BUREAU EAU DE TOILETTE
BY THOM BROWNE.
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OUDULIN CHEN. FASM 430 CAPSTONE PROJECT.
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Table of Contents
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Mission Statement. Company Overview. Brand Image Board. Industry / Market Analysis. Customer Profiles. Key Competitor Profiles. Scent Development. Scent Inspiration.
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Ingredients. Bottle Inspiration. Packaging Drafts. Product Positioning / Assortment plan. Customer Profiles. Conlusion Reference.
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Mission Statement
After taking the first course offered in fragrance marketing in SCAD, and continuing the second phase of it, I have been inspirited to created a scent for the luxury brand Thom Browne for my capstone. This is an opportunity as Thom Browne has yet to develop a fragrance, and could be a factor in the fragrance market place. The creation of this product line encompasses all of the classes that I have taken at SCAD. This product offering will expand the Thom Browne brand, as well as create additional revenue. By researching the brand identity, industry and market data, competitive landscape, and target customers, my project will deliver a scent that follows the aesthetics and core value of Thom Browne, and allow the brand to connect further with its loyal and valued consumers.
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Company Overview
Founded in 2003 in New York City, Thom Browne is a luxury designer brand offering both men and women’s apparel and accessories in an essentially modern and spare aesthetic. Mr. Browne’s business started out as a made-to-measure, custom suit business, and now that is still a big part of what his company does. As an influential American designer, Mr. Browne is a cutting-edge traditionalist, known as a revolutionary designer. His reintroduction of classic and uniform-like silhouettes are focused on details and craftsmanship. He is directly targeting people who are confident and willing to be simple, classic yet edgy and sophisticated.
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Thom Browne currently offers quite comprehensive product categories for both men and women with comparatively luxury price point, but developing a fragrance line will be an opportunity for Thom Browne to add to the product assortment. The sense of smell is deeply tied to emotion and memory, so developing fragrance can not only promote brand building but also create an in depth connection with customers that is not possible with other products. Fragrance can eventually become the cornerstone of the brand.
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Brand Image Board
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Industry / Market Analysis
According to the reports from Euromonitor, the fragrance industry has performed well in 2015 to achieve a 3% growth, reaching sales of $7.8 billion. In particular, niche premium fragrances especially unisex ones have become a driving force and delivered a powerful growth of 23%, while mass fragrances as a whole have declined by 2%. Furthermore, premium men’s fragrances have contributed a strong growth of 21%, and a stable 24% growth for premium women’s fragrances. Undeniably, premiumisation is now a huge trend happening in the fragrance industry, since premium fragrances usually provide customers with more personalitiy, as well as a higher level of experience. Thus, it was not surprising to see an increasing number of fashion brands have developed fragrance lines such as Alaïa and Proenza Schouler. Overall, premium fragrances as a whole have been predicted to have a 17.4% growth and simultaneously a 15% decline for mass fragrances from 2015 to 2020.
Even though men in the US are now feeling more comfortable using fragrances, both men and women are increasingly turning to unisex scents. Premium unisex fragrances are expected to post the best performance by growing 103%. However, due to the brand identity and core value of the origin of Thom Browne, this capstone project is developing a premium men’s fragrance which will still follow industry trend and is expected to perform well to the core customers of Thom Browne and others. In addition, this initial fragrance has been developed to cater to the needs of Thom Browne customer. Once success is achieved, the offering will be expanded and most likely be unisex in nature.
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“I don’t really equate style with clothes, I equate it with the person who’s wearing the clothes.” Thom Browne
Customer Profiles
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Age Group: 50 - 60 Income Level: $160,000 or higher Education: Bachelor’s Degree or higher Living in metropolitain city Having defined personal style Always shopping for goods with high quality and craftsmanship Kowning what he wants and go straight forward to it
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Age Group: 20 - 30 Income Level: $25,000 or higher Education: Bachelor’s Degree or higher Living in urban area Do not hesitate to dry different styles Tech-savvy Shopping through multi Fragrance lover and will invest for appreciating scent
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Age Group: 30 - 40 Income Level: $100,000 or higher Education: Bachelor’s Degree or higher Living in major city, and travel frequently Care about personal style and thoughtful Confident, self-motivated focusing on quality but less price consious
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Key Competitor Profiles
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Size Offering: 7.5ml, 50ml, 100ml, 250ml Price Range: $78 - $320 Eau De Parfum, Eau De Cologne, Perfumed Oil
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Size Offering: 1.Ooz, 1.7oz, 3.4oz, 6.7oz Price Range: $46 - $320 Eau De Parfum, Eau De Toilette
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Size Offering: 30ml, 50ml, 100ml, 250ml Price Range: $78 - $710 Eau De Parfum, Eau De Toilette
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Scent Development
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LINEAR GENTLE ALLURING ESSENTIAL QUIRKY
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“I like the idea of something that’s classic and a uniform—but it’s really important not to make it boring. Simple and classic is the way I think most people should look, especially guys.” Thom Browne
Scent Inspiration
Taking the inspiration of the quote above, the scent aids to create conjunct olfactory fingerprints and memories between Mr. Browne himself, the brand, and the customers. A scent that is not just an additional accessory, but also seen as daily essential to the customers from day to night, home to office, not just limited to sit on the shelf, as well as being appropriate to be put on an office table, to anywhere where the customers might go. This aromatic Fougère scent has closely tied with Thom Browne aesthetic, just like the simple theory that a single line connects two points together, which is the brand and the customers. That is the name of this scent, BUREAU.
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Top notes
Bergamot Citrus, fruity-sweet with mild spicy hints
Dihydromyrcenol Powerful, thin, sweet, fresh, lavender-like, fruity, metallic, citrusy (linalyl acetate-like), clary sage-like
Aurantiol Similar in odour to methyl anthranilate, but more sweet, oily, waxy, powdery and floral
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Heart notes Tubereuse
Repro Pear
Sweet, exotic, complex, velvety floral opulence
Crisp and clean, Subtler and ‘greener’ than many fruits
Cassis
Vetiver
ight, fruity, woody note with a slightly animalic edge
earthy, damp, woodsy and smoky
Eugenol Strong smelling, clove, spicy, woody odour
Iso E Super Smooth, woody, amber note, with a “velvet-like” sensation
Evernyl Powerful, oakmoss, woody, phenolic
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Base notes
Tonka Bean Sweet spice, vanilla, praline and almond
Cedarwood Woody, fresh, with hints of resin
Cashmeran
Vertofix
little-bit-musky, a-little-bit-spicy, a-little-bit-powdery, to add an extra, almost tactile sensuality to perfumes
Warm precious-wood musky, amber , and leather undertone
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Opening with a citrus top, the BUREAU gets more interesting with different textures of well-blended elements which are from the icy warm heart notes as well as the creamy sweet base when it is drid down. From top to bottom, the scent has delivered a nice woody, musky, powdery, and a little bit spice scent with a fresh but smoky edge in it.
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Bottle Inspiration
30 silver cap with stud
additional brush come with the 100ml set to help apply fragrance
inspired by Chinese calligrapgy brush, easy to absorb liquid
BUREAU EAU DE TOILETTE 100 ML
THOM BROWNE.
dark graphite glass with 70% of transparency
white label with batch numbering
1.
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Secondary Packaging Inspiration
The secondary packaging is inspired by diamond display. Smoky grey acrylic box with eight magnet studs, wrapped by the typical Thom Browne aesthetic accessory packaging.
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Product Positioning / Assortment plan
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Carefully selecting IFF as the scent developer and licensing with Puig to bring this fragrance to market, the BUREAU Eau De Toilette (3 to 8% essential oils) will come in two sizes, both with stopper – 50ml with market price of $150, and 100ml with market price of $210, which has considered to enter the premium men’s fragrance market. The current offerings of Thom Browne are distributed through the Thom Browne stores in New York, Tokyo, Seoul and Hong Kong, its e-commerce, as well as at luxury designer specialty stores around the world such as Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman, Selfridges, and Lane Crawford, etc. However, this fragrance will be available only at selected brick-and-mortar and online retailers during the launch period, and will be released to all its current distribution channels after getting one year of successful sales.
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Marketing Strategy / Assortment plan
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PRE - LAUNCH During this period, which is around February to March, there will be inspirational photo and GIF teasers of the BUREAU continuely released on Thom Browne social media accounts such as Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter. In the meantime, PR articles will be released by several medias like WWD and BOF in order to give a good range of impact.
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LAUNCH Officially launching in the end of March ,which gives adequate time for the company planning sales and related marketing strategies during holidays. The BUREAU will be sold exclusively in Thom Browne New York store, Bergdorf Goodman Men’s Store, and Mr. Porter during the first three months. In addition, there will be featured window display for the BUREAU matching with Thom Browne collection and fixtures at Thom Browne New York store and Bergdorf Goodman Men’s store. Furthermore, there will be a landing page promotion for the selected online retailer Mr. Porter, and newsletters promotion sending to both customers of Bergdorf Goodman and Mr. Porter. During the launch day, the featured campaign and short video will be released as well as posted to the Thom Browne social media accounts at Instagram, Facebook, twitter, and YouTube.
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The launch event will be hold in Bergdorf Goodman Men’s Store, and top customers of Thom Browne, VIP Guests, Media professionals, selected celebrities and bloggers will be invited to this event. Later on there will be a launch dinner at BG Restaurant with only guests of Senior executives of our chosen retailers, Editors and selected celebrities. After the launch event, photos taken during the event will be posted later on by Thom Browne social media accounts and our guests. By doing this hopefully the whole launch promotion will prompt early adopters to purchase it.
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POST - LAUNCH At post-launch period, the BUREAU will be available to all of the Thom Browne stores in Japan, Hong Kong, and Seoul. In the meantime, the distribution channel will be expanded to five top-selling stores for each of the selected domestic retailers, which are Barneys New York, Neiman Marcus, and Saks Fifth Avenue. In addition, three more international retailers who actually hold Thom Browne collection are chosen to sell the BUREAU, which are le Bon MarchĂŠ in Paris, Dover Street Market in London and Tokyo, and Lane Crawford in Hong Kong and Beijing. There will be continually landing page and newsletter promotion, later on, photo campaigns are going to be released on magazines such as GQ and Playboy. At this stage, ideally Thom Browne BUREAU will obtain more international attention through different channels.
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Conclusion
“Taking classic ideas and reintroducing them provocatively.� This is how Thom Browne summed up his design aesthetic, and all of his products follow, so should this fragrance. This capstone project not only aids to deliver a strategic brand extension plan, but also a concept to bring the scent which is closely tied with the brand value to life. Furthermore, this fragrance could create a profit center to Thom Browne based upon prestige men’s fragrance is growing rapidly.
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Reference
https://www.thombrowne.com/about.html http://www.vanityfair.com/style/2015/08/thom-browne-style-suits?mbid=social_facebook http://thewindow.barneys.com/a-toast-to-thom-browne/ http://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2012-02-13/thom-browne-dares-bankers-to-sportsharp-suits-with-munster-cut http://0-www.portal.euromonitor.com.library.scad.edu/portal/analysis/tab https://www.pinterest.com
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FALL 2016 SAVANNAH COLLEGE OF ART AND DESIGN