July 2023 - Up Norway

Page 1

$5 USD Est. May 17, 1889 • Formerly Norwegian American Weekly, Western Viking & Nordisk Tidende Volume 134, #07 • July 7, 2023
The
on
west
is only one of many stunning and unique
you can
Photo courtesy of Up Norway
fishing village of Kålvåg
Norway’s
coast
destinations that
discover with the Up Norway travel agency.
– Herbert Herding-Herberth See story on pages S1-S3
« Sol ute, sol inne, sol i hjertet, sol i sinnet. » UP NORWAY

Nyheter

Rekordmange studerer i utlandet

Det har aldri vært så mange norske utvekslingsstudenter i utlandet som nå, men færre tar hele graden sin utenlands.

Studieåret 2022–2023 får 22.400 norske studenter lån og stipend fra Lånekassen til utdanning i utlandet. Hele 8.600 av dem er på utveksling, som er flere en noen gang før. Antallet gradsstudenter er imidlertid lavere enn før pandemien. Storbritannia og Danmark er fortsatt to av de mest populære studiedestinasjonene. Australia øker mest i popularitet.

Medisinstudier er mest populært blant gradsstudenter i utlandet, etterfulgt av naturvitenskap og teknologi, og økonomi og administrative fag. (NTB)

Positive til flyktninger i hjemkommunen

Flere ønsker at hjemkommunen deres skal bosette flere flyktninger enn før krigen i Ukraina brøt ut, viser en undersøkelse.

I november 2021 var andelen som ønsket dette 44%. I mars 2023 var andelen 58%. Det viser en undersøkelse Institutt for samfunnsforskning (ISF) har gjennomført på oppdrag fra Integreringsog mangfoldsdirektoratet (Imdi).

På spørsmål om hvordan det går med integreringen i Norge, mener tre av ti at det går meget eller ganske bra. Før krigen var andelen to av ti.

(NTB)

Vil forby e-sigaretter med smak

For å hindre at unge begynner med e-sigaretter vil regjeringen forby smakstilsetninger og innføre krav om standardisert innpakning.

Helse- og omsorgsminister Ingvild Kjerkol (Ap) sier i en pressemelding at hun vil forby e-sigaretter og gjenoppfyllingsbeholdere med aroma samt separate beholdere med smakstilsetning ment for e-sigaretter.

(NTB)

Flere eldre skal kunne bo hjemme

En ny hjemmetjeneste, et eget eldreboligprogram og bedre planlegging skal føre til at den økende andelen eldre i Norge skal få en bedre alderdom.

Det går fram av eldrereformen “Fellesskap og meistring – bu trygt heime” som regjeringen la fram 16. juni. Reformen inneholder viktige tiltak som skal legge bedre til rette for eldre i samfunnet og sørge for at de skal kunne bo hjemme lenger.

Mot 2040 vil andelen eldre over 80 år i Norge øke med nesten en kvart million mennesker, mer enn en dobling fra i dag.

(NTB)

USA åpner utenriksstasjon i Tromsø

Vil styrke arbeidet i det høye nord

NTB

USA styrker sin tilstedeværelse i nord og åpner et diplomatisk kontor i Tromsø.

Det er en såkalt presence post som åpnes i Tromsø. Det er en mindre diplomatisk tilstedeværelse og kan tilsvare et konsulat.

— Jeg erklærer i dag at USA vil åpne et eget kontor i Tromsø. Det vil bli vår nordligste diplomatiske tilstedeværelse, sa USAs utenriksminister Antony Blinken på en pressekonferanse under Natos uformelle møte i Oslo 1. juni.

Han sier kontoret er et ledd i å forsterke arbeidet i det høye nord. Kontoret blir det eneste nord for polarsirkelen.

— Vår tilnærming er at vi vil sørge for at Arktis forblir et sted for fredfullt samarbeid. Det er et sted som blir stadig mer utfordret og som det blir viktigere å beskytte, og det er vi bestemt på å gjøre, sier Blinken.

Tromsø-ordfører Gunnar Wilhelmsen (Ap) ønsker utenriksstasjonen velkommen. USA hadde et kontor i Tromsø fram til 1994.

— Etableringen av en amerikansk representasjon i Tromsø reflekterer at vi er tilbake

Foto: Javad Parsa / NTB / POOL USAs utenriksminister Antony Blinken annonserte på en pressekonferanse på Nasjonalmuseet i Oslo at USA vil åpne et kontor i Tromsø.

til en tid med økt geopolitisk spenning i nord. Gitt denne realiteten er det betryggende for alle oss som bor i nord, at vår viktigste allierte tar situasjonen på alvor og etablerer et kontor i den arktiske hovedstaden, sier Wilhelmsen i en pressemelding.

Ifølge ordføreren vil den nye utenriksstasjonen inkludere én amerikansk diplomat. Gjennom fysisk tilstedeværelse vil USA kunne overvåke utviklingen i nord tettere og øke situasjonsforståelsen, mener Wilhelmsen.

— USAs etablering av kontor i Tromsø kan fungere som avskrekking eksternt, men gi økt trygghet internt for Norge og for Natoalliansen, skriver han.

Også det norske utenriksdepartementet ansetter en person som skal jobbe i Tromsø, opplyser UD til NTB. Utenriksminister Anniken Huitfeldt (Ap) er fornøyd med beslutningen.

— Det er veldig positivt at amerikanerne etablerer seg her. De har vært her før, så det de faktisk gjør, er å reetablere seg, sier statsråden til NTB. Hun forteller at etableringen fører til at Norge og USA kan samarbeide enda mer konkret.

— Det blir viktig for vårt lederskap i Arktisk råd, men også når det gjelder universitetssamarbeid og mulighetene til å legge til rette for flere amerikanske besøk, sier Huitfeldt.

Wilhelmsen tror på et nærmere samarbeid når de to kontorene kommer på plass.

— USAs interesser i nordområdene er helt på linje med Norges og andre europeiske land, inkludert EU. Det handler om å samarbeide for sikkerhet og bærekraftig utvikling i Arktis, bekjempelse av klimaendringene og å fremme fred og stabilitet i nord, sier han.

English synopsis: The United States has announced plans to open a diplomatic station in Tromsø, Norway, to increase its presence in the Far North.

Begrenset vindu til å bygge opp forsvaret

Forsvarsministeren:

Eirik Kristoffersen mener at Russland ikke er direkte trussel mot Norge de neste årene.

— Vi bør bygge opp Forsvaret raskt i vinduet vi har nå, sier han.

— Situasjonen slik den er nå er at Russland ikke utgjør en direkte trussel mot Norge de neste årene. Russland har ikke kapasitet til et angrep på Norge i tradisjonell forstand per nå fordi de er veldig opptatt med krigen i Ukraina og har brukt store deler av landstyrkene sine der, sier forsvarssjef Eirik Kristoffersen til NTB.

Russland blir pekt på som den fremste trusselen mot Norge og norske interesser. Forsvarssjefen mener at Russlands angrep på Ukraina er et tidsskille ved at de er villig til å bruke omfattende og folkerettsstridig militærmakt for å nå sine mål.

Foto: Terje Pedersen / NTB

Forsvarsjef Eirik Johan Kristoffersen mener Norge har et begrenset vindu til å bygge ut forsvaret mens Russland kriger i Ukraina.

I forbindelse med invasjonen av Ukraina har Russland flyttet store styrker fra områdene i nord ved grensen til Norge for å sette dem inn i kamp eller forsvare andre deler av landet.

— Situasjonen på den andre siden av grensen for Norge nå er helt annerledes enn bare siden høsten 2021. Der de før hadde tre brigader, har de kanskje nå bare en drøy bataljon igjen. Det betyr at det er en betydelig reduksjon i deres styrker, sier Kristoffersen.

Forsvarssjefen la fram sitt fagmilitære råd for 2023 14. juni. Kristoffersen mener det er behov for å øke bevilgningene til forsvarssektoren med om lag 8 milliarder kroner ekstra hvert år fra 2025 til 2031.

Kristoffersen mener Russlands fokus på krigen i Ukraina gir Norge rom til å bygge opp sitt eget forsvar.

— Russland har vist seg å være uforutsigbare, og det er usikkert hvordan Russland vil se ut i fremtiden. Derfor mener jeg det beste vi kan gjøre er å satse på å raskt bygge opp Forsvaret i vinduet vi har nå, for vi vet ikke hvordan Russland vi se ut senere, sier han.

English synopsis: The Norwegian Minister of Defense is urging Norway to build up its defense quickly with Russia’s current occupation of Ukraine.

NYHETER 2 • July 7, 2023
– Bygg opp raskt nå NTB
Earn college credits in courses at all levels. LÆR NORSK PÅ NETT UND.edu/norwegian

Viking’s newest ship named in New York

Ann Ziff of the Metropolitan Opera cuts the ceremonial ribbon

On June 6, Viking® named its newest ocean ship, the Viking Saturn®, with a celebration in New York City. As part of the event, the ship’s ceremonial godmother, Ann Ziff, philanthropist and chair of the Metropolitan Opera, a longtime Viking cultural partner, offered a blessing of good fortune and safe sailing for the ship, a maritime tradition that dates back thousands of years.

The ship will now continue its inaugural season, sailing two new Viking voyages: “Iconic Iceland, Greenland & Canada,” between New York City and Reykjavik, and “Iceland & Norway’s Arctic Explorer,” between Reykjavik and Bergen.

“This is a very proud day for Viking as we name our newest identical ocean ship in New York City, one of the great cultural capitals of the world,” said Torstein Hagen, chair of Viking. “It is especially fitting that Ann Ziff, chair of the Metropolitan Opera— one of the world’s greatest cultural institutions—has honored us by serving as godmother of the Viking Saturn. We thank Ann

for her loyalty as a Viking guest, as well as her many impressive contributions to the arts and other important causes.”

“It is an honor to be godmother of the new Viking Saturn and celebrate this momentous occasion in New York,” said Ziff. “Viking and the Metropolitan Opera share a common goal in creating enriching experiences throughout the world, and there is no doubt the Viking Saturn will do just that for her guests.”

In keeping with the naming tradition, during the ceremony Ziff used the steel sword from the Metropolitan Opera’s production of Verdi’s “Il Trovatore” to cut a ribbon that al-

Norway contributes to Ukraine air defense package

NOK 1.2 billion from a British-led fund is to be used for procurement of air defenses for Ukraine. Norway is one of the contributors.

“The need for military support for Ukraine is extensive and time-critical, especially for air defense,” said Defense Minister Bjørn Arild Gram (Center Party) when the news became known.

The Norwegian government has previously donated NOK 1.5 billion to the British-led fund, the International Fund for Ukraine (IFU). The exact amount of the Norwegian contribution has not yet been decided. (NTB)

New blockbuster planned in Valldal

The planning of a new international film shoot in Valldal in Møre og Romsdal is underway.

lowed a bottle of Norwegian aquavit to break on the ship’s hull. The prop sword was originally used by baritone Dmitri Hvorostovsky in the role of Count di Luna in David McVicar’s production, which premiered in the 2008–2009 season. Before the ribbon cutting, the sword was presented to Ziff by Lady Fiona Carnarvon, the countess of Carnarvon, who is also the godmother of the Viking Mars® and a Viking Longship, the Viking Skadi®

As part of the ceremony, guests also enjoyed performances from Sissel Kyrkjebø,

Report reveals an aftermath of injustice

Norway’s Truth and Reconciliation Commission says that the Norwegianization policy has had very serious consequences for minorities.

“People still experience injustice and negative effects that have their roots in the long history of Norwegianization policies. Now is the time to settle the nation’s injustice towards the Sami, Kven/Norwegian Finns, and Forest Finns,” said Dagfinn Høybråten, who chaired the commission.

On June 1, he handed over the report from the Truth and Reconciliation Commission to Parliament President Masud Gharahkhani. In the report, the commission points to the consequences of the Norwegianization policy for the Sami, Kven and Forest Finns.

The report is comprehensive and should form the basis for settlement of past Norwegianization policies and injustice. The commission proposes measures in key areas.

Must increase knowledge

“Norwegianization policies and injustice have profound negative consequences for the groups’ culture, language, health, and traditional trades. The Truth and Reconciliation Commission’s investigation shows that Norwegianization has had much more widespread and intrusive effects in more areas of society than previously known. Children and young people in particular have been negatively affected by Norwegianization policies throughout the history of Norwegianization,” writes the commission in a press release.

Among other things, they believe that there is a need to increase knowledge about Forest Finns, Sami, and Kven/Norwegian Finns.

“The commission proposes a broad focus on dissemination, as knowledge is a prerequisite for the acknowledgment that Norwegianization policies and injustices have taken place, and that the consequences have significance right up to our own time. Large parts of the Norwegian population have missed out on the richness that the country’s minority cultures bring with them,” said Høybråten.

Asks the Storting to take action

The commission says that it is now up to the Storting to take action.

“The commission hopes that the report itself will increase the knowledge base of the entire population, and that the proposals for

action will be followed up as a contribution to a continued reconciliation process. This will be a challenge for both the Storting and for national, regional and local authorities, and the rest of society,” writes the commission.

Thorough process

Storting President Masud Gharahkhani received the report on behalf of the Storting.

“The commission has done important and thorough work. I would like to thank it for its efforts. A special thank you to the many hundreds who have come to the commission with their personal stories,” Gharahkhani said.

“For Norway, as a modern and open democracy, the protection of human rights is fundamental. How well we protect minorities

See > NORWEGIANIZATION page 4

Truenorth Norway, which facilitates international film productions in Norway, applied for and received permission from Fjord municipality to land by helicopter at Syltefjellet, writes Sunnmørsposten

The permit was valid June 5-30.

Steve Røyset, location manager for the company, does not want to comment to the newspaper on the name of the film.

But in the application for helicopter landings, he writes that it is regarding an international film project.

The helicopter will transport actors, equipment, and film crew in and out of the area.

In recent years, Truenorth Norway has been involved in and added several major productions to Valldal – such as ExMachina, Mission: Impossible and most recently Succession (NTB)

Norway increases capacity to host allied forces

Norway will spend NOK 195 million to strengthen Norway’s capacity for training, practice, and reception of allied forces.

“This will go toward building barracks and tent camps for allies in Indre Troms,” said Defense Minister Bjørn Arild Gram (Center Party) in a press release.

Gram said Norway plays an important role as host nation in a new security policy situation with war in Europe and new members in NATO.

“Finnish and Swedish NATO membership means that Norway also has a role as a transit nation and operational base for forces that will practice, train, and operate in the Nordic region. Therefore, we must make arrangements to be able to receive larger allied reinforcements,” said Gram. (NTB)

Royal love story to become TV series

King Harald and Queen Sonja’s fight for love and marriage will become a TV series. Sindre Strand Offerdal and Gina Bernhoft Gørvell play the young couple.

Filming is underway and the series is expected to premiere in 2025, Viaplay states.

The series depicts how they met and kept alive the impossible relationship –where Crown Prince Harald and Sonja Haraldsen kept the fact that they were lovers a secret for nine years. There was great opposition from the people, the press, the government, and King Olav.

The Norwegian Constitution stipulates that “a hereditary prince or princess must not marry without the king’s permission.”

(NTB)

NEWS July 7 2023 • 3
News in brief
“Norwegianization policies had serious consequences.”
Photo courtesy of Viking During the naming ceremony of the Viking Saturn, the ship’s ceremonial godmother, Ann Ziff, used the steel sword from the Metropolitan Opera’s production of Verdi’s “Il trovatore” to cut a ribbon that allowed a bottle of Norwegian aquavit to break on the ship’s hull. Photo: Peter Mydske / Stortinget Commission Chairman Dagfinn Høybråten presented the Truth and Reconciliation Commission’s report on the consequences of Norwegianization policies to the Storting on June 1. See > VIKING SATURN page 4
NTB
VikiNg Los Angeles

< VIKING SATURN

From page 3

one of the world’s leading crossover sopranos and godmother of the Viking Jupiter® and Norwegian violinist Tor Jaran Apold. Following a celebratory dinner on board the ship, stars of the Metropolitan Opera—soprano Susanna Phillips, tenor Charles Castronovo, and baritone Quinn Kelsey—treated guests to a performance of opera classics, including selections from Giuseppe Verdi’s “La Traviata,” Antonín Dvořák’s “Rusalka,” Giacomo Puccini’s “La Bohème,” as well as a collection of American musical classics from Rodgers and Hammerstein, Jerome Kern, and others.

Ann Ziff, godmother of the Viking Saturn

A dedicated philanthropist focused on the arts, education, culture, and environmental conservation, Ann Ziff is chair of the Metropolitan Opera and serves on several boards, including the Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts, Sing for Hope, the World Science Festival, and the Los Angeles Opera. Passionate about bringing culture and arts into the lives of children in need, she cofounded Smile Train and was a board member at Maloto, an organization that provides education and housing for abused and abandoned girls in Malawi.

Ziff also has an eponymous fine jewelry brand, Tamsen Z, where she designs and creates one-of-a-kind pieces inspired by her love of culture, art, and music, as well as her travels as a Viking guest.

Viking and the Metropolitan Opera

As one of the world’s foremost cultural institutions and the largest classical music organization in North America, the Metropolitan Opera is home to the most creative and talented singers, conductors, composers, musicians, and artists around the world and has been a Viking cultural partner since 2016. On board Viking’s ocean ships, guests are treated to the Metropolitan Opera’s award-winning Live in HD series, including an exclusive viewing of Mozart’s The Magic Flute. As part of Viking’s continued commitment to support enriching, cultural programming, other premier partnerships and sponsorships include Ballet Sun Valley, BBC, Highclere Castle, Los Angeles Philharmonic, PBS’ Masterpiece, RHS Chelsea Flower Show, Oslo’s Munch Museum, TED, and many others.

The Viking Saturn

The Viking Saturn is the newest ship in Viking’s award-winning ocean fleet of identical ships, which also includes the Viking Star® , the Viking Sea®, the Viking Sky®, the Viking Orion®, the Viking Jupiter®, the Viking Venus® , the Viking Mars®, and the Viking Neptune® Classified by Cruise Critic as “small ships,” Viking’s ocean vessels have a gross tonnage of 47,800 tons, with 465 staterooms that can host 930 guests; the ships feature all veranda staterooms, Scandinavian design, light-filled public spaces, and abundant al fresco dining options.

The naming of the Viking Saturn comes as the company continues to celebrate its 25th anniversary and its most successful single month of bookings in January 2023, following recent years of strong growth. Since 2020, Viking has welcomed 17 new ships to its fleet.

< NORWEGIANIZATION

From page 3

is one of the most important signs of whether we live up to our duties and values. The Truth and Reconciliation Commission was appointed because we realized that we as a society have failed in that task. Today we have serious proof of this,” he said.

“Now the report will go through a good and thorough process in the Storting,” said Gharahkhani.

Norwegian national pride

Honoring one’s culture is a positive thing

By now, most of you have certainly noticed that Norwegians have a very strong sense of national pride. This is founded on Norway’s sterling reputation around the world—politically, naturally, and socially. Coming from a country that has this type of global standing, it is common for people of Norwegian heritage to openly express this sense of pride.

Norway’s national pride has been a large piece of their identity ever since they became independent from Sweden in 1905. This nationalism grew even more when they were finally rid of the Nazi occupation in 1945. The popularity of bunader (national costumes) and even sølje jewelry is an expression of this sentiment. And this feeling of pride, in the culture and land itself, spreads far and wide to the deepest corners of the United States where people have been continuing Scandinavian traditions for generations.

Following economic struggles in countries throughout Europe, the United States received a wave of immigrants in the mid–to late 1800s through the early 1900s. People were traveling overseas, seeking out new financial opportunities. Cultural communities stuck together as a source of comfort in a new place, Norwegians included. When talking to fourth-generation Norwegian American Lois Nokleby, she inherited her sense of culture from her community.

“Our community was made up of almost exclusively Norwegians. The township is named after the man who came from Norway first.… I think about all the difficult things that they went through, and they all stayed there because everyone around them was Norwegian. Our neighbors also came over; it was usually a generation earlier. My great-grandfather came in the 1870s, and my grandma’s family came in 1869. They started the bank, and they started the church.”

Lois has found a deep connection to her heritage, especially through food. Food and traditional recipes can be a universal way to learn about culture, and they are typically passed down from generation to generation, either within a family or through a community network. Cooking is also a great way to incorporate foreign language into the learning process. Lois remembers, “That was a big connection, was to have people speaking the language. My grandpa and grandma didn’t like speaking English. They really didn’t speak English until their children had to.”

She feels pride in her heritage, so much so that her happy place is her job, working two days a week at Ingebretsen’s in Minneapolis, one of the most prominent Scandinavian import stores in the United States. Here, Lois engages with customers from all over the world, and many of them are Norwegian.

“Norwegians are easy to be proud of, I look

for things and read the old stories about what happened in the past. Not just World War II, but a lot around that time…They did dangerous things, and nearly died many many times.” The Norwegian Resistance is famous for the daring stunts they pulled, many done to simply keep hope alive during the Nazi occupation. Help from the United States came and planted another seed of connection between the two countries. There’s a lot of history to be proud of in Norway.

The problem is when the line between national pride and xenophobia blurs to think one’s heritage and culture is superior to another. Since I lived in Oslo in 2013, I’ve been examining the question, “What does it mean to be a Norwegian American?” My studies took a deeper look into pride for one’s country and one’s heritage, the good and the bad. At what point does pride become something negative?

In 2013, anti-Islamic sentiments were growing throughout the Western world. Terrorist attacks were frequent and taking over news coverage. The few came to represent the many and fear is one of the quickest feelings to spread and most difficult to snuff out. The critical breaking point in Norway came with the terrible Utøya tragedy in 2011. Over 70 Norwegians, mostly youth, were murdered. The culprit was a middle-aged white man and neo-Nazi. What does this have to do with heritage?

Anders Behring Breivik wrote a manifesto, a long form document that detailed his disdain of Islam and of gender equality. These positions are what inspired his attack

on the Norwegian Labor Party. Breivik believed he was acting in defense of his race. (It is confirmed that he was diagnosed with multiple personality disorders, something to keep in mind when discussing this particular situation.) The steps taken to fulfill his internal mission were many steps too far. I think most people would agree he crossed “the line.”

But he does not have to represent “the many,” and he doesn’t. In today’s world, there is still room for appreciation of where you come from. It is part of what makes the United States a tapestry of unique perspectives and ideas. But mutual respect and openmindedness must come along, too. History of the Norwegian people shows that much of the pride in the country is rooted in great accomplishment.

Honoring one’s own culture is an important part of life and is expressed through food, language, dress, and tradition. There are facets of every culture that we can learn from and emulate. We can all find room to cherish our heritage and to respect the cultures and customs of others.

Laila Simon is a writer in Minneapolis. She is a dual citizen of Norway and the United States and has been writing for The Norwegian American since 2017. When she’s not attempting new recipes, Laila translates Norwegian poetry and adds to her houseplant collection.

DO YOU HAVE SOMETHING TO SAY?

Please send your op-ed or letter to the editor to Editor-in-chief Lori Ann Reinhall at loriann@na-weekly.com and we will consider it for publication.

4 • July 7, 2023 OPINION An opinion column about current issues in Norway and the United States Join the conversation! The opinions expressed by opinion writers featured in “On the Edge” are not necessarily those of The Norwegian American, and our publication of those views is not an endorsement of them. Comments, suggestions, and complaints about the opinions expressed by the paper’s editorials should be directed to the editor.
Photo courtesy of Laila Simon Laila Simon loves to visit Norway in the summers to soak in its amazing natural landscape.

Summer fun and a new fundraiser I love The Norwegian American!

Dear readers and friends,

Summer is here, and there seems to be one thing on everyone’s mind: travel. In the past few months, I think I have heard of more summer vacations plans for Norway than ever before. This, of course, comes as no surprise. After all, Norway is a beautiful country, and I come in contact with so many of you who have strong connections there. There is also a lot of travel going on here on this side of the Atlantic, too, and NorwegianAmerican destinations are also very popular.

All of this “travel fever” has made putting this issue together particularly fun for our team. We have enjoyed hearing about the travel adventures of our freelance writers and sharing some of our own.

But we’ve also come to understand that travel can be confusing with so many options to choose from, we know the importance of getting good advice, and we hope that you have come to count on The Norwegian American as a reliable source of information.

With our cover story, we are pleased to present Up Norway, a new, innovative travel service that allow you to craft a travel itinerary around your own interests. Recently, the founder of Up Norway traveled around the United States to meet with more Americans who want to visit Norway. It was a great way to learn more about the North American market and to present the Norway of today; there are certainly some surprises awaiting. In this issue, you will also learn more about “modern Norway” in a special feature by author Eric Drgeni.

This edition is so full of good content that it’s difficult to pull out the highlights. As editor, I am always amazed with what lands up on my desk each month. Not only do we have an incredibly committed staff, but there is an entire community supporting us. That is why we all love The Norwegian American.

Reaching new heights

In the past few years, we have come far with our newspaper, not only in terms of its content and overall quality, but we have also managed to increase our subscriber base and simultaneously reinforce and streamline the infrastructure behind it all. But we are few

Sometimes Editor-in-chief Lori Ann Reinhall simply likes to sit down to relax and enjoy a good cup of coffee while reading The Norwegian American. This month, she and her team invite you to join the “I Love The Norwegian American” fundraiser, as the newspaper continues to grow.

people doing it, and we still have far to go.

That is why were are now asking for your help with our new fundraiser “I Love The Norwegian American.” This summer, we are hoping to raise a significant amount of capital to help us reach new heights. Many of us working on the paper have already passed retirement age, and it is important that we leave a solid foundation for the next generation to build upon.

We have a number of improvements planned, including an even better digital presence and an expanded marketing apparatus. We need to increase our staff and work with qualified professional freelance resources to achieve all of this. We live in a rapidly changing world, and we know that we must change with it to survive and thrive.

Working together for the future

Perhaps one of the most significant changes we made over the past couple of years was the transfer of ownership of our paper to Norway House in Minneapolis. This dynamic organization stands as the epicenter of activity for connecting the United States and contemporary Norway through arts, business, and culture. This merger has not only strengthened our presence in the heart of the Norwegian-American community in the Midwest, but we also gained non-profit status, which makes giving a donation to The Norwegian American beneficial to you as tax-deductible donation.

As we kick off our fundraiser, we have already received one large donation from our principal benefactor and publisher emeritus of the paper, Ragnar Meyer-Knutsen, but I also want to stress that donations of any amount are very meaningful and will make a difference to us. We hope you will wear that “I Love The Norwegian American” sticker you will be receiving with pride and share your enthusiasm for our newspaper with others. I’ve got my own stickers on my coffee cup and cell phone—a great reminder of how I feel about my job and how fortunate I am able to share this love with others.

At that, I want to wish you many hours of happy reading. In addition to the travel features this issue offers, there are delicious recipes, an exclusive interview with crosscountry skiing champion Jessie Diggins, film and book reviews, and a Barneblad presenting Wendy Jensen’s new book about woven Scandinavian hearts (Wendy, by the way, was the designer of our campaign sticker)— and so much more. I know I have said it so many times, but I am especially proud of this issue. Yes, I do mean it from the bottom of my heart: I love The Norwegian American! Wishing you many hours of happy reading,

Lori Ann

Editor-in-chief

The Norwegian American

Published since May 17, 1889

913 East Franklin Avenue, Minneapolis, MN 55404 Tel: (206) 784-4617 • Email: naw@na-weekly.com

Publisher

Norway House

Publisher Emeritus

Ragnar Meyer-Knutsen

Editor-in-chief

Lori Ann Reinhall loriann@na-weekly.com

Assistant Editor Ragnhild Hjeltnes ragnhild@na-weekly.com

Business & Sports Editor Michael Kleiner michael@na-weekly.com

Taste of Norway Editor

Kristi Bissell food@na-weekly.com

Travel Editor Cynthia Elyce Rubin travel@na-weekly.com

Design Editor Beth Holmes naw@na-weekly.com

Copy Editor Becky Kruse Gjendem naw@na-weekly.com

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Sports Notes

Viktor Hovland wins first major US tournament

Norway’s Viktor Hovland won a playoff at the Memorial in Dublin, Ohio, June 4, to win his first PGA tournament on U.S. soil. Hovland finished with a 7-under score of 281, moving up to fifth in the world rankings.

(The Associated Press)

Casper Ruud falls in French Open final

Third-seed Novak Djokovic bested

fourth-seed Casper Ruud in the French Open final, June 11, 7-6 (7-1), 6-3, 7-5, to set a record with his 23rd career Grand Slam victory. Ruud won the first three games in the first set only to have Djokovic even the set 6-6 and quickly win the tiebreaker. Ruud lost in last year’s French Open final to Rafael Nadal.

Vipers Kristiansand hunger satisfied in Hungary

Vipers Kristiansand downed Hungarian power Györ 37-35 in a semifinal June 3, and then, FTC-Rail Cargo Hungaria, 28-24, in the final June 4 in Budapest for its third straight European Champions League title before world-record crowds of 20,022 fans to watch woman’s handball at MVM Dome. Vipers goalie, 43-year old Katrine Lunde won her seventh championship.

In the championship game, Vipers were led by Anna Vyakhireva and Sunniva Amalie Næs Andersen (6 goals each). In the semifinal, Györ (Norwegian Stine Bredal Oftedal 11G, Ana Gros 9G) drew within 36-35 with 48 seconds left. Vyakhireva (5G) iced the game for Vipers (Jamina Roberts 8G, Marketa Jerábková 7G) with eight seconds remaining. (eurohandball.com)

Kolstad dethrones Elverum

Kolstad’s road to the championship trophy was blocked by Elverum, 10 straight trips to the finals, all wins.

It took Sigvaldi Bjørn Gudjonsson’s goal with 22 seconds left to clinch a 2927 victory in Game 4, June 7, for Kolstad (Gabriel Ostad Setterblom 10-1), which won the best-of-five series 3-1. Kolstad (Gudjonsson 8-0) took the series lead when Simen Ulstad Lyse (6-6) scored with four seconds left in a 30-29 Game 3 win, May 31. Kolstad also won the regular season title and Norwegian Championship. (handball.no)

Nærbø fails to defend European Cup

Vojvodina (Serbia) won the European Cup opener May 28 over defending champion Nærbø 30-23, then won at Nærbø, June 3, 25-23, winning the aggregate 55-46. (eurohandball.com)

Three’s the charm

Erling Braut Haaland and Manchester City won the “treble,”: Premier League, FA Cup, and Champions League titles. (ESPN.com)

Eliteserien, Toppserien update

As of June 18, Bodø/Glimt (10 wins-1 tie-0 losses-31 pts) leads Eliteserien by 10 pts and Vålerenga (12 wins-4 ties-0 losses-40 pts) has a nine-point lead in Toppserien. (Flashscore.com)

Jakob Ingebrigtsen leads record night The “best Bislett Games” thrill Oslo

“What is the past is prologue.”

William Shakespeare in The Tempest

Jakob Ingebrigtsen prepped for the Bislett Games on home grounds by setting the European record in the British 2-mile of 7:54.10 in Paris on June 9. At Rabat, Morocco, May 28, Ingebrigtsen won the 1,500m in 3:32.59; followed by Yared Nuguse (USA) 3:33.02 and Oliver Hoare (Australia) 3:33.39.

Records fell at a near capacity Bislett Stadium in Oslo, June 15, leaving Bislett Director Steinar Hoen beaming. Among the new records was Ingebrigtsen setting the European record in the 1,500m of 3:27.95, which bettered his previous personal best by 0.37. At an international press conference and strawberry festival the day before the games, athletes were given miniature statues of themselves. Apparently, this wasn’t good enough for Ingebrigtsen.

The 22-year-old, who has been winning races since he was 17, joked, “If I beat the world record in the 1,500 meters tomorrow, then I deserve a statue outside Bislett.”

To which Hoen replied, “If you break the record tomorrow, I will personally erect a statue of you.”

Ingebrigtsen should have said, “European,” but Hoen might want to start chiseling anyway. Who knows what records Ingebrigtsen will set before his career is over?

Some are touting the race as “one for the ages.” Though some of the fastest runners didn’t participate, it was still a strong field. Ingebrigtsen took the lead early with Spain’s Mohamed Satir tailing and pulled away in the last 150m. At the press conference, Ingebrigtsen said he didn’t concern himself with records, only winning. After crossing the finish line, he punched his fist in the air and roared in a celebration rarely seen from him. In another first, the top eight runners all clocked under 3:30. Satir was second (3:28.89), followed by Nuguse (3:29.02), Kenyan legend Timothy Cheruiyot (3:29.08), Spain’s Mario García (3:29.18), France’s Azeddine Habz (3:29.26), Hoare (3:29.41) and Norway’s Narve Gilje Nordås (3:29.47), who is coached by Ingebrigtsen’s father, Gjert. While Gjert is not coaching Jakob this season, he coached another Sandes boy to run below 3:30, two runners from the same town.

“I get a little shaky talking about it (the record), actually,” said Ingebrigtsen to NRK. “It is not a given that one will be able to improve upon it. Running is incredibly fun, and doing it in the capital in front of the Norwegian people is the most fun you can do. It is incredible to do this at Bislett. The conditions were right and the atmosphere here hits the heartstrings. Then, it’s cool to deliver the race for the ages. I will remember this forever.”

Nordås’ performance shocked him and he couldn’t grasp he’s the second fastest Norwegian in history in the distance. “It’s unreal, a dream,” Nordås told NRK. “I don’t understand what that clock shows. It shouldn’t work. I don’t understand it myself.”

Interest in the race was evident from the TV viewership. NRK said the audience jumped up to 540,000 Norwegian viewers for the 1,500m, while it averaged 395,000 for the rest of the meet.

Norwegian Karsten Warholm was also a draw that didn’t disappoint, capturing the 400mH in 46.52, almost a second better than the United States’ CJ Allen (47.58) and 1.61 ahead of France’s Wilfried Happio (48.13). For Warholm, though the time was 0.58 slower than his world record time at the 2021 Summer Olympics, it was the world’s fastest time this year, overcoming Rai Benjamin (47.74), and it came in his season debut returning from an injury. The time still bested

his Bislett and Diamond League records.

“When you’re on the track, you’re in the bubble, but I really felt the crowd lift me in the home straight—the adrenaline was really pumping in the last 100 meters,” Warholm said on world-track.org. “It really sucked to be out injured last year and I wanted to make sure I came back with a big boom. I’ve worked really hard to get back to this level.”

Salum Ageze Kashafali set the world record in the 100m in his para visually impaired class. Håvard Brentdal Ingvaldsen finished fourth (44.86) in the men’s 400m, 0.48 behind first place Wayde Van Niekerk (Republic of South Africa) but it was a Norwegian record.

In the women’s 400mH, Femke Bol of the Netherlands broke her own world record with a time of 52.30–showing the Dutch are not just speed skaters. She pulled away in the last 100m and eclipsed her Bislett record time last year (52.61) and her previous world record set earlier this year (52.43).

Bislett records were set by Yomif Kejelcha (Ethiopia), 12:41.73 in the men’s 5,000m; Marie-Joseé Ta Lou (Ivory Coast) 10.75 in women’s 100m, and Erriyon Knighton (United States) 19.77 in the men’s 200m. Kejelcha won a photo finish with Uganda’s Jacob Kiplimo. In the women’s 100m, 0.23 separated Lou and fifth place.

Bislett Games outpointed the Paris meet the weekend before for the best Diamond League meet of the season thus far.

In other Norwegian results: Magnus Tuv Myre was 10th (13:09.44) and Henrik Ingebrigtsen 11th in the men’s 5,000m (13:18.04); Sondre Guttormsen (5.71m) and

Pål Haugen Lillefosse (5.61m) were sixth and seventh in the men’s pole vault; Ingar Bratseth-Kiplesund was seventh in the men’s long jump (7.75m).

“The whole of Oslo suddenly found out that they were going to Bislett,” exuded Hoen to NTB. “Then we get that (beautiful) weather, and the best athletics meet in the world. It was completely crazy. The evening was crowned with Karsten Warholm’s second fastest career time in the 400-meter hurdles, before Jakob Ingebrigtsen ended it all with a European record in the 1,500 meters. That ending with Karsten and Jakob is completely insane. When I sat and watched Paris, I just thought ‘yes, they won.’ But then little Bislett comes and just crushes them. At least in my era as convention director and assistant, since 2006, this is the best Bislett Games.”

Michael Kleiner has more than three decades of experience as an award-winning journalist and public relations professional. He has operated his own PR and web design business for small businesses, authors and community organizations in Philadelphia since 1999. Not of Norwegian descent, he lived in Norway for a year with his family at age 11 and has returned as an adult. He is the author of a memoir, Beyond the Cold: An American’s Warm Portrait of Norway, and a member of the Norwegian American Chamber of Commerce Philadelphia. Find him at kleinerprweb.com and beyondthecold.com

6 • July 7, 2023 SPORTS
Photo: Fredrik Varfjell / NTB Jakob Ingebrigtsen celebrates as he crosses the finish line of the 1,500m during the Diamond League Bislett Games 2023 at Bislett Stadium in Oslo. Photo: Fredrik Varfjell The crowds were out in full force to cheer the athletes on at the 2023 Bislett Games in Oslo.

Interview with a champion Jessie Diggins perseveres on skis and in life

Jessie Diggins smiled, laughed, and was exuberant throughout the entire interview; she seemed happy to answer questions. America’s best women’s cross-country skier ever is leading an evolution in the sport in the United States. She may be stubborn and gritty in training and competition, and there may be two e’s and an i in Jessie, and two i’s in Diggins, but there is no ‘I’ or “ego” in Jessie Diggins. The Afton, Minn., native is unabashedly unselfish despite being the first American—female or male—to win an Olympic gold medal in cross-country skiing in 2018, and the first American to win a season World Cup in 2021.

Her impact reaches to stars in other sports. American Alpine skier and world champion Mikaela Shiffrin says, “Jessie has one of the most infectiously positive and bubbly personalities of anyone I have ever met. That, combined with her fierce drive and unwavering grit, is what makes her an inspiration to so many people, including myself.”

Times are good for the 31-year-old Diggins. She’s among the elite in her sport. She was talking via Zoom, June 13, during a break from training with her club team, SMS T2, in Stratton, Vt. Diggins loves the camaraderie among team members—club and national—and how they push each other. Diggins recently celebrated her first wedding anniversary. Her husband, Wade Poplawski, is from Winnipeg, Manitoba, played ice hockey at Colgate University in Hamilton, N.Y., and now lives and works in Boston.

“My husband is so loving, caring, and understands me, my sport, and what it takes,” said Diggins. “I’m just really lucky to have him. We’re commuting a lot.”

Norway House in Minneapolis awarded her with its Going Viking award, which embodies traits such as endeavor, culture, knowledge, purpose, self-governance, and modesty—even though she’s not of Norwegian descent.

“I need to disclose that I’m not actually Norwegian,” she said, laughing. “Both my parents are from Canada. I want to make sure I’m straight up about that. I feel very honored to be recognized by the Norway House. I’ve spent a lot of my life over in Norway, just because of the nature of our job, being on the road, training, and racing. I’ve had the great fortune to experience skiing in a lot of different parts of Norway and getting the chance to race in a lot of different areas around the world. It has a special place in my heart so I feel really honored to receive this award.”

There’s the brown cheese. “I love brown cheese,” she said. “I like the blue packaging. I really like the Christmas edition that has nutmeg and cardamon.”

Behind the smiles and exuberance is a Jessie Diggins story, not all of it pretty. She gushes about growing up in Minnesota, and uses words “lucky” and “cool” a lot. Her father learned about cross-country skiing while playing hockey with Finns in Thunder Bay, Ontario. He fell in love with it and got his wife to fall in love with it.

“When I was born, they kept going out on the trails every weekend, and they’d bring me in their backpack,” she said. “I thought it was so cool to grow up being out on the trails. Every weekend, we would go and explore a different trail system. This is another wonderful thing about where I grew up. There’s so many different places to ski. They’re very accessible, very affordable. I grew up with the Minnesota Youth Ski League. When I was 3 or 4, I got my own little pair of three pin binding skis and my own little pair of poles. I thought that was really cool.”

While in the backpack, she would tug at her father’s hair to get him to go faster. “I learned that you tell sled dogs to ‘mush.’ I

would say ‘mush,’ like he was my own personal sled dog, so that was pretty funny.”

Diggins attended Stillwater High School, from the seventh to 12th grade. There were 120 members of the cross-country skiing team. It was in that setting she learned one of the things she likes best about cross-country skiing: inclusivity.

“We had so many wonderful volunteer coaches, because cross-country skiing is part of the Nordic culture and Nordic culture is very much part of where I grew up,” she said. “We really thrived in that environment and a really awesome team culture. All the parents help. Everyone’s welcome. Unlike sports where you’re competing for playing time and might have to spend time sitting on a bench, in cross-country skiing, every kid gets to start every race. Every kid has an equal opportunity to get out there and race around that 5K loop as fast as they can. There’s something really empowering about that and it really builds a cool culture of working hard and supporting each other.”

As a high school senior, juggling schoolwork and competitions (she missed 60 school days, but received great support from teachers), and her perfectionism, Diggins developed an eating disorder, bulimia, and mental health issues. She revealed her trials and tribulations in her 2020 book, Brave Enough, as well as the fun times she’s had as an international competitor.

“The analogy that I learned at the Emily Program [in Spokane, Wash.], where I received care for my eating disorder, was that genetics loads the gun and environment pulls the trigger,” she said. “That really made sense to me because an eating disorder is a mental health issue. It’s something where you might be primed to have one. It’s not your fault. It’s not something you did, but certain factors in your life might make it more likely to surface at some point. One may never end up having one. For someone else, it surfaces when they’re 10 years old, which is really tough. For me, it was the combination of being a super Type-A personality, very perfectionistic. If you said do up to eight intervals, I’m definitely doing eight, maybe nine. That’s how I’m wired.

“Combine that with being an elite athlete in an endurance sport and you have a perfect cocktail to bring forth this eating disorder. That experience and learning how to get help for it from the Emily Program, and learning all these tools to put in my toolbox to deal with stress and anxiety, and all the other emotions that the eating disorder

was a coping tool for, was huge for me. It changed my life and now I’m a way better person. Having come through the other side of that was the motivation for writing the book. There’s some really fun race stories in there, but the real motivation was creating an opportunity for people to get inside the head of someone with an eating disorder so that they can find compassion, empathy and understanding. Maybe parents of a child who’s suffering from an eating disorder reads the book. It might help them find a way to connect to their child and ideas for different ways we can reach out and help them get help from professionals.”

More athletes in various sports are stepping up saying they have anxiety or other mental health problems.

“There are many myths around eating disorders that create this web of stigma, shame and secrecy, which is the environment in which eating disorders thrive,” said Diggins. “Unfortunately, when you feel like you can’t talk about something, it’s really hard to get help for something if you feel like no one’s talking about it. Then, you start to think it’s just me. Unfortunately, our reality is that statistically everyone is either going to know someone who’s had an eating disorder or have one themselves. They also don’t discriminate. There’s this myth that it affects skinny, white, wealthy teenage girls. That’s the picture on the brochure for eating disorders. In reality they affect everyone, different ages, 8 to 88, any race, gender expression. It doesn’t matter where you’re from or who you are. Talking about it and removing some of those stigmas around eating disorders, we hope to make it easier for people to reach out. They are common in endurance sports, where there might be a lot of added external pressure, to look a certain way, to be a certain body composition. Those things are not helpful in terms of healing from an eating disorder.”

At the beginning of Brave Enough, Diggins recalls a family camping trip at 12 years old, when she insisted on carrying her canoe herself, portaging (“carrying between two navigable waters”). Her father said she could if he first showed her how to do it. As a toddler, she would say, “I do it mineself.” She realizes that this independence and confidence is a two-edged sword. It can help with competition. All that confidence disappeared when she became bulimic, “..and it would take a lot of digging to bring that brave little girl back to the surface.” She had to ask for help and realized she didn’t have to do things

herself and wasn’t alone when she had teammates, family, and now Wade.

Shiffrin added to her review of the book on Amazon: “I never realized just how inspiring she truly is until I read this book.” Former teammate Kikkan Randall, with whom she won the Olympic gold medal: “... I have never been more proud of my teammate and friend…” and former Olympic track star Jackie Joyner-Kersee: “...she shares a raw, heart-wrenching, nothing-held-back look at the struggles she went through to succeed. It’s an inspiring story, worthy of gold.”

Diggins has a large support network that includes her national team (women and men) and club teammates, as well as her international competitors, especially the Norwegians.

Diggins has an interesting perspective on racing and appreciates what her career has given her off the track that is more important.

“I’ve formed many very meaningful friendships with the Norwegian girls because we all have similar hopes, dreams, work ethic and life experiences,” said Diggins. “Heidi Weng and I go back to World Juniors, 2008 or 2009. When I trained with them, we formed Team 91, all the girls born in 1991. It’s fun because we’ve all had this experience being the baby of the team, just trying to break in, and then having breakout years.

“Now, we’re the older ones on the team. We’ve had this awesome opportunity to get to know each other. We can relate because we’re going through similar phases and struggles of life at the same time. I see them as friends, inspiration, incredible competitors. You always try to win the race, but when someone else wins it, I’m genuinely happy for them because I know them, like them, and think they’re honest, hardworking competitors. They’ve earned it. When I win, I feel that they are genuinely happy for me.

“There are so many variables that you can’t control in ski racing. The snow, the course, your skis, the wax is different. I think more, ‘I’m gonna try to beat the course.’ All you can control is skiing a good hard race the best that you can, learn the lessons from the race and then take that forward into the next race. It’s a very humbling sport. That’s one of the things I really like about it. Nobody’s too cool in cross-country skiing because everyone collapses in the snow at the finish line and has drool over their face. It really brings you back down to earth, just reminds you that everyone’s working hard. When we cheer for each other, it’s about, they tackled a really tough course, and isn’t that awesome?”

So has been the rise of American women’s cross-country skiing. In addition to Diggins, Rosie Brennan was fourth in the World Cup standings in 2021 and in the top 10 in 2023.

“We’re putting in the work and finally getting more resources to help with it,” explained Diggins. “When I first came onto the World Cup circuit, our entire operational budget for the entire year was less than the wax budget for the Norwegian team. We’re the only country in cross-country skiing that does not provide government funding. There are definite differences in the ability of teams to have all the resources that they need in order to compete on that really large scale. Thanks to the support of really passionate fans and awesome sponsors, we’re able to have more resources in order to compete on a more even footing.

“It’s an unfortunate reality of the sport that it’s not just your athletic ability. There are different variables, but that’s also what makes it very cool because you do it as a team. When I won the world championships this year, that was just as much of a victory for all the coaches, all the wax techs, all the people who donated to get us that wax truck. That was their medal too. I think it’s really cool that when Americans succeed that way, it’s because of other Americans being willing to invest in their success and support them.”

July 7, 2023 • 7 SPORTS
Photo: Daniel Karmann / dpa / Alamy Live News Jessie Diggins cheers at the finish in Planica, Slovenia, Feb. 18, 2023, at the Nordic skiing World Championships, cross-country – 10 km freestyle, women.

Business briefs

Teekay Tankers to implement Yara Marine’s FuelOpt technology

The tanker operator has confirmed a repeat order for Norwegian company Yara Marine Technologies’ propulsion optimization technology FuelOpt, taking its installed fleet to 29 vessels.

The use of FuelOpt on board four of their vessels in 2022 resulted in fuel savings and emissions reductions of 3% to 5% through the year. The additional investment is a key component in Teekay’s planned strategy for greater sustainability.

Mikael Laurin, head of Vessel Optimization at Yara Marine Technologies, commented: “We are extremely proud to work closely with clients like Teekay Tankers to ensure that they have futureproof and cost-effective solutions for decarbonization.

(Teekay Tanker)

Deep-sea mining may soon be reality

The government is in favor of opening an area on the Norwegian continental shelf for mineral activities, confirms Oil and Energy Minister Terje Aasland to Dagens Næringsliv

“When we submit a proposal to the Storting on the opening of the extraction of seabed minerals, it is to explore whether extraction can take place profitably, sustainably and responsibly,” said Aasland.

The 108,600 square mile area is in the Greenland Sea and the Barents Sea.

A number of expert circles on climate are very critical, and a united environmental movement has asked the government to turn around. The government’s budget partner Socialist Left Party also wants to protect the sea from mining.

Aasland defends the government.

“The green shift needs minerals. Everyone who owns minerals has a responsibility to see if we can manage to extract them based on knowledge, consideration for the environment, and sustainability,” he said.

(NTB)

Upturn for Norse Atlantic

Norse Atlantic had an increase in the number of passengers in May.

In total, 58,000 passengers flew that month. This was up from 48,847 passengers in April. It is the third month in a row that Norse has seen growth in passenger numbers.

The occupancy rate on the flights was 73%. This is also an increase from April, when this figure was 67%, writes Finansavisen (NTB)

Norway enters the cocoa industry

Norfund invests $12 million in cocoa processing in Nigeria. The government fund will create jobs and address challenges related to working conditions. The investment is the first Norfund has made in cocoa processing.

“Norfund enters cocoa knowing the challenges of this industry linked to working conditions, especially in the form of child labor at subcontractors. We have ambitions to contribute to an operation in line with high standards in environmental and social conditions,” said Obafemi Awobokun, responsible for the investment in Norfund.

The investment is in the company OH Ecosystems, which specializes in cocoa processing and the production of chocolate on the African continent.

(NTB)

Hurtigruten Norway unveils an energy-efficient cruise ship

Zero-emission cruise vessel to set sail

hurTigruTeN Norway Tromsø, Norway

Weeks before its 130th anniversary, Hurtigruten Norway unveiled plans for its first zero-emission ship. Initially announced in March 2022 under the project name “Sea Zero,” the first-of-its-kind initiative has revealed early concept plans for the world’s most energy-efficient cruise ship. Hurtigruten Norway presented the findings alongside its consortium of 12 maritime partners and research institute SINTEF, all joined in the pursuit of achieving emission-free marine travel. Tasked with developing energy-efficient and carbon-neutral technology solutions, the consortium shared key findings following its first year of research.

“When we initially announced the ‘Sea Zero’ project over a year ago, we were faced with the challenge of not knowing which technologies would be available to us in 2030. Our task was to pave the way for new innovations and enhance existing ones to align with our sustainability objectives. While some of these technologies have reached a relatively advanced stage, they still necessitate dedicated research and development to ensure successful implementation within the maritime context.

“On the other hand, certain technologies are still in early development and require fundamental research and thorough testing. Following a rigorous feasibility study, we have pinpointed the most promising technologies for our groundbreaking future cruise ships. We are committed to delivering a ship that surpasses all others in terms of energy efficiency and sustainability within just a few years,” said Hedda Felin, CEO of Hurtigruten Norway.

In line with their focus on sustainable operations tailored to the Norwegian coast, Hurtigruten Norway plans for smaller, custombuilt ships that leave a positive footprint with zero emissions to both sea and land. With the first ship ready in 2030, the company plans to transform its entire fleet into zero-emission vessels. Since only 0.1% of ships worldwide currently use zero-emission technology, Hurtigruten Norway’s project aims to drastically improve the greater cruise industry’s sustainability record and future of travel.

Hurtigruten Norway’s future ships will be electric and equipped with batteries that charge in port. Combining 60-megawatt battery solutions with wind technology, the vessel is expected to feature numerous firsts and improved solutions that do not exist on cruise ships today, including retractable sails with solar panels, artificial intelligence maneuvering, contra-rotating propellers, and multiple retractable thrusters. Additional technologies include air lubrication, advanced hull coating, and proactive hull cleaning.

Battery levels will be displayed on the ship’s external sides, while the bridge, where the captain and crew steer the ship, is expected to reduce significantly in size following enhanced artificial intelligence (AI) maneuvering, mimicking that of an airplane cockpit. Hurtigruten Norway has operated along the Norwegian coast for 130 years and has superior knowledge of the 34 ports it stops at daily. The cruise line will thus use AI to collect data that learns the most efficient docking and undocking methods for each port, improving inport operations in bad or challenging weather.

The three retractable, autonomous wing rigs will comprise 16,146 square feet of solar panels and a total wind surface of 8,073 square feet, reaching a maximum height of 164 square feet when fully extended.

Hurtigruten Norway strives for superior guest comfort and spectacular views on board its first zero-emission ship. A streamlined shape will result in less air resistance, reduce

energy use, and increase passenger comfort. In addition to ample outdoor space, enlarged surface areas with dedicated windows will allow for unparalleled views of what is often described as “the world’s most beautiful coastline.”

“We are developing the concept for a very innovative cruise design and researching to find the optimal design methods suitable for zero-emission ships. The streamlined shape, with its innovative hull and propulsion solutions, not only reduces energy demand but also increases passenger comfort. In the process, we are developing new design tools and exploring new technologies for energy efficiency,” said Henrik Burvang, research and innovation manager at VARD, the design and shipbuilding company behind the concept visuals.

Guests will play a key role in minimizing energy consumption through an interactive mobile app, where they can operate ultramodern cabin ventilation and measure their own water and energy consumption.

Sea Zero has now entered a two-year phase in which the proposed technologies will be tried, tested, and developed further in pursuit of the final zero-emission ship. The current research and development phase focuses on battery production, propulsion technology, hull design, and sustainable practices that reduce energy use to an absolute minimum. Developing new technologies for on-board hotel operations, which can consume up to 50% of the ship’s total energy use, will be crucial to the project’s success. The goal is a 50% en-

ergy reduction compared with Hurtigruten Norway’s current ships.

While Hurtigruten Norway is working toward its first zero-emission ship, the company is currently undertaking one of the most extensive environmental upgrades in European maritime history with its existing fleet. Two of the seven ships have been upgraded to battery-hybrid-powered ships, with a third to be upgraded this fall. The five other vessels are being outfitted with various technologies that will cut CO² emissions by 25% and NOx (nitrogen oxides) by 80%. In 2019, affiliated company Hurtigruten Expeditions introduced the world’s first battery-hybrid-powered ship, MS Roald Amundsen; the expeditions arm now has three battery-hybrid ships out of its seven-ship fleet.

The new zero-emission ship is modeled at 135 meters (443 feet) long, with 270 cabins that hold 500 guests and 99 crew. Just as Hurtigruten Norway has been transporting cargo along the Norwegian coast for 130 years, the new ship will also have a significant cargo hold and transport cars.

To learn more about Sea Zero, visit Hurtigruten.com/Sea-Zero. Visit Hurtigruten.com for information about the Hurtigruten group.

Images courtesy of VARD Design

8 • July 7, 2023
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Visual concept rendering of Hurtigruten Norway’s zero-emission Sea Zero ship in Hjørundfjord, Norway. Side view visual concept rendering of Hurtigruten Norway’s zero-emission Sea Zero ship.

This year’s Around the World Embassy Tour a great success

The Royal Norwegian Embassy opens up its doors

chriSTiNe FoSTer meLoNi Washington, D.C.

One of the most popular events in our nation’s capital is the day many embassies open their doors to the general public and showcase their buildings and their country’s cultures.

The Royal Norwegian Embassy was unable to participate in this eagerly anticipated yearly event in the past because it could not accommodate large crowds. This year, however, the situation was different. The newly renovated embassy complex building opened its doors on May 6 to welcome very enthusiastic guests.

The embassy had closed its doors in 2020, and the renovation began. Three years later, the work was finally completed and planning for the Around the World Embassy Tour began.

Valeska Rulken, the embassy’s social secretary, was the person primarily responsible for the planning. She said that, since it was the first year that the embassy had participated in this event, they did not quite know what to expect. She explained their plan:

“We decided to cast a broad net and reach out to organizations that we thought could be interested in participating. This included the Norwegian-American Chamber of Commerce, Vesterheim museum, Norway House, and Norwegian-American organizations in the area, such as the Sons of Norway Washington, D.C., Lodge.

“We were thrilled that our outreach was met with a lot of enthusiasm, which allowed us to put together a great program. Our primary objective when agreeing to this event was to give guests a chance to see our new space, but with the participation of these great organizations, we were also able to show off Norwegian folk art, food culture, and language.”

Washington Sons of Norway Lodge

The local Sons of Norway Washington, D.C., lodge played a key role in creating a welcoming atmosphere for the almost 5,000 eager visitors.

Shelley Mitchell and Rhonda FergusonAugustus stood at the entrance to the building and warmly welcomed the visitors and sent them up the stairs where they were greeted by Marie Hansen and Linda Hestvik, who gave them instructions on how to proceed and answered any of their questions.

Christine Knight and her daughter, Katarina, were very excited about their involvement.

Christine said, “It was a great experience helping the Royal Norwegian Embassy share our culture and traditions through food! I really enjoyed answering questions about what made the waffles we were serving Norwegian waffles and when and how Norwegians and Norwegian Americans eat them. We did not offer any toppings for our waffles. Chef Chris knew that toppings would slow the long line of eager visitors down to a crawl.

“The most common observation was how the heart shape made the waffles so cute! At our lodge’s annual Christmas festival, taste is what it’s all about, with questions on cardamom and vanilla being the primary concerns. No one comments on the heart shape!

“I was amazed at the ubiquitous photos and filming of the waffles we were serving, taken by the recipients themselves. I wonder how many TikTok, Instagram, and Facebook posts these waffles were stars in!”

Katarina said, “It was very gratifying to be able to share my culture with such a diverse group of people who had never tried Norwegian waffles. Seeing their smiles and receiving their compliments was amazing, as I knew they were just as excited about Norwegian food and culture as I am.”

Why come to the Norwegian embassy?

Two students from D.C.’s Georgetown University, William and Zara, shared why

they were interested in visiting the Royal Norwegian Embassy.

“I’m very interested in the country, culture, and customs—and where better to go to learn about all these things than the embassy? Not to mention that I’ll be going to Norway in the summer and was hoping to meet some Norwegian nationals,” said William.

Zara said, “Because I think the embassy tour is really cool. As a Georgetown student enrolled in the School of Foreign Service, I’m always game to learn about new cultures!”

The two enthusiastic students also shared what they enjoyed most about their visit.

For William, “it was getting to speak with some of the embassy’s staff and many of the fantastic members of the local Sons of Norway lodge!”

Zara’s reply was very enthusiastic: “The waffles!”

A young woman was seen admiring the two fascinating works in the Art Room, “Rocks in Tidal Water” by Eline Mugaas and “Færdaminner” by Elisabeth Haarr. We struck up a conversation, and I learned that her name was Ching Chen Kuo and that she was a local high school teacher.

“When I noticed that the Royal Norwegian Embassy was participating in this year’s Around the World Embassy tour, I was determined to visit the embassy,” she said. “I am very glad I did. I wanted to learn more about the place my handsome husband’s relatives were from.

“I was born and grew up in the small city of Hsing-Chu, Taiwan. I came to the United States for graduate school in the early 2000s and ended up as a public-school teacher here in the D.C. metro area. And I married an American with Norwegian roots. Our dream is to visit Norway one day. We have talked about it many times.

“It felt very special when I stepped into the embassy today, because I felt somehow connected. What has most caught my attention is the architecture, its simple design with

natural wood and lots of glass to welcome the natural light. This gives people a fresh, clean, and healthy feeling. And the paintings in this Art Room! I love their vivid colors and their boldness. After this embassy visit, going to Norway will definitely be a high priority on our bucket list.”

To learn more about the embassy renovation by Fentress Architects, visit their website at dezeen.com/2022/05/24/fentressarchitects-norwegian-embassy-washington.

Who was invited to participate?

Several organizations were represented, including Luther College and Vesterheim, the National Norwegian Museum, both located in Decorah, Iowa.

The focus of the popular Luther College table was its Nordic Studies program. Maren Johnson, associate professor of Nordic Studies and program director of the Torgerson Center for Nordic Studies, was very busy answering questions, many regarding the college’s Norwegian language classes.

Two other Norwegian instructors, Evelyn “Eddy” Galstad and Nick Rayness, were in another location of the embassy presenting a sample Norwegian class with great enthusiasm, much to the delight of those in attendance. As their “students” left, they were given a card with all of the words and phrases they had learned in the mini-lesson.

Diane Wagner, director of development, and her daughter were responsible for Vesterheim’s table. Diane said that they were thrilled that the embassy had given them this great opportunity to showcase Vesterheim’s many offerings. They distributed brochures with information about folk art courses that were both online and in person, such as rosemaling, woodcarving, weaving, fiber arts, Nordic cooking, and metalworking. They also handed out a catalog with the items available for purchase in the Vesterheim Museum Store including Dale of Norway sweaters, Sylvsmidja silver jewelry, gnomes, Scandinavian

treats, cooking utensils, books, and notecards.

The Norwegian American was, of course, represented. Ethan Bjelland-Hagberg, communications director at Norway House in Minneapolis, was busy giving out copies of our newspaper and selling subscriptions.

Was the open house a success?

“Yes!” said Urd Berge Milbury, the embassy’s culture and education adviser. “It really was such a fantastic event. This was the first year we participated in Passport DC. We could not participate before, as our embassy was not suited for receiving crowds of visitors. Now, with our renovated state-of-the-art embassy, we can finally take part in this fun public diplomacy event.

“It was wonderful to be able to open our doors to the general public, as most people in D.C. never get to visit an embassy so they are very curious about this hidden world. We wanted to showcase our new building and artwork, as well as Norwegian culture and business. We were lucky to have so many organizations help us create interesting content, from Luther College to Vesterheim to the Norwegian Refugee Council and Norse Atlantic airlines. And even better is that every organization left so happy with the level of exposure they got and with the public participation and enthusiasm.”

The Royal Norwegian Embassy’s open house promises to be a hot destination on the Around the World Embassy Tour again next year! Vi ses!

July 7, 2023 • 9 DIPLOMACY
Evelyn “Eddy” Galstad and Nick Rayness from Luther College were the spunky instructors for the free “mini” Norwegian language classes offered. All photos by John Olsen Maren Johnson of Luther College talked about Nordic studies there. Shelly Mitchell warmly welcomed the public at the embassy entrance. Vesterheim’s Diane Wagner and daughter showed off their new plans. William and Zara from Georgetown University pose for a photo. Urd Berge Milbury (left) welcomes Christine Foster Meloni (right). Visitors were happy to receive copies of The Norwegian American. Ethan Bjelland-Hagberg was there to represent Norway House. The lawn of the Royal Norwegian Embassy was filled with enthusiastic visitors as part of this year’s Around the World Embassy Tour in the nation’s capital. Sons of Norway greeters Linda Hestvik and Marie Hansen were all smiles. Christine Foster Meloni is professor emerita at The George Washington University. She has degrees in Italian literature, linguistics, and international education. She was born in Minneapolis and currently lives in Washington, D.C.

Profiles in Norwegian science

Cell phones and children’s health

“Call me anytime”—an easy mantra to repeat unthinkingly, given the powerful computers we hold in our hands. We name them “phones” and they provide a huge array of functions, most prominently many modes of unceasing connection to the world and to each other. Is this good for children? Norwegian science offers some answers.

A field called “Digital Childhoods”— including researchers at the Norwegian University of Science and Technology, Oslo Metropolitan University, University of Oslo, and University of Stavanger—follows a long-term quest to examine growing up in the digital age. Cell phones are ubiquitous across Norway, often under the assumption that everyone must use them for payment, reading, tickets, and identity verification.

Concerns are well-documented: Identity theft, bank fraud, and location tracking. Mental health and socialization must be watched closely and carefully, especially during formative years and notably for addictive behavior. Cyberbullying and cyberharassment grind down children who are also exposed to conspiracists fabricating and spreading misinformation and disinformation. Free, phone-compatible artificial intelligence programs complete homework.

Vying for online attention and peer validation leads to instantly regrettable socialmedia postings in addition to lethal “challenges” and hoaxes. Young children might not understand the dangers, while teenagers can deliberately seek risky actions.

On the flip side (for when phones used to flip open), cell phones enhance education, social skills, and mental health. Instant access to information and people anywhere opens minds, helps learn and practice languages, can simulate travel without the costs, and introduces new cultures and perspectives. Classroom exercises tailored to each student

can offer gaming and training—advanced, up-to-date fun!—far beyond chalkboard or whiteboard capabilities.

Aside from thumb strains, could all this phone use physically harm children?

Some recent and older studies looked for links in Norway between cell phone use and brain tumors in children. In line with regular findings from many other countries, no significant risk could be confirmed. Scientists are understandably cautious. Not all factors could ever be considered, the cancer type and measurements of cell phone use must be highly specific, and occasional disagreement appears in discussions.

Perhaps cell phones have zero effect or perhaps their (over)use compounds or exacerbates medical risks. The technology shifts

quickly, from the clunky bricks pressed to our ears to the sleekness resting in our pockets or strapped to our arms with wired or wireless earbuds. Changes to the hardware, networks, and use pattern affect the exposure baseline that children and others might have.

And how many children’s lives have been saved by cell phones? Whether calls to police when threatened, a helpline when suicidal, or a caregiver when lost, cell phones can decrease health risks for children. Location tracking during an emergency call speeds up response. Livestreaming to the responders a fire, crash, or injury means they prepare en route.

Overreliance, though, can cost lives. Phones might be out of battery, far from a signal, stolen, lost, or inaccessible, meaning that help is not merely a rapid dial away.

Locations without cell phone coverage are diminishing. Next year, the European Union expects airlines to permit full use of cell phones during commercial flights. Norway, despite not being in the European Union, should follow suit.

Implications ripple far beyond our conversations annoying fellow passengers. During the Jan. 15, 2023, plane crash in Pokhara, Nepal, one passenger inadvertently livestreamed his own death. A generation ago, calls came from hijacked aircraft on

Private companies plan to launch thousands of satellites into low-Earth orbit to provide fast internet to anyone’s phone with an unobstructed view of the sky. How long until we have it indoors, in deep-sea submarines, and while exploring caves?

Science-fiction foreshadows: No longer will phones be an external device, instead they will be integrated into our bodies.

We might hold our hand up to our face, speaking into our pinky finger and listening through our thumb. It could be hands-free, with a microphone in our throat, the receiver implanted into our ear, and connecting through brain commands. When might chips communicate brain to brain to exchange thoughts while sensing what the other person experiences?

New perils emerge. Could hacking read our thoughts? Are there medical dangers from non-stop exposure to chips over years, particularly for children as their bodies develop? What could be the psychological implications of never being alone? As we know from the internet today, it does not mean avoiding loneliness.

The research agenda is as never-ending as communication, hoping that scientists offer recommendations to avoid problems before they become prevalent. Do you have ideas to investigate about cell phones, children, and health? Just call me anytime.

Ilan Kelman is Professor of Disasters and Health at University College London, England, and Professor II at the University of Agder, Norway. His overall research interest is linking disasters and health, including the integration of climate change into disaster research and health research. Follow him at www.ilankelman.org and @ILANKELMAN on Twitter and Instagram.

10 • July 7, 2023 RESEARCH &
SCIENCE
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Photo: Colourbox Cell phones are a valuable learning tool and can even save lives, but how much of them is a good thing when it comes to children?

From trailer to welcoming brick-and-mortar storefront

Viking Soul Food opens up new Portland restaurant

Transitioning from operating solely out of “Gudrun,” Megan Walhood and Jeremy Daniels’ “57-year-old Streamline Duchess aluminum silver trailer,” and into a storefront on Portland’s Woodstock Boulevard just makes sense. The co-owners of one of Portland’s most famous food carts, Viking Soul Food, are seizing an opportunity to expand their menu and serve cocktails, beer, wine, and mead.

Their new restaurant opened for business at the tail end of 2022 and the expanded space will allow them to add take-home deli items in addition to prepared food. It seats eight to 10 people at its bar and is a second location from their original cart on Belmont Street. Selling deli items like their house smoked salmon, homemade Mjølner Beet Hot Sauce, and other sides like lingonberries is a natural fit. Viking Soul Food is already a holiday destination for those looking to get fresh lefse for Thanksgiving and Christmas.

The cart gained a following for the robust menu, specializing in their beloved savory lefse wraps. From-scratch elements like handmade lefse, an original meatball recipe, and of course the decadent gjetost gravy even caught the eye of Guy Fieri of Food Network’s “Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives” last year who said, “How have I existed this long without having this?”

When you eat Viking Soul Food’s offerings, you can taste the care and attention to detail in each dish. Megan brought her Scandinavian traditions to meld with Jeremy’s fresh ideas on street food and what that combination could be. They describe it as, “...taking a somewhat irreverent approach to tradition, while maintaining the utmost reverence for the ingredients [we] prepare.”

Over the past six years, I’ve eaten a variety of their menu items—Troll Snack at Nordic Northwest’s ScanFair, seasonal mushroom hand pies at the cart in the fall, and each time I order a lefse wrap. The lefse is tender, yet strong enough to hold a hearty filling. While the meatball wrap is a little on the sweet side, I was so satisfied when I tried the pølse wrap for the first time this March. The mix of the meat with the bright cabbage really hit the spot. And the salmon wrap is always a go to, flavorful and fresh.

At the suggestion of the staff, I ordered a couple of sides. The bright purple pickled eggs, complete with black pepper mayo and salmon caviar, were a fantastic bite. But my favorite thing I ate that day was the Root Vegetable Champ, mashed red and

sweet potato cooked with cream and herbs. Pairing this with the completely unique beet hot sauce was such an unexpected flavor combination, and it was perfectly filling.

I hope this transition will open up new avenues for Viking Soul Food, which had customers filtering through steadily on a Saturday afternoon. The intentionality and incredible food that Megan and Jeremy have created reflects in the inviting atmosphere of this new restaurant. Definitely support them if you find yourself in southeast Portland.

All photos by Laila Simon

July 7, 2023 • 11 TASTE OF NORWAY
LaiLa SimoN Minneapolis Left: Viking Soul Food is a new addition to the Portland, Ore., restaurant scene with its new brick-and-mortar locale in the southeastern part of the city. Right: The atmosphere at Viking Soul Food is cozy and friendly, with a selection of Scandinavian artifacts to display, including a vintage cookbook. Left: The wooden ceiling beams, floor, and bar help create a warm Nordic ambiance that is also at home in its Pacific Northwest setting. Center: Viking Soul Food offers a variety of take-home items, all created with the owners’ special twist on Nordic cuisine. Right: Scandinavian Root Vegetable Champ is a favorite dish at Viking Soul Food, where all menu items all prepared with a reverence for ingredients.
Viking Soul Food 4422 S.E. Woodstock Blvd. Portland, OR 97206 Open every day vikingsoulfood.com

A Norwegian-American summer grilling adventure

Spiced Salmon Skewers with Lemon for extra zing

Norwegian American

These Spiced Salmon Skewers with Lemon have earned a well-deserved spot as a family summertime favorite since they first appeared in Bon Appetit magazine back in 2013. They come together in only 20 minutes and are on the table in 30, making them a perfect quick weeknight meal. And yet they are elegant enough for company! Yes, these salmon skewers do it all.

I haven’t changed much from the original recipe other than doubling the amount of spice rub (this seems to be a common theme for me) as I love the flavor it brings to the salmon and the way it intermingles with the lemon. The combination of sesame seeds, fresh oregano, cumin, and red pepper flakes might seem unusual but trust me.... it works.

EXPERT TIP

I’ve really got just one tip for Spiced Salmon Skewer success: Clean and oil the grill grates generously before you put the skewers on. Salmon has a tendency to stick and we don’t want that. Right before the skewers go on, I scrape the hot grill well with a wire grilling brush and use a pair of long tongs to rub a canola oil-soaked paper towel over the grill grates several times. This will help keep the salmon skewers from sticking.

SERVING SUGGESTIONS

I usually keep my sides simple: maybe some whole-wheat couscous or quinoa tossed with olive oil and fresh herbs from the garden. A barley salad would also be a nice choice. Grilled zucchini or asparagus rounds everything out nicely and is just another thing to throw on the grill next to the salmon. Easy!

Please give these Spiced Salmon Skewers with Lemon a try before grilling season ends. You won’t be disappointed and maybe you’ll just find a new summertime favorite to look forward to every year.

Taste of Norway Editor Kristi Bissell is the founder of True North Kitchen, a Nordic food blog designed for the American home cook. She enjoys creating recipes that celebrate her Scandinavian heritage and that approach traditional Nordic ingredients in a modern, fresh and approachable way. Kristi is a native of Minneapolis and currently resides in Omaha, Neb. When she’s not cooking and baking in her cozy kitchen, Kristi teaches private and corporate yoga classes and leads Scandinavian cooking and baking workshops. Visit true-north-kitchen.com

Left: Fresh oregano leaves, fresh lemon, and a special selection of spices give your Spiced Salmon Skewers a certain Nordic summer zing.

Kristi Bissell

Right: Spiced Salmon Skewers come together in just 20 minutes and are on the table in 30 minutes for a perfect summer family dinner for your family and guests.

SPICED SALMON SKEWERS With Lemon

INGREDIENTS

• 2 lbs. salmon, skinned and cut into 1¼-inch cubes

• 3 tbsps. chopped fresh oregano leaves

• 4 tsps. sesame seeds

• 2 tsps. ground cumin

• ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

• 2-3 lemons, sliced thin

• 1-2 tbsps. olive oil

• Coarse salt

• Canola or vegetable oil for oiling the grill

MAKES 4 SKEWERS

SPECIAL EQUIPMENT

• Four 6-inch bamboo skewers soaked for at least an hour in water

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Heat grill to medium-high. Combine oregano, sesame seeds, cumin, and red pepper flakes in a small bowl. Set aside.

2. Thread salmon cubes and lemon slices (folded in half) onto skewers, alternating as you go and starting and ending with salmon.

3. Brush or rub salmon skewers with olive oil and sprinkle oregano mixture evenly over both sides. Season with coarse salt.

4. Generously oil the grill and reduce heat to medium. Grill skewers until salmon is just opaque throughout, about 3 minutes per side. Serve.

12 • July 7, 2023 TASTE OF NORWAY
Photos:

A traditional favorite with a new Nordic flair Cardamom Peach Cobbler for a taste of summer

kriSTi BiSSeLL

Taste of Norway Editor

The Norwegian American

If I had to pick a favorite summer dessert, it would probably be peach cobbler: billowy soft biscuits sitting on top of a luscious, sweet peach filling—it’s so simple and so good, especially with a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

This recipe for Cardamom Peach Cobbler was inspired by a summer issue of Martha Stewart Living. I just love the idea of bringing the very Nordic flavor of cardamom to something as American as peach cobbler. Indeed, variation is an absolute winner with its tender biscuits and a perfectly sweetened filling featuring sliced ripe peaches, cardamom, allspice and just a bit of vanilla extract. The spices and vanilla are subtle here, allowing the peaches to be the star of the show but still providing something special to elevate this basic dessert from good to great.

And let’s not forget the biscuits! Perfectly crisp on the outside and tender on the inside, they are the perfect complement to the saucy peach goodness underneath. And these biscuits get extra Scandi points because they are made with skyr (Icelandic yogurt). If you don’t have skyr, no problem! Greek yogurt makes an excellent substitute.

EXPERT TIPS

While this Cardamom Peach Cobbler is a very simple recipe, here are a few tips and tricks to ensure peachy perfection every time:

• Start with firm, ripe peaches. You’re looking for the Goldilocks of peaches.... not too hard and not too soft. Just right.

• Peel your peaches with a serrated peeler. This is the easiest and most efficient way to peel a peach. If you don’t have a serrated peeler, I’ve included instructions in the recipe notes for blanching and shocking the peaches to remove the peel. This process is a little more involved but works just fine.

• Bake the fruit by itself before adding the biscuits. I learned this trick from the good people at the America’s Test Kitchen. The peach filling will benefit from a longer cook time than the biscuits. This also means that the biscuits are going on top of a hot filling, which helps them from becoming gummy on the bottom. Win-win!

• Keep the ingredients for the biscuit dough and the dough itself COLD. This is the secret to tender, flaky biscuits. Much like pie dough, biscuits are made by cutting cold butter into the dry ingredients. This helps create that flaky layered effect we are looking for in a biscuit.

• Don’t overwork the dough. All it needs is 8-10 pulses in the food processor to cut in the butter and then a quick mix with a fork and your fingers until the dough just comes together. Done!

CARDAMOM PEACH COBBLER MAKES 6 SERVINGS

INGREDIENTS

For the filling:

• 1/3 cup granulated sugar

• ¼ tsp. ground cardamom

• ¼ tsp. ground allspice

• 2 tsps. cornstarch

• Pinch of fine salt

• 2½ lbs. ripe but firm peaches peeled, pitted, and cut into wedges (about 6 cups)*

• ½ tsp. vanilla extract

• 1 tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice

For the biscuit topping:

• 1 cup all-purpose flour

• 3 tbsps. granulated sugar

• ¾ tsp. baking powder

• ¼ tsp. baking soda

• ¼ tsp. fine salt

• 5 tbsps. cold unsalted butter cut into ¼-inch cubes

• ¼ cup skyr or Greek yogurt (not nonfat)

• 2 tbsps. cold water

• turbinado sugar for sprinkling

• vanilla ice cream or whipped cream for serving

Notes

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Preheat the oven to 400°.

2. Make the filling: Whisk sugar, cardamom, allspice, cornstarch, and salt together in a medium bowl. Add peaches, vanilla extract, and lemon juice and gently toss until the peaches are evenly coated. Transfer fruit to a 9-inch deep-dish pie plate and bake until fruit begins to release liquid, about 20-25 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, make the biscuit topping: Combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together in the work bowl of a food processor. Pulse until combined. Scatter cubes of butter over the top and pulse until the mixture resembles wet sand with a few pea-sized pieces of butter, about 8–10 pulses. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl. Add skyr or yogurt and water. Mix together using a fork and/or your fingers until a dough forms (be careful not to over-mix).

4. Once the fruit is out of the oven, use an ice cream scoop or large spoon to drop 6 equal-sized mounds of dough on top of the hot peach mixture, leaving at least a half inch between each biscuit. Sprinkle the dough mounds with turbinado sugar and transfer to the oven. Bake until the filling is bubbly and biscuits are golden brown, about 20 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. Serve warm with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream.

*The easiest way to peel peaches is to use a serrated peeler. If you don’t have a serrated peeler, you can use a paring knife to score each peach with an “X” at the base and blanch the peaches in a pot of simmering water for 20–30 seconds. Remove the peaches from the simmering water and immediately transfer to a bowl of ice water. This blanching and shocking process will loosen the skins and you should be able to peel them easily by hand beginning where you made the “X.”

July 7, 2023 • 13 TASTE OF NORWAY Join the fun Become a Social Member of the Swedish Club. 1920 Dexter Ave N., Seattle, WA 98109 | 206-283-1090 Free parking The Swedish Club
Photos: Kristi Bissell Left: Cardamom Peach Cobbler makes for a perfect summer dessert with its luscious sweet peach filling and billowy soft biscuits. Right: In the United States, peaches are harvested from the end of June until the end of August.

Dual film review: The Trip and Royalteen

Two decidedly divergent Norwegian love stories

The Trip (2021): A couple of cutthroats!

Synopsis: A deviously dysfunctional couple head to a remote cabin, each with covert intent to kill the other. But before they can carry out their perverse plans, unexpected visitors drop in. Suddenly, this grossly impaired pair are presented with an even greater danger.

When a swift shovel to the back of the head is only just getting this pandemonium party percolatin’ you know you are in for one rip-roarin’ rambunctious ride. Oh, you’ll get that and a helluva lot more in 2021’s deliriously duh-hark comedy crime thriller The Trip (released in Norway as I onde dager, In bad days)

Swedish Noomi Rapace and Norwegian Aksel Hennie are at the center of the storm as Lisa and Lars, a Norwegian entertainment industry couple whose marriage has crashed face-first into the rocks. So unctuous has this union become that each spouse has hatched their own perverse plan to do in the other while on vacation at a remote lakeside house in the woods.

But before either can get about finishing off what they started, three uninvited male guests suddenly drop in, literally, crashing down from out of the attic onto the master bedroom floor. Freshly escaped from prison, the trio is desperate, ruthless, and on the run.

Things can only get gorier from here.

And, man, do they ever. Death, destruction, and debauchery on a silly stupid scale ensues. And in quite creative fashion, too, as delivered

to us with delight most deviant, courtesy of writer/director Tommy Wirkola.

Before all is said and done-in amid the delirious din, we watch wide-eyed as weapons ranging from billiard balls stuffed in a sock, whirring lawn mower blades, and powerboat propellers (along with more conventional means of malice like knives and a good ol’ fashioned double-barrel shotgun) disfigure and dispose of character upon crucified character.

Some may see the over-the-top mayhem presented in The Trip as cartoonish. So granted. But this sure ain’t the cutesy kid stuff of Tom and Jerry or Pepé Le Pew.

Nope. More like animating the degenerate deeds of Bonnie and Clyde or the Marquis de Sade.

And though you would not imagine such to be the case, what we wind up with here is a love story. And definitely not of the syrupy sweet romantic variety, either. No, much rather that of mutual blind affection for a bulging bank account.

One that is feverishly fed by, and amassed at the expense of, a misguidedly sympathetic and ever-gullible public.

And now, with all due props to the great Monty Python, for something completely different...

Like, Norwegian and Swedish different, brødre og søstre, brothers and sisters.

Enter last year’s un-run-of-the-mill romantic drama Royalteen

Royalteen (2022)

Synopsis: This is the unconventional tale of a Norwegian prince and the new girl in school. The two quickly develop feelings for each

other but are constantly on guard that their relationship might spiral into an impossible situation. While he must put an entire nation on his shoulders, she carries dark deception on hers.

If you think that this sounds like it’s a PG parable aimed squarely at the tween set and younger, then think again. For this is a frank fable fashioned for young adults and older that has amply earned it’s Norwegian TV-MA classification and then some.

Royalteen serves as the poster child for why we have that familiar phrase, “Parental discretion advised.” No joke.

The filmmakers (three co-writers and dual-directors) thrust their audience into a blunt and unblinking exploration of substance abuse, social media character assassination, teen sex and their potential repercussions, and the wanton privilege perpetrated upon the masses of massively less wealth and power.

Ines Høysæter Asserson is incandescent here as Lana, a young woman with an already well established sordid past. And the present only continues to punish her with relentless threat from those heartlessly wronged compounded by the constant fear of exposing that which Lana desperately struggles to keep a secret.

Add to this a burgeoning love affair with the dashing Kalle, who just so happens to be the Prince of Norway (Mathias Storhøi in an engagingly vulnerable performance), and you have got one teenage gal being tumultuously tested a bit beyond determining which pair of Nikes will look hottest with that new sweater.

It is not at all clear what to make of these final seconds that abruptly conclude

Royalteen. Is this malignancy infesting from within unmercifully manifesting itself on the surface? Are we watching the afflictions of the mother at last being visited upon on the vulnerable child?

Or is it simply an alarming case of an age-old truth that has come to pass.

No matter our station in life, in the end, we all justly reap that which we have sown.

The Trip and Royalteen are both streaming now on Netflix.

John Smistad is a published author of short stories, poems, essays, and movie reviews. He lives and loves with his family and cat in the Puget Sound area of Washington state. He is the fiercely proud son of a native Norwegian dad. (He loves his mom, too.) You can follow him as on his blog at thequickflickcritic.blogspot.com . His new book of short stories, Sliced Lives , is now available for purchase: Sliced Lives: Volume 1 – Kindle edition by Smistad, John, Smistad, Jane. Literature & Fiction Kindle eBooks at Amazon.com

14 • July 7, 2023
ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT
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Direct from the Cannes Film Festival

A big film about Liv Ullmann takes center stage

If you have ever been to Cannes on the French Riviera, it is likely that you will be left with the feeling that this is where you want to return. And if you have never been there, I would recommend that you put it as one of the items on your bucket list.

There are many reasons why people just love Cannes in the time between April and October. Here are some of them: As a rule, sun, blue skies, and just the right temperature. Beautiful beaches, opportunity for great food experiences. Friendly Frenchmen (and women) who understand that they live off visiting people who are either on holiday or at a festival.

Speaking of festivals. There are actually three festivals that have to do with media and film: MIPTV in April, MIPCOM in October and the greatest of them all, the Cannes Film Festival in May.

Perhaps the biggest talking point in the international film arena this year was Johnny Depp and Indiana Jones, but as you may know, I am a super-nationalist Norwegian, so I was completely caught up in what is happening with the Norwegian film industry. Yes, we are a small country and do not have the biggest international cinema productions, but most Norwegian films are not to be missed. After all, Troll and The Worst Person in the World were Norwegian films.

There was a lot going on at the festival palace in Cannes: seminars, film screenings, purchase and sale agreements were signed, and it was almost teeming with celebrities and personalities from the industry. Maybe it’s not quite right to say that it’s “boiling” in there (and out), but things do happen ...

Across from the festival palace, you find “the Norwegian office.” The Norwegian Film Institute (NFI) shares premises with the other Nordic countries’ corresponding organizations. One of the people with the most experience at NFI is Stine Oppegaard. There is little Norwegian-related activity that Stine is not an important part of.

I contacted Stine and wanted to know if she had time in her busy Cannes schedule to have a chat with me. Incredibly, she said yes, and I was excited to see how our little informal conversation would turn out.

“How many Norwegian films are shown here in Cannes?” I asked.

“In Cannes, there is a festival and a sales market, so there are more departments, you could say, and more categories. The biggest film is the documentary about Liv Ullman, there are short films, and then we have six films that are presented on the market by the respective sales agents. We also attend seminars and have representatives there. For example, we were on a panel where the discussion focused on how to get people back to the cinema. An important topic,” she said.

“What I have worked with the most is the Liv Ullman film,” she said. “This is the second film the director has teamed up with Liv. The first one was Liv og Ingmar, which was a fantastic film. This one is also very nice. She has done so much more than just being an actress. Her efforts for UNICEF are greater than most of you realize and quite amazing.

“Liv Ullmann and her entourage in Cannes was made up of over 40 people, so it goes without saying that there is some logistics involved to make it all work on all levels.

“The press reviews of Liv Ullmann—A Road Less Travelled were very positive. As one reviewer wrote: “If you didn’t like Liv Ullman before, you will at least after seeing the film.”

“You have attended the film festival in Cannes for many years,” I said. “How would you say that the film festival in Cannes has changed?”

“It was more cumbersome before, we worked more with paper and took longer, while now in digital the world is more efficient, more helpful, and more hectic than before,” said Stine.

“Furthermore, it is interesting to note that there is less Norwegian press present than before. The fact is that there are more of you now who are producers. Now there is deepened understanding that you have to be in attendance to present your films.”

“Would you say that Norwegian film is more attractive than before? I’m especially thinking of Nordic Noir,” I asked.

“I would say it shows you going up and down a bit. Someone will claim anyway that Norwegian film has never been more popular than right now and it may be, but my impression is that it varies,” she said.

In conclusion, what will I briefly say that sums up this year’s Film Festival in Cannes:

I would like to do that with two words: Liv Ullmann! She and the film are fantastic! I would also like to mention the great work done by Anne Lajla Utsi and Liisa Holmberg. What they do and achieve for Sámi film is admirable, and it will be exciting to see what comes of Sámi productions in the future.

Geir Mæland is the founder and manager of Films of Norway, a Norwegian filmstreaming service based in Stavanger, Norway.

Top Norwegian highlights from Cannes

Liv Ullmann–A Road Less Travelled, documentary — Divided in three chapters, this film explores the iconic actor, writer, director, author, and activist Liv Ullmann’s multifaceted life and her extraordinary international career spanning over 66 years. This is the story of an ever-evolving human being full of openness and curiosity, who embraces possibilities and uncertainties, demonstrates what it means to be a woman in a male-dominated world, and shows how to find and use one’s voice without losing one’s integrity, sense of humor, or friends. Using intimate contributions from some of Ullmann’s close companions, the film delves deep into the core values underneath Ullmann’s universal appeal and longevity and celebrates one of the world’s most respected and revered artists.

Norwegian Dream, drama — Robert, a 19-year-old Polish immigrant working at a fish factory in Norway, is busy earning money to pay off the debts of his mother. Coming from an LGBTQIA+ free zone in Poland, he struggles with his feelings for his Norwegian colleague Ivar, especially when it turns out Ivar is a drag queen. When a strike begins among the Polish workers at the factory, Robert is bribed into breaking it. Will he take the much-needed money or stand up for love and his rights?

Songs of Earth, documentary — Songs of Earth is a majestic symphony for the big screen. With Olin’s 85-year-old father as a guide, we experience Norway’s most scenic valley, Oldedalen in Nordfjord. This is where he grew up and where generations before him have lived in balance with nature. Majestic images of wild mountains, calving glaciers, and bustling wildlife go side by side with the parents’ stories about the generations who trod the trails, the relationship we have with nature, and what is valuable in life. The music is composed of unique sound recordings—nature’s own melodies, translated and performed by the London Contemporary Orchestra.

Teddy’s Christmas, children’s film — Snowflakes, fragrant almonds, and twinkling lights create the perfect atmosphere at 8-year-old Mariann’s Christmas market visit. Suddenly, she discovers an unbelievable secret: on the top shelf of the lottery booth, the sweetest teddy bear has just moved his head and started sniffing. Feeling an instant connection with the living toy, Mariann can’t think of any better wish for Christmas and tries to win him. Teddy, however, has different plans, dreaming of a wealthy owner who can teach him everything the world has to offer. But when Teddy is taken away to a woodshed, his new best friend, the hedgehog Bolla, helps him realize what counts in life.

July 7, 2023 • 15 ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT
geir mæLaNd FiLmS oF Norway Geneva
Photo courtesy of Geir Mæland At this year’s Cannes Film Festival, Geir Mæland of Films of Noway was excited to meet up with Stine Oppegaard of the Norwegian Film Institute. Photo: Geir Mæland Each May, film industry representatives from all over the world gather in Cannes on the French Riviera at the star-studded Cannes Film Festival. This year, Norway was among the key players at Cannes, with the screening of a new documentary about veteran actor Liv Ullmann emerging as a festival highlight. Photo: Beate Oma Dahle / NTB Veteran actor Liv Ullmann was front and center at Cannes this year with the screening of the documentary Liv Ullmann—A Road Less Travelled.

Two drunken returns ...

It’s a bright month that brought us the returns of two of Mysteryland’s most beloved sleuths—and this June, that is exactly what happened. No sooner does Norway’s favorite down-and-out copper, Jo Nesbø’s Harry Hole, return from the half-dead, but across the way in Ireland the seedily delightful John Banville’s Dr. Quirke is also back with us, drunker than three goats as usual but sharp as ever when called upon to detect. Both will be ready for our bookshelves in July and a good dose of summer reading.

Killing Moon

The new entry in the Hole canon, Killing Moon—the 13th installment to be precise—finds the now-suicidal Harry mourning the death of his beloved Rakel and drinking himself into oblivion. He has relocated from Oslo to Los Angeles—not a bad choice historically, since so many dreams have gone there to die.

Harry himself is near death: a pitifullooking ghost of a man whose past adventures have taken their toll on his perpetually battered body, because in Harry’s line of work, a good battering is the order of the day. If you count the injuries, Harry has by this point lost a finger, sustained an Ahablike scar that runs from his mouth outward, and has, despite his endless stumbles to his beloved Schroder’s Bar, evidently consumed little sustenance that isn’t liquid.

He’s got a gun back in his roach-ridden hotel room, and he plans to use it. Harry’s real problem is that he is brimful of guilt— guilt over all the people who—all these pages later—he hasn’t been able to save: Rakel first, of course, but so many others before and since: “Yes, that was the story of his life. What the hell, soon he’d have no one to let down anyway.”

Enter the aged Lucille, who materializes down the bar from where Harry sits, hoisting what he assumes will be his last drink before he eats that gun of his. Lucille has invested money in a film (it’s Hollywood) and lost heavily: the mobsters are after her, and she can’t meet the vigorish, let alone the whole bundle. All this comes out as she and Harry drunkenly evaluate old rockers, and in about the length of time it takes to swizzle a stick has a raison d’ etre again, Lucille. He agrees to get the money—$960,000 that Lucille owes within 10 days—and the suspense clock kicks in.

As far as suspense goes, we could stand a little more of that this time out. Harry next cleans himself up—an enterprise not unlike shellacking a slum—and Lucille kindly buys

him a suit. Looking slightly less like himself, Harry is off to Oslo, where he goes to work for a wheeler-dealer businessman named Markus Roed, who has been implicated in the deaths of two young women who do not seem to be linked by anything but the fact that they attended a party of his. Harry dislikes Roed—as does the reader—but Roed has what Harry needs: the money.

In Oslo, Harry assembles the kind of team that we more associate with the Mission: Impossible franchise. Why, look: here’s Harry’s old pal Stale Aune, the psychologist. He’s now dying of cancer, but he is more than willing to sign on for what is likely his last outing. And there is Øystein, the cab driver-philosopher, and Truls Berntsen, a cop who is even more corrupt than all the other cops in the Harry Hole series— and that’s saying something. The structural problem with this team is that they are given to talk—and talk. And wow, does that slow down narrative progress.

But meanwhile, the two murders bring us to where author Nesbø wants us: there’s a serial killer on the loopy loose, and that is, as we know, Harry’s specialty. All of Oslo puts up with Harry when he is on the scent of Oslo’s next maniac.

As many reviewers have noted, these serial killers have often threatened to turn several Hole novels into something near torture porn: the woman-as-victim is a staple of this

series and an unfortunate one, given the realities of the real world out there. Early in the book when we get a conversation about Harvey Weinstein, I had to grimace: was there ever a Nesbø villain who wasn’t a version of Weinstein? They all hate women, and they all do terrible things to them. Killer Moon’s Lector-ish baddie is given to ripping open a skull and popping the victim’s brains out, but allegorically, the real-life Weinstein was up to the same thing.

The novel grinds on to near 500 pages, a lot of them pretty grisly. But several million Nesbø fans know what they want, and this must be it. For my part, violence against women has become as repulsive to me in print as in life. In the future, perhaps Harry— an endless fascinating character—could take on something just as lethal but less sexist. If, of course, Harry stays alive.

The Lock-Up

As mystery devotees know, Dublin’s John Banville, a regular contender for the Nobel Prize for Literature for his “literary” fiction, has a side gig as Benjamin Black, who chronicles the 1950s adventures of Dr. Quirke, a pathologist who could probably drink even Harry Hole under the table. Damn does this guy knock them back.

Of course, Quirke, like Harry, has reason: his bride, Evelyn, who brought the ever-morose Quirke a kind of happiness,

was gunned down in the last episode of the Quirke series, April in Spain. Not only that: the nebulous Inspector Strafford, first introduced in the novel Snow, has remained a reality in Quirke’s life since Strafford saved it in the same deadly skirmish that killed Evelyn.

A year later in The Lock-Up, Quirke still mourns; resents Strafford for complex reasons, and behaves churlishly to his adult daughter Phoebe, whose relationship with her father can best be described as rocky.

But Quirke gets the distraction he needs when Rosa Jacobs, a scholar and activist, turns up dead—evidently a suicide. Well, there are few suicides in Quirke’s world and this one, of course, bears investigating. Suddenly Quirke, Strafford, and the ubiquitous Inspector Hackett, a longtime Quirke ally/ antagonist, are sniffing out clues and butting heads. The dead woman is Jewish, and that opens up the past of this case in ways the reader doesn’t see coming—nor should, because the ever-surprising Banville/Black is very good at what he does.

And the prose! To die for—or at least to re-read for. What magic. Quirke on the orphanage where he grew up: “Of the orphanage he wished to remember nothing, although he did.” Of Hackett and liquor: “He didn’t want another drink, but he needed one.” The bons mots just flow. *******

Both of the novels are written by authors at the top of their games. Both continue to chronicle lost, brilliant antiheroes whose ruined lives contain vestiges of ourselves. And yes—if you drink while you read—single malt scotch goes well with Quirke.

Jerry Holt is a novelist, playwright, teacher, and public speaker. He is associate professor of English at Purdue University Northwest and a recipient of Purdue’s 2015 Dreamer Award, recognized for work that has “embodied Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.’s vision of service to others.” Holt has written four major plays, one novel, and nine short plays. His acclaimed novel, The Killing of Strangers, focuses on several mysteries surrounding the Kent State University shootings on May 4, 1970.

16 • July 7, 2023 BOOKS
Haul the Water, Haul the Wood
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Ole’s Promise The Music Man
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About Norwegian sweethearts who pioneered
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Haul the Water, Haul the Wood The life of a musician from Norway who brought music to the Dakota prairies at the turn of the century.

Bespoke itineraries offer fresh perspectives

Up Norway offers new views of the old country

The

The

“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.”

You thought Norway’s greatest export was scenery. That will always be important, but Torunn Tronsvang, founder of Up Norway, has developed a novel idea for a travel agency. Use Norway as the stage or prop to promote the culture and values inherent to the country.

About 10 years ago, Tronsvang was working in luxury tourism in Dubai, Switzerland, Bhutan, Thailand, and the Maldives.

“Norway was not really taken seriously as a travel destination,” said Tronsvang in a Zoom interview with Editor-in-chief Lori Ann Reinhall and me when she was visiting Norway House in Minneapolis.

“What we were marketing abroad was really limited and very boring. I met many travelers who were super curious about Norway, but they never ended up going there. Then, I moved back to Norway, and I started working as a hospitality consultant. I traveled extensively all over the country. I realized that the best of what Norway has to offer is kept secret from international travelers. So with new digital marketing and sales channels on the horizons, it seemed quite obvious to me that someone should start a business to connect international travelers with the very best of what Norway has to offer.”

Up

Why shouldn’t that someone be her?

“I didn’t have any capital,” she said.

“I didn’t know how to start a business. I decided to go back to school, and I did my

master’s thesis on Up Norway as a business idea. I basically remortgaged my apartment, got the money to do my college degree, and did just that. Around the same time, the Nor-

wegian Research Council introduced a program where they said that they would give $100,000 each to one million Norwegian students who wanted to realize their own business ideas. I applied, scored the capital that I needed, quit my job, and I got started. That was in 2016.”

There are several Norwegian cultural attitudes that drive the company. One is to get travelers to slow down. Travel doesn’t have to involve being flustered or anxious, waiting in long lines, or rushing to make the next item on the tour group itinerary. This is connected to the concept of “kos.”

“Kos is equivalent to the Danish notion of hygge,” explained Tronsvang. “This is the sense or feeling that you have in Norway when you have the time to get immersed, like sitting in front of a crackling fire, seeing the sun set into the ocean from a nice cabin, or enjoying a good meal by just peeling cold shrimps, putting them on the white toast with mayo and lemon. It’s all these small things that are part of our culture that gives you this feeling of ‘I don’t want to be anywhere else than where I am exactly at this moment with these people.’ That’s kos. You can’t achieve kos if you do things fast. You need to be present in the moment.”

Can we fast-paced Americans achieve kos, when we might have only a couple of weeks of vacation?

“We tell them that, ‘no, you can’t do all these things within this short time span,’” she said. “We use technology to be able to get a closer dialogue with people, to be able to map out their interests, motivations, who

SUMMER RECREATION July 7, 2023 • S1
Photo courtesy of Up Norway Norway’s Torunn Tronsvang and Henriette Bendiksen celebrated the 17th of May at Norway House in Minneapolis. Photo courtesy of Up Norway The picturesque fishing village of Kalvåg on Norway’s western coastline is only one of a multitude of treasures to be explored on a Norwegian summer travel adventure.
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they are, to match them with the right experience. So if people tell us, ‘we want to go here, here, here,’ we say, ‘tell me why you want to do that? What motivates you? What is your reason for doing this journey?’ By doing that mapping, we can easily say, okay, well, you shouldn’t go here, you should do this.”

Experiential cultural travel

What is experiential cultural travel? On the Up Norway website, Tronsvang writes, “I set out to create a company designed to fulfill the most thoughtful travelers’ interest in experiences off the beaten path—and closer to heart in terms of authenticity, involvement, and connection. I hoped to do so while creating better practices in ecotourism and responsible social impact. The more I looked at the challenges of traveling in responsible ways, the more I realized those I hoped to serve were already passionate about being part of a culture of global solutions.

“To my delight, it was clear that many of those answers could be found and exemplified in our Norwegian lifestyle. By recognizing this new traveler, less interested in jockeying for positions in line at crowded destinations, I knew I could present an authentic culture at its best.”

There is so much thought that has gone into the nature of the company and even the name Up Norway touches many spheres.

“I wanted to have a name that was easy and scalable if we decided to go to Scandinavia or the Nordics,” explained Tronsvang.

“I wanted to say a lot in little, so ‘Up.’ Most people have to go up north to get to Norway. Everything we do is upgraded. It should feel like you are on a priority ticket through Norway. When you travel with Up Norway, it’s also about Norway. It’s about getting up, about being active. It’s not about sitting or lying on the beach, it’s about getting up from the chair and out. At the time, I had just watched the Disney movie, Up, which is about an old man whose wife dies. Then, he puts hot air balloons on his house and goes out into the world to fulfill their dreams. We fulfill people’s dreams. For us, there’s a lot of meaning in those two letters.”

If you visit the Up Norway website, there are two ways to book travel, choose among their packages or have a journey tailor made for your interests. Choose from: New Views from the Old Country; Tracing Norway’s Super Women; Magical Northern Lights at 70 Degrees North; The Lofoten Islands and Manshausen Sea Cabins: Nature and Culture in Harmony; A Frozen Fairy Tale—Explore Northern Norway in Anna and Elsa’s Footsteps; Hop on the Arctic Circle Express Train; Ski Down the Fjords of the Sunnmøre

SUMMER RECREATION

Alps; Bergen, Ålesund, and Beyond—Heritage Awakened; Modern Luxury in the Realm of Norwegian Folklore; Norway for Foodies—A Journey through Trøndelag; Norway’s Arctic Circle Region: Myths and Marvels in Helgeland; The Discovery Route—Is this Norway’s Most Sustainable Journey?; Finding “Kos” by Traveling Slow; Far Out in Svalbard; Give Me Møre, and World’s Most Northernmost Roadtrip.

Clicking on a trip provides the itinerary, description, and sustainability impact.

To create a personalized journey, prospective travelers answer a series of questions: what kind of vacation interests you? (six choices); season traveling; what are you particularly interested in doing? (seven choices); type of accommodations desired (five categories).

Up Norway has developed a vast network of partners and will research new partners, depending on the request. About 72% of a client’s dollar goes to the partners. They also work closely with Visit Norway and Innovation Norway. Up Norway has developed its own proprietary software to store their travel experiences, images, provide digital itineraries to guests, and should something go wrong, the ability for the traveler to communicate with Up Norway staff.

Many people don’t realize how big geographically Norway is and that it takes a longer time to get to certain locations, especially in the north. Up Norway has a minimum of four nights, an additional three for journeys, say, to Svalbard well above the Arctic Circle. Up Norway doesn’t do much group travel but works with a lot of solo travelers, mainly women, from age 40 to 60.

“We explain that [a minimum of nights] is because of sustainability and [that] the carbon footprint travels longer and fewer times rather than shorter and many times,” said Tronsvang.

“We don’t want people to travel with us and just touch the surface. We want them to really get immersed so they gain new knowledge. We need to facilitate cross-cultural conversations that are meaningful.

“The sustainability goal that we identify the closest is to ‘the protect and strengthen the world’s natural and cultural heritage.’ Norway does a lot when it comes to culture by communicating what our traditions are, what our culture is, and bringing that culture back to life—not just showing it off at a museum but basically making people live that culture. We invest on behalf of every traveler in carbon compensation schemes. We encourage every traveler to combine using local, public, and private transportation, to do what the locals do, take part in the Nordic lifestyle. When we send people on an express boat that’s hybrid or book a rental car that’s hybrid or electric, we tell them why we do it. We’re focusing

S2 • July 7, 2023
Photo: David Zadig / Knutholmen Good food and wine are part of Norwegian kos. At the hotel Knutholmen in the fishing village of Kalvåg on Norway’s west coast, you can enjoy the best of Norwegian seafood and other local specialities. Photo: Francisco Noueira / Amerikalinjen Hotel Oslo’s Amerikalinjen Hotel offers a unique take on the Norwegian emigration experience. Photo: Hotel Finse
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At the Hotel Finse in the Hardanger plateau, you can experience the mountains in complete comfort.

on small, independently owned businesses, and trying to distribute travelers all over the country. In a way, we’re contributing to keeping the districts alive, which is a big part of the Norwegian way of thinking.”

Norway’s positives

Tracing Norway’s Super Women is a good example of accentuating Norway’s positives. It takes people on a journey to Oslo, Kongsvinger, and Steilneset in the north, and Fedje, outside of Bergen.

“We look at Norway’s strengths, try to develop concepts around that and portray it to international travelers,” said Tronsvang.

“We know Norway scores extremely high on gender equality. We wanted to take guests on a historic, geographic, and cultural journey through the development of those egalitarian values.

“Steilneset is this beautiful art monument, cost millions of Norwegian kroner to make, in the middle of nowhere. It tells this story about how women were burned at the stake as witches back in the 17th century when they challenged the local patriarchy.

“Then, we’re in Fedje, an island home to a collective of entrepreneurial spirited women. When I say spirited, I really mean it because they’re using whiskey as a force for good. They’re distilling what’s going to become the world’s best single malt. They have only women investors because more women need to learn how to take risk and invest because most of the world’s stock is still owned by men. Initiatives like this can help shift that balance. We still have a way to go, but this is the journey that women have gone through. We wanted to share that story.”

One of their favorite tailor-made trips was for United Therapuetics, who wanted to make a research trip to study mass timber structures. “They wanted to build the most environmentally friendly pharmaceutical production unit in the world,” said Tronsvang. “We set up a research trip where we took them to Mjøstårnet, which is the world’s tallest wooden building, near Lake Mjøsa. They met with the construction team and the suppliers of the different materials, and learned about fire safety.”

On the flip side, the most difficult experiences were specific athletes who came to Norway to run a marathon and requested a nurse who they expected to administer performance-enhancing drugs on race day, illegal in Norway.

Up Norway has also invented new travel terminology, such as travel curator and Head of Journeys.

“An art curator will curate an art collection by choosing different pieces of art that they’ll put together in one collection for a museum or a private collector,” explained Tronsvang. “That’s what we do for travel. We

pick out all these different experiences and we curate them in one seamless journey, logistically sound and targeting exactly those specific interests of that person who is going on that journey. That’s why we call it travel curator, because what we do is really a profession. It’s not just pick and choose randomly.”

Rome wasn’t built in a day and Up Norway sees its impact taking one trip at a time.

“Why this drive, hard work to start a company when you don’t know how to do

it, to continue to try to make it work, going through the pandemic when our complete market disappeared?” said Tronsvang.

“Why struggle so hard and make this my life? Norway has so many good values that we stand for. We continue to score among the highest in the world on the achievement of the sustainability goals, the Global Happiness Index, gender equality; we have built the world’s largest sovereign wealth fund. If we can use travel to showcase the best of

what Norway has to offer, maybe we can then slowly influence a few people a little bit, and then send them back to their own countries with this new inspiration, enrichment, and just being inspired to make positive change. Whether it’s for themselves, their business, their family, their friends, the world they live in. That’s what we want to achieve. I think that makes what we do really meaningful.”

July 7, 2023 • S3 SUMMER RECREATION
All photos provided by Up Norway Photo: Madis Sarglepp / Kviknes Hotel The Kviknes Hotel at Balestrand by the Sognefjord has been described as “a modern hotel with soul and atmosphere.” The Kviknes family have been the hosts there since 1877. The original hotel was built in the traditional “Swiss” style, and many new buildings have been added to enhance the offerings. Photo: David Zadig / Knutholmen Sometimes it is all about the details, like taking in the details of the traditional Norwegian woodcarving on a chair at your hotel. Photo: Torild Moland / TravelStock The Flåm Railway offers one of the most scenic train journeys in the world. It runs from the end of Aurlandsfjord up to the high mountains at Myrdal.

Two sister cities expand their aquariums Seattle and Bergen and their links to the sea

Seattle and Bergen, Norway, are sister cities that are major port cities on fjords or sounds, and which have historically been economically dependent on the marine environment. It’s no surprise then that both cities have top notch aquariums to educate visitors about the ocean and what lies in and beneath it.

Both the Seattle and Bergen aquariums are either planning to or are currently expanding their facilities. The Seattle Aquarium is currently adding an Ocean Pavilion to showcase sharks, rays, and corals from the IndoPacific. The Bergen Aquarium in Norway, also known as the National Aquarium, is planning on completely reinventing itself as the World’s Ocean Center in another part of the city. The aquarium hopes to have that new facility ready within the next five years.

This article looks at the origins of these two aquariums and their futures, with emphasis on the Bergen Aquarium.

Seattle and Ted Griffin’s orca whales

What then was called the Seattle “Marine” Aquarium opened on Pier 56 on the city waterfront in 1962. Started by entrepreneur Ted Griffin, it exhibited dolphins, sharks, and an octopus named Homer. The sharks, unfortunately, died soon after being put on exhibit. In 1965, Griffin then bought a captured orca whale, named it “Namu,” and brought it to a floating pen along the Seattle waterfront. This was the world’s first captive orca or killer whale. But Namu died in captivity within a year because of a bacterial infection, probably from the raw sewage Seattle dumped into Elliott Bay at the time.

The popularity of Namu encouraged Griffin to capture another orca for display, and soon aquariums around the world were asking Griffin to capture an orca for them, too. Indeed, the Seattle Aquarium was home to seven more orcas before it closed just before the newer Seattle Aquarium, funded by the City of Seattle, opened on Pier 59 in 1977.

As explained in the Seattle Times of Oct. 30, 2022, the new Seattle Aquarium began by renovating an existing building on Pier 59. The City of Seattle funded its construction and owns the aquarium; it’s operated by a nonprofit.

The Seattle Aquarium currently exhibits many marine ecosystems in and around Puget Sound, and has otters and seals, and a popular big rotunda dome in which big fish swim around and over the visitors. Over the years, the aquarium has been renovated and expanded to make the visitor experience more immersive and also to update the technology and habitats of the animals they keep there.

The Ocean Pavilion is coming

The Seattle Aquarium is currently building what will be called the Ocean Pavilion to exhibit sharks, rays, corals, and other animals from the tropical Pacific. It is being funded by public donations and city, county, and port funds. The Ocean Pavilion is just the first of a three-phase renovation and expansion.

Expanding and updating an aquarium involves creative fundraising and getting permits to build, usually in environmentally sensitive areas. And, as with zoos, they’re not without controversy. Over the last couple hundred years, our understanding and appreciation for animal life has evolved and how much captivity differs from the wild. Aquariums have been under increasing scrutiny for the treatment of animals and the degree to which these institutions contribute to animal and habitat conservation, as they say they do.

Aquariums also use a large amount of energy to operate, which directly or indirectly

contributes to their carbon footprint. More and more, aquariums have the challenge of being strong tourist attractions (to justify the expense), while also avoiding being called hypocritical if they themselves aren’t as sustainable and “green” as they ask their visitors to be when they return home.

How the Bergen Aquarium came to be

The Bergen Aquarium opened in 1960 through funding from the municipality of Bergen, as well as contributions from citizens and businesses. The Aquarium in Bergen came about through the foresight of the Institute of Marine Research, whose main offices are located just north of the aquarium facility. This organization is part of the Norwegian Ministry of Fisheries and Coastal Affairs, with a mission to help society to exploit the valuable assets in the sea sustainably. Aquarium CEO Aslak Sverdrup explains that in the late 1950s the institute felt there should be an aquarium close by to showcase the ocean and things that live in it.

The Bergen Aquarium has similar types of exhibits as Seattle does, with a kelp

forest, seals, and otters. Where Seattle has puffins and shorebirds, Bergen has gentoo penguins. Bergen also has exhibits showing the ecological habitats in and around Norway, as well as coral reefs and fish from Japan. They also have live alligators, amphibians, and insects.

The aquarium was expanded in 1993 and 2018 but still has much of the same tanks and technology from 1960. Perhaps because of its link to the scientific Institute of Marine Research, it collaborates on ocean cleaning projects and especially highlights the damage caused by ocean plastics.

Today, the Bergen Aquarium is a private nonprofit foundation that runs almost exclusively on the revenue from ticket sales. They have an agreement with Bergen schools that students can get in free and the schools contribute a nominal amount.

“We think it’s our task to give young people education and learning and also not only things that hit the brain but also the heart – so that they can learn more about the ocean and create that empathy and also love for the ocean,” says Sverdrup.

Human use (and abuse) of the ocean

Joachim Ekeli, an aquarium “zookeeper,” explains the great historical and continued importance of fishing to the Norwegian economy and how overfishing, global warming, ocean plastic, and other human impacts imperil not only fish but the microscopic animals and plants (plankton) on which fish and larger animals feed in the ocean food chain.

Both Sverdrup and Ekeli are eager to point out that the largest protein source in the world swims in the mesopelagic layer, found 200-1,000 meters (600-3,300 feet) under the ocean surface. The sea life largely composed of “animal plankton” like copepods and krill (both tiny crustaceans) and jellyfish, and small fish, which in turn feeds larger animals.

The Institute of Marine Research has announced its intention to move to the Dokken area of Bergen, and because they share infrastructure with the institute, the Bergen Aquarium needs to move with them. Sverdrup says this is an opportunity to build a bigger facility, update their aging aquarium technology, and provide ways for scientists and industry to showcase their ocean research.

“We need a place where people can … see the research, a place that can illustrate to visitors, to the people who live here, that we are taking a global role,” says Sverdrup.

A national competition to choose a name for their new facility produced The World Ocean Center (Verdenshav Senteret), or just “O” for short, where O represents, among other things, the “One Ocean” concept. The ocean is global, surrounding every continent, and so human actions in one part of the ocean have global effects. Sverdrup believes the new facility, which will be much more than just an aquarium, will be permitted, funded, and built within the next five years.

“We are going to build something that lasts 100 years, and will be forward looking,” he says.

As part of raising global awareness and understanding of the ocean, the aquarium is involved in the United Nations outreach program for ocean literacy. The grand tall ship of Bergen, the three-masted sailing barque called the Statsraad Lehmkuhl, just completed a nearly two-year voyage to conduct scientific research, collect ocean data, sample microplastics, and to educate people about the ocean in its visits to port cities.

Both the Seattle Aquarium and the Norwegian National Aquarium are looking forward to expanding to better educate visitors on how they can support efforts for living sustainably with the ocean on a global scale. Along with that, they try to instill the wonder and awe of ocean creatures, fostering an empathic connection to them, and, even though we fish, how to treat them with respect.

Both the Seattle and Bergen aquariums offer virtual tours of their facilities online. Search for “virtual tours” or a “field trip” on their websites.

To hear an extended interview with CEO Aslak Sverdrup and go on a short tour by zookeeper Joachim Ekeli, listen to the nordicontap.com podcast on The National Aquarium of Norway at nordicontap.com/the-nationalaquarium-of-norway. The Seattle Aquarium’s Ocean Pavilion plans are found at seattleaquarium.org/ocean-pavilion

The vision and plan for Bergen’s World Ocean Center is at o.center (type in

S4 • July 7, 2023 SUMMER RECREATION
this web address). Photo: Tuomo Lindfors / Creative Commons The “shark tunnel” where the visitor is surrounded by corals, fish, and sharks at the Bergen Aquarium. Photo: Joe Mabel / Wikimedia Commons The Underwater Dome at the Seattle Aquarium surrounds the visitor with many different kinds of swimming fish. Photo: Bergen Aquarium A gentoo penguin in the Bergen outdoor exhibit. Eric Stavney is a graduate of the University of Washington Department of Scandinavian Studies in Seattle and hosts the interviews and music podcast “Nordic on Tap” at nordicontap.com. Photo: Eric Stavney Zookeeper Joachim Ekeli and author Eric Stavney.

When the Norwegian weather changes your summer hiking plans

Not the Trolltunga—but spectacular nonetheless

In 2013, I was supposed to hike the famous Trolltunga mountain peak in Skjeggedal. It is one of Norway’s most incredible natural wonders, with breathtaking views of the Ringedalsvatnet Lake nestled near a small offshoot of the Hardanger fjord.

It is named after how the jutting rock looks like a mountain troll’s tongue sticking out! The landscape is south of Jotunheimen, the land of the giants according to folklore, or giant trolls (jotner).

I spent weeks convincing myself that I was capable of the almost 17-mile trek to a point over 2,000 feet above the lake. I wasn’t going to ruin the party of the group of four of us planning the trip. But the main feeling I had was fear of not being able to accomplish this “expert” level hike.

A classmate of mine had done the hike and expressed a kind of disbelief that she had managed to accomplish it. It was much longer than she originally thought and she told me she had to climb a lot of rocks and at one point thought she lost the trail. Luckily, she was not hiking alone and managed to get to the top during her late summer trip.

Our trip pushed on in late September, and we traveled first to Bergen on an overnight train. We stayed one night and explored the city. My friend who was on the trip with me said, “I remember taking so many different forms of transportation. Train, bus, ferry, and by foot.” The travel was exhausting and soon we were on a bus to Odda, where the four of us stayed in a small two-person camping cabin. We arrived late and shuffled all of our things into the room.

I led the charge of speaking to the manager of the campground about taking the bus to P2 Skjeggedal, the official starting point of the hike. Being the only member of the group who spoke Norwegian, I was the obvious choice.

The manager informed us that because of severe weather, the bus had stopped running altogether. This could have been related to it being the very tail end of the safe hiking season for Trolltunga, which is typically June through September. In the off season (October through May), it is highly recommended that you hike only with a trained guide.

In the face of our disappointment after taking a train, a bus, and a ferry to get to Odda, she suggested we do a local hike to the Buerbreen Glacier, through Buerdalen (the Buer valley). To my relief, this hike was two to four hours, compared with the minimum seven- to 10-hour commitment of Trolltunga. And the starting point was not far from where we were staying.

There were mixed emotions about this

change of plans, but we couldn’t change the weather or get to the trailhead on our own.

As one of my traveling companions puts it, remembering the trip, “I had this slight relief when the trail was closed but was really bummed to have the build up end so abruptly.” So our new plan to hike the Buer trail was on.

The hike proved to be challenging enough. Beginning in Buer on a small gravel inlet road, we walked in and surveyed the out and back path. Going in is almost entirely uphill, which gives a beautiful view of the valley below. Along the way, there is a runoff stream, and travelers have made a habit of creating sculptural rock piles in the creek bed.

The origin of these is to mark the path, but in this case they’ve spread all along the water’s edge. It’s a nice display that reminds you of how many have been here. There’s

also wildlife to cross, a protective highland cow (on the other side of a fence), and free roaming sheep along the trail.

Certain sections are rocky and even have secured ropes to climb up to get over large boulders and clusters. This could be described as bouldering for a short while! Some areas have narrow wooden bridges crossing over rocky patches.

There are other natural elements to look out for as well, stinging nettle, and of course ice. It’s important not to try and get too close to the glacier itself, because of this reason, and wear appropriate hiking shoes and clothing layers.

We didn’t come across any other hikers and the temperature was pleasantly cool in the fall season. As we ascended higher, the views became more picturesque and gave us such an authentic Norwegian experience.

The four of us in our group from our study-abroad program were simply glad to be spending the time together and seeing a new place. We moved past the disappointment and into a new appreciation for the trip that we ended up having.

The Buer trail was lush, with some foliage turning slightly into fall colors. We hiked all day and were immersed in a place we would have never visited otherwise. It was a slice of life in small town Norway, where the nature is unparalleled.

Maybe someday I’ll return to do the Trolltunga trek when I’m more prepared, when I have time to mentally process the trip and plan ahead in case of inclement weather. It’s an amazing spot that I’d love to visit, but I am satisfied with where we ended up. My friend on the trip said, “I also remember just being so happy. It was so beautiful.”

July 7, 2023 • S5 SUMMER RECREATION
Left: Along the Buer trail, there is a runoff stream, and travelers have made a habit of creating sculptural rock piles in the creek bed. Center: The hikers were able to view the route they would walk along at an informational kiosk for the trail, which included a map of the area. Right: The scenery along the Buer trail is not as dramatic as that at Trolltunga, but with lush greenery and rushing streams, it has a beauty of its own. All photos by Laila Simon Left: In the summer of 2013, Laila Simon and friends had to change routes on their summer hike, which in the end took them through the Buer Valley. Right: Along the lush, picturesque Buer trail, it is not unusual for hikers to encounter wildlife or flocks of roaming sheep.

A heritage trip to the “old country” gone modern Back to the future with author Eric Dregni

“The post only comes twice a week,” our host Per Schrøder added. “Once email came along, there was no need for paper mail. The problem is that a letter used to arrive in about two days. Now it takes more than a week!”

I told Per that hotels don’t have phones, so it’s impossible to call the front desk.

As soon as I got to Gardermoen, the Oslo airport, I exchanged $200 to Norwegian kroner. I had no idea that it would be almost impossible to spend. It’s not that Norway is inexpensive. Yes, the exchange rate is good, so traveling is only expensive and not outrageous. But hardly anywhere accepts cash or coins.

“They are actually required by the government to accept cash,” Knut Bull told me. Hosts at restaurants or cafés just skirt the system by telling me they have no change, and who wants to pay NOK 200 (about $20) for a $5 coffee?

Herman at Trondheim’s Litteraturhuset, “literature house,” said, “I haven’t used cash for at least 10 years.” I told him that I usually carry a credit card, cash, and a couple of checks.

“Checks? We haven’t seen those for at least 30 years.” I showed Herman my personal check, and he held it carefully as if it were a precious fossil or a fragile Viking sword. “How do they work?” he wondered.

I ask how he pays.

“I haven’t used a credit card for a couple of years; I just use my phone,” he says.

What if the battery dies? I asked.

“Then I use my watch.”

What if that dies?

“Then I walk!”

Each time I return to Norway, I jet ahead 10 years into the future. Scandinavia is famous for its free public colleges, pensions to retire comfortably, and universal health care for everyone (at half the cost per person of what we spend in the United States). But now Norway has leapfrogged us again with 80% of new car sales last year being electric cars. New sales of “fossil cars,” as Norwegian friends call gas-burners, will be banned by 2025. Electric vehicle charging stations are everywhere—I counted 42 at one service station in the small town of Dombås.

“I suppose they’ll still need some gas stations for a while, but I imagine they’ll go away soon since they’re all privately owned,” Joffe Urnes in Trondheim told me. A gallon of gas costs about $8—ironic considering Norway is one of the largest exporters of oil in the world. (The $1.3 trillion oil fund belongs to the government and the people of Norway as opposed to the United States that allows four companies to keep the profits.)

By 2026, all ships visiting the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Geirangerfjord and Nærøyfjord must be electric since these areas will be “zero emission zones.” Will that actually happen?

“It has to!” Magne Hatlevik from Sunnmøre told me. “Maybe the ships will be hybrid and just electric when they enter the fjords.”

The Hurtigruten coastal ships have invested $100 million to use hybrid power and become fully electric by 2030. Not only will ships be electric, but Forbes predicts electric planes will be flying over Norway in four to six years.

Where does Norway get all this electricity? Nearly 100% is renewable—more than 90% of that is hydropower. I looked around, though, and didn’t see any power lines.

“We’ve buried all the lines,” Tom Kvalø from Trondheim tells me over a Syttende Mai feast. “Now along the new highways, they’re putting 16 push tubes that are 47 inches wide in case we need them in the future.”

My hosts told me that these new lines of communication made traditional mail obsolete.

“There are no more landlines,” he told me. “We took out all the telephone poles, so it’s impossible to have one.” The classic red Norwegian phone booths have been converted to Little Free Libraries.

Books are one old-fashioned technology that hasn’t been discarded in Norway. The stacked-book look of the new Oslo Public Library competes with its neighbor, the Snøhetta-designed, glacier-inspired Oslo Opera House.

Inger Brøgger, an Oslo librarian, told me that at its inauguration, “hundreds of children from all over Oslo filled their wagons with books and had a big parade to the new library. This way, it was their library and it’s always full of people and books.” I noticed the library doubles as a craft workshop with sewing machines, 3-D printers, and hand tools to make homemade books.

Public money flows into the arts. “Culture houses” and “literature houses” dot the country. I told my friend Joffe in Trondheim that I worry that any new art has to be government approved. He works as a culture administrator in Trondheim and replied they have discussions all the time if they’re stifling out-of-the-box creativity if music, books, and art have to be “officially sanctioned.” Judging by the wild public art, this does not seem to be the case.

At the Litteraturhuset in Bergen, I asked a group why Norway seems to be so prosperous. “It’s because we’re all equal!” a middleaged woman pronounced. I pointed out that I’d seen very luxurious houses and spoken with students in tiny apartments who fear they’ll never be able to afford a home of their own. Friends in Trondheim saw their apartment quintuple in value from NOK 1 million to NOK 5 million in just 10 years. Joffe worried about this “money-poisoning” and that Norway has lost its social-democratic ideals with the rich getting far richer, just like in the United States.

Knut warned that conformity is one of the big dangers of Norwegian society. I recalled when we were warned about the “rule” to not hang our laundry outside to dry on Sundays. Houses in Norway can only be painted certain colors, typically rich yellow, red, or white; however, a housing cooperative in Trondheim recently voted that all its houses had to be painted dark gray, despite some residents’ protests that it’s already gloomy enough during the winter mørketid, or dark time, so why make it worse?

Strict local municipality rules now prohibit fishermen from selling right off their boats at the famous Bergen waterfront since it competes with the fancy new fish stands and restaurants.

“It’s a fish market where you can’t sell fish!” the Bergen guide Renato told me. He then whispered conspiratorially: “To get by the system, a website lists where you can find out when the boats are coming in on the pier farther out.”

In the town of Otta, I got in trouble in our hotel lobby for wanting American friends to try out the spicy ingefærøl, ginger ale, from Trondheim.

“You can’t drink it here!” the hotel receptionist warned me severely.

“Why?” I responded confused. “We can’t drink pop here?”

“It’s against the law.”

“The law? Really?”

“Yes, it is prohibited from bringing out-

SUMMER RECREATION S6 • July 7, 2023
eric dregNi Minneapolis RETURNING TO ROOTS: This spring, Eric Dregni took at trip that would take him back to his ancestral home in Drægni south of Bergen in western Norway and around the county. While he was in some ways going back to the past, he also traveled to the future in a Norway that is a very modern country. ELECTRIFIED: In Norway, 80% of all new car sales are for electric cars, and by 2025, the sale of cars that burn gasoline will be banned. Electric vehicle charging stations are found everywhere you go. TAKE A BOOK–GIVE A BOOK: While landlines are now obsolete and a phone booth is an anachronism in Norway, books are still in style. The old classic red telephone booths now serve as free libraries. FULL SPEED AHEAD: Getting around Norway has become easier with an advanced tunnel system. The government is talking about making a “floating tunnel” in the Sognefjord,

side beverages into the hotel, but you can bring it into your room.” To avoid having 18 people stuff into my little hotel room just to take a sip of ginger ale, I suggested we sit at a table outside.

“Yes! That would be good to go out of the hotel,” the clerk said, pleased that we’d obey the rules, and he could prevent having the police storm the hotel to arrest his guests for forbidden soft drinks.

One person in our group wanted to smoke a cigar with his Ringnes beer, but that smoking area was across the street. He couldn’t bring his beer with him. His wife had to stay back next to the hotel but was warned she couldn’t set foot past the sidewalk with her beer. She waved to her husband across the street.

This penchant for following rules makes for safer roads. The blood alcohol limit for drivers is .02%, which is four to five times lower than most of the United States. The fine for talking on a cell phone while driving is $900, as opposed to $50 in my home state of Minnesota. Cameras check speeders along the road and will mail a ticket with a photo of the driver.

In Trondheim, several of the main thoroughfares now go through tunnels to make the city more pedestrian friendly and livable. Why not do this through downtowns across the United States? No more noise, plowing, or a gash through the center of our cities. The cost, of course, is enormous. Magne told me that in Norway “new tunnels and bridges are paid for by tolls and once they’re paid off, the toll goes away, unlike in the United States. when they collect tolls essentially forever.”

This way, Norway has dug hundreds of tunnels and bridges. Magne used to take eight ferries to go from his house near Ålesund to Bergen, but now there’s only one over the Sognefjord since the fjord is as deep as the mountains are high.

“The government is talking about making a ‘floating tunnel’ in the Sognefjord, essentially a big tube under the water that has to be deep enough so boats don’t hit it. But what happens if a Russian submarine sneaks into the Sognefjord and rams it?”

With the cost of driving in Norway, it’s little wonder that all my friends only have one car in their family. My cousin Ole Magnus said, “There’s no reason to have a car unless you have kids or live in northern Norway.” Knut and Inger own a car in Oslo but only use it perhaps once a week or to drive to Telemark. Public transport is extensive and riders just use a credit card or phone to pay—no cash, of course, and no paper tickets. Trondheim even has the world’s first driverless passenger ferry to cross over the river. Just push a button and the auto-ferry will bring you across.

Mostly, though, people walk. “We have no school buses, so kids must walk or take the regular bus to school,” our guide in Oslo, Marianne, told me.

Magne added, “My dad was a bus driver, but I still had to walk two miles to school —uphill both ways!”

Walking may seem like an outdated technology, but hiking and getting fresh air are national pastimes in Norway. I asked my hosts if this space-age country will soon eat food as little pills.

“No, that’s one place that we’re back to basics.” They passed the smoked salmon, fresh shrimp, and cucumber salad.

Eric Dregni is the author of In Cod We Trust, Vikings in the Attic For the Love of Cod, Never Trust a Thin Cook, and Impossible Road Trip. He is an associate professor of English and journalism at Concordia University in St. Paul, Minn., where he teaches writing.

Travel tips from the royal couple King Harald and Queen Sonja’s summer vacation

Have you visited one of Norway’s many geoparks? Queen Sonja recommends that you make the trip. The royal couple are vacationing in Norway this summer, via boat.

“We are vacationing in Norway,” King Harald revealed when he and the queen met the press in Bindal municipality in Nordland on June 7.

The king said that part of the holiday will be by boat—on board the royal ship Norge

After completing their trip to Nordland, the royal couple will have made an official visit to 338 of the country’s 356 municipalities—and only 18 are “missing.”

So, they have a good sense of Norwegian destinations, and NTB took the opportunity to ask for tips for Norwegian vacations. With the extremely weak krone at the moment, it may be a good idea for Norwegians to spend the summer close to home.

“The coastline is full of destinations,” the king pointed out.

Geopark opportunities

The queen had more specific advice:

“I just found a book about geoparks,” she told NTB.

She listed municipalities that are part of the Trollfjell geopark in Nordland: Brønnøy, Vega, Vevelstad, Sømna, Leka, and Bindal.

The geopark is recognized as a global UNESCO geopark. It consists of an archipelago with thousands of flat islets and islands, the well-known landmark Torghatten—the mountain with a hole through it—in addition to the red island of Leka, which has been named Norway’s Geological National Monument.

“Several municipalities have joined forces. Walking paths have been drawn up at each

location, with the geology as a companion,” said the queen.

“I wish I had experienced it 30 years ago. I would have experienced a lot of rock and geology,” she said, and added that there probably won’t be much mountain hiking on this year’s vacation.

Several locations

According to the Geological Survey of Norway (NGU), Norway has four UNESCO geoparks.

To receive such recognition, the park must have geological heritage of international importance and convey the connection between geology and cultural and natural heritage.

Norway’s geoparks are spread across the country. Here are the other three:

Gea Norvegica in Vestfold and Telemark: Scandinavia’s first geopark includes the municipalities of Bamble, Kragerø, Larvik, Nome, Porsgrunn, Siljan, and Skien. NGU writes that the area offers the unique larvicite, as well as the Oslo field with great mineral wealth and the “world-famous” Fen volcano.

Magma geopark in Rogaland and VestAgder:

This geopark extends over the municipalities of Bjerkreim, Lund, Eigersund, Sokndal, and Flekkefjord. The area is characterized by bare and rounded knolls consisting of the rare rock type anorthosite, according to NGU.

Geopark Sunnhordland in Vestland:

The park has its headquarters in Bømlo municipality in Vestland, and received UNESCO status on May 17 this year. It contains several quarries from the Stone Age, where greenstone axes were produced. Production started 10,000 years ago, and the quarries were more or less in continuous operation for 5,700 years, according to NGU.

Boat vacation

The royal couple has made it a tradition to vacation by boat on board the royal ship Norge

“We are very lucky to have that opportunity. That is for sure,” said the queen.

The king also praises life on the boat:

“It is completely incredible. It is from the coast that you can see most of Norway. It is a completely different experience from traveling around by car.”

In early June, the royal couple used the royal ship on an official visit to Nordland.

In four days, they visited six municipalities. They gave speeches, greeted the local population and stayed busy. And this happened only three weeks after the king, 86, was admitted to the hospital with an infection.

“I will go so far as to say that without the royal ship, a visit like this would not have been possible. It would have been too tiring to stay in a new bed every night, pack and unpack, and arrive in a new place. When we board the royal ship, we are suddenly at home. It is something else entirely. We can sleep our way from place to place,” he said.

“Lucky to have beautiful nature”

The two have only good things to say about what Norway has to offer as a travel destination.

“It’s just a matter of picking and choosing,” said the king.

“We are lucky to have beautiful nature everywhere,” emphasized the queen.

Later in June, the royal couple traveled abroad—on an official visit to Denmark, with stops in Copenhagen and Aarhus. They traveled there with the royal ship Norge

July 7, 2023 • S7
All photos by Eric Dregni
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Photo: Annika Byrde / NTB King Harald and Queen Sonja visited Bindal municipality in Nordland in June, where they met the press and gave recommendations for vacationing in Norway.

A jewel from the past nestled among the Sunnmøre Alps

The Union Øye Hotel—full of charm, full of history

ragNhiLd hJeLTNeS

Assistant Editor

The Norwegian American

This June, I had the great fortune of being invited to a family wedding in Sunnmøre, a part of Møre and Romsdal known for its breathtaking mountains, majestic fjords, and several tourist sights, including the Geiranger fjord, the city of Ålesund— famous for its Art Nouveau architecture— and the Trollstigen road. The region boasts some of Norway’s most majestic mountains, the Sunnmøre Alps, a fitting name given their edgy silhouettes and dramatically steep mountainsides.

Interesting fact for any film buffs out there: the region has received international attention recently with the filming of several popular movies and shows, including Mission: Impossible 7 and the HBO series

Succession

The wedding was to take place at the small village of Sæbø on Hjørundfjorden, in the heart of the Sunnmøre Alps. Jumping on the opportunity to see as much of Norway as time allowed on this trip, my family of four opted for a road trip with my parents across the mountains from Telemark, where we had stayed for a few days to recover from our jet lag.

It was near the end of this drive, after having spent a night in the beautiful mountain village of Lom, crossed the still snowcovered Valdresflya mountain range, and enjoyed a scenic ferry ride on the Geiranger fjord, that we happened to stop by the Union Øye Hotel in Norangsfjorden for a short rest and a cup of coffee. My uncle and aunt, who were driving up from Kristiansand and whom we caught up with on the Geiranger ferry, had stayed there on an earlier trip and insisted it was worth the stop.

It was, indeed. The Union Øye Hotel is “a hotelier jewel from the olden times,” as stated on the website. Established in 1891, the dark wooden walls and turn-of-thecentury furniture puts you right back to the time of Sherlock Holmes. And—surprise— Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, the British author who invented the fictional detective, is one of a long list of prominent people who have taken a rest at the Union Øye Hotel.

In fact, each of the 38 guest rooms is named after one of its former occupants, with the name engraved on the door. Walking along the hallways of the second and third floors, I was immediately impressed. Here is Queen Maud’s room, over there, Henrik Ibsen’s. There are names of writers, mountaineers, artists, archbishops, royals. King Oscar of Sweden, Edvard Grieg, Knut Hamsun, Roald Amundsen—the list goes on.

Union Øye Hotel is a member of De Historiske—Norway’s Historic Hotels & Restaurants—a unique membership organization that includes many of Norway’s most charming hotels and restaurants. It is not difficult to understand why Union Øye made the list. The hotel has kept much of its 19th century style and is still reminiscent of its years as a mountain escape for European aristocrats and luminaries—such as English mountain climber and alpine explorer William Cecil Slingsby—eager to indulge in spectacular nature without giving up the comforts of their homes.

Walking these darks halls, one can almost sense the ghost of one of these 19th and 20th century legends vanishing around at the end of the corridor up ahead. And speaking of ghosts, like many old hotels, this one has one, too. The legend tells the story of Linda, a beautiful servant girl who threw herself in the fjord in the 1890s upon receiving the news of her lover’s death. Intrigued? Then consider requesting the Blue Room upon booking your stay. If you dare.

Of course, we had made reservations at the hotel where the wedding was to be

held, just across the fjord, and had to settle for a tour for now, albeit with a mental note to come back at our next visit to Sunnmøre (on my part, making sure to avoid the Blue Room). So, after walking the halls, peeking into each unoccupied room where the doors where generously propped open for the enjoyment of curious visitors like us (a rope strung across the doorway signaled that we could look but not enter), we retreated to a comfortable sofa in the Palm Room for a cup of coffee and a piece of apple cake.

The Palm Room is beautifully decorated by the hotel’s own artists Henrik Koppen and Axel Charles Dahlgren with floral prints and natural elements, including palm trees, and plenty of natural light. Guests can savor the view of the hotel garden with majestic Mount Slogen in the background while enjoying a coffee or a house-crafted cocktail. It is a peaceful, serene space and just what this tired group needed after a long drive. (Did I mention that the hotel servers are all dressed in traditional Norwegian clothes?)

The other common spaces in this historic hotel are just as artfully decorated and inviting for guests tired from a long day’s drive or hike. There is a library where you can sink into a deep leather chair in front of the fire, a game room with a pool table, and a wine-tasting room downstairs by the wine cellar. Meals are served in the beautiful and light-filled Conservatory, overlooking the gardens, where chef Knut Edvard Kjersem cooks up a gourmet meal that “celebrates the region’s great traditions and some of the best local produce in the world.”

After dinner, find a seat in the living room for storytelling, where you may hear the tale of Linda, or one of the hotel’s past guests. Or, perhaps, you will hear of the rock that bounced down the mountainside and burst through the roof of the hotel during a World War II airstrike (the rock is still there, by the way, on display in the third-floor hallway, where it landed all those years ago).

As I left the hotel that day, I tried to imagine all these guests of the past 132

years, seeking an escape in the spectacular nature of Sunnmøre, all adding a story to the story chest of Union Øye. I knew, as I left the hotel that day, that I will be back to hear more.

To book a stay, visit the hotel website at www.unionoye.no/en

All photos by Ragnhild Hjeltnes

Ragnhild Hjeltnes is assistant editor of The Norwegian American. Born and raised in Norway, she studied at Luther College in Iowa and the University of Minnesota. She has worked for several years with the consulate general in Minneapolis. In her free time, she enjoys baking Norwegian goods, knitting, and spending time outdoors.

SUMMER RECREATION S8 • July 7, 2023
After dinner at the Union Øye Hotel, you find a seat in the living room for storytelling, where you may hear the tale of Linda, or one of the hotel’s past guests, or the rock that bounced down the mountainside and burst through the roof of the hotel during a World War II airstrike. Left: Guests can order drinks and small bites in the Palm Room while enjoying views of the gardens and Mount Slogen. Right: Union Øye Hotel is situated at the end of Norangsfjorden in the heart of the Sunnmøre Alps and offers spectacular views of the mountains. Left: Union Øye Hotel was established in 1891 and offered a peaceful yet luxurious mountain escape to Europe’s aristocracy in the 19th and 20th centuries. Right: Each guest room is named after one of its past inhabitants and uniquely decorated. When not in use, the door is kept open to let visitors peek in.

Destination San Antonio

Norwegian America deep in the heart of Texas

A recent trip to San Antonio, Texas, for the annual International PowWow Travel Conference prompted a visit to the University of Texas at San Antonio’s Institute of Texan Cultures. Greeting me at the airport was Mark Varhaug, president of the Norwegian Society of Texas, and his wife, Elizabeth, both avid readers of The Norwegian American.

“We were delighted to drive from Dallas to meet you and share a bit of Norwegian Texan history with you,” Mark said.

The institute was originally built for HemisFair ’68, the official 1968 World’s Fair or international exposition. The theme of the fair was “The Confluence of Civilizations in the Americas,” celebrating the many nations that settled in the region. It was held to coincide with the 250th anniversary of the founding of San Antonio in 1718, with more than 30 nations and 15 corporations participating.

In 1986, many unused remaining structures built for the fair were removed, and about 15 acres of the site were redeveloped with waterfalls, fountains, playgrounds, and landscaping. Rededicated in 1988, the Tower of the Americas oversees the site, rechristened HemisFair Park. And the well-known popular attraction the River Walk is now connected by a small lagoon inside the park.

The State of Texas Pavilion, the fair’s largest pavilion, belonged to the state of Texas. It became the Institute of Texan Cultures, now a museum and the third campus of the University of Texas at San Antonio. After the World’s Fair, the museum was turned over to the university to continue to serve as a platform for diversity and multiculturalism. The University assumed administrative control in 1973 and designated the institute as a campus in 1986.

The mission of the Institute of Texan Cultures is a lesson in diversity, as it highlights the backgrounds of the many cultures that settled Texas. It shows the contributions those cultures made to the state’s character through stories, traditions, and artisan skills.

The museum pursues a mandate as the state’s center for multicultural education by presenting the ethnic and cultural histories of the state, not only with the exhibits. There are also special events, outreach programs for school groups, and teacher-training workshops. Because the museum is a component of the University of Texas at San Antonio, it plays a role in the university’s community engagement by offering accessible resources for educators and the public on topics of cultural heritage.

As the institute has celebrated its 50th anniversary, it looks forward to adapting the museum to serve newer generations of Texans and visitors to San Antonio. That includes redeveloping the exhibit installations by adding more modern exhibits and developing a digital presence. The future of the institute will be to continue its role as the premier museum for learning about the cultural history of San Antonio and Texas.

In 1996, a Smithsonian affiliation was established to facilitate the relationship among small museums and the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C., to increase discovery and learning throughout America. This relationship, strengthened in 2010, will facilitate the loan of Smithsonian artifacts and traveling exhibitions, as well as performing arts programs and speakers, teacher workshops, and resources to complement the exhibitions.

Another landmark worthy of note in Texas is the CP Farm located in the Norse area of Bosque County near the town of Clifton. This was the home of Cleng Peerson, in his later years, the father of Norwegian emigration to North America.

The state of Texas originally deeded this property to Cleng Peerson in 1856. However, according to his own words, Peerson had lived on the property since 1854. Later, in 1859, he gave half the property to Ovee Colwick (Ove Kjølvig from Jelsa near Stavanger, Norway) on the condition that the Colwick family would give him a place to live out the last of his days. The property remained in the Colwick family for nearly a century, with several other owners following. The name “CP Farm” has a double meaning, “CP” for both “Cleng Peerson” and “Colwick-Peerson.”

Today the farm is owned by a Norwegian family from Tysvær, Norway. The current owners, Thomas Mannes and Eldbjørg Djønne-Stuve and their three children, live in Norway only a few miles from the place of Peerson’s birth and have followed Peerson’s footsteps to Texas.

In 2012, the Mannes family visited Clifton for the first time and saw the property where Peerson had lived. When they first saw the land, Peerson’s old cabin was still standing and remnants of an earlier, larger home could be seen next to it. Later that year, after the family returned home to Norway, a delegation from Clifton visited Norway and a discussion took place about a possible collaboration between Clifton and Tysvær. During that conversation, it was mentioned that the land where Peerson’s cabin still stands was for sale. Following this meeting, the Mannes family was able to purchase the farm. The property is now registered in the National Registry of Historical Places and is open to the public.

Berit Mason, a Norwegian-speaking daughter of a Norwegian woman from Greåker and a San Antonio native, recently completed a Sons of Norway grant project, “Sons and Daughters of Vikings, Deep in the Heart of Texas.” It is a two-part podcast on the Facebook page ClengPeersonFarm.

The Institute of Texan Cultures is located at 801 E. César E. Chávez Blvd., San Antonio, TX 78205, open Thursday-Sunday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., admission by donation. See: texancultures.utsa.edu

Cynthia Elyce Rubin, PhD., is a visual culture specialist, travel writer, and author of articles and books on decorative arts, folk art, and postcard history. She collects postcards, ephemera, and early photography. Visit: cynthiaelycerubin.com.

For the love of Grieg

Private house concerts, gala events, film screenings, lectures, and much more!

www.nwegriegsociety.org

July 7, 2023 • S9 SUMMER RECREATION
cyNThia eLyce ruBiN Travel Editor The Norwegian American Minneapolis Left: On display at the Institute of Texan Cultures in San Antonio, Texas, is a small Norwegian trunk dated 1845 that holds a family quilt. Right: Travel Editor Cynthia Elyce Rubin is small compared with the World’s Largest Cowboy Boots at North Star Mall in San Antonio. Everything is BIG in Texas! Left: The history of Norwegian Texas is on display at the Institute of Texan Cultures through a series of photographs, captions, and quotations. Right: A booklet about Norwegian immigrants published by the institute in 1971 is one of a series about different ethnic groups that settled Texas. All photos by Cynthia Elyce Rubin

A Sommer Musikk Fest featuring a Eurovision superstar

Alexander Rybak makes magic at Norway House

The Norwegian American / Norway House

What do you do when an act of a family of 17 Norwegian musicians has to cancel a long-anticipated set of performances for a major summer music festival? For Norway House and the Edvard Grieg Society of Minnesota (EGSM), that became the big question when the Habbestad Ensemble encountered visa and travel issues for the 2023 Sommer Musikk Fest, set to kick off on July 26.

It was disappointing news to all involved, but the event stakeholders were bound to bounce back with bravado. After some internal brainstorming and serious networking, a new act presented itself: none less than one of Eurovision’s greatest winners of all time, Alexander Rybak.

Rybak has come a long way from his record-breaking win in the 2009 Eurovision Song Contest, the world’s most-watched musical event. The Norwegian singer-songwriter and violin virtuoso took the world by storm with his song “Fairytale,” sung with his charming smile, athletic folk dancers, and a very catchy fiddle riff.

Today, Rybak is returning to his classical roots. Since completing his master’s degree in film composition at Columbia College in Chicago, the Eurovision star has taken a liking to the United States and has established himself in Los Angeles, where he is currently building a career in film composition in Hollywood.

Sommer Musikk Fest

For his performances at the Sommer Musikk Fest at Norway House, Rybak will appear with pianist Stefan Ibsen Zlatanos and mezzo-soprano Ebba Lejonclou in the Alexander Rybak Trio.

This trio is an expression of Rybak’s roots. Zlatanos is one of the most acclaimed

virtuoso pianists in Scandinavia and Rybak’s childhood friend from Norway. Lejonclou joins them from Sweden, where she is engaged at the prestigious Royal Swedish Opera in Stockholm.

The three musicians will offer up a delicious musical buffet of well-known arias, popular showstoppers, and a couple of jazz favorites tossed with original compositions of both classical and popular nature.

The concert program includes a fresh take on Georges Bizet’s “Carmen,” uniquely arranged for violin, piano, and vocal. Zlatanos will seduce the audience with his beautiful renditions of Edvard Grieg, Lejonclou will enchant the listeners with her prize-winning voice while singing classical lieder, and Rybak will perform in brilliant fashion Antonio Bazzini’s “Dance of the Goblins.” The evening will be woven together with a healthy

dose of humor, and the audience can expect surprises and expect to be inspired.

Speaking of surprises, attendees at the Norway House annual Midsummer Gala on June 13 got a big one when Rybak suddenly appeared on stage, violin in hand. He brought down the house with his unexpected performance. EGSM President Margy Sather Peterson said, “It was really fun to hear; Alexander was a highlight of the evening. He did a stunning job performing, thrilling the audience with the musical imagery of Norwegian folk composer Sven Nyhus. Through his articulation and expression, he entranced the audience, evoking the scenery of a Norwegian mountainside. I can’t wait for him to come back with his trio in July for our Sommer Musikk Fest.”

So, mark your calendars: the Alexander Rybak Trio will perform at Norway House’s Sundet Aula at 913 East Franklin Avenue in Minneapolis on July 28 at 7 p.m. The entire Sommer Musikk Fest runs from July 26 to Aug. 5, and festival passes are available. Tickets can by purchased at norwayhouse. org/egsmn/sommer-fest-2023.

“It’s not every day that you get to hear three world-class musicians, including a Norwegian pop icon in an intimate venue like Norway House,” said Lori Ann Reinhall, editor-in-chief of The Norwegian American She interviewed Rybak last summer (see “It’s the one and only Alexander Rybak!” The Norwegian American, June 24, 2022), when she also heard him play at Chicago’s Minnekirken. Reinhall is planning to travel from Seattle to Minneapolis for the Sommer Musikk Fest performance and encourages others from out of town to join her there.

A variety of accommodations are available in the area, including a budget option to stay at the Danish American Center. Call (612) 729-3800 or visit their website at: danishamericancenter.org/room-rentals.

S10 • July 7, 2023 SUMMER RECREATION
STaFF compiLaTioN Photo courtesy of Norway House On June 13, Alexander Rybak brought down the house at his surprise appearance at the Norway House Midtsommer Gala. The virtuoso violinist will be back with the Alexander Rybak Trio on July 28 for the Edvard Grieg Society of Minnesota’s Sommer Musikk Fest.

Two ways to tell a story New classes at Norway House

Sommerferie — Summer vacation

“Storytelling is so important to us as people and as a community, and there are so many ways to do it,” says Brenda Hudson. Brenda, a writing and journaling teacher, is part of Norway House’s new lineup of classes. Her focus is helping people get their lives on paper in a way that is manageable and enjoyable. Brenda will be teaching single session classes and in 2024, four-week classes for people who want to write a memoir or longer work.

“These workshops help families capture their stories across generations and encourage individuals to articulate, in their own words, who they are and who they want to be,” says Brenda.

Another teacher, visual artist Carrie Finnigan, also uses story in her classes. In this case, Carrie is the storyteller, relating mythic cycles while guiding students through drawing exercises emphasizing line and composition. She helps students express what they have to say through images. She says, “Humans have always had an inherent need to give meaning to our existence, to place our mark, calling out ‘I was here.’”

A class for those people who like food

Brenda will be teaching Savoring Memories, an in-person writing workshop, on Aug. 12.

“Food is such a delicious way ‘in’ to our stories,” she says. “Ingredients, dishes, and meals can instantly transport us back to specific moments in time, often shared moments.”

Brenda uses the New Nordic Cuisine gallery exhibit at Norway House and guided activities as the springboard for writers’ recollections.

The class is ideal for participants who want to capture stories for a memoir or for food bloggers wanting to hone their writing skills.

“No prior writing experience is necessary, just a willingness to explore the rich and complex world of food memories,” says Brenda.

Making the mythic personal

Starting in October, Carrie will be teaching Introduction to Drawing Mythology: Nordic, Celtic, and Inuit Water Beings. She tells the story of selkies, the shape-changing seal women whose stories originated in Orkney, Scotland. The stories spread to coastal areas of Scandinavia, Scotland, and Ireland. Carrie then tells the story of Sednu, the seal woman who becomes the guardian of marine mammals in the Inuit culture. Both story cycles are tragic, compelling, and vivid.

Participants hear the stories and view other artists’ interpretations of the myths to learn

the fundamentals of art and design. Each class ends with replicating a piece of art so students can build their skill set, train their eyes to truly see, and develop their own creative processes.

Making the daunting doable

Both Carrie and Brenda understand that people often want to write a memoir or learn to draw but see the process as overwhelming or that they don’t “have the talent.” They gently break the process into incremental, easyto-accomplish steps.

“I strongly believe that anyone can learn to draw exactly what is seen. It takes practice, commitment, joy, and most of all, permission to make mistakes,” says Carrie. She strongly encourages students to bring an eraser or two to class.

Brenda is committed to helping others gain confidence in their writing and to complete their goals. Realizing that writing a memoir can be daunting, she created a system, breaking down tasks to manageable size. The less painful the writing process, the more enjoyable the end product is to read. Brenda’s classes and writing exercises help writers create a product that doesn’t just collect dust but, instead, is shared enthusiastically in a family.

She has repeatedly won the Loft Literary Center’s award for excellence in teaching and partners with Family Voices of Minnesota, working with children with rare and chronic health conditions and their families.

More to come

During Norway House’s Gingerbread Wonderland exhibit in the fall, there will be two opportunities to take a class in gathering family stories. Brenda will present Besteforeldre & Barnebarn Heart to Heart: Capturing Your Cross-Generational Stories. In this class, grandparents and grandchildren listen to each other and share stories through writing and, if desired, drawing.

March 2024 will be a month of classes exploring the parallels and cross influences in Celtic and Nordic culture. Carrie Finnigan will bring the dark world of trolls and leprechauns to light in a three-part, in-person class that explores the original and not-so-cute magical beings of our cultural imaginations.

If you are interested in these and other classes, please visit norwayhouse.org

Carstens Smith is the class and education coordinator at Norway House in Minneapolis. She also works a freelance writer, instructional designer, and ESL instructor, and she has published numerous nonfiction magazine and web articles.

You can email Carstens at classes@norwayhouse.org

Sommeren er en magisk tid i Norge (Summer is a magical time in Norway). Det er en tid for å komme seg bort (It’s a time for getting away) med familie og venner (with family and friends). Mange nordmenn gleder seg til (Many Norwegians look forward to) å nyte det varme sommerværet (enjoying the warm summer weather) og de lange, lyse sommernettene (and the long, bright summer nights).

De fleste norske barn (Most Norwegian children) har sommerferie (are on summer break) fra midten av juni til rundt midten av august (from mid-June until around mid-August). Arbeidstakere har rett til (Employees are entitled to) tre ukers sommerferie (three weeks of summer vacation) og mange bedrifter (and many companies) er stengt i juli i denne «fellesferien» (are closed in July during this “common holiday”).

Fellesferien er den perioden på sommeren (The “common holiday” is that period in summer), vanligvis de tre siste ukene i juli (usually the last three weeks of July), når mange bedrifter (when many companies) tar sommerferie samtidig (take summer holidays at the same time). Fellesferien i 2023 (The common holiday in 2023) er i uke 28, 29 og 30 (is in weeks 28, 29 and 30), fra mandag 10. juli til og med fredag 28. juli (from Monday, July 10, through Friday, July 28).

Sommeren er en tid (Summer is a time) for utendørs musikkfestivaler (for outdoor music festivals), søte jordbær (sweet strawberries) og «utepils»—å kose seg med øl ute i solskinnet (to enjoy a beer outside in the sunshine).

Mange norske familier (Many Norwegian families) eier sommerhus eller hytter (own summer homes or cabins) ved kysten eller i andre regioner (along the coast or in other regions). Øyhopping er populært (Island hopping is popular) og det er mange strender og badeplasser (and there are many beaches and swimming spots) langs Norges vakre kyst (along Norway’s beautiful coast). Her kan man slappe av, sole seg, svømme, fiske og grille (Here you can relax, tan, swim, fish, and barbecue).

For de som bor i byen (For those who live in the city), kan sommerdagene tilbringes i parkene (summer days may be spent in the parks). Her kan man gå barbeint i gresset (Here you can go barefoot in the grass), spille Frisbee og fotball (play Frisbee and soccer), grille og spise is (barbecue and eat ice cream).

Norge er også kjent som «Midnattssolens land» (Norway is also known as the “Land of the Midnight Sun”). Midnattssolen er et naturlig fenomen (The midnight sun is a natural phenomenon) der solen ikke går helt under horisonten (where the sun does not go completely below the horizon). Man kan oppleve midnattssolen i Nord-Norge (You can experience the midnight sun in northern Norway), nord for polarsirkelen (north of the Arctic Circle).

July 7, 2023 • S11
« Sun outside, sun inside, sun in your heart, sun in your mind. »
Photo: Christie Ericson Summer is a magical time in Norway, when Norwegians look forward to spending time outdoors with family and friends. For many, boating is a popular activity. Christie Ericson is an academic librarian living in Anchorage, Alaska. She has a background in languages and linguistics and has been fulfilling her lifelong dream of learning the Norwegian language. She also serves as the cultural director and librarian at her local Sons of Norway lodge and is completely addicted to Selbu mitten knitting.
SUMMER RECREATION
– Herbert Herding-Herberth
Photos courtesy of Norway House Brenda Hudson (left) and Carrie Finnigan (right) are new instructors at Norway House in Minneapolis.

SUMMER RECREATION

A monthly feature to share with kids and grandkids

Anna and the Woven Hearts spreads summer love

It’s summer again and time for spending time with family and friends. It also gives us time to engage in new activities and projects. Summer is a great time for reading books that we normally might not have time for during the school year.

This summer, there is a new book that I am sure all NorwegianAmerican children and their families will want to explore, Anna and the Woven Hearts by Wendy Jensen. We all met Anna last year in the book Anna and the Scandinavian Hearts, the first book in the series, and the new book is the latest installment in her adventure.

As author Wendy explained, Anna and the Woven Hearts is all about connecting to family, heritage, and community. It is about generations coming together and sharing love among themselves and with everyone around them—for what could be a better expression of love than a heart?

In the book, Anna visits her grandma’s house, where she has often come to make cookies, a very popular activity for Scandinavian Americans. But on this visit, she will learn something new, as her grandma teaches her to make woven hearts. Not only are they fun to make, but they can be filled with candy and other treats and then be gifted to friends and family.

Wait a minute: I know you are telling yourself that making woven hearts is normally a Christmas activity in Norway. Yes, this is true, but there really are no restrictions on having fun.

Wendy explained that when remembering her childhood, she wished that the joy of her family’s Nordic Christmas celebrations could extend out through the entire year. She came up with the idea of working on these projects in the middle of the summer or during any season. So, Anna and her grandma go out to the garden and fill the hearts with flowers.

And from beginning to end, the book is a “true story,” a poetic depiction of Wendy’s memories

of her own childhood in Seattle. The pure simplicity and authenticity work like magic.

The book is also very beautiful to look at with its illustrations by Swedish artist Emelie Wiklund from Stockholm. Wendy and Emelie worked closely, sharing

not only ideas but actual photos from the time when Wendy was growing up. I immediately recognized Seattle’s Ballard neighborhood, and I could see some of Wendy’s family in the friendly faces drawn by Emelie. The book is filled with pretty pastels and lots of details—specifically

Swedish details—which all makes sense, since Anna’s grandmother is Swedish. But don’t despair: Anna’s grandpa is a Norwegian!

Naturally, there are illustrated instructions for making the hearts (we followed them with good results), and by scanning a QR code, you can gain access to a gift of various templates for making hearts.

While this project-oriented book is geared toward elementary schoolchildren, it can be enjoyed by everyone. It’s delightful bedtime reading and a wonderful picture book for beginning readers. This book is also perfect for anyone teaching art at a summer camp or even Sunday school classes. It’s motto is one of love: “Here’s to spreading joy everywhere you go.”

S12 • July 7, 2023 -
Barneblad
1601 EAST LAKE ST MINNEAPOLIS, MN P.612.729.9333 ingebretsens.com HOME | FOOD | CULTURE
Anna and the Woven Hearts by Wendy Jensen is available for purchase at amazon.com. Photo: Wendy Jensen Making woven hearts is a fun and creative activity for any age at any time of the year.

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