Canoeing Algonquin Park

BY CHANTAL MACARTNEY ILLUSTRATIONS BY WILLIAM JESSUP

IF MR. BEAN went on an Algonquin Park canoe trip, what would it be like? Would he think out the entire trip to steer clear of unnecessary hassles, or would he stumble blindly from one avoidable disaster to another?

We all know the answer. It would be funny – very funny – to watch, but not to experience.

Yet if you’ve spent much time canoe tripping, you’ll have seen people who could be Mr. Bean stand-ins: novice paddlers with dangerously overloaded canoes at the trailhead; young couples (or a group of teens) happily zigzagging down the middle of the lake into the teeth of an approaching storm; nice people with lots of enthusiasm but little or no experience.

Last summer, an Algonquin Park forest ranger recalled two first-time canoe trippers packing a full gas BBQ (including stand) into their heavily overloaded canoe at Smoke Lake. Luckily they sank near the dock and nobody got hurt. This might sound extreme, but according to the ranger it’s a common occurrence.

If you’ve always wanted to paddle off into wilderness bliss but don’t know anything about how to prepare, here are seven basics. Do it right and you’re more likely to have a great trip – one worth repeating again and again.

Lot’s of people think they can merely change paddling sides (left side, then right side) repeatedly to keep the canoe heading in a straight line. When you see this on a lake you know one of two things: The paddlers are either Olympic level racers, or they’re complete novices – perhaps even relatives of Mr. Bean. Switching sides every two or three strokes may work in a total calm, but not when a breeze starts to ripple the water. At the best of times this practice will give a false sense of security and control. When paddling on a river with a strong current, it could be dangerous.

Here’s a solution. Take at least a twohour canoe lesson from a paid expert, and take it jointly with the person you’ll be paddling with. Not only will a twohour lesson ensure some measure of real competence in the canoe, but both paddlers will learn how to work in harmony – a real benefit when you’re dipping your paddle simultaneously several thousand times a day.

The bow paddler should learn the following strokes: forward power stroke, draw, and pry. The stern paddler should learn the J-stroke, pry, sweep, and draw. Both of you should learn how to execute these minimum strokes. Since the person in the stern is the one steering, this person in particular must be familiar with the different ways each stroke moves the boat.

For details of these strokes, see Bill Mason’s classic Path of the Paddle: an Illustrated Guide to the Art of Canoeing. It’s available in most libraries. Mr. Bean might be happy enough to flip through the pages, glancing momentarily at the paddle stroke illustrations. You should carefully study the photos and description before heading out for your two-hour lesson.

Your first canoe trip should be no longer than a weekend on flat water. Avoid river rapids. Choose a park relatively close to your home, and spend time poring over your route. Don’t be too ambitious. Plan a leisurely trip. Speak to others about the route you want to take. Ask questions like: How long are the portages? Are they relatively flat and wide, or will we have to scramble through thick undergrowth? Are they well marked and easily seen from the water? Are there prepared campsites with fire pits and some form of outhouse?

Until you are more experienced, don’t plan on more than two portages a day; none should be longer than 350 metres. Avoid carrying all your gear in one trip and count on several trips from one end of the portage to the other. The idea is to enjoy your first canoe adventure safely, not to overstep your capability and have a miserable time.

Bring lots of large, extra-strength, see-through garbage bags and ties. When you are starting off, put everything in them. It’s amazing how things can get splashed even on a sunny day.

Here’s how to use the garbage bags. Line the inside of your backpack with a bag. This will guarantee that whether you splash too much or get caught in a downpour, your clothes will remain dry. Dry clothes keep you warm at night. (A dry, warm camper is a happy camper.) While paddling, put your sleeping bag in a garbage bag too, as well as your tent.

Also, take along a package of large Ziplocs, perfect for keeping toiletries or snacks dry.

Only a wide-brimmed hat provides sun protection from all angles: front, sides and back. A baseball cap only provides frontal shade, leaving your neck and temples exposed. More expensive models (e.g. Tilly hats) have a chin strap to keep your head covered even in heavy wind.

Wear lots of sunblock (minimum UV 30) and stay covered in light cotton for much of the day. Even on a cloudy day, ultraviolet rays can give you a bad sunburn. Put sunblock on cheeks, ears, and nose – all exposed areas.

Sunglasses that offer ultraviolet protection are also vital. Rays from the sun can reflect off the water surface and give your eyes a nasty burn that can lead to temporary blindness. (In winter we call this snowblindness.)

Everyone should carry a water bottle, and drink at least one litre every two hours – much more on a hot day when you’re really exerting yourself. When in doubt, drink more. Your urine should appear clear, not yellow. The more yellow (or worse, brown), the greater your need for water.

Very important: put your canoe in the water first! This is not as self-evident as you may think. Algonquin Park rangers can tell many stories of people who completely load their canoe on land and then drag it 30 metres to the lake. Really! Is this something that Mr. Bean might try?

Packing your canoe correctly takes a bit of thought, but it’s not rocket science. Start by carefully putting the heaviest objects (like camp stove, tents, cooler) in the bottom of your canoe first, balancing fore, aft and sides for stability. Then pack lighter objects around the heavy stuff. Don’t pile the canoe too high or wind will catch it and blow you around. Before getting in, pull your canoe away from shore so it floats on its own. If it leans to one side even slightly, reposition your gear.

Fully loaded (gear and passengers), the sides of your canoe should be at least 23 centimetres (nine inches) above water to avoid swamping. If your boat doesn’t provide this basic safety margin, leave some gear at home or rent a larger canoe. Never compromise safety. It’s surprising how high waves can get, and they won’t always slide under the canoe.

Two adults will need a 16-foot canoe to comfortably fit all their gear. Three adults will need at least a 17-foot boat.

Bring quality tents that provide lots of space to keep you dry. A four-man tent is really only comfortable for two adults with their gear. (On a wet day, extra space provides room for card games, etc.)

Pitch the tent on flat, slightly angled ground. The slope will help drain water away from your tent when – not if – it rains (remember: be prepared). Avoid setting up your tent in a depression, no matter how tempting it might appear. A low area will only collect water – not a good thing unless your tent can float!

Bring a tarpaulin and lots of rope. An eight to 10-foot tarpaulin stretched between trees provides lots of space for two people. On a rainy day, it’s great to sit under a tarp near your campfire with a mug of hot chocolate and a book. For information on how to hang a tarpaulin, see the Ottawa Outdoors Summer 2003 issue for a full explanation.

For colder weather (May or August-September camping), bring a thick fleece. It will keep you warm and cozy in the evening and at night.

No matter what the season, bring a tuque. You’ll be glad you have it if you wake up cold in the middle of the night. Slip it into your pillowcase or sleeping bag so you won’t have to root around looking for it in the dark.

Wild animals are wonderful to look at, but feeding them may result in abnormal behaviour and even danger. Chipmunks are a terrible problem in Algonquin Park. I’ve heard stories of campers virtually attacked by hungry chipmunks that jumped on sleeping bags and tents and started ripping at the fabric, trying to find food. And that’s when the gear was just being unloaded on the beach! Feeding “cute” chipmunks makes them dependent on humans; when the summer

ends, those chipmunks will starve.

Don’t leave food lying around your site. Store it in plastic jars or other containers, and hang it up if you aren’t going to need it for a few hours.

Never eat food in your tent, day or night. This includes cookies, candy or granola bars. Eating in your tent can

leave food odours on the fabric that can attract bears.

Mr. Bean wouldn’t put much effort into a canoe trip, but then again, he probably wouldn’t have much fun – the real goal. ≈ Chantal Macartney is a regular contributor to Ottawa Outdoors Magazine, and an avid camper.