NorthPark Center 2016 Watch Week Timepiece Book by NorthPark Center

THE

TIMEPIECE

BOOK

WATCH WEEK NOVEMBER 16-20, 2016

THE SKY-DWELLER The revolutionary watch for world travelers, blending watchmaking ingenuity with simplicity of use. It doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just tell time. It tells history.

rolex

oyster perpetual and sky-dweller are

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trademarks.

OYSTER PERPETUAL SK Y-DWELLER IN 18 KT WHITE GOLD

C L OT HING BY C A NA LI

T I ME PI E CE B Y I W C S CH A FFH A U S E N AT E ISE MAN J E W E L S

K AW S , U N T I T L E D , 2015

THE POWER OF ART. THE BEAUTY OF FASHION. A SHOPPING EXPERIENCE LIKE NO OTHER.

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OVER 200 STORES AND BOUTIQUES

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A M C 15 T H E AT R E S

WORLD-CLASS ART COLLECTION

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CERTIFIED PRE-OWNED

S P E C I A L WAT C H W E E K I N -S T O R E E V E N T B R A N D M A N A G E R S I N AT T E N D A N C E W I T H N E W B A S E L A N D S I H H L I M I T E D E D I T I O N S A N D R E L E A S E S . O U R L A R G E S T P R E S E N TAT I O N A N D S E L E C T I O N O F WAT C H E S O F T H E Y E A R . T R ADE INS ENCOUR AGED

N OV E M B E R 19 T H, 10 - 6 P M W I T H E ACH SW ISS T IM EPI ECE P U RCH A SED D U RI N G T H E E V EN T RECEI V E: O N E -Y E A R E X T E N S I O N T O M A N U FA C T U R E R â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S WA R R A N T Y A C / B AT T E R Y L E AT H E R WAT C H W I N D E R G I F T C O M P L I M E N TA R Y E N G R AV I N G S P E C I A L 6 T O 12 M O N T H I N T E R E S T F R E E F I N A N C I N G AVA I L A B L E VA L E T PA R K I N G

LETTER

NORTHPARK CENTER will become the premier destination to experience the finest timepiece brands in the world at the third annual NorthPark Watch Week, held November 16 – 20, 2016. Avid watch collectors and connoisseurs are invited to experience NorthPark Center’s unique collection of timepiece retailers that celebrate the intricate artistry and craftsmanship of luxury watchmaking through special collections, one-of-a-kind pieces, and unique in-store experiences. When shopping for a fine timepiece, a comprehensive collection of stores offering an unparalleled selection is paramount. NorthPark Center features the largest and finest collection of fine jewelers and timepiece brands in the Southwest, such as BVLGARI, Cartier, David Yurman, Hublot, Montblanc, Officine Panerai, OMEGA, TAG Heuer, Tiffany & Co., and many more. Beyond global brands, NorthPark Center is proud to be the exclusive home to Eiseman Jewels, a NorthPark tradition for more than 50 years, and one of the finest independent jewelry stores in the United States. Eiseman Jewels offers an unrivaled customer experience and a curated selection of the most coveted timepiece brands, including Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, IWC, Jaeger LeCoultre, and Ulysse Nardin, among others. Eiseman also operates an adjacent Rolex boutique, offering traditional models and the most recent introductions of the iconic manufacturer. The iconic Neiman Marcus at NorthPark Center will showcase the stunning pieces from Van Cleef and Arpels in a special pop-up store created exclusively for NorthPark Watch Week, in addition to their extensive variety of world renowned names in horology. NorthPark Center is also home to the finest international fashion brands, offering exquisite clothing, handbags, shoes and accessories for men and women. Bottega Veneta, Burberry, Canali, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Mulberry, Roberto Cavalli, Salvatore Ferragamo, TOD’S, Tory Burch, Valentino and Versace are just a selection of the premier brands available at NorthPark Center. With the fast-approaching holiday season, a fine timepiece is the pinnacle of exceptional gift giving. The gift of a watch is highly intimate, as many become treasured heirlooms to be passed down from generation to generation. This Watch Week, we hope you will find the perfect gift that stands the test of time.

NANCY A. NASHER OWNER, NORTHPARK CENTER

THE TIMEPIECE BOOK

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Masthead

Contributors

14 16

18 19

Time Passages: The History of Horology From the simple sundial to the latest in cutting-edge time keeping, the story of how we mark our days is a compelling tale of mastering our lives and mastering time.

20 22

Since 1963 (and at NorthPark since 1965), Eiseman Jewels has fostered not only an unmatched commitment to valuing customer relationships, but also a passion for offering the finest, “thoroughbred” jewelry and watch brands. Find out more here.

In a world where generic online shopping is becoming more and more commonplace, when it comes to purchasing fine timepieces, there is simply no substitute for the authenticity, access to expertise and peace of mind of a traditional brick-and-mortar experience.

Brand Profiles Find out more about some of the world’s most exceptional watchmakers, from storied heritage to landmark models to modern marvels, each has its own story to tell.

Audemars Piguet Cartier IWC Jaeger-LeCoultre Panerai Rolex Ulysse Nardin Van Cleef & Arpels

Watch Enthusiasts Two attorneys, a private jet executive, a luxury homebuilder, a design retailer, a fashion blogger: What do these prominent Dallas business leaders all share? A deep and abiding passion for collecting fine timepieces.

40 42 44 45 46 47

Timing is Everything The facility and programs of The North American Institute of Swiss Watchmaking in Forth Worth provides an astounding, local resource for the Dallas area—and for its watch fans.

As the pinnacle of Cartier’s new Drive de Cartier line of watches, the new flying tourbillon execution not only captures the eye, but also serves as an apt case study for the use of some of watchmaking’s finest techniques and materials.

22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36

Business to Watch: Eiseman Jewels

Time is of the Essence

Anatomy of a Fine Timepiece

Jay English Tina Craig Brent Carreker Paul Pastore Michael Wilkov Steve Stodghill

Did You Know? A glossary of watch world terms covering materials, complications and movements, and common organizations and appellations.

Q&A: Neiman Marcus Native Texan, avid watch collector and Nieman Marcus Vice President Larry Pelzel shares his insider’s view on the passion of horology and the store’s special place in that world.

On the Cover: Oyster Perpetual Lady-Datejust, 28mm in stainless steel and 18kt. pink gold with diamond bezel, white mop diamond dial and Jubilee bracelet.

THE TIMEPIECE BOOK

THE

TIMEPIECE BOOK

EDITORIAL Group Executive Editor Mike Espindle

Contributing Writers

Jessica Elliott, Jason Heaton, Elise Nussbaum, Diana Oates and James Stacey

Designer

Chris Mulder

Copy Editor

Kersten Deck

SALES & MARKETING Group Publisher Blake Stephenson

Associate Publisher, National Christian Poppert

Director, Retail Lauren Cureton

Marketing Director Mary Gall

Marketing Manager Ryan McManemin

PRODUCTION Director of Production & Creative Services Erin Quinn Murray

Production Manager Tim Maxwell

Senior Special Projects Coordinator Lia Crawford

Account Coordinator Molly Tullis

CONTRIBUTORS

ELISE NUSSBAUM has been writing about luxury watches and high-end jewelry for over a decade for Tourbillon International (Watches International, Jewelry International) and has also contributed to Modern Luxury’s Manhattan Magazine. A native of New Jersey, she has also lived in Provence, Paris and Buenos Aires

JASON HEATON is a Minneapolis-based freelance writer who cut his teeth writing everything from poetry to short stories to technical manuals before finding his true calling in timepieces, travel and gear. Jason also contributes to the popular watch blog Hodinkee, Revolution magazine, Gear Patrol, Men’s Journal and many other publications. When he’s not at the keyboard, he is usually outside cycling, kayaking, skiing or scuba diving.

Professional enthusiast, photographer, adventurer, podcast host, and journalist JAMES STACEY possesses a passion for remote places, fast cars and fine timepieces. His work can be found in NUVO magazine, aBlogtoWatch.com and The Grey NATO Podcast. From Geneva to Pebble Beach or even a nearby mountain top, if it ticks, winds, roars or burns rubber, he’ll be there.

Graphic designer and illustrator, CHRIS MULDER has been involved in the publishing world for over 15 years. Though his work mainly focuses on magazine design, he is also passionate about working with independent authors to publish their works. In Grandma’s Garden, a brilliantly illustrated children’s book whose proceeds benefit those affected by breast cancer, is a prime example of why he enjoys bringing these projects to life.

DIANA OATES has been writing about luxury lifestyle, travel, and real estate since 2011. Her work can be found in Travel + Leisure, Food Network, Purewow, and more. Having ventured to Italy, England, France, and Canada in the last year, her 2017 goal is to explore the United States cities that she has yet to check off of her bucket list. Although she lives in Dallas, she often dreams of retiring to a cozy cottage on the coast of The Carolinas where she was born and raised.

Dallas-based freelance writer JESSICA ELLIOTT has covered design and fashion writing for more than a decade. A Texas native, she herself is a longtime timepiece enthusiast, with a collection that began at age five with a bubblegum pink Fossil watch. While she loves an iconic Cartier, her dream piece would be a Van Cleef & Arpels’ “Pierre Arpels” watch in pink gold.

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PRESENTED BY

N OV E M B E R 1 6 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 2 0, 2 0 1 6 PARTICIPATING RETAILERS

T H E T I M E H AS CO M E JOIN US FOR NORTHPARK WATCH WEEK From November 16â&#x20AC;&#x201C;20, enjoy an extraordinary array of in-store events, exhibits and presentations at our unparalleled collection of exceptional timepiece retailers, all showcasing the finest brands in the world. Explore limited edition collections, new timepiece previews, the opportunity to speak to artisans about the trade and trends, and much more.

THE FINE TIMEPIECE BRANDS OF NORTHPARK CENTER

VISIT NORTHPARKWATCHWEEK.COM FOR A DETAILED LISTING OF IN-STORE EVENTS AND ACTIVITIES

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HISTORY

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF WATCHES INTERNATIONAL

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TIME PASSAGES By Elise Nussbaum

hen every electronic device—and we are drowning in them today— bears the time almost as an afterthought, why do we still buy watches? And not only buy them, but collect them, treasure them, pass them down to our sons and daughters? Clearly, mechanical watches carry an emotional charge for us that goes far beyond mere function. Wearing a traditional watch in the twenty-first century connects us to the ingenuity and artistry of our ancestors, as well as an array of modern visionaries who are constantly expanding the limits of the field. The earliest time-telling instrument was the gnomon, a stick planted in the ground whose moving shadow helped keep track of the passing hours. Simple to create and intuitive to use, the gnomon appears in records of several ancient civilizations. The Egyptians developed the concept into the now-familiar sundial. An elegant solution for sunny days, the sundial had its limitations, including utter uselessness when the weather was less cooperative, or at night. Water clocks, oil clocks and hourglasses emerged as ingenious solutions often used in concert with sundials, though the accuracy was often approximate. Mechanical horology began in the late 13th century as a variation on the water clock, in which a solid object replaced the weight of the water. With the basic principles in place, Giovanni de’ Dondi constructed his incredibly ambitious Astrarium, an astronomical-clock-cum-planetarium, over a period

of 16 years, completing the project in 1381. Scientific breakthroughs by Galileo and other Renaissance thinkers revolutionized the making of pendulum clocks. The field of horology underwent stunning changes in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries: clocks shrank, eventually growing small enough to fit in one’s pocket; functions multiplied, incorporating sound, astronomical indications, automata and even, eventually, seconds displays. Cottage industries of goldsmiths, enamelers, engravers and gem-setters arose to meet the demand for highly decorative pieces. Three centuries later, many of these antique timepieces still run smoothly! As wristwatches supplanted pocket-watches in the early 20th century, convenience and ease grew in importance among watch consumers, but the pendulum, if you will, is swinging back. In an increasingly incorporeal world, we have grown hungry for tangible products, miniature masterworks that can accompany us through daily life. We are in the midst of a furor of watchmaking creativity unmatched since the Renaissance: new technologies have led to astounding accuracy and durability, while age-old decorative arts return in triumph. Novel complications expand our notion of what a timepiece can do. The mechanical watch’s persistent popularity in the face of ubiquitous electronics has merely underscored what we have known for a long time: a timepiece is not merely a functional object. It is a significant accessory, a display of creativity, a link to our shared past, and a work of art. THE TIMEPIECE BOOK

FAMILY BUSINESS PHOTOS: F8 STUDIO

BUSINESS TO WATCH: EISEMAN JEWELS By Diana Oates

company does not thrive in the Dallas retail industry for 53 years by happenstance. Usually, if you do a little digging, you will find that the seeds for success were planted long ago. This is the case with Eiseman Jewels, opened by Richard D. Eiseman Sr. in downtown Dallas’ Titche-Goettinger in 1963. The jeweler moved to NorthPark in 1965. Today, it proudly notes its status as one of the shopping center’s two original tenants that still do business (Neiman Marcus is the other). Handling that business is Richard Eiseman Jr., who has watered, grown and maintained the seeds planted by his father by respecting tradition and valuing customer relationships. “Every day is all about managing relationships between the customer, manufacturers, our staff and the community,” Eiseman says. “When all of those relationships are flourishing, it gives our trained professionals the best chance to serve each client that walks through our doors.” This commitment has made the Eiseman name synonymous with quality, luxury jewelry that is generational, never trendy. In the last 10 years, the company’s watch business has flourished to become the premier place to shop for luxury timepieces in the Southwest.

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Stocking mostly thoroughbreds, brands you can peruse in-store include Baume & Mercier, Louis Moinet, Ulysse Nardin, Cartier and Breitling. Eiseman Jewels is also home to the largest authorized Rolex shop in Dallas. Each client in search of something special to put on their wrist can be certain that their questions are being handled by trained staff equipped with the knowledge to answer all of your questions. “Our people are trained by factory representatives in Switzerland [rather than] salespeople or clerks,” Eiseman says. “We don’t have those here. These are professionals and this is not their job; this is their career.” Eiseman believes that a lot of information goes into purchasing a luxury timepiece, most of which the customer shouldn’t necessarily have to know. For that reason, the Eiseman team of professionals knows it for them. “Often when people buy a watch, they think the actual acquisition is the culmination of the experience, and that’s just not the case here,” Eiseman says. “When you buy a luxury piece of jewelry you deserve the world, and at Eiseman Jewels we aim to elevate the customer experience before, during and after the purchase.”

RETAIL VS ONLINE PHOTOS: ANDREAS REH, VLADIMIR GERASIMOV

TIME IS OF THE ESSENCE By Diana Oates

et us all take note of Greek philosopher Theophrastus’ words when he said that time is the most valuable thing a man can spend. If that’s the case— and surely few can argue to the contrary—then wouldn’t selecting a luxury timepiece be just as important? In a world where gratification is practically instant thanks to online shopping, we recently sat down with Kevin Hopper, director of fine timepieces at Eiseman Jewels, to explain why shopping in-store is absolutely essential when investing in a new watch. Without a doubt the most important reason to shop in-store is to ensure the authenticity of the product. High-end watches floating around on the Internet are likely to be a part of the gray market. While this trading of goods may be legal, it is unintended by the original manufacturer. Worst-case scenario: You unknowingly spend money on stolen goods and when you take the product into a local jewelry store to have it serviced, the staff has the legal responsibility to confiscate your timepiece. Although this situation sounds extreme, it is unfortunately happens. “People buying from a luxury authorized watch dealer can be sure that their purchase is 100 percent authentic, 100 percent brand-new and has gone through the correct importation process from the manufacturer,” Hopper says. “When you buy online, that safety net doesn’t exist.”

Hopper says second to the safety of your purchase is building a relationship with the person selling you a luxury timepiece. When spending anywhere from $2,000 to $50,000 and beyond, a customer should get to spend time with someone who is passionate about watches and dedicated to helping them make the right decision. “No one is there to tell you ‘no’ when shopping online. When shopping for something as substantial as a luxury timepiece, you need someone that is going to give you honest information and suggestions based on your lifestyle.” Building this relationship is often the cornerstone of a luxury timepiecebuying experience, which often includes multiple conversations, trying on a variety of brands and styles, and perhaps even a cocktail or two. Success hinges on the staff where you go to shop. “Investing in a luxury timepiece should be a luxury experience, not just a click-to-buy-it-now situation. The difference in the fulfillment of the purchase is two different worlds. In fact, when buying a watch online, there is no experience at all,” Hopper says. And in the end, buying from your local jeweler is simply good for Dallas. By supporting local businesses, you are helping hardworking staff make a living Local purchases also help business owners like Richard Eiseman continue to contribute to Dallas’ bustling philanthropic community. Need we say more? THE TIMEPIECE BOOK

WATCH UNIVERSITY PHOTO: COURTESY OF RICHEMONT TECHNICAL CENTER

TIMING IS EVERYTHING By Diana Oates

utting, filing, sawing. These are some of the sounds you might hear while strolling the halls of the The North American Institute of Swiss Watchmaking, located inside the 30,000-square-foot Richemont Technical Center in Fort Worth. Richemont is a luxury goods company that produces high-end timepieces like Cartier, Baume & Mercier, IWC, Vacheron Constantin and others. But that’s not the only thing Richemont produces. A Watchmakers of Switzerland Training Education Program (WOSTEP), its watchmaking institute is one of only two of its kind in North America, in addition to a Swatch program in Miami, and is tasked with training the future watchmakers of the world. “It’s such a benefit to the students that Richemont carries so many luxury timepieces,” says John Sokol, director of technical services at Richemont North America. “These watchmakers who study with us are getting to see watches that are not only high-end but also tech-oriented, exhibiting some of the highest levels of complication in the world.” This competitive, two-year program receives about 150 applications annually. The field is then narrowed to eight students who are admitted via an essay about why they want to be a watchmaker and an in-person interview. Although jewelry industry experience is certainly ideal, this year’s class comprises students coming from a variety of jobs, including a teacher, an oil field rigger, a seamstress and a stay-at-home mother looking to return to work. Students receive a full scholarship for tuition and supplies, and are in charge of their own room and board.

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Year one of the prestigious program focuses on micromechanics. In year two, students actually get their hands on watches to study movement and how to properly handle and install the various parts. “Students typically don’t even touch a watch in the first year,” Sokol says. “We take the time to learn each value step yet it’s still a very fast-paced environment. Kids in college, if they get sick, can typically catch up after missing a week of class—that is definitely not the case here.” The certification culminates with a final exam graded by WOSTEP watchmakers flown in to Fort Worth from Europe. Students get two attempts to pass the exam, and that’s just the beginning of these newly minted master crafters’ journey to ultimate success in the field. “As most graduates will tell you, it’s two years of training, but once you get into a new position it takes two to three years there to get your feet firmly planted in a new working environment,” Sokol says. Most graduates leave Fort Worth and are placed in jobs within the Richemont luxury goods umbrella. After all, the technical institute is essentially just a two-year-long interview where instructors and staff really get to know these watchmakers. Others return to their hometowns to work at local jewelers and service facilities. “Watchmaking is very much like building a house,” Sokol says. “The foundation is your education. The building of your house is the in-field training and over the next 10 to 20 years you make upgrades. It’s the changing from carpet to hardwood floors and from granite to marble countertops that equates to perfecting the watchmaking craft over time.”

NEIMAN MARCUS Q&A

MATTER OF TIME VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

A LONGTIME NEIMAN MARCUS VP SHARES THE INSIDE SCOOP ON WHAT MAKES HIM — AND THE LUXURY DIVISION — TICK.

ative Texan Larry Pelzel has spent his adult life — the past 36 years — working in the precious jewels division for Neiman Marcus. He joined as a sales associate in the downtown store right out of college and hasn’t left since. “This is really the only grownup job I’ve had,” he says in his thick Texan accent, and laughs. “The jewelry business is fascinating and alluring. The more I hung around, the more I became fascinated.” The former seller, buyer and manager now holds the prestigious role of vice president/divisional merchandise manager for precious jewelry, a job that enables him to have a hand in the acquisition of rare and precious stones, and design and execute pieces in the company’s custom design studio. In the studio he has developed a great appreciation for the behind-the-scenes attention and thought it takes to dream up, create and execute beautifully made jewelry. “Many watches have been given to commemorate special occasions, such as a birth, graduation or a significant anniversary,” he says. “I love the idea that these pieces can be instant heirlooms. Fine timepieces can be passed through generations and always have a story to be told.” An avid collector (masculine and vintage works dominate his own collection), his love of timepieces has only been heightened by trips to Switzerland to tour watchmaking factories. “I’ve always been fascinated to see firsthand the incredible skills watchmakers posses,” he says. “I have an enormous respect for the sheer genius of the engineers and designers.” For Neiman Marcus’ selection, the self-described “classic romantic” especially loves pieces that tell a story — a talent that he believes Van Cleef & Arpels and Chanel have been doing for decades. The Van Cleef & Arpels “Poetic Complications” line, which includes their famous “Lovers on a Bridge,” and “Poetic Wish,” timepieces, which illustrates lovers in Paris trying to find one another, are some he most enjoys. “Not only do they weave beautiful narratives, but they have award winning complicated mechanics,” he says. Neiman Marcus recently collaborated with Chanel on a worldwide exclusive, a special edition version of the Chanel BOY•FRIEND timepiece. Only 50 of these watches — which are $11,000 and boast a diamond bezel, black dial and a very unique tweed bracelet — will be released to the public beginning this month. “It’s a big coup for Neiman Marcus,” Pelzel says. The Chanel BOY•FRIEND watch was created from the special relationship between Neiman Marcus and Chanel and this watch is a very special offering to our clients.

Pont des Amoureux

Part of the Poetic Complications collection, the Lady Arpels Pont des Amoureux or “Lovers on A Bridge” watch case 38mm. This watch is white gold, diamonds with enamel dial and white alligator strap. Price upon request, at Neiman Marcus stores.

CHANEL BOY•FRIEND

Chanel BOY•FRIEND TWEED Worldwide Exclusive, Stainless steel and diamond bezel, black dial and tweed bracelet. $11,000, exclusively at Neiman Marcus stores.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

Lady Arpels Poetic Wish

A piece in the Collection Complications Poétiques, the Lady Arpels Poetic Wish watch case 39 mm. The watch is white gold with diamonds and sapphire glass back. The white gold dial has engraving, champleve enamel, miniature painting on gold, white mother-of-pearl sculpting and marquetry, miniature painting on mother-of-pearl, translucent enamel on yellow gold paillon.The timepiece portrays the story of a young woman on the Eiffel Tower who is longing to be reunited with her love. Price upon request, at Neiman Marcus stores.

THE TIMEPIECE BOOK

KEY PIECES

ANATOMY OF A FINE TIMEPIECE As the pinnacle of Cartier’s new Drive de Cartier line of watches, this ﬂying tourbillon execution not only captures the eye, but also serves as an apt case study for the use of some of watchmaking’s ﬁnest techniques and materials.

Hour Hand

Guilloche: Traditional turned engraving work that appears on many ﬁnely-ﬁnished watch faces. The Drive de Cartier’s guilloche work was inspired by the grilles of vintage automobiles.

Flying Tourbillon: A tourbillon, French for “whirlwind,” is a miniscule, expertly engineered device that counters gravity’s slow and constant effects on a watch movement’s precision. The watch escapement and spinning balance wheel are housed in a cage this is also rotated, in this case, once every minute. In a ﬂying tourbillon, some support bridges have been removed to create even more visual appeal for this enchanting complication.

Case in 18k rose gold

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Cartier Drive de Cartier Flying Tourbillon manual-wind timepiece in 18k rose gold and leather strap.

Lugs: Contoured for elegant integration with the strap

Bezel in 18k rose gold

Minute Hand: Cartier uses signature blued sword hands for its minute and hour indicators.

Crown: To set and wind the watch. Cartier uses a signature hexagonal crown capped with a cabochon blue sapphire.

Small Seconds Sub-Dial: This watch has no sweeping seconds hands in the center of the dial. Instead, an indicator on the ďŹ&#x201A;ying tourbillon rotates to tick off seconds on this sub-dial.

Strap in brown leather

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AUDEMARS PIGUET

Audemars Piguet 18-carat gold ultra-thin automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch, the world’s first, introduced in 1978.

THE INDEPENDENT SPIRIT By James Stacey

s one of the most respected watch manufacturers in the world, Audemars Piguet has built an enviable 140-year history from their home in Le Brassus, Switzerland. Despite being a fully independent and family-owned brand, Audemars Piguet is known all over the world as a top tier producer of high end watches, blending traditional artisan craftsmanship with increasingly modern production techniques to create an ever-evolving ecosystem that supports a considerable collection of watches, from the game-changing Royal Oak to the wondrously complicated Jules Audemars Tourbillon Openworked. Founded in 1875 by Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet, modern Audemars Piguet remains under family ownership, affording the brand a rare level of independence within the Swiss watch industry. This independent spirit and steadfast focus on passionate watchmaking has served Audemars Piguet well, allowing the brand the flexibility to innovate while many of their peers languished or disappeared altogether. Having started by producing pocket watches with a strong focus on developing traditional complications, Audemars Piguet produced their first wristwatch in the early 1890’s, including their introduction of the world’s first minute repeater wristwatch in 1892. This passionate focus on impressive and highly technical complications is a central tenant of Audemars Piguet. The company is responsible for an incredible list of developments, including hallmarks like the 1955 introduction of the first perpetual calendar wristwatch that included a leap year indication and, after considerable advancement, the 1978 release of the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch.

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Surprisingly, modern Audemars Piguet’s most iconic watch is not especially complicated. On the contrary, it is a design that forged the very concept of a luxury sports watch in steel, the Royal Oak. Despite now being known as an icon of watch design and the progenitor of an entire market segment, when the Royal Oak was launched at the Basel Fair in 1972, it was hardly a hit. Facing the threat of the quartz revolution, Audemars Piguet’s idea to create a luxury steel sports watch was well ahead of its time and the Royal Oak featured an avant-garde design from none other than Gerald Genta. Famously designed in less than 24 hours, Genta’s Royal Oak was characterized by a diving helmet-inspired octagonal bezel beset with eight screws, a thin steel case and a fully integrated bracelet. Surviving the quartz crisis required a sizable gamble, and while it took several years for the idea of the Royal Oak to find a footing among buyers, Audemars Piguet had effectively redefined the entire luxury sports watch segment. Other brands followed suit, and the Royal Oak would become Audemars Piguet’s most recognizable product, inspiring a family of sport watches that translate Genta’s original design into everything from burly dive watches, to sporty chronographs and haute horology works of high complication. More than 40 years later, Audemars Piguet’s success as a manufacture is undeniable. With recent introductions including the sporty Royal Oak Offshore Diver Chronograph, the classic yellow gold Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar and the sublime Royal Oak Concept Supersonnerie, Audemars Piguet continues to develop, innovate and excite in a manner befitting both their roots and the legacy of the Royal Oak.

TO BREAK THE RULES, YOU MUST FIRST MASTER THEM. THE VALLÃ&#x2030;E DE JOUX. FOR MILLENNIA A HARSH, UNYIELDING ENVIRONMENT; AND SINCE 1875 THE HOME OF AUDEMARS PIGUET, IN THE VILLAGE OF LE BRASSUS. THE EARLY WATCHMAKERS WERE SHAPED HERE, IN AWE OF THE FORCE OF NATURE YET DRIVEN TO MASTER ITS MYSTERIES THROUGH THE COMPLEX MECHANICS OF THEIR CRAFT. STILL TODAY THIS PIONEERING SPIRIT INSPIRES US TO CONSTANTLY CHALLENGE THE CONVENTIONS OF

+888.214.6858 | AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM

FINE WATCHMAKING.

ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE CHRONOGRAPH IN STAINLESS STEEL

DALLAS: NORTHPARK CENTER +1 214.369.6100

CARTIER

Drive de Cartier timepiece in steel.

DRIVING FORCES By Jason Heaton

hat makes a driver’s watch? Is it a split seconds chronograph with a burly case and tachymeter bezel calibrated to track lap times? Or is it high-tech materials that evoke a Formula 1 car—carbon fiber and ceramic? For Cartier, the answer is not so literal. A driver’s watch is more about conjuring a feeling, as much about the freedom of the open road as the elegance of a classic automobile. The new Drive de Cartier is a bold reinterpretation of the design codes for which Cartier is famous—instantly masculine and sporty, yet refined and elegant—a balance the maison has struck for over a century. Drive de Cartier debuted at the annual Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in January, 2016 with an entirely new shape. Its sculpted case widens out dramatically from the lugs, giving it a broad-shouldered appearance, yet its dimensions are entirely restrained at 40 millimeters across the dial. This is quite possibly the perfect diameter for a men’s watch, well suited for a variety of wrists and scenarios, one that is equally suited for weekday or weekend, sweater to sport coat. So why is it called the Drive? Look closely at the guilloché dial of the Drive de Cartier. Its shape and pattern were inspired by the radiator grilles of old sports cars. The seconds subdial is reminiscent of a dashboard gauge. The hexagonal crown has a mechanical purity to it. None of these cues are blatant, but all lend an overall vibe of the gentleman sportsman, who chooses to shift for himself and wears leather driving gloves as much for grip as for a statement of purpose. The Drive pairs well with that zeitgeist, whether in stainless steel or rose gold.

THE TIMEPIECE BOOK

Cartier watches have always been about subtle masculinity, dating back to the first wristwatch it made in 1905 for Alberto Santos-Dumont, the dashing pilot who requested a timepiece that could be visible at a glance while flying. Since then, it has had an uncanny knack for coming up with iconic shapes, from the Tank to the Ballon Bleu, and now the Drive de Cartier. Of course, no matter the case shape, a Cartier always bears certain trademark characteristics—the Roman numeral dial, sword hands and a cabochon-capped crown, all lending sophistication to even the sportiest watch. Inside the Drive de Cartier is a movement designed and built entirely by the house, their calibre 1904MC-PS, which is visible through the sapphire caseback. The 27-jewel self-winding engine has a full 48 hours of power reserve, should you choose to keep it off the wrist that long. Its bridges and winding rotor are decorated with a mix of Geneva stripes and circular graining and emblazoned with the Cartier name. The “PS” in the name? “Petite Secondes”, or small seconds, referring to the offset placement of the sweep seconds hand on the dial. This is a worthy motor for the sporty Drive. For those seeking the subtlety and refinement of a quietly masculine timepiece, the Drive de Cartier is just the ticket, with its sweeping new lines and classic cues. And despite the fact that great effort and care were taken to redefine what a driver’s watch can be, the Drive de Cartier, in signature fashion, achieves this without appearing to try too hard.

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IWC

Big Pilot Spitfire watch in rose gold.

INTERNATIONAL AFFAIRS By James Stacey

hile IWC’s popular Big Pilot watches are arguably the watchmaker’s most visible calling card, this Schaffhausen-based luxury brand produces an incredibly varied range of watches, from the sporty Ingenieur to the dressy Portofino to the decidedly classical Da Vinci. Whether you’re a pilot, a diver, an engineer, an artist, or something else entirely, from the tough and sporty to the exquisitely complicated, IWC is a hugely successful and historic Swiss manufacturer, with an intriguing international history. Founded in 1868 by an American named Florentine Ariosto Jones, International Watch Company has become synonymous with watchmaking in the Schaffhausen area of northern Switzerland along the border with Germany. Jones moved from Boston to Switzerland seeking to blend traditional Swiss craftsmanship with advanced technologies and cutting edge engineering practices. By 1875, IWC had nearly 200 employees and production of wristwatches begins in the late 1890’s, with wristwatch-specific movements being developed by 1915. While IWC introduced a pilot specific watch in 1936, the iconic Big Pilot’s Watch, which featured a central seconds hand for improved legibility, debuted in 1940. Through the 40’s and 50’s, IWC continued developing not only their aviation and military watches, but also more advanced technologies like their first automatic winding system. Named after IWC’s then Technical Director Albert Pellaton, the Pellaton winding system first appeared in use with the calibre 85 in 1950 and remains to this day a proprietary technology for IWC. Ever expanding, IWC pushed to develop new movements and more adventurous designs, launching their first dive watch, the Aquatimer, in 1967. Eager to say

THE TIMEPIECE BOOK

on the forefront of emerging technology, IWC participated in the 1969 creation of the Beta 21 quartz movement, which powered a Da Vinci model launched that same year. By the mid 70’s, watch designer Gerald Genta had been tasked by IWC to create a sporty steel watch to compete with the growing success of the Royal Oak, which he had previously designed for Audemars Piguet. Nicknamed “Jumbo,” the resulting Ingenieur SL hit the scene in 1976 with a 40mm steel case, integrated bracelet and IWC’s anti-magnetic calibre 8541B. True to its roots as a watch boasting considerable protection from magnetism, the SL was shielded from magnetic fields up to 80,000 A/m. All while ensuring a high level of accuracy and an easy-wearing everyday charm. IWC further established their position with an impressive run of beautifully designed and laboriously engineered watches. Milestones include the 1982 Ocean 2000, a titanium-cased dive watch that was water resistant to 2,000 meters, the 1993 Il Destriero Scafusia, a limited edition watch that combined an unrivaled perpetual calendar, minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph and a tourbillon, and the 2000 reveal of their 5000 calibre which offered a full seven days of autonomy and featured their Pellaton automatic winding system. Always looking forward, IWC’s roots in a Germanic area of Switzerland have undoubtedly shaped their nearly 150-year history. Combining Swiss manufacturing and craftsmanship with a specific focus on technology and advanced engineering; IWC has established itself as a prolific force within the watch industry, with many of their core models born during a pivotal time in the history of watchmaking.

IWC PORTUGIESER. THE LEGEND AMONG ICONS.

Portugieser Perpetual Calendar. Ref. 5033: The daring expeditions of the

could be working on its legendary status for IWC . E N G I N E E R E D FO R M E N . eternity.

Portuguese seafarers held out the promise of everlasting glory. A worthy legacy of this heroic epoch is the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar. Timelessly elegant, it features trailblazing technology that includes a 7-day automatic moveme nt w ith Pe llaton w inding a nd a powe r reserve display showing the date until 2499. So conver ted into human lifetimes, this model

Mechanical movement, Pellaton automatic winding, IWC-manufactured 52610 calibre, 7-day power reserve, Power reserve display, Perpetual calendar with displays for the date, day, month, year in four digits and perpetual moon phase, Sapphire glass, Seethrough sapphire-glass back, Water-resistant 3 bar, Diameter 44.2 mm, Alligator leather strap by Santoni

JAEGER-LECOULTRE

Geophysic Universal Time watch in rose gold.

THE WATCHMAKER’S WATCHMAKER By Jason Heaton

he Vallée de Joux is 90 minutes by car from Geneva, but a world away. Here, cows outnumber cars and people cross-country ski to work. In the 1800s, this valley would have been a day’s journey from the big city and isolated for months when the mountain snows came. Idle farmers turned to watchmaking by winter, a skill passed over the border from France. As time went on, this expertise led to a growing cottage industry, and soon the Vallée de Joux had a reputation for producing some of the finest watches in the world, brought down each spring to sell in Geneva. One of those who overwintered in the valley hung out a watchmaking shingle at a farmhouse in 1833. His name was Antoine LeCoultre. For much of the nineteenth century, LeCoultre turned out complicated pocketwatches, including a celebrated chronograph minute repeater, and in 1847, he produced one of the first watches that could be wound without a key. Here was a tinkerer, the prototypical Swiss watchmaker, finding solutions to problems, inventing tools that didn’t already exist. From these humble beginnings in the Vallée de Joux came one of the powerhouse brands of the twentieth century. In 1903, Antoine LeCoultre took on a partner, Edmond Jaeger, who helped grow the company into a commercial success in Europe and beyond. With the burgeoning Swiss watch industry in high demand, LeCoultre, and later Jaeger-LeCoultre, became household names on both sides of the Atlantic. Throughout the twentieth century, Jaeger-LeCoultre was known not for its prestige but for its prowess, producing over 1,200 different calibres and over 400 patented inventions. Under its own name came watches for British polo players and royalty alike (the Reverso), iconic pilots’ watches (the Mark XI) and a mechanical alarm watch that became a world standard (the Memovox).

THE TIMEPIECE BOOK

The Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 101, introduced in 1929, remains to this day the world’s smallest mechanical movement, at a mere 14 millimeters long and weighing in at just one gram. This prolific and proficient output is what earned Jaeger-LeCoultre the nickname, “the watchmaker’s watchmaker”. Today, Antoine LeCoultre’s spirit lives on in the same factory he started in 1833. The farmhouse has been expanded on, and so have the watches Jaeger-LeCoultre offers. Still present is the original reversible watch, the Reverso, along with the classic, elegant Master series. The Geophysic combines the style of a 1950s sports watch with the groundbreaking True Second complication. For ladies, the Rendez-Vous collection pairs high watchmaking with high art—enameling and jewel-setting—while at the top end of the range, the Hybris Mechanica and Duomètre timepieces are at the cutting edge of haute horlogerie. All of the watches Jaeger-LeCoultre builds are intended for daily wear. Dive watches, chronographs, even dress watches, are put through rigorous testing for 1,000 hours—nearly six weeks—before they’re deemed good enough to leave the factory. This so-called “1,000 Hour Control” protocol, unequaled in the Swiss watch industry, is where finished timepieces are tested in different positions and temperatures to ensure their reliability and accuracy. The Vallée de Joux may be a quick drive from Geneva these days, but at Jaeger-LeCoultre, the watches are still built with the same care and innovation as they were by Antoine LeCoultre himself in his humble farmhouse in the 1800s. And from there, they’ve become famous the world over. Including Dallas, where Eiseman’s Jewels in NorthPark Center is proud to be an authorized seller of the timepieces from this “watchmaker’s watchmaker.”

Reverso Tribute Calendar watch Eduardo Novillo Astrada, polo Champion, Winner of the Argentine Triple Crown.

PANERAI

Radiomir 1940 Minute Repeater Carillon Tourbillon GMT Oro Rosso timepiece.

ITALIAN ACCENT By Jason Heaton

hile many watch brands claim some nautical heritage, Officine Panerai’s entire history is tied to the ocean, and this legacy continues today. In 1916, the Italian company, which had a small workshop in Florence, filed a patent for a luminous radium-based paste called “Radiomir” that was used on nautical and diving instruments such as compasses, barometers and depth gauges. Thus began a utilitarian maritime focus that would set the tone for a brand known for making some of the most authentic “tool” watches. By the 1930s, Panerai was supplying its instruments to the Italian Navy as well as a new wristwatch—oversized, with a simple dial of hashes and numerals—that could be read easily day or night. This prototypical Panerai timepiece was, by most accounts, the first purpose-built diving watch in history, procured for use by military frogmen embarking on some of World War II’s most daring and dangerous underwater maneuvers. These earliest Panerais were studies in minimalism, with cushionshaped cases, welded strap bars, and sturdy handwound pocketwatch movements. The fluted onion-shaped crown was almost decorative, belying the watch’s utility. A descendent of this seminal Panerai is still in the brand’s collection today, known simply as the Radiomir, though its bright luminescence is now less radioactive than its historic forebear. By 1940, the original Radiomir evolved into a more modern timepiece. Gone were the looped wire strap bars and the onion crown, replaced by integrated beefy horns and a sturdier cylindrical crown. Still present was the iconic dial, with its luminous plate sandwiched under the stenciled dial. This watch is also emulated in the modern Panerai family, know as the Radiomir 1940. A decade on, in 1950, the Panerai diving watch evolved further. A half-moon shaped steel guard was added to protect the winding crown, making the watch

THE TIMEPIECE BOOK

bigger and even more robust. And a new luminous compound made its debut. Based on tritium instead of radium, Panerai called this new paint, “Luminor” and added it to its latest watch. The modern Luminor, which descended from this 1950s watch, is perhaps Panerai’s most famous design, one that caught the eye of actor Sylvester Stallone in the 1990s, who is largely credited with reviving interest in this niche maker of military instruments. The late 1950s brought further refinements. Panerai added a rotating bezel to its watches, for the first time, on a monstrous 60mm model created for the Egyptian Navy. The bezel on the modern Luminor Submersibles is directly descended from this first “Egiziano,” with a rounded profile, polished coin-edged outer rim and raised five-minute markers. The Submersibles are now the epitome of deep-diving prowess, with one rated to an abyssal 2,500 meters of water pressure. As primarily an assembler of sturdy cases, dials and movements, Panerai historically did not develop its own movements. But in 2005, the first inhouse calibre debuted from the brand’s new manufacture in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, charting a new course for Panerai’s future. Indeed, now the company is among the elite of haute horlogerie, having developed and built over a dozen calibres, including complications such as a regatta-timing chronograph, a tourbillon, and, this year, even a groundbreaking double minute repeater. Despite Panerai’s move to the upper echelon of watchmaking, it has not forgotten its roots and the DNA of its instrument-making past. Still present are descendants of those early diving watches and, through its more recent connection with classic yacht racing, a direct tie to seafaring that dates back to its role as supplier to the Italian Navy. There is no denying that Panerai has sea water in its veins.

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ROLEX

Yacht-Master II in Everose gold.

THE STANDARD BEARER By Jason Heaton

o one knows quite for sure where the name “Rolex” came from. Most watch brands have the names of the companies’ founders, melodic French monikers that roll off the tongue. But legend has it that Rolex founder, Hans Wilsdorf, wanted a name that would be easy to remember and pronounce in any language. This may or may not be true, but whatever the case, he got something right, because even those who don’t know a thing about watches know Rolex. And that’s not just because it’s easy to pronounce. Rolex has over a century of extraordinary innovations, and watches that have been present at some of history’s greatest moments, making it a symbol of excellence and reliability. Not long after the watch moved out of a gentleman’s waistcoat pocket, in 1914, Rolex was awarded a Class “A” chronometer certification, the first wristwatch to be deemed accurate enough to be used for celestial navigation. This tradition of accuracy continues to this day, with Rolex tallying up the most annual Swiss-certified chronometers of any other maker. But accuracy is only half the battle. A watch can only be accurate if it can survive the rigors of day-to-day life. In the 1920s, Rolex developed its legendary Oyster case, with a screweddown caseback and crown, making the watch impervious to dust and moisture. Proving this point, Wilsdorf sent one of his company’s timepieces across the English Channel around the neck of swimmer Mercedes Gleitz and it, and she, emerged unscathed. Resistance to the elements would go on to be a hallmark of Rolex watches, which were taken to the highest points on Earth and the deepest spot in the ocean in the 1950s. Countless explorers and military personnel would choose Rolex watches for use in harsh environments, from

THE TIMEPIECE BOOK

the legendary Explorer to the Submariner. Even diamond-encrusted ladies’ watches have long been built for water resistance well beyond the limits of most scuba divers. Besides accuracy and immunity to the elements, Rolex has always focused on making its watches useful. In 1945, it was the first brand to introduce a watch that advanced the date automatically, the now-legendary Datejust. In the mid-1950s, at the dawn of the Jet Age, Pan Am airlines approached Rolex to create a watch for its long haul pilots. The result was the GMT-Master, a watch that could track two time zones at once, thanks to its 24-hour hand and rotating bezel. Today, the Rolex catalog still contains the familiar descendants of these icons, updated for a new century. The Explorer, the Datejust, the GMT-Master and the Submariner are all present, with movements that now resist magnetic influence and shock, cases made from corrosion resistant 904L stainless steel, fade-resistant gold, and scratch-proof ceramics. Newer watches continue the tradition of creating practical complications such as the programmable regatta timer in the Yacht-Master II and the innovative travel-timing function of the Sky-Dweller. What’s in a name? For Rolex, it’s about much more than pronunciation or a logo. Rolex has become synonymous with excellence, accuracy, practicality and durability, traits long valued by Channel swimmers, long-haul pilots, mountaineers and divers. It is a name that transcends a mere wristwatch to be a symbol of success, earned over a century of achievements. You can see all the latest Rolex innovations at the dedicated boutique in Eiseman’s Jewels in NorthPark. Ask for Rolex by name.

cellini dual time

THE CL ASSICAL WATCH BY ROLE X

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; the cellini collection celebrates the eternal elegance of traditional timepieces with a contemporary t wist. the cellini dual time with a

mm case in

ct everose gold grants

its wearers the gift of temporal ubiquit y, making them simultaneously aware of the time here and in a faraway land.

rolex

and cellini are trademarks.

ULYSSE NARDIN

Grand Deck Marine Tourbillon.

THE SEAS OF TIME By James Stacey

nique, horologically wonderful and just a little eccentric, Ulysse Nardin is an old-world brand with a youthful exuberance and a long-standing flare for the dramatic. From the record-breaking accuracy of its early marine chronometers to the peerless Freak watch and the awe-inspiring Grand Deck Marine Chronometer, Ulysse Nardin’s offerings are the result of a fascination with sensational design and outright unparalleled mechanical accuracy. Founded in 1846, not only have Ulysse Nardin timepieces been in production since its inception, it has also been operating out of the same Le Locle location since 1865. Originally focused on building precision marine chronometers for naval navigation, the company also produced innovative and award-winning pocket chronometers. By 1900, Paul-David Nardin was running the company that bears his father’s name and produced a limited run of super-accurate tourbillon-equipped pocket chronometers. Despite land-locked Ulysse Nardin’s relative geographic disconnection from the sea, its marine chronometers proved to be some of the best in the world, and were used by both the Russian and Japanese navies. Consistently working towards greater and greater accuracy, in 1950 a Ulysse Nardin chronometer broke a 50-year-old timekeeping record at the Neuchatel Observatory. The 1983 arrival of Rolf W. Schnyder as CEO marked a new age for the brand. Working with watchmaker Ludwig Oechslin, Ulysse Nardin launched the Astrolabium Galileo Galilei in 1985. Displaying a then-peerless 21 distinct functions, the astoundingly complex and Guinness world record-holding Astrolabium measured everything from solar and lunar eclipses to the equinoxes, solstices, zodiac signs and more. At the turn of this new century, Ulysse Nardin ushered in what is arguably

THE TIMEPIECE BOOK

its most iconic and innovative design, the Freak. Built upon a first ever 7-day tourbillon carousel, the Freak forgoes the need for hands or even a crown, as the movement itself rotates to display the time. Unlike anything in contemporary watchmaking, this ground-breaking timepiece would earn the 2002 Chronos Innovation Prize. Between 2000 and 2004, Ulysse Nardin would claim this price an impressive four times. By 2012, under the leadership of Patrik Hoffmann, Ulysee Nardin debuted a series of brand-new fully in-house movements, further asserting their independence and manufacturing prowess within the watch industry. From a skeleton tourbillon to a dual-time movement and a new calibre for the Freak Cruiser, Ulysse Nardin continues to develop innovative approaches to time keeping with a unique sense of showmanship. Few watches better illustrate the crucial mix of Ulysee Nardin’s technology, precision, and showmanship than the Grand Deck Marine Tourbillon. Announced at Baselworld 2016, the Grand Deck Marine Tourbillon features a jumping digital hour display and a boom-mounted retrograde minute hand that is controlled by a series of cables and winches. Meant to mimic the deck, rigging and boom of a yacht, the minute hand is pulled by tiny nanowire ropes that are fed through miniscule winches controlled by the Grand Deck’s hand-wound and tourbillon-equipped movement. The unique Grand Deck Marine Tourbillon is innovative, dramatic, and, for a brand like Ulysse Nardin, surprisingly traditional. With deep roots in maritime timekeeping, this long-standing Swiss manufacture comes full circle and has managed to preserve both its intense focus on accuracy and its uniquely eccentric sense of design for over 170 years.

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VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

“Pierre Arpels” timepiece in 18k white gold.

THE POETIC ESSENCE OF TIME By Jason Heaton

t is said that writing about art is akin to dancing about architecture, an endlessly elusive attempt to capture the intersecting essence of one with the other. What about capturing the essence of time in an object? That’s exactly what Van Cleef & Arpels does with its watches—capturing memories, experiences and dreams in function and exquisite design. Not an easy task to be sure, but one for which Van Cleef & Arpels is well suited. The company was founded in 1906 on the Place Vendôme in Paris, taking its name from Alfred Van Cleef and Estelle Arpels, a couple married a decade earlier. It stands to reason that a company born out of love would create beautiful objects and indeed, Van Cleef and Arpels was founded as a high jewelry maison. By the 1920s, as watches moved from the pocket to the wrist, Van Cleef began creating functional art in the form of wristwatches. But in 1935, the sensational Cadenas debuted and with it, the brand’s reputation for creating functional beauty was solidified. The Cadenas emulated a lock and fastened around the wrist, allowing a discerning lady to discretely check the time. Legend has it that the Duchess of Windsor suggested the concept to Van Cleef & Arpels, and when it was made, she was its most famous owner. Of course, a man needs a wristwatch as well, and in the late 1940s, Pierre Arpels devised one that captured the spirit of understated elegance with which the brand was synonymous. The watch, known by its creator’s name, became an instant icon, at first as a much sought after limited edition and later, more

THE TIMEPIECE BOOK

widely available. Its thin profile, minimalist dial, and unique strap attachment, were the picture of postwar refinement, slipping easily under the sleeve of a gentleman’s starched shirt cuff. The Pierre Arpels has become such a legend that it remains in the brand’s portfolio even today. In 2006, to celebrate the centenary of the company’s founding, Van Cleef & Arpels debuted its Poetic Complications timepieces, a new family of watches that conveyed not only the beauty of time but also the passage of it. The mechanical innovations, combined with the high jewelry savoir-faire of Van Cleef & Arpels, conspired to convey on the wrist the passing of the seasons, a stroll through Paris or the night sky’s constellations. Enameling, stone setting and haute horlogerie are all art forms in their own rights. Bringing them together in a wristwatch is how Van Cleef & Arpels creates a fourth— sheer poetry. Today, Van Cleef & Arpels continues composing the poetry of time with its unique families of timepieces for women and men. Still present are the timeless Cadenas and Pierre Arpels collections, and the Poetic Complications creations continue to grow. To own a Van Cleef & Arpels watch is akin to capturing time in a bottle, or preserving it in amber, yet it continues to march forward and collect future memories while reminding one of the past. And you can see them for yourself exclusively at the Van Cleef & Arpels boutique within NorthPark’s Nieman Marcus store.

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JAY ENGLISH The distinguished trial lawyer and principal of English Law Group PLLC tells the heartfelt story of how he came to own a Rolex.

… I have a feeling you’re about to tell me you celebrated a victory with a new

Who gave you an appreciation for a quality timepiece?

That jury really saw my client’s suffering, though, and the damages award was

I was raised by parents who were deeply affected by the Great Depression of the 1930s, when kids in East Texas were lucky to have a pair of shoes. A lesson my dad gave me early on is that, unlike women, men don’t put on flashy jewelry, wear gold chains and have flashy clothes, but that a man can and should splurge on two things: quality footwear and a quality timepiece. He said it was OK to buy those, because

timepiece... It is a tough thing to ask a jury to award major damages in a car wreck case, because almost everyone has been in a wreck without sustaining life-changing injuries. worth a “woo hoo” celebration. It was the largest soft tissue auto liability verdict in Dallas that year. I literally went right from the courthouse to the jewelry store, got my checkbook out, and wrote the owner a check for my Rolex. It was the most extravagant thing a poor boy from East Texas had done at that point, and it meant a great deal to me at the time. Seeing it on my arm reassures me. I own my own firm

they will last forever.

and cash flow is always a problem, but in 20 years I’ve only pawned it twice to make

Did he own a nice watch?

who make fun of me for it — they say I’d play better golf if I’d take the watch off.

My dad was a rascal who ran a welding supply company, and sometimes took things in trade for people who were behind on their bills. Sometime in the early ’60s, he came home with a stainless Rolex he claimed was brought home by a U.S. soldier who had taken it from the body of a dead German spy. My dad passed away while I was in high school, and that Rolex came to me along with a pair of his high-quality cowboy boots, which I still have. “Good watches, good footwear” ended up being

payroll! Seriously, I don’t take it off — to shower, to sleep, to play golf. I have friends But it hasn’t left my arm except to be cleaned and serviced in nearly two decades. And it still works well? It still keeps perfect time. I have since purchased one other Rolex that I wear during evenings out occasionally. It’s like buying a nice pair of shoes — if you keep them shined and the soles on, they will last forever.

a pretty good life lesson. Wow. Do you still have the Rolex? Sadly, no. When I was in college at UT Austin, I lost it in the mud at the Sig Ep Black Tie Safari party. It was one of the dumbest things I ever did, and I didn’t have a watch of any kind for a long time, but I was always looking to make an investment in a good timepiece. After law school, I practiced with a downtown silk-stocking firm for a few years, then decided I wanted to represent people who have been injured — as a trial lawyer. In 1997 or so, I represented a stockbroker who had been in what seemed like a minor impact collision — it was just a fender bender — but because he’d had a previous back surgery, the accident devastated him.

THE TIMEPIECE BOOK

I literally went right from the courthouse to the jewelry store, got my checkbook out, and wrote the owner a check for my Rolex.

TINA CRAIG The blogging fashion maven behind Snob Global Media dishes on her love of Cartier and accessorizing with quality timepieces What are some of your earliest memories of timepieces? My first watch was a two-tone Rolex, which my mother gave me when I was 17. But I didn’t learn to appreciate quality timepieces until college. Honestly, my favorite watches at the time were my multicolored Swatch watches and oversized Fendi fashion watches that I bought in different colors! My junior year, I purchased a stainless steel Tiffany & Co. watch. It had a slate gray face with Roman numerals. I was obsessed with everything Tiffany at the time. I should have been using my allowance to buy food and gas, but I was buying Tiffany silver jewels and Prada bags. All my allowance went to fashion—I was very thin. Since I was learning to be independent and appreciate better things, I started wearing my Rolex. But I didn’t officially start collecting until I got married. My husband David is a watch lover, and taught me quality over quantity. When did David first begin to influence your collection? David started buying me watches when we were dating. Ulysse Nardin, Franck Muller, Cartier and other brands. I was living and working in Asia at the time, and he FedExed a box of Easter cookies to me. Inside the box of cookies was another box, and inside that was Piaget’s Dancer watch in white gold and diamonds. My mother said, “That’s the man you should marry.” She thought it was so thoughtful to hide a beautiful timepiece in Easter cookies, and such a creative way to give a gift. I love Easter, and it was basically like the Easter Bunny came to me! Prior to that, I thought of watches as simply utilitarian and functional. But David loved watches so much and he would change them every day, so I learned they could become an accessory that you change with your looks. Now, I love the idea of watches as jewelry. For evening outfits I bring out different watches. I think it’s great for women to think that way—they aren’t just a timepiece, but an accessory.

I heard you have an affinity for Cartier. Did any style icons inspire your love of the brand? The panther herself! The house’s signature icon, which debuted in 1914, was first seen on a wristwatch—gems were inlaid to mimic her fur. The first piece with the entire panther was given to Jeanne Toussaint, who later joined the company. She was a branding genius who helped establish the panther likeness, and even earned a “La Panthère” nickname. Cartier invited me to tour the original Cartier in Paris when they learned of my love of the brand, and I ended up working with them to customize the Jeanne Toussaint Asymmetric Pouch. It was a dream come true. From the classic Tank watch, which projects a tough, hardware-inspired kind of delicacy, to the High Jewelry collection, which is as fanciful, whimsical and all-out diamond-encrusted as timepieces can be, Cartier elevates the notion of wearing a watch to something almost transcendent. What are some of your Cartier favorites? After we got married, David bought me a Cartier watch. He has also given me a special gold and diamond Cartier Panthère Mini watch, which has since been discontinued and is collectible. But it would be hard to top my Cartier Tank Américaine, one of the gifts he gave me while I was pregnant and couldn’t fit into much else. Not only is it connected to a pivotal time in my life and distinct memories, it’s been with me through the birth and raising of my son. A good timepiece doesn’t just serve as a worthwhile family heirloom; it also has the ability to provide a newfound sense of confidence other adornments don’t possess. All my best watches are from my husband. Do you also have an affinity for vintage pieces? I’ve just started collecting older pieces and have been learning more about how they are made. My older brother is a watch aficionado and has a collection of vintage Rolexes. I have a few vintage ones, including one from the 1920s that is pretty and delicate. I have an extra-large vintage Rolex that was also from my mother. But I’ve honestly been shopping vintage in my family’s closets. My husband has a solid gold classic men’s watch, and I think it is so chic. I love oversize men’s watches. In my family, no one’s watch collection is safe from me. I also love the Apple watch for its convenience. I have a few of them. What’s next on your list? I love unique watches, and the Cartier Crash, with its interesting provenance— Cartier says its design was inspired by the carefree spirit of Swinging London in the 1960s—and special shape, really appeals to me.

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A good timepiece doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t just serve as a worthwhile family heirloom; it also has the ability to provide a newfound sense of confidence other adornments donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t possess.

BRENT CARREKER The partner and president of private jet company Jet Linx Aviation knows the importance of punctuality – and the necessity of a long-lasting, quality timepiece. I see you’re wearing a Rolex. What’s the backstory? I bought it about 18 years ago, here in Dallas. It’s the Rolex Submariner, with a blue dial. I’m not big into diving but I happened to be on a diving trip with a friend and saw someone wearing it, and I loved it. I don’t buy a lot of things for myself – and no one in my family owned one – but I thought it was really pretty, so I splurged. At the time, it was a big purchase. And you’ve worn it ever since? I’ve rarely taken it off in the past 18 years. I workout every day in it, sleep it in – I really don’t remove it. I run a lot for stress relief, too, and since it’s waterproof, it works great. I’ve had to have it worked on a few times and replace a few parts. But it still works perfectly. It turned out to be a good investment. It’s fitting your watch would be a key staple in your everyday attire, when considering that with Jet Linx, time is crucial. Yes, with owning a private jet company, everything is about time. On-time departures, on-time arrivals – it’s all about being on time, saving people time, making sure that a person’s time spent on our flights is a wonderful experience. Time is essential in our business. It sounds cheesy, but I actually look at the time nonstop until every plane has landed around the country. It’s become a habit. Given that Jet Linx flies high-profile customers who appreciate any amount of time saved, I have to make promptness a priority.

With owning a private jet company, everything is about time. On-time departures, on-time arrivals – it’s all about being on time, saving people time, making sure that a person’s time spent on our flights is a wonderful experience. Time is essential in our business. 44

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That might be a reason you rarely remove it. Definitely. But I’m also a really simple guy, and if I have something that works really well, I don’t mess with it. I use it because it’s dependable, simple and attractive.

PAUL PASTORE The luxury custom homebuilder and founder of Waterside Properties and Kennington Premier likens the creation of a quality timepiece to crafting a fine home. What are your earliest memories of timepieces? My grandfather had a really cool gold pocket watch. He always had it in his pocket and took it out to tell time. That’s my earliest, most vivid memory of what ignited my passion for watches. My very first watch came in high school – I bought a watch with a timer and I was really excited about it. I always saw coaches with stopwatches in their hands, and now I had one on my wrist. I loved it. When did you first invest in a high-end watch? In 2009, after we completed a luxury home build here in Dallas, my wife bought me a Rolex Explorer II with a white face. We picked it out together, and it meant a great deal to me, not only because it was a quality timepiece I would have forever, but also because it symbolized the achievement of a large project. I’m sure you could easily compare the crafting of a fine watch to building a high-end home. Definitely. The mystique around a fine watch is that it has so many elements packaged in such a small space. There’s history, craftsmanship, knowledge, expertise, technology, design and functionality. Some can have more than a thousand pieces in them — they require so much precision and thought. It’s similar to building homes — we have a much larger canvas to work with, but it’s the same thought and process. Many fine watches are timeless, and that’s what I strive for with my homes. I want the design and quality to last forever. I’m sort of obsessed with watching a home come to life, and that’s why I highly respect watchmakers. They obviously have to have patience and a pure obsession for it.

The mystique around a fine watch is that it has so many elements packaged in such a small space. There’s history, craftsmanship, knowledge, expertise, technology, design and functionality.

I know you travel frequently to look for handcrafted elements for your homes. Do you find watches while out and about? I make a point to stop by unique watch shops. It’s a treasure hunt, because there’s a story behind almost every timepiece. I particularly love scouring watch shops in Italy. Once, a driver in Florence took us to his friend’s watch shop, filled with antique watches and it was fascinating. I love vintage pieces. I have an antique Heuer, which was created in the 1940s before TAG acquired the Swiss brand. I follow some guys in Germany who buy watches, refurbish and clean them. They did a really good job with my Heuer. What are some of the other pieces in your collection? I have about 14 watches in my collection — not all are high-end. But I love pieces with history and good design. I have a Longines, a simple dress watch, an Ernst Benz, and a Breitling, which I purchased two years ago. It can do so many things, and it’s heavy. I call it my workout watch.

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I remember when my dad bought my mom an 18-karat gold Piaget with a tiger’s-eye face about 40 or 50 years ago. That was my earliest memory of truly seeing a beautiful watch, and it kindled my desire to have a collection of great timepieces at an early age. How did your own collection begin? While growing up, I loved Swatch watches. There were numerous collections and I bought some that represented different athletes — they came out with limited-edition versions. That was my earliest collection. What are you most drawn to in quality timepieces? I’ve always been interested in the design of watches. My first collector piece was a Hublot Classic Fusion in gold and stainless steel purchased at least 20 years ago. It

MICHAEL WILKOV With a proclivity toward the same exceptional Italian design on which his company is based, the Cantoni founder and CEO talks timeless timepieces. Who inspired your love of a quality timepiece? My dad and mom were always into watches and timepieces, and I remember when my dad bought my mom an 18-karat gold Piaget with a tiger’s-eye face about 40 or 50 years ago. That was my earliest memory of truly seeing a beautiful watch, and it kindled my desire to have a collection of great timepieces at an early age. I later acquired my father’s Girard-Perregaux Gyromatic Chronometer HF 18-karat gold watch. He passed it to me, and it’s still a timeless piece.

was a little-known brand at the time. It is still part of the collection — one of those classic designs — and is a great piece even today. A few years after my Hublot, I purchased a Bulgari Diagono, an Italian watch. I love it because of the durability. You can swim with it, and it has so much history. It also has been one of those classic but contemporary looks, and I’ve found it to be a great watch over time. Speaking of Italian design, it’s no secret you’re a fan given Cantoni’s history of carrying luxury Italian furnishings. How does that come into play in your collection? My latest watch is the Panerai Luminor Marina, which was designed in the 1950s and is a truly timeless piece. It’s my current favorite. It reflects Cantoni’s entire relationship with Italian design — no one else can touch the Italians in design and fashion. Take the Bertoia chair, for instance — everyone still loves that chair today. It transcends time, and I think Panerai does, too. They call it a design classic, and it is — it covers past, present and future. I love the Panerai Luminor Marina’s scale, the size, the strap, the whole movement of the piece. It’s cool. It also has interchangeable straps, and I just got a nice, new orange strap. I love that you can mix it up. What’s next on your list? I’ve nearly purchased the Hublot Big Bang Limited Edition, along with another Panerai. It just has to be the right time, and if it’s meant to be, it will happen. I’m always on the lookout for something new and exciting.

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STEVE STODGHILL The national director of business litigation development for Fish & Richardson has a long list of famous clients and a penchant for Panerai. Who inspired your love of luxury timepieces? Growing up, my grandfather and great-grandfather both had pocket watches. They would frequently show them to me and say, ‘A gentleman needs a nice watch.’ So, when I graduated from law school in 1987 and my grandparents gave me a nice cash graduation present, I used it to buy a steel and gold Rolex. I’ve collected nearly 20 watches ever since, and I have both my grandfather and great-grandfather’s pieces in my study at home today. Tell me about your most prized pieces. I have some Cartiers, some James Bond Omegas, and others, but my favorites are my Panerai watches. I have the Panerai Luminor, which Sylvester Stallone found in a small Rome watch shop in 1995. He wore it for the filming of Daylight, and even bought some for his Hollywood friends. It was my first Panerai, and is my favorite watch. Do any in your collection have an interesting story behind them? My wife Anne and I got engaged 17 years ago in Monte Carlo, Monaco. While gambling at a casino, I had a lucky roll – I was doing really well. So, I took my winnings over to the Cartier shop and bought my first Cartier. It is a Cartier Tank watch, which was created in 1917 by Louis Cartier. It’s a classic and iconic watch, and I still wear it to this day.

What is important to you in a quality timepiece? I go more for the style and design than the technical aspect. You want them to be able to tell time, of course, but I go more for the look of them. I have certain outfits for each watch – I’ll wear my Cartier Tank watch with a black tie. Others are best with suits or more casual attire. A watch has to be something that strikes my fancy since I wear one every day. I mix them all up, depending

I have the Panerai Luminor, which Sylvester Stallone found in a small Rome watch shop in 1995. He wore it for the filming of Daylight, and even bought some for his Hollywood friends. It was my first Panerai, and is my favorite watch.

on the kind of mood I’m in.

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GLOSSARY

DID YOU KNOW? A compendium of useful timepiece terminology, from materials to features to complications. WATCH MATERIALS

Anti-reflection: A film covering the sapphire crystal to eliminate light reflection, improving legibility. Anti-reflection functions best when applied to both sides of the crystal, but because it scratches, some manufacturers prefer it only on the crystal’s interior. Carbon fiber: A composite material made with carbon filament threads a mere one to two millimeters in diameter. The filament itself comprises several thousand seven-micron carbon fibers held together by resin. Ceramic: A nonmetallic high-tech material that is practically unscratchable. It is generally used for cases and bezels and now comes in many colors. Decoration/Finishing: The traditional polishes and embellishments added to movement parts. The better finished a movement is, the more expensive it will be. Jewel: To minimize friction in the movement, the hardened steel tips of a movement’s rotating gears are lodged in synthetic rubies fashioned as polished stones with holes and lubricated with a very thin layer of special oil. Luminous substance: Tritium is a slightly radioactive material used to coat hands, numerals, and hour markers on watch dials in order to make reading the time in the dark possible. Tritium has now for the most part been replaced by nonradioactive materials such as Super-LumiNova due to medical misgivings and expected governmental regulation of its use. Quartz: Timekeeping’s technical revolution found its way to the world’s wrists in the late 1960s. The first working quartz wristwatches were manufactured by an early joint venture within the Swiss watch industry, but Japanese firms— primarily Seiko—came to dominate the market with the new technology. The quartz movement uses the vibration frequency of a quartz crystal subjected to electronic tension (usually 32,768 Hz) as its norm. Sapphire crystal: Synthetic sapphire crystal has become the material of choice to protect the dials of modern wristwatches. It is virtually scratchproof as only a diamond is harder. Silicium/Silicon: Silicon, the most common element on earth after oxygen, is an element that is relatively new to the watchmaking industry and is thus often described as a “new material.” Many companies prefer to call it by its Latin name, silicium. It is now used in the manufacture of some escapements and other precision parts, replacing traditional materials.

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MOVEMENTS & COMPLICATIONS

Automatic winding: The rotor, a rotating weight on the movement, is set into motion by moving the wrist, winding the mechanical watch movement. As long as the watch is moved, the kinetic energy will keep it wound indefinitely. Without a rotor, a mechanical movement must be wound by turning the crown. Chronograph: From the Greek chronos (time) and graphein (to write), this term is used for watches that show not only the time of day, but also time intervals like a stopwatch. Chronometer: As the term is used today, a chronometer denotes an especially accurate watch. Chronometers are usually supplied with an official certificate from an independent testing office like the C.O.S.C. (see below). Minute repeater: A striking mechanism with hammers and gongs for acoustically signaling the hours, quarter hours, and minutes elapsed since noon or midnight. Normally a repeater uses two different gongs to signal hours (low tone), quarter hours (high and low tones in succession), and minutes (high tone). Moon phases: Usually found in a little cutaway on a watch dial, this indication provides information about the current status of the moon by use of a graphic representation of the earth’s satellite, like a golden disk. Perpetual calendar: This type of calendar display automatically makes allowances for the different lengths of each month as well as leap years until the next secular year (in 2100). A perpetual calendar usually displays the date, month, and four-year cycle, and may show the day of the week and moon phase as well. Power reserve display: A mechanical watch’s energy is provided by winding (manual winding) or rotor (automatic). The power reserve display keeps the wearer informed about how much energy his or her watch still has in reserve, a function that is especially practical on manually wound watches with several days of possible reserve. Tourbillon: Patented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801, it compensates for the influence of gravity on the escapement. From the French word for “whirlwind,” the entire escapement is mounted on an epicyclic train in a “cage” and rotated completely on its axis over regular periods of time, usually once a minute. Water resistance: Water resistance is an important feature of any timepiece and is usually measured in increments of one atmosphere (atm or bar, equal to 10 meters of water pressure) or meters and is often noted on the dial or case back.

ORGANIZATIONS & APELLATIONS

C.O.S.C.: Contrôle Officiel Suisse de Chronomètrage, the official Swiss testing office for chronometers. For a fee, the C.O.S.C., the world’s largest issuer of chronometer certificates, tests and certifies the rates of movements. Manufacture: Modern definitions of this word are not clear-cut, but most experts agree that the term should be used for a company that manufactures at least one caliber on premises. Derived from Latin it means “made by hand.”

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