39 ON OUR RADAR
QATAR'S NO. 1 FASHION MAGAZINE W W W.G L A M QATA R .C O M
Mohawk turbans, emerging contemporary Arab label and Qatar’s pick of quirky tshirts - it’s a whimsical one!
1 DRESS, 3 DECADES
Whatever age or ocassion you are, we nail down the right accessories to style the one perfect cocktail dress.
42 MOTHER’S DAY
Gifts for the most important woman in your life, or spoil yourself silly for being a great mum yourself too!
44 ACE THE TREND NOW
Four must-have trends to get your wardrobe Spring ready.
Contents 48 LOUIS VUITTON
Louis Vuitton’s third collaborative effort with street artists from around the world. We get the 101 from the artists.
52 FABULOUS FASHIONISTAS Six inspiring women with an average age of 80 show us that aging is a wonderful and stylish journey.
60 ODE TO MINIMALISM
Mother daughter duo Tamara and Alia El-Tanani share anedoctes on life, working together and raiding each other’s wardrobe in our Mother’s Day Special.
66 STYLE LINEAGE
The statesque Raya Al-Khalifa and Wanda Al-Daghistani talk to us about their love of vintage jewellery and all things fashion in celebration of Mother’s Day.
72 A LOCAL MAGIC
Lulwa Al-Amin, designer behind Qatari brand Pearl Designs, is over the moon as she gets the opportunity to show at London Fashion Week.
82 AL ANEEQ
Introducing our brand new fashion page showcasing the latest trends and sharp shooters in men’s fashion.
QATAR'S NO. 1 FASHION MAGAZINE MARCH 2014
ON THE COVER TAMARA AND ALIA EL TANANI PHOTOGRAPH: ANGEL MALLARI
GLAM SOCIAL MEDIA
SINDHU NAIR DEBRINA ALIYAH
CHIEF FASHION CORRESPONDENT SENIOR CORRESPONDENTS
EZDHAR IBRAHIM ALI
SENIOR ART DIRECTOR
DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR
HANAN ABU SIAM
ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR
SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER
AYUSH INDRAJITH MAHESHWAR REDDY B
SENIOR MANAGER – MARKETING
ASSISTANT MANAGER – MARKETING
SENIOR MEDIA CONSULTANTS
MARKETING RESEARCH & SUPPORT EXECUTIVE
SR. DISTRIBUTION EXECUTIVE
ZULFIKAR JIFFRY THOMAS JOSE
KANWAL BALUCH PRATAP CHANDRAN BIKRAM SHRESTHA ARJUN TIMILSINA BHIMAL RAI
PUBLISHER AND EDITOR–IN–CHIEF
The Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid is one of the upcoming stars of fashion month. Check out the highlights and behind the scenes images of select Spanish designers which include the debuts of 21 emerging designers from Spain. The MBFWM is also home turf to Inditex, the retail giant behind Zara, Pull & Bear and Stradivarius.
EVENTS OF THE MONTH Cuplè Boutique Opening Landmark Mall 5th March, 6pm Spanish label Cuplè has arrived in Qatar and is celebrating its launch with a unique shopping experience event with a focus on introducing the fun label. Local bloggers, Nomad*, Desert Mannequin and LePaperDoll will be part of the opening event. Guests will enjoy special offers and a first look at their new collection.
YOUSUF JASSEM AL DARWISH
EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT
GLAM IS PUBLISHED BY ORYX ADVERTISING CO. WLL. THE CONTENTS OF THIS PUBLICATION ARE SUBJECT TO COPYRIGHT AND CANNOT BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT THE EXPRESS PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHER AND/OR LICENSE HOLDER. ALL RIGHTS REST WITH DATALOG MEDIA SOLUTIONS. THE PUBLISHER DOES NOT ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY ADVERTISING CONTENTS CARRIED IN THIS PUBLICATION. CONTACT INFO@OMSQATAR.COM, GLAM@OMSQATAR.COM WWW.ISSUU.COM/ORYXMAGS WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/GLAMQATAR CALL US: +974 44550983, 44672139, 44671178, 44667584 FAX: +974 44550982
Next month, we get a one-on-one with Luca Caprai, founder of Cruciani and Cruciani C. The label has been making major headlines with its cute and versatile lace bracelets. Hitting it big with Middle Eastern customers, there have been many special Dubai editions of the bracelets including this sleek one that features the skyline of Dubai.
Contributors ABDULLA AL ABDULLA Abdulla Al Abdulla is a Qatari designer who was born in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia. He started traveling the world at a young age, thanks to his father who is an ambassador. After living in places such as Morocco and London, Abdulla is simply a collection of different cultures and influences. At the age of 20, he started his own fashion label named The Gild and is tackling a law degree at the same time. Much as with his fascination with fashion, he became known locally for his styling and sense of style. In this issue Abdulla reviews some of the emerging designers at London Fashion Week AW 2013.
ANGEL MALLARI Michael Angelo Mallari, or widely known as Angel Mallari, has been a steadfast with the GLAM team shooting an array of lifestyle and fashion-inspired photographs for our pages. Experimenting with lights and perspectives, Angel is always on the lookout for the next Great Picture. The fun loving and creative photographer can be found at www.thescenestealer.com
JULIE DE BRITO The Remede Spa at the St. Regis Doha and GLAM have paired up to offer skincare and well-being tips for our readers in a column answered by Julie De Brito. Be it questions, comments, or just to enquire about new products, drop us a line on our social pages, @GlamQatar on Twitter and www.facebook.com/GlamQatar and we will get the therapists to answer them! If you prefer to be anonymous, just tell us and we will gladly respect your privacy.
DEBI MENDEZ Makeup is her weapon. Art is her passion. Celebrated Qatar-based international celebrity makeup artist Debi Mendez has worked for Hollywood actors such as Mark Strong, Michelle Yeoh and fashion designer Roberto Cavalli. She is also a portrait painter, particularly keen on pop-art. http://www.facebook.com/theartofdebimendez
ALEXANDRA KOHUT- COLE Previously an editor at Harper's BAZAAR Singapore, journalist Kohut-Cole pursued a fashion journalism degree in London before working at Conde Nast where she was instrumental in the publication of Vogue Women. Having lived in London, Switzerland, Singapore and now Qatar, she has written her way around the world on anything from fashion and beauty to travel, lifestyle and food.
LETTERS Enjoyed reading the ‘Privacy gets personalized’ article by Sindhu Nair. The first person narrative almost makes you feel like you are in conversation with the writer. ‘Reignite the Spark’ by Julie De Britto was a rather interesting read too. The essence of spending time with oneself comes across as a reality check in our busy schedules. Good issue this time altogether! Kevin Jacob Finding it really hard to choose between ‘Print is Evocative’ and ‘Art in Fashion, both by Debrina Aliyah. These two are my favourites from this month’s issue! Being an interior designer, I love how print work, graphics and art take the outfit up an extra notch. Megha Akbar Art in Fashion! I love art and fashion as well, so when you get a perfect mixture of both, everything is just spectacular and magical. Just like how everyone should live their everyday lives. Garz Bumanlag
G Talk itting down after the Milan Fashion Week and allowing the scenes of the shows that happened in a breath of the moment, to run in flashback mode, there is no one word to describe the experience. High-pressure, intense, bordering on insanity would be close but then thatâ€™s more than one word. The quirkily dressed onlookers, some bordering on innovative, while most clad in ludicrous overstatements, to the photographers who are kept busy by these madcap performances and the flash of celebrities who frequently make fleeting appearances are but the tiniest part of the whole show. A multi-billion dollar industry that counts it success by instilling in all of us a greed for the latest in season was how I saw the fashion industry and this fact was more embedded now than ever but added to it was a feeling of respect too for those who create this very need. Because just when you are consumed by cynicism for the marketing mechanisms you look into the efforts by the designers and the people behind, firstly in putting together every season, something more brilliant and provocative than the last season or the next brand, and secondly managing the show and the furor after it. It is no simple magic; the shows and the re-see is but the efforts of immense amount of work put in. And believe it or not Italians do have an eye for detailing. To the heritage inspired locations to the planning of the shows, from the hat to the shoes, the Italian do teach the world, a thing or two about precision.
Photo by Abdul Rahman Al Baker
And when the Italians make a brand of their love for detailing, it is ironical that the mass-production doyens, the Asian market is turning out to be the biggest buyers of this workmanship. With no less than 100 journalists from the Asian market and many more buyers from the region, they form an integral market for the luxury segment. The world is full of ironies, indeed. And it is from all these extremes that beautiful creations are made, some that grabs the attention of journalists who might write great reviews; or some that gets buried and unnoticed; and thus loses share of the market. Such is the luxury market, dependent on various dynamics to make a success story, a little luck but mostly pure hard work. Fashion is really no mean feat.
GLAM / NEWS
BRITISH FASHION COUNCIL ANNOUNCES WINNER OF THE BFC/VOGUE DESIGNER FASHION FUND 2014
The British Fashion Council (BFC) has today announced Peter Pilotto as the winner of this yearâ€™s BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund. The Fund was established in 2008 and provides one designer with a bespoke, high level mentoring support programme over a twelve month period, as well as a ÂŁ200,000 grant to provide necessary infrastructure to take them to the next stage in their business. Emilia Wickstead, House of Holland, Mary Katrantzou, Osman, Peter Pilotto and Zoe Jordan were shortlisted for the 2014 prize and were invited to present their collections and five year business plans to the Fund judging committee which is made up of representatives from businesses who support the Fund and industry experts. The British Fashion Council has an international reputation for supporting emerging talent through its existing schemes; NEWGEN supported by TOPSHOP, NEWGEN MEN sponsored by TOPMAN, Fashion Forward supported by the Mayor of London and the BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund supported by Vertu. Since its inception the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund has supported Nicholas Kirkwood (2013), Jonathan Saunders (2012), Christopher Kane (2011) and Erdem (2010).
26 \ NEWS BUZZ
MARC JACOBS FRAGRANCES OPENS A POP-UP SHOP DURING NEW YORK FASHION WEEK WITH AN UNEXPECTED SOCIAL MEDIA TWIST
At the Daisy Marc Jacobs Tweet Shop no dollars changed hands. Transactions were based solely on a customerâ€™s use of Twitter, Instagram and Facebook with the hashtag #MJDaisyChain. The Tweet Shop used a social media-friendly vibe with a comfortable lounge, drinks and wi-fi, naturally. It featured Daisy-themed artwork by Langley Fox Hemingway, Daisy beauty bar, a live Daisy photo booth, DJ set by DJ Jilly Hendrix. Products, fragrance samples and Marc Jacobs fashion items and accessories were also displayed. The most creative Instagram photos throughout the day had a chance to win a Marc Jacobs handbag. The debut of the Tweet Shop was accompanied by a new print campaign for Daisy, which follows the recently released TV spot directed by Academy Awardwinning Sofia Coppola.
GLAM / SHOP
SKIN CARE EXPERTISE Have you ever noticed how something small can have a knock-on effect ultimately leading to profound changes? This, of course, is the domino effect, and it is the foundation for Swiss line`s Cell Shock Age Intelligence Youth-Inducing System, an exciting, new two-part anti-aging cellular product treatment plan. Swiss line, a prestige cellular skincare brand sold globally, has just started being distributed in Qatar. The brand has a counter at Pari Gallery in the Lagoona Mall in Qatar, and there are plans to expand to other locations in the area very soon. The Youth-Inducing System is comprised of a complex series of potent ingredients (“dominoes”) which successively and in synchronicity knock down the signs of aging - loss of firmness, wrinkles, pigmentation and enlarged pores. The brand is celebrating 25 years in the skin care industry. Speaking exclusively to Glam, corporate spokesperson, Cecilia Weidner said, “Being experts in the industry for such a long time, our customers know that this is a brand that delivers on its promises.”
30 \ SHOPTALK SKIN-TILATING More mature skin experiences the decreased production of collagen and elastin, the two elements responsible for firmness in younger skin. As skin ages, it becomes less elastic, resulting in wrinkles and sagging. Your skin also produces less natural oil, so it can’t “plump up” those fine lines the way it used to. While you probably aren’t seeing deep wrinkles and serious sagging in your 40s, you may have crow’s feet, blotchiness and less firm skin than you did 10 years ago. The Immortelle Cream Mask is a dual treatment that is recommended to be used one or twice a week. Its ultra-rich texture boosts nourishing properties and keeps the skin comfortable whatever the weather is, particularly during very cold periods. Its specific formulation combines pure immortelle essential oil, moisturizing agents, vitamin A and vitamin E. After regular use, the skin is smooth, moisturised, intensively nourished and comfortable.
FOREVER YOUNG It’s almost time to put those jumpers away and get your kids ready for the warm Summer months. Babyshop has launched its Spring Collection 2014, for children aged zero through to 16 years, giving moms the perfect excuse to update and add a new flavour to their kids’ wardrobes. The collection is available across all Babyshop stores in Qatar with latest Spring trends from around the world. Sporty, tropical and festive looks dominate the line in appealing colours that include pastels such as lemon, peach melba and vanilla for girls and sporty classics such as astro turf green, solar yellow and cobalt blue for boys. Neon highlights remain a popular choice for details and accent colours. Key items for these looks include the all-in-one jumpsuit and over dyed denim shorts that team up with tropical print tees. The boys range offers the well-established varsity look or sporty items like the zip-through track top teamed with jersey sports shorts.
ROCK THE LOOK A rock and roll story of young love in the city unfolds for Steve Madden in 2014. From strappy sandals to chic wedges, the SS14 collection embodies 60s Brit Rock lifestyle. Spring is all about festivals, picnics, concerts and parties and the SM girl is doing it all in style. Strappy flat sandals like Daisey and Kroatia are stylish day wear while sky high styles like the Magnetik and Areaa are perfect for those late nights on the town. Steve Madden available at Centrepoint, Al Sadd.
34 \ SHOP TALK
ODE TO THE SEA Designers Carol and Humberto have always been impressed by the ocean, its power, its constant change, its ability to cultivate life and one’s reliance upon it. They also received inspiration from the youth marked by the historic underground LA music scene for Kenzo’s Women’s Collection for Spring Summer 2014. Laser cut jackets in cotton or leather feature large open backed vents to allow for a beach breeze. Skirts in luxurious fabrics highlight printed or reversible sequins. Drip embroidered cropped tops resemble the crests of waves. The K-biker jackets come in multi-coloured no waste knit. The melted fish prints, an observation on overfishing in already crowded marine territories, area key print for the designers to bring awareness to conservation problems and to raise the need for intervention on this subject.
36 \ SHOPTALK
PAPER POUCH The casual style of the “Lanvin Paper Bag” is designed in papyrus leather, thin as paper and highlighted with a jewelled chain, available in four sizes. Its arty look is underlined by quilted lamé lambskin in bronze, silver, white, black or midnight blue, offering sumptuous contrasts of shape and texture. The palette of materials is completed by shiny double serpent in navy shades decorated with luxury details.
THE DOHA JEWELLERY AND WATCHES EXHIBITION (DJWE) IS ONE OF THE HIGHLY ANTICIPATED EVENTS IN THE COUNTRYâ€™S CALENDAR. GRACED BY BOTH CONNOISSEURS OF FINE JEWELLERY AS WELL AS THE GENERAL PUBLIC, IT IS WHERE LUXURY IS TRULY CELEBRATED. THE EXHIBITION IN ITS 11TH EDITION THIS YEAR, WAS HELD AT THE QATAR NATIONAL CONVENTION CENTRE FROM FEBRUARY 25 TO MARCH 2.
With its stunning booth that displayed black and white images associated with the brand, Chopard gained considerable interest at the Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition. The elegant watches by the brand are created by of the artisans of Chopard who take turns in delicately fashioning these exceptional pieces. From draftsman to watchmaker, jeweller, gemsetter and polisher, the full range of specialists unite their skills in giving shape to the most daring dreams. Haute Joaillerie watches vividly embody technical virtuosity dedicated to serving contemporary artistry as well as traditional watchmaking techniques. Time is an essential factor in making an Haute Joaillerie watch since each of them demands several hundred hours of work. Depending on its shape, it may house a mechanical or quartz movement. Crafted in 18-carat rose gold, it is meticulously set with a refined combination of navette-, baguetteor brilliant-cut diamonds that exalt the beauty of its lines and proportions.
SHOP TALK / 39
In a fitting tribute to royalty Al Zain, launched its latest edition of the Maharajah collection at the DJWE. The new edition followed the success of the inaugural range of the Maharajah collection that was launched at the exhibition last year. The timeless collection draws inspiration from the luxury and glamour of India’s royal past. The collection is handcrafted from the finest rose-cut diamonds, briolette diamonds, brilliant cut diamonds and natural pearls all set in 18 karat gold. The range reflects its royal roots with names such as Rajmata (Queen Mother), Mysore (a former princely state) and Sena (Army).
Al Jaber watches and jewellery displayed their latest collection at DJWE. Established in Qatar in 1958, the original Al Jaber store was located in Doha’s Umm-Said area in Al Jesra. Its founder, Yousef Jaber Mohamad Al Jaber, had a distinct vision: to provide the finest quality of watches in Qatar. More than 50 years later, time has shaped Al Jaber Watches into what it is today – the leading watch supplier in selection and expertise.
Blue Salon launched Ferre Milano Watches at DWJE
An exhibitor that truly stood out at the Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition was Cartier. Its booth was made to resemble a maison – a French home. What’s more, they placed two snappily dressed French security guards in red blazers at the entrance of the booth. The design of the space is inspired by Maison Cartier legendary address at “13 rue de la Paix”, along with place Vendôme forming the heart of Parisian elegance and luxury. Laurent Gaborit, Regional Managing Director Middle East, India and Africa said, “We are extremely pleased to participate in the exhibition, which is a great platform to demonstrate Maison Cartier exceptional high jewellery creations and latest watchmaking innovations.” Founded in 1847 by Louis Francois Cartier, the family-run Cartier firm has expanded to become a leading international jewellery house. “For DWJE we have more than 150 pieces of high jewellery, which is a substantial number to display. We also have various collections including the popular panther collection. Our selection of watches is also large. These include precious women’s watches with diamonds,” explains Gaborit.
40 1 ●
The rise of the art movement was first seen on the Spring/Summer 2014 presentation of Prada and before we knew what had hit us, it had become the IT thing to have a surrealist portrait printed on your outfit. But of course, the trend extends beyond just portraits and art of any form became the basis of this season’s newest collections. While it is rather chic with an ode towards artistic appreciation, we think that this might be a one-season fad and its novelty quickly gone as everyone starts to jump on the bandwagon. Invest wisely in some key designer pieces, or just dip your foot into shallow waters with some affordable alternatives.
3 ● 5 ●
SAVE 1 Asymmetrical tee, QR105, Bershka, Landmark Mall ● 2 Water colour shift dress, QR275, Zara, Landmark Mall ● 3 Urban art dress, QR195, Zara, Landmark Mall ● 4 Illustrated top, QR175, Zara, Landmark Mall ● 5 Baby doll dress, QR123, H&M, Landmark Mall ●
SPLURGE 1 Abstract Dress, QR5,936, Giles ● 2 Crop Leather Jacket, QR17,705, L.A. Roxx ● 3 Vintage Sweater, QR3,321, Moschino ● 4 Object Sweater, QR1,465, MSGM x Toilet Paper ● 5 Graphic Art Sweatshirt, QR1,779, Christopher Kane ●
All Items Available from www.farfetch.com
AN EDIT OF THINGS THAT ARE HOT NOW
BINT THANI MOHAWK TURBAN
There is some serious reinventing-the-wheel kind of vibe in this special collection because Bint Thani has just showed us that you do not need to show your hair to HAVE a punk hairstyle. And that could very well pave the way for an onslaught of new turban designs reflecting distinctive haircuts. The Mohawk Turban first made its appearance for a special punk-theme event at Dubai Mall’s Sauce Boutique and the label has recently revived it for its latest campaign. Khulood Thani, the creative force behind the label, was inspired by her trip to London in 1986 when the punk movement was at its peak. “I loved the Mohawk hair so I designed a full collection dedicated to it,” she says. Check out Bint Thani for a full range of coveted turbans on www.bintthani.com or at Jo La Mode Boutique, Royal Plaza. Images by Saeed Khalifa.
We have been spotting some really cute tees in Doha courtesy of Fanilla Couture, a t-shirt line by the Saudi designer Razan Suliman. Razan, a selftaught designer based in Doha, immortalises pop and fashion culture in her t-shirt prints and has been wildly popular with the fashion set. The label was founded in 2011 and has since grown to be a go-to for quirky and humorous pieces that reflects life in Qatar. fanillacouture.tumblr.com
42 \ TRENDS
HOUSE OF NOMAD
Virginia Commonwealth University Qatar’s golden fashion boy from the class of 2011 has finally launched his new label, the House of Nomad. The label, a partnership with graphic design wiz Saleh Al Banna, is Dubai-based and features an inaugural collection of strong silhouettes with earthy tones. Skirts, jackets, sweaters and pants are all cut in classic shapes with bold finishing notes. “We are both Arabs, raised in multicultural cities - Doha & Dubai. House of Nomad means a place of movement to us. Taking our Arab culture and giving it Western-inspired cuts was the vision behind the looks and the desert inspired us to stick to one colour-tone. We wanted to convey movement through the choice of words we used in our collection as well as the choice of colour, creating a sense of unity in a world that is constantly on the go,” Ahmed says. www.house-of-nomad.com
STYLE THIS / 43
Cypress Beading Fold Fort Midi Dress, QR10,926, Toujouri, Porto Arabia.
Knuckles Envelope Clutch, QR3,907, Maison du Posh, Fifty One East, Lagoona Mall.
Classic Motorcycle Jacket in Black Leather, QR16,294, Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane, www.ysl.com
30’s Fox Choker, Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane, www.ysl.com
Crystal Embellished Feather Jacket, QR16,361, Givenchy, The Gate.
DECADES There are no rules to dictate that you have to dress a certain way at any given age and these days, it’s all about style and confidence over the overrated concept of youth. But what we do care about are the impressions you make at different stages of your life. We pick one key investment piece and style it up with different seasonal items to create three different images to work the style magic whatever age you are.
Rose Gem Ring, Dior Fine Jewellery, Dior, Villaggio Mall Tailored Short Coat, Valentino, QR8,502, www.farfetch.com
Black Pearl Necklace with Brooch, DSquared, www. dsquared.com Rosette Rose Gold Earrings, Mouawad, Lagoona Mall.
STYLE MOMMA IT IS THAT TIME OF THE YEAR AGAIN TO INDULGE IN ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT FIGURES IN OUR LIVES, OUR MUMS. WHETHER SHE IS A TRENDSETTER OR A CRAFT-LOVER, WE’VE GOT THE HOTTEST FINDS IN TOWN TO SHOW YOUR LOVE. Flamenco 30 Bag, QR7,829, Loewe, Villaggio Mall.
One Shoulder Grecian Dress, QR471, Salsa, Lagoona Mall.
Too Hot To Handle Mini Shopper, QR1,638, Marc By Marc Jacobs, Villaggio Mall.
FASHION / 45
Silver Plated Chain Frame, QR1,800, Katharine Pooley, The Gate.
Drap Knit Cardigan, QR248, Salsa, Lagoona Mall.
Colour Spectrum IT Palette, QR175, Sephora, Landmark Mall.
Golden Pro Brush Set, QR399, Sephora, Villaggio Mall.
Bird Print Jewellery Box, QR150, BHS, Landmark Mall. Ornamental Bell Jar, QR90, BHS, Landmark Mall.
Tie Handbag in Calf Leather, Celine, Villaggio Mall.
SPRING SUMMER 2014
ACE NOW Kenzo
MOSAIC PRINTS Tom Ford
Keep them small, keep them repetitive, but most definitely, keep them going. Prints get the ultimate all-out treatment with entire looks build with one or several patterns in different colours. This is the season to be daring and to get busy with prints, clashing at times and even in a shiny reflective number from Tom Ford. Valentino goes tribal, while Victoria by Victoria Beckham plays with print-on-print jacquard, and Temperley London marries delicate flowers with animal instincts.
Victoria by Victoria Beckham
House of Holland
TRENDS / 47
Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane
House of Holland
SUIT UP The power suit silhouette gets a mĂŠlange of updates from society lady to relaxed studio-type. Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane stays in tune with cigarette pants, Salvatore Ferragamo makes blazers oversized for lounging, Paul Smith brightens with summer shades, Kenzo goes grunge while House of Holland add new elements to the finishing. Give the suit a final unexpected style touch by pairing it with springâ€™s hottest flat sandals.
48 \ FASHION
Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane
VOLUMINOUS FOLDS The one most important detail on any dress you choose to invest in this season is the fold. On the sleeve, on the hem, on the side, or even on the collar, it is the perfect va-va-voom detail that makes a simple dress a talking piece. The pleated folds form 3D shapes for volume to distract and lets you leave home without any other accessories. DSquared goes double for a bow as well as back folds, Erdem expands from the side and Bottega Veneta goes all asymmetrical. DSquared
TRENDS / 49 Tom Ford
PEEKABOO Play a game of peekaboo with layers of barely see-through fabrics as mesh inserts or lace overlays. Burberry leads the way with delicate shirts in pastels, Elie Saab weaves lace with ruffles, and Tom Ford nearly bares all in a daring number. Appropriate the look with a subtle coat or a solid separate to balance the fine line of chic and sexy.
House of Holland
STREET ART BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
THE SOUL OF A CITY IS OFTEN FOUND IN ITS STREET ART – AN HONEST VIEW OF THE LIVES AND TIMES OF THE COMMUNITIES WITHIN. JUST LIKE COLLECTING TRAVEL MOMENTOS, LOUIS VUITTON IS IMMORTALISING THE MEMORIES OF PARIS, CALIFORNIA AND CHILE IN ITS LATEST SPRING SUMMER 2014 SCARVES COLLECTIONS. THE ARTISTIC COLLABORATION, A CONTINUOUS PROJECT FROM SEASONS BEFORE, SEES THE WORKS OF ANDRE SARAIVA, INTI AND KENNY SCHARF COME TO LIFE IN CELEBRATION OF LOUIS VUITTON’S STREET ART SCENE WORLD TOUR.
HERITAGE / 51
three artists hailing from different continents – Andre from Paris, Kenny from America and INTI from Chile – brought interpretations of their own cultures into the new scarf designs. Andre rose to fame with the cartoon Mr A, which he drew on walls all over Paris, and has since been exhibited at major venues worldwide including the Grand Palais in Paris and the Venice Biennale. Kenny is most known for elements of pop and space in his work while Chilean artist INTI is famed for his mural paintings. INTI and Kenny both selected LV’s emblematic giant silk square as their canvas while Andre worked on the monogram shawl as his base. INTI’s design encompasses the image of Wiracocha, the god of Tiwanaku culture, of the most important Inca deities, (INTI’s name himself was derived from the Inca sun god), paying homage to his ancestral Andean culture. Infused with warm shades of gold and orange, the design is bordered in red with a pattern of ancient symbols surrounding the Louis Vuitton signature. Kenny, describing himself as a pop-surrealist artist whose guiding principle is to reach out beyond the elitist boundaries of fine art and to connect to popular culture. He covered Louis Vuitton’s giant silk crepe square with a colorful collage of astronomic motifs and symbols of pop culture on a blurred psychedelic background. Andre brought Mr A from the streets onto the shawl, with a background of paint splatters. The luxury house is also introducing new designs this season including variations of the iconic leopard print created for LV by artist Stephen Sprouse. The Leopard Spray giant silk crepe square combines leopard sports with a spray-paint motif in vibrant fuchsia or pimento while the Leopard Pop stole features arty gradation of shades in coral or pimento. The house signature Monogram Rayures gets an update in faded denim-style stripes while the Papillon silk square woven with a subtle tone-on-tone comes in an array of colours including fuchsia, orange and violet.
Kenny is most known for elements of pop and space in his work while Chilean artist INTI is famed for his mural paintings.
MEET THE ARTISTS
UNITED STATES, New York : André Saraiva, “Le Baron” nightclub co-founder, arrives at Le Baron in New York May 10, 2012. Over the last few years, French night life organizers have infiltrated the highest reaches of New York night life. AFP PHOTO/Emmanuel Dunand
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Why and when did you decide to become an artist? Andre: By the time I was five or six, I knew that I would spend my life making drawings. I never decided. Inti: Like many creative people for whom the street is their canvas, I began very young, without really being aware of what I was doing, with the motivation of seeing my name all over the city. As you grow older, you realise that you’ve become an “urban artist”. Kenny: Well, it really wasn’t a decision but more like an acknowledgment of what I love to do and THAT was in nursery school when I was finger painting fifty years ago. How would you define yourself as an artist? Andre: I would define myself as a multi-plural artist. Inti: I prefer to describe myself as a “crafter of images”. Like any other expert who develops their work with love and for others. I don’t believe in the alchemy of art, but in its transforming power. Kenny: Very versatile. What were the inspirations for this artwork with Louis Vuitton? Andre: I really wanted to treat the scarf as a canvas. To create a painting that you can wear around your neck that keeps you warm. Inti: The design is inspired by the Viracocha avatar (ancient god of the Andean highlands). From this starting point, I developed a stylised design of the sun as the representation of light, colour and the spirituality of the Latin American peoples. Within the design, different symbols represent a metaphor of all the little things that are very special to South America as a whole. Kenny: Cosmic pop fun mandala. Mandalas get you to another level, a door to another world, space! The cosmic journey goes pop! What was the most challenging point? Andre: The most challenging part was to design the scarf as a painting and to make it comfortable to wear.
Inti: The most difficult part was to think of a design for a medium completely different from its initial use, taking into account that it had to work as an item of clothing and at the same time become an independent graphic piece. Kenny: Trying to figure out which design you would choose. What was the most fun? Andre: It is a dream to collaborate with Louis Vuitton and to design a scarf for their collection Inti: For a number of years now, I have been particularly interested in the textile work of Latin American peoples. Creating this scarf was an opportunity to fulfil my dream of developing my own design paying tribute to this fine craft. Kenny: Making it. Do you wear scarves or stoles yourself ? How would you like people to wear this design of yours? Like a precious artwork or in a casual way? Andre: Yes. It should be worn both ways. Sometimes, as a precious artwork and sometimes in a casual and functional way. Inti: I think that wearing a “work” like this is an interesting idea. I love the idea that graphic works have a function that goes far beyond mere decoration. Kenny: Not right now but I think I will very soon! I hope people will wear it while they are dancing in the breeze! What was the image you had of Louis Vuitton and did this project change the way you view the brand? Andre: I’ve always seen Louis Vuitton as a mix of glamour, classic, travel and sophistication but also with a certain level of modernity and transgression. Inti: This project gave me the chance to discover Louis Vuitton. With the Maison, I had the opportunity to create an original work that carries a strong emotional charge brought by the artists. Kenny: That they are very famous and elegant fashion house who loves art. I still think the same now.
“IT IS NOT ABOUT LOOKING YOUNGER” BY DEBRINA ALIYAH PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRISTOPHER KENNEDY
THE GREATEST MODERNISATION OF FASHION LIES IN SOMETHING MORE SUBSTANTIAL THAN JUST THE ARRIVAL OF THE DIGITAL ERA; IT IS ALSO THE PERSPECTIVEEXPANDING CONCEPTS OF BEAUTY AND AGE.
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n our time, we have seen fashion icons transition gracefully throughout the decades, finding their own style voice that makes them distinctive regardless of age. It is a unique sense of self, a true mark of personal style that just gets better with time. Capturing this particular spirit, award-winning producer Sue Bourne embarked on a project to explore the art of ageing in the company of six women with an average age of 80. The documentary, titled Fabulous Fashionistas, premiered on UK’s Channel 4 with much success that it piqued the interest of a global audience. Following the lives of six very extraordinary women, Bourne imparted her signature style of documentary-making in discovering the different personalities without any preconceived tones. The clear vision shared among the six women were clearly one of individuality and inner satisfaction, “It is not about money and it is not about looking younger,” was what Sue had narrated in the show. “Indeed the film really does seem to have changed the way people perceive age. The emails I have had from around the world are fabulous – they found it inspiring and that many would do something about how they lead their lives from now on,” Bourne says on the reception to the show. While older women could identify with the subjects in the production, it was the younger crowd who were drawn to this idea of possibly looking into the crystal ball of their future. “Previously, I think they were scared of old age but the film has shown that that it does not have to be grim and boring. And now they can look forward to getting older,” Bourne says. And with
a growing generation of women who are increasingly in tune with the fashion of the times, it is hard to see that they would be otherwise even as they grow older. “I never usually make my films available for sale to the public but because of the demand for this one, I have started doing it. And copies of the film are winging their way all over the place. Particularly the USA which is interesting since you would have thought they had loads of inspirational role models of their own. But on the contrary they love these women so that is good news,” explains Bourne. The Fabulous Fashionista DVD is now available for purchase on www.wellparkproductions.com . Prices vary for different regions. The All Territories copy is available from QR119.
THEY HAVE HAD LONG, STYLISH AND ILLUSTRIOUS LIVES SO IT IS ONLY APT THAT WE WOULD LOOK TO THEM FOR SOME ADVICE ON FASHION AND LIFE. GLAM MEETS THE SIX MAGNIFICENT WOMEN WHO ARE THE STARS OF FABULOUS FASHIONISTA.
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DAME GILLIAN LYNNE DEAR 25-YEAR-OLD ME, You should decide what your core passion is, whether it is music, dance, acting, painting, cooking, or life, but try to decide which is the really important one for you and then make sure it is totally enmeshed in your character and never let go of it, whatever else you are doing. Put everything else around it, but make sure your real, true purpose stays intact. MOST TREASURED STYLE ITEM I have a beautiful blue, patterned, crazy dress that my husband bought for me in New York. You can make it really stylish, or totally zany, whatever is your mood of the moment, and you can make your accessories match you mood and therefore change the dress to what you want it to be for that particular occasion. It is always useful to have one beautiful garment that can become many things. ULTIMATE SECRET TO A LONG HAPPY STYLISH LIFE Stay in love with life yourself. Hopefully to find someone who you love and loves you with equal passion and be it your love or a friend, find things that you love doing together, looking at, taking risks over or anything that you feel you can do well enough to be able to generate happiness for others. That way you will receive warmth and be fulfilled and happy.
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JEAN WOODS DEAR 25-YEAR-OLD ME, Treasure every day they donâ€™t come around again. MOST TREASURED STYLE ITEM My oversize Harris Tweed vintage men sport jacket. I love it to bits. ULTIMATE SECRET TO A LONG HAPPY STYLISH LIFE Finding your potential then using it, laugh a lot and if you are lucky, love a lot, keep an eye on your waistline and be groovy!
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DEAR 25-YEAR-OLD ME, Keep interested in the world, always question, take risks and continue learning. MOST TREASURED STYLE ITEM Flowered Doc Martins bought many years ago in a charity shop for £4 (QR24) and a Yohji Yamamoto woollen coat given to me 20 odd years ago. I can’t decide which one is my favourite! ULTIMATE SECRET TO A LONG HAPPY STYLISH LIFE Believing the personal is political. While so many in the world are without shelter and in poverty; I need to live on a subsistent economical level like not owning property nor accumulating wealth. And that my actions have an effect and this includes ‘fun’ with the exception of food. I shop only in charity or junk shops or skip raiding.
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DEAR 25-YEAR-OLD ME, I wish I had talked more and questioned my parents and older relatives and friends about their lives and been more receptive to them and the people I met then , some of whom became famous, which I did not think anything of at that time. MOST TREASURED STYLE ITEM I still wear my long purple cardigan which I bought in a sale in the ‘70’s - a daring colour then! ULTIMATE SECRET TO A LONG HAPPY STYLISH LIFE Always be curious, positive and open to new ideas and adventures in everything.
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BARONESS TRUMPINGTON DEAR 25-YEAR-OLD ME, Have very good friends and take every opportunity to travel. MOST TREASURED STYLE ITEM A string of pearls ULTIMATE SECRET TO A LONG HAPPY STYLISH LIFE Conform to standard catalogue sizing.
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KREITZMAN DEAR 25-YEAR-OLD ME, Growing old is a privilege and an adventure. Don’t fear it: revel in the process of getting older (and better!). Each age contains its own beauty and wisdom. Take care of yourself in your youth so that you will have a splendid old age. MOST TREASURED STYLE ITEM My entire wardrobe is a veritable art collection - I treasure every item! ULTIMATE SECRET TO A LONG HAPPY STYLISH LIFE Always concentrate on the positive, follow your passions, and connect with other people in a meaningful way. Don’t follow fashion slavishly - develop your own style.
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AN ODE TO MINIMALIST DESIGNS BY DEBRINA ALIYAH PHOTOS BY ANGEL MALLARI
THERE IS AN ALMOST WALL-SIZE PAINTING IN THE MAIN DINING SPACE OF THE EL-TANANI APARTMENT IN DOHA, WHICH AT FIRST GLANCE, LOOKS JUST LIKE ABSTRACT SPLASHES OF RED AND WHITE BUT ACTUALLY DEPICTS A HUMAN HEAD IN DEEP THOUGHT.
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Alia wears coat from Prada, shoes from Manolo Blahnik, and vintage Hermes bag. Tamara wears dress from Azzedine Alaia, leather jacket from Prada and shoes from Gianvito Rossi.
deep shades of red in that art piece are consistently present throughout the whole apartment. Warm mahogany and auburn furnishing have a way of making you feel thoroughly relaxed and welcomed, though this is probably by intentional design of the madame of the house, Alia El-Tanani. After all, when you are one of the most sought-after interior designers in the region, what a better canvas than your own home? Though, the down-to-earth mother-of-two would be quick to tell you that it is only a small space – intended originally just for short trips to Qatar while they work on a bigger villa as their next family home here. Alia, together with her husband, are the creative forces behind the powerhouse décor company Living In Interiors which has an outpost in The Pearl-Qatar. Her gorgeous 23-year-old daughter Tamara has recently joined the family’s business, living out a vision Alia had carved out when she first founded the business. The mother-daughter combo is a picturesque dream team – Tamara has her mother’s slender features and feisty spirit, while Alia is an authoritative, calm figure who keeps everything together. Their conversations are punctuated with jibes at each other which end in laughter but in the boardroom, it is all serious business. In their wardrobes, on the other hand, it is all fair game. “During our last trip to Paris, Tamara wiped me clean of my cashmere pieces!” Alia quips. “And she has already started on my crocodileskin bags. Every time I get a new one, she starts going after the older ones.” Tamara readily admits that she treats her mother’s closet as one giant free shopping spree but it is an ode to Alia’s sense of style. “I look up to my mum’s style. We tend to dress the same and share similar taste but of course there are certain distinctions too – I like to mix colours but she likes to colour-coordinate,” Tamara explains. Tamara is a self-confessed shoe lover who has been collecting since she was a teenager and thanks to her petite size that has not changed much, she has kept most of her fashion buys. The shoes are an obsession because they are a focal point in building her wardrobes, a concept that rings familiar in Alia’s interior design philosophy – curating a space around one centerpiece. “I have about sixty pairs of shoes with me now, not counting the ones in our homes elsewhere. I dress up according to my mood, a basic staple outfit and jazz it up with a cool bag or a pair of cool shoes,” Tamara says. Block-colour cigarette pants, denims, slim shirts and a few sturdy statement jackets are anchor pieces in her wardrobe that has names like Alexander Wang and Rick Owens. She identifies with the smart
“Beauty is simplicity, accepting who you are, what you feel like wearing. Anything that is clean and simple, a quality of minimalism attracts me.” - Tamara El-Tanani.
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Alia wears jacket from Phillip Lim, leather pants from Ralph Lauren, shirt from Arthur & Fox, shoes from Stubbs & Wooten and vintage necklace. Tamara wears pants from J.Crew, leather jacket from Rick Owens, and shoes from Tods.
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Alia wears pants from Trussardi, top from Malo and shoes from Dior. Tamara wears pants from Joseph, jeans and shirt from J.Crew.
MOTHER'S DAY SPECIAL / 67 “Beauty is confidence and inner spirit – as time goes by, you won’t look the same as you would when you were twenty – but a beautiful person is because of her confidence. She oozes with inner style and energy and that’s beautiful. It doesn’t matter what she’s wearing, it’s not an issue at all.” - Alia El-Tanani.
yet laid back essence of Italian dressing, “I could just strut out in jeans and tees one day and a floor-length dress the next!” Growing up in an Egypt - post Gamal Abdel Nasser - Alia understood the value of well-made clothes that would last for a long time. “I grew up wearing good quality clothes, not necessarily fashionable or trendy and I was always referring to my mother’s or aunty’s archive of vintage clothes,” she reminisces. These values have shaped her style quotient all these years, reflected in the stream of labels that she loves for their pure simplicity and tailoring panache. “I feel most comfortable in Prada, Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren, Phillip Lim and Stella McCartney – there is a certain ease to wearing these designers,” she says. “As I grew older, I have learned what I really like. Sometimes, I am tempted to try something different and I show up looking different for a day but then I always revert to my own thing.” This is an aesthetic that extends into her work – the pursuit of quality and lifestyle in homes and not just passing trends. “Both Tamara and I are your non-conventional fashionistas. We are big fashion buffs but understatement is our tag line! I don’t believe that wearing a full look from a brand makes a person stylish, it’s all about defining it yourself.”
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STYLE LINEAGE BY DEBRINA ALIYAH PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANGEL MALLARI MAKE UP BY DEBI MENDEZ
WHEN WANDA AL-DAGHISTANI STEPPED OUT IN A TURBAN FOR A DAY-TRIP TO DISNEY WORLD IN FLORIDA, HER THEN SIX-YEAR-OLD DAUGHTER RAYA AL-KHALIFA WAS QUIETLY WISHING THAT SHE WOULD WEAR A VISOR INSTEAD, JUST LIKE THE REST OF THE OTHER MOTHERS.
ut it didn’t take Raya long to realise that her mother has a special touch when it comes to style. “Looking back, I now understand what she wore was so effortless and not at all contrived. Just a simple turban was so uplifting to one’s manner,” Raya recounts. It was a stylishly blessed childhood, especially when you have a mother who crafted a Pocahontas costume out of a Versace for Genny and Callaghan dress. “I attached feathers on it with a glue gun,” Wanda laughs. Wanda and Raya are a statuesque mother-daughter duo who are well-loved
for their charismatic presence and are no strangers to the stylish set of Qatar. Their love for fashion as enthusiastic observers and keen supporters of regional designers is hard to match, as their extensive knowledge on the design world goes beyond just carting looks straight from runways. “I don’t think it has anything to do with how much money you spend on clothes,” Raya says. “I am now less concerned about how things look on me, but more on how I feel in them, especially after having children.” Raya’s signature abaya look is a simple flowing piece anchored by statement jewellery, a directional style inspired by her mother. “When we first arrived in Qatar, my mum started wearing the abaya with a
Raya wears blue cape from Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane, belt by Marni and necklace by Panetta. Wanda wears stacked Deco bracelets from Ciner.
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Books from their collection, Vogue: The Covers by Dodie Kazanjian and Millerâ€™s Costume Jewellery by Judith Miller.
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Raya wears abaya from Darz Design and tassel box clutch from Tory Burch. Wanda carries embellished bag from Valentino.
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huge necklace and I just thought it was so relevant to our culture with its history of gold and pearl jewellery,” Raya says. The love of vintage costume jewellery began with Wanda who had been collecting pieces for a long time, having inherited some from her late mother. Traversing vintage markets became a favourite past time for Wanda but was not something that Raya particularly enjoyed until she had her second child. “I needed to jazz up my style after having my second son, and I turned to vintage jewellery. I was so lucky though because my mother has a wealth of knowledge that I could learn from,” Raya says. Knowledge aside, Wanda also had a huge archive of costume pieces that Raya could dip her hands into. “Everything! She takes everything from jewellery to gowns,” Wanda says. “Sometimes I bring out things that I want to wear and she will declare that she wants it instead! Usually those items will disappear from my wardrobe and end up in Qatar.” ut with such a stylish mother, it is easy to see how Raya just cannot resist the occasional dip. Both women share similar builds, and Wanda has maintained a slender profile since her younger days so fitting into her vintage pieces is never an issue. “I remember how obsessed I was with the Japanese designer Hachi when I was younger and I introduced him to all my friends. He began giving me sample sizes of his designs and I would just starve myself to get into them. Those were fun times,” Wanda recounts. And if there was only one
thing that Wanda has ever borrowed from Raya’s closet were pieces from American label Vince. The relaxed silhouettes and casual blouses of the LA based brand has since become an obsession for the duo, especially Wanda who would buy their favourites in all colours. “My mother has a really unique way of dressing. She is great at putting looks together that are sophisticated and polished but with an unexpected flair – like a statement necklace or cocktail rings – and I think this came from my grandmother,” Raya shares. Wanda’s mother was an extremely formal woman with meticulous manners who took pride in the way she presented herself. She had a repertoire of silk blouses a la Yves Saint Laurent with tailored separates and the look was always finished with a cocktail ring and a brooch. “I think that might be the reason why we love the Vince shirts so much. We could pair it with J.Crew denims or a Valentino skirt, it is almost like an ode to my grandmother’s dressing,” Raya says. While their day-to-day outfits ring of effortless and classic aesthetics, they do watch the catwalks for seasonal collectibles as investment pieces. This spring, Raya has got her hands on several looks from Spanish designer Delpozo, while Wanda is keeping a lookout for the tribal-inspired motifs at Valentino. “I have also recently discovered some emerging Russian designers with some very interesting work!” Wanda says. And watching her daughter grow into a style maven in her own right, Wanda notes, “She is very creative. She takes a simple thing and creates looks with different pieces regardless whether it’s designer or not and it always looks so well put together. I am always proud of her.”
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LOCAL MAGIC BY ABIGAIL MATHIAS
WHEN IT COMES TO FASHION DESIGN, EVERYONE MAY BELIEVE THEY HAVE WHAT IT TAKES. TRUE COMPETENCE CAN OF COURSE ONLY BE DETERMINED IN THE LONG RUN. FOR DESIGNER LULWA BINT FAISAL AL-HAIDOS, THAT HURDLE WAS EASILY OVERCOME.
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a child she always displayed a fascination for creative design. Armed with a passion to learn, she pursued her goals slowly and steadily and is now the founder of Pearl Designs, a fashion label that is creating ripples in the region. The brand was one of three Qatari designers who were selected to showcase at the British Fashion Council International Fashion Showcase 2014 as part of the recent spring summer London Fashion Week presentations. The initiative, a collaborative effort between BFC and Roudha Center is a continuing effort from Fashion Exchange. Pearl Designs was sponsored by Jo La Mode boutique. In an exclusive interview with Glam, the Qatari designer explains how her label grew and her plans for its future.
Develop your skills, socialise with others in the same field. Don’t be afraid to be creative, unique and competitive
When did you decide to get in to fashion and what is the inspiration behind your fashion label? Since I was a child, I have always had a passion for fashion. My mother recounts how I always refused to buy readymade clothes and I wanted to match clothes since I was four years old. During my later years, I developed a passion for designing my own outfits and gradually created a few for family members. I often designed clothes for friends on many occasions as well. All this helped build my self confidence which pushed me towards attempting creative and unique designs. Can you share what is behind the name of the brand Pearl Designs? The brand name is inspired by the culture of this
region. Pearls were considered one of the most precious ornaments in the Middle East and Qatar in particular. From time immemorial pearls have been used for fashion in both clothing and jewellery. My name, Lulwa is also translated to mean, pearl in Arabic. How challenging was it to set up your own line? What were some of the obstacles you overcame? Coming from a scientific and specifically engineering background, it was quite a challenge to garner adequate knowledge and create an exposure to available design methods. Of course it was not easy but I didn’t give up. In fact I still spend time in searching, reading and watching videos related to cutting, stitching and other aspects of fashion. I believe that there is a constant process of evolving as a designer and a professional and that never ceases. As someone who other Qatari fashion designers look up to, what advice would you offer upcoming fashion designers? I would encourage young designers to read about fashion and trends. Develop your skills, socialise with others in the same field. Don’t be afraid to be creative, unique and competitive. Do you have a favourite designer? I don’t have one name per se. Any creative designer who creates unique pieces and has a concept and a story to denote for each piece, inspires me. In a highly competitive industry, have you developed a presence on social media? It is extremely important to be active on social media. We are very active on Instagram. We have also started to tweet on Twitter. It is always nice to receive feedback from our customers. What is in the pipeline for your label? We just finished an exciting shoot and are glad to share the images with Glam’s readers. We are planning an exciting fashion show for Pearl Designs in the coming months. My designs will now be available at Jo La Mode Boutique in Royal Plaza. The future looks promising.
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ARTISTIC HOMECOMING ONE OF THE MOST DILIGENT AND HARDEST-WORKING FASHION DESIGNERS IN TOWN, SELINA FAROOQUI HAS JUST RELEASED HER NEW SPRING SUMMER 2014 COLLECTION IN AN INTIMATE PRESENTATION AT THE W DOHA. DESPITE HER FULL-TIME COMMITMENT IN THE DESIGN ATELIER OF QELA, SHE HAS CHARGED FORWARD IN A CAREER PATH THAT IS SIMILAR TO MANY UPCOMING DESIGNERS IN BIG CITIES, HERALDING THEIR OWN LABEL WHILE DESIGNING FOR A STORIED BRAND. HER NOWESTABLISHED DESIGN AESTHETICS HAVE BECOME A FAMILIAR SIGHT TO FASHION FOLLOWERS IN THIS REGION, AND THIS LATEST COLLECTION IS A CULMINATION OF HER BREAKTHROUGH AS A BONA-FIDE DESIGNER. SELINA GIVES US THE FIRST LOOK INTO THE NEW COLLECTION.
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THE STORY BEHIND THE COLLECTION “This Spring/Summer 2014 collection is a celebration of my brand. The inspiration comes from Indian jewellery. I have used some signature cuts and volumes, and the main statement in this collection is the embroidery. It’s rich, intricate, multidimensional, with mixed materials and techniques, you really have to observe, admire and touch the embroidery in person to feel how special it is. This is why I decided to have a showcase event for the launch of this collection. The overall look is feminine, timeless, decadent, detailed with a touch of ethnic inspiration, and I like to think that each dress, jacket and blouse is a jewel in and of itself, that will stay in your wardrobe forever.”
CRAFTSMANSHIP “This collection marks a major milestone in my career. After three years of making small-scale collections, I have finally reached the point as a designer where I was able to find a small production unit in India to work with me. Now I have the capability to create any embroidery, print, fabric I can dream of, and I feel as if I have no limitations. It’s an exciting time in my career, and to be producing my designs from my own home country is an even greater feeling. I want to keep the tradition of hand embroidery alive through my work, it is an art and I showcased it in my SS14 Collection. There are months of embroidery time that have been put into creating these dresses and jackets, and it is all the careful and intricate work of my craftsmen and production team in India, who understand my vision and believe in it.”
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MULTI-TASKING “It’s definitely a challenge working on several projects at the same time, and many times I wish could just dedicate all my time to my brand and business. I multi-task and write lots of lists to keep everything organised. However, I started my career as a designer when I was a student, and I have worked for everything I have to this day, so I will continue to have a job and support my business at the same time.”
INTERNATIONAL STAGE “I have shown my collections so far in Doha, Dubai and Istanbul. The SS14 Collection will be available in Saudi Arabia and Qatar this year. I am planning to cover the Middle East first, before branching out into European and Western markets. My aesthetic has always been inspired by the East, but I am slowly evolving and making the collections more and more versatile. I’m taking it one day at a time, I can’t predict where I’ll be in five years, but I aim to be on an international level by then. Looking back now, just a few years back, I would have never predicted that I would be where I am today, so I am hopeful, excited and motivated to continue my journey as a designer and to see my dreams through.” The full 40 piece collection of embroidered dresses and gowns, statement jackets, blouses is now available for orders for Summer 2014 and Ramadan.
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HORIZONS BY ALEXANDRA KOHUT-COLE IMAGES COURTESY FIDE FASHION WEEKS
RENOWNED FOR CONSTRUCTING FLAMBOYANT AND INNOVATIVE DESIGNS, THE VIVACIOUS DRAMA EVOKED BY HIS CREATIONS HAS EARNED FREDERICK LEE RECOGNITION AS ONE OF SINGAPORE’S MOST SOUGHT AFTER AND AVANT-GARDE FASHION DESIGNERS.
ndividuality and diversity is the name of Frederick Lee’s game and he is feted for his creation of opulent wedding and evening gowns. A winner of the Singapore Fashion Awards’ Designer of the Year crown in 2004 and two years later of the same accolade at the Cleo Fashion Awards, by 2009 he had been nominated by Fashion Asia China for the Asian Top Fashion Designer gong. Lee’s work designing costumes for the theatre has been recognised – twice - by the Straits Times Life! Theatre Awards,
earning him the best costume designer award for productions such as “The Importance of Being Earnest” for the theatre group W!ld Rice. Following this, he became director of costumes for the National Day Parade in 2008 for two consecutive years, and subsequently costume designer for the Youth Olympic Games in 2010. The self-taught designer maintains that the road to becoming a fashion designer is one paved with a willingness to work hard and handle rejection. “Rejections are unavoidable in this industry. It’s
FASHION / 83 perseverance, despite the rejection, that is more crucial. Though the fashion world can be exciting and alluring to some, it might be a different story behind the scenes”. He likes the realistic depiction of the type of criticism that you can expect on television shows such as Project Runway. “The main problems most designers have are missing that connection to their potential customer base - missing exposure”. He warns that this can lead to a downward spiral, “If you don’t have enough customers, you won’t be able to sell and produce enough pieces. Industry manufacturers will then be less interested in working with you and might end up working with far more expensive tailoring. High production costs lead to horrible selling prices and low customer conversion - as a result you receive more rejections from boutiques to stock your products.” As part of the couture week in October 2013 in Singapore, organized by Fide Fashion Weeks and held at the Marina Bay Sands hotel, Lee was the only Singaporean designer showing. This was a week that had a dedicated Japanese couture and French couture evening and showcased top Asian designers from all over Asia including Lie Sang Bong from Korea, China’s Guo Pei and Sebastian Gunawan from Indonesia. eath & Destruction was what Lee, a self-confessed fan of the author Stephen King, dubbed his show, a decadent all black 30-piece collection - and it took him six months to create, “I looked into the dark side of my nature, where the passion and energy lies” explains Lee before clarifying that it is not about what is depicted in the clothes but rather, “it is all about the tone that is set by the interesting collage of elements that inspires and haunts at once”. Working on the collection affected him to the extent that he describes being “like a lost soul searching in the depths of darkness…I only saw the darkness of black – where I found true beauty”. For lovers of the dark side of literature and authors such as Robert Bloch (Psycho), Edgar Allen Poe (the Raven), Bram Stoker (Dracula), Afred Hitchcock (The Birds) and the whole Gothic or Psychological thriller genres - the collection was a dream, “Psycho, The Raven, The Book of Revelation, they are all a very dark a part of us.” A haunting soundtrack of blood-curdling screams, creaking doors slamming shut with a sinister bang and the recorded voice of the child, “I see dead people” from the film The Sixth Sense was a more than fitting backdrop for the show. “It’s the mindflow of things… the bells haunting… I wanted to send a chill – it’s also very inspired by music and this is how it all blends”. It all created drama as a black leather dominatrix catsuit suit emerged styled with a silver zip up shrug made out of thousands of hand-stitched dressmaking pins. Crimped, huge hair streamed out of skull caps signifying, “Its back to basics - that’s why the hair is so frizzy”. Lee’s inspiration for the collection derives from the depiction of rage, suffering, gloom, depravity and the
supernatural, “It is often seen as unsettling and offensive but often these disturbing images elaborate the wildest dreams and subconscious desires of humans in richer form” says Lee, maintaining that this is not necessarily conflicting with the belief in a heavenly world. He explains, “This collection remains feminine and desirable and has a grotesque elegance with a twist. It invites viewers to redefine the horizons for beauty and morality and savour the exquisite genre with a dramatic and dark compilation of designs that touches the taboo areas of death and destruction.” Lee sources his fabrics – exclusive silks and laces - from selected specialist suppliers from the UK and Japan and the detailed embroidery, appliques and luxurious beading work from India, China and Thailand. However, it’s feathers that he prefers to work with the most, “I love to work with feathers, they add that ephemeral touch and they allow me to create an object of natural poetry. They are aerodynamic marvels of perfection... they come in literally every colour imaginable, every shape and size”. All the feathers that Lee uses are derived from the plumes of farm-raised birds and for this collection he incorporated goose feathers hand-painted in gold to impart an unusual texture, pheasant, jungle cock, saddle and a “pinch of marabou”. The final look was a sheer apparition of black and gold feathers with huge horns sprouting from crazed platinum hair set off by the show’s ubiquitous Goth makeup. Lee maintains that he is deeply honoured to have been invited to show as part of the couture week, “I am humbled for being recognized for my couture work with its treasures of workmanship, artistic conceptions and grace, allowing me to bring to the public the vision of an art that must not be forgotten - while constantly evolving as a witness of its period in time.” By always reminding himself about the ultimate goal that keeps him coming to work every day - and never losing sight of it - Lee handles the stress of the fashion world, “But to keep up in a fast-paced fashion industry, I have to stay on my toes and not allow any insecurity to get in my way. Work has to be my first priority and it does require sacrifice, making sure to balance it by really taking advantage of the free time to do things to revitalise myself.” A passionate believer in the notion that the innovations of couture will continue to set the modern standards of clothing design, what does the future hold for Lee? “I will continue to do what I love most, what I do best - to present an exciting new perspective on the world of couture”. This incurable romantic feels that it is his duty to give women a dream, “I have dedicated my whole working life to the creations that will enhance their beauty and bring moments of joy to their lives.” And the person he looks up to the most, Frederick Lee’s idol, is his mother “the kindest, most intelligent, compassionate and loving person in the world… she has been and still is my role model; she is 84 and still inspires me - and for that alone I am grateful.”
The new Rado HyperChrome models aim to combine technology, style and luxury. Featuring a small second display with bold and interesting dials, the watch is available with leather, bracelet and full plasma. Prices start from QR16,480.
WHERE THE BIG BOYS COME OUT TO PLAY Wear It Now: Marc Jacobs’ current season has got all the right hits for the West Bay banker types while Rag & Bone tones it down for the weekend jaunt (below right). Load up the extra layers now before Winter leaves us.
Leonardo DiCaprio wore Prada to the premiere of The Wolf of Wall Street in New York. The ensemble was a navy kid mohair suit paired with a white stretch pope line shirt and satin tie.
The very dashing Chris Pine attended the London premiere of his latest movie Jack Ryan in a brown two-piece suit from Ralph Lauren. The actor said of his outfit, “I love British style; the tweed is definitely my ode to the British banker of the 30’s.”
First Look: Yohji Yamamoto AW2014 collection has got us swooning for the mysterious and brooding street wear persona. Graphic black and white lines make an appearance on sneakers too.
For Spring Summer 2014, Lanvin released new versions of the Lanvin Homme Crosstrainers in an array of colours and materials. With couture finishing, the grain and smooth calf leathers are set to be the hottest trainers in any gym.
REGATTA STRIPES AMI designer Mr Alexandre Mattiussi has taken this pattern from English Henley blazers, and transferred it to trousers. In doing so, he’s made it far easier to pull off, whether as part of a casual ensemble, as here, or a more formal one that includes a simple navy blazer.
HOMMES SS14 BY TONY BATEMAN
THE AUTHORITY ON MENSWEAR, MR. PORTER SHOWS US THE LIGHT ON THE DEFINING TRENDS YOU NEED TO ACE THIS SPRING.
NEUTRALS Fashion may be increasingly democratic, but there’s something about cream clothes that lets them retain an unshakeable aura of exclusivity. Perhaps it’s because they demonstrate that a man has the good taste to choose cream over white as a colour, or perhaps it’s just down to the implication that he has the money and time to be untroubled by the colour’s glamorous impracticality.
SLIP-ON SNEAKERS Last season we were charmed by the idea of chunky hi-tech sneakers, but for Summer, more laid-back styles look and feel right. Lanvin has lent this simple, relaxed sneaker an air of sophistication through its use of high-quality materials and its choice of inky blue suede.
BLACK AND WHITE From white tie to black tie, Reservoir Dogs to Men In Black – the power of black and white never diminishes. This season, however, we like to see it deployed less formally. Follow the lead of designer Neil Barrett, who created this asymmetrically patterned T-shirt.
TAILORED DENIM If double denim puts you in mind of Mr Justin Timberlake’s astounding outfit at the 2001 American Music Awards, let us re-calibrate your expectations. Kilgour, the revered Savile Row tailor, has created a sharp denim suit that will pass muster in the most formal environments, and yet look just as good with a T-shirt and sneakers.
SANDALS What’s even more comfortable than a pair of slip-on sneakers? A pair of sensible sandals with an ergonomic foot-bed. Luckily this hippy classic takes on an entirely new image this Spring, as part of Givenchy’s confrontational “Nerd Africa” collection. It’s a misleading name because these sandals are the only obviously nerdish element in this startling collection.
FLORAL PRINTS This spring, the Japanese label Kolor has refined the floral print with this discreet blue/grey suit of matching shirt and trousers. The design is both bigger and more discreet than many prints, and the blue/grey colours mean that it bears a more than passing resemblance to urban camouflage. The military association gives the suit an entirely new feeling.
TAILORED SHORTS The only sign of a change to the prevailing narrow silhouette comes in the form of the trend for loosely cut tailored shorts, which both look better and feel more comfortable than tighter versions. They also remind us that loose-fitting tailoring need not be shapeless – quite the reverse, in fact.
FIRST LOOKS AT
AW2014 BY ABDULLA AL ABDULLA
NICHOLAS K Nicholas K stuck to the usual colour palettes that he is known for- mixing neutrals. As each look moved across the runway the clothes oozed attitude. The collection ranged in textures and textiles consisting of a variation of oddly cut crop-tops paired with fur embellished jackets and knits.
LACOSTE This collection was inspired by the ancestral golf course built by the father of Simone Thion de la Chaume who was the wife of Rene Lacoste. To build the collection, the brandâ€™s creative director used a series of images that consisted of lawns, trees, interiors and exteriors of the clubhouse, which he then translated into textile colours and prints. The collection consisted of beautiful silhouettes that portrayed sporty elegance and functionality.
KENNETH COLE Kenneth Cole chose a more urban approach using a mix of textures, layers, and tailoring to create his looks. As the models came down the runways, each look had an essence of its own. Long skirts with long slits, biker jackets, and masculine shouldered silhouettes graced the runway. All the pieces were exquisite - especially the jackets. A lot of detailing went into the creation of every piece using mixed materials and that is what creates a show stopping look. The hat and cut-off glove trend made an appearance in the show as every look was styled using it. The collection was very empowering and presented a new and hip style of luxury apparel.
RUNWAY REPORT / 87
VIVIENNE TAM For this season, the Chinese born designer looked into her roots for inspiration. The colours of the season were ranged from browns, deep reds, greens, and dark blues. East met West as somewhat oriental patterns were incorporated in the looks. Pops of colour were woven into the patterns as well as the embroidery, fur scarves, belts, and shoes. This collection portrayed a vision for a very sophisticated and chic woman.
NOON BY NOOR The Bahrani fashion house never ceases to amaze. Founded by the power cousins, Noor and Haya Al Khalifa, the brand is known for their modern cut silhouettes and beautiful and girly colour palettes. This season was all about saturated colours, colour blocking and bold textiles. The duo focused on detail, embellishments, and textures inspired by minerals and crystals with the colour palette consisting of mostly icy blues, purples, mint greens, and pops of yellow.
88 \ RUNWAY REPORT
PAUL SMITH Paul Smith showed us a new way to view classics this season. Easy looks in silks walked down the runway while still being tailored in a very classic way. Mixed prints, stripes, and colour blocks defined this collection. As the show went on the pieces started getting more and more structured. Infusing femininity into tailored outerwear - whether it was tailored pajama pants, or a long fur coat. The closing looks were among the most feminine of the entire collection, they consisted of satin and lace skirts. The entire collection portrayed a new type of woman that is classic, easygoing and chic!
NAEEM KHAN The show opened with a bang! A back lit stage shined as a two piece look walked down the runway. This first look consisted of a beautiful silk dress with a knee length short sleeve jacket, both with beautiful, almost orientalesque - embroidery. This first look set the tone for the whole show and collection which was inspired by the theme of a â€˜decadent boudoirâ€™. The collection ranged from florals, metallics, animal prints, to colour blocks. Every piece in the collection was strong and told a story of its own. All the pieces were exquisite, however my favourite looks would have to be the flapper inspired beaded dress and the leopard printed gown with a feathered lower half. They were both beautifully detailed and had stunning movement to them that made them more than just show stopping pieces!
MARIOS SCHWAB The show itself was simple and innovative. A candle-lit runway led the way and set the mood for the entire show. The looks were very dark and edgy with most being styled with chokers. All the looks maintained a somewhat conservative style with some sexy peek-a-boos here and there. The colour pallet ranged from light lavenders, blacks, creams and purples. My favourite look from this season was the black dress, beautiful beige fur coat styled with a choker.
RUNWAY REPORT / 89
ERDEM Erdem stunned the crowd as he sent the models down the runway in flats! Known for his romantic and ladylike looks, the Canadian born designer changed it up using black as his main pallet. Metallics, velvets, lace and furs walked down the runway. Among my favourite pieces were the white fur coats embellished with snowflake seeming crystals. Flats aside, each look exuded a sexy yet prim feel. This collection was probably one of Erdemâ€™s best yet.
ISSA ISSA took bold to a whole new level this season! A bright and and colorful approach to winter wear with beautiful mod flower patterns. All the silhouettes were in beautiful modern cuts. The show ranged from tight long jersey dresses all the way to oversized coats. The colour blocking took over the show as pinks, reds, and zigzag patterns took over the runway. The collection was very innovative and proved that dull colours are not the only thing in this A/W14-15 season, but to trade in the gloom with the brights!
MATTHEW WILLIAMSON Extravagance and exaggerated glamour is what Mathew Williamson gave us this season. Pink and blue furs, crystal embroidered looks, and electric colours worked their way down the runway. The show opened up with a powder blue coat styled with a red scarf and electric yellow disco boots. The collection was very playful, and electric, taking you from street to Studio 54! All the looks were both show-stopping and intricate. The upbeat looks are ideal for a bold fall.
90 \ RUNWAY REPORT
BURBERRY Led by Cara Delevigne, the show consisted of demure looks, floaty florals, and both dull and bright colours. While maintaining their classically cut jackets and coats, they were made modern using the different patterns, textures, and colours. The dreamy watercolours set a different tone for this season that created an easygoing and effortless Fall look.
TOM FORD Tom Ford brought us beautifully cut pieces in rich materials such as a complete look in red crocodile skin, silks all the way to bouncy intricately cut fur coats. The most iconic piece from this season was a jersey style sequin dress that came in a bright orange as well as a black with a big â€œTOM FORD 61â€? printed on the front. The collection, from black hooded looks to glamorous purple fur coats, were paired with beautiful shin-high boots that somewhat resembled cowboy boots.
RUNWAY REPORT / 91
QATAR WINS SPECIAL MENTION AT LFW
or the first time ever, designers from Qatar were represented at London Fashion Week as part of British Fashion Council’s International Fashion Showcase (IFC) initiative. Roudha Center, as part of a continuing effort to help promote women’s entrepreneurship in fashion, led the team of three Qatari brands, Fantastique QA, Pearl Designs and Debaj Collection, to the showcase at The Savoy, London. The Qatar showcase also won a special mention as part of the IFC award presented by Sarah Mower MBE, the BFC’s Ambassador for Emerging Talent. “We’re so thrilled to welcome the young designers of so many countries to London. The buzz created by such an extraordinary cross-cultural exchange is creating a dynamic which is snowballing year by year. The IFS is a seismograph for registering where the next - very unexpected - waves of fashion culture are rising. It’s a way of learning about each other as well as celebrating individual voices who deserve the opportunity to be heard,” said Mower. The International Fashion Showcase is a space for young talent from around the world to have a way in to LFW, and to share ideas and to tell a wider story about their own culture. Twenty-seven countries and 146 designers participated this year. The IFC offers the public together with the international press and buyers the chance to explore work by some of the most innovative young fashion designers from around the world. To find out more about Fantastique QA, read our feature interview with the designer behind the brand, Fatthiya Al Jaber in our January 2014 issue available online, while this month, we put the spotlight on Pearl Designs in our feature pages.
DIARY Backstage at Band of Outsiders by Shiseido
SNAPSHOTS OF AW FASHION WEEKS
Dean Caten, Natalie Massenet, Lucy Yeomans and Dan Caten at the PORTER party at Milan Fashion Week
Temperley AW14 (Daniel Sims, British Fashion Council)
American designer Donna Karan
TheCornerdotCom and Vogue Italia partnership in search of the next big fashion star has brought them to Wadha, Qatarâ€™s own new talent. She exhibitied as part of Milan Fashion week and select pieces are available for order on the site.
RUNWAY REPORT / 93
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi presented a Star Trek theme collection (Sam Wilson, British Fashion Council)
Karlie Kloss walks the runway for Donna Karanâ€™s 30th anniversary fashion show
Our fashion week writer Abdulla was spotted by fashion photographer Billy Rood at NYFW
Anna Wintour and Bradley Cooper at the Burberry Prorsum show
Diane Von Furstenberg
Diane Von Furstenberg walks the runway to close her show
Qatari designer Wadha Al Hajri at The White Space during NYFW Roksanda Ilincic AW14, backstage (Sam Wilson, British Fashion Council)
Beauty look at Narciso Rodriguez by Shiseido
Marc by Marc Jacobs Backstage by Shiseido
94 \ FASHION
THE FOCUS IS ON
MILAN BY SINDHU NAIR
OUR EDITOR PREVIEWS WHAT THE ITALIANS HAVE IN STORE FOR US IN THE NEXT FASHION SEASON.
taly’s fashion capital did not disappoint; it had all the ingredients to make its Fashion Week as interesting as the other three fashion bashes. From drones hovering above the runway that delivered light gusts of wind down on to the audience during the Fendi show, Moschino’s McDonald moment to Miuccia Prada creating a fashion incarnation of Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s Lola; Milan Fashion Week had it all. While a small portion of journalists and fashion followers lamented at the turn of fashion at the Moschino’s show the other half opinioned that it was indeed time for some fun at the hands of fashion. The show was also not without criticism and this time from someone within its folds, Giorgio Armani, known as Milanese’s favourite guy, who showcased his collection
on the last day of Milan Fashion Week hit out verbally at a few in a press conference held after the event. Armani went on to blame Milan Fashion Week’s organisers, the National Chamber for Italian Fashion, of which he is a board member, for making the final day on the schedule an “empty” one. The criticism comes just months after Armani pledged to help relaunch the waning international fashion showcase, which has only Armani, Gucci, Prada and Dolce & Gabbana as its big draws. He even went on to make a veiled stab at fellow Italian brands that ignore “clothes with a function and with an attention to the commercial aspect” in favour of being “completely free to express their fantasy”, calling the approach “really dangerous”. Now can fashion week get more interesting than that?
FASHION / 95
FASHION’S IT MOMENT We all knew it when we saw the show at the celebrated Padiglione d’Arte Contemporanea (PAC). But when we read Suzy Menkes evaluation of the show in the New York Times the next day, comparing the designs to that of Celine’s, the fate was sealed; Tod’s women’s wear had arrived. A collection that celebrated woman for what she is, lithe and uninhibited, the textures of the collection gently caressed the silhouettes while giving freedom and comfort the highest regard. The second collection by designer Alessandra Facchinetti is conceived for women who are hyper-feminine, a collection that is “more graphic when exploring the satirical style with a sophisticated unisex flavour”. Leather seems to come alive, under Alessandra’s direction, and the material quite sensuously and boldly remains the focus of the collection which is not a surprise given the brands expertise in it. This is one collection that our Qatari fashionistas are going to crave for.
WHEN BLING IS IN Sparkles and studs seem to be the mainstay in Versace’s Autumn Winter collection this year. Skin is in too and so are satin and asymmetric dresses. Like Donatella Versace puts it, “This is a collection about the power of a woman, not just her inner strength, but the attitude she presents to the world. Every woman can find that power in Versace.”
96 \ FASHION
ELEGANCE COMES TO TOWN Massimiliano Giornetti loves to keep things simple. Simplicity was the main feature of his show too, in an eerie white canvas, which the designer envisioned as a laboratory setting, the models walked past like in a dream sequence. The clothes are part of the dream, elegant, rich and in understated brilliance. The surprises are endless: ribbons composing a skirt unfold to illuminate a precious surface; a Persian coat is an eclectic luxury of marmot or beaver fur; a vest worn under a blouson and long skirt create unexpected movement while unfinished details suggest perfect imperfections. Studded with fashion icons and celebrities the show was far from simple and was one of the most important events that night at Milan. A LESSON IN THE HISTORY OF SHOEMAKING A special three day exhibition took place during the MFW by the brand steeped in the history of shoe making at the Brera Academy of Fine Arts, stretched throughout the academy’s set designing classrooms. The exhibition showcased photographs and iconic pieces from the Ferragamo archives, many of which were hand-picked by the Editor-inChief of Vogue Italia, Franca Sozzani, in homage to Vogue Italia’s fiftieth anniversary this year. ‘Gondola’, a hemp and cork wedge, ‘Splendida’, a cellophane sandal and ‘Mirrors’, a pump with a silvered glass heel are some of the original Salvatore Ferragamo shoes that were showcased at the exhibition alongside the long-acknowledged artworks in the Brera halls. Salvatore Ferragamo who was once a gifted student at Brera Academy of Fine Arts, created shoes of cutting-edge design that have become an important part of Italian fashion history.
FASHION / 97
CODE OF LUXURY On trend with next winter’s cosy mood, the collection was about comfort yet luxurious enough to please the high-end luxury buyer. Those pastels may have looked and felt soft cut from unlined leather and from exotic materials that become like second skin on touch. The boots are snakeskin and will be on every must-buy list of the Middle Eastern luxury buyer. The take-out trend for those unable to work a full leather outfit into their daily business is those colour combinations. Camel, tobacco and cognac go beautifully with pale greens, blues and even pink. Stretch wool, angora and mohair and of course leather is the code of Gucci luxury this season.
I AM DOUBLE Santoni’s Fall Winter 2014 Women’s Collection is the story of masculine and feminine duplicity. Inspired by Virginia Woolf ’s novel Orlando, the Santoni collection portrays the mutant essence of the protagonist, as the symbol of the inner freedom of the women of the 21st century, transforming Orlando into a modern myth, a metaphor of the desire of love and illusion that makes our everyday lives brilliant. Shoes that betray comfort with stubbornness and strength not as a fashion weapon but as an accessory to highlight you is what Santoni gave to its followers in its collection.
GLAM / BEAUTY
These brand new pearls of powder or Meteorites from Guerlain include a subtle blend of matte, rosy and radiant blue-toned white pearls, combined with corrective coloured pearls - yellow to counter redness and dullness, pink for freshness and mauve to attract the light - they light up the face in an illuminating and corrective halo to give endless radiance.
The eyes are given sensual warmth with a deep and vibrant smoky violet, this season’s star colour. For an intense and sophisticated result, the liner flaunts a new black... a faux black created by Bourjois, delicately tinged with brown or violet.
If you are looking to make a statement, experience the power of crimson with Tom Ford nail lacquer named ‘trophy wife’. While we don’t think much of the name, the colour is rather lovely.
The Winter 2014 collection of Rouge Edition by Bourjois boasts a new shade seen gracing the catwalk! 36 Pourpre jazzy: rich wine shade for a radiant smile.
Fall in love again with Chopard Happy Spirit perfume collection which was first introduced in 2007 with Happy Spirit.
Dab on the latest range of refreshing perfumes from Jo Maloneâ€™s London Rain Collection, which perfectly recreate the fresh showers in the busy city.
The newly launched fragrance Memo, is an award winning fragrance built to capture the Italian landscape. Try the Italian or Irish leather perfumes which are suitable for both men and women.
08 The Blush Rose Aux Joues from Guerlain is the perfect accompaniment to any make up regime. We like the brush size.
Time in a bottle is a new age defying serum from Philosophy. The vitamin C activator seems like a great way to keep your skin looking young.
Announcing her association with MAC, the Viva Glam Rihanna frosty red lipstick will be available from midMarch. Proceeds from sales go toward helping men, women and children living with and affected by HIV/Aids.
GLAM / BEAUTY
SAY IT WITH CHOCOLATE OR STRAWBERRY
TOP TRESSES Hair care professionals TRESemmé, partnered with Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York to celebrate another season of the latest styles on and off the runway. As part of its role as the longest-running official hair care sponsor of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, the brand partnered with contemporary women’s fashion designer Vivienne Tam. Led by the brand’s global stylist Matthew Curtis, the TRESemmé international team of stylists created the latest hair trends to accompany Tam’s newest collection, which debuted on February 9, at New York City’s Lincoln Center. “The looks TRESemmé is known for perfectly complement my signature East-meets-West style, embodying the exclusive fashion trend I want to achieve, yet still remaining achievable to women everywhere,” Tam said. China-born Tam is known for her blended style, creating her much-loved collections by harnessing the positive energy and creativity that comes from mixing people and cultures.
It’s that time of year once again; when everyone has the perfect opportunity to let the special people in their lives know how deeply they care about them. The Body Shop offers an array of beautiful pre-made gifts from the best selling products; or the flexibility of getting the products packaged in-store by the experts, choosing from The Body Shop luxurious wrapping paper, tissue paper, gift bags and boxes. The sweet and fruity Strawberry range is totally irresistible. It smells like juicy, just-picked strawberries and is the perfect gift. The collection has body butter, shower gel, body lotion, home fragrance oil, body mist, eau de toilette, lip gloss, beautifying oil and soap, everything one would need to complete a beauty routine. The decadent Chocolate range is pure indulgence. The secret lies in lashings of shea and cocoa butter and 11 other feel good Community Fair Trade ingredients. Providing 24 hour hydration is the Chocomania body butter and also available in the range are shower cream, eau de toilette, body mist, body scrub, beautifying oil, soap and lip butter.
OUT OF THIS WORLD Beauty brand ncLA just launched their latest lacquer collection, Holos Space Academy, which features four custom holographic polishes containing shimmery, metallic colours that brighten up any look. All of the colours feature high quality, micro-glitter formulas producing a shimmering rainbow effect with aluminium flakes that reflect light and throw a spectrum of colour form every angle. The Nail wraps are 75 Qatari Riyals and nail polishes are 70 Qatari Riyals. ncLA was introduced in 2013 to the Middle East region. The collection is available on shopncla.com.
EYE ART As fashionable as an â€˜it bagâ€™, Sephora introduces two trendy eye palettes with the most wearable colours that make it easy to make any fashion statement in colour come to life. With a must-have material on the outside, this palette grabs attention just like your eyes will. Colour Spectrum has 12 iconic colourful eye shadows that are hand selected by pro beauty artists as the most wearable colours for any eye and skin colour. Each colour combination comes as a duo with a lid and crease colour to brighten and define the eye making it finally easy to wear color. Each look is complete with everything you need at your fingertips.
ANYTHING BUT ORDINARY BY ABIGAIL MATHIAS
IF YOU ARE EVER LOOKING FOR A WAY TO FEEL ON TOP OF THE WORLD, THIS IS PERHAPS THE ROUTE.
EXPERIENCE / 103
team at Jean Louis David salon ensured I was as close to cloud nine by allowing me to try out some of their signature treatments. This was no ordinary make over. It was complete transformation. The salon rests comfortably on the seventh floor of the Renaissance Hotel in Doha’s West Bay. Despite the fact that it was a busy Sunday morning, there was a sense of tranquility at the salon as I watched the chaotic traffic rush past from a gigantic glass window. First up was a relaxing hair treatment. The senior hair stylist, Samia El Ghossein, examines my hair. I learned that she has extensive experience working in the region and has worked with models for some of Glam’s shoots including one on the very same day. It feels reassuring to be in professional hands. Samia prescribes a hair revival treatment from Keratese for my dry locks. It includes the use of a protein product that is meant to magically transform hair and inject it with life. While I start to imagine if I am going to have Jim Carrey’s look in Ace Ventura, the stylist calms my nerves by insisting that the treatment is worth it. After my hair is washed and massaged with hair lotion, I wait for the hair mask to work its magic. The ever-polite staff then tell me that I am going to be given a pedicure and manicure which I have to admit, could not have been in a better location. Getting your hands and feet prettied while you watch Friends is certainly my idea of a relaxed time. So while Phoebe is getting married in the final season of the show, my nails are being buffed and made sparkly. Another client comes in for the same treatment and we both laugh at the sitcom sharing a mutual sense of comaraderie. The staff are busy. They are a part of the Nails boutique team and the pedicurist makes it a point to use a paraffin wax for my feet. This helps to remove any dead skin. The warm wax also makes an otherwise chilly Doha morning more bearable. She even uses an aromatic foot scrub and I am half way to heaven. When it comes to choosing a colour I go with purple. Eden comes in to apply makeup. Though I mention that I prefer less to barely visible, she goes all out and adds much more than I am used to. The session begins with her using a light toner and moisturiser. I decide that there is no point in fighting the fact that I will look unrecognizable even to myself. “Most people do not realise the benefits of cleaning the skin before applying
The staff at Jean Louis David huddle close for a picture with Glam’s own Abigail Mathias.
makeup,” she explains. After a few minutes of carefully applying the toner she adds a liquid foundation. She takes extra care to make sure that my tired eyes are visibly perkier. Eden prefers to use a mellow green for my eyes, saying she finds that they will stand out better. Not too sure what to expect, I decide that I will leave it to fate. She uses a number of different sized brushes for my eyes and then applies some mascara. “I don’t need to elongate your eye lashes, as you have lovely long eye lashes,” she smiles, a compliment that makes me blush without the blusher. Eden is not satisfied, though, she dabs a little blush-on for extra effect. A hint of liner and eye pencil are also added for the dramatic effect. On the whole the experience is rather enjoyable. Eden steps back, mixes a few colours for a muted cherry coloured lipstick and dabs it on with a lip brush. I am then escorted from the makeup room back to the main salon. There it is time for a blow dry. Samia does not feel content with just a straight look. She uses a curling iron and adds soft curls and I somehow feel tempted to break in to song! It is easy to feel like a celebrity when all the staff huddles around you asking for a photograph. They ask me what my plans for the day will be. Not having a clue what the rest of the day will be like, I leave knowing that I’ve started the week on a totally high note.
104 \ BEAUTY
THE BOTOX ALTERNATIVE BY JULIE DE BRITTO
REMEDE SPA INTRODUCES THE ALL NEW RODIAL TREATMENTS AND PRODUCTS
odial, that is what people are going to be talking about this month in Doha. Here at Remede Spa, we just cannot wait to introduce the new brand that is famed for its astonishing result-oriented treatments and products. Rodial is the skincare of choice for a long list of celebrities including Angelina Jolie, Beyonce, Jennifer Lopez, Victoria Beckam, and Gwyneth Paltrow, so it is time to get on with
their beauty secrets! Rodial is a British brand which takes the best in both scientific and natural skincare. Their products deliver targeted treatments to specific skin concerns combining the best of anti-aging and firming ingredients. The base for all Rodial products is pomegranate, which is well known for its lifting, toning and firming properties. The team at the spa are buzzing with the products as we have seen and witnessed the results that can be achieved with the new treatments. March is going to be a special month as we are introducing three new facials to the menu. The treatments will be done according to your skin concerns, such as expression lines that are becoming too apparent, skin pigmentation due to sun damage or aging, or sagging skin on your face and neck. The massage techniques used are some of the most effective ones Iâ€™ve tried so far in terms of immediate results in firming and plumping the skin, and believe me it is my job to try them all! The needs of your skin changes over time. In your twenties, your skin has probably not become sun damaged yet. It may
be plump and supple with just few signs of aging. As your skin matures, it is likely to lose elasticity and become prone to lines and wrinkles. Areas of sun damage and hyper-pigmentation may form. No matter the age or condition of your skin, Rodial offers a solution. The Ageless Elegance Facial will use the Glamoxy Snake range to focus on your expression lines and wrinkles. Your skin will be plumped to leave you flawless, fresh and visibly toned. If you are afraid of needles or too young for Botox, here is your perfect alternative! The Serene Radiance Facial is an intense active facial that works to the deeper layers of skin to reduce hyper-pigmentation using innovative glycolic formulas and enzymes. A powerful trio of specific treatments containing brightening actives to encourage skin renewal and a brighter, more radiant complexion. Want to get rid of your pigmentation spots on the face, this is the one you need! While the Glamtox Lift Facial is the ultimate age defying treatment that targets multiple concerns caused by aging. A corrective treatment for fine lines and wrinkles giving instant targeted results and revealing a more youthful complexion. Your skin will feel dramatically toned and tightened. The new offerings will also encompass body treatments including the Body Overhaul and the Leg Refiner. The Body Overhaul encourages the bodyâ€™s natural waste system to remove excess fluid to leave it looking svelte and toned. The perfect kick-start to any weight loss regime! The Leg Refiners targets specifically the glute, thigh and waist area to instantly firm, tone and reduce cellulite. The new Rodial range is exclusive to Remede Spa at the St Regis Hotel in Qatar.
MODEL OF THE MONTH Shot By: Rob Altamirano Makeup and Hair By: Blanca Montenegro Model from: Trinity Talent Qatar
JANELA JOY CUATON During normal weekdays, Janela Joy Cuaton is one of many students here at the Philippine School of Doha. But what sets this soft-spoken student apart from her classmates is that she is a professional model with Trinity Talent Qatar, all at the young age of 16.
EARLY HEAD START
My first ever modelling experience was with Doha Trendsetter Model Search. I was 15 years old then. I had so much fun working with them, and at the same time they taught me a lot. I was very nervous and I remember shaking a lot while posing! But then I saw my pictures on display and I couldn’t believe it. I felt so blessed.
My mum is a nurse working in Hamad hospital and my dad is in the Philippines working as a bank executive. My family is very supportive of me, especially my mum. I used to call her a “Wonder Mum”. She drives me to my assignments and encourages me throughout. I always thank her with all my heart for all the sacrifices she has made in order to give me and my siblings the very best in life.
I usually wear comfy pants, tops and sneakers. On special events I love to wear flowy, casual-looking dresses with matching accessories and heels. I love collecting shoes, especially high heels.
My favourite models are Candice Swanepoel and Erin O’Connor. My favorite Filipino Designers in Doha are Celso Collado Dahil and Ehrin Balti. I also love the designs of Coco Chanel and I want to work for the brand in the future. Someday, I would like to become a model trainer, so I can help girls to fulfill their dreams. I want to go to Europe or New York to enhance my knowledge and skills in modeling.
My advice for future models is to do research and practise constantly to excel in this field. They should realise their potential and use it to the fullest. A model should not only look good from the outside; character and the way we treat other people is more important, so we must be humble. Contact: email@example.com and www.trinityqatar.com
106 \ AROUND TOWN
NEW BRUNCH ANNOUNCED
Chi’Zen at the contemporary Oryx Rotana Doha launched its new Brunch Menu at an exclusive media event. The revitalised Saturday brunch concept which is served at the table offers a contemporary twist on Chinese cuisine comes with a selection of beverages and unlimited servings of appetizers and main course at just QR 299 per person. Sanjeev Thakur, Country Operations Manager, Foodmark, Qatar said: “Brunch is a relaxing way to spend time with friends and family and we are excited to introduce our new brunch menu every Saturday.”
MI CASA IS SU CASA
In a ceremony marked by the presence of Qatari Businesswomen Association QBWA members Casa Batalha, a new costume jewellery concept was revealed for the first time in Qatar and the region at The Mall on D-ring road. The boutique was opened by the Guest of Honour Buthaina Al Ansari, QBWA board member. Casa Batalha, founded in 1635, is one of the oldest brands in Portugal. The brand was acquired by the Lanidor Group in 2009, bringing a unique coalition of tradition and modernity, not only in every piece of jewellery or accessory, but in all aspects of their boutiques.
JADE GYM OPENS ITS DOORS IN QATAR
Luxury, exclusivity and highly personalised wellness solutions are now on offer at Jade, the new ladies only health and fitness club to open its doors in Doha. Singer Nancy Ajram was invited to launch the opening of the venue in Qatar. Apart from the club’s luxurious facilities, it is the innovative personalised service that truly sets Jade apart from other health and fitness clubs. Specialised body, face and hair treatments, adding a sense of style and fun to the health club experience.
AROUND TOWN / 107
SPA AT THE GATE MALL HIGH TEA, LITERALLY
The Torch Doha recently opened a high-end Tea Lounge, located on the 21st floor overlooking the city and Aspire Park. Guests are invited to sample a tea selection, homemade snacks, salads and crepes while enjoying amazing views of Doha. During March guests can enjoy afternoon tea and tea mocktails in the Tea Garden daily from 4 pm-12 midnight. Hotel Manager, Sherif Sabry said: “It is great to witness the opening of an exclusive tea lounge here at The Torch Doha where guests can relax and unwind with great food options and splendid views from a height of 100m. We have kept the menu healthy, simple, light and bite-sized, so that everyone can share and enjoy. The tea mocktails are a great healthy and refreshing alternative.”
Diva Lounge Spa recently opened a new branch at the Gate Mall. The spa set up its first branch in 2006. The focus of the spa is on wellness based on relaxing treatments that balance the body, relax the mind and revive the soul. Group Spa Manager of Diva Lounge Spa, Sophia Tamong commented: “Women nowadays struggle to maintain a balance between their personal and professional lives. They are in great need to allocate some “Me Time” to relax and take care of themselves. To help women in Qatar overcome life’s daily stress and rejuvenate, Diva Lounge Spa offers a range of services that balance the body, mind and soul.”
Designer Razan Alazzouni makes her second appearance in Qatar after a successful showing last year. This time around, The Closet hosted her Spring Summer 2014 trunk show, featuring a myriad of colours and new textures to her work. Razan’s clothing is all about exuding the femininity, delicacy and grace of the female form. The use of soft luxurious textures is dominant and allows for movement in the clothes, which adds a whimsical quality to the collection. The combination of chiffon and silk lends to the idea of women as soft, ethereal beings, which only enhances their femininity.
Isabella Ferrera A Qatar-based Brand Available at Jo La Mode boutique, Royal Plaza.
Isabella Ferrera A Qatar-based Brand Available at Jo La Mode boutique, Royal Plaza.
Isabella Ferrera A Qatar-based Brand Available at Jo La Mode boutique, Royal Plaza.