firstperson gobike gofast The elusive “gravel grinder,” captured in its native element. Photo: Rob Nelson
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Most importantly, bring a friend. In a worst-case scenario, you’ll wish you had someone to go for help. Best case? You’ll want someone to share the experience. To this day, I’ve yet to see another biker who wasn’t along for the ride. In fact, I rarely encounter another human — besides the occasional hunter or state vehicle — all just as surprised to see me as I am to see them.
200 MILES OF TRAFFIC-FREE ADVENTURE AND BREATHTAKING SCENERY.
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THE ROAD questionauthority LESS TRAVELED
Sometimes loose gravel is the best pavement.
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Riding bikes isn’t for everybody. And bobbling down bumpy roads isn’t for all bikers. But if you’ve got a cycling itch no smooth surface can scratch, leave the bypass and Route 12 behind — and point your handlebars west toward the Alligator River Wildlife Refuge and a hybrid craze called “gravel grinding.”
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“Basically, it’s road riding on unpaved roads,” explains Jan Heine, editor of Bicycle Quarterly magazine. “Mountain biking is about mastering the trail — a lot of technical skill and major bumps. This is more like road cycling, where skill is important, but the experience is more gliding through the landscape. And anytime your tires slip it’s a liberating feeling.”
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Over the past 10 years, more lifetime cyclists have begun chasing that feeling on gritty back roads. Perhaps “roadies” are getting tired of battling traffic and angry motorists. Or maybe mountain bikers are sick of breaking shoulders and paying hospital bills. Whatever the reason, this year more than 60 100-mile-plus “monster cross” and “adventure races” await from Utah to the UK. But you don’t need to pin a number to your jersey to prove yourself. Alligator River National Wildlife
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ankle twist can become a major problem. And a tiny mechanical issue can leave you fully screwed. Always use reliable gear that can handle rough terrain. Gears are not necessary — in fact, they can end up a liability — but plump tires are preferable. You’ll also want to bring water, food and the ability to fix a flat tire or make any repairs.
Refuge is home to some of the best gravel-grinding grounds on the whole Eastern Seaboard — 200 miles of twisting, turning, traffic-free adventure promising immense solitude and breathtaking scenery. Starting is easy. Just park your car in the lot at Milltail Road and take off. Ten miles in, the gravel ends and the dirt roads begin. From there things get more intense with every mile. Expect stretches of knee-high grass and deep puddles. But that’s the whole challenge — and half the fun. Just hoist your frame up and start hiking. Curse the cold water with a few choice screams to scare the birds skyward. Or, if it’s truly impassable, you can turn around and find another path. The more you familiarize yourself with the terrain and the weather, the better you can pick your routes. And in the wake of a major storm, stick to “Wildlife Drive.” These gravel routes are closer to the highway and stay marked by small signs — sometimes QR codes for wildlife interpretation — and they remain relatively bikeable in the worst conditions. But even on the sunniest days, you still need to be 100% selfsufficient. When cell phone service is practically nil a simple
But why? In an age of triathlons and “Tough Mudders” you’d think more cyclists and extreme fitness buffs would push their limits by pedaling off-road. Is it the lack of an entry fee that keeps them away? The fact there’s no scoreboard or time limits? And is wading through mud puddles any more intense — or insane — than swimming through ice baths and running among electrical wires? These are the riddles I ponder every time I go on a solo ride for 60 miles through the untamed wilderness. And whenever I press fellow bike nerds for answers, these are the questions I get in return: Q: “Aren’t the roads straight and flat and boring?” A: Yes. But so is every paved road on the Outer Banks. Q: “Aren’t the bugs really bad?” A: Yes. Just like your backyard. Spray down, keep moving and you’ll be fine. Q: “Don’t you see a lot of bears out there?” A: Yes… if you’re lucky. And that’s the real reason to trek through the refuge: the animals and sights you might come across — or might come across you. I’ve startled alligators basking in the sun. Watched countless bears. Nearly run over snoozing bobcats. Crept up on slinking otters and swung wide around rattlesnakes. One time I even bunny-hopped a moccasin. But of all the cool things I’ve seen, I’ve rarely seen the same thing twice. And I could never say that for Bay Drive. — Jesse Davis milepost 41