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Contents

32 HEAD TURNER

Spring Summer’s edit of fun and chic hair accessories.

38 GET THAT LOOK

The abaya is the best canvas to show off your personality. We pick some of the hottest accessories of the season to get the best Spring Summer look.

40 TREND SPOTTING

GLAM qatar's no.1 fashion magazine w w w.g l a m qata r .c o m

APRIL 2013

Little pleasures in life to add to your wardrobe for some inbetween season love.

42 DESIGNS IN COLLABORATION

Six teams of local designers pair up to create a hybridmaking collection for the 2013 Tasmeem Design Conference.

45 REINVENTING TRADITION

In this special, we speak to two major abaya boutiques and established abaya designers on reinventing the wheel on an age old tradition.


Contents 72 ARCHITECT OF FASHION

The iconic fashion legend who invented the biased cut, Madeleine Vionnet shunned the limelight but made fashion history.

74 ANNE HATHAWAY

She stunned the world with her singing performance in Les Miserables, and she is now living the dream she dreamed.

77 FASHION FORWARD DUBAI

AD

An ambitious initiative to bring together Middle East’s fashion talents, Fashion Forward Dubai kicks off its first season this month.

82 PARIS FASHION WEEK

Lynette Cowie brings us some special style moments from the recent Paris Fashion Week and a glimpse at Sandra Mansour’s AW2013 presentation.

90 MAD HATTER

The Qatar Equestrian Racing Club got a walk on the bright side with a fantastic hat showing at the last races.

98 JAULA SPA

Jaula Spa is a favourite among locals for its top-notch treatments. Abigail Mathias shares her experience.

GLAM

qatar's no.1 fashion magazine APRIL 2013

On the cover aNNE Hathaway IMAGE: AFP


Online

Edition w w w.g l a m qata r.c o m

Editor Sindhu

Nair

Debrina Aliyah

Chief Fashion Correspondent

Senior CorrespondentS Abigail

mathias

Ezdhar Ibrahim Ali Rory Coen Correspondent sabrina christensen

Photographer

rob altamirano

Senior Art Director

venkat reddy

Deputy Art Director

Hanan Abu Siam

Assistant Art Director Ayush

Special look at Conscious Exclusive at H&M, a glamourous Hollywood collection that is based on sustainability. Materials used in the collection include organic cotton, recycled polyester, and recycled polyamide. The Conscious Exclusive collection will be available in around 140 stores worldwide from April 4th. Also, a sneak peek into the special exhibition by Louis Vuitton in collaboration with Marie Beltrami.

Indrajith

Senior Graphic Designer MAHESHWAR

REDDY B

EVENTS OF THE MONTH Senior Manager – Marketing Zulfikar

Jiffry

Senior Accountant Pratap

Chandran

1 VCUQ Graduation Show ● 16 Apr - 18 Apr, 2013, 7:30pm - 8:30pm The most-awaited fashion show in Qatar’s fashion calendar as we get to peek into the next generation of new designers to hit the market. This year, the show will take place at Salam Studio & Stores at The Gate in West Bay. This is the first time the graduation show will be held out of campus grounds to allow better exposure of the graduating students’ works. Ticket is required via registration on www.qatar.vcu.edu

Sr. Distribution Executive Bikram

Shrestha

2 Audemars Piguet Opening ●

Assistant Managers - Marketing Chaturka

thomas jose

Senior Media ConsultantS Hasan

Karandana

Rekkab

lydia youssef

Marketing Research & Support Executive Kanwal

Distribution Support Arjun

Baluch

Timilsina

Bhimal Rai Basantha.P Publisher and Editor–in–chief

Yousuf Jassem Al Darwish

Chief Executive Sandeep

April 7th, 12 noon Audemars Piguet will be opening its own standalone boutique in Villaggio this month. The luxury watch brand is represented by Ali bin Ali and the opening will see the attendance of Francois Henry Bennahmias, the group CEO of Audemars Piguet.

Sehgal

Executive Vice President

Alpana Roy

Vice President

Ravi Raman

COMING UP

GLAM is published by Oryx Advertising Co. WLL. The contents of this publication are subject to copyright and cannot be reproduced without the express permission of the publisher and/or license holder. All rights rest with Datalog media solutions. The publisher does not accept responsibility for any advertising contents carried in this publication. Contact info@omsqatar.com, glam@omsqatar.com www.issuu.com/oryxmags www.facebook.com/glamqatar Call us: +974 44550983, 44672139, 44671178, 44667584 Fax: +974 44550982

We get up close and personal with renowned bridal designer Clara Rosa on her new store in Doha and why she thinks every man should have a thobe in their wardrobe.


Contributors Debi Mendez Makeup is her weapon. Art is her passion. Celebrated Qatar-based international celebrity makeup artist Debi Mendez has worked for Hollywood actors such as Mark Strong, Michelle Yeoh and fashion designer Roberto Cavalli. She is also a portrait painter, particularly keen on pop-art. http://www.facebook.com/theartofdebimendez

blanca montenegro Blanca is a no stranger to the hair and makeup scene of Doha, having worked extensively with JCCTV, Al Jazeera News, top filmmakers, photographers, talent agencies, fashion magazines and local celebrities. With close to 30 years of international experience, she also specialises in Brazilian Keratin, spray tan, 3DM eyelash extension and eyebrows services. This issue, she recreates the Asian heritage looks for Clash of Cultures. Find her at montenegroblanka0@gmail.com

Lynette Cowie Your Voice on Twitter & Facebook

Aptly known as The Style Revivalist, Lynette Cowie assists the ladies of Doha in finding and developing their confidence through her innovative personal, wardrobe and shopping styling methods. For individual styling consultations visit www.lynettecowie.com

Ana Avegail Amistoso I want to be part of glam! your magazine inspires me. I love to try the new trends you feature! I love fashion more becoz of your mag! Keep up the good work! Responding to our focus @GLAMQATAR lots of asian personalities out there and great job on writing about them. fashion is all inclusive!

Jody Ryan Jody Ryan (RYT) completed her Yoga Teacher Training in June 2011 and is currently teaching at Yama Yoga Studios (www.yamayogastudios.com). Being fairly new to yoga but older in life, she hopes to inspire those around her to dive deep into yoga and themselves no matter where they’re at along their journey.

March fashion shoot Molly Thomas: looks amazing!

letters Hi Glam,

Susanna Wolfe Susanna has over ten years experience of marketing, PR and journalism in London which includes two of the top retail department stores in the U.K., both Harvey Nichols and Harrods. Since July 2008, Susanna has had a child and moved to the Middle East. She is now diversifying her career and enjoying the most out of the Doha sun.

Karli Moreto A nineteen-year-old lad who likes rock ‘n’ roll and depicting stories through photographs. Currently, a business management student at Stenden University Qatar. Vintage and surreal are his personal touch and often inspired by his thoughts that he couldn’t express through words.

It was super cool to see Bollywood heartthrob Hrithik Roshan on your March cover. Way to go! Maya Atwin

GLAM team,

Super liked your issue on Asian designers. Hope we can look forward to more on upcoming regional trends soon. Beth Rolland

Marhaba,

I regularly follow your magazine and find it is always filled with lots to read. Great job! Rabia Khan


G Talk This month Glam focuses on a piece of clothing which has a historical past, a religious connotation and in recent times is a fashion statement of the rich and famous. The origins of the abaya are vague. Some think that it existed as long as 4,000 years ago in the ancient civilisations of Mesopotamia and when Islam arose in the seventh century BC, the religion absorbed local veiling practices into its culture, probably due to the dressing traditions of the women of Arab Jahiliya. More recently, abayas are seen more as a fashion statement. Being in the region, try hard but you cannot ignore this style feature that has seen the rise of an entire gamut of businesses, from an assortment of abayas to accessories that spruce up this “seemingly unexciting” black robe. You will be surprised how the challenges of colour and structure can be transcended to create luxurious pieces of art. Glam has tried to demystify the abaya by bringing to you the voices of local designers who have tried to bring in their touch to this fashion piece. We are intrigued by their talent and wish them luck as they make a mark in the regional fashion scene.

Editor’s Pick Glam is always excited when tradition paves way for global innovations. HER HIGHNESS Sheikha Moza bint Nasser rewrote the regional and global fashion pages keeping within the traditional guidelines, making her own signature style that is now being touted as ground-breaking. A blogger had once mentioned that “it’s really difficult in the Arab region, to find a celebrity who has a consistent and exquisite fashion style, but Sheikha Moza has broken that infamous trend.” Her designer turbans, enigmatic shades, statement jewellery, fitted jackets and well-structured ensembles seem to have made her a fashion torch bearer. Glam salutes this leader, who is seen here in a beautiful black and red perfectly structured dress while she was in the Gaza strip, for being the role model for the women in the region through her innovations in education and also for giving women the much-needed confidence to venture out of their homes to make a mark in their field of choice. Talking about traditions paves way for this international designer who has included elements of a traditional head gear to spruce up his collection. Marc by Marc Jacobs head scarfs and scarfs seem to be the perfect accessory to team with a designer abaya or even for a ready-to-wear.


GLAM / NEWS

APRIL 2013 MMM collaboration to watch out for Images leaked last month of a mysterious new collaboration between luxury brand Maison Martin Margiela, and Casio G-SHOCK; now an official video has emerged showing off the project. A new video released via the Maison Martin Margiela YouTube channel shows off the hotly expected new collaboration between the Paris-based fashion label and the cult Japanese watch brand, which has been buzzing on the blogosphere ever since images emerged at the end of last week. The video displays a suggested launch date of “March 30, 2013”, before a brief shot emerges of a silver-coloured Casio G-SHOCK watch. The watch is apparently due to appear in a limited edition of 3,000, available at selected boutiques.

Superga snaps up Rita Ora for latest campaign It was only a matter of time until the British Superstar Rita Ora started getting snapped up as the face of fashion brands. Not only does she rock her own cool style but she’s also BFFs with model of the moment, Cara Delevingne. You can’t constantly hang out with the UK’s answer to the next Kate Moss without getting noticed within the fashion scene. Rita’s latest role is fronting Superga’s UK Spring/ Summer 2013 advertising campaign, which is set to officially launch soon. Superga has also just announced that Rita picked out all of the shoe styles herself for both the campaign’s photo shoot and video, which are currently available. Rita made some really cool choices that would genuinely fit in well with her own style where she usually combines hot bodycons, bold prints and trademark trainers.

Courtesy Afprelaxnews.com

Guess what? The fashion and lifestyle brand Guess is launching a second capsule collection with world-famous Dutch DJ Tiësto. Set to hit stores in May, the 35-piece collection contains menswear and womenswear items, including denim jeans, graphic t-shirts and tanks. There are also accessories including sunglasses, a men’s watch and men’s and women’s footwear. A musician, DJ and producer, Tijs Michiel Verwest, aka Tiësto, is one of electronic music’s largest stars. The 44-year-old became the first ever DJ to play at the opening ceremony of the Olympic games, when he mixed at the 2004 event in Athens. “I’m excited because I learned so much from the first collection and put all that experience into the second collection to create amazing new pieces,” said Tiesto. “It’s especially exciting to grow the second collection by adding more pieces and accessories”.


Alice Dellal: The Face of Chanel’s Boy Bag It would be safe to say that twenty-four-year-old Brit-by-way-of-Brazil Alice Dellal isn’t the typical Chanel lady. She has a nose ring and upwards of fifteen tattoos. Half of her head is shaved. She prefers leather jackets to tweed ones and silver spikes to pearls. Meet Chanel’s latest addition to its stable of iconic bags. “What I love about the Boy,” Dellal says, “is that it’s rough around the edges. It isn’t a perfect little lady bag.” Reprising her role as the face of Chanel’s Boy Bag for Spring 2013, Alice can be seen posing with a white horse and model Jake White in the background. Dellal plays the part of modern equestrienne perfectly, her trademark shaved hair and punk-rock vibe contrasting with her preppy cardigan-and-tie-blouse ensemble nicely. Photographed by Karl Lagerfeld at La Ferme de la Chapelle in Fontaine-Chaalis, the images also call to mind the famous photos of Coco Chanel riding horses with Boy Capel.

Victoria goes e-com

Wang and favouritism? A store policy in the Shanghai bridal boutique of Chinese-American designer Vera Wang, which sees potential clients charged 3,000 yuan (QR 1800) to try on a dress, has been scrapped following global outcry of discrimination. Vera Wang is known as the ‘Queen of Bridal’, and her lavish gowns are regally priced, with dresses in her Chinese boutique starting at 30,000 yuan (QR 17,600). However, the luxury brand got into hot water over a controversial ‘trying fee’ for customers of the Shanghai location. The Shanghai flagship, which opened in January, planned to charge would-be customers just to try on the gowns. Customers have been upset that Wang’s Chinese customers are being treated differently to her clients elsewhere around the world. The brand explained the move as an attempt to “protect the copyright of the designer”. Design piracy fears are strong in Asia, where last year Dolce & Gabbana worked with authorities in a move to prevent Hong Kong residents from taking photographs inside or outside of the brand’s store, provoking protests.

The London-based design label has unveiled a revamped victoriabeckham.com, now featuring e-commerce. According to Victoria Beckham CEO Zach Duane, about 20% of Beckham’s current sales come from online, via third-party stores like thecorner.com and net-à-porter. com. “That statistic alone makes it an important next step for us. When you think about opening your first physical shop, you come to the point of view that e-commerce allows you to service a global customer. We sell to over 54 countries, and we have a very even distribution across those counties,” he told a magazine. With the relaunch of her website, Beckham’s customers in the UK, North America and Europe can now buy directly from the company online. Accessories (including her minimalist bags), the Victoria - victoria beckham diffusion line, eyewear, and denim are all available to purchase. In addition, the site is also the exclusive home of the new ‘Icon’ range, a curated selection of ‘greatest hits’ from the past few seasons.


GLAM / SHOP

APRIL 2013

Stepping out with sophistication Since its establishment in Greece in 1983, Migato has dedicated itself to creating fashionable shoes and accessories. Season after season the company which is headquartered in Athens, works endlessly to provide a wide variety of styles to satisfy the fashion demands of its loyal customers. From shoes to bags, belts, and other accessories Migato continues to extend its product line, covering all aspects of the footwear and accessory spectrum. After Migato's success in Europe, it reached out to the MENA region through Al Siddiqi Retail, with branches in Qatar and Egypt, and soon to open branches in Kuwait and Oman. More than 120 retail shops have been established in various prime locations that are all found in the heart of commercial traffic. Each Migato outlet promises unparalleled service, absolute customer satisfaction, and a true fashion shopping experience.


24 \ shop talk

The quintessence of style Peter Philips, Creative Director of Chanel Makeup, interprets the unique combination of precision and playfulness, enhancing the elegance of natural shades with a few precious touches. The Exclusive Creation of the collection is a silky powder that highlights a face eagerly awaiting sunny days. This season’s lipsticks are tender or bold but always sophisticated while the nail colours are elegant and surprising but always classy.


26 \ shop talk

Stunning designs Al Motahajiba is an upscale abaya store with wide range of variety to satisfy every women s need. The brand opened its first outlet shop in 1982, in the heart of Doha's most popular Souq and is still popular to this day. Talented designers brainstorm together, create the concept and idea, sketch it on paper and implement an exquisite, feminine, chic, trendy design that is perfected to the smallest detail for customers around the world. The group tailor makes a design to suit each occasion such as daily wear, holidays, weddings. The brand is located in more than five countries with more than 20 stores around the region.


28 \ shop talk Bags of class The luxury brand Porche Design's  first women's handbag is now available in all Porsche Design Stores around the world and in the official online store. The TwinBag is distinguished by its unique design and exclusive leather materials, expertly crafted by workers in Florence. The main highlight is the bag's clever carrying concept: its adjustable handles allow the TwinBag to be worn as either a handbag or a shoulder bag. Produced from a single piece of calf leather, the bag is painstakingly stitched by hand in an intricate production process. Its Italian production ensures the finest workmanship and particular attention to detail - the handbag benefits from knowledge and tradition passed down through generations of Florentine craft workers. The Porsche Design TwinBag is one of the most exclusive bags around this season. Premium quality was a key focus in the selection of materials. The leather is tanned using an ecological process, the lining is made from soft Alcantara and the metal fittings are finished using an elaborate electroplating procedure. After vegetable tanning, the selected leather varieties, exclusive ostrich leather, elegant crocodile leather and modern calf leather, are processed with the highest precision and utmost attention to quality. An elaborate electroplating process is used to produce six different finishes for the timeless metal fittings which are then polished by hand. The fittings are made from precious metals, such as gold, white gold, rose gold, matt gold, silver and chrome.

Trendsetting hand bags Handbags are no longer just accessories but have become the ultimate fashion statement among style conscious women. Stylish and classy bags are a timeless staple for your wardrobe. Fiorelli, the leading accessory brand from UK ups the ante this season with its classy Spring Cruise Collection  available across all the City Lifestyle stores. The range boasts of chic office wear structured handbags in early spring hues like orange, pine green, red, taupe and chocolate. Combining multifunctional elements, detachable across body straps, triple compartments and a flurry of closed zip pockets adds the perfect finishing touch to the collection. Eye catching animal patterns, colour blocking designs and classic snake skin embossed materials with the feminine Fiorelli marquee are the key highlights of the stunning range. Fiorelli products are designed in London by a young, ambitious and forward thinking team of designers which is evident from its creative and vibrant designs. Brand innovation, meticulous design and high perceived value give Fiorelli the competitive edge.


30 \ shop talk Forest raptures This season Kenzo uses a mix of green and ochre inspired by the forests. There are also jolts of ice blue and pale pink, with geometric and organic patterns. The designers have combined a love of utility, found in versatile multifunctional pieces, with sensuality and fluidity and paired it with looser silhouettes. Sky-high leather boots with drawstrings, high-heeled acid lizard loafers and heavily embroidered, glossy lizard sandals with raffia and metal detailing complete the urban jungle look.

Making a splash

Contemporary classics The legendary Italian footwear, bags and accessory company, Sergio Rossi brings out a new collection of styles. The spring, summer collection presents a visually striking collection that is pure and without compromise. A mix of radical design of bold colours, angular geometric motifs, and a penchant for unusual materials all encompass the designs. The tone is daring and sharp. Each model has a precise aesthetic character defined by a spirit that is both elegant and classic.

Each season as fashion inspires, excites and enthralls the style-conscious aficionados, Splash tugs at the season's trends to showcase a collection that is talk-worthy. As the SS 13 Splash catwalk at Madinat Arena, Dubai came alive with sleeker, more functional and minimalist leaning wardrobe inspirations for both men and women, more than 3000 fashion enthusiasts became part of the changing face of fashion. Salman Khan, Bollywood superstar, also made an appearance in support of the brand Splash, which are the sole distributors of Being Human in the Region and his friend Raza Beig, CEO Splash. 45 models walked the ramp showcasing trends for this season.


32 \ shop talk

Focus on minimalism This Spring Summer 2013 collection by Karen Millen, is contemporary, minimal and clean. Although the season is not truly thematic, spring summer focuses on modern pieces that are pared down and confident. The strongest key looks for the reason centre around streamlined sportswear, sixties modernist influences and a raft of Japanese-inspired silhouttes. There is a strong focus on minimalism this season where a new modern restrained mood has been defined.

Eternal flame Ever wondered how perfume can elevate the mood of your surroundings? Now The One brings you designer scented candles. According to Kelly Hoppen, trendsetting interior designer to the stars, "Scent is the key to creating an atmosphere and completing a space." A fusion of fragrance and fashion sums up Kelly's sophisticated range of scented vegetable wax candles, which will bring a chic, designer touch to your living space. Calvin Klein Home's range of chic soy blend candles and highly aromatic diffusers, redefines luxury for the more discerning home fragrance connoisseur. Fashion designer and florist Meredith Waga, founder of New York's famous Belle Fleur boutique, teamed up with her architect husband Tony Perez to offer an exotic collection of floral scented candles, renowned for their long-lasting aroma. Crafted using quality sustainable ingredients, including soy blended wax and essential oils, each candle is a full-bodied, luscious luxury. The luxury Metallic collection by Welton London features a host of candles and diffusers presented in elegant metallic holders, making them look as good as they smell.


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Head Turners This SS13, we spy lots of fancy hair accessories on the runway starting off with the cute ribbon fabrics at Louis Vuitton to the turban-inspired pieces at Dolce & Gabbana. We say hair accessories are not only fun but convenient especially during summer to keep your hair in check. 1 Evita Peroni Angelie Soft Band ● 2 Accessorize Linen Mesh Band ● 3 Accessorize Bejewelled Hair Pins ● 4 Asos Floral Hairband ● 5 Asos Green Flexible Wire Band ● 6 Evita Peroni Stina Soft Band ●


Some of the best looks we spot aren't from the red carpet or the runway. Celebrities on off-days love their chic dress downs and pullovers. Rock an edgy pair of denim with a bold statement tee and top it off with a comfortable knit cardigan for a casual day out. For an extra pop of colour, the bejewelled collar saves the day. Save

Vs

EACH X OTHER Leather Detailed Chunky Knit Sweater QR1003

Splurge

CASUAL COMFORT Compiled By DEBRINA ALIYAH

Suite Blanco Knit Top QR109

TOM BINNS A Riot of Colour glow-in-the-dark Swavorski crystal necklace QR8432

Suite Blanco Ceramic Collar QR95

Suite Blanco Skinny Faded Jeans QR109 EACH X OTHER Distressed Mid-Rise Skinny Jeans QR1409

Suite Blanco Statement Tee QR95

Save All items available from Suite Blanco Lagoona Mall

EACH X OTHER Statement Cotton Tank QR502 Splurge All items available EXCLUSIVELY from Net A Porter


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1 Ascia in emerald QR 800 ● 2 Audrey in gardenia pink QR 900 ● 3 Braid in black QR 700 ● 4 Print Pop in tropical QR 650 ● 5 Python Pop in pink QR 1400 ● 6 Sheikha Moza bint Nasser sporting ●

a designer turban

7 Chic printed turban ● 8 Prada Spring/Summer 2007 ● 9 Eva Mendes ● 10 Kourtney Kardashian ●

TURBAN

CHIC

Turbans have been making a fashion statement since Paul Poiret began topping off his creations with them way back in the early 20th century (though Sikhs, of course, had been wearing them for centuries before that though not as a fashion statement). From 1940’s film noir costumes a Joan Crawford to Elizabeth Taylor, the glory days of Yves Saint Laurent, Prada’s Spring 2007 show, and Qatar’s own style icon HH Sheikha Moza bint Nasser, turbans are making yet another return. Glam is loving UAE designer Malaak’s beautiful range of headwear and this season there are many different options to choose from. More colours available on website www.malaak.ae


40 \ fashion

Get that Look Mixing up colours and textures, put the Spring in your step!

Erickson Beamon Nexus Swarovski crystal drop earrings QR 1650

1.

Tamara Al Gabbani

Saint Laurent patent-leather pumps QR 2300

Valentino studded leather tote QR 7700


Tom Binns Electro Clash Nova Swarovski crystal necklace QR 3500

Saint Laurent Betty mini chain suede shoulder bag QR 4850

Bounkit 24-karat gold-plated onyx and quartz clip earrings QR 2700

2. Kanzi

Jimmy Choo Viper patent-leather pumps QR 2850

3. Rouge

Couture

(product images credit: net-a-porter.com)

Matthew Williamson Swarovski crystalembellished suede clutch QR 4800

Charlotte Olympia The Dolly leather pumps QR 3600


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Nirav Modi - Elastic Bangle The classic Gold Elastic Bangles come in pink, white and yellow gold adorned with diamonds and can be worn stacked or solo. www.niravmodi.com

Trend Spotting Fresh from previewing the next Autumn Winter collection and gently fizzing out the current Spring buzz, we understand that you will need a little mid-season pick-me-up to freshen up your wardrobe. We trend spot some star buys that will definitely stay in-style for the rest of 2013.

02 Banana Republic Dual Lined Blazer Banana Republic at Villaggio

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Bottega Veneta Chunky Platform Heels Bottega Veneta at Villaggio

04 Victoria Beckham Tote Exclusive Harper Tote at Harrods.com


fashion / 43

07 Boodles Blosson Diamond Ring at Harrods.com

05 Nina Ricci Mini Grand Duo - available at Al-Muftah Jewellery

06 GAP - Colour block Stripe Tunic GAP at Landmark and Villaggio

08 Etro Multi Panel Sheath Dress at stylebop.com


44 \ fashion

Tasmeem Fashion Design

Designs of collaboration IT TOOK ALMOST HALF A YEAR FROM THE CONCEPTION OF THE IDEA TO THE FINAL RUNWAY SHOW, BUT THE EFFORT WAS WELL WORTH FOR JOANNA DALLIMORE AND SAHAR MARI, THE DRIVING FORCE BEHIND THE 2013 TASMEEM FASHION DESIGN PRESENTATION.


It

was a simple idea to put together a team of Virginia Common Wealth University Qatar (VCUQ ) fashion alumni to work with Qatar-based designers to create a collection that was designed and made in the country. But the simple idea was aimed at addressing a more pertinent issue, the manufacturing viability of producing a fashion collection locally. "We gave the designers a budget and we documented their journey in producing these pieces. The aim here is to raise awareness that we need to start building an infrastructure to support fashion designers in starting their own labels. The designers worked within limited resources to produce six pieces per team for the show," says Joanna and adds that, "currently Qatar is not ready in terms of infrastructure should the teams decide to mass produce."  Each team was assigned one colour from the visible spectrum to produce a hybrid collection that included both abayas and contemporary ready-to-wear pieces. The six teams came together to

design the final colour of violet to make up the complete spectrum. The final work was presented in a special runway show during the biennial Tasmeem Design Conference, the showcase event for VCUQ. The finale of the project was unveiled to the attendees of the conference which included guests from all around the world. "We received excellent feedback on the collections –– that it married the local culture with the influences of the people who live here. The fashion design team was very diverse, including Qataris, a Korean, a German, a Filipino, a Californian, Malaysians and a Pakistani," says Sahar. The collection has since been sold through a silent auction at the VCUQ Design Shop. "There may be some bumps on the road but we are definitely progressing. But for now, the independent designers in Doha are definitely doing their best in producing unique pieces and this goes to show that creativity can brew anywhere!" says Joanna. 1 Indigo by Najla Hamad Al Thani ●

My collection is simple with clean silhouettes. Very feminine but with a slight edginess. As these pieces will be for sale off the runway,


46 \ fashion

I wanted them to be wearable with an effortless style. It can be accessorised to fit any time of day and any occasion. I was inspired by the hybrid of the classic woman, icons like Audrey Hepburn and the modern woman who lives a fast-paced life. 2 Orange by Elizabeth Yang Soon Ju ●

The abaya and the Hanbok (traditional Korean garment) share flat characteristics that create comfortable movement for wearers and this inspired my collection. Another key design concept came from transferable styles, which allows the customisation of looks. Considering that the abaya is often made in polyester, which has low breathability, I used natural fibers, such as linen, silk, and cotton, as the primary fabrics to make comfortable contemporary pieces in Qatar' s hot weather. All these design efforts are made to contribute to eco-friendly fashion in the long run.  3 Yellow by Joanna Dallimore & Zara Otho ●

The collection was inspired by the Qatari desert with its golden yellow hues, and the opulence of the local gold souq. Joanna who has been living in Qatar for almost a decade, collaborated with young designer Otho who had just recently moved here. The collection featured edgy abayas with a glimmer of golden dust and draping hoodies as well as contemporary pieces of harem pants and two-way scarves which reflected both designers'  funky personalities. Joanna says, "I absolutely love the abaya. I would happily wear one daily. They are instant elegance and can hide a multitude of sins. When I arrived in Doha I was rather disappointed when I found out that expats could walk freely in Western clothes! When I wear an abaya, I can actually feel myself walking straighter. My only personal objection would be

the shayla, my bright orange hair is a bit of a trademark.  4 Green by Carla Mallari, Debrina Aliyah and Chan Mei Ling ●

The collection is a hybrid of the two cultures in the team, Filipino and Malaysian. The contemporary pieces designed by Chan and Debrina reflected the V-neck pattern that is prevalent in the Malaysian  baju kebaya , worn traditionally by women in the country. The abaya pieces featured the stiff standing shoulders, a design that is synonymous with traditional Filipino costumes. The final combination is a contemporary touch by the designers; Carla's edgy tuxedo collar meets the one-shoulder signature style of Chan and Debrina's design outfit, Twenty30Forty. 5 Blue by Sahar Mari and Nayla Al-Mullah ●

Although one half of this team is Qatari, Nayla is not one that usually draws inspiration from her culture but this time around, she has decided to dig deep into traditional Qatari costumes to inspire the modern collection. By combining the traditional embroidery and shapes of Qatari garments, she produced contemporary pieces including a hooded top, a kaftan and a short dress. The abayas, designed by Sahar, were driven by the blue patterned fabric she chose and is based on a simplistic design to accommodate for daily wear. 6 Red by Sarah Abdul Ghani ●

"I get my inspiration from many sources, shapes, colours and patterns, whether from books, catalogues or just my own experiences. I blend all these influences together and combine them with my own tastes, colours and ideas to create original designs. I am not one for pure simplicity but rather something with a touch of beauty," says Sarah.


FOCUS / 47

Reinventing

Tradition

The abaya, is one of a few things that is symbolic of the Middle East to the world. Often misunderstood, only those who have had the privilege of living in the region and discovering the beauty of this garment will realize that it is not just a dark cloak. As a fashion statement, the abaya now sees interpretations in different fabrics, cuts, styles and even dashes of colours. We meet the owners of two multi-brand abaya boutiques, and some of the most inspiring upcoming abaya designers from Qatar and around the region to bring to you a special insight into the evolution of the traditional abaya to a contemporary fashion statement. Now trending: Images from the Debaj Collection that premiered at the Luxury Network launch event held at Rizon Jet facilities last month


Jo La Mode Boutique

A GUIDING

FORCE BY debrina aliyah

MEET THE VISIONARY BEHIND THE BOUTIQUE WHO IS ON A MISSION TO DEVELOP QATARI FASHION TALENTS.


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There

is a quiet force driving the surge of Qatari fashion design talents. A guiding hand that helps budding designers look past their small home-based operations and focus on something bigger. It is an effort that comes from pure passion and determination, and Jawaher Al Kuwari is just the woman for the job. It has been almost a year since Jawaher opened Jo La Mode, a multi-brand boutique specialising in abayas, but her role in her own community to encourage creative talents started long before. The formidable entrepreneur has a very pragmatic approach towards her goal, to provide an infrastructure to help talents grow by providing support and business guidance. She hopes to one day put these Qatari talents on the world map, but the task at hand is not an easy one. “There are a lot of very creative and talented abaya designers. Most of them start out as a home-based operation and after achieving a little success in their own social circle, they stop. They are satisfied at that level but what we want to do is to show them the bigger picture, a chance at the international arena.” Education is the key, she emphasises and this year, she has joined the panel on the Fashion Journey Project organised by Roudha Center to promote fashion entrepreneurship. In her effort to find the next Qatari fashion star, she hopes that Jo La Mode will be an integral platform for the abaya fashion industry in the country.

We take great pride and effort in carrying authentic designer accessories from big names and this is the same approach we take towards abayas.

When and why did you decide to start Jo La Mode? I had always planned to start a company of my own but I was not very sure in which direction I should head into. It would have to be something that revolved around women and fashion, something that would be easy to pursue as a woman in my community. In the end, I took the big leap and started researching the business of retail and launched Jo La Mode in May 2012.

What is your most important focus as a multi-brand abaya boutique? I am very much about promoting the growth of local and regional designers because I feel that these talents need the platform to grow and expand. Jo La Mode is focused on encouraging these designers, their creative work and their contribution to the fashion world. Tell us about the importance of the abaya in modern day Qatari society. The Abaya is the foundation of a Khaleeji woman’s wardrobe. It is no less important than designer bags or shoes. We take great pride and effort in carrying authentic designer accessories from big names and this is the same approach we take towards abayas. In modern times, most women would seek out designer abayas rather than just tailoring it themselves. Who are some of your favourite abaya designers and why? It is difficult to pin down any certain name but I can say, all the designers who are carried in Jo La Mode now are definitely my top picks! What do you think are some important efforts to help Qatari fashion designers become regional success stories? Any designer should consider two very important factors before starting their brand. They need to work on their designs and originality, experiment with different directions and gather a lot of feedback on their work. The second part is to have a strategic plan for their brand and this is very much related to the business perspective. They must identify where they would like to distribute their products, how they would like to market it, identify the need to open their own store or to use other selling channels. Who are the 13 permanent designers in your boutique? DAS Collection, Bedazzled, Malaak, Slouchyz, and Roselle Couture from the UAE. HANIA and TaaMarbouta from Saudi Arabia. Darz Designs, Aldarzi by Mariam, Maha Oriental Pieces, MJay Designs, Fakhira Abaya and The Crown Turbans from Qatar. Why did you choose them? There are four important points that I have to see in a brand before I stock them in my boutique; originality and creativity, productivity of the brand, the vision of the brand and their suitability to our client’s demands.


Darz Designs

Classic meets modern BY debrina aliyah


FOCUS / 53

Three

years and 12 collections after the fashion brand was initiated, Darz Designs is going stronger than ever. Unveiling the latest L 'Original collection in a fancy party last month, it is undeniable that the abaya brand has garnered the strongest of following with the fashionable abaya-clad women showing up in full force including Raya Al-Khalifa and Hanane Al-Emadi. L 'Original is the label 's first collection for 2013 and celebrates the culmination of luxury, elegance and sophistication, all the attributes of the modern day abayawearing woman. Creative director Aisha Al Bedded takes us into the folds of the Qatari abaya world. The New Collection It’s the most eloquent of all the collections by Darz to date, and of course features styles from ready-to-wear to couture. We have an abaya for every occasion. The L 'Original Collection is exciting as it is the first to be launched within our new creative direction, this range is quite unique and we are so proud of the collection. We have launched the collection along with our new website, our new loyalty membership programme and also gifts & birthday certificates for our clients. We are not only celebrating the traditional beauty of the abaya, but also our clients'  loyalty and support.  2013 Abaya Trends The most important trends in abayas are the new cuts and shapes we are seeing, as well as the use of different types of fabric and stitching, which defines the overall look of the abaya. Embroidery and the use of contrast patch has also remained a popular trend for the design in 2013, and we feature these unique touches throughout our collections, making them very personalised and quite special.  The Evolving Symbolism of the Abaya Today, we are seeing the abaya getting more and more fashionable. At Darz we believe that the abaya should respect the tradition whilst being trendy and elegant. Our motto is –  Tradition meets Fashion. We aim to preserve the cultural respect and history behind the abaya, whilst experimenting with different cuts, embroideries and textiles. We pride ourselves on preserving the original look and narrative of the abaya, whilst offering some unique and elegant touches to the classic abayas, through accessories such as belts and fine materials.  The Qatari Touch The Qatari abaya is still very traditional, but we can see today that many ladies are starting to wear new styles and cuts. I think on average it is still very popular to wear classic black abaya in Qatar, unlike the ladies from the other Gulf countries who go for different looks and styles.


The Hania Collection

For THE Confident Women BY SINDHU NAIR

interiors of Jo LaMode belie the traditional abayas it showcases. Cool, contemporary and white, Jo LaMode Boutique offers a perfect backdrop for the flowing black robes that define the Arab woman. The designer in focus here is Hania Albraikan, whose collections are available at the Ja LaMode Boutique. The young, beautiful Saudi national is cool and composed and her smile puts you at ease, instantly. With just a year and half in the fashion abaya business, Hania Collection is already a popular name in fashion circles and her success story started when she started to design her own abayas. She was only in her twenties and attending college, when she started. “My family and friends used to like my designs and they were my initial clients. It just kind of expanded, and soon I had my own clientele,� she says.


FOCUS / 55

Founded originally in 2011, as a branch of her father’s company, Hania branched out on her own and started her line of designs. Hania describes her designs as, “classy, luxurious, sharp and ideal for classy confident women.” Extremely meticulous and in her own words, “ the desire to do whatever I do, perfectly”, Hania has been extremely lucky with people lapping up her designs as soon as she launched. There has never been a dearth of work. “It all happened fast,” she says about the business. “I have a loyal customer base here in Qatar too,” she says. Her designs are based on “the season, the trends and it is always a variation of black and white. I prefer to work with crystal.” She first showcases her designs at the Dubai Fashion Show and then she “brings pieces for Jo LaMode, too.” Her designs for the Qatari and Saudi women are not different, Hania says. Her clientele, she says, come to her looking for

bespoke abayas that allow them to dress confidently without sacrificing style. Designing abayas are bound by challenges, agrees Hania but it is these challenges that excite her as well. “We are restricted by the colour and the shape and there are rules for every factor of the design,” she says, “but I still love it, because it defines us in a way.” Her goals are to design with the customer’s views in mind, and for this, she maintains a good relation with all of them. Hania has plans to expand to jalebiyas and other ready-to-wear clothes and this is a “exclusive information” that she has revealed for the first time to the Glam readers. Accessories won’t be her focus for some time as she is going to dedicate her time to the new readyto-wear collection. She uses only the finest materials that she sources from Japan and India and other parts of the wthe world., spends a great deal of time making each design completely perfect.

1 Style statement ●

“Everything depends on my mood. No funky style but more towards the feminine and classy.”

2 Accessories ● “It makes the abayas more beautiful. 3 Favourite designers ● Chanel, from the Arab region, Elie Saab and she loves the sharpness of Alexander McQueen’s designs. 4 Favourite style personality ●

Her Highness Sheikha Moza Bint Nasser and Queen Rania.

5 Highlight of the latest design ● Layers of lace, and black and white. Famous personalities who have dressed in Hania Collection include Princess Ameerah, the wife of Prince Alwaleed bin Talal.


56 \ fashion

W PHOTOGRAPHY BY LUBAIB GAZIR

hen did you decide to start your own label? I was interested in designing and drawing at a very early age, and I was into styling and fashion as well. So when I combined both passions I ended up with fashion design a few years ago. I kept designing various styles and then decided to focus on designing something people tend to wear most, in the place where I reside. I started designing abayas two years ago and to my surprise, I get the same amount of expatriate customer as locals. Perhaps they have been in this part of region for too long and adapted the culture.

Dressed for

success

What is your most important focus as an abaya designer? The most important aspect of being an abaya designer is to be creative and keep up with the trends and integrate something special each season. There should be a balance that respects the religious aspects of people as well as be good looking enough for people wear it. Tell us about the importance of the abaya in modern day Qatari society. The definition of abaya is different for different people, Qatari society love fashion because it provides a sense of taste, and I feel it's essential to keep those qualities. I believe people are going to be looking for really special and stunning abayas and that's what I hope to provide. It's the main concern for people because an abaya represents their personality.

By Abigail Mathias

Who are some of your favourite abaya designers and why? I like Waad Designs. She has the sense of adding a significant change to the abaya and she has her own touch, too. I admire her work. I also like Malaak, who is based in Dubai. I've always liked her work which is very elegant and modern.

Fatma Ghanem (a.k.a. Fufi) is a Libyan fashion designer whose abayas are both trendy and contemporary. She tells us more about her designs.

What do you think are some important efforts to help Qatari fashion designers become regional success stories? Once you have the passion, you will have it all. You have to work 10 times more than other, never be satisfied and always crave success. Never settle for anything less than that and you will grow, eventually.


fOCUS / 57 Young and ambitious fashion designer, Latifa Al Kaabi gives us a sneak peak in to her world and explains why the abaya is not just a simple piece of clothing. How did you embark on the journey of designing abayas? It first started as a little idea when I was very young. The idea got bigger as I grew older, I started designing my own abayas and dresses and everyone who saw them liked them and praised my work. In 2009, I started thinking seriously of having my own local brand and in 2010, the idea was put in action. As for uniqueness, I am the only Qatari designer who tries and will always keep trying to combine the traditional designs from several different countries to make a woman as beautiful as possible. As an abaya designer, what are the fashion elements that you keep in mind while creating a piece? As the dominant colour in all abayas is black, my focus doesn't tackle the colour itself. Rather, it is about the design. From the old days, Qatari women wore the abaya as a traditional costume and this tradition continued to play a big role in our society. As everything in our life changed, the design of the abaya also changed. Now ladies no longer want to wear the normal abaya as they want to be fashionistas! Who are some of your favorite abaya designers and why? I admire the two Emirati sisters who own the DAS Collection as their design is unique. Their designs have already travelled around the world. Some of their abayas have been displayed in Harrods. These two ladies inspire me a lot. The other designers that are worth mentioning are my two friends who own Pattern abaya brand. To me, all Qatari designers are evolving and trying to do their best to make the Qatari abaya designs exceptional.

Designer

dreams By Abigail Mathias

What do you think are some important efforts to help Qatari fashion designers become regional success stories? As designers, we all want to to be recognized locally as a first step and then regional and even international success. Many factors contribute to this ultimate goal. One of them is that the designer should be an informed person. They should work continuously without being seasonal. Another very important factor is that the designer should reach different means of media so that they can tell others about the product. Lastly, and most important is the reputation of the designer and the uniqueness in every design.


Abayat Al Fakhira

Creating

trends BY SABRINA CHRISTENSEN

Glam speaks to the designer behind Qatar's own abaya label, Fakhira. What does Fakhira mean? I got the name Fakhira from my grandmother. It means elegance. Her parents are from the UAE and this name is very unique in Qatar. When did you first decide to become an abaya designer? My sister and I started this business together. It started as a hobby and then developed into a viable business. I think that it was done the right way and hence we succeeded. We thought of what the market here would accept from a Qatari designer and then we decided to start with abayas. How do you come up with new designs? I design what I like to wear and what I think people will accept. I always worry about crossing the line where an abaya doesn' t serve its main function. At the end of the day, we are Muslims and an abaya is something that covers our bodies. Personally I don’t think it should overshadow that. It’s hard to do that keeping that in mind the new trends that hit the market. I’m very passionate about fashion and designing. Where do you get your inspirations? I watch a lot of fashion shows and sometimes draw inspiration from details of other designs. For example, I see one tiny flower on a dress and I can change it around and collaborate into a design on the abaya. I give it a new interpretation. How to make the design fit within the box where it’s still acceptable for the people is the real trick. How did your business start out? We first started the business as a trial at an exhibition in Villagio for three days last year. We said to ourselves that the success of the exhibition would be the decisive factor. If we make a profit, we would continue and thankfully people came and were impressed with the designs. I came up with a design with pearls, which was very popular and it still is popular to this day. Another one of my designs had a big collar, similar to a coat with a bow tie at the waist and we still get orders for that design. I didn’t study fashion so the closer I work with tailors

and fabric salesmen, the more I learn. I didn’t even know the name of fabrics until I got into the business. Now I have a firm grasp of what I like and make sure we only use the best quality. We import our fabrics from Saudi Arabia and Dubai. One of the most important detail for me in selecting fabrics is that the fabric should not spoil when washed or dry cleaned. This saves my reputation and keeps my customers coming back. Where are you selling your designs? Currently, we are selling at Jo La Mode boutique in Royal Plaza. However, we showcase our new collections first at the exhibitions. Instead of opening our own store, we prefer limited numbers and this makes people anticipate the new collection. I displayed my winter collection three months ago and it has almost sold out. The saleswoman said people are now asking for the new collection. In the fashion industry, they are a season ahead, however for abayas it works differently. We don’t have many shows for abayas, so it’s more difficult to look ahead for the new trends. You have to create your own trends. What are your plans for the future? I’m currently working with a friend on a fashion website; it’s going live in two weeks for a user-trial. The website will feature all my abayas and customers can schedule an appointment for my assistant to come take their measurements, then they can choose if they want it personally delivered or by post. Customers from overseas can submit their own measurements and we will ship their orders. I am also in the process of creating some casual ready-to-wear pieces. The website will also feature other designers. We have already spoken to some Middle Eastern designers who show at the exhibitions and they love the idea. We will deal with all the logistics and promote and display their designs. I’m not just helping myself but others too.


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Abaya A-Listers By Susanna Wolfe


Texture Boutique, the brainchild of Kholoud Al-Mana and Dana Al-Mana, is a vision of the dynamic duo to celebrate fashion every day. Having studied Interior Design at VCUQatar, the girls really enjoyed designing this contemporary and luxurious space themselves. Launched in April 2012, Texture is much more than just a lavish boutique that sells abayas, with exquisite creations and designs from all around the region. Both ready-to-wear creations and bespoke abaya orders are available at the boutique. Texture also showcases exquisite home ware and accessory lines including pieces that have been designed exclusively for the boutique.

Is it quite easy for women to be entrepeneurs in Qatar? It should be as the competition is not especially strong, but it is not that easy. However, we have had good support from our families and they are very proud of us; that we are out there doing something different.

Why did you change your career course from interior design to fashion? We like both fashion and interiors, but we found a niche in market. There were no specialist shops that sold good abayas in Doha and the demand was very high. Are you the first boutique in Qatar to support local abaya designers and designers from all over the Gulf ? Yes we think so. We wanted our clients to have a different shopping experience by creating a comfortable and trendy place to fulfill the needs of Middle Eastern women all under one roof. We select our designers carefully; luxury and exclusive labels from all around the Gulf region are our main focus. How has the abaya design changed over the years? The Abaya began like a big cloth for the upper body, a piece to be carried. Then it changed to cover the entire body. The design became flow cut and looser, some flowed from the head so as not to show the shoulders. About 15 years ago, designers used lighter materials and starting embellishing the sleeves. The abaya became more fashionable and people accepted it can be trendy.


Is it now accepted to use the abaya as a fashion statement? Yes and it’s nice to bring different designs from Saudi and Kuwait as people like to experience different cuts. In areas of Jeddah people have started to wear coloured abayas instead of black, other designs include the belt. Would that be accepted here in Doha? We bought a couple of dark coloured ones; green, and they were sold. Would the older generation of your families accept you wearing the newer look, trendier style of abayas? Yes - we want it to be very fashionable and yet meet its purpose. We like to bring a different way of thinking by transporting the abaya into a more trendy look and yet still be conservative, be covered and not lose the meaning of the abaya. Do you go to the designers studios to pick the items you want to showcase at Texture? Yes, of course. We want to see a creation on, not just call the designer. We also give suggestions of what our customers like and want; we work with the designer to bring out something different. Some of the designers are quite shy so we give them the opportunity to showcase their stuff for eight weeks at Texture - if it doesn’t work, they take it back! How do you know if there is a brand new designer coming on the scene? We search very hard! Are you planning on expanding your empire?

Yes ,we want to create a hub for local designers around the region in the Gulf so everyone knows Texture and maybe even open in London. We like to think of the Gulf as one we are all one.

1 Aisha’z Collection by Aisha Adel Al-Naemi ● Aisha is a young passionate Qatari who has taken tradition and culture to a very modern level. She started her business in 2010, and, is the owner and designer. She designs exclusive Abaya’s with unique shapes and patterns using high quality jewellery. Aisha chooses high style gems and beautiful detailed embroidery to capture the very essence of design, which women seek from her one off creations. She is very creative and her style and designs keep evolving. 2 Nabrman by Hend Al Mutawa ●

Hend’s focus and drive comes from her desire to change the global perception of the abaya and for people to appreciate the elegance that it symbolises. And the name she chose for her business; Nabrman (Turkish for white flower), visualizes purity and elegance. This Emarati fashion house has found a perfect mix between vintage and modern designs to present abayas in fully on-trend fashion. Kim Kardashian was snapped by paparazzi wearing an amazing Nabrman creation during her recent visit to Dubai.

3 Naeema Al Shuhail ● Naeema is a lady who has many years of design experience from Saudi Arabia, now based in Lebanon. Since she established her brand in 2006, it has been a supporter of humanitarian efforts in the region. Her beautiful Jalabiya designs are inspired from traditional attire using intricate, very fine antique embroidery to create a vintage look. Jalabiya’s can be worn under abaya’s or for traditional henna events, Ramadan, or at morning gatherings.


62 \ fashion

TIMELESS

CHIC COMPILED BY SABRINA CHRISTENSEN


An ex-beauty queen who has traversed the world and walked GLOBAL RUNWAYS, the stunning Sakala A. Debrass IS A vivacious personality. she is always quick to share experiences from her career as a model & her time as the runner-up of Miss India 1991. Now she dedicates her time to training others, blogging & writing. We got cozy in her beautiful home, a curation of her travels, & chatted with her on her style pieces.

Tory Birch leopard ballet flats, necklace from Bangkok

Halter top from Aftershock in Landmark Mall, jeans from Hugo Boss at The Pearl, silver clutch from Latitude One in Mumbai

Grey dress from the UK, necklace from MIA street fair

Two-toned brogues from Italy, orange shoes from 51 East, tan shoes from Mall of the Emirates


64 \ fashion RED by Sarah AbdulGhani

Styling: Tasmeem Fashion Design Team Photography: Karli Moreto Makeup: Debi Mendez Hair: Blanca Montenegro Models: Hye Sun Kim, Ghinwa El Baff & Adrianna Ellam Shot at the Student Center of Education City, Qatar.


fashion / 65

Made In Qatar The Tasmeem fashion design team adopted the visible colours of the spectrum to present a full-fledge collection of abayas and ready-towear pieces for the bi-ANNUALS VCUQ Tasmeem Design conference. The project featured works that were designed and made in Qatar by a team that came from all around the world. The Hybrid-Making collection was shot by GLAM to commemorate a first ever effort to showcase Qatar-based design talents.


ORANGE by Elizabeth Yang


GREEN by Carla Mallari, Debrina Aliyah & Chan Mei Ling


YELLOW by Joanna Dallimore & Zara Othos


INDIGO by Sheikha Najla Hamad Al-Thani


BLUE by Sahar Mari & Nayla Ahmad Al-Mulla

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72 \ fashion

For a worthwhile

cause

T

By Abigail Mathias

he youth often get labeled as a lot that is busy in their carefree worlds. A few young people got together to prove otherwise. A unique event, called The Al Amal Charity Fashion Show for Cancer Awareness organised by The Youth Company, a social enterprise for youth development, took place in Qatar last month. Initiated by Fatma Ghanem, a young Libyan fashion designer, the event was designed as an effort to raise awareness about cancer patients in Qatar and collect funds for National Center for Cancer Care and Research (NCCCR), formerly known as Al Amal Hospital. During the show an elite and diverse collection of Abayasabayas, reflecting a 60 s themes, called "The soul of the 60's" was presented. "I am happy to see such a large turnout for a noble cause, said the young designer," Fatma Ghanem. GLAM was a proud media supporter at the event. The evening began with advice from Fiona Bonas, from the Supreme Council of Health of The State of Qatar, and Rajaa Hammoud,

Assistant Executive Director of Nursing Services, NCCR. The speakers talked about the importance of raising awareness on cancer, its early detection and early treatment. Guests were urged to stop smoking, keep an active lifestyle, eat healthy and to visit doctor in case of any disturbing symptoms. The mood was elevated with a number of musical performances by a few young singers from Doha. There was also a small exhibition of photographs and paintings by local artists. The upbeat fashion show concluded with a fun auction, where the public was invited to bid for local art pieces and images that included prominent landmarks of Qatar and abayas, presented at the event. All the funds raised at the event, were to be donated through Qatar Charity to National Center for Cancer Care and Research. "We are always proud to support young talented people to realise their ideas, which aim to create a positive impact in society," said Aya Abu Issa, acting Chief Executive Officer of The Youth Company. "We are especially honuored to partner with various government institutions, public and private companies and organisations, who helped us on the path of developing youth and addressing community needs."


74 \ HERITAGE

Vionnet

A story of liberation FOR A RESERVED AND PRIVATE PERSONALITY, MADELEINE VIONNET HAS LEFT A LEGACY THAT CHANGED THE FABRIC OF 20TH CENTURY FASHION DESIGN. A SIMPLE INNOVATION OF BIAS CUTTING BRINGS FORTH A WHOLE NEW PERSPECTIVE OF THE FEMALE FORM ACCENTUATED BY THE ART OF DRAPING.


S

he shunned the limelight of the fashion design stardom that came to many couturiers of her time, turning her focus to her specialised work in ‘coup en bias’. Having invented the bias cut technique, Vionnet spent a large part of her career trying to protect her work through copyrights by maintaining authenticity documentation. Although the technique seemed simple, the production of the final garment is preceded by lengthy processes of draping and pinning fabrics before the design could be materialised. It was Vionnet’s initial idea that by cutting fabrics on the bias, it would allow the fabric to be draped to match the curves of a woman’s body and to allow natural fluid motions. This movement is integral to the fashion revolution of the 1920s, which saw the rise of new dress forms as opposed to the constricting corsets that promoted a distorted view of the female form. The bias cut allowed Vionnet to bring forth new designs that integrated comfort and movement, and introduced a new concept of femininity. Utilising materials such as crepe de chine, gabardine and satin, fabrics that were considered unusual in garment making at that time, her final designs were luxurious and sensual. The new technique combined with the odd fabric choices gave rise to the handkerchief dress, cowl neck and halter top, design patterns that have become popular cuts in today’s fashion. A true visionary, Vionnet’s design innovation reflected more than just a new sartorial form but rather something that had deeper meaning in her feminism pursuit. Her garments liberated women from restrictive forms and focused on their well-being and personalities. Her design principles draw inspirations from Greek art where garments reflect the persona of the wearer and not the other way round. This is reflected even in the operation of her couture house, as she became one of the first few women to practice revolutionary labour laws including paid holidays and maternity leaves. After her first fashion house closed after the onset of the First World War, Vionnet returned with a new store in 1923 on the illustrious Avenue Montaigne, that later became referred to as the Temple of Fashion by the high society of the time. The new atelier was an architecture and interior marvel which was a collaborative effort by maestros Ferdinand Chanut, George de Feure and the crystal sculptor, Rene Lalique. At the age of 63, Vionnet finally closed her fashion house at the start of the Second World War. In her career spanning almost three decades, she became known as the ‘architect of dressmakers’, for her work in introducing new approaches to art of fashion design. Her distinctive method of pinning and draping has become an influence for many new modern day designers including Marchesa, Halston, and Azzedine Alaia. The works of these contemporary fashion labels evidently lean towards the works of free flattering form referenced to the original works of Vionnet. After the closure of the atelier, Vionnet continued to mentor and advise other design houses in developing their own works. In 1952, she donated most of her designs to the archive of the Museum of Fashion & Textiles in Paris, where it is still exhibited today. The revered designer passed away on March 2, 1975. The Next Chapter The Vionnet label was acquired by the Lummen family in 1988, who did little with the brand initially and instead focused on accessories and perfumes. In July 2006, Arnaud de Lummen announced the return of Vionnet and promised new collections that would stay true to

Vionnet donated most of her designs to the archive of the Museum of Fashion & Textiles in Paris, where it is still exhibited today. the vision of the original house. With Sophia Kokosalaki as creative director, a debut clothing collection was launched in Spring Summer 2007. After several collections which included designs by Marc Audibet, Vionnet opened a new store at Place Vendome and focused on demi-couture designs. In 2008, Matteo Marzotto and Gianni Castiglioni, acquired the brand and put to work a long-term project to recreate Madeleine Vionnet’s heritage. Today, Vionnet is headed by Goga Ashkenazi, a successful entrepreneur whose business experience spans across diversified industries including oil and gas. She is also currently the creative director of the label, which is now based in Milan. Vionnet now shows ready-to-wear collections, which includes a line of accessories, seasonally at Paris Fashion Week. Vionnet is available at Palmera Fashion in the Ritz Carlton Doha.


76 \ fashionISTA

I Dreamed

A Dream T

Anne Hathaway won an Oscar on her second nomination, confirming her status as one of Hollywood’s brightest acting talents – and an astonishingly powerful singer who “Dreamed a Dream.”

he 30-year-old, who took home the Academy Award for best supporting actress, had already won the Golden Globe for her role as the young mother and prostitute Fantine in the musical adaptation “Les Miserables.” She tried to win over the haters in her Oscar speech but expressed that even with all of the criticism, "I live my life with love. I live my life with compassion. I live my life hoping the best for absolutely everyone, no matter how they feel about me. And when you live that way, it 's amazing how beautiful every day can be."  In New York to promote Les Miserables, the newly married Anne Hathaway, looks stunning and her cropped hair suits her. Married since September last year to Adam Shulman, and having recovered from her disastrous affair with the Italian businessman, Rafaelo Folieri, who was convicted of wire fraud and spent time in jail, Anne is having the best year of her life.

You look stunning with short hair. Thank you. It is what it is for the time being. I feel like this is the first, when it was first cut, as it was growing in, there was a moment where it was about an inch long around and it was this kind of sweet Mia Farrow thing that I really liked. Then it was kind of awkward for a few months, and this is the first cut that I've had since then that I am happy with, but honestly, I don't think about it that much, it's just kind of my hair at the moment. People say that you are every girl's BFF. Nice, that's cool, I love everybody! So I am glad to hear that. Is it difficult to maintain those relationships? I have the most wonderful, wonderful friendships, especially my girlfriends, and I am very lucky, my group of friends from high school. We are all still friends and we get together every few months and have


fashion / 77


78 \ fashion

What about the latest comparison to Liza Minnelli? I m compared to Liza Minnelli? Well she is certainly a bucket full of talent. Wow, that's very flattering. Thank you. She's also just the nicest lady, she's so sweet. This movie is about passionate love. Do you believe in love at first sight? I think that I believe in soul mates, I believe in soul recognition, but love at first sight, I think that it doesn't always pan out and I'm not sure that I believe in the one at first sight, although some people have experienced that, but I do believe that our souls recognize each other on a deeper level than we are conscious of. How did you celebrate your 30th milestone birthday? I threw a costume party, I am on the board of the Public Theatre, so I asked them to let me use Joe's Pub, and I screened the movie Auntie Mame with Rosalind Russell and so we all dressed up as characters from the show and I got drunk and danced with my friends. (laughs) Can you talk about the first time you saw Les Miserable? The first time I saw Les Mis, I was seven years old and my mother was in it playing the factory girl, and different members of the ensemble, and I remember that pretty well, but the first time I really remember connecting with Les Mis, was when I got to see my mother perform the role of Fantine.

dinner together, and we are all still very up to date with each other's lives. And I just got married, and although I have been a bridesmaid and I knew what a bonding experience that is, but being a bride and looking around and seeing that I actually had a guy, I called him a bridesmate.

S

How many did you have? even. I have a lot of friends. So to be surrounded by that kind of love and some of my friendships date back to like the day I was born, and most of my bridesmaids I've been best friends with for twelve years. To have that level of understanding, and shared history, we've all grown up alongside each other and helped each other grow and stay rooted for each other, and held out faith for each other when we stumbled. I know they have for me. So yeah, my friendships are an incredibly important part of my life. Does it feel different being married? It does, in a way that I didn't realise that I was aching for it. This is a huge year for you. Thank you for saying that. And I can say with absolute assurance that 2012 has been the best and greatest year of my life.

How much did you want this role? A whole lot. I wanted to be involved in the film because my mother played the part, I always kind of thought that this is her role and untouchable so I was very familiar with all the other parts. I actually never considered singing I Dreamed A Dream, but when I found out that that was the only role that I was up for I just thought, okay great, then I want to play Fantine. (laughs) You have come a long way from The Devil Wears Prada to here, what have you learned and your roles are getting more serious. I don t know where to begin. What have I learned? My only regret from The Devil Wears Prada was, I felt so insecure being in the company of actors I was in, that I didn't let myself enjoy the experience. I learned from that experience that you need to fight through that feeling, you need to take stock of where you are at and even if you don't know that you've deserved it or earned it, enjoy it. I think I enjoy a greater degree of trust in my life, well I know I enjoy a greater degree of my trust than I had at that time, but I certainly enjoy a greater degree of trust in my work, and it's so wonderful when you can, cause you wait for the right project, you wait for the right connection, and then you find it with a director, and then you can just give everything you have to them. And David Frankel was one of the directors that taught me that there are people out there worth trusting.

(Sian Edwards / The Interview People)


fashion / 79

Spotlight on regional designers

Fashion Forward Dubai BY debrina aliyah

private initiative to bring together the best of Middle East design talents, Fashion Forward Dubai (FFWD) has big dreams. Keen on creating a platform similar to fashion councils in established fashion cities like New York and London, FFWD will be holding its inaugural session this month, 2013, with a series of panel talks and catwalk presentations. But what underlies this ambitious project is the challenge to encourage regional designers to think big and progress to the international arena. Bong Guerrero, CEO of FFWD tells us that education and the willingness to learn is the most important element. What is the main objective behind FFWD? This is basically a facility project to serve as a platform to magnify our own designers. We have to be honest that we are not a mature market yet like London or NY and we need to work on it. Middle East is an autonomous market by itself and there is no reason why our own designers and labels cannot be the heroes of our region. Looking at the development of this region as an emerging market, we are young and have lots to learn in all perspective of the fashion industry. FFWD was incepted to take on the challenge, create an opportunity and a platform to take the industry to the next level.


We will have international buyers coming in and for this first time, they will observe and educate. What are some the exciting events that will be taking place during FFWD? The response since the announcement of this project has been very encouraging. Everyone is very excited and we are getting a lot of support both internationally and regionally. We will be bringing in international experts, heavyweight fashion personalities, and academic partners for panel discussions and forums. These educational sessions are to engage and help provide an avenue for regional designers to learn about the whole fashion process. We are taking a fashion council-like approach to teach designers about buying cycles and branding by having these experts to speak and to inspire. There will also be runway presentations by 18 selected regional designers who have made a name for themselves in the Middle East. And of course, there will be pop up stores, fashion cinemas, and social events to make it a fashion destination for the regional fashion set.

A lot of designers from this region start off as couture-skewed labels, offering bespoke designs and services. The notion of ready-to-wear is very new to them, and perhaps this is because we are at an infancy stage for manufacturing possibilities in this region. To progress, we have to move to a new concept especially now, where your designs need not necessarily be manufactured in your own backyard. The ME market is also dominated by global fashion brands and we hope that FFWD will eventually help put regional designers on par with international brands.

How do you think FFWD will promote the growth of the fashion design industry in the Middle East? We will have international buyers coming in and for this first time, they will observe and educate. This will be part of the forum panels where they can educate the regional designers on what they are looking for in terms of designs, budgets, seasonal plans and marketability. From this first session, perhaps they will start buying when our designers rise up to the occasion to meet their demands.

How will FFWD grow after this? What' s next? These efforts will be ongoing and we are hoping to make FFWD a biannual event in April and October according to the fashion calendar. We are looking at all kinds of possibilities and to potentially woo other cities in the region to become the host but at the moment Dubai seems to be most infrastructure-ready with an international appeal. Familiar regional fashion stars including Ayesha Deepala, Furne One, Rami Al-Ali, Essa, Ezra, Dina JSR, Emperor 1688, Golkar Couture, Michael Cinco and Tahir Sultan will be presenting their collections at FFWD. In partnership with Starch, a non-profit organization that helps launch emerging Lebanese designers, four new talents, Celine Der Torossian, Bashar Assaf, Hussein Bazaza and Sevag Dilsizian will also be showcasing their collections.

What do you think are the main obstacles facing fashion designers/ inspiring designers in this region?

To attend FFWD, register on www.fashionforward.ae to be issued day passes by FFWD. This is an industry event and passes will be issued by discretion of organisers. FFWD will be taking place from April 26-29, 2013 in Dubai.


Inspired by Life and colour By DEBRINA ALIYAH

The allure of the Middle East as a region for new opportunities have progressed beyond brick and mortar industries, generating a new wave of creative talents that are now based out of this once dusty desert region.


T

he growth of the fashion industry, while dominated by Arabesque-skewed designers, also gives rise to contemporary design works by many expats who are inspired by the unique metropolitan mix. German-born Nadine Arton, the founder of Glam On You fashion label, moved to Dubai seven years ago and fell in love with the multicultural environment. "I found Dubai, reflective of my own cosmopolitan style and was inspired to create a brand that took the best from the melting pot and put them together to encompass an overarching Middle Eastern perspective."  Based out of the fast-paced city, Nadine designed collections that were uniquely feminine and glamourous, something that truly fit into the lives of women living in Dubai. In less than five years, the label is now carried in stores all over the Middle East. What is the main inspiration behind your label? Why did you decide to venture into fashion design? I was immersed in design and fashion as a child as my family worked in the industry. I started by designing and making my own dresses and these caught the attention of my family and friends. I often got complimented on my works and eventually, word got out. Each collection has a different mood and theme and that in particular is what inspires and keeps me focused. I am so passionate about fabrics and colour that I can easily get carried away. People, places and nature, inspire me. Everything that has colour and is full of life can inspire me. How do you define the modern woman of Dubai and how do you include this in your designing process? The woman who embraces GlamOnYou subtlety stands out from the

crowd, conveying effortless style, wherever she goes. My designs embody this through the use of a wide variety of fabrics, from silks to cotton and modern garments as jerseys, and a broad palette of colour whether its neon, dark grey or light pastels. Tell us about the three different lines produced under your label. The three lines under the label are the Seasonal Collection, the Resort Collection and the Little Miss Collection. Every season I design a collection that fits the time of year and brings new trends to the Middle East using inspiration from my travels and the beauty of nature. For example, the Spring Summer 2013 collection draws inspiration from the cities in which we live. The collection is strong and plays homage to a metropolis, you will see strong lines and silhouettes and bold colours. The Resort Collection features a diverse collection of kaftans, dresses and swimwear, ideal for chilling at the beach side, lounging at the pool side or relaxing at a glamorous holiday hotspot. The Little Miss Collection is a children's collection for little girls featuring chic and playful dresses inspired by the women's collection, ideal for fashion-forward kids. How do you think the regional fashion industry will grow in the next five years? A challenge for smaller independent brands is to establish an identity in this crowded marketplace as traditionally shoppers in the region have gravitated towards global brands that they recognise. Recently we have seen that our target clientele are moving away from the mainstream brands and supporting independent labels by seeking out more unique pieces which has benefited us as a company and I think this movement will continue to grow in the next five years.


runway report / 83

Strictly Decorative

Elie Saab, for his Autumn Winter 2013 collection, envisions a woman that is strong and mysterious, harping on androgynous cuts and masculine tailoring. Day looks consists of crepe satin jumpsuits, high-waisted trousers, and sheer silk chiffon blouses, all anchored by clean lines. The colour palette of black and white is presented in matte fabrics and accentuated by equally mysterious hues of navy, and petrol blue with a touch of chartreuse yellow. The graphic lines, key to this season's creations, are presented with transparent and shapely cut-outs, and intricate embroideries. The collection also saw a crossover of Elie’s couture influences in the form of decorative materials including mohair, velvet, broderie and sequins.


84 \ runway report

Front Row Musings By Lynette Cowie

Being privy to Paris Fashion Week's shows, street style and people-watching sidewalk cafĂŠ is like standing on a giant-sized fast forward button.


86 \ fashion


runway report / 87

It's

the high life! The three tiered fashion podium of the globe, on which Paris stands the tallest. Look down and you might just miss it or, more excruciatingly, fall from pace-induced dizziness. The highly heralded fashion-forward Parisian pavements live up to their bustling reputation as industry’s innovators, media initiators and the intrinsically stylish set, all adopt Paris as their bi-annual catwalk stage. The energy behind March's autumn/winter forecasting events, held mainly in and around the stark winter gardens of Jardin des Tuileries, seem to make it onto everyone’s red pouted lips, if not captured through their equally omnipresent camera lens. One need only throw together a particularly stylish outfit, or adorn the latest revered designer piece, to be knowingly eagle-eyed by fashion paparazzi, eager to capture a familiar face, shoot a unique blog post or seize a copycat idea to share among friends worldwide. Speed is of the essence though, as the show’s guests seem coyly rehearsed to quicken their stride as they strut their well-appointed heels and naked-legs towards the catwalk's secure entrance; pausing only momentarily, ever so nonchalantly, for photographers to snap their painstaking, keenly crafted ensemble. For which, I hasten to add, they no doubt hope to be very well photographed.

The pitch reaches a feverish pace, where celebrities such as Nicole Ritchie and Jessica Alba go an intoxicating visual transportation.

Once inside a show, the pitch reaches a frantic and feverish pace, as in the case of the Valentino Prêt-à-Porter showing, where celebrities such as Nicole Ritchie and Jessica Alba join guests in an intoxicating visual transportation into pilgrim culture, with floral embroideries, scalloped edge detail, all accented with the season's standard black and white. There's a very familiar sense of yearning for these designer pieces, as one is catapulted from the focus of one’s own outfit, to the sight of the collection's opulence and luxuriousness. It presents reason enough to put all of one s weight behind making late 2013/14 an accelerated reality. Perhaps though, these racy catwalkathons distract us from pausing long enough to notice the fashion savvy buyers, private clients and media, who slip quietly behind the architecturally decorated doors of the Parisian showrooms. Behind the city's many unassuming pavement entrances, designers such as Sandra Mansour personally welcome their guests, encouraging otherwise mute show onlookers into speaking the language of beautifully bespoke pieces of craftsmanship. Sandra illustrates how her artistic background and Lebanon-based informal training, alongside Elie Saab, has culminated in her dyeing the collection's subtle colours, then designed and manufactured in her Beirut workshop, to complement the cultural sensitivities in and around the Middle East. Only in touching and taking in her designs, does one truly appreciate the greatness of such a young, keenly adaptive designer, and one realises that workplaces such as these are perhaps the wheels that keep turning behind The City of Light's (“La Ville-Lumière”) effervescent persona. For what felt like the briefest moment in time, I stood tall at the epicenter of Paris's fashion-chic podium, keenly aware that a Sandra Mansour garment could well make a fitting trophy.


GLAM / BEAUTY

APRIL 2013

01

03

New summer fragrance from Cavalli

Revlon’s Ultimate ColorStay suede lipstick

As summer draws nearer, Italian house Cavalli has unveiled a new fragrance inspired by turquoise water, azure skies and glamourous nights in the Mediterranean. Acqua introduces a delicate blend of lily of the valley and jasmine resting on sensual musk. The colour of Mediterranean water, the new bottle was given a gold colour stopper decorated with a band of animal print.

Revlon introduces a one-step lipstick that lasts for up to 16 hours and gives lips a velvety, suede look that looks AND feels good! It contains a lip ingredient complex of Shea butter, Vitamin E and Aloe that provides instant moisture to lips - so lips look hydrated, not dry, flaky or dull. Using Revlon’s ColorStay technology, it provides hours of food-proof wear with even application for full, creamy colour coverage. And with 14 on-trend shades to choose from, it’s the perfect mix of fashion and function!

04

Revelation de Chanel

Chanel has been coming out with a series of mini-releases this spring-to-summer. One is called Revelation de Chanel and features several glossimers (glossy lip glosses) and a new nail polish called Taboo. It’s a glorious vibrant purple metallic. There is a rich deep purple base that is infused with an iridescent red plus sheen loaded with micro sparkles of silver, blue and purple. It’s a stunner and shines bright in sunlight.

02 Sephora’s brow-tamer

Trends on the runway this season are all about eyebrows, ranging from thick and well-groomed to defined. To give the eyes a unique look, Sephora is launching a complete kit to shape, structure, groom, fill and define eyebrows. This smart all-in-one tool box contains tweezers, a brow brush, an angle brush, two powders and setting wax. Available in 3 different colour kits.

05

Kilian readies new Asian-inspired fragrance

The new summer fragrance by luxury perfumer Kilian is a tribute to Asian tales, from China and Japan in particular. Flower of Immortality from the Asian Tales line celebrates the peach blossom, an important symbol in China since the plant is believed to “have the power to bewitch the human soul and to make it immortal,” explains Kilian. The perfume has top notes of white peach, carrot and iris with blackcurrant buds and rose. The fruity-floral blend has base notes of Tonka bean and vanilla.


06

EstéeLauder brings the bronze

This summer’s must have for a great glow is the ‘Pure Colour - Bronze Goddess’ Illuminating Powder Gelée range from Estée Lauder. The innovative tri-blend liquid-powdergel formula goes beyond face powder to give you a sexy, sophisticated glow. The perfect mix of pigment and pearls give a multi-reflective finish. It smoothes on as an all-over soft sheen and builds for luminous pearl highlighting.

07

Tom Ford for the Middle East

08

Tom Ford has gone on an Oriental adventure with his new frankincensebased scent called Sahara Noir, using the history and culture of the region to build an impressive new scent specially designed for the Middle East. The fragrance opens with bitter orange, sweet oasis grasses and Levantine cypress. The heart is composed of frankincense that is offset with cinnamon, Egyptian jasmine and Moroccan rose. Sahara Noir finishes with cedar and vanilla tones.

Sally Hansen Complete Salon Manicure

Everyone loves a salon manicure and with the new range of Sally Hansen polishes, you can achieve it at home. Formulated with three proprietary time-released, protecting shine enhancers, the range delivers lasting shine - the closest you can get to a gel effect without a gel manicure. The new precision brush was developed exclusively and is rounded to fit the curve of your cuticles and is perfectly shaped to hug the contours of your nails.

09

Dior introduces their take on BB cream

The new ‘Diorskin Nude’ BB crème provides the benefits of skincare and makeup in a fresh and airy formula. Enhanced with mineralised floral water and a blend of antioxidants, the skin is moisturised, smoother, protected and corrected with sheer coverage. Available in a range of shades to match every skin tone, the complexion is illuminated with a unique, fresh glow and dewy finish.

10

Essie 2013 Resort Collection

If Essie’s goal is to help banish the winter blahs, then they are off to a great start with their Resort 2013 Collection of these four happy and colour saturated hues. With a mix of crème and jelly finishes, as well as a nice selection of brights and/or aquatic tones, these four shades manage to perfectly capture the essence of the warmer weather to come.


GLAM / BEAUTY

APRIL 2013

Beauty trend: Clinique launch CC cream

Chanel unveils Hong Kong beauty collection Chanel has released a new line of metallic beauty products inspired by one of Asia’s financial and cultural hotspots. To celebrate the new Chanel store at Hysan Place, the brand’s largest boutique in Hong Kong, Chanel has released an exclusive new capsule collection inspired by the city’s contrasts from deep browns to brilliant whites. “Exclusive creations for eyes and nails are infused with a metallic glow, evoking the lights of the city as they reflect in the waters of the China Sea,” say the brand. A deep chocolate and red nail varnish with a metallic shimmer was named Western Light. The second nail shade, Eastern Light, “evokes the modernity of Hong Kong with a bold shade of opaque white,” according to Chanel. Peter Philips, who has recently announced he will be standing down as Chanel Beauty’s creative director after five years with the brand, suggests mixing the two tones for an elegant French manicure. The palette consists of five golden blendable eyeshadows designed to replicate the colours of the city. The Pearl River tones ranges through gold, beige, intense peach and deep brown, with a silver white highlight tone to open the eye and brighten the face.

Skincare company Clinique is the latest brand to jump on the CC cream trend, with the new product set to hit stores this spring. ‘Colour Control’ or CC creams have been one of the beauty industry’s biggest growth products, growing from a South Korean skincare trend into a global phenomenon. CC creams can be used independently or with a foundation, and provide a mix of colour correction, protection from UV rays, and moisturising ingredients. Like the closely related BB (beauty or blemish balm) creams, CC creams moisturise and deal with blemishes, but also provide more significant coverage and even tone. Last fall cosmetics brand Olay launched its first CC cream, and now Clinique has joined the multitasking skin cream trend, with the launch of a Moisture Surge CC Cream SPF 30 Hydrating Colour Corrector. Clinique’s new offering aims to hydrate and protect the skin (with an anti UV ingredient), while also providing a cosmetic colour correction effect. There are six shades to offer a range of options for different skin tones.


Marc Jacobs releasing Sunshine Edition Summer is drawing nearer and like many other perfume brands, Marc Jacobs has launched a collection of summer fragrances. From March, three lighter versions of the brand’s fragrances Daisy and Lola will be available as “Sunshine Editions.” According to the brand, these three limited-edition summer versions of the fragrances, inspired by “sun-kissed pleasures,” are full of “vibrant bursts of colour for an instant boost of happiness.” Daisy Sunshine and Daisy Eau So Fresh Sunshine were created by Harry Fremont. The first has notes of red currant, guava, juicy mandarin, lily of the valley, violet and lychee and the second is a combination of strawberry, apple blossom, pink grapefruit, jasmine petals, day lily, rose and violet leaf. Calice Becker was the nose behind Oh, Lola! Sunsheer, with extracts of raspberry, wild strawberry, pear, peony, magnolia and cyclamen with hints of vanilla, sandalwood and tonka bean. This collection will be available from March from all authorised Marc Jacobs retailers.

Burberry unveils Body Tender fragrance London-based luxury brand Burberry has revealed a new scent, Body Tender, with a campaign starring model of the moment Cara Delevingne. A Burberry model since 2011, and the face of Burberry Beauty ever since, Cara Delevingne was shot by famed fashion photographer (and regular Burberry collaborator) Mario Testino for the campaign visuals and video. The shoot on the River Thames (in front of the famous Houses of Parliament) shows the model relaxing on a boat in pink sunlight, wearing one of the British brand’s famous trenchcoats. “Understated and feminine” according to the brand, the new scent is a lighter flanker version of the iconic Burberry Body perfume. The fragrance opens with lemon, apple, English rose and white jasmine over a cashmeran, amber and musk base. “Burberry Body was always about creating something that captures all the different characteristics of the Burberry girl. With Body Tender, we wanted to explore and bring out the softer, more playful sides of her -- capturing this light femininity in the scent as well as the campaign,” said the brand’s Chief Creative Officer, Christopher Bailey. The fragrance is launching this month as an eau de toilette in 30, 60 and 85ml jewel-like bottles designed by Bailey himself. It will also be available as a 60ml Body Tender Milk, a lightweight body lotion spray designed to leave the skin “soft, smooth and scented.”


SPECIAL Events / 93

Thinking hats By Abigail Mathias

W

HAT MAKER Sophie Papiernik IN ONE OF HER HATS

AISHWARYA RAI BACHCHAN WEARING SOPHIE'S HAT

hen it comes to hat design, Sophie Papiernik is clearly in a league of her own. Maison Sophie Papiernik is one of the few remaining couture hat houses left in Paris, a craft that is becoming elusive in modern times. “Hat fashion is more authentic than traditional couture. Thus, seasonality is the starting point of my hats. Then comes the idea, the theme (for example, each year for the Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe, I create a model on the theme of bestiary) and drawings,” says Sophie. Maison Sophie has an entire team of artisans whom she works with. “Cutting, embroidery, sewing and ornaments teams faithfully reproduce my ideas. I then adjust each model to the demands of my clients or events they will dress for, such as the races.” Not long ago, Swiss watch brand, Longines asked Maison Sophie Papiernik to hat noted film actress and the former Miss World, Aishwarya Rai Bachchan, for a special racing event. Recalling the experience, Sophie says, “It was an exceptional day for me. Having a beauty like Aishwarya wearing my hat, was a huge honour for all the hard work from put in, not just by me, but by my team as well.”  The team designed a lovely sun hat, for what was an already bright day. The team began working on hat designs two months prior to the prix de diane event in Chantilly, where the celebrity was to attend. Sophie explains that they worked on a number of options to please the star. “We created 30 different hats, besides the one Aishwarya finally selected.” Sophie recalls, “At one point Aishwarya Rai Bachchan asked me to unstitch a part of her hat which I did immediately. It was a hand-made haute-couture embroidery made in Paris in our workshop. She took that embroidery with her. The next day, during her appearance in the VIP enclosure, she had this embroidery sewed on her tum-

my. I immediately realised that she was pregnant and was touched by this.” Sophie is excited to see the interest in hats in Doha. This is her second exhibit so far. Most visitors were seen intrigued by her handiwork. She says, “Qatar has many upcoming fashionistas. I am in touch with two stores and a sponsor in Doha.” She shows off a special hat made with falcon feathers which is on exhibit for the races in Qatar. She adds, “I would like to set up a workshop in Doha to manufacture a hat which does not exist anywhere in the Middle East and exhibit and sell my head attire to the luxury department stores here. Sophie has designed hats in the UAE as well. This was in conjunction with Esmod Paris. “It was a wonderful experience, she says. “Manufacturing by hand, as we do for our Parisian clientele is a rare art form. I would be delighted to teach this to budding artists in Doha as well,” concludes the hat maker.

Fashion at the races  held in conjunction with the 22nd annual Qatar International Equestrian Festival was held last month and saw the best of fashion in Doha with more than 114 women participating and competing against each other for the competitions held during the event. The prizes for the best dressed lady and the best hat were given away by H.E. Dr. Sheikha Aisha bint Faleh al-Thani and Juan Carlos Capelli Vice President and Head of International Marketing of Longines. Longines  involvement in the field of equestrian sports included a line-up of events that took place at QREC.

winning ladies Best dressed lady 1st Place : Mariel Quintana 2nd Place: Maria Navas 3rd Place Emma Sayer

Hat Contest 1st Place : Emilia 2nd Place: Alina


94 \ AROUND TOWN

Celebrating French cuisine Samy Vischel, Area Manager Fauchon Middle East, is a happy man. Not only has his restaurant in Doha won the best retail shop award for the year, it will also soon celebrate 20 years in Qatar. The brand has just renovated its flagship store in Salwa Road. Its modern décor echoes the emblematic colours of the brand - pink, black and white with shades of gold and silver. The boutique café as a central kitchen, a special lunch counter and pastry lab and serves customers the company’s key French gourmet specialty products including Fauchon’s famous pastries, with its signature éclairs and mouthwatering macaroons. Besides this, customers can also select from a wide range of confectionary gifts and fine groceries, perfumed teas as well as a pastry and bakery range. Vischel explains, “The Fauchon brand was created in 1886 by Auguste Fauchon. It soon became the most fashionable store in Paris and a symbol of French luxury.” With a presence in 42 countries worldwide, the Fauchon brand is now planning more new openings in the Middle East. We have made our Salwa store more trendy and glamourous.” Commenting on the opening, Fauchon’s Director General, Nasser Kalla, says, “This is indeed a moment of celebration for us and we would like to invite everyone in Qatar who seeks an enchanting encounter with French gastronomy to walk in through our doors. Fauchon arrived in Qatar in 1994 and since then we have had one goal, and that is to offer clients our time-honoured expertise in creating the freshest and most delectable delights.” He adds, “We are not in a hurry to open many outlets. Instead we make sure quality is there from day one. Qatar represents 3% of the total sales of Fauchon worldwide which is a great thing for us and proves that this is an important market for us.”


Perfect

polish By Kirsten Mclachlan

Images by Robert Altamirano

It is great to have a manicure at the salon, but what do you do if you don't have the time for your regular polishing treat or if you want to maintain your manicure in between appointments asks Kirsten McLachlan? Painting your own nails can be a daunting task but here is a step-by-step guide and with a bit of practice you will be polishing perfect yourself.

What you will need: A clean nail file, a wooden stick, a base and top coat colour polish, cotton, nail polish remover.

How to get it right: Firstly we need to prepare the nail for the polish application. File the nail to your desired shape. Use a soft nail file and try to only file in one direction. Keep checking in between the process to make sure it is even.


BEAUTY / 97

After filing gently push back the cuticles. Do this using your wood stick. Don't use a lot of pressure or force the skin back, if it is hard you can leave it for the professional technician. Also try not to scrape the natural nail plate when you do this.

Before you apply the base coat you need to make sure there is no oil on the nails. Using a cotton pad moistened with polish remover, rub it over the nail and over the free edge.

Tip: To make it a little easier, when you are removing your brush from the bottle of polish, always wipe the brush away from you. This way the bead of polish is on the brush the correct way around and there is no need to twist and turn the brush.

Now apply your base coat On your dominant hand. So bend your fingers and hold them in front of you as shown and apply the base. Keep the hand that is applying the polish steady by balancing it on a hard surface. this This takes a bit of practice but will really help you apply an even layer of polish. Always apply your polish in three strokes. One down the centre of the nail, one to the left and one to the right. This will give you an even coverage and avoid streaking on the polish. For your opposite hand, rest the hand on a table to keep it stable and apply the polish as shown in the picture.

Now it's time to apply the polish. Follow the same steps you used for applying the base. Try to leave a small free margin around the nail and avoid getting the polish on the skin. As our model is right handed this means it is harder for her to polish her right hand and this second image shows the best way for the polish to be applied to ensure an even coat of polish that is neat and tidy around the edges.

You can now apply your top coat. Make sure to cover all of the polish edges with top coat so that you are not left with any ridges and of course to keep the polish on your nails longerand don't forget to cover the free edge again!

Tip: If you accidentally polish on your skin you can remove this with a wooden stick wrapped in cotton. Use a little nail polish remover to help with this.

If you want to go in for a French manicure this will take a little more practice but you can do it in time. For this apply the pink base that you prefer first, then apply your white coat. Try to do it in one movement, without taking the brush away from the nail. Again, if you get polish on the skin this can be removed with a woodwooden stick and cotton. If you want a deeper pink then you can apply two coats of pink and then apply the white polish at the tip.

Tip: To prevent the polish from chipping always make sure you cover the free edge to help lock  the polish.

Here is the finished look

Kirsten McLachlan is the Training Manager at AND Trading , ensuring all staff have up-to-date training on the newest , trendiest and highest quality services available in the market. She has been in the beauty industry for 12 years. Kirsten also manages the Nails Boutique Salon inside Zai Mall on Salwa Road where you can see her for appointments on request. She writes a regular column on skin, hair and nail care for GLAM. Join Nails Qatar on Facebook and Twitter @nailsqatar e-mail: training@andtrading.net


Yoga is not about touching your toes; it is about what you learn on the way down. - Judith Hanson Lasater

Focus on the simple things BY JODY RYAN


HEALTH & FITNESS / 99

Our

children will soon be finishing secondary school and off to begin their university education. Along the way, there have been both struggles and achievements. Many hours spent discussing the value of an education with them and how to move forward in it. Having been through it myself, I'm not so sure being able to memorise historical dates or scientific data that they 've often been called to do, will help them in the path that lies ahead. More likely it will be the basic skills they have gained that turn out to be their strongest allies. The ability to read and write, intelligently argue a point, create and validate a fair experiment. Social skills acquired over the years like navigating complex relationships with peers, parents and their teachers. Working well independently, or as part of a team towards a common goal. In the long run, this accumulated knowledge and experience will be tested over and over again and if they have practiced often enough to learn these skillswell, they will help guide them through the many challenging situations and life experiences to come. People often shy away from taking a yoga class due to perceived expectations of having to wrap their feet around their head or succeed in amazing balancing acts or inversions that seem to defy the laws of gravity. They see pictures or videos displaying this sort of thing and decide it's not for them. However, in just about any yoga class you'll find basic common postures that are repeated time and time again, with only a smattering of those peak performance postures interweaved amongst the somewhat

What can truly help or heal us doesn't need to be complicated or seem unattainable. It just needs to be done.

ordinary. Why is that? Most likely because much of the benefit of yoga comes from doing the most simplest of things. I've heard that statement or a slight variation of it, from many yoga instructors who have been teaching for years. Sure it's great to kick up into a handstand for the first time, or find enough flexibility in your hips to move into kurmasana. In many ways it is this working towards some of the more difficult poses that keeps us curious and motivated enough to step onto our mat each day. But just like those tidbits of information we learned in our high school classes that we might use one day, it's the strong and steadfast basics we refine over time that really matter. In the simplest of poses we work on flexibility and strength. Centered through it all we work with our breath, our most sustaining and necessary requirement of life, learning also of its capacity to calm, energize or even help to heal our body. All those cat/ cows that work our spine and our core, or the sun salutations done over, and over, and over again taking our body through almost every motion. What can truly help or heal us doesn't need to be complicated or seem unattainable. It just needs to be done. Perhaps the advice I should give our children as they forge their way into the vast experiences ahead is similar to what I suggest to newcomers to yoga. Focus on the simple things. Don 't forget to practice. Just do the work.


Images by Robert Altamirano

fashion / 101

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blissful journey By Abigail Mathias

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ost spas will promise to offer you a relaxing time. What they can't guarantee, is that you will come away totally rejuvenated. Jaula Spa is one venue that doesn’t disappoint. Located in the Grand Hyatt Doha, this spa provides a wellness journey in which visitors can discover the natural secrets to rejuvenation. Blending the best natural elements from the Middle East with contemporary relaxation practices, this spa quickly puts you on the path to discovering your own beauty and natural power. The word 'jaula,'  or journey, when translated from Arabic, seems like the perfect name for a positive transformation. Before the treatment begins, you are handed a soothing mint, pineapple and cucumber drink which is refreshing and just sufficient to keep you wanting more. My therapist's name is Mukti, which translated from Hindi, stands for freedom. I couldn ’t help but think she is releasing me from the stresses of urban life. The spa offers a whole range of body treatments from facials to complete body scrubs. They inform me that I would be having a calm mind, 60 minute massage.  I was skeptical at first as it was going to take a lot to allow an overactive mind such as mine, calm itself in just an hour. Mukti soon made sure I was deeply relaxed as she gave me what can only be described as a heavenly body massage. The spa uses exquisite products from French spa expert, Anne Semonin, a company that has been in the business for more than 25 years. Before I knew it, I was given a gentle nudge. "You were in deep sleep," said a smiling Mukti. Perhaps, I was really tired, totally sleep deprived, or both. I like to think it has more to do with the fact that Mukti released me from all my aches and pains. It was obvious that she did a wonderful job of making sure it was not just my mind, but my whole body that was calm and comforted.

what's hot: 1 ● 2 ●

Jaula Kids Club

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25 metre, four-lane indoor lap pool

Day Spa with separate sections for ladies and gentlemen. Six spacious ladies suites, four gentlemen s suites and two couple suites, one with a soaking pool. Two of the treatment suites have a private garden and whirlpool, recommended for guests that are enjoying a spa full day or half day package. Inhalation rooms Cold plunge pool Two tranquility pools Infrared room Spa retail boutique

The spa is open every day from 9 am to 9pm


Images by Robert Altamirano

102 \ AROUND TOWN

Sea food

heaven By Abigail Mathias

When it comes to sea food, most people prefer to dine with care. One venue that doesn't fail to impress, is L'wzaar.


The

very setting of the restaurant will leave visitors short of breath. Located in quaint Katara, overlooking a stunning view of the shimmering blue sea, it makes a lovely ambience both by day or night. Here customers can select the freshest pick of the day which is then cooked as per their preferences. Executive Chef, Sonali Fonseka says “When you have a fish market concept, you usually opt for only one cuisine such as Far Eastern or European. It is very challenging to have so many cuisines in one venue. Here we offer Japanese, Indian, Middle Eastern and Far Eastern dishes all under one umbrella.” The restaurant also serves sushi. When it comes to signature dishes, he adds, “We have created a large variety of dishes to soothe the international palette here. You cannot single out any one dish as the best, since we offer such a broad range of dishes. We have about 10-12 signature dishes, these include mouth watering prawns cooked in different styles. We have Maki California, a delectable tempura of prawn. Our lobster Thermidor is also a killer dish,” he adds. This French dish is where lobster meat is mixed with a creamy, cheesy, mustardy sauce, and then stuffed back into the shell to be browned in the oven. The lobster is imported from Oman. Thanks to the heavy demand, L wzaar often has a long waiting list for reservations, especially on weekends. The chef says, “We purchase three tons of fish a month. This level of consumption is seen nowhere else in Doha. The local hammour (a big favourite) is brought 100 kilos on a daily basis. During the week, we average around 650 kilos and we top that on weekends. We have gotten used to the high rates of consumption and have been lucky to have such a demand from the beginning.” The grilled hammour fillet or the mussels in white sauce with cheese, are huge favourites with guests. 12 different nationalities provide an international flavour to the busy kitchen. “We have a large team here who provide authentic touches to the dishes from around the world. Over 50 staff work in the kitchen, while 60 people work in the service area since we generate a large number of guests,” says the chef. In keeping with a fresh food experience the restaurant’s open market is always buzzing. The chef says, “Though we have set styles of cooking, if someone says they want more garlic or more spice to a dish, we cater exactly to their requirement.”  A number of fish tanks grace the walls of the restaurant. The chef says, “This is primarily a family restaurant and aims to be very casual. We don' t adorn the plates with a lot of embellishments. Instead we concentrate on the quality of the product.”  With such an ardent following, one wonders if there are plans to recreate the uniqueness of L’ wzaar. Chef says, “There is a big demand to open a branch of L ’wzaar in London. People are also inviting us to Kuwait and Bahrain. Most places want to have something like this in their own cities,” says the chef, adding, “Our main strength is that 60-70% of our meals are local fish. Of course certain things such as clams and salmon are imported freshly from abroad.”  When it comes to his favourite dish, he says, “I prefer to eat simple. A grilled hammour is so juicy and healthy. It is truly unbeatable and even better than sea bass, which is more expensive.” 


Show stoppers Paule Ka SS13 collection


Show stoppers Paule Ka SS13 collection


Show stoppers Paule Ka SS13 collection



GLAM April 2013