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YOUR NORTH SHORE GUIDE to EXCEPTIONAL CUISINE
Service complements cuisine
Chris Dagenais
The Dish
ROMANCING THE STOVE Angela Shellard presents recipes that INDIAN KIT CHEN featureKITCHEN cinnamon Healthy Authentic page 52Cuisine 1734 Marine Drive, West Van
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604.281.4411
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I took an instant liking to Swad Indian Kitchen, the newest addition to West Vancouver’s dining scene. First of all, the interior is stunning, the sort of room that makes you take pause when you first enter. Or, at least, I took pause, perhaps because I didn’t expect it to look so elegant, with its thoughtful design elements, including an imposing, stylized, two-dimensional rendering of an old growth tree stump, its moody lighting, plush seating, highend stemware and flatware, immaculately uniformed staff and glass ensconced entrance. My expectations of the restaurant were different, I suspect, because Swad occupies the space formerly inhabited by Maurya, another Indian restaurant I enjoyed as well, but one that had a more rustic esthetic. Maurya felt like an everyday casual diner; Swad feels like a special occasion hotspot. At Swad, men in dark suits work the room like seasoned pros, keeping their practiced eyes on all aspects of the dining experience, greeting and engaging with guests, answering menu questions, flagging empty glasses to servers, and providing an overall sense of polish. Floor staff don crisp white aprons, white collared shirts and ties and move swiftly through the room; it is clear that the ownership here has a singular vision for Swad Indian Kitchen, one that is informed by very high standards. That commitment to excellence was evidenced in every aspect of my recent meal there with my wife
my DJ. We left the restaurant swiftly through the room; it feeling and spoke is clear elated that the ownership of our meal the whole wayfor here has a singular vision home.Indian Since that meal,one I Swad Kitchen, have advised almost everyone that is informed by very high I know who eats food to go standards. check this place out. Ifto my That commitment descriptions have seemed in excellence was evidenced unusually complimentary every aspect of my recent so far, it is with good meal there with myreason; wife Swad is left a special spot and DJ. We the restaurant I am excited seespoke it catch feeling elatedto and on.our Someal if mythe summary of my of whole way meal is passionate, please home. Since that meal, I rest assured it is not hyperbolic. have advised almost everyone We primarily I know who eats tend food to to go encounter Punjabi fare check this place out. If my in Vancouver’s Indian descriptions have seemed restaurants, a phenomenally unusually complimentary so flavourful, sauce-focused far, it is with good reason; culinary that and Swad is atradition special spot use ofto certain Imakes am excited see it spice catch combinations that haveofcome on. So if my summary my to represent what the westrest meal is passionate, please usually means “Indian assured it is notbyhyperbolic. food.” menu, We Swad’s primarily tend to however, isPunjabi informed by encounter fare numerous regional styles of in Vancouver’s Indian India and includes Punjabi, restaurants, a phenomenally Bengali, Kashmiri, Kerali, flavourful, sauce-focused and Hyderabadi culinary traditioninfluences. that The restaurant also boasts makes use of certain spice a solid wine and beverages combinations that have come listrepresent with food-oriented, to what the west by-the-glass pours, fruitusually means by “Indian forward heavy-hitters food.” Swad’s menu, from Californiaistoinformed marry with however, by the richer, meatier menu dishes, numerous regional styles of a creative and a India and cocktail includeslist Punjabi, good selection of whiskies. Bengali, Kashmiri, Kerali, and I forfeited andDJ Hyderabadi influences. appetizers in favour of a The restaurant also boasts broader sampling of mains. a solid wine and beverages Firstwith up food-oriented, was an incredible list Bengali Curry, which by-the-glass pours, fruitfeatured heavy-hitters sizeable chunks forward from of pan-seared, flaky with whitethe California to marry fish in ameatier succulent, velvety richer, menu dishes, and vibrant orange sauce a creative cocktail list and a boasting flavours mustard good selection of of whiskies. andDJ cream. and IBengali forfeitedcuisine is known for use of appetizers in its favour of a mustard seeds andofmustard broader sampling mains. oil, with signature Firstalong up was anaincredible regional spice blend Bengali Curry, whichcalled Panch Phoran. Swad, featured sizeableAtchunks these ingredients were of pan-seared, flaky white deftly creating fish inhandled, a succulent, velvety tremendous depth of flavour and vibrant orange sauce that had me mopping up all remaining sauce with rice, naan and, when these resources were inevitably depleted, a spoon. Next up was Swad Palak Kofta, a complex and heady dish of puffed spinach dumplings with raisins and nuts in a thick and leafy
Swad Indian Kitchen owner Kamal Mroke and chef Sunil Dutt in the dining room at the newly opened West Vancouver restaurant on Marine Drive. PHOTO PAUL MCGRATH boastingsauce. flavours of mustard spinach It has always and cream. Bengali cuisine been my contention that is known for itscreates use ofthe Indian cuisine mustard seeds and mustard most flavourful vegetarian oil, along withculinary a signature dishes of any regional spice blend called tradition and this Palak Kofta offered further support for that idea. The final dish, Moogdum Kebab, featured three large, bone-in chicken thighs marinated in yogurt and fine cashew paste, cooked in the intense and even heat of the tandoor and served with a simple wedge
Panch Phoran. At Swad, of lemon and some grated thesecabbage. ingredients were raw Some of you deftly be handled, creating might thinking: What, you tremendous depth ofIflavour ordered the chicken? know, hadit’s meuncharacteristic mopping up Ithat know, allaremaining sauce what with is of foodie to order conventionally the safe dish on any menu, but it came recommended and let me tell you, it was absolutely spectacular. The marinade tenderized the meat to a perfect supple texture and infused it liberally with lush and aromatic notes of garlic; so very simple, yet so very
rice, naan and, when these delicious. resources inevitably A privatewere dining space is depleted, spoon.groups in available fora larger Nextofupthe was Swad Palak the back restaurant. Our meal of three entrees, See Haas rice, naan and chai tea page was 53 $67 before gratuity. Swad Indian Kitchen 1734 Marine Drive swadindiankitchen.ca 604-281-4411
OPEN FOR LUNCH & DINNER
INDIAN KITCHEN
Healthy Authentic Cuisine
Lunch –11am to 2:30pm • Dinner – 5 pm to 10 pm Call: 604.281.4411 • 1734 Marine Drive, West Vancouver
www.SwadIndianKitchen.ca