GASTRO BOTANICA by Marc Tan Images courtesy of Corner House
One of the restaurants topped for big things in 2015 is Corner House, located in the Botanic Gardens. This charming restaurant, open since late last year, sits in an old colonial black and white house, once home to botanist E J H Corner, who worked at the gardens up until the Second World War. Lovingly preserved, the interior design of the ground floor is not far removed from how he would have lived, and photographs of Corner at home, and the plants he was studying, adorn the walls. Split over two levels, the lower floor housing the bar, hall area and kitchen, and the upper floor the dining space, Corner House o ers the unique opportunity of enjoying me in one of these historical abodes. Whereas Singapore’s ubiquitous shop-houses have been transformed into restaurants by the hundreds, it’s a rare pleasure to dine in such an atmospheric black and white house. The dining area uses its space well - diners are not squeezed in to fit more tables but in contrast given lots of room to take in the scene. With alcoves and converted balconies, there is lots of available privacy. Given its prime loca on in Singapore's oldest and grandest garden, views from the upstairs windows are blessed with natural surroundings. During the day, birds swoop and bu erflies flu er in the surrounding green canopy, making it a very relaxing place for a leisurely lunch. In the evenings, the dining room o ers one of the most roman c loca ons in town for a gastronomic journey par excellence. With its loca on and heritage firmly wedged
in the past, the kitchen o ers the very opposite. Although Chef Jason Tan was schooled in classic French cuisine, his menu is a burst of modern crea vity and method. Labelled ‘gastro-botanica’ the menu is not vegetarian but pays homage to nature’s finest ingredients, whether imported meats, prime vegetables or edible flowers from the garden. Chef Tan’s background provides the ideal pla orm for him to release his crea ve flair and culinary knowledge at Corner House. Having worked most recently with Jus n Quek at Sky on 57 at Marina Bay Sands, a er s nts in the dis nguished kitchens of Joel Robuchon, Julien Bombard and the Mandarin Oriental, he has developed a unique signature cuisine, which he approaches at Corner House with rigour. As is the case for all top restaurants, the quality of the ingredient is key. At Corner House, Chef Tan celebrates the flavours and textures of simple vegetables like the tomato, the beetroot and his favourite, the onion, by preparing each ingredient in contras ng ways. All are sourced from the best providers available, beau fully prepared and presented with passion – don’t miss his amazing onion tea or the onion puree with sous-vide egg, onion confit and shaved black tru e, served in a hollowed-out onion shell. His tender Japanese A5 Omi Beef, presented as a splash
of raw colour on an ar st’s pale e, is served with varia ons of beetroot, raw, boiled or baked with a Comte topping. His tomato varia on is just an inven ve, ranging from cherry tomatoes marinated in basil and honey or mint and sour plum, to his fragrant tomato cloud, sorbet and confit. Dishes at Corner House do not overpower or in midate but achieve a fine balance flavours are light, honest and celebratory. His lobster with riso pasta, sautéed squid and burnt leeks is a wonderful blend of flavours, likewise the pre-dessert palate cleanser of passion fruit reisling jelly, marinated pineapple, tapioca pearl with cardamom and a basil lime sorbet. Like each preceding course, dessert is a work of art that you feel guilty destroying with an eager spoon. Don’t miss the Cocoa Pebbles, chocolate mousse with lemon curd, served on bed of chocolate soil with mandarin sorbet, mushroom meringue and lightly pickled shimiji – exquisite! Corner House is set to become very popular very quickly, so we’d advise trying it as soon as possible. Reserva ons recommended!
Corner House, Singapore Botanic Gardens (Nassim Gate), tel: 6469 1000, cornerhouse.com.sg
www.nowsingapore.co.id FEBRUARY - MARCH 2015 53