How interesting things can get when you research somethnig and find out that what you knew has no relevance whatsoever. This happened to me after I was asked to look back at a time in my life and what I thought to be my knowledge base, was actually a load of bollocks. I wont divuldge what it was to save me embarrassment. There will be no such ramblings going on with this issue as we continue to bring you a look around each corner in gents culture and todays lifestyle choices for you like minded individuals. We have a great interview with the man behind 6876 Kenneth Mackenzie, 12th man have sent us some exclusive information regarding SS12 stock and it looks promising too. There is an insight into our community with some great content from our members. I shall be looking at how AW11 season is shaping up and looking at how gentlemen's perception around buying is changing. We give you the best places around to shop and find bargains. Relax and kick back, we hope you enjoy this issue as much as we enjoyed putting it together. Peace Offhand...
If we could change what we do : What would you do if you could change the way we go about our shit in life? I personally do not honestly think I would change much, I feel like I have lived life to the full, maybe not to the best of my ability, but I have certainly explored most avenues and still here today. Everything that has materialised in my life I feel that I have given it 100% and left me satisfied with my achievements, Life is as hard as you make, you set your level, the expectation, One of the great things is when you know you are doing something which feels right and enjoying your moment, too many folk in this generation constantly moan about life anddo nothing to change their ways, Society as it is does not bode well for the future, in an age of less physical communication and more working hours even teenagers are feeling the strain and pressure. Peoples perception are becoming obsessed with accomplishing materialistic and egotisic ideas. We need to teach folk to slow the pace down and take life each day as it comes, not passing upon any opportunity because there is no reward in it for them, When Offhand was created it consisted of an idea, a conversation between 2 people who never knew each other to begin with, from an idea these 2 people let a meeting of minds manifest into a blog, with an effortless approach things developed organically and it became enjoyable. Then from another friend the forum was born and things started to take shape. The beauty of Offhand is : there is no plan, no direction. just a flow of ideas which we take the time to make happen. Now thats the strength of ideas, Today Offhand stands proud with an online presence and thriving community of like minded folk
After last season i got the feeling that us with a bit of savvy had finally learned to hold on to our hard earned instead of jumping in and buying our clobber on the fly. when your used to paying anywhere between ÂŁ300 to ÂŁ750 on a jacket and ÂŁ250 for a decent pair of shoes each month, you begin to shop around and look for the best option online. Now things are changing, especially as it seems that most shops today are all stocking the same brands and its no longer exclusive or limited. so this leaves us with an option, wait until the sales, you know its going to be there because everywhere is selling them, A few years ago I would be rushing to grab an Engineered Garments shirt from upon its release from its only stockists Oi Polloi, just so I wouldnt miss out, now we dont have to do this. I could name a dozen stockists for the more eclectic gear I wear so unless I really need, and we never really need anything, I will wait till the battle begins and get 50/60% off in the end of season sales. Its not just me, its seems a lot of folk are doing this especially on the higher end pieces and outerwear. There is no longer the battle for style supremacy, all it takes is a watchful eye on all the online stores waiting to see who folds first and drops the prices. The sales are beginning much earlier too which helps us even more to save the pennies. The question is, Is it a shame its come to this?, what effect is this going to have on shops or the consumer? Knowing the mark up on clothing it certainly brings down the margins for profit,
Personally now I have a little more maturity and dont feel the need to prove myself with the contents of my wardrobe all of this is good for me, There will always be gents out there that will buy instantly if they want that certain item, but now the exclusivity and unlimited access to these products has opened my eyes and I can now bide my time before hastily adding to my collection. Everybody stocks everything in todays market and there is no longer any exclusivity, not even entering the realms of Nanimica or Cabourn do you get a unique piece do to its widespread availability online. The only way nowadays is to wait for some sample sale or sift through the archives. The thing is, its now a part of culture for folk to pay up towards ÂŁ500 for a smart jacket or near on ÂŁ300 for a pair of handmade shoes. Now then we see why it makes so much sense to wait and hold on for those sales which come around so fast and save your money because buying in this league takes some seriously hard graft.
- Its all you need and will want much more when you visit. - Great store for more of the same with a healthy selection. - Follow this oddbod for laughs a plenty. - Very nice japanese brand and one to watch, t - The sleeping Italian giant creating some beautiful outerwear for SS12
In the history of British House music few labels were as important as the Junior Boys Own imprint. The label began life as ‘Boys Own Recordings’ in 1991, and was run by Andrew Weatherall, Terry Farley, Pete Heller and Steven Hall - miscreants involved with the infamous Boys Own fanzine and parties which formed an indelible mark on the early British rave scene. Whilst Boys Own was primarily a music fanzine it’s archaic articles covered all manner of topics, not least football. A Chelsea diehard Terry Farley was there long before the free flags and corporate hospitality and in this interview discusses the changing face of fashion at the match and in the club since his Soul Boy days in the 1970s. -
- The early soul scene went through many changes fashion wise very very quickly from its explosion in 75. The most common haircuts were a wedge or number 2 cropped hair paired with peg trousers, mohair jumpers... in fact most of what became Punk in 76 was worn first by the more adventurous Soul Boys but after the 76 punk split where half the crowd went off and pogo'ed for a year it settled down to a very sportswear/‘casual’ look. Top pieces included Fiorucci jeans, Adidas t shirts, deerstalkers, hacking jackets etc and later (around 1979) Burberry trenchcoats , Lacoste polo's became more popular. The right wing influence down here definitely held back the style explosion though as the 'proto casuals' in Farahs/Gabichis were considered nigger lovers... wiggers in todays terms - Around 1980 a 'London football ' look developed. Mainly this was based on MA1 jacket, Lois jeans with a seam stitched in, Lonsdale short-sleeve multi colored sweatshirts and Gabichi crew necks. I suppose this look morphed into 'Casual' around 82.
- The thing was you couldn’t get into the best clubs like The Wag dressed 'football' so when warehouse parties such as Norman Jays 'Shake ‘n’ Finger Pop ' came along in around 1985 a lot of lads saw it as a safer alternative to raves in the disco pubs along the Hackney Road (where a war took place almost every weekend between West Ham’s ICF and Arsenals Herd) or the Old kent rd where the music was cool but you were never that far away from some meathead with a broken glass. -
-Yeah, before 19988 House was a real niche movement in london. The black kids hated their Hip Hop and Rare Groove being replaced by music they regarded as 'homo' or 'white shit', they even built a cage at Delirium in 1987 to stop the dj being hit by bottles! There were exceptions such as the amazing Pyramid, Stallions or when Delirium moved to heaven but the masses down here did not want to lose control of the musical diet. -
- It certainly helped and its a cliche but the Wackers (Millwall) did promote nights in Downham where their bitter enemies the 6.57 (Portsmouth) attended and the ICF were everywhere but still being sneaky c*nts and making money and trouble rather than love n peace! -
- I share a season ticket at Chelsea and enjoy the match as much as ever but the day out just aint the same as it was when all your mates always have somewhere to nip off to after. Clothing wise most of the stuff I really like I can’t afford anymore but these days I’d rather have ONE pair of shoes such as Trickers brogues than 6 pairs of Adidas which anyone can get in JD Sports... like most elderly gentlemen I’m rocking the Ivy league look … albeit rather badly!
Get ups. Its simple, we use our napper, gather our thoughts & unleash the creativity to put together some choice garments that not only compliment other but show stlye and whats about for you fine gentlemen this season.
Mackintosh Edwin Oliver Spencer Quoddy Braun
Chris Barroccu. I have been lucky enough to be introduced to a man who shares a pssion for creativity and one line of work I have the upmost respect for, photography, capturing the moment and an image so beautiful it is an art and something which evokes memories and happiness for those who hire such people. Fabio introduced me to Chris after he directed and put together some press videos for 12thman, the result was excellent, capturing what Fabio has created. So as I have slowly got to know Chris, i thought why not explore his background with a few questions, He happily obliged.
Yes again we have another inspired brand using a hybrid of work & military wear. A Japanese label which produces two lines of quality craftmanship. It features - KURO, which leans towrds the more tailored look then there is DRAB which has evolved from their original military style, So we have another buzz word - " Hybrid " The concept appears simple, Modern and Evergreen, A comfortable and long lasting item with an essence of modernity creating garments through the soul of Japanese craftsmen whom are full of devotion and affection. Carrying the belief that work, military ethnic approach is a theme thats essential in todays mens culture, adding a spice of ethnic taste thus throwing in their military inspiration adds sophistication. Quite a bold statement, but I must say from what I have seen Corsaels does look promising, Over at Numbersixlondon they stock the Driving Jacket in a beautiful thick wool and stnace high collar with leather collar tab, A simple detail jacket which looks the part. Add to the collection some rather neat mountain gillets and in the japanese market more Parka's and Blazers which should soon make their way over here, things do look promising, Their mountain parka is a fine example of unique craftmanship, with its three in one removable inner and pocket detail. Definately our favourite piece so far. Check out the Fox hunter, a three quarter short jacket with six front pockets and two tone material dyeing for something different. Nip over to www.Corsaels.com and www.Numbersixlondon.com for more...
R Ræburn conceived a capsule of 8 items, each to be produced in a hand-numbered limited edition of 100 pieces. ‘The project is a fantastic opportunity to align the innovation and individuality of the Christopher Ræburn brand with the heritage and quality of Victorinox’, says Ræburn. ‘Built to last, the resulting garments constructed from re-appropriated Swiss military fabrics are a celebration of craft and a reaction to fast fashion. REMADE IN SWITZERLAND is truly unique’. When visiting the Victorinox factory, Ræburn discovered the house where Karl Elsener, the founder of the brand, established his workshop in 1884 and created the Original Swiss Army Knife. Ræburn and the Victorinox team decided to set up a Swiss LAB on that very site for the production of the capsule collection. Ræburn later sourced used sewing machines and equipment to furnish the Swiss LAB and invited local tailors and apprentices to work alongside his expert machinists to realize the final REMADE IN SWITZERLAND products. Christopher Ræburn is a young UK designer known for his pioneering work creating ethically aware and innovative men’s and womenswear collections from reappropriated military fabrics. An MA graduate of the prestigious Royal College of Art in 2006, Ræburn launched in 2008 his label utilising decommissioned military stocks of uniform and parachute fabrics to create functional, intelligent, and meticulously crafted garments. Ræburn’s namesake designs are proudly REMADE IN ENGLAND in his small East London production facility.
Ræburn’s intellectual aesthetics, exceptional quality and fastidious attention to detail caught the eye of Victorinox, creators of the Original Swiss Army Knife. The brand commissioned him to create a REMADE IN SWITZERLAND capsule collection for Autumn / Winter 2011. Ræburn first visited the Victorinox factory in Ibach, Switzerland. He also explored several ‘Liq Stores’, as local military surplus stores are known, to source fabrics and inspiration for the capsule collection. Ræburn returned to his London studio armed with samples of the surplus stock and began the process of deconstruction. By taking apart the existing garments, he found inspiration and ideas to create new ones, re-imagining unexpected uses for the old and challenging the concept of what is considered new. A rare find was a box of horseshoe nails that became the symbol of the project for Ræburn. He challenged Victorinox to recast that nail into scales for an Original Swiss Army Knife to complement the project. The nail also inspired a print used for linings and other graphic treatments. Among this amazing collection Raeburn has chosen a very unique approach to create and reinvent well known attire, You will find an Officers Parka, Parachute Hoodie and a Duffle Backpack, This collection would not be complete without the Horseshoe Nail Knife which he interprets perfectly.
Northern Monkeys Keep an eye out for a great book compiled by a certain unsung hero who has put together some great stories by gents who have lived through generations and movements, All manner of culture is covered with some tasty characters baring their soul. I was lucky enough to be asked to contribute to the book.
Batten Sportswear. Shinya Hasawega has near enough the perfect resume in my humble opiniion, Tokyo born and schooled in New York where he completed his fashion education, Its here where the real fun started, Working for Woolrich Woolen Mills under thre guidance of Daiki Suzuki, Shinya honed his skills and appetite while amassing a very enviable collection of US surfwear and vintage outdoor gear. You can clearly see the inspiration for his wonderful pastel colours on shows with his latest venture ; Batten Sportswear. Quite a few select brands and stockists are eager to see what Shinya has come up with for his first collection due SS12. He has kept things minimal yet colourful and creating simple but effective pieces ranging from pattern drop shorts, Exquisite logo T's and those fine pastel parkas. The shell parka is the pick for us, Such a great colour which contrasts so well with the gleaming white buttons. There is nothing which wants to stand out on these, They just get noticed with their cut and detail synonymous with many of todays parkas, except what makes Shinya creation different is the neat little idea of simply leaving the symmetrical upper chest pocket off andreplacing with a slant hand warmer, It works and gives the parka a different direction which ultimately makes them stand tall among its competitors.
It will be very interesting watching Batten develop amidst a resurgance of vintage outer & work wear currently doing the rounds, I had a chance to briefly catch up with Shinya, exchanging emails. He came across as a focused individual who wasnt giving much away, and I felt he didnt need to, as upto now it was the sight of his product which did the talking. A bright future is there for the taking, Batten has a wealth of knowledge and a archive of pieces to fall on to inspire the next seasons attire. We all know where Daiki ended up and what he is capable of, so feel that even if Shinya can create a shimmer of his teacher in an over saturated market, then he will have done very well. I can no doubt see the young guns of Japan lapping these up and if we are lucky enough to get them in a stockist in the Uk, they will definately be a massive success.
Over on Offhand community there was a certain thread started by one of our members titled " Pictures ", nothing too clever just layering great pictures from off the web and posting. Now when something like this catches on you tend to get other members posting their creative captures and ideas, The end result is lots of pages of our members perception on life and culture which almost tells a story. Its a grea thing to see evolve and there are some amazing snaps, We thought we would share a few over the page in a little collage.
enneth MacKenzie very kindly took some time out of his evening to chat to it is forbidden to forbid about his label 6876. 6876 has been a favourite of IIFTF for a long time so we jumped at the chance to speak to the man himself about the origins of the labels and what he has planned for the future.
Long story...after Graphics course in Dundee i did a fashion degree at Preston Polytechnic which had a one year placement which really got me started into thinking about fashion seriously and then i worked at Duffer for 5 years as sales director,eventually i just wanted to work for myself and utilizing my own ideas/concepts
The name came about due to the fact that i had a real dislike with regard brands being called after their owners/designers as i thought it was very egotistical. The idea of numbers came from street listings and then i wanted something that meant something to me and encapsulated a feeling of independence,so hence Paris 68 & punk rock..some people thought it very pretentious for a fashion brand others loved it so at least there was a reaction.
Its a reaction to being bogged down mentally/financially when we produced on a seasonal basis..basically it wasn't profitable or enjoyable so i decided to scrap that system & become more fluid which results in more time/ freedom to develop product plus its financially easier to work with.
The idea was to have our company as more of a design studio..we have our brand with is very specialist and then collaborations so with the Rsix accessories and the Rohan project we are using larger companies resources and sharing profits/royalties whilst concentrating on design/marketing. Rohan is a mini collection of 5 items..which are classic styles re-interpreted with Rohan.
Mostly its to progress and react against what's out there..at the moment i have a real feeling for an overtly modernist approach.
It happens allot but at the moment not so much as we are making direct to retail (apart from wholesale to Japan) so we have a sense of freedom in terms of design/resources but at a low key small level.
First step..learn at a brand large or small that can offer you experince you can then use later.
Myself? i am quite narrow i wear my own clothes and a very limited selection from others...Save Khaki chino's,RRL Jeans,Crockett & Jones/Alden shoes..and i love really technical outwear..its not that i am so arrogant i don't like other brands i am just influenced by other things.
That's very very difficult...one that many friends always name check ( one in the archive but i don't have one as i will soon re-make better!) is the double Harrington made in Italy around 2000 which is two jackets that button together but can exist as two separate jackets.
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