I SSUE3
Editor in Cheif Mariel Bennett
Creative Director Jordan Romanoff
Contributing Fashion Editors
Holly Alymore | Federica Manca | Fydez Tan
Contributing Editors
Alicia | Will Blakely | Nicolette Diava | Sasha Ezquerra Monserrat Macver | Emmanouelle Sophia Melliou | Savannah Mercer Stephanie Toms | Andy Romanoff | Zan Romanoff Dianelle May Willis
Photographers
Mariel Bennett | Andy Romanoff | Jordan Romanoff | Zan Romanoff
Contents Style Fydez ............................... 1 Studying Abroad ..................... 7 Golden Rules ............................ 9 Basic Pieces .............................. 11 Classic and Smart Tips ......... 15 Make Up Tips .......................... 19 Everything Fabulous ............. 23 Mixed and Mastered .............. 25 A New Androgynous Elegance..................................... 67 Resoconto stilistico e raschiato di Parigi e Milano Confusa .. 69 Girls Who Like Didion........... 75 Daedelus: Bespoke .................. 79 Winter’s End ............................ 81 Juj Interviewed ....................... 87 Amidst the Carnage ............... 89
Cover Shot on Location at the High Line Park
Letter from the Editor Working on the third issue was a pivotal experience for the DMM team. It provided us with an opportunity to meet new people, discover new ways to make garments and accessories work together, and a new found ability to fully analyze this season’s collections as a whole rather than putting our focus on any individual designer. With this new outlook came a need for a freshness that could only be implemented through a reformatting of our layout. In this issue we are working with eight different fashion bloggers from all over the world. We let the content from their
interviews act as a guide for the styling and subject matter for our shoots. In addition, we gain insight into their personal senses of style as we continue our discussion about what makes a contemporary stylish girl. There seems to be the a general consensus that we need to reorganize our wardrobes as the we finally break away from the harshness of Winter. We focus on how Spring is an occasion for us to realize that being stylish is not about being able to buy the current ‘it item’ of the season, it is rather about personal style and how to wear what you already own.
In our shoot Mixed and Matched, a dream like and whimsical narrative about a girl who dreams of Spring, we weave together fashion, music, and fine art. Each outfit is based on a song and each look and song acts as the inspiration for a collage. While styling each look we discovered that this season’s trends are not groundbreaking ones: bold colors shown in color blocking, stripes, shades of blues, pinks, reds, or orange; neutrals and whites; patterns and prints; a touch of homemade with lace, fringe: the hippie chic vibe; denim, pants suits, or florals. But that is a good thing, it gives us space to explore the contents of our closet. This is not to say that this season’s trends are not strong; saying that would be a lie. This seasons trends are well constructed and cohesive. They emphasize natural elements but do not fail to celebrate color in any way. There is a balance that allows for this seasons collections and
trends to act as sturdy guides to our own experimentation. With this in mind rediscover pieces that have been lost in your closet and get rid of all of the items that are holding back your style. Spring is about rebirth. Your wardrobe does not have to be made up of all new store bought looks, all it has to do is be enhanced by a few new well constructed garments or accessories that will last you all season.
Nicolette Diava Alicia M
Location: Canada What you do: High School Student Blog URL: iwoulddieforfashion.tumblr.com/ Current fashion/style/make up obsessions: I bought myself an amazing curler recently, and am obsessed with curling my hair What were you like as a child: I was apparently a very clean kid, and would never get dirty. I played with my Barbies a lot, I loved to dress them up! Has that had an effect on your style: I consider my style very clean and classic, and I think that just came from me being a very neat child
Location: Canada What you do: I’m a student Blog URL: jadore-.tumblr.com Current fashion/style/make up obsessions: As of right now I’m obsessed with shoes. Stilettos, wedges, boots, ankle boots, ballet flats. Everything! I love shoes because the right ones can make an outfit amazing! What were you like as a child: I was a very quiet child and was extremely shy. Has that had an effect on your style: I guess so, because I don’t really take big risks, with what I wear. I tend to be safe but I’m still experimenting with my style. So it’s still changing.
Montserrat Macuer
Location: New York City What you do: Full time Art History and Political Science student, half-time intern at the UN Blog URL:audreyhepburncomplex.tumblr.com One of your current fashion/style/make up obsessions: Buying vintage Ferragamo shoes off ebay. They don’t make them like they used to! What were you like as a child: I was an extremely curious child, which meant I would constantly get into trouble everywhere, especially in school. However, I was very girly and loved reading “historical books” like the American Girl Collection. Also, all through elementary and middle school I would pretend to be sick in order to stay home and watch reruns of my favorite shows “Bewitched” and “I Dream of Jeannie.” I thought they were so glamorous! Has that had an effect on your style: There’s a lot of things I normally wear that have not changed from when I was a kid; I prefer bright colors, dresses over pants, MaryJane shoes and Peter Pan Collars. I also think that my childhood obsession with 1960s TV shows has translated into an obsession for clothes of the period.
Emmanouelle-Sophia Melliou
Location: My origin is greek but I moved to Munich and What do you do: I moved to Munich in October of 2010 to study Architecture Current fashion/style/make up obsessions: I’ve secretly dreamt of living like Mrs. Holly Golightly, since I watched Breakfast at Tiffany’s when I was thirteen. And the past years my black Guerlain eyeliner has become a daily need. I also love: What were you like as a child: As a little girl I was too girly, with very long hair and a shrill voice, which still exists! I was pretty spoilt, eating ice-creams and playing all day with my sister. We used to pretend to be mermaids, or watch Sailor Moon, and sometimes to fight. However our favourite game was stealing our parents’ camera and creating photoshoots in their bedroom, it was absolutely funny. I also liked painting on my bedroom walls and making collages and as growing up I created a stronger interest for art and fashion. I particularly remember an article I had read during my secondary school years. It was referring to the autobiography of Diana Vreeland and it captured me so much that since then I started to read more about fashion and to examine the collections. Has that had an effect on your style: My style has been evolving since I was a kid and it will probably keep on doing so for the rest of my life.
Danielle May Willis
Savannah Mercer
Location: Missouri What do you do: I’m a high school senior involved in Theatre. Blog URL: Strokous.tumblr.com Current fashion/style/makeup obsessions: For personal style, I’m in love with faux fur anything. Vests, scarves, hats, etc. I’ve found them to be very versatile and they add an instant upgrade to anything. My makeup obsession has and probably always will be red lipstick. I wear it everyday; it’s kind of like my signature. On style: ‘Experiment! Don’t be afraid to be the first to try something.’ What I was like as a child: Very mature and shy, but very girly. I grew up with two older brothers and played outdoors a lot, but I was never a tomboy. Has this had an effect on your style: It hasn’t really. I only started to develop a “personal” style in the last year and a half. I’ve become more comfortable with doing my own thing.
Location: Canada – British Columbia/Montreal What do you do: I work at a local boutique called Asphalt and attend Okanagan University. “In my spare time I am often painting, writing, and taking photographs.” Blog URL: lavelaundry.tumblr.com Current fashion/style/make up obsessions: Elegant socks worn with high heels/Leather: everything from liquid leather pants, shorts, a skirt, jacket (must have) to a dress/the look of textures, especially when worn together/fur ascents/flowy blouses/crème lace shorts. As far as makeup goes I am a neutrals girl – very basic. I love ivory and nude colors for the eye, with brown mascara, rose colored blush and light lips – I do love red lips though. What were you like as a child: As a child I was very different (sadly) but I have grown to appreciate this now. Has that had an effect on your style: My style was definitely a reflection of everything around me. I spent a lot of time training in an ice rink as I used to figure-skate and did for 14 years. I spent a lot of time traveling and seeing a lot of Canada, which opened my eyes to a range of different art forms. I have always been very artistic as Fine arts are definitely my strong point and a main focus still in my life. I view everything with a clear and open eye, especially when it comes to fashion and art.
wrong sorts of people – it’s a wonder how my Mum put up with me! Has that had an effect on your style: Definitely. When you’ve been around every little clique you tend to pick up so much that adds to both your attitude and style. I think that everything major in your life will influence your style in some way or another. I was always a little mosher back in my rebel days, so there will always be a part of that in me – I doubt I’ll run around sweaty concerts any time soon, but my love for leather and studs will never die! In 50 years time I’ll be sat knitting leather jackets (if that’s possible) whilst listening to the Yeah Yeah Yeahs.
Stephanie T
Location: The south west of England What you do: I’m currently a student, but I write for a selection of niche publications and have a few secret side projects happening that I’ll be able to reveal in the future! Blog URL: cocochic.tumblr.com (fashion editor on Tumblr) Current fashion/style/make up obsessions: I am the queen of monochrome What were you like as a child: When I was fairly young I was always a bit of a loner. I didn’t have many friends and I was bullied quite a lot because of how I looked, which caused me to feel very low. Every month or so I’d make my way into a different clique, in hope that I’d find a group that I actually belonged to, but it never really worked out. This sounds like such a sob story but I really kinda cherish the whole ordeal. I changed my style almost every other week to suit each little group, which helped me figure out who I really was and what my style was. In my teen years I was a huge trouble maker – always out ridiculously late with the
Style tips: This must sound silly, but after being given my first pair of Spanx I could not be without them. If you think you’re having a fat day you just throw on your Spanx and you feel so much better. I wouldn’t advise wearing them on a date though, unless you want to reenact Bridget Jones’ Diary. A girl needs confidence! It’s easier said than done, but I think confidence is often more important that the actual garments in your wardrobe. If you have confidence you can practically get away with anything if you feel good in it! But if you’re lacking in confidence one day, head back to those Spanx.
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Spring is the season where everything comes alive- the flowers bloom, the birds are chirping and the wind warms up. It’s a happy season which is reflected by pastel colors and light fabrics that are worn. For inspiration, let’s turn to Marie Antoinette. Light, childish at times, mutely vibrant, floral, cherished with bows with a little bit of sparkle and extravagance. Layered frocks, full skirts, chiffon and lace tops are the perfect pieces. As for shoes and accessories, have an eye for the adorable! Think of frills and floral brocades. The occasional shimmer of gold should be considered as well. As for makeup, opt for light and shimmer but when in doubt, red lipstick is never out of fashion.
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Opposite Boyfriend Jeans: Current/Elliott; Leather Satchel and Turqupose Ring: Kate Spade Choker Necklace: Lanvin; Gold Heart Necklace: Juicy Couture gold heart necklace Silk Pocket Square: Liberty London; Sunglasses: ASOS; Relaxed Jeans: Edwin Blue Unwashed Pure Color Lipstick in “161 Pink Parfait”: Estee Lauder Above Dress: Rebecca Taylor; Crop Top: Miss Selfridge; Jacket: Valentino Mid Rise Skinny Jeans: Twenty 8 Twelve; Merino Wool Tight: Falke; Ankle Boots: Acne; Boots: Christian louboutin; Bag: Givenchy duffle; Cuff in Silver: Hermes; Hair Bow: Forever21
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Dress: Alberta Ferretti; Lather Sandle: Kenneth Cole Reaction; Bangle: Carolee pearl bangle; Pink Necklace: Eclectic Shock Flower Hair Accessory: Miss Selfridge; Eyeshadow: Dior ‘1 Couleur’ Eyeshadow; Hair Bow: Hershesons
Dress: Jenny Packham; Metal Bangle: Zad; Crystal Earrings: Janis Savitt; Chain Jewelry: Aur lie Bidermann Floral Hair Accessory: B Ella;
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Tank Top: Paprika; Jacket: Black Queen; Taffeta Skirt: Lanvin; Platform Shoes: Givenchy; Beaded Jewelry: Forever21 ‘Rouge Prodige’ Lipstick: Clarins;
Top: Opening Ceremony; High Waisted Shorts: Viktor Rolf; Shoes: Patricia Blanchet; Blue Jewelry: Betsey Johnson Belt: Miss Selfridge; Météorites Illuminating Powder in “Perles D’Or Perles D’Or”: Guerlain;
STUDYING ABROAD A Lesson in UK Fashion
An English style or way of dressing is hard to define, and it only gets more confusing when you specifically look at Londoners. ‘Londoners’ could refer to London’s ‘native’ people, who were born and raised in one of its many conflicting (stylistically at least) areas. Or it could be those that set up their home in London, flocking to the excitement of the capital city for work, play, university or all three. American fashion, particularly that of New York, is a baffling and confusing concept for most English girls. It appears to have a more commercial approach as a whole, selling and marketing clothes to ‘real’ girls, but here in England, London specifically, fashion is sold and marketed to fantasy girls. These girls don’t really exist anywhere other than our heads, elaborate editorials and the occasional catwalk: but we love to pretend to be them. When it comes to style decisions we don’t always get it right. Yet, somehow, we pull if off quite well, even if the concept is just plain wrong. We claim we’re experimenting, we think up elaborate statements about what the outfit says about us as people and sometimes these thoughts go way too far. The English are constantly ‘digesting’ fashion in our own unique way, in such a diverse capital city, it’s hard to ignore. In general, we’ve never been that good at copying trends, we tend to, let’s say... interpret them. This interpretation is often aided by our other sartorial choices, such as music, which seems to be the beginning of every UK subculture (think punk, the 7/8
holly alymore
mods, grunge). Another major influence on style choice is politics and rebellion. We are a rebellious nation, which is possibly best represented in the amazing Vivienne Westwood. Whether her clothes are to your taste or disgust, you cannot deny her talent. This rebellious, anti-establishment, I-don’tgive-a-damn streak every English girl innately carries allows more freedom, less rules: can I get away with a mini-dress at an important meeting if I wear a bowtie? Yes, that surely falls under the category of smart-casual! (Obviously.) Not caring for rules and regulations (who cares if ‘blue and green should never be seen’?) means we can be more daring, the brand becomes irrelevant and the message highly important. And what better message to convey other than ‘I don’t care what you think of me’? (Even though we secretly care deeply for acceptance into social groups and the approval of those stylistically superior. But we could win Oscars for covering that up.) Perhaps this is particularly relevant in major cities such as London because as a nation, we like to think ourselves to be open-minded and less judgemental than most. This was long before our government decided we were ‘diverse’. There is one woman who for me immediately springs to mind when I think of this nonchalant attitude towards opinion and extreme, passionate attitude towards celebrating fashion. I don’t know her name, what she did for a living, in fact the only things
I do know about her are that she’s definitely over 70 and she gets the number 27 bus every Thursday morning from Brighton Station to beyond my college where I depart. If she is the long lost sister of the aforementioned Dame Westwood (which a hint of the Queen about her), I wouldn’t be shocked. She seems to live in brightly coloured, elegant two-piece suits. The more bows the better. The more pearls the better. She still totters slightly in her heels, I’ve never seen her in flats for the two years I’ve been catching that bus, and her make-up wouldn’t look to out of place in an Illamasque advert. Do people stare? Occasionally. Even in Brighton (a city where you can practically get away with anything and go completely unnoticed). But what’s incredible about her is she genuinely doesn’t care. She’s proud of her style, even if it is a little unconventional. And if you avidly believe in the teachings of Miss Luella Bartley (as I do, every girl should read ‘Luella’s Guide To English Style’, even if you’re not English), you will understand that our elders are the greatest style inspiration. When I’m old, I vow to be like the woman on the 27 bus, and I will dye my hair pastel pink. No one will say anything because I will be old and able to get away with it. In general, American clothes are embolic of who the wearer literally is. But here in Britain, our style is part runway, part ourselves and part complete and utter dreamland. We could learn a lot from each other as style nations, and we could both learn from the oh-so-elegantly-immaculate French. The style of individual nations shouldn’t be compared but celebrated in it’s own right. You come to London for the next off-thewall, edgy, revolutionary designer whose exquisite clothes are beautiful, but completely impractical. We are about creating talent, and we are completely anti-fashion in the most fashionable way possible.
GOLDEN RULES Invest in quality not quantity. everythingfab When in doubt, consider simplicity. shakeyourhair Don’t follow trends if they don’t suit you. jadore-
Dress for your body shape. jadoreManners are key. If all else fails, at least you know how to act graciously and like a Lady. iwoulddieforfashion
Be charming, wear your clothes with confidence, and embrace your individual style. shakeyourhair
Remember that there are no boundaries. Life is too short to wear boring clothes. shakeyourhair Style and Grace are timeless. iwoulddieforfashion 9/10
Keep your clothes ironed or pressed. It can really make a huge difference in your overall appearance. strokous Have a go-to-outfit that enfaces your strengths (in my case it is my legs!) for those days that you have no time or cannot seem to find anything to wear. everythingfab
BASIC PIECES Own the closet essentials, which are a white tee, a shift dress, a great pair of jeans and of elegant flats. shakeyourhair If all else fails, go for the Trench coat, white shirt, black trousers look. You can’t go wrong there. audreyhepburncomplex Black pumps are also a must-have in your wardrobe. It’s a perfect last minute i-can’t-findshoes-to-match-this-outfit shoe, because it goes with everything and looks good too. jadore-
Never be without a pair of black ballet flats. strokous 11/12
Wedge sandals. lavelaundry
Of course, every girl should own a LBD, that is a must whatever your age. cocochic Own nude (closely resemble your skin color) heels, I just purchased a pair from Zara! lavelaundry Invest in classic basic pieces, with great quality and excellent cut, that will never go out of style, a nice black blazer, fabulous jeans, a trench coat, a glam shirt/ blouse,etc; and then buy more trendy pieces that are not that expensive, since you are only going to use it for one season. everythingfab
At least one pair of sky high stilettos that go with absolutely everything. I opt for patent black heels. cocochic
Well fitted black jeans, skinny’s. lavelaundry
A nice pair of dark wash skinny jeans are the most versatile and important piece of clothing to own. strokous No wardrobe is complete without a well-fitted simple black blazer. It can instantly make an outfit. jadoreOwn a nice pair of flats that are comfortable enough for walking around the city in, but also work in a more formal environment. Ferragamo’s Vara shoes and Repetto flats are my go-to shoes in this case. audreyhepburncomplex
A baggy boyfriend shirt. You can wear it on lazy days, dates and just a casual day out. Try wearing it as a dress, tuck it into a skirt or pair of trousers – anything! It’s so versatile. cocochic
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A leather jacket – whether it’s real or faux it doesn’t matter, but it automatically toughens up any look. There are countless times when I’ve gone to college in an evening dress, thrown an aviator on over the top and no one ever knew! cocochic For the night wear skyscraper heels. Who said they aren’t made for walking? My secret is to have a pair of elasticated trim flats in my bag. shakeyourhair
Own an oversized double pocket blouse! lavelaundry In winter, a scarf is your greatest accessory. There are so many different ways to wear them and so many various types, that you will always have a different look. jadore-
Black Ray ban Wayfarers sunglasses. Some people think they’re on their way out of the fashion world, but may I remind you that Audrey Hepburn wore them in the opening scene of “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” back in the early 1960s. Instant classic that will never die! audreyhepburncomplex
Classic and Smart Tips An organized wardrobe! I’m investing in a few clothing racks in the near future, as well a mannequin. I think it’s important to be able to see what you actually own. I used to have a huge pile of clothes in my room; needless to say I wasn’t successful getting ready in the mornings. cocochic
Don’t wear too many statement pieces of jewelry at once, for example if your going to wear large dangly earrings, skip wearing a necklace and viceversa. jadoreWhen you match your underwear, you will automatically feel so womanly and sexy. strokous 15/16
If you are not ready to fully embrace a fashion trend, start with some accessories. everythingfab A Lady ALWAYS wears underwear. iwoulddieforfashion Try to look polished every day, as you never know how your day will end up. shakeyourhair
I find it extremely rude when I’m talking to someone, and they start texting. Know your cellphone limits! iwoulddieforfashion
Don’t believe what they say: Black and Navy DO match. audreyhepburncomplex
Develop your own Style! If you don’t know what your style is really about a great way to start is by grabbing a bunch of magazines and do a mood board or a scrapbook and you are going to try a style evolve through your tear sheets. everythingfab Mix textures of clothing, like lace and fur. strokous
Don’t do a mini and a low cut top at the same time. Either one or the other. everythingfab
If your outfit doesn’t look just right, try pulling your hair up. I’ve found pulling my hair up can change an outfit and pull a look together. strokous
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Clean your closet at least 2 or 3 times a year, but don’t ask yourself ‘how many times have I used this or that’ try what I do: I rather ask myself when cleaning my closet, ‘do I want the world to see me with this? Does this piece represent me today? If I see this item on {Pick your style icon} in my case Lauren Santo Domingo, would I like it?’ If the answer is no, take it out quickly. I would rather have three fabulous choices than a closet full of things that does nothing for my style. everythingfab
Make sure when layering that, firstly bottom layers aren’t longer than the top layer and also that you don’t look too bulky. A great way to avoid this is by using a belt, to cinch in your waist. jadore-
Make Up Tips All girls should be able to apply liquid liner neatly. iwoulddieforfashion
Know what color lipstick looks great on you and always keep it in your bag. audreyhepburncomplex
I’ve recently become a fan of blush and bronzer. I think a girl needs at least one or the other in her make-up bag for days when she is looking kind of pale, which is everyday for me. cocochic 19/20
Have a great skincare regime that works for your skin type. cocochic It is important to use moisturizer and lip balm on a daily basis. iwoulddieforfashion
Anti wrinkle cream! I swear by it. Being only 18 people think I’m crazy for wearing it but I have a theory that it could even prevent wrinkles as you grow older – but either way it’s moisturizing and often acts as a great primer before make-up. cocochic
At the end of each day cleanse your face to get rid of make-up and any unwanted oils that have built up on your face during the day. This is a great way to prevent pimples. Jadore-
Have a selection of perfumes and wear them based on your mood or how you WANT to feel that day. If it’s bright and sunny out, wear something like Calvin Klein Eternity (my personal favorite). Feeling sexy? Spritz on Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel. strokous
Own a hair curler. It’s such an easy way to do your hair, especially for a formal occasion. Jadore-
Healthy hair is gogeous hair. Take care of it! iwoulddieforfashion
I rather be overdressed to an event but never overproduced, keep your makeup simple. And stay away from to many color eye shadows. everythingfab 21/22
Full eyebrows are always youthful. If you can pull it not tweezing at all, don’t. strokous
All girls should be able to apply liquid liner neatly. iwoulddieforfashion
Paint your nails. They tie the outfit together and makes it looks polished. Choose a complimenting color and your good to go. And don’t forget your toes! Especially if your shoes are open. Jadore-
Wear black mascara whenever you leave home. shakeyourhair
Everything Fab
Name: Sasha Ezquerra Location: South Florida What You Do: Entrepreneur & Blogger (used to be an executive in a Fortune 500 company) Blog URL: everythingfab.com
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DMM: What were you like as a child? EF: I loved looking at my mother’s magazine that she would bring from her trips to Europe and daydream about what would I wear going to a gala, or traveling the world. I was very theatrical and love dressing up also. DMM: How has this affected your style? EF: I think it gave a sense very early in age of how women with style dressed and how they presented themselves to the world. And how they where always able to maintain their personal style no matter the event they where going to. And overall all the dressing up I did it really allowed me to just have fun with getting dress.
DMM: Being Everything Fab how do you stay so fab and glam? EF: I truly believe in investing that extra time to looking fabulous. Even on those days that I am running around I still take the extra 5 minutes to putting a little bit of makeup, and cute accessory and some nice jewelry. It’s really all about the details that makes the difference for me. And I try to apply the same concept with everything I do from setting a nice table to decorating the house to hosting an event. DMM: Any advice for people who are trying to start a blog? EF: I say just do it! If you don’t have a clear picture of what you want to write about, don’t worry, as soon as you start writing your own blog all your ideas are going to become clear and your going to find your blogging style. My only big tip is choose a name that you really like and it makes sense because even though the style of your posts/blog can evolve with time, you won’t be able to change your name. When writing a post keep it interesting for you, write something that you would actually be interested in reading. I use Blogger to write and love Tumblr for fashion pictures! Blogging has been such a blessing in my life that opened so many new doors to things I always wanted to do. It has also help me connect with so many fabulous people. I totally recommend blogging! DMM: Any last words? EF: Style is not only about how you dress, it is so much more: from the way you decorate your home, to how you host a party, to the way you relate to people. Cultivate your own style in every aspect of your life. Be 100% authentically you in everything you do, and
have fun with it! Invest that extra attention to detail, send that message to the world that you care about you and the universe will treat you in a fabulous way.
A lesson or two from Everything Fab It takes 5 more minutes to look blah or fabulous. Invest that extra time and go for fabulous! The best thing about feeling great with what you are wearing is that you don’t need to worry about it for the rest of the day or night, and just focus on connecting with people and having a great time! A great smile is truly the best accessory!
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Song: Rain Artist: Afta-1 27/28
Shorts: Forever 21 Cardigan: Marc by Marc Jacobs Button Up Rag and Bone Gold Travel Flats: Gap Dress: H&M Necklace: Vintage Belt: Zara
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Song: Lovely Bloodflow Artist: Baths 31/32
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Jacket: H&M Cardigan: Millau Dress: Edun Ankle Boots: Elizabeth and James
Song: Party With Children Artist: Ratatat
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Jacket: Vintage Top: LAmade Pants: Ameircan Apparel Belt: Louis Vuitton
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Shirt: H&M Shorts: Zara
Song: Party Animal Artist: Gucci Mane ft. Hudson Mohawke 39/40
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Upper Left Knit Top: H&M; Denim Shorts: William Rast; Denim Button Up: Gap; Towel: Marc Jacobs; Purse: Marc by Marc Jacobs Lower Left Shorts: LF; Oxford: Ralph Lauren; Gentleman’s Slipper: Steven by Steve Madden;
Song: DirtyDiamonds Artist: EPROM
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Hat: Stairing at Stars Oxford: Marc by Marc Jacobs Shirt: James Perse Ankle Boots: Steven by Steve Madden
Coat: Vintage Scarf: Juicy Couture Blouse: Chanel Jeans: J Brand
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Song: Take Over Control Artist: Afrojack ft. Adam F 47/48
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Longsleeve Top: H&M Tank Top: Gap Skirt: Zara Wedges: Jeffery Campbell Sunglasses: Oliver Peoples
Song: WhenYou Wake Up Artist: Hooky 51/52
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Oxford and flats: Marc by Marc Jacobs Denim Vest: Vintage Gap Jean Shorts: Vintage Levis
Song: Never Leave You Artist: Macca ft. Hosta 55/56
Flowered Button Up: GAP Green Scarf: Gucci Pink Scarf: Gift from trip to China
Cardigan: Marc by Marc Jacobs Dress: Erin Fetherston for Target Bag: Marc by Marc Jacobs Stockings: Agent Provocateur Shoes: Jeffery Campbell
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Song: Girl/Boy Song Artist: Aphex Twin
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Gentelman’s Slippers: Steven by Steve Madden; Dress: R’ogan; Top: H&M
Song: Beautiful Artist: Ferry Corsten
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Opposite Dress: Free People Tanktop: Juicy Stockings: Agent Provocateur Shoes: Jeffery Campbell
Above Dress: Bed Time for Kitties
A New Androgynous Elegance holly aylmore With a global recession still in full swing and the constant stream of news reporting economic doom and gloom, we all need to find an escape. When the present day is dull and the future doesn’t look very bright, the only thing left to do is look back. After the grunge girl of the 1990s and the military girl of the early 2000s, it seems every designer and female is trying to find their inner lady and return to a time of elegance and grandeur. This is not only visible in fashion, but in the returning and rising popularity of tea parties and cupcakes (particularly if they’re Alice In Wonderland or Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette themed). Britain seems to be propelling this trend forward with the upcoming and much talked about wedding of Prince William of Wales and Kate Middleton, but do we really want to return to abiding by the original ‘rules’ of the ‘establishment’ or is that subtle hint of rebellion still there? We wear our personalities on our sleeves (literally) and we are increasingly looking for our clothes to define us. It’s undeniable that girly innocence made a return to the catwalk’s for Spring/Summer 2011: it was chiffon galore at Chloe who always champion the ‘woman-girl’ look, there were pretty tea dresses at Valentino, plenty of white lace at Dolce & Gabbana and an angelic colour palette at Donna Karen. But that much-loved masculine edge which gives it’s wearer a feeling of strength and power is still needed, so maybe the answer lies in choosing to combine elements of both. After all, elegance is a choice of qualities, a graceful and refined beauty. This innocent girl vs military man juxtaposition has been very apparent on the Fall/Winter 2011 runways; think of Chanel’s post-apocalyptic, volcanic, very black, military-booted, princess 67/68
dresses or Loewe’s strong army coats in soft leathers. A girl’s need to dress in a masculine way and yet maintain a feminine identity lies in a sort of elegant androgyny. Phoebe Philo’s latest collection at Celine took inspiration from a ‘luxurious automobile’ and featured wood patterns and block-coloured open coats, which (although there was no pink or chiffon in sight) still holds an understated elegance. The extreme but curved minimalism at Jil Sander carried feminine refinement by using blunt outlines in smooth fabrics. But perhaps a label that has always championed elegant androgyny as it’s signature sums it up perfectly: Calvin Klein, with it streamlined,
unembellished tailoring which still pays careful attention to the shape and outline of a female body. So to find our future style, we look back. And when we don’t wholeheartedly agree with what we see, we combine, incorporate, juxtapose and create. Why not try and be ‘everything’? Why not play the role of a girl and a rebellious tomboy at the same time? Being refined, graceful and elegant no longer means wearing an uncomfortable dress, having afternoon tea on the lawn and behaving like a future princess. Elegance has found a new platform and a new way of entering our wardrobes: an androgynous elegance.
Resoconto stilistico e raschiato di Parigi e Milano Confusa federica manca
Visitata nel vento freddo e sole in volto. Parigi era come una neccesità, volevamo cambiare aria io ed il mio amico Claudio (musicista e portatore di endormofine al contatto del suo corpo). Parigi oh quanto amo l’aria che si respire a Parigi! Un’aria fresca e libera, mi tenevo alle tasche di Claudio, della sua giacca di pelle per il freddo e per l’equilibrio che mi manca, portando nei stivaletti in camoscio tacco 8 cm con lacci frangiati(molto style Minnetonka), portavo la tonalità Rouge Coco 69/70
Muse N°14 de “ Chanel” del rouge coco a levres chanel, la mia amata giacca Sandro, e passavo da tuniche grigie con collant o vestiti a point bianchi e blu, a maglie colorate( style collezione 2011 Prada PE) comprate da Zara che copia come sempre le collezioni Miu Miu e Prada. Si respirava e si vedeva la mostra di Micheal Gondry al Centre Pompidou, dove ci si sentiva cappuccetto rosso in un bosco, ed era magico e la natura si mischiava alla città; Un’altra mostra molto interessante che abbiamo visto
è stata al PALAIS DE TOKYO, perchè volevo vedere la mostra di Larry Clark (regista e fotografo che amo molto) ma a malincuore non c’era più, in compenso abbiamo scoperto una esposizione che ci ha molto colpito di tre artisti geniali « General Idea-Une rétrospective, 1969 - 1994 – exposition”. Una sera a cena avevo agli occhi la vista dell’entrata delle Folies Bergeres che potevo vedere dal vetro diffronte da dove ero seduta, ed ho potuto assistere a una stupenda visione estetica: c’era un ragazzo vestito punk stupendo con giacca di pelle sopra e gambe magre su jeans neri sotto con anfibi, magro e cresta, dunque molto Sex Pistols style; e vicino a lui appoggiata al muro una ballerina in toutu’ di tulle bianco molto ampio che fumava una sigaretta, adoro questi contrasti dove le persone apparentemente diverse si mischiano sulla stessa strada sullo stesso viale, lo stesso muro. Una delle strade più belle di Parigi rimane Rue Cambon, la via con la vera e prima boutique Chanel con le classiche scalinate, e con l’albergo dove spero poter un giorno alloggiare ‘The Ritz’ non è snobismo ma semplicemente è bello, che ci posso fare se è cosi ? in rue cambon vedi di colpo solo eleganza che cammina su gambe fini di donna e di uomini, dita-braccia che da una parte tengono la “Kelly” o “Birkin” Hermes e nell’altra le buste raffinate degli ultimi acquisti, magari proprio usciti da Chanel e dunque con una camelia bianca, e poi una sigaretta, una dopo l’altra come se fossero un’allungamento naturale delle dita. Avevo il fianco sinistro dolente (andare in farmacia in viaggio è una tappa quasi obbligata ogni volta che si viaggia), in questo caso per comprare una crema per dolori muscolari, mi hanno profumato di chanel chance e riempito di essai di profumi maschili. Parigi non era snob questa volta, era vertiginosa
d’affetto, e vetrine piene di trasparenze di seta o camoscio bucato ; da Mc Donald hanno cominciato a vendere birra e maccarons al cioccolato ma nulla a che vedere con Laduree. Il nostro albergo ero circondato da gatti in vitrine e nella sala per la colazione quadri style belle epoque delle ballerina inizio 900 ricoperte di piume, le scale di velluto e il corridoio blu per arrivare alla nostra stanza, con delle splendide finestre con una luce scura perfetta per sembrare più belli e fare foto ; spesso viene sottovalutata l’importanza della luce, la più bella è quella dei bagni, dei fari e dell’alba, la luce artificiale è cosi’ fantascentifica e strumentale.
Opinions su Paris de: -Chloe Dole (mannequin): “ben Paris c’est le luxe, la classe, la culture, la beauté, et hélas les touristes. ; Et l’esthétique des parisiens ne me plaît pas, j’aimerais qu’on soit resté a l’esthétique des années 50 voir même 30, car tout le monde était bien habillé, il n’y avait pas de vulgarité, et le bon goût parisien prenait vraiment tout son sens..auté, et hélas les touristes.”
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-Alex Brunet ( photographe): “la ville de Paris est très agréable et au niveauculturel il y a plein de chose à faire et à voir même si je trouve personnellement que c’est une ville qui ne bouge plus énormément et qui vieillit au niveau culturel, il n’y a pas beaucoup de dynamisme ni de nouveauté sinon pour les parisiens..je le déteste..je les trouve superficiels égoïstes, égocentriques .”
Sono Tornata una settimana fa circa da questa città, ed I miei primi pensieri sono stati “Quanto è verde Milano” e “Che odore artificiale di primavera » spesso viene vista come la città della nebbia, nello smog, della moda ; bè saranno tutte cose vere ma tutto era limpido e fresco, fin troppo visto che le cose più « calde » che avevo erano un maglione e la mia nuova giacca Marc By Marc Jacobs , tutte le altre cose erano molto estive perché il tempo era un’inganno, un’inganno piacevole i primi tre giorni e un freddo tiranno con il sole gli altri. Era un miscuglio di malori, anestesia e musica, e
persone dolci, molto più dolci che a parigi, si i milanesi sono più gentili e lo stile non ha un’importanza fondamentale come al contrario si possa pensare, non so se sia positivo, ma di sicuro d’ha meno problemi di ansia a persone come me che la sera prima di uscire si cambiano 20 volte di seguito a cercare il giusto abbinamento . Una delle sequenze più estetiche vissute quella settimana è stata l’aperitivo per strada , infatti era il periodo de ‘la settimana del mobile’ un’evento in cui molti negoziboutique sono aperti alle persone e offrono da bere cocktail, vino, spuntini vari ecc… abbiamo dunque giustamente non rifiutato una raffinata bevuta mentre aspettavamo il tram per raggiungere un posto decadente e pieno di ratti per la location di un video musicale, siamo saliti col bicchiere in mano ed era come bere in un lungo serpente verde che ci trascinava su di se e conduceva il nostro sangue alle cadenze dell’alba.
Brevi pensieri du Milano secondo: -Beatrice Zanantoni (cantante-musicista): “Che dire..Milano è difficile da descrivere ci trovi di tutto, la gente in generale però se fai un giro per le vie piu conosciute si veste un po allo stesso modo ; le ragazze della nostra età molte vanno in giro come delle marche ambulanti, e cose brutte cosi solo per il gusto di far vedere che sono di marca… Dovendo definire il moi qtile posso dire che se fosse per me mi vestirei sempre con maglioni anni 60 e 80 e maglie lunghe colorate: c’è un negozio molto carino in duomo che si chiama humana (http://www.humanavintage.it/) ed è in duomo, io vestirei sempre cosi con quei vestiti. “
-Francesco De Leo (musicista- cantautore): “è brutta ma bella, e viceversa ; invece le persone le vedo come multi-etniche, stronze, invisibili e ammucchiati. “ -Nicola Mazza (fantasista dell’ aperitivo): “gente nevrotica che cammina in mezzo a spogli viali alberati, invece trovo che le donne milanesi si vestono bene , almeno quelle che conosco.” -Simona Anémic (studentessa di cinema): “ci sono andata solo una volta, per il concerto di Lady Gaga, ma nevicava quindi sono stata solo alla metro, non ho visto nulla ; ho notato solo che erano tutti molto di fretta e molto snob.” -Giulia Logo Di Gregorio ( studentessa fuori sede di design e cantante): “è una città spersonalizzata e spersonalizzante.. le persone che ci sono a milano spesso la usano e non la vivono, è una usercity i cui fruitori diventano pian piano un terzo dopo le sette di sera.. però è l’unica città italiana che possiamo chiamare metropoli e che offre tantissime opportunità e da tanto tra le aberrazioni della vita frenetica. a Milano C’È veramente ogni classe, ogni tipologia di persona che ti possa venire in mente, quindi anche tanti tipi diversi dal punto di vista estetico.” 73/74
-Michel Lambertini (Designer): “è una città grigia, inquinata, con molto traffico, snob e vittima di se stessa, però a tratti meravigliosa, ha angoli decisamente molto belli che incarnano lo spirito di questa città. I suoi abitanti pur essendo nevrotici, altezzosi e snob, sono molto volenterosi e gran lavoratori, c’è spirito d’ iniziativa e tutti si danno da fare per arrivare, per questo si respira un po’ l’aria di una grande metropoli. Le conoscenze che si fanno qui non si fanno altrove, ed è il centro dove tutto si svolge soprattuto per certe professioni. Inoltre il fermento culturale underground qui riesce ancora a sopravvivere, questo le dona un fascino più europeo rispetto ad altre città. Ma la parte che preferisco è la sua night-life, sicuramente la più ricca d’Italia.” -Claudio Tarantino (musicista cantautore): “Milano è la città che amo di più perché ci sono nato Milano è sinonimo di casa e stabilita per me pero odio le persone che ci vivono...Milano è una citta’ grigia ma che in certe occasioni si rivela magica...è come una donna che senza trucco è poco guardabile ma con un po di make up diventa bellissima...”
Lost Wanderer In the quietude of her room, a girl is waiting for the warmth of Spring to thaw the city. She feels a subtle longing, struggling to combat the lifelessness of the streets she wears a printed top, a black mini skirt, with a tangerine beaded necklace. She can feel the warmth coming, ‘it has to be’ she thinks as she rests in a chiffon dress. With the soft floral fabric against her skin she stares out the window at the bare branches on the trees. She feels similar to the braches: minimal and she appears in a cotton floor length skirt and a light blue blazer.
OPPOSITE Blazer - Rag and Bone Shirt - GAP Maxi Skirt - H&M ABOVE Top: Ecote; Skirt: Kimchi Blue; Shoes: Velvet Angel; Bracelets: Model’s own
Dress: Jovovich Hawk for Target; Shoes: Model’s Own
Girls Who Like Didion
article and photography by zan romanoff
I wanted California but it didn’t want me.
The archetypal California girl is
long, lean and tan with knobbed knees and ankles and salt-tangled, honey-colored hair. I am short and pale, with skin that burns and hair that snarls so that I leave the beach pink, itchy and disheveled. I grew up in Los Angeles, where the land disappears into miles of ocean, green coastline erupting above and before the surf, going sweet and soft as it fans out into sand and disappears into crash and spume. No one needed to remind me I was out of place. My body rejected it, could not enjoy it, looked ugly in it. Surfers rode waves, stroking her curves while I looked on, reading a book under my umbrella, absorbed by somewhere else. 75/76
I don’t think I would have put it this way then, but I read to escape: fantasy fiction, strange worlds, even the alien eastern US, with its dark cold winter, snow, sleet. I watched California roll by on countless screens—Clueless comes to mind—but this only made the place seem more impenetrably glossy, unreachable and lovely. I existed slippery and shapeless in the midst of it all, a small aberration, grey static across the screen’s bright sheen. So, of course, I made plans to leave, applied to colleges anywhere but here and talked about needing to meet people who hadn’t grown up in California. We were a breed apart, I imagined, all of us sun addled, complacent, with our surfer-inflected drawls. (It took me years to properly recognize my own accent; sometimes I think it gets stronger the longer I stay away, yearning for home stretching and flattening my vowels, “oh fer suuure.”) We had grown up in a balmy, flattering climate on land that always threatened disaster, to simply fall from beneath our feet. The calm that came from being raised in a poisonous paradise was too much for me. I wanted to meet my neurotic people. I wanted to go east and get cold. Of course, no one knows this better than Joan Didion. She loves the state as only its exiles can; she recognizes that California
I existed slippery and shapeless in the midst of it all, a small aberration, grey static across the screen’s bright sheen. is a land for the stupid and beautiful and she knows that there is still a romance to it which, even if you are not stupid or beautiful, makes you wish to belong. I began to read her seriously in my own exile, in my cold Connecticut dorm room, where she remade California into a land of words, a place I recognized for its splendor as well as its frankly terrible power. Finally, here was a landscape so wholly encompassing that it had room, even, for the pale neurotics, its shaky, withdrawn daughters. Joan Didion is the patron saint of girls like me, and it was not until I was gone that I learned that I was not some lone misfit but one of her tribe: girls grown up bookish and uncomfortable, who left home only
to find themselves drawn back to it, that place sirenic, emitting a sweet lulling pull, probably distantly tidal. I had no idea that I was a California girl, with long hair and hippie parents and a need for granola and sunshine, until I left and found myself, finally, somewhere else. It turned out to be pretty nice; it will never be home. Didion has often been criticized for her remove, a distant nastiness to so many of her subjects. It is true that her ire can rankle; though I find Slouching Towards Bethlehem faultless, the cruelty of parts of The White Album is hard to take. I idolize her and I’d never want to meet her; one way and another, I am certain she wouldn’t approve. I think that may be the other reason we love her so fiercely, this tribe of shy literary girls who grew up pretty, maybe, but uncertain, and haunted always by our awkward pasts. Didion is like us but sure of herself; her writing brooks no argument. She is ultimately authoritative on all of her subjects: packing suitcases, the intimacies, intricacies of family life, military cemetaries, freeway traffic patterns, the Hoover Dam. She writes about the unstable modern with a primness inherited from the 50’s and she is unafraid to pass judgment. To read her today, her dated, full skirted language describing cocktail hours and tea sets, a life opulently ritualized, is to long for her past, even as it helps us imagine longing for our own. Girls who love Joan Didion have always felt old, I think, or at least unable to make use of our own youth; through her blur the thing becomes lovely instead of unnerving. There have always been terrors, the world shaken and still dusty, sunlit, with someone lounging by the pool. Joan Didion goes inside to lie in the dark, a cool cloth over her eyes; she waits patiently for tomorrow, and spins it all into story.
It is irresistible to quote what is probably her most often repeated line here: we tell ourselves stories in order to live. But it is at the crux of it, why a generation of girls grown up on sexual liberation and gender theory and instant connection, always, love this staid old lady and her tales of what are, at this point, other worlds entirely. The order of narrative makes the turn of days manageable; hers, particularly, seem to us handed down from a remote old order, a time when the world made slightly more sense. If we can see ourselves in them, perhaps our own lives are not quite so chaotic; perhaps a tea dress and a drink can settle us down, too, and get us through to our own tomorrows. I love Joan Didion much as I love California: with a personal fierceness that stems in part from their remote, vast quality, the fact that they are institutions in their own right, beloved by so many. I am only one girl speeding along coastal highways, losing myself as the state spreads into ungoverned ocean. I can’t account for the place; the books do it better, but I can’t live in those books, either. Didion opened my world for me: reading her, I stopped reading to escape, started reading to know better a place I had so long taken for granted. So now I love the writer and the state both, as best I can: as selflessly as possible, eyes wide to the possibility of loss, always with my arms open, embracing.
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BESPOKE
The new Daedelus album gets a listen. Upon hearing Bespoke, the latest from Daedelus, my friend had this to say: “I find the other albums better.” I mention this to caution you away from such a mentality; Bespoke is not something that can be so easily compared with anything. As is Daedelus’ fashion, the whole album experiments with rhythms and melodies, defying convention and breaking barriers between genres like we walk from one room to another. Yet the collection remains in perfect balance. The resulting effect is something akin to exploring a dreamscape, observing the shifting scenes and haunting visages with a comforting air of tranquility. This work, like so many others from Daedelus, marks another step on an evolutionary chain. It creates new meaning through tone and instrumentation the likes of which I have quite honestly never experienced before. In addition, he’s graduated from the ambient background melodies to a more full-bodied sound that needs no secondary activity as distraction. The tracks have depth and complexity afforded by countless layers of sound, such that each listener’s experience will be different every time, affected by variables in speaker quality, hearing ability, and even one’s current mood. Tracks like Penny Loafers (featuring The Bird and the Bee’s Inara George) are obscenely inventive and addictive to the point of making most other contemporary electronic music obsolete. Daedelus draws us in with familiar
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modes, but expands on that base; this sound, these tracks: they are glimpses of the future, glimpses of the evolution and progression of this generation’s music. They are anthems to commemorate the artistic expression we strive to preserve and the progress we make through perseverance, creativity, and integrity. To put it simply, if your goal is to shake your ass or act like a raving lunatic on a dance floor, this is not the music for you. If you’re looking for an epic party soundtrack, you’d best move along. This music is high culture shit. It provides a good background for stimulating intellectual
conversation, calms your nerves and keeps you focused during a hellish commute, or sets the appropriate atmosphere for simply chilling out and listening. It’s unapologetically unique, always refreshing, and incessantly pleasing to listen to. And I have learned from experience that it stands up to repeated listening without losing its edge. Daedelus’ live performances are certainly a sight to behold, but Bespoke delivers an equally impressive experience without the aid of the flashing Monome lights. the merchandise
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WINTER’S END
text and photography by andy romanoff
In early spring of 1970 the Hog Farm went down to Orlando to work on a festival called Winters End. Conceived after Woodstock, Winters End ran into massive resistance from Florida government and was forced to change locations several times. When we arrived there was nothing but a muddy field and the beginnings of a stage. The next few days were all about helping to put the semblance of a show together and in the end a show did go on. Johnny Winter, Mountain and a bunch of local bands played and people had a party. I worked the free stage but found time to take some pictures. Here are a few of them.
Opposite: Here’s a look ready to come back, striped bell bottoms and a Levi shirt. I love that he is essentially invisible, hidden behind the camera and all that hair. We can guess though that he isn’t a pro shooter. The camera is a Nikormat, not a Nikon.
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Opposite: Over the years this has become one of my favorites. A not perfect picture, two guys cut off near the ankles, the nose of the car just out of frame, we don’t know who they are or where they are going….. but…..we know they are going somewhere, dressed to thrill, attitude like crazy, end of the sixties. Below: People sitting in front of the free stage waiting for the music to go on. Fancy hats of some kind or another, headbands, army cast-offs, tee shirts and jeans are the uniform. Not much tye-dye down south. In the background you can see the Asp.
The bus I lived on was called the Impossible Asp after its license plate, ASP 110. It was a Greyhound Silverside built around 1948 and it was the first Hog Farm bus without Day-Glo paint on the outside. We kept it that way so we could drive it without being stopped every few miles but on the inside it was completely and beautifully collaged. The legendary Hog Farmer Butch is driving the bus in this photo. Butch wore that leather hat, a work shirt and jeans every day. I think he had two sets, except for the hat. He was impervious to heat and cold. In fact, after a disagreement one night out in the desert he stormed off the bus in this outfit and a leather jacket. It cold enough that there was frost on the windows and everyone thought he would be back in after a while, but the night passed and he didn’t come back. In the morning, when the coffee was on, he returned without a word. Later I asked him where he had gone and he said “I just curled up under a rock and went to sleep”.
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JUJ We talk to the Los Angeles beatmaker about the status of the beat scene, and the WEDIDIT collective. DMM: So how did you get started in music? Juj: Music’s always been around in my life in some way. I can remember dicking around with a mini CASIO when I was like 3 and learning little duets with my Dad. I started taking piano lessons when I was 8 from an old lady across the street, and eventually moved on to guitar and drums. Then I kinda fell off with the instruments and moved into the more electronic side of things. DMM: When did that switch to electronic music take place? Juj: Well, I first got a rip of Reason in 2003. I didn’t know what I was doing and made some straight garbage. I barely listened to hip-hop at the time so a lot of the shit I ended up making wasn’t even really beats— I still had fun with it though. After maybe a 2 year hiatus, I bought an MPC1000 on my 18th birthday in 2008. That’s when I really started producing things with any serious direction. So I had a background/foundation in it for a while, but I like to lie and just say since 2008. DMM: Do you have a favorite Song/Album/ Artist that you find really inspiring stylistically? Juj: No, I really can’t pick a single favorite for any 87/88
category- I listen to so many different artists and I’m inspired by them all. I can tell you that Sunrise by Samiyam has the most plays in my iTunes, that one would definitely make it onto my desert island playlist. I would also say that as far as albums, Los Angeles by Flying Lotus probably had the biggest impact on my musical development. That was really the stepping stone for me from the world of Dilla, Madlib, and Doom into the whole beat movement. DMM Do you have a favorite song that you’ve made? Juj: I think Memories and My Room are my favorite tracks so far. I’ve made plenty of beats, a fraction of which are worth shit, and an even smaller portion of which I release to people. But those are two that I would proudly play for anyone. DMM: Do you try to stay within a certain genre? Juj: Nope. DMM: I’ve heard two tracks with Zeroh rapping over your beats, as well as the song Pomegranate Limeade on Slack, do you plan on doing more work with vocalists in the future, or do you plan to keep it more instrumental?
Juj: I’m pretty open to whatever. People rap on my shit all the time and that’s all good, I’m not super protective over my beats really. But if it comes to doing something official, I tend to be kind of selective about who I’d like to collaborate with. Sometimes I make things that are a little too cluttered for a vocalist, but I loved how Pomegranate Limeade came out and obviously Zeroh’s a beast. I guess we’ll just wait and see. DMM: Do you see yourself as part of the LA beat scene, and if you do, do you feel like you have seen it changing and growing? Juj: I don’t even know man. A year ago I would have said I am definitely not a “member” of the LA beat scene, but lately I think it’s more ambiguous. I guess I kind of see myself on the periphery of that whole thing. Like I’m not out there playing shows and making real moves like a lot of serious artists, but the internet has a funny way of hyping things. Like WEDIDIT gets some serious blog love around the interwebs [sic], and sometimes I see a quick description of “the LA beat scene” that just includes Brainfeeder and us. That shit cracks me up. Also, I don’t get around to doing many gigs, but I’ll hear about my tracks getting dropped at Low End sometimes and just be like, “damn, I guess I am contributing something.” I’ve just witnessed Low End in particular blow the fuck up in last year or two. It’s a little hipster hot spot, which is great for business but kind of frustrating when I’ve shown up and there’s just like a 100 person line wrapping around the corner. I don’t know, I guess that kind of growth is inevitable, but I’ll still whine about it. DMM: How did WeDidIt start, and what is it supposed to serve as?
Juj: Hmm, I as I remember it, WEDIDIT was basically just a fucking logo that me, Shlohmo, and Joseph stuck on our myspaces. Then Henry (Shlohmo) started up the blog and slowly we started getting in touch with more artists that we liked and wanted to add to the roster. It’s basically just a way to help push each other’s creativity and bring a bigger spotlight to all of us. That’s what I really like about it. Like, I’m not really big on hyping my own shit, but I’ll rep the crew all day, and any attention that comes to one of us benefits everyone. The collective is basically just a statement that if you like one of us, you’ll probably enjoy everyone else’s tunes too.
DMM: How many members of WEDIDIT are there now? Juj: There are 10 of us: Me, Shlohmo, Groundislava, Melonious Drunk, Zeroh, Jonwayne, Elan, Joseph, NonEpic, and Dr. Blount. DMM: Has being a part of this group influenced your style at all? Juj: It definitely has. I listen to my friends’ music a lot and get inspired all the time. It’s like some good pressure/motivation to keep up. Sometimes someone will send me a beat and I’ll think, “damn, this is serious. I gotta keep up.” I think it makes me try harder to meet that standard more than it effects my style per se, but that’s the cool thing. Everyone is doing similar shit, but we each have unique styles to bring to the table.
DMM: Do you think being a member of the collective has helped you in other ways? Juj: I mean the collective, along with the whole beat scene in general, has just been a cool way to connect with like minded people. I have friends that I would probably have never met if not for all of this music shit. DMM: Do you see WEDIDIT continuing into the future and growing? Juj: I see us getting lazy and letting the blog go to shit, then in a few months getting randomly amped on it and making it really cracking. Then we’ll get lazy again, then hyped… and just repeat that process forever. DMM: What about your own career? Any big plans for the near future? Juj: Not really. I think I’ll just continue to make some shitty beats in my room every once in a while, and hopefully I can either get discovered and sell out or score a one hit wonder and retire early.
Amidst the Carnage Want to know the great equalizer? It’s neither money nor power that makes women Behave like men; it’s shoe sales. And not just a sale at the mall, Kmart or Sears, But a Designer Shoe Sale at Barney’s, Madison Avenue Where three ounce, mile-high, feathered straps Glued to dime-thin base composed of sex And Christmas tree ornaments, Each one at once hard and soft, Sharp and smooth, an army of variegated colors In bold defiance of nature’s own, Are all half-price. It’s a mania that men should brave And recall whenever wives and girlfriends Accuse them of taking televised sport too seriously With condescending headshakes of rational superiority As they exit the room, disgusted. Designer shoe sales are the equalizer Turning sisters against one another, friends Into ferocious competitors armed with formidable Lurid red stilettos and surreptitious delight In the hobbled exasperation of other females.
89/90
Nor is this a place for the uninitiated Who will never understand the transcendence In this lovely woman’s ascent from plush velvet couch To wobble, precariously balanced, on one deliciously delicate Absurdly expensive and utterly impractical party Heel, a smile transporting her from overcrowded showroom To the legendary place she dreams someday Of wearing them, perhaps while descending a staircase, The envy of every woman in the room. tony magistrale
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Sun Seekers
Hat: Stairing at Stars; Shoes: Marc Jacobs; Bag: Louis Vuitton; Shorts: Zara; Bathing Suit: Juicy Couture Leopard Print Blouse: H & M; Leopard Print Knit Top: Diane von Furstenburg; Beaded Bracelet: Juicy Couture Red Nailpolish: Thrill of Brazil by OPI; Lipsaver and Tinted Moisturizer with Sunscreen: Aveda; Orange Necklace: Vintage; Sunglasses: Oliver Peoples; Five Strand Bracelet: David Yurman; Book: The Wind-Up Bird Chronicle by Haruki Murakami; Silver Bracelet with Pink Saphires and Silver Bracelet: John Hardy;
Thank You our contributors
audreyhepburncomplex.tumblr.com cocochicblog.co.uk everythingfab.com iwoulddieforfashion.tumblr.com jadore-.tumblr.com lavelaundry.tumblr.com shakeyourhair.tumblr.com strokous.tumblr.com zanopticon.tumblr.com Andy Romanoff Tony Magistrale WIll Blakely Juj
editors
ballet-flats.tumblr.com myflightoffancy.tumblr.com sistermorphines.blogspot.com
We would like to give a special Thank You to our wonderful and insightful advisor Julia Gorton. We loved working with you and without you this issue would be no where near what we had hoped for!