TO P R E STAU R ANTS | S-T SUSHI MASA Masa Nakayama can make or break the experience here. But when the sushi chef is in the right frame of mind, he’s equally funny, charming and eager to impress (though in a restrained and dignified way). Luckily, the quality of his sushi doesn’t depend on his mood; it’s always perfection, beginning with the addictive sushi rice. Recommended: smoked salmon chazuke, pickled eggplant sushi, grilled octopus tentacles. Best bet? Just let him choose. ——— Ward Centre; 593-2007. Lunch, dinner. $$$
SUSHI SASABUNE Skip this sushi restaurant if you don’t like being told what to eat and don’t have deep, deep pockets. But if your tastes are sophisticated and you’re willing to put yourself in the hands of a master, chef-owner Seiji Kumogawa is your man. Many say Sasabune was the best sushi experience of their lives. You can order off the menu but be prepared for a stern look from chef Seiji. ——— 1419 S. King St.; 947-3800. Lunch (Tuesday-Friday), dinner (closed Sunday). $$$-$$$$
SWEET HOME CAFE Reservations are a must here, but once seated, you’re in for an experience at this Taiwanese hotpot spot. Pick your broth, pick your ingredients, pick your sauce, cook your meal. (Don’t forget to burp politely.) Recommended: the spicy broth (no, maybe the curry broth), the dizzying selection of meats and veggies, the complimentary shave ice with tapioca and sweetened condensed milk. ——— 2334 S. King St.; 947-3707. Dinner. $$
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TAI PAN DIM SUM Don’t be surprised to find a lengthy wait for a seat in this cozy, busy restaurant, a favorite of dim sum aficionados. (You may even be asked to share your table.) Open early and cheap, cheap, cheap. Recommended: gnau yok (meatballs), mochi rice with pork, carrot mochi, shrimp and chive pancakes. ——— Chinese Cultural Plaza, 100 N. Beretania St.; 599-8899. Breakfast, lunch. $
TANAKA SAIMIN It should be no surprise that in Hawaii there’s enough interest in saimin that you could build a temple to the dish in a huge space off a busy highway and expect to fill it. Tanaka Saimin was opened last year by the same family that had run Boulevard Saimin on Dillingham since the ’50s. Here you can order your saimin large or small and customize your bowl with such extras as vegetables, won ton, teri beef or tempura. Or get a specialty bowl such as the Portuguese sausage version. Tanaka also has a large menu of sandwiches and platelunch favorites. Highly recommended: the oxtail saimin. ——— 888 N. Nimitz Highway, Kalihi; 524-2020. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. $$
TANGO CONTEMPORARY CAFE Chef Goran Streng’s bright, cheerful space near Ward Centre has drawn a faithful clientele captivated by his fresh Eurobistro creations. Try one of the innovative daily specials or dip into the well of favorites: duck confit, mushroom risotto, gravlax on Swedish rye bread or the deep and savory Asian Style Five-Spice Braised Beef. For a more casual taste of Streng’s fare, try his new Tango Market in Ward Centre. ——— 1288 Ala Moana Blvd. (in the Hokua complex), Kakaako; 593-7288;
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A bento from Tanioka’s in Waipahu. www.tangocafehawaii.com. Breakfast, lunch, dinner. $$-$$$
TANIOKA’S SEAFOODS & CATERING A seafood bar fused with an okazuya, this family market offers dozens of pointand-pick choices. The many oh-so-fresh poke are only the beginning. Pick out a musubi (with Spam, Goteborg Sausage from Kauai, teriyaki fish, mochiko chicken), add a piece of perfectly fried chicken, a salmon patty or a serving of corned beef hash. ——— 94-903 Farrington Highway, Waipahu; 671-3779; www.taniokas.com. Breakfast, lunch. Takeout only. $
strives for purity, serving up pure ground chuck burgers and straight-on fries, all made to order. Admittedly, they have a little fun: You can get peanut butter or grilled pineapple on your burger. And this is one of the few places you can still get a malt. ——— Koko Marina Center, 7192 Kalanianaole Highway, Hawaii Kai, 394-9100; 539 Kailua Road, 262-0820; 134 Kapahulu Ave., 9263444; 2424 S. Beretania St., Moiliili, 9490050; www.teddysbiggerburgers.com. Lunch, dinner. $-$$
TENKAIPPIN RAMEN Scott Suzui believes he has a remedy in a bowl. Over at Tenkaippin Ramen, the top seller is the kotteri ramen, with a chicken broth thickened with chicken collagen gleaned from boiling down bones and feet for hours. The result is intense chicken flavor in a broth that with noodles, made locally from a secret recipe exclusive to Tenkaippin, is thick enough to plant your chopsticks. Recommended: Kotteri ramen, assari ramen, miso ramen. ——— 617 Kapahulu Ave.; 732-1211. Lunch, dinner. $$
THAI HERB KITCHEN See Newbies, Page 67.
TAORMINA SICILIAN CUISINE Southern Italian food often gets a bad rap in the United States, but you can see what it’s all about at Taormina — and it’s not just tomato gravy. No cream sauces or butter here, just the bright, palate-teasing flavors of tomatoes, fresh herbs, garlic, fresh cheeses and fruity olive oil. Recommended: Bucatini Fresh Sardine, Sauteed Cod with Fava Bean Souffle, mushroom risotto served with foie gras. ——— 227 Lewers St., Waikiki; 926-5050; www.taorminarestaurant.com. Lunch, dinner. $$$
TED’S BAKERY See Sweet Stuff, Page 51.
TEDDY’S BIGGER BURGERS This ’50s-style, Hawaii-only chain
THELMA’S RESTAURANT This busy, no-frills, family-friendly restaurant serves up inexpensive Filipino standards with both buffet and table service. Recommended: pork adobo, squid guisantes, lechon kawali, halo halo dessert. ——— Westgate Shopping Center, 94-366 Pupupani St., Waipahu; 677-0443; www.thelmas restaurant.com. Lunch, dinner. $
TO CHAU It’s all about the broth at To Chau. This restaurant is all things pho, although they do serve a few rice and bun dishes. Customers line up outside day after day, eager for the huge portions, richly flavored broth and rock-bottom prices. ——— 1007 River St.; 533-4549. Lunch. $
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