LI BATI O N S | B E E R
By Amanda Younger
ONCE THE NATIONAL LEADER IN THE BREWING INDUSTRY, NEW YORK SUFFERED A DRY CENTURY AS CROPS FAILED AND BREWERS EXITED THE MARKET. NOW, WITH THE DRIVE AND GRIT CHARACTERISTIC OF THE EMPIRE STATE, THE BIG APPLE IS HOPPING BACK IN THE GAME WITH AGRICULTURAL INNOVATION AND CRAFTY TAPS FROM DEDICATED BREWERS LIKE BRONX BREWERY.
One cannot begin talking about beer in America without mentioning New York City. The Dutch West India Company started the first brewery in what is now Lower Manhattan back in 1612. From then on, immigrants from the Netherlands, England, and Germany arrived, cementing the strength of brewing in the city until 1976, when the last producing brewery closed. But what happened to such a strong industry? Largely attributable to the feverish growth of brewing in the area, by the late 1800s New York’s booming hop industry had reached peak acreage—around 40,000 acres—as the state boasted more than 90% of U.S. hop production. Sadly, boom turned bust as the crops were effectively eradicated, the result of infestation and disease. Cornell Cooperative Extension (CCE) of Madison County, the agricultural program trying
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to resurrect hop production in New York, explains, “There were several pests that had a devastating effect on hops in the 19th century, including the hop aphid and two funguses called downy mildew and powdery mildew. Hop aphids and downy mildew were disastrous to hop growers because there was little information on their management and even fewer tools.” Fast forward over 100 years and the Empire State is recultivating her once massive hop industry. CCE notes, “Now, with the strong demand for craft beer, there is a resurgence of hop production in New York. With the help of some state funding, Cornell University and CCE are conducting variety trials, working on sprayer technology, and providing up-to-date information to growers to help them produce the best quality hops for New York breweries.” The rebirth and growth of New York’s hop crop has led to explosive growth in New York City’s revitalized and burgeoning community of brewers. The NYC Brewers Guild, a local industry cooperative, has grown to 17 members in just a few years. One member—where the art and science of beer comes together—is BRONX BREWERY. Chris Gallant, General Manager, believes, “Craft beer has gotten too serious. Beer isn’t something you overanalyze alone in your basement; it's something to taste, discuss, and share—and most importantly enjoy—among friends.” That belief drove Gallant and a group of friends to grow into their own brewhouse in the Bronx. Starting off as tenant brewers, carting kegs of their infamous Pale Ale from Connecticut to NYC in a used Red Bull truck, the team now boasts four seasonal brews and four
year-round brews, as well as a growing list of unique offerings aged in a variety of barrels: bourbon, brandy, wine, and even mezcal and gin. What’s on tap right now? Just in time for the warmer weather ahead, their staff favorite Summer Pale Ale is currently in the works. Making use of plump British and American two row malts with still-numbered-haven’t-been-named-yet experimental hops, this liquid gold goes through a dry hop process with dried lemon peels adding a strong citrus nose and a nice crisp finish.
BRONX BREWERY’S BOLD, BRIGHTLY COLORED CANS AND TAPS CAN CURRENTLY BE FOUND THROUGHOUT THE GREATER NEW YORK CITY AREA.
BREWERY LOCATION 856 E. 136th St. Bronx, NY 10454 TASTING ROOM HOURS WED–FRI: Opens at 3 p.m. SAT–SUN: Opens at 12 p.m. COMMUNITY PARTNERS Bronx Documentary Center South Bronx United Bronx Museum To learn more about CCE’s Program, email Hop Specialist Steve Miller at sgm6@cornell.edu. Purchase kegs directly from the brewery by emailing tastingroom@thebronxbrewery.com.