EAT & DRINK
Climbing the hill AFTER ANNOUNCING THEY WERE CLOSING THIS SPRING, GRILL ON THE HILL HAS REOPENED THIS SUMMER UNDER THE HAPPY PLATE CONCEPTS UMBRELLA. By Matt Dinger
When Grill on the Hill announced that it was closing its doors in April, the line stretched out the door on its final days. When the restaurant, 324 SW 25th St. opened quietly under the new ownership of Happy Plate Concepts this month, nearly every table in the joint was already full. “It’s always been a historic place to us. A place that we respected for sure. And so, we found out they were closing and they were actually looking for buyers,” Aly Cunningham, co-founder of Happy Plate Concepts said. The other co-founder, Shannon Roper, reached out to Grill on the Hill owners Norma Ericson and Rory Carver and a deal was inked. “I knew they’d been there for 30 years. These owners had it for 15 and Jamie had it for 15 years before that and we kind of liked that area. I think eventually it’s gonna be kind of like the Plaza, I’m hoping, one day,” Roper said. “So I went and talked to Rory and Norma and they’re just great, amazing people and they were wanting to retire and were just kind of done and so we just decided to give it a shot. We negotiated a deal with them. They still have some ownership in it. We
felt that was the best way to go about it, so we just jumped into it and thought we would try to get it back open and keep it around. It’s been there so long. So many people and so much history.” The iconic memorabilia still lines the walls, but the paint was
removed from the window in the eastern half of the restaurant, a fresh coat was put on the walls and new track lighting installed. “I think the customers are liking it. We’re trying to keep it as similar as possible, but obviously, when something closes, you’ve Aly Cunningham, Humberto Galvan, Curt Breuklander and Misty Tarver of Grill on the Hill. Photo by Berlin Green got to make some changes. Things your name,” she said. also still on the menu but has been have to evolve. We’re trying to keep The restaurant has moved away stacked on buttered toast with it the same. We’ll know your name. from counter service to full rescheddar cheese, tomatoes and an We’ve got your familiar dishes and taurant service and the menu has egg cooked your way. in a comfortable environment. been overhauled. And there are new menu items That’s pretty much what it was to “Some of the things that he had like the “Monte Cristo Bleus,” start with,” Roper said. told us through stories that were which is thinly-sliced, slow-roastOver the years, Grill on ed beef with bleu cheese crumbles the Hill became a popular and cherry compote served on spot for business leaders, brioche French toast and the elected officials and other “Atomic Tots,” which are covered public figures. It would not in spicy chili, cheddar cheese, jalabe uncommon to spot a penos and sour cream. mayor, a city councilor or But Cunningham said she una police chief dining beside derstands some customers will other patrons or each want their classics served the same other, united by the way or want to make substitutions, common bond of the grill’s which are also welcomed. She calls no-frills menu. Grill on the Hill a “yes-taurant,” “If you ask anyone about which, much to her chagrin, has not what it is that brought you yet caught on. to Grill on the Hill, it was They opened softly and quietly first and foremost, the in the middle of July working out amazing people that work the kinks in the menu and with the new table service model. While they haven’t announced that they’re open for business, they haven’t turned anyone away at the door either. “We are open. We’ve been kind The Monte Cristo Bleus (left). Nashville Style Catfish with fries, and the Green Chili Breakfast Burger with of quiet about it, but we’ll officialtator tots. (Above.) Photo by Berlin Green ly announce on Facebook that his favorites, or things that he we’ve got a grand opening coming. liked to make back in the kitchen, And I don’t know that it’s going to we named them after Rory. And be anything, like, amazing other so you know, you still have your than, ‘Hey, we are really open,’ just baskets and your burgers, but they in case anyone wants to know. might just look a little bit differWe’re going to be open for the next ent in bet ween the buns,” hundred years, hopefully. There’s Cunningham said. no need to rush it on to freak ev“Rory’s Favorite” — an omelet eryone out. We’re just trying to there, the servers, the cooks. — is made with slow-roasted beef, ea se i nto it r ig ht now,” Everyone knew everyone … That caramelized onions and provoCunningham said. atmosphere was something that lone topped with horseradish Grill on the Hill is open seven was very important right off the sauce and au jus, while “Rory’s days a week from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m. bat ,that we saw that we wanted to Loaded Hush Puppies” are smothThat might be announced publicly keep, and we wanted to make that ered in spicy chili, cheddar cheese the first week of August. Maybe. a ‘Cheers’ sort of place, a neighborand green onions. Visit happyplateconcepts.com hood place where everyone knows The grill’s signature meatloaf is E AT & DRINK OKGA Z ET TE .COM | J U LY 2 7, 2 0 2 2 13
