Baja Sur San Ignacio Most of Mex 1 runs through Baja’s arid interior des-
ert. While Boojum (cirios) and cardón cacti pepper the landscape, there is little in the way of fresh water. However, when you turn off at San Ignacio, the brown transitions to green, palms appear, and then a beautiful blue lagoon manifests with campsites and cabins available. The town is clean and authentic with a well-preserved mission and colorful town square. Cozy restaurants dot the streets and locals add to the charm. San Ignacio is the jumping off point for 4WD roads into the interior and several interesting tracks leading to the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Cortez.
Santa Rosalía Despite the crooked Pemex operators, Santa Ro-
The Feared Federales Chris Collard
I traveled in Baja three times last year. I drove the entire peninsula twice, camped on beaches, bought fish from local pescadores (fishermen), and socialized with local villagers. On one of my trips I spent a day with Chef Bernard, former chef to El Presidente de México and current Ambassador of tequila (yes, Mexico has an Ambassador of tequila) and the next day with Baja’s Minister of Tourism. The one message they requested I return home with was “Please tell America that Baja is safe, secure, and a wonderful place to visit.”
116
The Mexican military provides policing in Mexico. It can be a little disconcerting for many north-of-the-border types to contemplate having a half-dozen well-armed eighteen-year-olds pull you over, inspect your vehicle and search through your bags. I’m trying to recall the first time I was face to face with one of Baja’s fatigue-wearing, machinegun-toting federales. The thing I do remember is that he was tall and had a big gun. Of course, I was probably about eight or nine years of age. The other thing that comes to mind is that my father seemed to be on his best behavior, at least until the ordeal was over. Today, Mexico and the U.S. are allies in the war on drugs. Federale searches, whether on Mex 1 or a seemingly deserted two-track, are routine and not to be feared. They might request to look through a few storage boxes, behind your seats, or inside your cooler (offering a cold beverage after the inspection is always appreciated…but not expected). With a smile, a nod, maybe a gracias, you’ll be on your way. I’ve been through hundreds of federale checkpoints over the years, and have never, and I’ll repeat, never had one go sideways. Just remember: the federales, the ones with the big guns and cold, stern stares, are usually on your side. FYI: Secondary searches when reentering the U.S. can be a more trying ordeal. The Baja economy relies heavily on tourism. Most of the peninsula’s inhabitants appreciate your presence. It means they may be able to feed their families this week.
Overland Journal Fall 2011
salía has become one of my favorite towns in Baja, principally because of its unique history and surprising historical buildings. Originally owned by a French mining conglomerate, the town has a French Quarter, positioned high on the hill with tropics-inspired homes and the Hotel Francis. In town there is a 120-year-old bakery that still turns out hot baguettes and other treats. We never pass through without filling up on bags of pan (bread). The most notable structure in Santa Rosalía is the iglesia (church), which is said to have been built by Gustave Eiffel and originally displayed alongside his more famous tower in the 1889 World’s Fair.
Bahía Concepción The village of Mulegé and the beach
camps along Conception Bay mark a notable transition into the subtropical region of Baja with evidence of greater rainfall. A small river runs through town and there are thousands of date palms. Mulegé is a fun, bustling town with small, crooked streets and many excellent restaurants. Little shops and even a coin-operated laundromat are available to resupply the weary traveler (note: park big trucks outside of town). One of my favorite campsites is about 20 minutes south of town on a small spit of sand called Requesón. I have met dozens of other overlanders on that little sand bar. The snorkeling is excellent and there is a small island to hike around on.
Agua Verde One of the top overland routes in Baja is the one-way
trek to Agua Verde, a roughly graded dirt track just south of Loreto. The road winds through the desert and over a mountain pass before switch-backing down a narrow canyon to a series of bays—the final bay being the setting of a small village and single restaurant. Camping is available, fresh fish can usually be purchased right from the catch, and I’ve enjoyed a panga (boat) tour led by an enterprising local who showed us sea lions, bird rookeries and several caves.
San Evaristo If a serious overland trek is on the agenda, the remote, rugged route to San Evaristo—though difficult to locate—is one of the best on the peninsula. The track, which winds its way through washouts, loose climbs and narrow shelf roads, is best suited for the experienced Baja traveler. Deep gorges and canyons fall away from an