nodded to my empty glass on the table and patted my hand again – “Make lemonade! You can love people without loving their actions.” Through the years, when people I have trusted and defended, became people I could no longer defend because of lies or a lack of ethics, I would pull out this poem. When I was forced to deal with job changes, death, illness, being robbed or loss, I would go find the poem. When I started high school, I found the poem in the local library and hurriedly copied it to a piece of paper. When I went off to college? You guessed it. I reflected on Mrs. Lehman’s poem. When people I loved did things I did not understand, I pulled out the poem. When my heroes, friends and colleagues disappointed me and I found forgiveness elusive and difficult, out came the poem. I know now why this poem helped shape the lives of politicians, soldiers, actors and world leaders. I know now what she was trying to tell me. She indicated that my years in school would someday come to an end. That high school diploma would be in my hand. College degrees would be completed. “Never quit learning,” she said, adding, “The day you quit learning is the day you will certainly die.”

Desiderata

Max Ehrmann, Desiderata, 1927

Go placidly amid the noise and haste, and remember what peace there may be in silence. As far as possible without surrender be on good terms with all persons. Speak your truth quietly and clearly; and listen to others, even the dull and the ignorant; they too have their story. Avoid loud and aggressive persons, they are vexations to the spirit. If you compare yourself with others, you may become vain and bitter; for always there will be greater and lesser persons than yourself. Enjoy your achievements as well as your plans. Keep interested in your own career, however humble; it is a real possession in the changing fortunes of time. Exercise caution in your business affairs; for the world is full of trickery. But let this not blind you to what virtue there is; many persons strive for high ideals; and everywhere life is full of heroism. Be yourself. Especially, do not feign affection. Neither be cynical about love; for in the face of all aridity and disenchantment it is as perennial as the grass. Take kindly the counsel of the years, gracefully surrendering the things of youth. Nurture strength of spirit to shield you in sudden misfortune. But do not distress yourself with dark imaginings. Many fears are born of fatigue and loneliness. Beyond a wholesome discipline, be gentle with yourself. You are a child of the universe, no less than the trees and the stars; you have a right to be here. And whether or not it is clear to you, no doubt the universe is unfolding as it should. Therefore be at peace with God, whatever you conceive Him to be, and whatever your labors and aspirations, in the noisy confusion of life keep peace with your soul. With all its sham, drudgery, and broken dreams, it is still a beautiful world. Be cheerful. Strive to be happy.

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August • September 2016 | 17

was doing some late season trout fishing one August, and I stopped in a little grocery store called Stoney’s. In between picking out my Baloney & Cheese Lunchable and a Dr Pepper, I saw a handwritten note on the bulletin board that said, “Dove Hunt Saturday, $10.00.” It got my attention.

Staying comfortable while dove hunting is important, but don't take it too far.

When the Doves Fly Grey Sky September Morning BY JESSE WOODROW

I’d been to quite a few Dove hunts, and never really had a great time. But I had heard the tall tales of epic dove hunts, birds everywhere, great shooting, post hunt cookouts, and good fellowship with other sportsmen. In my experience, usually you get out in a field just before the sun comes up, and watch as the sky slowly heats up to “sweltering”, and wipe sweat from your eyes until dusk. You try hard to stay in the shade, swatting at flies and sweat bees. By design, you should be at least 100 feet from the next bucket seat, so there’s not much chance for camaraderie out there. Every once in a while, some starlings or a 18 |

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crow might fly over, and a host of shotguns would swing stealthily in their direction, but no hunter worth his salt would pull the trigger on one of these, much less a pesky “tweety” bird. The occasional Killdeer (sometimes pronounced “killdee”) might swoop down and perform her wounded momma act, drawing attention away from her nest in the danger zone. The buzzing drone of bumble bees and hummingbirds in the honeysuckle and trumpet vines just seem to make the time drag on slower. On my best hunts, I had gotten 6 or 7 shots off, and put 3 or 4 hapless birds in my cooler during the course of a day.

I was on a pay hunt one year, that was supposed to be a humdinger. We were riding coattails on a large manufacturing plant outing, where the field was guaranteed to be a hotbed for doves. A common trick for baiting a field without breaking the law is to sow winter wheat on a fresh plowed field, without turning it over. The doves can spot the white specks on the fresh brown soil from a distance, and it can really draw the birds in on the morning after planting. At dawn on opening day, I passed a hog pen on the way in to the field. In it was the largest sow I had ever seen, sleeping soundly in her muddy waller. I still remember the smell, and thinking that I wouldn’t want to be around that hog much, especially on a steamy, windless day in September like this. On the way out, on the second day of the hunt, I realized the reason for the stench. That hog had been dead for a couple of days, and had swollen up from the heat. The buzzards gathering in the pen tipped me off that Saturday evening. Stinky pig notwithstanding, the hunt was a bust. Meanwhile, the next field over, one treeline to the East must have been baited to the hilt. It was a battlefield over there from sun up until 10 a.m., both days. Some of our guys took pot shots at the sky high birds on their way to that hot spot, but to no avail. To make things worse, our host must have really gotten on the wrong side of the law, because we got raided by the wildlife cops, checking on a report of baited fields. They checked for licenses, then left us in our quiet field to sweat out the rest of the day. They didn’t seen to notice that it was Armageddon time in the next field over. I think the State Representative must have put that party on. An old friend, Dan Shoemaker, used to hunt with a group of us for many years with his younger girlfriend. His sage advice to me was, “You know what the best part of dove hunting with your old lady is? Hunting for chiggers when you get home!” Trouble is, there’s no joy in parasite inspection when you’re doing it by yourself, after eating a can of cold Beanie Wienies, on top of a birdless hunt on a blistering day in a stubbled down cornfield. So those were the highlights of my dove hunts, BS-before Stoneys. I asked the boy at the counter about the hunt, and he gave me directions. “Bring plenty of shells,” he taunted.

I drove down a maze of dirt roads that next morning, in the dark. I had three boxes of shells, and a fold-up hunting chair. I had a very nice shotgun, a Beretta automatic that had never seen much action in its lifetime. I hoped to give it a good workout today – then I saw the line of cars. There must have been 100 of them, which was lot for a private hunt in this part of the county. I set out along the perimeter of the field, trying to find a spot that had 50 feet or more between me and the next hunter over. I was pretty early, but this field was packed. I was feeling tingly inside, like something good was going to happen. I settled into a good spot, in front of a small grove of trees, and set to waiting. The dark blue night sky faded to lighter grey, with a pretty dense field of clouds above us. This could keep the temperature down, and give the birds some cover up there. Perfect. As the stage began to light up, I noticed a large patch of millet in the middle of the field, and quite a few dried up sunflower plants in a small planting next to it. This is what Hunters call “textbook”. My trigger finger was getting mighty itchy. At the barest glimpse of sunrise, the first drove of doves came in.

Like a good restaurant, a crowded field can sometimes indicate a good dove hunting location.

Fire and brimstone rained on those poor critters. Hunters scrambled in to pick up their birds. Again, and again and again. The birds bum rushed the millet, and they got a lead pellet shower. I had to pull the visor on my ballcap down low to keep stray shot from hitting me from across the field. I was getting doubles (two birds with one shot) for the first time in my life!

A Dove hunting outing can be enjoyed by the whole family.

Several times, my tumbling birds would get whacked again on the way down by another hunter’s insurance shot. I could have limited out in about 15 minutes, but I just let the other hunters retrieve the birds while I kept shooting. I had never seen shooting action like that before, and haven’t since. I ran out of shells in about an hour, and even tried coaxing some more from my neighbors, to no avail. Finally, I mustered up the courage to make the gauntlet run back to my truck to get my spare box of ammo. It was like trench warfare out there. Of course, by the time I returned, the shooting had slowed down a bit, but by 10 a.m., I had a limit of doves in the cooler, a big bruise on my shoulder and no more ammo. I headed back to the house and dressed the birds. I wrapped those dove breasts in bacon, and slathered them in Teriyaki. I grilled them, sportsman style, and paired them with a couple of cold Icehouse Lagers. It was a good day’s hunting, even if it just lasted a couple of hours. In hindsight, maybe the best dove day I’ll ever have. If I recall, I didn’t even bring home any ticks, or chiggers. Here’s to grey skies on opening morning!

If you’re in Barry County, I’m for you.

Chad Yarnall (417) 847-3399

August • September 2016 | 19

Crawdad Techniques

for the Ozark Fisherman BY JESSE WOODROW

t's no coincidence that 3 of the 5 largest bass ever recorded were caught on crawfish. Bass love them, largemouth or smallmouth. Heck, even trout and catfish will go out of their way to chow down on one of these buggers. Many of our favorite artificial lures simulate these mudbugs, some more obviously than others. Crayfish in the wild can be tiny, or up to 4 ½ inches long. They can be brown, green, red, or even sometimes blue. Here are a just 4 of the countless ways you can use this tasty crustacean, or a tricky facsimile, to lure big fish onto your hook.

LIVE DADDIES Find a shallow water creek, with a rocky bottom, and turn over rocks. If you are quick, you can snatch a crawdad before he scoots away. Keep them cool if you can, it will help them live longer. Most folks pull off the pincers, making the bug easier for your fish to swallow in one gulp. Put a decent sized hook (#2) right through the meaty part of the tail, seeing as you want to keep them alive and wriggling as long as possible. Make sure that when you present the bait, you are pulling it backwards on the retrieve. You will be working this bait on the bottom, so you will want a couple of split shot sinkers, 1/32 or 1/16 ounce crimped 6 or 8 inches up the line. Cast this bait to rocky bottoms, and creep it back until you feel the bumpity bump. Count to five or so, then set it hard. You will have to rip through the bait, then get your hook firmly through the fish's jaw.

CRANKY CRAWS The Rebel Wee-Craw sets the standard here. Weighing in at 1/5 ounce, this fleeing crawfish imitation can cover a lot of water. It's also available in lots of colors, weights and sizes. I like the brownish, greenish and coppery colors, but water color and time of year can make a big difference. I like to fish these on a sporty, lightweight spinning rig, with 6 or 8 pound test. If you are low on patience for creeping a slow offering, have a lot of water to cover, and not a lot of weeds to work through, this is an action packed bait. A word of warning: in my time on the water, I have probably seen more Rebels hung up in trees and in sunken brush than any other lure. Go figure.

JIG 'N PIG A nice, heavy jig (¼ to 3/8 ounce), with craw-colored rubber tentacles is a good bet for windy days, heavy brush or weeds, or longer casts. Adding a claw-shaped pig trailer makes it even more enticing. They usually leave a trail of salt and oil that bass catch a whiff of, and get extra hungry. You can buy those pork rind trailers in a myriad of colors and flavors, or use a rubber craw, split-tail grub, or the back-end of a plastic worm. Remember, you'll be creeping that mess on the bottom, in a cloud of silt, just like a foraging crustacean. The fish will most likely be drawn to the disturbance, attack it and worry about the color later. The finesse will be in your presentation.

THE CRAW-FLY It may seem like a paradox to fish a creepy bottom dwelling crustacean with a whippy, wispy fly rod. But really, the rod just delivers the bait, and the theory of fly fishing is that the line does the heavy work. The bait just drifts in afterwards, riding coattails on the line's momentum. I like to fish an attractor pattern that is more about movement and color, and not as concerned about realism. I use a sinking line with at least a 6-foot leader and a 4-foot tippet. I like the ruddy crayfish colors, with a #1 hook, pointed upwards. No sense wasting a lot of time unhooking your fly from junk on the bottom of the lake. Gingerly fling one of these as close as you can to a likely cover area, let it sink, then creep creep creep it back. When that lunker ambushes it,set it hard and hang on! On a hot,still day, this may be just the ticket.

Specializing in land, ranches and farms Office licensed in Missouri and Oklahoma Member of two Multi-list Systems

417.226.3363

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Donnie & Tammy O’Brien, agent/owners 26 Peacock Lane, Jane, MO

Got something you want to share? Send letters and photos to Ozarkhhart@gmail.com, or mail them to: Ozark Hills and Hollows, P.O. Box 214, Exeter, Mo 65647

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Big sister Chloe waits patiently with an issue of OHH in a hospital for her baby brother, Aaron to be born.

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Dear OHH, It’s very seldom that anyone picks up a magazine and sees his photo in it and then reads about people he’s known all his life. That’s why I was thrilled to read Beckie Block’s article, “The Schools That Time Forgot,” in the June-July issue of Ozark Hills & Hollows. I went to school at Oshkosh, a one-room country school about five miles west of Wheaton, from first grade through sixth grade when they split the Oshkosh district three ways with some students going to Stella, some to Fairview and some to Wheaton. In the small photo of the 1951 Oshkosh basketball team at the bottom of the first page of the story, I’m the kid with the glasses in the plaid shirt. Melvin Haynes, who was quoted in the story, is the tallest kid on the far left. Melvin and several of his brothers and sisters were Oshkosh classmates and later, Wheaton classmates of mine. When I got to Wheaton, Sharon Kay Stewart (now Lombard), was a classmate. Earlier, Sharon had gone to school at Success. Both Melvin and Sharon Kay were quoted in the story, as was Floyd Hughes, whose mother, Lola, was one of the cooks at Oshkosh when they began to serve hot lunches. For many years when I was a newspaper reporter and Capitol staffer in Sacramento, California, I would tell stories about the very colorful characters I knew as a kid around Wheaton and Rocky Comfort. So after I retired in 2008, I decided to write stories about those people I knew during the 1940s and 1950s, many of whom were my grandparents’ age. They were “country smart” and lots of them were humorous. Finally, in the summer of 2015, my book, Listening to the Jar Flies: Growing Up in Wheaton and Rocky Comfort, was published. It’s on sale at the Wheaton Depot Museum, the Barry County Museum, and online at Amazon.com and Barnes & Noble.com. One of the 31 chapters in the book is titled “Oshkosh School with Mr. Roller and Miz Sampson.” It’s my recollections of two of the best teachers I ever had. In doing the research for “Jar Flies,” I learned a lot about the history of Wheaton and Rocky Comfort and the people who made them into small-town powerhouses in their day. I want to wish Ozark Hills & Hollows a lot of success for keeping the traditions and memories of the Ozarks alive and well. Best wishes, Jimmy R. Lewis jraylewis@comcast.net

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August • September 2016 | 21

Ozarks Hills & Hollows Ad MNP 5529.1 2.31" x 9.75"

When

STEAM POWER Reigned Manpower Wielding Horsepower in the Day of Industrialization

STORY BY SHERRY LEVERICH | PHOTOS CONTRIBUTED AND TAKEN BY JON FIEKER

The use of steam engines for farm labor set in motion a whole new method of agriculture – and that momentum has not declined even to this day.

The creation of the steam engine is what brought about the definition of “Horsepower” so that a tangible comparison could be made to understand the strength of a machine that manufactured power. If you have ever sat on a tractor to do farm work, you can thank it’s predecessor, the big, clunky steam engine, for cutting the roads the tractor now travels.

Fieker threshing crew

The steam engine became obsolete with petroleum powered engines proved more powerful and convenient. But, in it’s heyday, the steam engine revolutionized farming capabilities. In the early 1900s, operators of locally owned steam engines used modern belt driven implements to do harvesting and lumber tasks all over the area.

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Jon Fieker, of Aurora, Missouri, has a family heritage of agriculture in the Ozarks – and his grandfather owned and used steam engines during this era of local history. His grandfather, Edward Fieker, was the youngest of a large family. “He was mechanically inclined. He worked for the Missouri Pacific Railroad when he was a teenager, probably 16 or 17 years old, helping to maintain a section of the line that ran near his home in Stotts City,” said Jon, explaining his grandfathers early introduction to steam power. Edward and his older brother, Ernest, bought a steam engine and contracted out their equipment and labor all over the area...and even into Kansas for the yearly wheat harvest, Jon shares: “Back in the early 1900s, my grandfather and his brother owned a Reeves steam engine that they used to run both a sawmill and a threshing operation. They lived in Stotts City, and they (along with another brother, Fred, of Sarcoxie, Missouri and a crew of local men) would travel around to area farms and do custom threshing. At that time, Southwest Missouri was part of the wheat belt, and vast fields of wheat could be found between Springfield and Carthage, in particular.” The Fiekers Reeves engine was a mobile steam engine, but unlike a steam train, mobility was not it’s main strength. It’s ability to power machines from pressured steam, instead of teams of horses, made their development such a revolution for farming all over the landscape.

This value was adopted by the Scottish engineer James Watt in the late 18th century, after experiments with strong dray horses. One horsepower equals 33,000 foot-pounds of work per minute – that is, the power necessary to lift a total mass of 33,000 pounds one foot in one minute. (from Encyclopedia Brittanica) James Watt was a pioneer within the steam power innovators, and came up with the horsepower comparison to help with the marketing of steam engines.

One Horsepower = 33,000 lb.-ft. One Minute

Drilling for water

The Fieker brothers kept the steam engine operating continuously and would travel when necessary, “They also took their equipment and crew out to Kansas to participate in the annual wheat harvest out there. The engine, thresher and the cook shack would be shipped out by rail at the beginning of the harvest season, and grandpa and his crew would drive out in his Oldsmobile Economy Truck with the men seated in the bed covered like a Conestoga wagon,” shared Jon. With belt driven mechanics, the steam engine was capable of helpful tasks beyond grain harvesting. Jon explains, “In the off season the “Fieker Brothers” could be found sawing lumber with their mill for farmers and builders. At one time, they also used their engine to pump water from at least one of the Stotts City lead mining operations, keeping the mine shafts dry. Additionally, they used the

engine to move houses and barns from one location to another. They likely did many more things with their engine than I know about, as well.” Though the age of steam engines spanned a great deal of Jon’s grandfathers life, Edward did see the advancement of the steam engine...and then the inevitable change to gasoline powered engines. Jon continued, “In the early 1920’s, grandpa purchased a new A.D. Baker steam engine, which he favored over the Reeves engine, as it was more powerful and more economical to run.” Eventually the Fieker brothers moved on from the steam engines into tractors and even owned an auto dealership. “Grandpa sold his Baker engine to a man in the Joplin/Carthage area after the age of steam gave way to gas tractors that became more advanced and powerful enough to handle all of the needed tasks. He would go over to “visit” August • September 2016 | 23

55TH ANNUAL STEAM-O-RAMA in Republic Missouri always held 10 days after Labor Day. This year it runs from Thursday, September 15 to Sunday, September 18. 2016 Features: Ferguson Enthusiast Of North America (FENA), Ferguson Tractors & Equipment, Chase Gas Engines, All Garden Tractors, Garr Scott Steam Traction Engines.

Operating a steam engine takes skill! “Something could blow up,” warns Jon. He explained that it takes about 2 hours to build up the steam to operate the engine. Jon and his brother Dan run the engine every year, and it takes about a week ahead of that event to get the engine ready to go.

A.D. Baker Engine No. 1606 is a 21-75 sized steam traction engine (21 hp nominal, and 75 hp brake), and it has a uniflow style cylinder. This engine was manufactured in 1921 by the A.D. Baker Company of Swanton Ohio. his old engine every once in a while. Eventually, that steam engine was sold, and never seen again,” shared Jon. The nostalgia of this era of time, along with the family history moved Jon’s dad, Fred, along with his brother, Paul, to re-purchase a similar Baker engine in the 1970s and embark on a restoration effort that continues in the Fieker family today. “Fortunately Dad and his brother (Paul) totally restored the steam engine,” said Jon. “The engine had seen several years of neglect and was left outside to the mercy of the elements. It was in a poor state of disrepair, however it was almost entirely complete. It was missing the smokestack, water tanks and canopy,” explained Jon. August of 1978, fully restored with a fresh coat of pain, the Baker engine made it’s debut at two shows; the 19th annual American Thresherman Association show in Pinckneyville, Illinois (near where Fred lived), then it was transported to Republic, Missouri for the Ozarks Steam Engine Association’s annual Steam-O-Rama. After the Republic show, it was moved to Paul’s home in Stotts City. 24 |

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“After the engine arrived in Missouri, Ed Fieker (brother of Fred and Paul) of Mt. Vernon, took a very active role in its upkeep and maintenance. Over the years, Fred, Paul and Ed enjoyed operating their engine and preserving a piece of history in the memory of their father,” shared Jon. Now Jon, along with his brother, Dan Fieker of Highland, Illinois continue to

operate the engine. You can witness the operation of this piece of history, along with several other steam engine engineers, every year at the Steam-O-Rama. “It’s a great bunch of people, we enjoy swapping stories and joking around,” said Jon of the camaraderie that’s part of the Ozark Steam Engine Association that puts on the annual event. “It’s a way to preserve history, and help keep history alive.” “It’s one thing to see a steam engine in a museum or in a field or shed...but when you can feel the heat it generates, see the smoke, smell the grease – hear it run, hear all the hisses of the steam – it’s different... that’s what I love,” said Jon.

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So, What’ s Going On in the Ozarks? 48th Annual Brumley Gospel Sing AUG. 3 – 6 at The Mabee Center Tulsa, Okla. Featuring 29 Gospel Music Groups.

Crane Broiler Fest AUG. 19 – 20 Crane, Mo. Hometown fun, live music and delicious chicken!

Repurposed Faire Festival AUG. 27 – 28 Downtown Monett, Mo. The festival features vendors of antique, vintage and repurposed items, as well as fine art. Demonstrations of Dutch oven cooking, and art projects for kids are just a few of the special features visitors will have a chance to experience.

Washington County Fair AUG. 30 – SEPT. 3 Fayetteville, Ark. Arkansas’ largest county fair!

The 19th Annual Ozarks Celebration Festival SEPT. 9 - 11 Springfield, Mo. This free event takes place on the Missouri State University Springfield Campus. Concert Under the Stars & Ice Cream Social on Friday evening, Annual Craft & Music Festival will be held all day Saturday and Sunday. Live music, farmers market and more!

Steam-O-Rama Steam Engine Show SEPT. 15 – 18 in Republic, Mo.

Special Events!

Exeter Corn Maze Craft Show SEPT. 24 – 25 at the Exeter Corn Maze in rural Exeter, Mo. Handmade crafts furniture vintage items direct sales Expecting 20-30 booths Kettle corn and fresh squeezed lemonade too! Starts at 1 p.m.

5k Color PUMPKIN Run SEPT. 17 at the Exeter Corn Maze in rural Exeter, Mo. Hosted by the Exeter Cheer Squad. Lots of fun and color through the whole run! $25 participant or for a family of 4 or more $15 each. Includes 2 T-shirts, color packet, number bib and a ticket to the maze. Starts at 5 p.m.

The World Champion Squirrel Cook-off SEPT. 10 Bentonville, Ark. Free to the public, 7 a.m. – 4p.m.

The National Harvest & Cowboy Festival at SDC SEPT. 14 – OCT. 29

Bikes Blues and BBQ SEPT. 21 – 24 Fayetteville, Ark. Celebrating their 17th annual rally.

19th Annual Carl Junction Bluegrass Festival SEPT. 24

Branson, Mo. Celebrate the best of the fall season with the nation’s largest festival of 125 demonstrating craftsmen and a salute to the American adventures of the Western frontier.

Carl Junction, Mo. Beautiful Center Creek Park is located at 201 Valley,Carl Junction, Mo. The largest, longest-running Bluegrass Festival in the region! Free admission. Family-oriented, kid-friendly!

The 28th Marionville Applefest

The Junk Ranch Fall Edition

SEPT. 16 – 17 Marionville, Mo. A pageant, parade, vendors, bands, city wide garage sale, contests, kidz zone, and more.”Core of the Community” is this years theme.

SEPT. 30 – OCT. 1 Prairie Grove, Ark. One hundred-plus vendors with vintage, antique, handmade, repurposed, jewelry, boutique and salvage. Friday, Early Shopping Day 12 – 7 p.m. Saturday 9 a.m. - 5 p.m.

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417-451-SWMO (7966)

1241 N Business 49 • Neosho, Missouri

Kevin VanStory, Broker

Good For You...

Catch those ZZZZs

BY MARY LOWRY

ften in our busy lives we neglect to get enough sleep. If undisturbed through the night we will cycle between the deep We believe we can catch up later, or run on less sleep sleep and REM sleep four to six times during the night. Just within without any harm. Most adults need 7 to 9 hours the last few years, it has been discovered that during these two stages, of sleep each night. Children can need substantially our brain cells shrink allowing for more space in the channels in the more sleep. Whether we recognize the brain. This allows fluid to flow more freely importance of it or not, we are not and wash away waste products that build If you have a problem getting to sleep, immune to the outcome of insufficient up in the brain during the day. There is still staying asleep or getting into the deeper sleep. Lack of sleep makes it more much to be discovered about this, but it restorative stages of sleep, the following are some natural things that may help turn that difficult to handle stress, concentrate, may be very significant to our brain health. around. and we are more accident prone. Our Alzheimer’s may be caused by an inadequate memory is also impaired, and we are removal of the waste product beta amyloid in Adhere to a regular sleep schedule and stick to a relaxing bedtime routine. more susceptible to depression and poor the brain. judgement. Severe sleep deprivation may It is in the deep sleep state, that Avoid caffeine, alcohol and heavy meals several hours before bedtime. cause panic attacks, hallucinations and the body also releases the most Human paranoia. Growth Hormone (HGH). This hormone Get sunshine during the day, and sleep in the dark at night. This helps the body make The US Center for Disease Control and is responsible for growth spurts in more melatonin. Prevention has labeled insufficient sleep as children, cell regeneration, organ and Shut down Computer, TV screens and cell a public health epidemic. It is the cause of tissue healing and repair, and overall phone devices at least an hour before thousands of fatal car accidents each year, immune system support. Often, during bedtime. They emit light that can stimulate along with industrial accidents and other the night when HGH is at its peak the brain and suppress melatonin. job-related disasters (Exxon Valdez oil spill is when a fever breaks, and health is Keep the bedroom dark. If you need a night is one example). It raises the risk for chronic restored. light, use a red, orange or yellow light. diseases such as hypertension, obesity, Sleep in cooler temperatures. Ideally 60 to diabetes and cancer. Insufficient sleep 68 degrees F is best for sleep. contributes to insulin resistance which may If worries keep you awake, write them be the cause of these chronic diseases. down in a journal, or routinely pray or There are four stages of sleep. The meditate before bed. first stage is a short transition into a sleep state where we can waken easily. This stage is typically about 5 to 10 minutes long. The second stage our heart rate and breathing slows, and temperature decreases. About 50% of our sleep is in this phase. The third stage is the deep sleep state where brain waves are slowed and blood flow is directed to the muscles. Deep sleep seems to revive the physical body. The final and fourth stage of sleep is called REM (rapid eye movement) sleep or the dream state. During this time the mind seems to be restored. It’s believed that REM sleep helps us remember and make sense of the day and our experiences. Disclaimer: The purpose of “Good for You” is to inform and entertain the consumer on various health topics. It does not necessarily represent the opinions of the publisher Exeter Press. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition or treatment and before trying a new health care regimen.

August • September 2016 | 27

ginsenG T H E M A G I C A L R O OT STORY BY LAYNE SLEETH PHOTOS BY LAYNE SLEETH AND MADISON WOODS

Panax, the genus name for ginseng, comes from a Greek word that means “All Healing”. Since their discovery in the mountains of Manchuria, China, some 5,000 years ago, wild ginseng roots have been highly sought after for their tonic effect on the body and mind. Nearly all of the world’s ginseng comes from China, South Korea, Canada, and the U.S. Panax ginseng is the Asian species of ginseng, while Panax quinquefolius is the North American species. Ginseng habitat in the Eastern half of the U.S. is concentrated mostly in the Appalachians and some in the Ozarks. Frontiersmen Daniel Boone and Davy Crockett dug for ginseng and sold tons of it for profit. Of course, Native Americans had discovered and were using ginseng before its commercial export began in the 18th century. Still today, China is the destination for most American ginseng. The real demand is for older, wildharvested roots – the more gnarled the better. After many changes of hand, the American ginseng roots reach China and can bring in a couple thousand dollars per pound. You can imagine the appeal for rural root diggers here in the Ozarks. Popularity and overharvest is an age-old story we’ve seen play out time and again in the hills and hollers. It’s no surprise that ginseng has seemingly a permanent spot on the United Plant Savers “At-Risk” list. Madison Woods is a local expert on this perennial woodland herb – aptly named, as she resides in the woods of Madison County of Northwest Arkansas. More astute than most 28 |

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about American Ginseng, Madison does habitat consultation, as well as promotes sustainable harvest and use of ginseng. Years ago, she relocated to the Ozark Mountains from Louisiana in the pursuit of growing her own ginseng, reestablishing other at-risk native woodland plants, and wild-crafting*. My husband, Brian, and I met with Madison on an unseasonably chilly day in May, and straightaway started attempting to absorb the herbal knowledge that she was speaking so fluently. She and her husband, Rob, are the sole operators of Wild Ozark – the only licensed ginseng nursery in Arkansas. In addition to selling ginseng seedlings, certified dried roots and

Maidenhair ferns and Christmas ferns (above) are companion plants that grow in close association with ginseng. Blue cohosh (below) is a rare, threatened plant in Arkansas, and a ginseng companion plant. A few other companion plants of ginseng include Doll’s Eyes, Bloodroot, and Giant Solomon Seal.

A three prong with ripe berries in August.

leaves, Madison sells herbal balms, tea blends and home-roasted coffee laced with Wild Ozark ginseng roots or leaves (puts a pep in your step)! The Wild Ozark online shop is also stocked with Madison’s books and articles. She is the author of both incredibly helpful nonfiction, and some diverting Ozarks-inspired fantasy fiction. With Madison in the lead, we traipsed through the woods, sloshed across a creek, and came upon a steep hillside tucked into the north side of a mountain. Here, the woods felt cooler and were visibly darker from the thick tree canopy above. Sprawling Christmas ferns jutted out of the rich humus soil, and red buckeyes and paw paw trees filled the understory. We

Madison Woods stands in front of a ginseng nursery.

had arrived at the Wild Ozark ginseng nursery. As we teetered around on tiptoe between a large patch of delicate young plants, Madison explained that the best way to tell if you are hot or cold on the trail of ginseng is to search for companion plants. Companions are indicators of favorable soil, light, and temperature conditions that they share with ginseng. Ginseng requires about 80% shade, and prefers North and East facing hillsides. The ginseng grown at the Wild Ozark nursery is ‘wild-simulated’ or ‘virtually wild’, meaning that they put the seed in the ground, and let nature do the rest. The seedlings are nearly indistinguishable from other green vegetation covering August • September 2016 | 29

the forest floor (looking at you, Virginia creeper). The older ginsengs are more easily identified when the bright red berries ripen in July, around the time that the noisy cicadas start singing their summer song. Ginseng will only reach up to 1.5 feet tall. It is an extremely slowgrowing plant. When a plant drops seed in September, the seed naturally lies dormant in the soil for two years before sprouting. That first year of sprouting, the ginseng is a small seedling with three leaflets. The following year, the plant will grow a vertical green stem, or prong, with a set of five leaflets at the tops. During successive years, it will grow an additionally prong until it has 4 prongs, each with their own set of five leaflets. However, some plants never grow the fourth prong. The small, nondescript central cluster of flowers is greenish white. The leaflets have a toothed, serrated outer edge, and on up-close inspection you can see tiny, bristle-like spikes coming out of the leaves. The word ginseng comes from

the Chinese “jen-shen”, which roughly translates to “man root”. This is a reference to the human-like resemblance of the fleshy roots. As mentioned earlier, China is the main market for wild American ginseng. The Chinese seek out American ginseng specifically for its purported calming properties. They attribute a Yin value to our ginseng, which is cooling and relaxing. In traditional Chinese medicine, Yin and Yang are opposing and complementary qualities that must be balanced in mind and body to attain good health. The Asian ginseng is said to be more Yang, or warming and stimulating. Ginsenosides are the active chemical compounds in ginseng that provide focused energy, boosted immune function, cardiovascular health, circulation, cancer recovery, and overall body balance. As we examined the plants, trying to distinguish this from that, Madison clarified that root diggers can make around

Wildcrafting:

Harvesting herbs and plants from the wild

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$500 per pound of dry roots, or more, depending on the year and prices. That’s a pretty good lump of cash for a few days spent trekking the deep woods. Prices climb towards the end of the digging season. Thus, there is a serious problem with poaching and overharvest. Year after year, the plant becomes scarcer because diggers don’t use sustainable harvest practices. To prevent its complete extirpation, ginseng must be regulated. It is illegal to dig up a ginseng plant that is under 5-yearsold in both Arkansas and Missouri. The legal season for digging ginseng roots is September 1 through December 1. In rural towns, such as Kingston, Ark., root buyers set up at the town square and examine the diggers’ roots for size, color, density, and shape, then offer a certain amount of money per pound. To dig roots for personal use or to sell, stick to harvesting on private property – with landowner permission only (or stick to your own property). According to the Missouri Department of Conservation, it’s illegal to harvest or possess a plant that has any fewer than three prongs. Three-pronged plants are generally at least 5 years of age, minimum legal harvest age. To get the best price for your roots if selling, you must dig them very carefully, leaving all of the tiny root hairs intact. Many of the old-timers use flathead screwdrivers for digging in order to get in close without damaging the roots. You cannot sell a single root without the neck, or rhizome, attached. The neck is the only reliable way to determine how old the plant is. The number of scars on the neck of the ginseng plant directly corresponds with its years. Each spring, when a prong (green stem) grows, it comes

up in a slightly different spot from the root, maybe doing a quarter turn each year. In the winter when the plant dies back, that year’s scar is left on the neck. For a sustainable harvest that ensures future plants, Madison suggests that ideally only 25 percent of a ginseng patch would be harvested in a season. The seeds from every plant that is dug must be stuck into the soil exactly where that plant was taken from. Buyers are looking for mature roots 10-years-old and older. Remarkably, a ginseng plant may live for 100 years, providing the right surroundings. A cultivated root, grown in a more garden-like setting with shade cloth, is fat and straight, like a carrot. These roots are much less valuable than the twisted wild roots. Supposedly, the harsher the life the plant has in the wild, the more potent its medicinal properties. For personal use, the Wild Ozark team likes to break off a small piece of the dried root and chew on it all day. They also use the leaf in teas and coffee. “The leaves of ginseng are just as useful, for the same purposes, as the root.” says Madison. “Using the leaves doesn’t kill the plant and it’s easy to harvest the leaves sustainably. Chemically, they have the same properties as the root.” However, if you are earning money with ginseng, that requires digging and killing the whole plant. “. . . Great attention to sustainability is important in those cases.” She concludes, “Don’t dig if there are only a few plants. Be a good steward and help the population grow before taking any of it.” Preferably, everyone ought to start their own ginseng patches if you have the right growing conditions. They love well-drained, heavily shaded, steep hillsides. Growing your own ginseng will take some patience. It is a slow process that takes years for a harvest, but ginseng is completely maintenance free if it’s in the right spot. Ozark Mountain Ginseng in Thayer, Missouri is a certified seed supplier. Order your seeds in the summer and plant them in the fall. Eventually, it will pay off, and in the meantime we can re-establish an important native Ozarks herb.

Wild Ozark

madison@wildozark.com www.WildOzark.com

  

Ginseng seedlings Ginseng Info Books

  

Nature Sketches Photography Blog

Reconnect to Nature!

www.ozarkhillsandhollows.com

Ozark

Hills Hollows FACEBOOK Ozark Hills and Hollows Magazine TWITTER @ozarkhillhollow INSTAGRAM ozarkhillsandhollowsmagazine ONLINE www.issuu.com/ozarkhillsandhollows

Beeman Hollow Farm

All Natural Pasture Raised Heritage Breed Pork No Chemicals or Antibotics No MSG German Brats Apple Brats Nitrite Free Bacon Whole Hog Sausage Chops, Roast, Ham Reserve Your Share Weekly and Monthly Deliveries

See us at the Market

August • September 2016 | 31

Following the Hickory Smoke Trail I’m addicted to it. The magical combination of smoke and caramelized pork, molasses and vinegar – it can make me turn off the freeway and drive for miles to find the source of that barbecue aroma.

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Once I find it, I’m like a a dog on a bone. I’ve sampled the succulent smoked pig from Spartanburg to Shanghai, and a lot of places in between. I’ve eaten at Mama Lou’s in Munfordville, Kentucky and Aunt Bea’s in Crow Town, Alabama. I’ve had it topped with hot peppers, raw onion, eighteen kinds of cole slaw, a grilled pineapple slice, and one time (in a combination Hair Salon/ Barbecue Restaurant in Turkeytown, Alabama), even lettuce, tomato and pickle. I’ve met very few smoked pork butts that didn’t make me feel happy inside. I believe making barbecue sauce is an art in itself. Most restaurants opt for the hot and mild options, some feel the need to offer 6 or 8 variations. I think that the sauce is the trademark of a good BBQ restaurant, and they should stick to the

BY JESSE WOODROW

recipes that they have honed over time – and forgo the trendy flavors – I always want the “house special”. Of course, there are a million variations of sauce. Some are tomato, or Ketchup based, some vinegar based. Then there can be strong elements of mustard, molasses or even mayonnaise. I’ve tasted flavors of jalapeno, habanero, chili, mango, pineapple just to name a few. Honestly, I think the older I get, the more I want to just taste the plain smoked pork with a little sauce on the side. If it’s done right, it should be juicy, smoky, with just enough salt and pepper to set off the porky goodness inside of the bun. Speaking of bread, there are a ton of variations on that topic as well. Plain, Kaiser, sesame seed, onion, poppy, buttered, garlicky, toasted, even smushed on the grill like a panini. Then there are

the Texas Toast fans, or in some really purist joints, two pieces of plain white bread on the side. I’m not even going to get into the subject of side dishes. Tater salad, fries, green beans, baked beans and okra all make good pairing choices, but that’s a whole other discussion. Our standard, for evaluation purposes, is a a pulled pork sandwich on the house roll, with dab of cole slaw, sauce on the side and an iced tea. I take mine half sweet, but you can take your choice. And, as much as I want to discuss mouth watering buttermilk chess pie, or blackberry cobbler, I’m going to stick to the straight and narrow. So even though I’ve had great Hog Pickins’ far and wide, I’m here to talk about barbecue in the Ozarks. I’d like to

keep this feature going each issue, maybe with just a column or two, highlighting new discoveries. Please feel free to send us suggestions, I’m always looking for an excuse to try out a new smoked pork destination! Some of the ground rules are: The meat be cooked and pulled or sliced on site (preferably at the time of ordering). It must be smoked with wood, of any kind. It must be served plain, not steeped in sauce. Points will be deducted for microwaved, re-grilled or steam tray stored meat. I really like to patronize local, independent restaurants, but I may stray and visit a chain every once in a while, if I’ve heard good things about it. Score is out of 100 possible points. Here goes my first group of pig meat purveyors.

BARBECUE STATION Cassville, Missouri There’s a hint of Texas flavor in this downtown Cassville bistro. The iced tea is good, the sides are yummy and the decor is pretty classic. Fish mounts, old signs, and lots of pig paraphernalia. My pork sandwich was well picked, no gristle or fat, not too salty or greasy. No trace of burnt ends or smokey edges (which I kind of like, personally). This is clean, lean BBQ. A very safe bet for your BBQ craving. I might have recommended toasting the bun, it was a little plain-jane, and cold. The sauce was very nice, classic tomato and molasses based, with a good dose of vinegar. I give it a solid 87 points. Next time you’re on your way to Roaring River State Park in southwest Missouri, give this place a visit. It’s a keeper.

Arnold's

21 Burgers & Bar-B-Q

ARNOLD’S 21 BURGERS & BBQ Mountain View, Missouri OK, forget Arnold’s from Happy Days. This place has a dancing pig that does tricks in exchange for watermelon rinds. Its a big hot mess, and so is the sandwich creation I sampled. Although it is very conservative compared to, say their Oreo crumble or peanut butter burger, its still way out there in my book. The buns are specially baked garlic rolls. They are toasted and slathered with homemade garlic herb butter, then the juicy pork is laid on thick with...a grilled pineapple ring. Its a big messy juicy flavorful concoction that gets high points for originality, if not tradition. I liked it a lot, but it was hard to tell about any subtle flavor elements, what with all the garlic butter and pineapple hoopla going on. These are great people, and they have a tasty sandwich, I give it an 89. If you find yourself halfway between Springfield and Sikeston, follow your nose to Arnold’s.

STRAY DOG BBQ&PIZZA Van Buren, Missouri These folks get extra points for the name. The first time I visited this place, it was the dead of winter, and there was actually an old momma pit-bull dragging a 20-foot log-chain hanging around the parking lot. Just a coincidence, I’m sure. They’ve got pizza, wings, a salad bar and soft-serve Ice cream, I mean why not? I get the feeling that the owner, is most proud of his smoker fare. He has chopped my pork to order whenever I have visited. He even makes a point on his menu of mentioning that he only cooks and smokes with real wood. The sandwich was good lean pork with lots of smokey flavor, the sauce was KC style, with a strong molasses flavor and just enough spice, and the slaw was cool, crunchy and creamy. The bun was fresh and soft. This is no frills, all American barbecue. I give it a 92. Anyone floating on the Current river, or vising the metropolis that is Van Buren, probably already knows about Stray Dog, but if you haven’t yet, give it a try. It’s one dog that definitely can hunt a pig, and do a good job of smoking it.

August • September 2016 | 33

ABUNDANT TREASURES FLEA MARKET

1140 W Walnut St., Suite 1, Rogers, AR 479.936.7200 AbundantTreasuresFleaMarket.com facebook.com/AbundantTreasuresMarket

Get Inspired!

que Craft fair season is upon us. The areas finest Anti king Stores, Flea Markets and Resale Shops are stoc rs. up with the best inventory for fall craft fair goe

at the craft fairs. Stop in and shop after picking up inspiration modate afterThey are staying open late and are ready to accom map will help nient hours shoppers during the fair season. Our conve n County! Bento in shop you plan your route so that you won't miss a iture, Furn ues, With a wide variety of merchandise – Antiq er – there's Clothing, Decorative Items or Flea Market Fodd or browsing. ng something for everyone – whether you are hunti some great for Check out Repurposing Revolution (page 36) from some ideas ing ideas for your flea market finds, including inspir of our resale and renovating experts!

Bella Vista

Pea Ridge

BELLE’S PLANTATION HOUSE 1005 N. Bloomington, Lowell, AR 479.659.8875

With over 10,000 sq. ft. of antiques, collectibles and glassware, Belle’s has one of the largest selections in the area.

BellesPlantationHouse.com facebook.com/BellesPlantationHouse Monday–Saturday 10am-5pm Sunday 12pm-5pm

Eureka Springs

BETTY’S ATTIC & JEN’S JEWELS Interstate 49

2511 North Second St., Suite 5 & 6 Rogers, AR 479.633.8311

Two great shops, one convenient location!

Bentonville

Rogers

7 Centerton

facebook.com/Bettys.Attic.1

Monday–Saturday 10am-5pm Sunday 12pm-5pm

11 Interstate 49

A (3532)

Dixieland

Interstate 49

671

Monday–Thursday 10am-5pm Friday–Saturday 10am-6pm Sunday 12pm-6pm (Extended hours during craft fair)

1 4

BLUE CHAIR FURNITURE CONSIGNMENT

1140 W Walnut St., Suite 2&3, Rogers, AR 479.631.BLUE (2583) facebook.com/BlueChairConsignment

Exit 82

34 |

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2 15

Monroe St.

Lowell Springdale

Monday–Thursday 10am-5pm Friday–Saturday 10am-6pm Sunday 11am-5pm

PINK BAG CONSIGNMENT SHOP 1500 W Walnut St., Rogers, AR 479.936.7465

4388 N. Thompson St., Springdale, AR 479.756.FLEA (3532)

PinkBagConsignmentShop.com facebook.com/pinkbagconsignmentshop

ME & THE FLEA MARKET

With over 15,000 sq. ft. of shopping, you are sure to find something for everyone facebook.com/MeAndTheFleaMarket

THE RUSTED ROOSTER

1029 W. Walnut St., Rogers, AR 479.631.0009 facebook.com/RRArkansas

Monday-Friday 10am - 7pm Saturday 10am - 6pm Sunday 11am - 5pm

Monday–Saturday 10am-6pm Sunday 12pm-5pm

Monday 10am-6pm Closed Tuesday Wednesday–Saturday 10am-6pm Sunday 11am-5pm

THE GREEN BOX RESALE SHOPPE

OUTSIDE THE BOX NWA

SOMEWHERE IN TIME ANTIQUE MALL

1305 W Walnut St., Rogers, AR 479.903.7100

1225 W. Hudson Rd., Rogers, AR 479.631.8974

719 W. Walnut St., Rogers, AR 479.636.0474

TheGreenBoxResaleShoppe.com facebook.com/TheGreenBoxResaleShoppeNWA

OutsideTheBoxNWA.com facebook.com/OutsideTheBoxNWA

SomeWhereInTimeAntiqueMall.com facebook.com/SITAntiqueMall

Monday–Saturday 9am-5pm Sunday 11am-5pm

Monday–Thursday 10am-5pm Friday–Saturday 10am-6pm Sunday 12pm-6pm

Monday–Wednesday 10am-5pm Thursday–Saturday 10am-6pm Sunday 12pm-5pm

HOMESTEAD ANTIQUE MALL

THE ROSE ANTIQUE MALL & FLEA MARKET

THE SPOTTED GOAT RESALE STORE

3223 W. Hudson Rd., Rogers, AR 479.631.9003

We have 100+ quality vendors offering antiques, collectibles, furniture, glassware, pottery, jewelry, home decor, giftware & much more!

2875 W. Walnut St., Rogers, AR 479.631.8940 We have over 14,000 sq. ft. of shopping pleasure and are one of the oldest markets in NWA

112 E. Monroe Ave., Lowell, AR 479.715.9554 TheSpottedGoatResale.com facebook.com/SpottedGoatStore

HomesteadAntiqueMall.com facebook.com/HomesteadAntiqueMall

facebook.com/TheRoseAntiqueFleaMarket

Monday–Saturday 10am-5pm Sunday 12pm-5pm

Open 7 Days a Week 10am-6pm

Monday–Saturday 10am-6pm Sunday 1pm-6pm

HOME TOWN FLEA MARKET

THE RUSTY CHAIR

2660 W. Walnut St., Rogers, AR 479.633.8386

Over 100 vendors in our 12,000+ sq. ft. store Conveniently located at 24th and Walnut HomeTownFleaMarket.net facebook.com/HomeTownFleaMarket Open 7 Days a Week 9am-6pm

TRUE TREASURES

109 W. Walnut St., Downtown Rogers, AR 479.586.2568

10770 Hwy 72 W., Bentonville, AR 479.795.9396

TheRustyChair.com facebook.com/rustychair

instagram.com/truetreasuresbentonville facebook.com/truetreasuresbentonville

Tuesday–Saturday 10am-5pm Sunday (by chance) 12pm-3pm

Tuesday–Saturday 9:30am-5pm Sunday 12pm-4pm

August • September 2016 | 35

Repurposing Revolution

W H AT WA S O L D C A N B E

Renewed Again! BY SHERRY LEVERICH

More than meets the eye “I have noticed that people are beginning to take old, broken, and seemingly unwanted items such as pianos, and turning them into bars. We have also sold many potting benches, and garden benches that have been put together using old wood fencing. I see a trend in giving new purpose to materials that would have once been put in the burn pile, and making them glorious once again!” Staci Young, owner of Peddler’s Junction in Crane, Mo.

Back to school frame of mind

“People are getting prepared for ‘Back to School’ and using old bulletin boards, mirrors and frames, and turning them into chalk boards.” Gayle Nelson, owner of Abundant Treasures Flea Market in Rogers, Ark.

Old times

Old alarm clocks can be a lot of fun. They can be crafted into lamps, or painted and used decoratively. The face of the clock can be turned into a picture frame... or gutted and used as a small desk planter. 36 |

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No pane, no gain Old windows can be used in may creative ways. One of the best uses is as a quick picture frame. Simply attach a wall hanger to the back of the window, clean glass panes, and attach printed photos/pictures as desired to the backside of the glass panes.

Visit

Eye-catching vintage combinations

F MAIN STREET in

Crane, Missouri!

“The retro radio/hamper and heat lamp turned steampunk lamp are good examples of how we are repurposing old items.” Donna Hanson, vendor at Belle’s Antique Mall, Lowell, Ark.

Flea Markets, Antiques, Food and More!

All about the finish “We took an old wardrobe top and attached it on top of a sofa table and made it into a hutch. It’s painted in cottage yellow with a dark brown aging wax. Its a beautiful piece. What we notice is that people are going for shabby chic furniture of all sizes and colors. We paint special pieces for people, like we did a red cabinet for a customer – it’s painted in barn red with a dry brush of pink and orange mixed. We enjoy doing the furniture pieces bringing something from old and forgotten to new and refreshed.” Marcy Gripka and Shelley Blankenship, owners of Country Petal’s in Crane, Mo.

Country Petal’s Floral & Vintage Shop 212 Main Street, Crane, Missouri 417-229-0925

Marcy Gripka and Shelley Blankenship Email: countrypetals_2@yahoo.com

Come on down and see us!

2 Sisters

FLEA MARKET

W e have little bit of everything! furniture B home décor lots of Antiques B and so much more!

Repack that suitcase Vintage suitcases are sometimes easy to find at the flea market and can be fun to decorate with. The empty cavity of the case makes it easy to use for various projects. Adding a glass to the front, and mounting it to the wall makes an interesting medicine cabinet. Just add shelving, and it’s ready to store all your toiletry needs.

124 Main Street B Crane, MO 417-598-8860

Peddler’s Junction Flea Market HOME DECOR AND MORE

218 Main Street Crane, MO 417-229-3607 Owner, Staci Young

August • September 2016 | 37

LITTLE SUGAR FA R M H O U S E

You don't have to travel far to

Get Away

A Weekend Getaway in Your Own Back Yard E

ven during the midst of late summertime fun, and getting in the last of the, “before school starts,” activities with the kids, there’s a little leaf flying through the air signaling that fall is on the way. I don’t know about you, but I start getting a little itch for a pumpkin spice latte or a cozy evening around the fire-pit.

er ect acation rental in the ar s with gorgeous iews o the i le Sugar ree and eauti ul countryside o Southwest issouri

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Make the Little Sugar Farmhouse your peaceful country retreat. 38 |

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Hills&Hollows

Finding time to spend a weekend with friends or some close couples can rejuvenate, energize and inspire you as we start our journey into the holiday season. If you enjoy fairs and weekend activities, the Ozarks is definitely the place to be or visit from now till Christmas vacation! Check out our spotlighted local events on page..., or take advantage of some of these great activities that would be fun for friends and couples!

SHOPPING.. FOR IDEAS!

Keep that Pinterest app open and enjoy visiting a host of area communities that treasure their resale shops and flea markets. Whether you are searching for that special centerpiece, or doing some early gift shopping – unique, vintage and hard-to-find items are waiting for you.

FARM FRESH.

Take time to make meals special. Plan your own “farm-to-table” meal using fresh food from the many wonderful area farmers markets. Most area farmers markets are open through fall, and have weekend hours.

ARTISANS GALORE!

Whether food and wine is your thing, or craftsman and artist – watching and learning from masters all over the area is easy to find. Some locals to check out: Coffee: Onyx in Fayetteville, Ark. Keen Bean in Mt. Vernon, Mo. Wine: Railway Winery in Eureka Springs, Ark. Whispering Oaks in Seymour, Mo., Brew: Ozark Beer in Rogers, Ark. White River Brewing in Springfield, Mo. Or – Let someone else handle the arrangements! Hogshead Tours in NWA plans Wine, Brew and Farm tours. Meeting local Craftsman is easy during the Silver Dollar City National Craftsman and Cowboy fest that starts in Mid-September. They host over 125 craftsman from blacksmiths and glassblowers to sorghum makers and artist of many different mediums.

Rags to Riches Flea Market 16,000 square feet of antiques, collectibles and much more!

113 West Main Street, Anderson MO 64831 (417) 845-7383

A little bit of what you need...

A lot of what you want!

M-F 10:00-5:00 Sat 9:00-4:00

www.rags2richesfleamarket.com

FIND YOUR TREASURES AT

Antiques, Collectibles, Modern Furniture, Primitives, Glassware and Flea Market

The

CORNER ANTIQUES HAVE SOME FUN! Bolt NWA Escape Room Experience is a new entertainment that has popped up in Bentonville. Willy-D’s Dueling Piano Bar on the busy Dickson Also explore Street in Bella Vista and Fayetteville Eureka Springs, offers lively Ark., area artist entertainment. colonies.

OUTDOORS OF COURSE. Surrounded by forest areas as well as beautiful lakes and streams, there’s no better time to either explore or relax in scenic serenity. Paddleboats, canoes or float trips are available all over the region. Try something new, schedule a group paddleboarding evening with Melody Elliot of SUP Outfitters in Eureka Springs, 479-244-7380. Looking for a rush? Try one of the ultimate zip lines that skirts tall trees and overhangs some of the beautiful hollows in our Ozarks. Even if you allocate a whole weekend to special times with friends in the Ozarks, you will have no problem finding wonderful people to meet, places to visit and sites to see. Take advantage as the end of summer draws near, and the colorful leaves of fall begin to whirl.

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August • September 2016 | 39

Brumley was quoted as saying, “Actually, I was dreaming of flying away from that cotton field when I wrote 'I’ll Fly Away.'” That thought, of course, like the thoughts that underlay all his many songs, was based upon his own deep spiritual convictions.

Inspiration to Others

I’ll FlyAway STORY BY SHERRY LEVERICH PHOTOS CONTRIBUTED BY ALBERT E. BRUMLEY MUSIC

inging, and sharing feelings through music is part of the fabric of human existence. It's hard to even understand why hearing a certain kind of music makes you feel good, sad, happy or inspired. Our feelings are somehow connected to rhythm, melody and pace, and to the words and poetic flow of a song. This deeply rooted connection between music and a human soul and spirit is the only thing that can explain our love for a cherished melody or a treasured lyric. In 1929, a young and ambitious, hard-working Oklahoma native tapped into that vein of human spirit and wrote one of the most beloved and well-known gospel songs of all time. Albert E. Brumley wrote, “I'll Fly Away,” while working in a cotton field near Rock Island, Okla. He had recently graduated from songwriting school at the Hartford Music Institute. Though Albert would end up being a legendary gospel song writer and hymnal book publisher during his lifetime, he was, at the time he wrote that song, still young and simply sharing his feelings through song. Now 87 years later, “I'll Fly Away” is part of American culture. Betsy Brumley, granddaughter of Albert, shared, “It's the most recorded song ever, and it's been recorded in every genre.” Betsy also explained that it is recorded in many languages and countries as well. This simple yet meaningful song has touched many lives, and, though this gospel song graces the pages of many hymnals and Christian songbooks, it is embraced by many for comfort, even beyond those in the church community.

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Jason Sain, who grew up in Wellington, Texas, but now has roots in the Ozarks as well, is a singer/songwriter that has long been inspired by the extensive works of Albert E. Brumley. “I grew up on the songs of Albert E. Brumley. 'I'll Meet You In the Morning', 'Rank Strangers To Me', 'Turn Your Radio On'... But, there is no equal to 'I'll Fly Away' in my mind. It was my family's favorite, and usually the first thing we sing together during family sing alongs. It was the first song my sister taught my nephews. Mr. Brumley's music was what taught me vocal harmony. It is unequalled in American music for vocal harmony. Lou Whitney once called A.E. Brumley the Cole Porter of gospel music. The Brumley family has always been kind to me, and meeting A.E.'s son Tom is one of the highlights of my life. He was the greatest pedal steel player of all-time. Mrs. Rolene is a sweetheart, and their son Todd is a good friend, and possibly the nicest guy I have ever known. The Brumley family are an American treasure, and their contribution to American music can not be over stated... and that contribution stands on the rock that is “I'll Fly Away”! A.E. Brumley is a giant of American music, and my favorite gospel composer of all-time!” Michelle Curren, Powell, Mo., also shared her connection to Brumley music, “My earliest memory of ‘I'll Fly Away’ was years ago when I watched, 'O Brother Where Art Thou?' I may have sung it in church before then, I really don't remember. My in-laws bought a large farm in Powell, Mo., about twenty years ago. The cemetery where Albert and his wife, Goldie, are buried is cut out of the same farm. Powell is the home of Brumley Music Company, and where Albert wrote his music. For those reasons I feel a special connection to Albert Brumley's music. I have several favorites that I sing often while I'm working in the garden or taking walks. It's neat to imagine

I'll Fly Away Albert E. Brumley, 1929 Some glad morning when this life is o'er, I'll fly away; To a home on God's celestial shore, I'll fly away (I'll fly away). I'll fly away, Oh Glory I'll fly away; (in the morning) When I die, Hallelujah, by and by, I'll fly away (I'll fly away). When the shadows of this life have gone, I'll fly away; Like a bird from prison bars has flown, I'll fly away (I'll fly away) Just a few more weary days and then, I'll fly away; To a land where joy shall never end, I'll fly away (I'll fly away) him being inspired to write them in the same area that I'm now inspired to sing them. My husband and I enjoy bluegrass and southern gospel music, especially in person. We've heard many groups sing ‘I'll Fly Away’ on rustic stages at little music festivals, or at special events in Powell where they often have live music. There's an old country church on our family's farm and we often invite friends and family to gather there for a cook-out. Singing is often part of the activities, so naturally we include ‘I'll Fly Away’!" Jo Ann Cagle of Conway, Ark., enjoys helping with a church service every Thursday evening at a local nursing home. Jo Ann is an excellent piano player and has played for churches and taught many children to play through the years. When her mother was ill with Alzheimer's, she became endeared to the nursing home where she stayed, and still visits, even though her mother passed away years earlier, “They've taken up ‘I'll Fly Away’, really, as the theme,” shared Jo. “A resident, Butch, who only sits through the whole service because he knows we sing ‘I'll Fly Away’ as our closing hymn. It is their favorite, and they chose it as their theme song. Butch always claps and cheers after we sing it. We have from 8-20 attend every service. They may be old, but when I see them sing ‘I'll Fly Away’, I know they are young at heart,” said Jo.

The 48th Annual Brumley Gospel Sing, Aug. 3 – 6, at the Mabee Center in Tulsa Features the best in gospel music hosting 7 concerts in 4 days. The Woody Guthrie Center will also be hosting a Brumley Historical exhibit in Tulsa during the gospel sing. Check out historical memorabilia honoring Albert E. Brumley’s 110 years and learn more about this amazing gospel legacy. Located at 102 E Mathew B. Brady Street, Tulsa.

Keeping the Legacy Alive

Through the years – and after Alberts death in 1977, the Brumley family has kept the ball rolling. The annual Brumley Gospel Sing, which started out as an all-night sing in 1969, is still going strong. The event, which started at the Parson’s Rodeo arena in Springdale, Ark., has grown through the years, and now, for the first year ever, they are holding the annual “Singin'” (as Betsy says the family fondly calls it), at the Mabee Center (an 11,300-seat multi-purpose arena), located on the campus of Oral Roberts University, in Tulsa. This 4 day event is a ritual for gospel lovers, young and old, far and wide. Bob, Albert and Goldie Brumley's son, said, “The guests are well entertained. The music is all pleasant to the ear.” Bob explained how these “singin's” started as pie suppers, which used to be a pretty big deal around here. “Basically, gospel groups started as male quartets, but now there are different arrangements of that. All the groups that we book are traditional gospel groups,” Bob shared. He went on to proudly claim, “The best harmony in the world is Southern Gospel singing.” Though Bob and Betsy admit that adrenaline gets them through the hectic four days of festival, and that they are exhausted at the end, they love it and are always ready to start preparing for the next years event. “The fans are the most important part of the whole thing, we want them to have a great experience and a wonderful time,” said Betsy. Betsy and her husband Kevin have also created a foundation that fosters songwriting and music in the next generation. The “I'll Fly Away Foundation” was started after Betsy had a close-to-death experience that brought her back to her roots, “E.M. Bartlett helped grandpa out when he was young and had nothing. He let him sleep on his couch and learn about music, and then grandpa taught music for E.M.” With fondness, Betsy shared, “Grandpa didn't get to see the ripple effect of his music...” Through Betsy's travels, she has heard many “I'll Fly Away Stories” of people's experiences with the song being a comfort, or even hearing the song on foreign shores, and even in remote areas, such a Fiji. This inspiration and effort to give back has grown the foundation, and this year their goal is to teach 3,300 3rd graders (all of the 3rd graders in Benton County, Arkansas) songwriting. As a fundraiser for this goal, in April of 2017, on the weekend of 27 – 29, they are hosting a songwriting festival at the Bentonville, Ark., town square. On that Saturday, they will also be doing a special Children's Songwriting Festival. They anticipate many songwriters will be present to share their songwriting stories and inspire others as well. August • September 2016 | 41

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best foot forward How one humble horseshoeing school turns out the best farriers in the business STORY AND PHOTOS BY ROSE HANSEN

At just 10 a.m., the blacksmith shop at the Heartland Horseshoeing School in Lamar, Mo., is hot as hell with no end near. The student farriers are sheathed in sweat—triangles of sweat on their denim, sweat pouring off temples, lips wet with sweat, shirt backs soaked in sweat. Each arched coke stove blazes with coals and everywhere is the hiss of red-hot shoes plunging into water buckets and the rhythmic ‘ping’ of hammer on anvil.

The blacksmiths hop at Heartland Horshoeing School houses 20 bricked-in coke forges. Teaching student to work in both propane and coke forge mediums is a point of pride for the school. August • September 2016 | 43

If you know nothing about horses, forging horseshoes seems as mysterious as it is miraculous. Every horse is different, every foot is unique. “That’s the hard bit,” says HHS President Chris Gregory. “You shape the shoe for the foot that you remember.”

not traveling, he teaches farriery back home. The school draws students from every corner of the country and sometimes from across the sea. At his side is his wife and HHS Vice President Kelly, a fellow AFA-certified farrier who boasts an impressive roster of her own, including the AFA’s Outstanding Farrier Educator of the Year. There are roughly 60 farriery schools in North America. HHS is arguably one of the most prestigious, tough to get into and even tougher to get out of. Classes typically range from 8 to 24 weeks. While most people drawn to industry are tactile learners, it takes more than skilled hands to make it through the Gregory curriculum. Students learn forging and shoeing, but there are also classes in business, customer relations, and advanced anatomy courses that include lessons on equine biomechanics and whole-horse dissections.

“You’re very much an artisan of living beings — you’re carving, you’re sculpting, you’re shaping.” Heartland Horseshoeing School President Chris Gregory

Avery Boyd, a.k.a. “Reindeer Games,” working at the forge.

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Gregory wears (what else?) a horseshoe mustache and a hat the size of Texas and an ego smaller than New Jersey—no small feat given his resume. Farriery might be a small world, but his name reigns supreme nonetheless. On the walls of his humble office hang numerous plaques charting his achievements: 3x American Farrier Association (AFA) Outstanding Farrier Educator, 2x AFA Jim Linzy Outstanding Clinician Award. He was inducted into the International Horseshoeing Hall of Fame in 2008. He’s also a Fellow of the centuries-old Worshipful Company of Farriers (WCF), a distinction held by just 35 people worldwide, and he was the first American chosen to work as an examiner for a WCF exam. But as he puts it: “It’s not like being famous.” He might not be the best judge. His reputation racks up 100,000 airline miles a year to shod high-clientele horses and host clinics on six continents. When he’s

“You don’t want your mechanic to fix your car if he doesn’t know where the engine is. We feel very strongly about that,” says Gregory. “I don’t want my students to say, there’s the horse, there’s the limb, there’s his foot. I want them to say the deep flexor tendon originates from the deep flexor muscle, courses the distad, through the manica flexora, over the sesamoids and navicular bone, and inserts into the semi-lunar crest of the coffin bone. It’s tough. I’ve seen a lot of schools that just pump ‘em out and don’t teach anything. Not everybody here graduates.” Truthfully, not everyone needs to. Farriery is completely unregulated and lucrative. A savvy, self-employed newcomer can expect to make anywhere between $30k-50k their first year and double it by the second. If you can convince someone that you know what you’re doing and you have the tools, you can have the job. But just because a person could doesn’t mean they should.

Michigan-based Damian Westcomb has been a farrier for 14 years. When his son, Blake, decided to follow in his footsteps, Westcomb sent him to Gregory rather than just passing on the secrets of the trade himself. “I chose Heartland because of what I see in Chris. It’s a detailed curriculum, more in-depth,” he said. Good farriery matters. An improperly shod horse is destined to move with an awkward stride and suffer back strain, muscle pulls in the leg, or worse. But the job isn’t easy and requires long hours of back-breaking work with animals that have the power to inflict injury, and often do.

When Chris Gregory wrote his Gregory’s Textbook of Farriery, the book almost instantly became an industry standard. This 700-page textbook contains more than 3400 drawings and photos.

“These days, I am so much more about teaching than I am about shoeing,” Gregory admits. He’s 47 and had knee surgery in January. A month later, he got kicked in the other knee by a horse. “So my good knee became my bad knee,” he says. “We’re always hurt. I got three toes that haven’t been broke. You’re always burned, you’re always cut, it’s just unavoidable.” It’s an unusually busy June day at Melvin Bond’s otherwise sleepy farm in McDonald County. More than 30 neighbors have come from across the county—everyone from State Trooper Grant Hendrix to ranchers like Kelvin Camerer—to have their horses shod by Gregory’s students. At just $28 a shoeing, it’s an excellent deal supervised by the best in the business. And though it’s the final day of class and graduation is scheduled for later that evening, they’ve been put to work. No one slacks off under Gregory’s watch.

Naomi Inglebrettson, a.k.a. “Pineapple,” trims a front foot.

Chris Gregory demonstrates how to makes snaps from a rasp made by Hall of Fame farrier, Ray Lagel. August • September 2016 | 45

This is nothing new for Bond, who has hosted graduating HHS students for the last decade. He says likes the community— even hosts a midday meal for everyone— and he likes watching them work in his own backyard. To shoe a horse, the farrier begins by running a steady hand across the horse’s shoulder or hip and down the leg, running a firm nail into the joint to trigger a reflex that pulls the foot up. Moving quickly, they straddle the leg and pinch the hoof between the knees. Nail after nail is swiftly pulled until the old shoe pops off. Next comes a trim and filing. Finally, the new shoe is shaped and then secured by driving nails back into the hoof walls. For a cooperative horse in the hands of a skilled farrier, all four feet can be done in thirty minutes. Students, however, average around four hours. Crouched beside a white horse named Lucky, Jonas Contreras steadies the foot on a stand and files the nail with the tender attention of a pedicurist. All around him, his colleagues work in concentrated silence as they forging, hammering, and hot-pressing shoes. The summer class is an American quilt of students. There’s a fresh high school graduate from Michigan, a 47-year old accountant from Southern California, and everyone imaginable in-between. Gregory has had lawyers, veterinarians. The oldest student he’s ever taught was a 68-year old retiree from IBM, and the youngest was a 13-year old Amish Mennonite. The trade attracts all types. It’s worth the sweat, worth the commitment, worth the enormous risk of a mid-life career swap; the pay is good, they love the horses, set their own hours, work outside, they’re free. And, in a way, they become artists. “You’re very much an artisan of living beings—you’re carving, you’re sculpting, you’re shaping,” says Gregory. “Here, we’re changing lives. With horses, we take horses that don’t necessarily feel good and we make them feel good. They limp in and leap out. Here, we’re changing lives. These people come in and they leave and their lives are forever changed.”

The Heartland Horseshoeing School is located at 327 SW 1st Lane, Lamar, MO. For more information, call 417.682.6896, email anvil@earthlink.net, visit heartlandhorseshoeing.com, or ﬁnd them on Facebook. 46 |

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the backwoods blacksmith Another Angle with Ironworks

STORY BY SAVANNA KAISER | PHOTOS CONTRIBUTED BY WILL DOBKINS

Will Dobkins grew up to the sound of clattering tools, accustomed to the smoke and sparks that filled his family’s metal shop. The passion for working with iron was instilled in him as a young boy and its legacy remains with him to this day. In fact, it’s now his entire livelihood. Will Dobkins grew up to the sound of clattering tools, accustomed to the smoke and sparks that filled his family’s metal shop. The passion for working with iron was instilled in him as a young boy and its legacy remains with him to this day. In fact, it’s now his entire livelihood. “It all started with my GreatGrandpa William. After settling in Missouri, he worked as a traveling preacher, photographer, and blacksmith,” Will recalls. “He had a circuit that he ran around the Arcadia Valley. Traveling with his supplies in his wagon, he preached, shod horses, fixed equipment, and took pictures to sell.” Today, Will still uses his greatgrandfather’s anvil and forge. He’s had to rebuild and restore them, of course, but he’s grateful to have the family heirlooms still in use and hopes to pass them down to his children some day. This Ozarks craftsman tried his hand at several things before returning to his roots, however. “After highschool, I ‘cowboyed’ it for awhile in Wyoming and Montana,” he says. “I’ve always been fascinated with the early pioneers, the mountain men and homesteaders, and that sense of walking on to a piece of raw land and making a life there by hand.” Will spent several years out west learning various trades from construction to aviation mechanics to gold mining in Alaska. When he began working at a production forge in Oregon, he was drawn back to what he

loved most – working with his hands and creating quality tools. He and his wife, Melissa, finally moved home to Missouri and started their family business, Homestead Iron. “We’ve been tool users long before we were tool makers and that’s really what drove us to begin this. We were frustrated with the low-quality selection and variety of tools out there,” says Will. They’ve been in business now for over 7 years, creating tools the same way they would have been made 250 years ago. “Making tools used to be the bread and butter of American blacksmithing. We didn’t have time to mess with fancy stuff back in the old days. It was all about sharpening plow shares, getting crops in the ground, and making tools that will last,” Will says. He’s grateful to have found his niche in being an American tool maker. “Forging tools goes back to the very roots of our nation.” Gardening is another huge aspect of the family’s life here in the Ozarks. Their line of garden tools is in high demand also. Will makes a variety of hand garden tools and long-handled tools. The trowel, furrow plow, hoes, rakes and scuffle weeder are just a few of his popular garden varieties. He uses only All-American steel and their handles are all made from American hardwood. He even makes his own all-natural rust preventative with an old-time traditional finish of organic linseed oil and beeswax.

He also makes a lot of architectural and artistic work, like decorative gates, rails, door handles, and even survival gear. “We can pretty much make or customize anything with iron,” he explains. “I owe it to the resources I use to turn them into the best possible product I can think of. I want to make something that lasts. I want to make tools that are of heirloom quality and can be passed down to their kids and grandkids,” says Will. “In fact, I’d love for my kids to take this over and forty years down the road have them hear from some of my old customers. I hope these tools will still be used decades after I make them.”

Will and Melissa have two young children. Their three-year-old daughter, Sam, already likes to help in the shop. She often comes out and beats on the anvil with her little hammer, just like Will, his brothers, and cousins did growing up. “Just as my dad taught me, I want to teach my kids the value of hard work and an appreciation for blacksmithing,” says Will. “My brothers and I all teethed on these anvils and tools growing up. After restoring my great-grandfather’s anvil, I finally realized that maybe that was its lot in life – for kids to hammer out their experiences and practice on it.” Within the blacksmithing community, education is key and they want to show people what real ironwork looks like. A couple times every year, Will and his family host a “Hammer-In” event on his farm, where people interested in the trade and those who have never seen it before can see what it’s like. “There’s a pretty good group of smiths around here of various skill levels,” says Will. “It’s a great way to get everyone together for the day and show off tricks and learn from each other.”

“More and more people are wanting to be more self-sufﬁcent and they’re looking for high quality tools. I’m glad to see a desire for craftsmanship coming back into fashion,” Will Dobkins

He’s also had several young men work with him in his smithy. “It’s not easy,” he says. “It’s hard, hot and dirty work. You really gotta love it to do it.” Will hopes to start a school in the future and teach this classic trade to future generations. His business, Homestead Iron, is one of only three sources in the US where tool makers create all hand-forged tools. Will and his wife also travel to several shows across Missouri every year to share their story and garden tools and demonstrate the work of this fourth generation blacksmith. He’s the last remaining one “carrying the torch” in their family. “More and more people are wanting to be more self-sufficent and they’re looking for high quality tools. I’m glad to see a desire for craftsmanship coming back into fashion,” says Will.

He hopes people will never lose sight of the heritage and value of heirloom tools. “There’s the fingerprints of the craftsman who made it, all over that object. When you buy that, you’re buying a little piece of his soul. You’re paying for the blood and sweat and tears and years of failed attempts to get to that level. That’s what fascinates me about blacksmithing,” he says. “You can always get better at blacksmithing. You’ll never master it. You can chase it the rest of your life and there is still something to learn.” “For me, every morning is another opportunity to be better than I was yesterday. At the end of the day, there’s something real and tangible that didn’t exist in the world that morning. It’s something that’s usable for ages and that, for me, is really cool.” August • September 2016 | 47

A NEW WAY TO LOOK AT AN OLD TOY T H E B I C YC L E BY NAHSHON BISHOP

PART 3: STAYING IN THE SADDLE

he bicycle, this simple low maintenance machine, can provide miles and years of enjoyment. The problem is that in today’s world, time is extremely precious and we all appear to be extremely busy! With the full schedule that we all have, it can be hard to stay motivated and in the saddle. I would like to offer some tips and tricks that have helped me maintain a healthy amount of time in the saddle, despite the number of appointments that have to be looked after each week.

WRITE DOWN YOUR GOALS Numerous studies have shown that the physical act of writing out your goals increases success rates exponentially. The unique ability that we have as humans to pre-plan and execute ideas or "mental models" is a powerful tool that should not be overlooked. Is your goal to lose weight? Then write down how much weight you would like to lose and keep track of your progress! Is your goal to simply be more physically fit or just to feel better? Then state clear parameters for measuring this and keep track of your progress. It is also important in these beginning stages to identify how much time you are willing to spend per week riding your bike. We should always begin any project (including our fitness program) with the end in mind and build a model that allows us to meet our goals in a reasonable amount of time. After you have clearly identified your goals and have written them out, put them in a place that you will see everyday (the refrigerator works great).

A TRAINING PROGRAM With the amount of time you are willing to spend on your bicycle clearly identified, a schedule of riding that fits your busy life can be extremely helpful in regards to keeping you committed! It is unreasonable for many of us to spend every evening after work riding, but, we do need to spend enough time riding for progress to be made on a physiological level. The best way I have found to create a schedule is to list out each of the seven days of the week and allow a one-day rest period between the days you push extremely hard (interval training). At the same time, you need to be flexible with your new schedule in the event something unforeseen falls on a time you should be training. Since most of us cannot spend hours each day of the week riding, we need to make the best use of the short time available to us. Traditionally, this is accomplished by alternating interval training sessions with long distance rides. This method effectively targets different types of muscle groups, stored body fat and energy systems in your body, resulting in a faster overall ride speed. This also promotes the ability to remain comfortable with moderate effort on longer endeavors. For interval training, 48 |

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typically a 2:1 ratio is used when putting together a training program. This means that for every two minutes of intense activity (sprinting on your bicycle) you rest for half that time (one minute) and then repeat typically three to four times to complete a set. Your interval training can be structured and rigid or just the opposite. For example, one of my favorite workouts takes place on a road that has five decent Ozark hills in a four-mile stretch of asphalt. At the bottom of the hill, I shift into the appropriate chainring and cog on the cassette that allows me to keep my cadence at a decent speed and I push as hard as I can to the top. I spin out my legs down the back side of the hill, continuing to repeat until the end of the route is reached. For longer distance rides, the focus should be on maintaining cadence. Like interval training, long distance riding is extremely helpful to your overall performance on a bicycle. The term “long distance” is, of course, relative to your level of fitness. When I first began riding, 14 miles was something I would brag about. However, we have people in the Ozarks who use 6 miles to warm up and ride upwards of 100 miles at a time. I promise, it will not take you long to figure out where your limits are.

GROUP RIDES Group rides are an absolute blast. Meeting with a group of friends for a long weekend ride is a special feeling and a wonderful way to keep you motivated. It allows you to gauge yourself against others and to better understand what areas of training you need to work on and what areas are your strengths. Here are some things to keep in mind while riding with a group. Practice riding in a straight line! It can be embarrassing and even dangerous to swerve and accidentally bump into a person riding with you. I have found putting solo time in the saddle will ultimately make you more comfortable with your bicycle and as such, minimize the swerving. The problem of swerving generally arises when you take one of your hands off of your handle bars to grab a drink or food. I have also found that looking behind you to check for traffic can be a particularly dangerous time. Once you have mastered riding with one hand, looking behind you and not swerving back and fourth, it is time to introduce a friend into the mix! Oddly enough, you will find that you have a magical bubble around you when you ride your bike and when something or someone enters into this space, you become extremely uncomfortable. To build

ease riding with a partner, start off on a relatively straight and flat piece of ground at a slow speed. Practice drinking, eating and looking behind you while riding side-by-side, in front and behind your friend. As the comfort level rises between you, gradually increase the speed. Before long, you will be ready to tackle a group ride with confidence. You should choose individuals to ride with that are near your level of fitness and experience. If you are just starting to ride and you have an old mountain bike purchased from the same place you buy your groceries, it might not be a good idea to ask the group of individuals who own carbon fiber Cannondale bicycles and have calve muscles larger in circumference than your waist to go on a weekend ride. More likely than not this group of riders will ride off into the sunset and you will find yourself 20 miles from your vehicle alone, exhausted, out of water and not having fun (I am speaking from experience here). I have found that serious cyclists are more than happy to offer advice or guidance on any number of topics related to cycling, but it is not going to be enjoyable or helpful for you or the experience group of riders if you have to tied to the back of someones bike using an inter-tube to stay with the group.

EQUIPMENT CAN BE HELPFUL

SOCIAL MEDIA

For those of us who will not be riding beside Chris Froome anytime soon, a system to track MPH, heart rate and cadence should give us plenty of data to determine if we are making improvements on the bike. All these can be easily purchased and even installed for you at the place where you have purchased your bicycle. Also, many of us most likely already own a device that is capable of tracking MPH and total mileage. Apple and Android phones have applications that can be downloaded for free or on subscription basis to track and upload data to Strava for others to see. If you already own a smart phone, go to your app store, type in “cycling” and download the top rated app. If I had to choose one more thing to COMMUTING train with besides my smart phone, it would be a heart rate monitor. This will allow An easy way to log miles on your bike, you to see what zones you are in and many as well as a great weight loss strategy, is to heart rate monitors can hook up to your commute to work via bicycle. While this smart phone using the application you have does take some additional planning, it downloaded to record your ride. The heart can be extremely rewarding in a number rate monitor generally uses bluetooth to of ways. This is also a great way to relieve connect to your phone. that extra stress before and after work.

For cycling, there are several services that allow the user to keep track of mileage, average speed, heart rate and several other metrics that can be shared with like minded people in your area and across the world. From this stems a friendly level of competition that can serve as a powerful tool to keep you riding. One such internet community is Strava. It is essentially Facebook for cycling but with several added bonuses. If you have the appropriate equipment, you can upload data into Strava and track to see what improvements are being made regarding your personal bests. This then can help you decide what type of training needs to be focused on for each week. Finally, Strava makes it easy for you to find excellent riding routes within your area and in some cases, even download someone else’s favorite route on compatible GPS devices.

PEDDLER TRENDS One last piece of equipment I need to mention is cycling shoes. If you are going on longer rides with traditional tennis shoes or running shoes you will notice your feet (and sometimes knees and hips) getting uncomfortable around the 20-mile marker. If all you have time for is a quick 7-8 mile interval ride 30-50 minutes in length, then shoes are not that crucial to purchase in the beginning. However, like riding shorts or bibs, shoes made specifically for cycling can be a wonderful thing and can even help ensure that you do not sustain injuries over your cycling career. With all of this in mind, please do not feel that you need expensive equipment to be successful and improve your health using a bicycle. It is important to keep in mind that this needs to be enjoyable first and foremost or regardless of how much money you spend, and how many gadgets you hook into, it will be pushed aside.

CONCLUSION I hope that this series of articles has indeed made you look at an old toy in a new way. There is something about riding a bicycle through our beautiful part of the world that cannot be quantified or examined in tangible form. It is a special feeling that needs to be experienced at least once as an adult. Chances are one ride is all that it will take to get hooked, at least that is what happened to me. I thank you for reading these series of articles and hope that I see you on the road soon, generally I am the slow one at the back of the group! August • September 2016 | 49

Ozark Hills & Hollows is wishing all our country kids and porch swing daydreamers a great school year. Thanks to Race Brothers Farm and Home Supply for providing clothing and boots for our back to school photo. The historic schoolhouse in this photo is a permanent exhibit on the grounds of the Barry County Museum located on Hwy. 76 in Cassville, Mo. PHOTO BY CHRISTINA LEACH

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August • September 2016 | 51

DOGWOOD CANYON NATURE PARK

An Ozarks’ Paradise

STORY BY KAYLA BRANSTETTER PHOTOS COURTESY OF DOGWOOD CANYON

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n 1990, Bass Pro founder, Johnny Morris, purchased 2,200 acres at an auction, and that purchase transformed into the beautiful and nearly impossible to describe destination, Dogwood Canyon Nature Park. Dogwood Canyon has grown, and is now a large-scale, 10,000-acre, paradise filled with wildlife, such as longhorn cattle, American bison and elk. The property also features crystal-clear trout streams, trails, cascading waterfalls, and even historical landmarks such as ancient burial caves. This family utopia also includes handcrafted bridges and bottomless turquoise pools. Visitors arrive and reconnect with the true power and awe of unspoiled nature. With each step I walked, I observed more and more. The Ozark Mountains embraced me with a warm and welcoming hug, evergreen trees danced and the park’s namesake, Dogwood trees, made their presence known amongst the forest. Upon arriving I quickly could see that beyond the beauty of nature that surrounded me, there was an abundance of activities as well: a mill tour, nature conservation center, interactive treehouse, hiking trails, biking trails, horseback riding, Segway tours, tram tours, jeep tours, fishing, and much more.

My experience began with a brief history of the park’s water mill by Dogwood Canyon’s mill expert and local Ozarkian, Blake Adams. Blake operates the mill three times per day grinding corn meal and grits. Afterwards, he places the product in cloth sacks, sews them up, and transfers the corn meal and grits to the park’s gift shop for purchase. Outside of creating product, Blake operates the tallest operating water mill wheel in the Ozarks. He described the water mill as a scrapbook mill, meaning the parts belonging to the mill originated from different places. The mill moves through the use of twin granite stones from the Bent Mountain Mill in Franklin County, Virginia from the year 1905 – which happened to be during Prohibition. Blake explained how Franklin County, Virginia gained the reputation of being the wettest county leading into the twin granite stones’ first job – making whiskey and moonshine. I admired Blake’s passion and appreciation for the mill and history behind the creation of the water mill. I loved the design of the water mill wheel off to the side of the park’s main structure, where guests enter. Why not stop and enjoy an informational demonstration from an expert, full of history and knowledge?

My journey continued through a display of Native American artifacts from the Ancestral Osage Indian Tribe. I admired the display of arrowheads, tools and pottery from the ancestors of the Osage and other surrounding tribes. I’m fascinated, too, that this group of people inhabited this area. Essentially, their survival depended on their surroundings. The Native American collection proved to be impressive and other than these basic survival tools and human remains, any trace of their existence seemed almost invisible. When I first saw the collection, I was filled with wonder and questions. Who were these people? Adam Houseman, the Tour Operations Manager, shared that the Native American historian stated the average height for an Osage Indian averaged six to seven feet tall. As a result of a tribe members average height, they appeared intimidating and therefore, the park only found evidence of the Ancestral-Osage tribe at Dogwood Canyon because they believed other tribes feared them. These new found facts added to my curiosity, so, when I returned home, I conducted research on these people. I discovered the Osage Indians originated in Missouri near the Missouri and Osage Rivers.

Experts described them as semi-nomadic where they hunted small game such as elk, deer, bear, and bison. Traditionally, the men hunted and the women butchered, prepared the meat, worked with the animal hides, and gathered plants. Any extra product were used for trade with the Europeans. I also learned, just as Adam had explained, that the Osage were considered to many as one of the most warlike tribes in all of North America, and their giant-like appearance contributed to this fear. The next feature we visited is the epitome of Johnny Morris’ passion: conservation, preservation and education. This center was strategically designed to host nature classes for children. Each classroom has an Ozark theme to expose children to the variety of wildlife this area offers. This feature is functional and successfully fulfills its purpose; however, Adam explained that Johnny Morris desires to add more to the nature experience of children. There were shelves, filled with nature books and wildlife

displays, such as snakes and turtles, in addition to a suspension bridge connecting the nature center to the treehouse – all which will be new to the center in the coming months. We next explored Dogwood Canyon’s treehouse, constructed and designed by Animal Planet’s “Treehouse Master”, Pete Nelson. As Public Relations Specialist, Shelby Stephenson, walked me through – a young, teenage girl walked onto the first floor with a smile across her face. She engaged in small talk with Shelby over how she hadn’t realized Pete Nelson was responsible for the design. She continued by stating, “I want to be an architect and I love the details of this treehouse.” As an outsider witnessing this interaction, I almost captured a tear of joy and happiness from the young girl. Her face seemed to brighten even more when Shelby directed her to the spiral staircase and encouraged the girl to continue with her exploration of the treehouse. I must admit, I shared the girl’s enthusiasm as Shelby directed my August • September 2016 | 53

husband and I throughout the structure. Everything about it is centered on being interactive and hands-on for children. Cupboards were built into the walls inviting young children to open the door to reveal a secret – a piece of nature. Not only does the treehouse function as an educational center, Pete Nelson built one-hundred birdhouses on the outside of the house to provide comfortable homes to some of the park’s native birds. Overall, the treehouse’s aesthetic façade inspires guests to appreciate the creativity of human imagination. 54 |

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My husband and I boarded the tram, which provides a two-hour tour of the park with anticipation and excitement. Our first stop was in front of the park’s chapel, Hope Wilderness Chapel. Construction began in 2000 and the chapel officially opened in 2002. The log cabin chapel has a full-length window near the back, highlighting one of the park’s waterfalls. Inside, the pews originated from Savannah, Georgia and date back to approximately 150 years. The chapel is available as a wedding venue, and in fact, a magazine, The Knot, identified Dogwood

Canyon as one of 2016’s top wedding destinations. Shelby stated the park hosts approximately fifty weddings per year with the fall weddings booking the quickest, followed by early spring. As the tour continued, the park opened into a stage of nature and natural beauty. Waterfalls cascade down into the streams providing the right amount of music to its audience. Trout swim – hoping to find food from tourist – entertaining the guests as they discover how well treated the fish appear to be. For me, the park seemed overwhelming, with the beauty and the amount of planning and effort that was dedicated to this park. My husband leaned over and whispered, “You know what this reminds me of?” As I continued to stare afar and gently shook my head, no, he continued by saying, “Switzerland.” My husband was not the only person attempting to compare the park to other places. During the animal encounters – which involved, whitetail deer, elk, and bison – I overheard a woman commenting during the bison section, “this is a closer experience than Yellowstone.” Despite all of my traveling, I struggled to compare this park to anyplace and I decided, I can’t. The Ozarks have always held a special place in my heart because it’s my home. Dogwood Canyon Nature Park offered a one of kind of experience that is unique to the Ozarks. The park possesses history dating back to almost 8,000 years ago. As it expanded, they discovered human remains dating back to 6,000 B.C. making these remains the oldest found in the state of Missouri. Outside of ancient history, the park paints a picture of life during the nineteenth and early twentieth century with the use of the water mill wheel. History coupled with passion, imagination, hospitality – every single employee appeared to share a passion for conservation and preservation. My husband and I made plans to share our Dogwood Canyon experience with our young daughter and we plan on purchasing park passes to continue our exploration of this magical and enchanting place. Meanwhile, every dollar spent by guests returns to the park because the park is operated and maintained by the Dogwood Canyon Foundation, a non-profit organization, which means every guest and visitor contributes to the preservation and protection of the Ozarks’ own Garden of Eden.

ROM the

OLLOW

Tips For Spending Time in the Great Outdoors BY WES FRANKLIN

hile you’re on your last camping trips of the summer, there are a few old Ozark, er, “practices” to keep in mind, courtesy of the late Mr. Vance Randolph. These are all real in the fact that they were once believed by at least some folks – or they wouldn’t have been recorded by Randolph for posterity. Just keep in mind I’m not actually advising most of these things. They’re just for fun. To keep the ticks off you, wear a piece of dog fennel (Eupatorium capillifolium) in your left shoe. Dog fennel has no power over chiggers, however. Another good one to remember is that cedar is poison to seed ticks. Tie some branches about your legs, or just place cedar branches around your camp to keep the little bloodsuckers away. I’ve never been able to get past the scratchiness of the cedar needles. Itch from the cedar or itch from the ticks. Which is worse? Now, if you really want to keep the ticks and chiggers away, try to camp where there is a lot of pennyroyal (Hedeoma pulegioides) growing around. They

don’t like it. Now, you may have heard of pennyroyal tea, but I don’t advise drinking any. In past centuries, and probably well into the 20th, it was used as a, well, remedy for women who didn’t want to continue in the family way. Cedar berry tea is another old Ozark remedy for that. In smaller doses, however, it is supposed to help with routine female issues. The worst time for snakes is when the huckleberries are ripe, because snakes are blind then and more aggressive. Yeah, they may be also shedding their skin, but keep an eye on the huckleberries to know exactly when to be more careful. If bit by a snake, burn the snake immediately to counteract the poison. Then go seek medical attention. The Ozarks, by the way, having some interesting snakes, including some to watch out for. One is the hoop snake, so called because it puts its tail in its mouth and rolls like a hoop, chasing down unwary victims. Another is the milk snake. Now, I’m sure you’ve heard of the milk snake, which is truly a variety of the king snake, but what you may not know is

that it likes to attach itself to cow or goat udders and drink its fill. If you’re swimming in the creek or river with water moccasins about, you don’t have anything to worry about so long as you are submerged. Poisonous water snakes won’t bite you if you’re underwater. By the way, if you drop a horse tail hair into a creek in the summertime it will turn into a snake. So don’t do that. Don’t camp near a walnut tree. They attract lightning. Don’t ever burn the wood of a tree struck by lightning. You’re just asking for trouble. When you hear a dead tree limb drop in the woods, when no wind is perceptible, rain is coming and you better pull up camp. When your campfire spits and sputters it is another sign that rain is on the way. It also means that two family members will quarrel within 24 hours, so if you’re camping with your brother or cousin maybe you should strike camp anyway and just call it a trip. Don’t ever use sassafras wood for your campfire or it could bring about the death of your mother. If she is already gone to Heaven it is OK. Peach tree wood is very bad luck to burn as well. When you’re lighting your campfire, never look directly into the flames. If you do, you’ll have trouble with the fire for the rest of the evening. It could also bring other bad luck as well. If you decide to do a little fishing, never step over a fishing pole lying on the bank. If you do, even by accident, you will catch no more fish that day. If you catch some fish, leave one behind hanging on a branch. It will ensure luck on the next trip. I suppose it’s a sort of sacrifice to the Ozark creek gods. Maybe you prefer small game hunting. Squirrel stew over a campfire sounds pretty appetizing. Squirrel season is open all summer and into fall in Arkansas and Missouri. Just remember that there is a special understanding between squirrels and mosquitoes. When you’re stalking a squirrel, mosquitoes are apt to swarm you and make you wave your hands about, thus warning off the squirrel. So be sure to spray on extra mosquito repellent. Or you could just rub a thick layer of lard over your face and hands. Remember these old Ozark tips as you wrap up the summer with a camping trip, and you’ll be alright. Enjoy our Ozarks! August • September 2016 | 55

When I first met Melody Elliot of SUP Outfitters in Eureka Springs Arkansas, I couldn’t help but notice that she looked like she had just stepped off of a sunny beach. In a way, I was right. Before moving to Arkansas, Melody lived in Oahu for eight years. But, her love affair with the ocean started long before that. She grew up in Ocean City, Maryland, where she spent her days fishing, crabbing, boogie boarding and body surfing. For some reason, surfboarding didn’t attract her during this time and SUP hadn’t become a popular sport yet.

STORY BY KATE BAER PHOTOS BY KATE BAER AND CONTRIBUTED BY MELODY ELLIOT

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Stand up paddle boarding’s roots can be traced back to Africa where it was common for people to stand in their canoes and paddle. Sixteenth century Hawaiians would surf on boards that were 5-meters long and had to use a paddle because of the enormity of their boards. More recently, in the 1940s, three surf instructors in Waikiki named Duke Kahanamoku and Leroy and Bobby AhChoy, started standing up and using paddles to face incoming swells as they paddled out. In the 1990s, it started being taught at surf schools and in ‘03 it was added to the world renowned, “Buffalo Big Board Contest,” calling it, “Beach Boy Surfing,” and the rest is history. It was also in Hawaii where Melody fell in love with the sport. When she was in Oahu, she worked on tour boats training to be first mate. She would be the on-board life guard, putting customers in the water with spinner dolphins and sometimes diving up to 23 feet to retrieve lost snorkeling masks. It was during this time that Melody also started teaching surfing and SUPing. When her and her husband decided to move back to his homeland of the Ozarks, she decided to share her love and expertise. So she started a SUP adventure business on beautiful Beaver Lake.

Melody offers two different fleets of boards as rentals. One fleet is for basic paddle boarding, in which you stand on the board and use a long paddle to maneuver. The other fleet is specifically designed for SUP yoga. These boards are a bit more stable, providing a platform for a unique and challenging yoga experience. She often collaborates with local yoga studios to offer SUP yoga classes. This previous fall, Melody traveled back to her beloved Hawaii and got her yoga certification in Maui. Now, she plans on offering more SUP yoga opportunities including a Hawaiian retreat in Oahu where she will also teach surfing and provide an opportunity to swim with dolphins.

SUP yoga happens to be one of the fastest growing fitness trends. It increases balance, flexibility, stability, and core strength. Unlike doing yoga on a mat, the board responds to your movement. The special yoga SUP boards also have a special deck pad that allows you to maximize the whole board more comfortably. SUP YOGA: IMPROVES BALANCE GIVES YOU A FULL BODY WORKOUT IS LOW IMPACT HELPS TO REDUCE STRESS INCREASES YOUR OVERALL STRENGTH IS A CARDIO WORKOUT IS USEFUL IN REHABILITATING INJURIES IMPROVES ENDURANCE

Melody is also working with a group called RVR to RVR and the Fight to Soar communities. They give river paddling workshops and clinics. This opens up a whole new way to use the board including how to camp from your board and navigate through white water. With so many rivers in the area, it’s a perfect fit for those who want to float on something other than a canoe or kayak. River SUPing is a whole new river experience. I took my family out one quiet summer evening and Melody met us by the lake. Her truck was loaded up with her SUP fleet and we were about to embark on a family adventure. My husband, children (15,13,8), and I were all curious as to what to expect. Melody was extremely patient with us and helped us all feel comfortable on the water. She even gave our youngest a one-on-one lesson until she was ready to paddle on her own. We had a wonderful time, gliding past waterfalls and bluffs. At first, I was a little afraid of the wake made by the boats and jet skis on the lake but, the boards were very stable and it was actually fun riding them. Dad and kids had fun diving off of the boards and doing head stands on them. I was content with paddling and bird watching. It really can be as relaxed or as adventurous as you choose. Our whole family gave it a thumbs up which is no small feat considering our different ages and abilities. When we were done, Melody was waiting by the shore and helped us all out of the water. The Ozarks are very lucky to have this great sport available.

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Century Farms

Century Farms A FAMILY HERITAGE STORY AND PHOTOS BY BECKIE BLOCK

Original Montgomery homestead

n 1976, Missouri was celebrating the Bicentennial of the American Revolution. The Missouri Department of Agriculture decided that since Missouri was founded on the farming industry, that they would recognize farms that had been in the same family for 100 or more years. These farms were called Centennial Farms. Applications were sent out to farmers across the state, and farms that met the guidelines were sent a sign signifying it as a Centennial Farm. There was so much 58 |

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interest in the program, that in 1986, they started the Century farm program, adding up to 100 farms per year. In 2006, the Missouri Farm Bureau joined with the Department of Agriculture as a co-sponsor of the program. There are currently around 5000 Century Farms in the state of Missouri. There are specific guidelines to be named as a Century Farm. The same family must have owned the property for 100 or more years. The original homesteader or buyer can only transfer the property through

children, siblings, nieces and nephews, grandchildren, or through marriage. The farm must be at least 40 acres, regardless of how much was in the original purchase, and the land must contribute financially to the overall income of the farm. In this day and time of buy and selling property, of moving, or upgrading, reaching the Century Farm status is becoming rare. It takes a special breed of person to carry on the family farm, especially in todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s farming market. So what do Century Farmerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s look like?

A Nearly Century Farmer Just outside of Ridgely, Missouri, Clayton Montgomery lives in the house in which he was born. At 98, he still works on the farm that has been in his family for several generations. Unsure of exactly the date that the land was purchased, Clayton did know approximately when, “They bought it, homesteaded it, when James K. Polk was president.” This puts ownership between 1845-1849. Clayton told that his great grandfather, Samuel Montgomery, bought the property from the land office in Springfield for $1.25 an acre.

Montgomery home built in 1910

Clayton and Iva May Montgomery

“The original deed was written on sheepskin, and they hid it in a log during the Civil War,” Clayton shared. The original homestead was 40 acres, and they added to it over the years until they owned 180 acres. Clayton stated that his family came here from Tennessee in a covered wagon, and started life here in a log home. In 1910 they built the house that Clayton and his wife Iva May live in today. Clayton graduated from Exeter High school in 1938, and started working in the NYA, a branch of the WPA. It was the years of the Depression, and times were hard. “We worked eight days a month, at $2 a day, digging water lines, cutting brush, whatever was needed to do,” Clayton said, adding that this money kept the family farm afloat during the depression. Clayton joined the Army in 1941, nine months before Pearl Harbor. The four years he spent in the Army was the only time he was ever away from the family farm. “I’ve always farmed, it’s all I know,”

Clayton said. After the war, he moved back home with his parents, and helped with the farm. They started milking cows, then had feeder pigs. After the market fell on dairy and pigs, the family switched to the beef cattle business. The family raised their own grain to feed the cattle. In 1979, at the age of 59, Clayton married Iva May, and they moved into a trailer on the property, until his parents were both gone, and they moved into the

house in which he was raised. Clayton shared memories of family history that had been passed down. He shared an unconfirmed story of uncles that hid in a cave to keep from joining the Civil war, and then later joined up, to fight with the south. He told of going with his parents to the local Presbyterian church. But it was the love of the land that he shared the most. A pride in holding on to what his ancestors had worked so hard to build.

A Family's Way of Life Just outside of Rocky Comfort, Missouri, Rana (Brown) Woolaway spends her days raising chickens for George’s. The land she lives on has been in her family since 1858. George A Dabbs, who originated from Tennessee, lost his wife in 1858. Later that year, he arrived in Missouri on a wagon train, looking to start a new life. The original homestead was 80 acres, and a small log house was built. He married again when he got to Missouri, and the homestead was the home to his five sons and one daughter. It was his daughter,

George A Dabbs, original homestead August • September 2016 | 59

Rana and Donnie Woolaway

Woolaway, original deed page

Montgomery home built in 1910

Celia Dabbs, that married Jefferson Davis Brown, and started the family lineage that leads down to Rana. Celia’s brother, Dr. David Nathaniel Dabbs, was the town doctor in Rocky Comfort, and is a large part of the Rocky town history. The land was passed down, from George, to his sons and daughter, and passed back and forth among the family, through wills and inter-family sales. The original homestead, was rumored to have had a hole under the floor in the living room, and during the Civil War, valuables were hidden there, to protect them from Bushwackers. During the early years, the family added to the land, and at one time they owned 160 acres. After a time, a small portion of it was sold off, and the current land is 127 acres, consisting of the original 80-acre homestead. 60 |

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Over the years the family farm has had many purposes. Jefferson Davis Brown raised horses and mules for farm teams. Later family members raised corn to feed their own cows and hogs. They raised oats to sell, along with winter wheat. From the 1930’s until 1974-75 it was a dairy farm, with a hog operation on the side. In 1903, the family built a rock house, and this was the home where Rana lived with her dad, Bill, and her brother Jason. Rana has strong feelings about the land. “This is home,” she stated. “This is my pride and joy. It’s my roots and they run pretty dang deep. I spent a few years away, living in Nixa, and all I wanted

Woolaway home, current day

to do was come home.” Rana has spent a few years working in factories, but realized that the farm was her calling, so they started looking into ways to make it profitable for her to stay home and raise her sons, Cade and Carson. In 2001, they built chicken houses. Her dad Bill, still lives on the land as well, and it is very much a family operation. “You come from somewhere, but I want my kids to know where they started. You have to know where you come from, and who you are,” Rana stated. She added that she tries to raise her boys the way she was raised. She teaches them the value of things, and to help people.

Living the Dream Owning a farm that has been passed down through the family, takes a lot of determination. It takes a true love of the land, a love of history, and a desire to make it through the hard times. Both Clayton and Rana, though very different, both spoke of the same things. The love they have for the land of their ancestors. A pride in the history of the people from which they came, and a desire to persevere regardless of the ups and downs in the farming industry.

Century farmers have “don’t quit” attitudes. At the end of the day, they stand outside and look over the land; the same land that their ancestors looked over in the mid-1800’s, and feel the same sense of pride and satisfaction of a hard day’s work, and a job well done. Rana summed up her desire to remain where her roots are. “When I was younger, everyone was running away from the family farms, and all I wanted was to run to it.”

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Drink more fluids, regardless of your activity level. Don’t wait until you’re thirsty to drink. If you are growing bored of your all-day glass of ice-tea or lemonade, try an old-fashion vinegar switchel. Tangy and sweet, it’s also healthy and thirst-quinching. Hang up a Hammock! If there’s a breeze at all, you’ll catch it under the leaves of a shade tree. A hammock will get you up off the ground for all-over ventilation as well.

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BACK HOME in the HILLS

BY LARRY DABLEMONT

On a Gravel Bar Long Ago I don’t know how old grandpa was then…but I was 13. We were camped on a Big Piney gravel bar below the mouth of Hog Creek. Grandpa Dablemont taught me so much on those river trips. He was the best outdoorsman I ever knew, descended from a Frenchman who stowed away on a ship when he was about 15 years old and came to Canada because his mother insisted he become a Catholic priest. He thought it was a good reason to leave his home in the French Alps.

That was a fitting place for him to originate. The name Dableaumonte’ meant ‘dweller of the mountains’ in French. In Canada he married a woman who was half Cree Indian and began trapping. Grandpa said his father killed two men who were trying to kill him and steal his furs. So he fled the country and brought his wife to Randolph County Missouri, near Macon where he bought a farm. 62 |

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When my grandfather was about 6 years old, in 1901, the family abruptly left for the Ozarks, a farm on the Big Piney River to the west of Edgar Springs, Mo. He came on a train ahead of his parents, and saw that beautiful Ozark river then for the first time. He never left it. I never knew a man like him. Most people said that. Grandpa loved that river, and he made his living from the Big Piney’s flowing waters, as a trapper, fisherman, boat builder, tie hacker… hunting and fishing guide, you name it. That night on the gravel bar, in early July, we sat by a glowing campfire with trotlines set and baited, hoping for a big flathead catfish at dawn. We had a trotline set in the Catfish Rock eddy, above our campsite, and in the Fisher Eddy below us about four or five hundred yards. Grandpa said he just knew the Fisher Eddy would have some big flatheads because he hadn’t trotlined it for a while. He was right. When it came to the outdoors, and the river, he usually was right. Somehow he just knew things; when the storms would be coming, days ahead, where to find ginseng, when the first frost would be. He knew where there were dozens of caves, some of them so remote and hidden that no one could have found them. We went into some caves where arrowheads were found on the dirt floors. One cave that was hard to squeeze into became a magnificent chamber with a high waterfall and beautiful unbroken formations like nothing I have ever seen. It was so hidden I don’t know if I can find it again, but soon I am going back to try. Often, when we were trotlining, we slept in caves, always wrapped up in old musty-smelling quilts laid on top of a big canvas. Grandpa gained those quilts, which would be worth a great deal today, by trading catfish to some of the ladies in town who made them. He loved to

trotline, or to fish from some big river rock with willow poles and night-crawlers and minnows. But Dad and I had some Shakespeare reels and fiberglass rods we would use to catch goggle-eye and bass and green sunfish, casting some little spinner baits called shimmy flies, or lures like Flatfish and Lazy Ikes and Lucky 13’s. Grandpa never cast a lure in his whole life I don’t suppose, but he would often paddle for us, and I have never ever seen a man who could handle a johnboat like he could. I was learning. I had been making money paddling for fishermen. For the second year in a row, I had bought my own guides license and I would make fifty-cents an hour guiding fishermen from daylight to dark on the Big Piney, Little Piney, Roubidoux and Gasconade. Quite often I’d get a couple dollars added on as a tip. At thirteen, I knew just what I was going to do for the rest of my life, I was gonna be a fishing guide right there on the river I loved. That night on the gravel bar below ‘Hog Crick’, Grandpa was very reserved, almost morose. He was often like that, the happiest man I ever knew one day, and then so down in the dumps you’d think he had broke his best sassafras paddle. “You don’t know what an awful place this here world is gonna be someday,” he told me. “The freedoms men once had is disappearin’ an’ there’ll come a time when you’ll wanna leave and get far off from it.” For some reason, he was bothered by something happening overseas, where there was a big effort to take food and supplies to people where starvation was resulting from drought and famine. “You can’t make it right,” he said. “They live like all creatures in a natural world and it’s like this…if you save all of the people there from starvin’ this time around they’ll reproduce like crazy and starvin’ times come back. There’ll be twice

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186 Sale Barn Road Cassville, MO 417-847-3000 as many of ‘em to die or to save, and a time comes you just can’t do it. Folks nowadays can’t understand how the world is. We want it to be like we think it ought and it ain’t.” I heard him slurp a drink of that awful tasting hot coffee, and while I was gazing up at a sky bright with a million stars, he said something I will never forget. “See that johnboat of our’n, sittin’ there, boy. It’ll hold four, maybe five if I absolutely got to paddle it down the river in a flood.” “Put eight or ten people in it and it’ll sink and we’ll all drown. What you got to know is…when that flood comes, some can get in the boat and float away and some got to stay an’drown. It’s what nature is for all wild critters and mankind is the same way. You can build more boats and save more people from the flood that’s comin’ but you can’t build enough to save everybody forever.” I don’t know that I thought about it much that night, but I do now. We want to make this once-great nation into a packed gravel bar and there’s a big flood coming that is going to show how, eventually, nature’s laws are in charge of all populations, whether it is mice, rabbits or men. There were 180 million people in the nation then. Someday, if it continues like this there will be a billion people here. Our forests will fall, our water table will sink, our rivers will be

dirty and lifeless. There will be no place to retreat. Grandpa retreated to heaven in 1970, the week my first daughter was born. She became a doctor, and my two grandsons are as far from what I am as those stars are from the fire on the gravel bar that night. I was much like my grandfather and his father. Men were like that for centuries. No longer. The best of what our ancestors were is going fast, what they knew is gone. Common sense has vanished. I recall something my father told me often. He said that in the Bible it said that someday men would not abide sound reason. That day has come, I believe. It is a good thing you are not here Grandpa. Today, just as you said, television has become ol’ Satan’s great tool, and I don’t even want to tell you about something called the Internet and computers. The Big Piney is a shell of what it was. It has far less water today and is choked with slime. The shoal below the mouth of Hog Creek is too shallow to float in a johnboat. And you aren’t going to believe this but I swear it is true… women singers all sing and dance in their underwear!!! It was a great time back then, when you and I had that river and such a simple life. I wouldn’t trade those times for all the gold and all the money in the world. But today… most everyone else would.

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Donna Y England, RTRP englandtax@leru.net August • September 2016 | 63

To Doc, From Kate STORY BY STAN FINE

hroughout history the means by which fame was garnered varies greatly. One could become famous for their accomplishments and extraordinary feats or gain notoriety merely by the company they kept. Mary Kate Haroney acquired her fame by the latter means. Mary Kate, aka “Big Nose Kate,” was the sometimes girlfriend of John Holliday, aka, “Doc Holliday.” Doc was the infamous one-time dentist turned gambler, friend to Wyatt Earp and “wild west” figure known to have, throughout his colorful but short life, hastened the departure of many men. Kate was born in Hungary in 1850 and she enjoyed the privileged childhood lifestyle befitting that of the daughter of the personal physician to Emperor Maximillian of Mexico. That life of prominence however could not foretell the adult life that lay ahead for Kate. That life would find Kate working in saloons and brothels in America’s wild southwest, and it was in one of those establishments, John Shanssey’s Saloon in Ft. Griffin, Texas, where in the year 1877 she would meet and develop a close relationship with the notorious gambler and killer, Doc Holliday. Doc once referred to Kate as his intellectual equal. 64 |

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Hills&Hollows

There are those that said Doc became such a proficient killer of men because he placed so little value on his own life. Doc was diagnosed with Tuberculosis in 1868 causing him to eventually abandon his dentistry practice and transition into the profession of a professional gambler. Although the smoke filled bars he frequented and worked in worsened his medical condition, Doc found that it was in these seedy establishments where he earned his reputation. That reputation was heightened and forever carved deeply into wild west lore when on October, 26, 1881 he, and three brothers, Virgil, Morgan and his friend,Wyatt Earp, made that walk down the dusty Streets in Tombstone, Arizona to the O.K. Corral. Kate always asserted that she and Doc stayed together at C.S. Fly’s Boarding House in Tombstone prior to, and after, the shootout. Kate and Doc moved frequently throughout the southwest to such venues as Bisbee, Tucson, and Tombstone, Arizona. Kate later said the two, either together or alone, also traveled throughout parts of Colorado. It was sometime between 1877 and 1881 while the pair was together that Kate gave Doc a gift that was not only thoughtful, but practical;

a Remington .41 caliber nickel-plated double-barreled over and under derringer. Kate had an inscription engraved into the metal strap between the beautiful pearl grips that read, “To Doc from Kate.” As the years passed Doc’s affliction worsened and he left Arizona and moved to Glenwood, Colorado. There Doc continued to earn a living doing what he knew best, gambling and dealing poker. While working at a Glenwood saloon he became friends with the bartender there, William Wells. When Doc passed away in a Hotel Glenwood room in 1887 Wells received the Remington derringer as thanks for money given to help pay

for Doc’s funeral services. A priest and friend of Doc’s, Father Downey, gained possession of several other handguns once owned by the dentist turned gambler. Over the years the derringer was owned by Wells’ son, William, E. Dixon Larson and most recently, Bob Johnson. Johnson purchased the pistol from Larson’s widow several years ago and has now decided the time has come to sell the piece of history. Johnson contacted David and Shirley Barber, owners of David Barber Auctions, and asked that the gun be offered for sale at the auction’s May 30th, Memorial Dale sale. Sulphur Springs, Arkansas is a small town of approximately 400 people. The sleepy Northwest Arkansas town is located in the Ozarks and rests just five miles from the Missouri border. The residents there like the quiet serene and peaceful life, but that quiet is disrupted two Saturdays a month when people from all over flock to auctions held at the Barber Auction’s Butler Creek Auction Gallery. Shirley and David Barber, and their staff, work tirelessly to offer for sale the most interesting of items every other Saturday. Interested buyers can raise their hands to bid on clothing, furniture, antique glassware, tools and just about anything imaginable, including Doc’s derringer. The derringer, along with over 100 other firearms as well as knives and miscellaneous items of interest, was advertised to be sold at the May 30, 2016 sale. The sale was to begin at 9 a.m., but the gravel parking lot that surrounds the large metal building was almost full by 8 a.m. Potential bidders stood impatiently in line at the front counter waiting for the card with their unique number imprinted with the hope that the pistol, rifle or shotgun they came for would not be the one that others wanted. The Butler Creek Auction Gallery’s 8,000 square foot climate-controlled building can comfortably accommodate 250 seated bidders but some previous auctions have seen crowds of more than 500 people. The “Bid-Em Up Café” located inside the building is operated by David Barber’s parents, Dwayne and Vivian. Morning coffee is on the house and the pulled pork lunches always receive rave reviews. Occasionally, and only occasionally, Dwayne and Vivian announce that their homemade peach cobbler is fresh from the oven.

The building is decorated with old signs, primitives, an old copper still and a Shirley designed wall of quilts. David and Shirley employ an energetic and personable ensemble of full and part-time employees. David’s brother Greg works for the auction as does David’s sister, Kim, the Barber’s son, Levi, daughter, Tammy and others including Roxanne, Sharon-Sharon, Donna, Shane, Jamie and David S. Shirley acts as the auction manager while David describes and sells each item. The Memorial Day auction began slowly with fairly ordinary items being offered for sale but the pace, bids and selling prices gained momentum as the hours passed. Finally, and as mid-afternoon arrived, David began to praise the merits of purchasing the Remington derringer. He described and showed for all to see the volumes of provenance attesting to the gun’s authenticity as once belonging to the legendary Doc Holliday. That provenance included signed letters, documents and photographs. The large room was eerily quiet as David began to sell Kate’s gift to Doc. The bidding started at $5000.00 and quickly went to $7500.00 then David asked for a bid of $10,000.00 but to my disbelief, and to the amazement of others, there was no bid. The auctioneer’s head moved from side as he scanned the room but the gavel never fell and the word, “sold,” was not spoken. David continued to ask for a bid of $10,000.00 but still there was no offering from the crowd. David then announced that the estimated value of the derringer exceeded $50,000.00 but still there were no bids. The dismayed auctioneer declared that there was a reserve on the gun, a minimum amount that the owner would accept to complete the sale, but that amount was not divulged. That dollar amount was not met and, somewhat unexpectedly, the derringer that Kate had inscribed before gifting it to Doc went unsold. Although many relished the thought of owning such an unbelievable

piece of history they wouldn’t, or couldn’t, pay the reserve price. Over 104 firearms were sold at auction that Memorial Day, but Doc’s gun went unsold. Doc and Kate had a tumultuous relationship that befitted their lifestyles in those most dangerous of times. Who can say if and when Doc may have removed the derringer from his vest pocket during a heated argument at a poker table? The lifestyle choices made by Kate and Doc during the era they lived placed the two in perilous

positions at times. Sometimes the difference between life and death was slim at best. We have become much more civilized today, or so we like to believe, but the small .41 caliber derringer recently stirred the enthusiasm of those who saw it not at a smoke filled saloon’s poker table but rather while gazing at the nickel-plated firearm when it was offered for sale at auction. David and Shirley started their venture into auctioneering in 2007 with the sale of some personal items and have watched the Sulphur Springs based business grow into one of Northwest Arkansas largest and most successful auction businesses. The plans to double the size of the Butler Creek Auction Gallery are already in place and will soon come to fruition. Life for Doc and Kate was unpredictable as they traveled from Cowtown to Cowtown and saloon to saloon however, the sale of any item at auction is also unpredictable as David and Shirley Barber discovered that Memorial Day at the Butler Creek Auction Gallery in Sulphur Springs, Arkansas. As for Kate; she died on November 2nd 1949 just five days prior to celebrating her 90th birthday. Kate was laid to rest in the Arizona Pioneer Cemetery in Prescott, Arizona. August • September 2016 | 65

The Last Word

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Our duty is to preserve what the past has had to say for itself, and to say for ourselves what shall be true for the future. John Ruskin

We invite you to sit for a spell and visit. One workday a month, we are traveling to a coffee shop near you. You'll find us with our laptops open, a stack of magazines and notebooks, and a steaming cup of local brew while we work on our next issue of Ozark Hills and Hollows. If you are in the area, we would love for you grab a mug yourself, pull up a chair and visit. We love talking to our readers and gathering story ideas, and hearing about what's going on in your neck of the woods. Please stop and see us between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. 66 |

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OZARK

Hills&Hollows