travel by Karen Temple
The Loire Valley
Medieval cities, vineyards, forests and delicious food The regional wines of the Loire Valley are celebrated around the world. The food, including local cheese, charcuterie, and produce, is simple but spectacular while the vibe is laid-back in this valley of medieval cities that was once home to French kings. There is a road in that begins in northern France and cuts east with a southern curve to it. It follows the Loire River on the ancient route between Lyon and Rome were the Romans once cultivated grapes, the Vikings and Barbarians invaded, and French kings built breathtaking castles. Initially fortified dwellings, by the early Renaissance the castles became extravagant hunting lodges and homes for the kings and for the ministers who collected taxes on behalf of the monarch. Hunting, fishing, agriculture (and er . . . castle building) all thrived in this limestone-rich valley known as the ‘Garden of France’. In the middle of the valley sits the city of Bourge, the capital of France during the 100-Years’ War (mid-15th century to mid-16th century). It likely made practical sense to set up shop here as the fortified wall around the city protected it from the Vikings who besieged it for 15 years before retreating. Incredibly, homes have been built right on top of the ancient wall and appear to mesh almost seamlessly with it. Inside the wall, the architecture is simply spectacular. There is a combination of stately stone structures and timber40 OTTAWALIFE SPRING 2020
topped ones that all appear to lean in different directions. In its day, Bourge was a big city. As a result of being home to the French government, no expense was spared on creating beautiful buildings. The most spectacular of all is the Gothic/Romanesque Cathedral St Etienne of Bourges. Completed in 1245 it is a wonderful example of flying buttresses and elaborate stone carvings. The stained-glass windows are three high; it is no wonder that the cathedral is a UNESO World Heritage Site. During the WWII the stainedglass was painstakingly removed and hidden away. Not far away is the Chateau de Chambord. It was built at a time when King Francis I, was looking to signal the glory of the French court. He invited Leonardo da Vinci to help design the
structure. Although there is no paper record of his hand in the construction of Chambord, the castle was built three years after da Vinci’s arrival in the area and was like no other castle in Europe at the time. The double-helix staircase – imagine two intertwining DNAs – is simply amazing. The intricate and ornate towers on the roof are incredible too. When you are there, make sure to pay the extra fee for the HistoPads: an iPad with an app that brings many of the 60 rooms back to life as they were in medieval/early Renaissance times. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Steeped in history, Chinon is the birthplace of Richard the Lionheart. The stained glass windows of St. Etienne of Bourges fill the cathedral with magical coloured light. The city of Bourges has a long history that dates back to the Roman Empire.
