PERFECT FIT
FASHION INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY
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TECHNICAL DESIGN: CHANGING THE PLAYING FIELD OF FASHION
Dorelle McPherson As a part of the design team or even a production team at some companies, technical designers must know the inner workings of a garment and how to properly size a garment for the firm’s target market. Knowledge of design, textiles, communication and pattern-making, make up a catalog of the knowledge needed to succeed in Technical Design. Many firms discovered the need for such a position through trial and error over the years, while others jumped on the band wagon from the start.
Students pattern making; courtesy of the FIT brochure committee.
F
ashion design is yet another industry that is changing by means of new and innovative technologies. Over the past 20 years, a new profession– which focuses on the technical aspects of building a garment, has emerged with a bang. Since the days when the technological and manufacturing presence in the USA began to shift overseas, Technical Design and the position of the Technical Designer has become key to the manufacturing processes of many design firms, which is why FIT began offering this field of study as a major last year. A technical designer’s job can be defined as the liaison who effectively translates a designer’s ideas by giving them size and detail specifications, measurements and construction details, to the firm’s manufacturing team.
Firms that use technical designers usually manufacture overseas. Hong Kong, Shanghai, India, Mexico and even Korea, countries where some of the largest manufactures of US apparel reside, need a point of contact that can effectively transcribe the manufacturing processes and properly execute many of the styles we see on the runway and, ultimately, in the stores. This is the number one reason for the explosion in this job market. Computer Aided Design, also known as CAD, is also a field that has helped the Technical Design aspects of a fashion house become more innovative and vital within the firm. A company called Gerber Technologies, part of the Gerber Scientific Group is an innovator in computer programs. It has integrated the Technical Design, Pattern Making and Manufacturing fields and made them a vertical computerized operation. Computer programs like Web PDM (Web Product Data Manager) is able to take a fashion technical package (sketches, measurement and details on fabric, trim and finishing) and translate it overseas in an instant using an online web system. This same information system is in place to actually plot and correct patterns in an instant with just a few
clicks on a mouse. This fast turnaround via technology has made it possible for many retailers to create the rapid turnarounds of product placement on the shelves, adding to their commercial success. The next innovation in Web design software is the creation of the 3-D fit model. This collaboration between companies like AccuMark and Vstitcher, along with Gerber Technologies, is able to take the 2-D flat pattern –complete with technical measurements– and turn it into a 3-D image that is wrapped around a virtual fit model. Fit corrections can be done in an instant via international video conference call. With all of this innovation, it is no wonder that FIT would offer the first SUNY BS in Technical Design. FIT started the Technical Design Degree program two semesters ago, now has close to 60 applicant and is still growing. On October 28th 2010, Deborah Beard, Acting Associate Chair of the re-christened Technical Design department (it used to be called Patternmaking) gave an information session for FIT Students interested in learning more about the BS major, covering the ins and outs of the field and the major. The intent to grow the program is energized by the growing market for technical designers in the work force. StyleCareers.com, one of the key industry fashion job search sites, lists an average of 80 jobs daily in Technical Design. An entry level Technical Designer can make $40,000 annually and it is a profession that reaches the six-figure salary mark for seasoned professionals. A few bridge courses and core courses are specifically designed to give the student the right tools to enter the work force as a technical designer.
THE JOURNAL OF AMBER ALERT: FROM CONWAY TO CARTIER
Amber Alert
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ow, what an amazing journey this has been for me as Miss FIT 2010. When I was just a young girl from Upstate NY dreaming of being the couture buyer for CVS, I never thought I would become such an international sex symbol. Attending the Fashion Institute of Technology for Fashion Merchandising Management was one of the best decisions of my life and, in between making
Macy’s Power Points and drunken one-night stands at Tempest Bar, I was able to show the world what I’m made of by competing to become Queen of FIT.
always allowed me to grow as an individual and even let me borrow her sequined bra last year! Just kidding, but thanks anyway President Brown. *winky face*
After winning the Miss FIT 2010 Pageant, I was not prepared for what was to come. Countless booty calls from Aramark employees and even a $12 shopping spree at Conway was just the tip of the iceberg. I went on to compete in other local pageant competitions and won titles including Ms. Yonkers International 2010 as well as Ms. Lincoln Tunnel Ultimate Grand Supreme. This success landed me guest appearances on the popular TV shows including Jon and Kate Plus 8 as Asian Baby #6, Sister Wives as Wife #4, and even had a surprise guest spot on Dateline NBC: to Catch a Predator.
For those of you young ladies wanting to fight for the crown of Miss FIT 2011, and who would like to try and be as beautiful as me, keep on the lookout for posters around campus regarding special meetings and audition times. Xoxo, Amber Alert
I get thousands of emails a day asking me about where I get my fashion inspiration. I would have to say that Jon Benet Ramsey and Buffalo Bill are my idols. They have always had vibrant color palettes, and haven’t been afraid to incorporate sparkle or use alternative fabrics. I would not be here without a few special people in my life. I would first like to give a special thanks to the poster of Emilia Earhart in the C-Building computer lab for providing years of motivation to reach for the stars, and to Ratika from the C-Building café for her words of wisdom. But most importantly, I would like to thank the “Big J” upstairs who hears my prayers Amber Alert at Homecoming and winning her crown last and leads me on the right path, Joyce Brown. She has May; courtesy photos.