Eight essential knots made easy How to really tie one on

BY KEVIN CALLAN

KNOWING HOW TO TIE A PERFECT KNOT MAY come as second nature to some people, but to most the skill seems elusive. I’m with the majority. I never “got it” back in the days of Boy Scouts. And it’s not that I didn’t try to master this art. I’ve bought knot books, sat on the front porch for hours practising things like the sheet bend, monkey’s fist, Turk’s head and hangman’s noose.

When it came to actually using them in the field, however, I panicked and tied things down with half a dozen granny knots, then hoped for the best. The day I watched my canoe drift off down some rapids because of a poorly tied bowline was the day I committed to learning at least eight of the 4,000 known and documented knots.

Here’s a list of essential knots – those that are easy to remember in a pinch.

This is the best knot to form a nonslip loop. It’s considered the king of knots, and has the advantage of that catchy “rabbit and the hole” chant to help you remember how to tie it: “The rabbit comes out of the hole, goes around the tree, and back down the hole again.”

Looping the rope forms the “hole.” The rabbit is the rope’s free end, and the tree is the other

standing part of the rope. For added security, end the knot with a figure eight or two half hitches.

To untie jammed-up knots, quickly and firmly twist the sections of rope on the outside of the knot back and forth while pushing in slack at the same time.

Another method involves using a thin stick (called a “fid”) to slide into an opening in the knot to pry the rope segments apart.

The trucker’s hitch is the ultimate combination of a knot-andpulley system. 3 4 It’s a great way to rig rain tarps and tent guy ropes, or just tighten up a clothesline. However, the best use of this knot is for cinching down a canoe or kayak on top of your vehicle. First, tie off the rope onto the roof rack on one side of the load. Then, about three quarters along, twist the rope to form a loop and bring the loose end through the loop to form a second loop. Take note that the higher up you make the loop, the more powerful the hitch will be. Now, pass the rope around the other side of the roof rack, and bring it back through the loop. Pull and hold down the grip by finishing off with a half hitch.

The clove hitch is a quick and easy knot for tying things up, and the best part is that it’s easy to adjust and untie, even after you apply a heavy load to 1 1A the rope. Tie this knot using one of two methods. The first involves making two loops by twisting the

rope in opposite directions. Now, place the left loop under the left side of the right loop. This forms the hole, which you

then place over the object you want to tie onto. To finish, pull both ends of the rope to tighten. The second method involves wrapping the rope around the object. Next, wrap the running end around a second time and pass it under the first wrap. Pull both ends to secure the hitch. Either method works, but the first can only be used when the rope can be placed over the object you’re tying onto.

The overhand knot serves two purposes. The initial step creates a great “stopper” knot at the end to 3 4 prevent the rope from slipping through another knot, or just to tie off a loose end. Just pass the end of the rope over itself and then back through the loop formed. Pull and tighten. If you do the same procedure but with a loop formed at the end of the rope, you can create a makeshift bowline. It’s not as strong as the bowline, but it has the advantage of creating a loop anywhere you want along a length of rope.

This is the best and quickest way to tie two ropes together. Start by placing the two ropes parallel to each other. Then

tie one rope on to the other by wrapping it over and around the other, forming an overhand knot on the second piece of rope. Repeat with the other two ends. Tighten and pull. It’s an easy procedure but not as effective as a double fisherman’s knot, which is a little 1 2 more complicated.

This knot, known by some 3 4 as the “improved clinch knot,” is used to secure fishing line to a fishhook. You can also use it for tying down anything around camp. Run the end of a line through the eye of the hook. Then, wrap the free end around the line five or

six times. This forms another loop between the first wrap and the eye of the hook. Feed the free end through that loop, and pull to tighten. Clip the end of the line that remains (a standard nail clipper will do the trick). Experts say it’s the only knot that won’t let the fish get off, unless it breaks the line.

The Prusik knot (named after its inventor Dr. Karl Prusik, twice head of the Austrian Alpine Club) has the advantage of creating a loop (which is usually tied onto another length of rope). The loop won’t slip when you add weight to it, but it will slide easily when you remove the weight. Climbers 1 use this knot extensively to move up or down a vertical rope.

First, create a small loop or circle of rope by using the fisherman’s knot (see above). Place the small loop on the far side of the larger diameter of rope. Wrap one free end around to the other

side and tuck it under the loop formed. One wrap and tuck will do, but the more you repeat the process, the greater the friction of the knot.

Campers use this hitch knot to tie 1 down and adjust the tension on a rope attached to a tent peg. The knot forms a loop that can be easily adjusted by sliding it up and down the main line. Start by pulling the free end around the object and placing it under the standing end. Now, wrap the free end 2 around the standing end. Wrap it a second time. To cinch it off, bring the free end back to the standing line, placing it on top of the rope and just in front of the first wrap. Now, make a half hitch by tucking the free end under the loop you formed and pull

to tighten.

Now that you know the basic knots, you’ll never watch helplessly as your canoe runs a set of rapids solo! ≈ From Kevin Callan, The Happy Camper: An Essential Guide to Life Outdoors, Boston Mills Press, 2005. Used by permission. Look for it at several local bookstores.

BY CHRIS SIDWELL (DORLING KINDERSLEY $20)

CYCLING enthusiasts of all levels will be eager to undertake the all-inclusive program outlined in Chris Sidwell’s 7-Week Cycling for Fitness. Sidwell is a true cycling aficionado, whose cycling expertise is extensive, ranging from writing and broadcasting to journalism and racing. He offers sound advice and clear instructions in a conversational writing style. The program itself, as well as supplementary chapters, will prepare everyone to get the most out of their cycling experience. The book promotes cycling not only as a great way to stay fit but also as an enjoyable way to explore.

The program is suitable for all kinds of bikes and can be adapted to stationary ones. The training focuses on length of time, terrain, heart rate, and intensity of the workout. Each week has a particular focus with rest days slotted between each exercise day. Week Four is a little different in its approach as it allows one to evaluate how much one has progressed. Threshold levels, sprinting, and uphill biking are just a sampling of the many topics that are addressed. Of particular appeal are the Overview and At-a-Glance features for each week and the Session Summaries which indicate the types of training to be undertaken. The instructions are well presented and straightforward. The program will not only put one on a path to peak cycling condition but will help the reader achieve a better sense of overall fitness.

The visual presentation is particularly appealing as it uses a high degree of photographic content. This feature greatly aids the reader in everything from choosing, operating, and repairing a bike to understanding muscular fitness. Much of the photography is taken on the road and is an excellent means of allowing readers to better grasp the concept being explained. The program is highly suitable for beginners but it also provides a wealth of information for experienced cyclists as well. An assortment of charts, sidebars, and index boxes further assist readers in implementing the program. 7-week Cycling for Fitness is a title that is strongly recommended for any cycling enthusiast. It can be used each year as a reliable preparatory source for the upcoming cycling season. It is an ideal complement to Chris Sidwell’s previous release, the Complete Bike Book.

READING TIME WELL SPENT: • Complete Bike Book, by Chris Sidwell (Dorling

Kindersley, $22.95) • Pocket Mountain Bike Maintenance, by Max Allwood (Firefly Books, $19.95) • Marathon and Half Marathon: The Beginners Guide, by

Marnie Caron (Greystone Books, $22.95) • Backpack, Boots, and Baguettes: A Walk in the Pyrenees, by Simon Calder (Virgin Books, $19.95)