ONE OF THE W ORLD’S LAST INTACT WILDERNESS AREAS
CAPE YORK Cape York is renowned for its exceptional natural beauty and cultural values. W ith breathtaking scenic backdrops, extensive sandy beaches, revered Aboriginal legac y and splendid National Park s, it is one tourist destination that no adventure lover would want to miss.
“A wilderness is hereby recognized as an area where t he earth and community of life are untrammelled by man, where man himself is a visitor who does not remain, in contrast with those areas where man and his own work s dominate the landscape.� T h e W il d er n e ss A ct of 1 9 6 4 a s wri t t en b y H o wa r d Z a hni se r of T h e W il d er n e ss S oci et y
WELCOME Being a tour operator on Cape York came about completely by chance. I was conducting tours on Fraser Island and one of the other guides kept talking about this business that he had for sale. I didn’t think much of it at the time, we already had a business, but after some discussion we purchased Off Road Adventure Safaris. Cape York had always been on my wish-list as a destination however, even with what I knew, the beauty of the Cape took me by surprise. We have found that this holds true for the people that have travelled the Cape with us. It is a truly unique environment in so many ways and is currently under consideration for listing as a World Heritage Area. It is a privilege to be able to return to the Cape each year and to show it to people like you. I hope that you enjoy the information that we have compiled in this book and that it motivates you to include Cape York into your future travel plans.
Mark & Jody Essenhigh Off Road Adventure Safaris
INTRODUCTION TO CAPE YORK The intrinsic beauty of Cape York is that it has remained virtually untouched by humans. The original occupants lived at one with the environment with no plans or need to tame that environment. It provided for their needs and in return they cared for the land. With the arrival of explorers and settlers the Cape soon made them aware that if they wished to remain they would need to adopt similar principles. Many exploration parties were thwarted in their attempts by their lack of understanding of the natural environment. Imagine what it would have been like to be standing in a massive expanse of lush grassland as your horses, the lifeblood of the expedition, died because the grasses were poisonous. The area known as Heathlands, at the northern end of the Cape, became known as the wet desert for exactly this reason. During the monsoonal season much of the Cape becomes a massive flood plain as rivers and streams break their banks and blend into each other, leaving isolated islands of high ground on which the wildlife finds shelter. This is the time of plenty, when the Cape is at its most magnificent. Aquatic eggs, laid in the dwindling streams of the last dry, hatch in their millions providing the basis for a food chain that will support a plethora of predators. Birdlife, both in species and numbers, become the dominant feature of these massive wetlands as they are attracted by primal urges to feed and breed. As the dry season begins and the waters recede, the Cape displays an unexpected
array of lush greens, crystal clear creeks with stunning waterfalls and vistas that would soften the hardest heart. Wildlife abounds as the next generation take their first tentative steps in a new world. The Cape is considered to have the oldest living culture on Earth. In many of the indigenous communities traditional practises are still a part of daily life. The, over 1,200, rock art sites in the Laura area are considered by UNESCO as amongst the most important in the world and the Queensland Government has applied Wild Rivers Legislation to many areas. There is a growing momentum to have the Cape declared a World Heritage Area. Big mining has focused its sights on Cape York, the ramifications of which could be catastrophic. Covering an area larger than Great Britain and with a population of less than twenty thousand people the Cape remains one of the most isolated areas in the World. There is only one road that will take you to the northern tip of Australia and the journey is considered to be one of the last frontiers. Even with the access provided by the upgrading of the Peninsula Development Road this is not a challenge to be treated light heartedly. The skeletal remains of abandoned vehicles are a testament to the foolhardy who ventured here unprepared.
Cape York - population 18 thousand - covers roughly the same surface area as Great Britain - population 59 million.
THE NATURE OF CAPE YORK With 137,000km² of tropical manors and 4,000km of secluded coastline, Cape York stretches 1,000km to the north of Cairns, Queensland. It has a population of approximately 18,000 and the majority (70%) of its population is Aborigines and Torres Strait Islanders. Cape York is a large secluded peninsula and has an outstanding diversity of remarkable landforms.
LANDFORMS The varied sceneries and landscapes of this region extend as trifling topographies across its vastness. Meandering rivers, grasslands, striking dune fields and the vast wetlands of Cape York are deliberated among the most striking in the world. Unscathed by any tectonic activity, most of Cape York is marked by extremely desolate plains. At the same time, some very low, picturesque hills can be observed on the eastern side of this incredible peninsula. The Peninsula Ridge, an integral part of Australia’s Great Dividing Range, is undoubtedly the lifeblood of Cape York. The foundation of this exceedingly impressive mountain range consists of primitive Precambrian and Palaeozoic rocks. The Peninsula Ridge rises to an elevation of approximately 800m in the McIlwraith Range around Coen.
The Great Dividing Range finishes as an island 10km from the coast of Papua New Guinea.
CLIMATE Cape York is bestowed with a warm tropical climate, i.e. with wet summers and dry winters. It experiences heavy monsoons between November to April, and a comparatively drier season between May and October. Average temperature in higher regions is 18°C and on lowlands is 27°C. A typical summer day in Cape York has a temperature of around 35°C, and a temperature above 40°C is quite rare. In the same way, temperature below 5°C is quite rare during the winters. April to October is the best time to visit Cape York. The Kimberly’s, Top End and Cape York share similar climatic conditions; however, the latter differs from the first two because of its relatively wetter climate. The following winter rainfall figure illustrates this fact:
Source: Bureau of Meteorology, Australia
Cape York supplies almost 30% of the water for the Great Artesian Basin.
The Cape York Peninsula experiences heavy rainfall during the summers, with an average annual rainfall of 800mm in the south and an abundant 2,400mm in the north.
The following summer rainfall map illustrates the same. It shows average rainfall conditions during October to April, which is the northern wet season in Cape York.
Source: Bureau of Meteorology, Australia
RIVER SYSTEMS & FLOOD PLAINS The Cape York Peninsula is especially known for its hydrological integrity. With unspoiled river catchments and water flows, it is able to keep the essence of the tropical water cycles intact here. The Coral Sea and the Gulf of Carpentaria are divided by the Peninsula Ridge, to the west of which lies a sequence of mighty, meandering river systems such as the Archer, Coleman, Ducie, Holroyd, Jardine, Mitchell, Watson and Wenlock. All of these rivers bare themselves in the Gulf of Carpentaria. Very little of these rivers is seen during the arid winters as they are belittled to trivial pools and sandy beds during this season. To the east, shorter and swifter rivers such as the Endeavour, Jeannie, Pascoe, Lockhart, Olive and Stewart Rivers flow to join the Coral Sea. On their journey, these untouched rivers are ruled with thick dense rainforests, mangroves and sand dunes. The valleys of the Laura basin are traversed by rivers such as the Hann, Laura, Jack, Morehead, North Kennedy and Norman Rivers.
FLORA & FAUNA In terms of vegetation, biodiversity and natural integrity, Cape York is highly distinguished from relatively drier regions of Australia. This is primarily because of its retention of rainforest species which are great examples of the flora and fauna of the woodlands.
Plant Habitats and Diversity Cape York features a widespread range of plant habitats such as Heathlands, Gallery Forests, and Rainforests, Eucalypt Woodlands, Melaleuca Woodlands, Freshwater Wetland Communities, Littoral vegetation and Grasslands, including more than 200 regional ecosystems. The combination of all these significant habitats paves the way for a multifaceted natural landscape that is unique to this part of the Earth. The majority of these plant habitats spread over the complete Cape York Peninsula, making it an affluent montage of habitats. In fact, such is the opulence of Cape York in terms of plant diversity that in spite of occupying only 3% of Australia, it encompasses 18.5% of its plant diversity. Cape York is especially prominent on the world map because of the presence of many rare species and restricted endemics. It is especially rich in life-forms such as invertebrates, freshwater creatures, mangroves, sea grass and orchids. Recent research has realised 4 species of previously unknown freshwater crabs. There are more than 264 plant species and 6 plant genera that are exclusively prevalent in the Cape York Peninsula.
The flora of Cape York consists of the original Gondwanan species that emerged during the breakup of Gondwanna and Indo-Malaya species through the Torres Strait. No wonder that Cape York, especially its McIlwraith Range Iron Range regions, is identified as a nationally significant area of endemic plants.
Fauna With an incredible assortment of 40 endemic and 700 terrestrial vertebrate species, Cape York exhibits unbelievable biodiversity. The fauna of this region is an amazing mix of Gondwanan relics, New Guinean invaders and Australian isolationists. Some very rare species - such as the Buff-breasted Buttonquail, Lovely Fairywren, Pied Oystercatcher, Eastern Brown Snake and Bramble Cay Melomys - are found in this peninsula.
INDIGENOUS CULTURE Cape York’s Indigenous people have occupied this region for at least 50,000 years, making it the most ancient living culture on Earth. Aborigines and Torres Strait Islanders represent the majority of people in this region and it is interesting to note that approximately 70% of Cape York’s population is indigenous. For visitors, getting immersed in the Indigenous culture of Cape York can be an extremely rewarding experience. Australia’s Indigenous people have lived in harmony with the environment since times immemorial. In fact they have, through the use of techniques such as mosaic burning, adapted the environment to make it more human-centric, and thus paving the way for a tradition that facilitates a
seamless transition between humanity and the physical environment. Indigenous people use their surroundings and the available resources for cultural as well as economic purposes, but in an environment-friendly way. Hunting and gathering was the primary occupation of the Aborigines. A thorough and unique knowledge of the land and surrounding resources made it easier for them to hunt and gather seasonal food. The majority of the Aboriginal tribes were mobile groups who changed their location with season.
Cape York is home to the oldest continuing culture on Earth.
PERPETUATION OF TRADITIONAL PRACTICES SUCH AS HUNTING There is no doubt that the colonisation and subsequent modernisation of Australia have brought radical changes in the lifestyle of the Indigenous people. Conversely, it is also true that, on Cape York in particular, the Aborigines and the Torres Strait Islanders have successfully sustained their cultural practices to a great extent. This is due, in part, to the limited impact that the restricted settlement of the Cape has had on the traditional communities. Many indigenous people live in a no-mans land, caught between the modern and traditional worlds. Conversely, a large proportion of the Indigenous people of Cape York have sustained their culture for so long by adapting to the changes around them.
Some of the very common traditional practices of the Indigenous people revolved around hunting, amassing and consumption of marine resources. While preserving such traditions, the indigenous people exercise caution to limit hunting endangered animals such as dugongs and marine turtles. Where as in the past the indigenous people made use of customary weapons such as wooden spears and outrigger canoes for hunting and fishing they now use motor-powered boats, spear guns and fishing rods. Indigenous people have a great affinity to their surroundings and this aspect plays a huge role in the sustenance of their rich culture and heritage.
The people of Seisia and Bamaga originated from Saibai Island – located 8km south of Papua New Guinea.
FIRST CONTACT WITH WHITE SEAFARERS IN THE WEIPA AREA The first documented sighting of the west coast of Cape York was by Willem Janszoon, captain of the trading ship Duyfken, in the year 1606. It is also the first recorded contact between Australian Aboriginals and whites, a story that took its place in local indigenous folklore. The first English seafarer to venture into this area was Captain Matthew Flinders, R.N.; it was Flinders who named Duyfken Point, to the north of Weipa. Flinders also documented the finding of “some reddish cliffs” in the south of the Bay at Pera Head, in the ship’s log.
Very soon after the arrival of the Europeans in Australia, the indigenous inhabitants were severely hit by a series of foreign diseases such as the common cold and small pox. The indigenous populace lacked immunity against these diseases, as a result of which more than half of the Australian Aboriginal population was wiped out. The misappropriation of their land and water resources by the settlers further added misery to their problems. The inhabitants of Cape York were, in general, spared from this due to their relative isolation.
THE EMERGENCE OF THE MODERN AND TRADITIONAL ART GANGS AND STYLES Art and carvings occupy a significant place in Aboriginal culture. No wonder almost all indigenous communities living on the Cape York Peninsula are known for creating dynamic artworks that are appreciated all over the world. The Lockhart River ‘Art Gang’, Aurukun, Hope Vale and Kowanyama are a few of the communities that are popular for their art works. Wei’num is another art and craft initiative that has started to gain popularity. Wei’num was started by five artists who belonged to the communities of Napranum, Weipa and Mapoon. Till recently, the Aboriginal artists were not very organised. However, things have started to change for the better with the landmark exhibition ‘Story Place’, which was organised by the Queensland Art Gallery. The success of this exhibition has encouraged the growth of the art centres and an explosion of a new style of indigenous art that blends tradition and the modern world.
THE LAURA REGION Quinkan Countr y The area is noteworthy for its Aboriginal rock art, initially painted by the Ang-Gnarra people as much as 40,000 years ago. The associated petro glyphs (rock etchings) only became known to white Australians when an amateur archaeologist discovered them in the late 1950s. UNESCO has identified the sites of this region as one of the ten most important primitive art sites in the world.
While there are over 1,200 recognised art sites within the Laura Region only a small number are accessible to the public. Many of the sites are ceremonial and can only be attended in the company of an initiated person; these paintings reveal some of the Ang-Gnarra's most sacred and secret ceremonies. One such site was used for manhood ceremonies. Spirit figures are used to depict expectations; a grotesque monster, a female figure, and a man with a missing tooth. An adolescent Aboriginal boy had to endure elaborate circumcision rites, living in silent isolation until his scar was healed. Then, an older woman would teach him about sexual relations. The monster illustrated what he would become if he violated tribal taboos. As his initiation process continued, he had a front tooth knocked out. The Ang-Gnarra believed in life after death, and that spirits rise up to a heaven called Woolunda, where they encounter Big Uncle, the gatekeeper. He tells them a joke, and when they laugh he can see their teeth. If one is missing, then they are allowed to enter Woolunda. Big Uncle is depicted as tall and thin, coloured in red with white outlines. His eyes bulge white, and his long arms and fingers are outstretched. Big Uncle is not really his name, but his true name is so sacred it may never be spoken out loud. The most notable depictions in the paintings are Quinkans. There are the Timaras also known as the ‘Tall People’ (kind spirits) and the Injims (bad spirits). The malevolent Injims come out of their hiding places, cracks in the rocks, and sneak around at night. They love to create mischief and mayhem and they use purri-purri black magic to catch humans so they can devour their body fat. The Timaras put everything back to how it should be. Archaeologists digging at one of the rock art sites were confused when they found several quartz crystals, which are not native to the area. An Ang-Gnarra elder explained the mystery. He said they were for protection against Quinkans. The crystals would be placed in a campsite where people were sleeping around a fire. Any Quinkan trying to sneak up on them would see flashes of firelight reflecting in the crystal facets and be driven back into the shadows. Even today the local people get nervous if asked to talk about Quinkans after dark.
Cap e York is ou r ho mel and , t he birt h place of ou r for e-f ath er s. T he spirit s of o ur for e-f at her s live here in th es e ser ene ro cks an d sa nd sto ne clif fs. T he art t ha t you a d mire on t he ro cks wa s cre at ed b y our a ncestor s. T he go od an d t he b ad Quin ka ns ar e a cti ve at t he nigh t. T he art o f th e p ast co nne ct s us t o our p re sen t. Cap e York is ou r mo t herla nd an d our a nces tor s b elon ged t o this pla ce . Yo u ha ve to ge t acqu ainte d wit h o ur ro ot s to a ppr ecia te t he Aborigi nal wa y. T his la nd is all we n ee d a s it give s us e ve ry thing – f oo d, ho me , t radi tion, a rt , la w and cultu re. T hese aspe ct s are int egr al p art o f o ur bein g and d rea ms, we live th at way. T he la nd , the ar t, t he la w, th e cult ure , th e herit ag e, all the se a sp ects wor k tog et her he re , ma kin g our live s co nt ent . A ut hor U nkn ow n ( Q uinkan A r ea)
The Laura Dance Festival Any writing on the art and culture of the indigenous people of Cape York is incomplete without the mention of the Laura Dance Festival. It is a biennial festival that exhibits the rich culture of the Aborigines and Torres Strait Islanders through dance and ceremonies. The Dance and Cultural Festival of the Laura region is a magnificent celebration of the Aboriginal culture. Aboriginal communities from the Palm Island, Mornington Island, Cairns, Djarragun College, Hope Vale, Cooktown, Coen, Injinoo and several other towns and villages, come together to participate in this celebration of culture. It would not be an exaggeration to say that this grand festival is a treat for the eyes and senses of all visitors and tourists. Visitation at the 2011 festival was in excess of 5,000 people.
THE EXPLORERS, SETTLERS AND ADVENTURERS While many claim that a Chinese maritime convoy, led by Admiral Zheng made landfall on Cape York in the early fifteenth century, the first universally acknowledged and documented European sighting of the Cape York was by the Dutch sailor, Willem Janszoon, in the year 1606. Janszoon, a Dutch East India Company employee, was ordered by his employer to explore the New Guinea coast in the quest of lucrative economic prospects. Sailing from Bantem, Java, in the Dufkyen, Janszoon was able to document the first landing of Europeans in the Cape York Peninsula in 1606. This expedition made him the first European to have set foot on Australian soil pre-dating Dirk Hartog’s discovery of the west coast by some 15 years. Janszoon further charted towards Cape Keerweer, to the south, where he and his comrades had to face hostility from the local aborigines. Retracing his route to reach Banda he missed an opportunity to discover the Torres Strait. The information supplied by Willem Janszoon stirred Dutch interest in the ‘south land’, especially as they expected to find precious commodities there. Moreover, the Dutch, at that point in time, also were looking for lucrative opportunities to trade with indigenous people. It did not surprise many when the then Governor-General of the Dutch East Indies, Pieter de Carpentier, sent two ships – the Pera and the Arnhem – on a journey of exploration under the authority of Jan Carstenszoon, in the year 1623. Both the ships succeeded in landing on the islands of Taminbar, Kal and Aru, as they sailed towards the southwest coast of New Guinea and on to the coast of Cape York. However, Carstenszoon, like Willem Janszoon, was not to find the Torres Strait. Moreover, he was of the opinion that New Guinea was a part of the southland and was not an island. While in the area Carstenszoon named the Gulf of Carpentaria, in honour of the Governor General. Arnhem Land is named for one of the ships used in his expedition.
At the time of European contact, the region consisted of 43 tribal nations, each with its own language and traditional practices.
JAMES COOK It was not until 1770 and Lieutenant James Cook’s ‘Voyage of Discovery’ that this area would once again be visited by Europeans. The Dutch stories of a ‘great south land’ had created interest amongst the English heralding the appointment of Cook to lead an expedition to claim new lands for the Empire. Following previously travelled routes, Cook made land on the southern section of Australia’s east coast. While travelling north through the uncharted Great Barrier Reef his ship, the Endeavour, was damaged on a reef and was in danger of sinking. The ship was beached in what we now know as the Endeavour River and the current site of Cooktown. During the six weeks that it took to make repairs there were numerous contacts with the local Gungarde and Guugu Yimithirr people. Most of these interactions were quite amicable until the whites broke a taboo regarding the eating of sea turtles. During the time ashore many words of the local language were recorded including Gangurru, their name for the animal that we know as the Kangaroo. Having completed repairs, the Endeavour was re-launched and the journey north continued. Rounding the tip Cook landed on what we now know as Possession Island where the flag was raised to claim the entire east coast of the country. He also named Cape York for the Duke of York, a patron of the expedition. This also led to the discovery of the Torres Strait and the naming of many of the islands in the local area.
EDMUND KENNEDY Edmund Kennedy was the first European to instigate an overland expedition to Cape York. When Thomas Livingstone Mitchell discovered the Barcoo River, Edmund Kennedy was his deputy. They left Buree in New South Wales in November 1845, to find an overland route to the Gulf of Carpentaria. The expedition was unsuccessful, and returned to Sydney in January 1846. Edmund Kennedy started his expedition to Cape York from Rockingham Bay (near the present town of Cardwell) in May 1848, and it would not be an exaggeration to say that his voyage was not only one of the most ambitious, but it was also one of the most tragic and ill-fated of all expeditions in the Australian history, especially as only three out of the thirteen men survived. Once landed, the party encountered terrible terrain such as mangrove swamps, mountains, lagoons, rivers, and thick rainforest that made it almost impossible to travel. After two months, they had only travelled about 20mi. into the interior. The expedition separated into two groups. One group stayed behind, and the other group went north to meet the supply ship. In the area of Cape Weymouth one man accidentally shot himself and could not continue, so two men were left to help him. Kennedy and a young aboriginal man in the expedition, Jackey Jackey, went on to try to find the ship. Kennedy was killed by aborigines at Escape River near Cape York. He was 20mi. from his goal. Jackey Jackey made it to the supply ship alone on 23 December 1848.
In 2008, one hundred and sixty years after the original expedition, descendants of Edmund Kennedy’s team set out on a journey into Cape York to retrace the footsteps of their ancestors. Tim Daniel, the leader of this expedition, and the group followed the exact route of Kennedy’s original expedition with the help of historical maps, charts and journals. The story of the fateful Edmund Kennedy expedition as well as the associated retrace journey is an incredible testimony to the Australian spirit, determination and resilience, and has deservingly been captured by reputable Australian filmmakers Chris and Rosie Browning.
THE JARDINE FAMILY One of the greatest but least celebrated achievements in Australian pioneering was the ambitious attempt to establish a settlement on Cape York in 1863. Described as the ‘Singapore of the Pacific’ it was envisaged that this would become a major trading point and add protection to the area from foreign settlement. This earliest of European settlements on the Cape York Peninsula was suggested by Sir George Bowen, the first Governor of Queensland. The Western shore of the island of Pabaju (Albany Island) was the selected site, and it was later decided that the settlement should be established on the opposite side of the island. Sir George Bowen appointed John Jardine who, accompanied by his wife Elizabeth, was appointed Police Magistrate and charged with the responsibility to oversee the establishment of the outpost. At the same time John’s eldest sons, Frank and Alexander set out from Rockhampton to overland stock to support the settlement. Accompanied by four Europeans and four Aboriginals they left Rockhampton in May 1864 with 42 horses and 250 cattle. On the ten month trek of 1,200mi. (1,931km) they were constantly harassed by Aboriginals, forced their way through jungles, scrub and swamps and crossed at least six large rivers. At the Mitchell River they withstood a major Aboriginal attack. Clad in tatters, wearing hats of emu skin and living on turkey eggs, they reached Somerset in March 1865 with 12 horses and 50 cattle.
Both brothers were elected fellows of the Royal Geographical Society and received the Murchison grant. Their arrival in Somerset was the stepping stone for the Jardine legend on Cape York. In 1866 Frank settled on a station at Lockerbie, near Somerset. When his parents returned to Rockhampton in 1868 he was appointed police magistrate. On 10 October 1873, at Somerset, Jardine married the seventeen-year-old Sana Solia, niece of the King of Samoa; they had four children. In 1884-86 he was in charge of transport for the construction of the Cape York Telegraph Line and in 1890 was prominent in searching for survivors from the wreck of the steamer Quetta. After the Government station was moved to Thursday Island in 1877, Jardine’s home at Somerset was the centre of civilisation on Cape York. Elaborate dinners for visiting dignitaries were served on silver plates made from Spanish dollars found by Jardine on a reef in 1890. He died of leprosy on 18 March 1919 and was buried near the beach at Somerset. He was survived by his wife, two sons and two daughters. The Jardines contributed significantly to the geographic knowledge of the Cape York Peninsula. In fact, it would not be an exaggeration to say that their contribution was the greatest; the only exception could have been Kennedy’s notes, if they had been preserved.
ROBERT LOGAN JACK Robert Logan Jack, originally from Scotland, was appointed Geologist for Northern Queensland in March 1876. He arrived in the colony in April 1877, and soon afterwards was made geologist for the whole colony, succeeding Richard Daintree. An early piece of work was an examination of the coal resources of the Cooktown district, and in August 1879 he began an exploring expedition to the most northerly part of Queensland in the hope that payable goldfields might be found. A second expedition was made towards the end of the year, and though no field of any great value was discovered, much was added to the knowledge of the country. The party endured many hardships and Jack
himself was speared hostile aborigines.
through
the
shoulder
by
He reported on many gold, tin, silver and sapphire areas, and his early work led to the search for artesian water and the construction of the first government bore in the Great Artesian Basin. As part of his expeditions he mapped the coal sites in Bowen, Flinders River and Townsville. He was also a prolific author on the geology, mineralogy and palaeontology of Queensland.
WILLIAM HANN William Hann, the principal squatter of Maryvale Station on the Burdekin, explored the last remaining uncharted regions in Eastern Australia which were in close proximity to the base of the Cape York Peninsula. In 1872 William was given charge of a well-organised official party to explore the interior of the Cape York Peninsula. The country was difficult and Hann was often irked by assistants whose bushcraft was less competent than his. Dense scrub prevented him from reaching his goal on the Endeavour River but the party located some fair pastoral country and discovered and named the Tate, Daintree and Palmer Rivers. Hann greatly underestimated the potential of the alluvial gold he found in the Palmer River which eventually was developed into one of Australia’s richest gold fields. He further proceeded northwards to ascend the highlands and to sight the Pacific Ocean at Princess Charlotte Bay. On his backward journey, he discovered the Normanby River. Ironically Hann, who had come close to bankruptcy as a sheep farmer had a ready market for his cattle amongst the 30,000+ that flocked to the Palmer making him one of the area’s most prosperous citizens. He died suddenly while swimming near Townville on 5 April 1889, survived by his wife and two daughters. A daring horseman and whip and a first-class bushman, Hann was notable among the first general of North Queenslanders.
JAMES VENTURE MULLIGAN Apart from the expedition of Edmund Kennedy and the occasional coastal contact of a few other explorers, the Cape remained largely untouched until the expeditions of James Venture Mulligan. James Venture Mulligan is a man whose deeds are not known to many. Yet he was probably North Queensland’s greatest explorer and prospector - a man who did more than anyone else to open up the vast mineral areas of Cape York Peninsula and the hinterland of Cairns. Ironically he moved to Queensland after being omitted from the ill fated Burke and Wills expedition through Central Australia. Setting out from Georgetown in June 1873 Mulligan and his party initially followed the route taken by Hann in an earlier expedition. After three months of prospecting the Palmer River they returned to Georgetown that September with 102oz. of high quality alluvial gold. The Palmer area was soon overrun by more than 30,000 prospectors. This was probably Mulligan’s greatest triumph. It was a discovery that had far-reaching effects on the whole of Queensland; it led to the founding of Cooktown in October 1873 and the opening up of the whole of the Colony north of Cardwell and Georgetown which were then the most northerly outposts. He made six journeys through the predominantly unexplored southern regions of Cape York from 1872 and 1876. In his older years Mulligan purchased the hotel at Mt Molloy. This was to bring his life to an unfortunate end when he tried to protect a woman from a drunkard and was fatally injured in the melee.
FRANCIS BIRTLES The challenge of crossing the treacherous landscape of the peninsula continued. In 1918, Francis Birtles, the ‘Adventurous Overlander’, rode a bicycle to the tip of the Cape through 960km of rough mountains and jungle scrubs. You would think an adventure like this would be well documented however very little can be found about this particular journey. The main reason probably being that in comparison to other adventures undertaken by Birtles, riding a pushbike to Cape York was like a Sunday ride. By 1912 he had cycled around Australia twice and had crossed the continent seven times. In 1912 Birtles completed the first west-to-east crossing of the continent with Syd Ferguson and his terrier, Rex, in a single-cylinder Brush car. In 1914, with Frank Hurley as cameraman, he made 'Into Australia's Unknown' and in 1915 he retraced their route and was responsible for the film 'Across Australia in the Track of Burke and Wills’ and in 1919 he made 'Through Australian Wilds', following (by car) the track of Sir Ross Smith. In 1926 he set motoring speed records from Melbourne to Darwin and Darwin to Sydney (7 days) in a Bean car named 'The Sundowner'. By mid 1927 he had completed more than seventy transcontinental crossings. Added to these he was the first to drive a car from London to Melbourne in 1927, a feat that would not be repeated until 1955. Birtles took advantage of, and was a product of, that era when adventure and minor fame could be found in accomplishing ever quicker and more daring journeys by bicycle and motor car.
THE BABY The first car to be driven to the tip of Cape York was an Austin 7 affectionately known as a ‘Baby Austin’. This journey was one of many undertaken by adventurers Hector McQuarrie and Dick Matthews, both from New Zealand. The year was 1928 and the Austin 7 had made a name for itself as ‘the big car in miniature’. Affordable and reliable were the words synonymous with the baby Austin and when production finished in 1939, almost 250,000 cars had been produced. Commencing their journey from Sydney, McQuarrie and Matthews had numerous adventures on the way north which allowed them to assess what the car was capable of. By the time they reached the southern section of Cape York they had travelled through difficult terrain however they were about to travel into an area that had rudimentary roads at best. Add to this the numerous rivers, marshlands, mountains and floodplains that had to be traversed and this became an epic journey for its time. Fuel and supplies were an issue and at one stage they had to detour to Weipa to replenish their needs. At that time Weipa was nothing more than a barge landing where cattle were shipped off to market. Upon reaching Heathlands, they enlisted the help of two aboriginal boys to act as their guides to get them as far as the Jardine River. At each of the river crossings they would construct a raft of logs and float the car across. This involved them swimming the raft with the ever present risk of crocodiles to contend with. Having reached the tip of Cape York the car was transported by barge to Thursday Island where it was purchased by Mrs Vidgen, daughter of Frank Jardine. Upon the return to Sydney of McQuarrie and Matthews the agent who originally sold them the car set about buying it back to put on display at the dealership, a clever marketing move that saw sales of this car increase dramatically. McQuarrie and Matthews went on to do a tour of the world and their precious Baby was presented to them as a gift by the agent. While in transit to America aboard the ship Tahiti disaster struck and the ‘Baby’ went to rest on the bottom of the ocean. McQuarrie and Matthews continued with their adventure and upon arrival in America bought a replacement vehicle - a Baby Austin.
THE OVERLAND LINE
TELEGRAPH
After James Mulligan discovered gold on the Palmer River in 1873, a widespread need for effective, efficient and swift communication to connect Cape York to the rest of the world was felt by many. The telegraph lines ran along the settlements of the miners and the pastoralists. Junction Creek, located near Mt Surprise, was connected to Normanton and Cardwell in 1872. In 1876 there was a surge in the construction of telegraph lines that connected Cooktown, Laura, Palmerville, Junction Creek, Maytown and therefore Brisbane. At that point in time, Cooktown was the second largest settlement in Queensland. This motivated the Government of Queensland to instruct John Bradford to construct an electric telegraph line extending the length of Cape York and to Thursday Island. Since Bradford was experienced as the Lines and Mail Route Services Inspector, the surveying and construction of the telegraph line, though challenging, was a fairly routine task for him. It is important to mention here that while the rest of Australia was quite privileged in terms of telephony traffic at that point of time, Cape York was left behind considerably; it was only in the late nineteen eighties that Cape York was facilitated to communicate with the rest of the world through dial telephones.
Originally built in the 1880’s the line was operational until 1987.
In 1884, Bradford succeeded in linking Fairview and Coen, on the southern cape, through the first section of the line. In the next phase, the northern section of the telegraph line, which surrounded the Jardine River catchment, was completed. In this phase, a chain of telegraph stations were constructed along the line. All the telegraph stations were designed like fortresses; the motive behind the design was to protect the station workers against the hostility of the local Aborigines. The Musgrave Repeater Station was inaugurated on the 23 December 1886, which was closely followed by the Coen station. Repeater stations had massive banks of batteries and a generator to boost the strength of the signal through the wires. The Cape York Peninsula telegraph line was operational in 1886; the 90km between Mein and Moreton being an exception as the telegrams and mail in this area were carried by horses until the construction of the line was accomplished. The Mein station was opened in July 1887, and the McDonnell and Patterson stations were opened in August, 1887. At the same time, the underwater cable link to Thursday Island was also finished, thus facilitating easy communication to Brisbane through Morse code. The Cape York Telegraph line was officially opened in 1887, thus enabling the residents of Cape York to overcome their seclusion, through feasible connection with the rest of the world. For more than a decade, the telegraph line had to face quite a few challenges from the local Aborigines who used the wire and insulators from the telegraph line to craft fish hooks, spears and similar equipment. This was eventually overcome by leaving extra wire and insulators at regular intervals along the line. The construction of the telegraph line was no doubt a herculean task; however, its maintenance was no walk in the park either. In fact, it was extremely difficult to maintain the line, with two or three people employed at each telegraph station for more than sixty years. For much of the time that it was in operation the staff carried out inspections and maintenance of the line on horseback. The telegraph line experienced a major overhaul during World War II where it was upgraded from a single line to a four line capability. Due to the importance of
communication during the war the upgrade was completed in less than six months by a joint workforce from made up of Australian and American servicemen. In 1914, the telegraph network was supplemented in Cooktown and Thursday Island via shoreline radio stations. There were a number of upgrades in 1967, during which a telegraph line was built to link to Weipa. The telegraph line remained active for almost a century until 1987, after which it was dismantled. Microwave towers are today a common sight in Cape York, equipping the residents and settlements with efficient STD services. Nowadays, the Old Telegraph Track, as it is affectionately known, is accessible only during the dry season. It is primarily an unmaintained road that passes through some incredibly beautiful sceneries, surreal river crossings and treacherous patches of deep sand. One can find bush camps at the majority of the creek crossings. The Telegraph Track is an integral part of the journey of innumerous travellers who want to get a real feel of the adventure, folklore and exquisite sceneries offered by Cape York.
The line needed constant maintenance as the Aboriginal people would remove the wire and ceramic isolators to make fish hooks and knives.
CAPE YORK WILDLIFE The Cape York Peninsula is undoubtedly a wilderness area of astounding contrasts. The incredibly varied fauna of Cape York is bound to surprise and delight any visitor. With over 500 species of terrestrial vertebrates, Cape York is a nature lovers dream come true. The terrestrial vertebrates are comprised of frogs, reptiles, birds and mammals. The remarkably varied fauna is a direct consequence of the broad range of habitats and the prevalence of pre-Holocene species from Asia and Papua New Guinea.
Cape York has over 40 endemic vertebrate species.
While a majority of the wildlife in Cape York is the same as the fauna in other parts of Australia, Cape York is also blessed with some species that are exclusively found in this area and New Guinea. Tree Kangaroos, The Spotted Couscous and Palm Cockatoos are as synonymous with Cape York as the Dingo is to Fraser Island.
BIRD SPECIES Diverse habitats such as eucalypt woodland, beaches, vine forests, riparian rainforests, thickets, mangroves, swamps, melaleuca woodland, sedgeland and saltpans are conducive to the propagation and survival of bird species in Cape York. One can find over 260 bird species in Cape York. Some of the specialties of this peninsula are Palm Cockatoo, Trumpet Manucode, Yellow-billed Kingfisher, White-streaked Honeyeater and the Magnificent Riflebird. During the rainy season, breeding Red-bellied Pittas are also very commonly sighted. Palm Cockatoo and Golden Shouldered Parrot are two of the most appealing bird species of this region. Cape York and in particular the lowland rainforests of the Iron Range region are home to the northern most populations of Cassowaries in Australia.
Palm Cockatoo The Palm Cockatoo is an intelligent bird species that is found exclusively on the Cape York Peninsula and the New Guinea region. It is by far the largest and smartest of all cockatoos in Australia. Palm Cockatoos are especially known for their complicated social system. During the mating season a male Palm Cockatoo will stand perched near the opening of a nest hole; stretching its wings, and then gradually raising its crest and blushing. He moves his facial feathers to deliberately reveal the beautiful red patches on his cheek. And as if that was not enough to impress his female counterpart, he begins to stamp his feet hard and starts drumming a specially selected stick that is held in his foot or beak to make a loud noise, thus securing the name the drummer for himself. The female cockatoo reciprocates interest by revealing the reddish patches on her cheeks; conversely, she keeps her cheeks covered if she is not interested.
The Palm Cockatoo is only found on Cape York in Australia.
The entire process is complemented by the male cockatoo’s outstretched wings and whistles. The drumming sound produced suggests the quality of the nest hole that is made available to the female. The sound is also intended to exhibit ownership to neighbours and potential usurpers. It is interesting to note that the Palm Cockatoos in other geographical regions such as New Guinea do not exhibit this trait of percussions, perhaps because of the less fierce competition and thick forests that do not facilitate sound to travel beyond a few yards. This use of the stick by the Palm Cockatoo is the only recorded use, in the avian world, of a purposeful tool. Researchers have observed individual males make a number of drum sticks before finding one that gives the required note. After being accepted by a female the stick is shredded and added to the nest material. Palm Cockatoos do not limit their visit to one particular nest hole; in fact, they stay and retain a number of nest holes in their terrain. Preferring heavy cover, they typically choose woodland eucalypts or rain forest trees. A very interesting feature of this bird is that it changes the colour of its unique red cheek patch during distress and excitement. The Palm Cockatoo has a very poor breeding success rate, lower than any other species of parrot, especially as they lay only one egg every second year.
Golden Shouldered Parrot The Golden Shouldered Parrot is a small, intensely coloured, seed-eating, parrot that lives in termite mounds in the Cape York Peninsula. While this species could be
earlier spotted in Cape York areas such as Croydon, Chillagoe, Laura, Coen and Weipa, its occurrence is now limited to the headwaters of the Morehead River catchment and Staaten River National Park. It can also be found in protected areas such as Artemis Antbed Nature Refuge, McIlwraith Range National Park, Holroyd Nature Refuge, Mungkan Kandju National Park and Lakefield National Park. The male Golden Shouldered Parrot is turquoise coloured with a dark crown, perfectly complemented by the bright yellow on the wings and forehead, and a salmon-pink on the belly. Females and immature birds of this species are found in shades of green with a turquoise rear-end. If the official numbers are accurate, there are less than 2,000 Golden Shouldered Parrots living in the wild today. Predation by Butcher Birds, congealing vegetation, shortage of food and nest sites, incongruous fire regimes and overgrazing cattle are some of the primary reasons behind the current endangerment, region restrictions and declining numbers. This parrot prefers to nest in termite mounds on hilly grassy woodlands and grasslands where the temperature seldom falls below 10째C. During the dry season, this bird spends most of the time on sand ridges in eucalypt woodlands. At the commencement of the rainy season, they migrate to gravelly slopes, rock-strewn hills and gleaming grass flats, where they can easily find fallen seeds. They spend the entire wet season in the hills; however, they also stopover at the storm burnt areas in the lowlands quite often.
Cassowary Cassowaries are outstandingly stunning birds. They have a unique beauty with their dark lustrous feathers, striking blue neck, large eyes and eyelashes and a magnificent casque (bone like structure) on the head. They are birds of imposing profile, with the average female growing up to 2m in height and 80kg in weight. The Southern Cassowary, the species found in Australia, is the third tallest and second heaviest living bird, smaller only than the Ostrich and Emu. Cassowaries feed mainly on fruit, although all species are truly omnivorous and will take a range of other plant food including shoots, grass seeds, and fungi in addition to invertebrates and small vertebrates. Cassowaries are very shy, but when disturbed, they are capable of inflicting serious injuries. In his book ‘Living Birds of the World’ from 1958, ornithologist Thomas E. Gilliard wrote: "The inner or second of the three toes is fitted with a long, straight, murderous nail which can sever an arm or eviscerate an abdomen with ease. There are many records of natives being killed by this bird." Cassowaries can run at up to 50km/h (31mph.) through the dense forest. They can jump up to 1.5m (4.9ft.) and they are good swimmers, crossing wide rivers and swimming in the sea as well. This species also attracts attention for the fact that the male Cassowaries incubate the eggs and raise the offspring, thus marking an extraordinary change in the maternal structure of the avian world. Cassowaries are an endangered species, with less than 1,200 individuals left in the natural habitats on the Australian mainland. The declining number of Cassowaries can be attributed to reasons such as loss and fragmentation of habitats, and natural disasters such as Cyclone Larry (2006) and Cyclone Yasi in (2011). In habitat areas such as Mission Beach and the Daintree car strikes kill a concerning number of birds each year.
Cassowary chicks will stay with their father for approxi mately 9 months learning how t o feed. Once the next breeding season starts he will chase the chicks away.
FISH The pristine water resources of Cape York remain relatively undisturbed by human activity, thus bestowing the Peninsula with a conductive environment for fishes and other aquatic species in general. Eighty-eight species of fresh water fishes occur in this region, fifteen of which spend a part of their life in ocean waters. Local water resources of the Cape York region contain varied assemblages of commercially valuable fish stocks. Stream fish such as Fresh Water Mullet, Sooty Grunter and Rainbow Fish are a few of the diverse fish groups found in this Peninsula. Recently Tilapia was confirmed as being a well-established species in the Endeavour River. This introduced species is of major concern due to its tendency to overrun the areas in which it lives. There are only a few options available to control these unwanted invaders. They include poisons specific to fish as was used in a Port Douglas pond in 1989 where five fish were released and subsequently turned into over one million fish (18t.) in three years. The downfall of using poison is all fish, invertebrates and crustaceans in the particular waterway will be destroyed.
Archer Fish Archer Fish, also known as Spinner Fish, has a contour that is compressed sideways. It is a streamlined predator with a straight profile from dorsal fin to mouth. The extended jaw is quite pre-dominant in its appearance. It has silver spots and stripes on its body. It is sexually monomorphic in nature, and is quite famous for its hunting techniques. While able to survive in salt water they tend to be found in the upper reaches of fresh water rivers and permanent billabongs. The Archer Fish is especially known for knocking down insects from hanging foliage by shooting a forceful jet of water from its mouth which is the origin of its common name. When an Archer Fish selects its prey, it rotates its eye so that the image of the prey falls on a particular portion of the eye in the ventral temporal periphery of the retina and its lips just break the surface, squirting a jet of water at its victim. It does this using the narrow groove in the roof of its mouth. It presses its tongue against this groove to form a narrow channel, then contracts its gill covers to force a
powerful jet of water through the channel. The resulting jet of water can be up to 2.5m long, but their accuracy only allows them to shoot insects 1.2m away depending on body size. The fish can alter the power of the shot for prey of different sizes. If the first shot does not knock the victim into the water, the Archer Fish will keep trying. Archer Fish are remarkably accurate in their shooting; adult fish almost always hit the target on the first shot.
Barramundi An iconic fish across the entire top end of Australia, the Barramundi has a reputation as a pugnacious fighter when hooked and a beautiful table fish when eaten. When hooked, a Barramundi will often clear itself from the water several times throughout the battle and make long powerful runs. The record for the biggest line-caught barramundi is 44.6kg at Lake Monduran, QLD (December 2010); others have been caught larger, but a growing trend for catch and release fishing has sustained this record. It is a quest for many Barramundi anglers to catch a 100 pounder, which to date has never been achieved. Barramundi is a loanword from the Aboriginal language of the Rockhampton area in Queensland meaning ‘largescaled silver fish’. Originally, the name Barramundi referred to Saratoga; however, the name was appropriated for marketing reasons during the 1980s, a decision which has aided in raising the profile of this fish significantly. Broadly referred to as Asian Sea Bass by the international scientific community, it is also known as Giant Perch, Giant Sea Perch, Australian Sea Bass, and by a variety of names in other languages. Barramundi can live in both salt and fresh water environments however they must have access to salt water to breed. The species is sequentially hermaphroditic, with most individuals maturing as males and becoming female after at least one spawning season; most of the larger specimens are therefore female.
Large female Barramundi can produce 32 millions eggs in one season and spawn on the full moon.
In Australia, Barramundi is an iconic table fish revered across the whole country. It could be said that it is a quintessential Australian brand. However, such is the demand for the fish that a substantial amount of Barramundi consumed in Australia is actually imported. This has placed significant economic pressure on Australian producers, both fishers and farmers, whose costs are significantly greater due to the stringent environmental and food safety standards placed on them by government. While country of origin labelling has given consumers greater certainty over the origins of their barramundi at the retail level, there is no requirement for the food service and restaurant trades to label the origins of their Barramundi.
REPTILES The origin of the reptiles lies about 320–310 million years ago, in the steaming swamps of the late Carboniferous period. This was a period of low sea levels and heavy forestation. Terrestrial life was well established by the Carboniferous period. Amphibians were the dominant land vertebrates, of which one branch would eventually evolve into reptiles, the first fully terrestrial vertebrates. Modern reptiles inhabit every continent with the exception of Antarctica. Approximately 160 of the total 690 reptile species of Australia are found in Cape York. It is quite challenging to provide an accurate number, especially as new reptile species such as smaller skinks are beings discovered quite frequently. Some of the reptiles that are synonymous with this peninsula are:
Saltwater Crocodile The Saltwater Crocodile (Crocodylus porosus), is also known as the Estuarine or Indo-Pacific Crocodile. It is found in suitable habitats from Northern Australia through Southeast Asia to the eastern coast of India. Commonly referred to as ‘Salties’, they are the largest living reptile on the planet and, in the early stages of development, are considered as a fairly fast-growing species. While adult males can grow to more than 6m (20ft.) in size, the females tend be no more than 3 to 3.5m (10-12ft.). Considered the apex hunter within their environment this creature is extremely dangerous. Typically, the Estuarine Crocodiles are incredibly tolerant to saline conditions and hence inhabit swamps and coastal estuaries; however, despite their name, it is not very uncommon for Saltwater Crocodiles to dwell in brackish waters, freshwater rivers and billabongs. Extraordinary swimmers they can sometimes swim as far as 900km (approximately 600mi.) in the quest of a suitable territory to claim. In late 2008, early 2009 a handful of wild Saltwater Crocodiles were verified to be living within the mangrove and creek systems of Fraser Island, hundreds of kilometres from, and in much cooler water than, their normal Queensland range. It was discovered that these Crocodiles did indeed migrate south to the Island from Northern Queensland during the warmer wet season and presumably returned to the north upon the seasonal temperature drop. Despite the surprise and shock within the Fraser Island public, this is apparently not new behaviour and in the distant past wild crocodiles had been reported occasionally appearing as far south as
Brisbane during the warmer wet season – a 3.5m Crocodile has taken up residence in the Mary River near Fraser Island. The Saltwater Crocodile is an opportunistic predator capable of taking nearly any animal that enters its territory, either in the water or on dry land. They are known to attack humans who enter the Crocodiles' territory. Silent hunters, they patiently wait for the right opportunity to attack their prey. They usually drag their target beneath the water surface, so that the prey drowns before they can feast the victim. Female Estuarine Crocodiles lay approximately 50-60 eggs in an area of muddy vegetation. Once the young ones hatch, the female gently carries her progenies to the water; only one percent of the offspring sustain the environment to become adults. The Saltwater Crocodile is a protected species and should not be harmed intentionally.
Freshwater Crocodile The Freshwater Crocodile, or Johnston’s Crocodile (Crocodylus johnsoni or Crocodylus johnstoni), popularly known as ‘Freshies’, is relatively smaller than the Salties. As the name suggests, the Freshwater Crocodile extensively live in fresh water lakes and streams however they can tolerate low level salt conditions for short periods. Freshwater Crocodiles are endemic to Australia. Unlike their larger saltwater relatives, Freshwater Crocodiles are not known as man-eaters and rarely cause fatalities although they will bite in self-defence if cornered. Freshies can be easily distinguished from its saltwater counterpart because of its light brown colour and bands on the body and tail. The Freshwater Crocodile is a relatively shy reptile that primarily feeds on fish. More than one quarter of the eggs of Australian Freshwater Crocodiles hatch well, but more than 90% of these hatchlings do not survive for more than a year, hatchling predators such as birds and Goannas being the primary reason. In recent years the population of Freshwater Crocodiles has dropped dramatically due to the ingestion of the invasive Cane Toad. The toad is poisonous to Freshwater Crocodiles, although not to Saltwater Crocodiles, and the toad is rampant throughout the Northern Australian wilderness.
Black Headed P ython Black Headed Python habitat ranges from humid tropical to semi-arid regions and this species can be found across much of Northern Australia. Also known as the Shield Snake (Gr. Aspidites ‘shield bearer’ melanocephalus ‘Black-headed’) it has two large armour cut scales on the head which is defined from the rest of the body due to its black colouring. It is this stunning colouring and its docile nature that makes it a popular choice for collectors. The typical length of a Black Headed Python may vary from 1.5-2.5m. Black Headed Pythons are terrestrial and are often found in amongst rocks and loose debris. If disturbed, they will hiss loudly, but are unlikely to bite unless hunting prey. They will sometimes strike with a closed mouth, but generally can be handled easily. They are strong swimmers, but are almost never found inside water. They are non-venomous. These snakes are mentioned in, or play a central role in, the stories of the Indigenous Dreamtime traditions.
Amethystine P ython The Amethystine or Scrub Python is Australia’s largest python. Specimens have reportedly been measured at more than 8.5m (28ft.) in total length, but this is exceptional, as 5m (16ft.) specimens are already considered large. Morelia amethistina as it is properly known is a non-venomous constrictor species of snake that is also found in Indonesia and Papua New Guinea. The name of this snake is derived from the beautiful blue colour reflecting off the scales when seen in full sunlight.
Spending most of their time high in the rainforest canopies their diet generally consists of birds, fruit bats, rats, possums, and other small animals however larger specimens will catch and eat wallabies, waiting by creek and river banks for prey seeking drinking water. The body is relatively slim, unlike those of many other large members of the Python family. With a habitat that ranges from the coastal plains around Cairns, onto the Atherton Tablelands and up to the tip of Cape York this is truly magnificent species of snake.
AMPHIBIANS These animals' ancestors were the first to venture out from the water and adapt to life on land. Amphibian larvae are often aquatic and go through a complex metamorphosis process as they grow to adulthood. They have moist skin and do not have scales, feathers or hair. Amphibians and frogs in particular, make up a large proportion of the Cape York vertebrate species. While unseen throughout the day dusk bring the frogs out of hiding, particularly around the creeks and waterholes. Cape York is also home to the world’s largest frog.
White Lipped Green Tree Frog The White Lipped Green Tree Frog is the world’s largest tree frog; no wonder it is also known as the Giant Tree Frog. The dorsal surface of the entire body, including parts such as the head, limbs and the fingers are lime-green or bronze in colour with mature adults being up to 110mm (5.5in.) in body length not counting the length of the rear legs. There is a white streak on the entire lower lip, bestowing the species with its popular name. The lower surface of the body is either light pink or white in colour. The half-webbed fingers and fully webbed fingers help it to climb well. The White Lipped Tree Frog changes its colour at will and can assume colours such as olive-green, olive-brown or deep brown, especially at night. In Australia, this species is confined to Cape York and extended southern localities such as Ingham and Townsville. It is also wide-spread in the New Guinea region.
The Male call of this species is distinguished as a double note resembling that of a large barking dog. During the breeding season females can lay up to 1,000 eggs in clusters of 300-800 in aquatic habitats. Its development is complete in less than 30 days however females do not reproduce until 2 to 3 years of age.
MAMMALS With over 30 species of bats and flying foxes, kangaroos and agile wallabies, dingoes, quolls, bandicoots and possums, mammals make up a wide range of the wildlife of Cape York. Species such as the Bennett’s Tree Kangaroo, Lumholtz Tree Kangaroo and Spotted Couscous are not only rare but also endemic to the Cape York Region.
Spotted Cuscus It is an arboreal species that is native to Cape York Peninsula, islands of Ambonia and New Guinea. It lives in habitats such as rainforests, mangroves and eucalypt forests. It is nearly the size of a huge cat. Males are bestowed with a whitish coat that is adorned with brown spots, and females are white or grey with no spots; however, the quality, colour and texture might vary with the age and sex of the creature. It has a frizzy, prehensile tail which is furry on the top side of the tail; the tail’s lower half is covered with rough scales which allow it to clasp branches efficiently. It is an extremely shy and timid creature that prefers to hunt and eat at night, thus limiting its appearance during the day. Like its distant relative, the Sloth, it is an animal that uses minimal amounts of energy limiting the requirements for survival. Nest sites can be found in tree hollows, among rocks and underneath tree roots. The presence of the creature can be assumed because of its pungent odour. Males are likely to snarl, bark or make a hissing noise if they suspect the presence of another male or threat in their territory. They can be quite hostile and aggressive if challenged. Male Spotted Cuscus tends to mate year round with multiple partners.
The gestation period of this creature is less than two weeks, thirteen days to be precise. It has a pouch period of approximately six to seven months. It gives birth to up to three offspring at a time. The average life span of this species is eleven years.
Tree Kangaroo Found in both New Guinea and Cape York the Tree Kangaroo is the only macropod adapted to live in the rainforest canopy. There are 14 species of Tree Kangaroo with significant variations in sizes and colours. Sizes of head and body length can vary from 41 to 77cm (16 to 30in.), a tail length of 40 to 87cms (16 to 34in.), and a weight of up to 14.5kg (32lb.). Females are smaller than males. Most Tree Kangaroos are considered threatened due to hunting (New Guinea) and habitat loss. Quite slow and clumsy on the ground, in the trees they are an exceptionally agile animal, as they have specially adapted pads on their feet that allow it to move and climb swiftly. Wrapping the forelimbs around a tree or branch they use their powerful back legs to propel themselves. Branches can also be held firmly by their elongated tails. It is their ability to negotiate their way through the trees that makes the Tree Kangaroo exceptional. Downward jumps of up to 9m from tree to tree are not unusual and they are able to leap from the trees to the ground from heights of nearly 20m without injury. It is a nocturnal animal that mostly feeds on leaves and fruits. Generally they are solitary animals, but can sometimes feed in groups as well. Its reproductive cycle is similar to that of normal kangaroos, i.e. it gives birth to one offspring and rears it in its pouch.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Content Compiled & Written by: Mark Essenhigh & Sangeeta Thomas
Format and Design by: Jody Essenhigh
Photography by: Jody and Mark Essenhigh Previous guests – with thanks Geoff Lillis, Sarah Bullen, Mr & Mrs Innes Tony Frankland (Tour Guide) Some photos have been sourced from the Net – again with thanks
In Closing I hope that the information contained has helped to give you an idea of, not just the importance of the environment of Cape York but, the beauty and diversity of this incredible destination. The Cape is not just about the scenery - the people that live here are an integral part of what makes it so special. Indigenous communities, whom while having the trappings of the modern world, still live by cultural values that trace their beginnings to the dawn of time. Graziers, who accept that with their tenure comes a responsibility to care and maintain the land in its natural state. And of course the visitors who venture into this area with a sense of adventure and awe at undertaking one of Australia’s last great journeys. Regards, Mark