North Estonia nature by North Estonia

NORTH ESTONIAN NATURE TOURISM GUIDE

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NORTH-ESTONIA

North-Estonia features a variety of natural wonders. It has a stunning coastline with alternating limestone cliffs high above the sea and low-lying sandy beaches bordered by pine forests, small fishing villages on headlands and sheltered ports on coves. There are well-lighted pine forests and dark gloomy woods where one can wander for days. Undiscovered secrets are hidden in vast bog areas. Limestone subsoil ensures the diversity of flora. Nice panoramic views can be enjoyed on Pandivere Upland and Ontika Cliff. Many scenic waterfalls fall down from the limestone clint. Karst caves, underground rivers and sinkholes as well as clear-water lakes and blue springs form a part of the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s natural beauty. Large numbers of migrating birds travel across the coastal headlands and colonies of seabirds occupy the islets. Howling of wolves in autumn and whooping of owls in spring â&#x20AC;&#x201C; you will find all this and more in North-Estonia. North-Estonia has been inhabited since remote antiquity. Settlement traces of Mesolithic fishers and hunters date back to 7000

ESTONIA

TALLINN

3 years BC. Similar archaeological finds have been discovered from neighbouring areas. This Mesolithic culture is named Kunda culture. Towards the end of the Bronze Age, land cultivation started and settlement spread from the shores to the limestone plateau where calcareous bedrock contributed to the fertility of soil. The earliest permanent known settlements associated with farming are about 3000 years old. They were situated in Jõelähtme parish in Harju County. Aside from areas of high soil fertility that became soon inhabited, there were vast areas with extremely low population density. The forests and mires of Alutaguse, Kõrvemaa, Lahemaa and Vihterpalu regions offer real joy of discovering the nature. One can wander in these intact regions for hours without encountering anybody.

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LIMESTONE CLIFF Those who arrive to North Estonia by sea are greeted by a high limestone wall – the coastal limestone cliff. The cliff is about 300 kilometres long (bird’s-eye view), which makes about one fourth of the 1,200 kilometres long Baltic cliff.

RAKVERE

NARVA – NORTH-ESTONIAN LIMESTONE CLIFF

COAST AND CLIFFS The Baltic Klint extending from the shores of Lake Ladoga in Russia to Öland Island in Sweden gives the North-Estonian coast a unique look. As a part of the Baltic Klint, the 300-kmlong North-Estonian Klint stretches from Narva to Osmussaar Island forming gigantic cliffs on the seashore. The North-Estonian Klint is the highest and longest part of the Baltic Klint with an average height of 30 m. The cliff reaches 56 m above the sea level. There are several hypotheses on the formation of the Baltic Klint. According to the prevailing theory the klint was formed due to denudation of the streambed of the ancient Pra-Neva River once flowing in the bottom of the Gulf of Finland. Later, the continental ice sheet and the Baltic Sea shaped the escarpment. The most impressive section of the Baltic Klint lies between Saka and Toila in Virumaa region. Cliffs facing the sea are not all we can see on the North-Estonian coast. There are also sandy beaches, particularly in Harju County, Lahemaa National Park and in Narva-Jõesuu. Moraine coast is another widespread coast type in North-Estonia. Boulders of various sizes are found in many places along the coast. Fluvial and glacial abrasions have resulted in the formation of klint bays and klint headlands. In places where klint headland stretches to the sea, steep and high coastal escarpment is exposed. The most outstanding cliffs in the western part of North-Estonia include Väike-Pakri Cliff (13 m high) on the Island of Väike-Pakri, Pakri Cliff (24 m) on Pakri Cape, Türisalu Cliff (30 m) and Rannamõisa Cliff (35 m). Close to Tallinn, the klint recedes back towards the mainland, forming a large klint bay the bank of which reaches deep into the mainland and is traceable only fragmentarily. The klint is distant from the sea and buried under sedimentary deposits also in Lahemaa National Park. In this area the North-Estonian coastal plain occupies the territory between the sea and klint plateau. The highest and most monumental section of the klint is located in the eastern part of North-Estonia. The elevation of the cliff is the highest at Ontika, reaching 56 m above the sea level. East from Toila there are Voka Cliff (44 m), Päite Cliff (41 m) and Utria Cliff (22 m). Eastward from here the escarpment retreats from the sea and becomes buried under sedimentary deposits. Its slanting slope extends to Narva, where the steps of a former Narva Falls designate its location. (See map on page 2)

ERRATIC BOLDERS The most visible traces of ice age in Estonia are the erratic bolders which are huge rocks made of Scandinavian granite or of material similar to it. It is hard to notice erratic bolders in the areas north of Estonia, since there they are practically indistinguishable from local rocks. The more to south, the smaller the erratic bolders become. North-Estonia can be considered the area richest in erratic bolders in Europe.

ISLANDS

About 100 islands lie on the North-Estonian coast. The most abundant with islands are Tallinn Bay and Kolga Bay. The biggest island in North-Estonia is Naissaar separating Tallinn Bay from the Gulf of Finland. Most of the islands lie close to the seashore with few exceptions like Vaindloo Island, Uhtju Island, and Keri Island. By formation, the islands of the southern part of the Gulf of Finland are the ridges of huge drumlin-like formations once shaped by the continental ice sheet and later sculptured both by waves and wind. Islands boast numerous erratic boulders and stony beach ridges, as well as sand dunes, small lakes, and mire patches. Forest grows only on larger islands. Brushwood with scattered trees prevails on most of the islands. Some open grasslands are found on islands where sheep are or have been grazed. Empetrum heaths, representing rare plant communities, can be found on Aksi Island, Prangli Island, and Koipse Island. Pakri Islands and Osmussar Island at the mouth of the Gulf on Finland are essentially relicts of the North-Estonian Klint. On V채ike-Pakri Island the klint is exposed above the sea level as a 13-metre-high escarpment. Extensive ridges are found on these islands. Alvars, specific calcareous grasslands based on limestone bedrock with very thin soil, are the dominant plant communities on many islands. There are several small lakes drying out in summer on islands. Before the II World War ethnic Swedes, the so-called coastal Swedes resided on these islands as well as on Naissaar Island. During the first half of the last century Soviet military training polygons were established on these islands. Before the II World War many of the small islands had human settlement or were used for grazing animals in summer. Islands became abandoned after the war. Only Soviet Army and Border guard was present, attentively monitoring that nobody enters the islands without a permit. To some extent, the seabirds benefitted from the situation having more habitats and nesting peace. North-Estonian islands provide nesting habitats for common eider, velvet scoter, oystercatcher, ruddy turnstone, great cormorant as well as several gull and tern species. Nature conservations restrictions have been applied on most of the islands. Access to the islands is prohibited during the nesting period between April 1 and June 30 on most of the islets. Moving around is prohibited during the nesting season also in specifc areas of larger islands. Regular sea transport to Naissaar Island, Aegna Island, and Prangli Island is operating. Many smaller islands can be accessed by boat from the nearest port on the mainland. Taking a boat or yacht on your own can be risky, as for the most part the islets lack ports, or other proper access. (See map on page 18)

SMALL ISLANDS There are over 1,500 islands in the Estonian coastal waters. Depending on their way of origination they can be very different in different parts of the coast. Most of the NorthEstonian islands are the upper parts of the relicts from the ice age, which have been strongly modified by waves during a long period of time.

LIMESTONE Palaeozoic rocks are exposed on the North-Estonian klint. Fossils preserved in the strata of these rocks reflect the life on Earth 460–540 million years ago. The upper part of the klint comprises hard Ordovician limestone, while the stratum below consists of softer Cambrian sandstone and clay. In the early Palaeozoic, i.e. in Cambrian, Ordovician and Silurian, the sea dominated on Earth. An ancient supercontinent Gondwana occupied large part of the Southern Hemisphere. Until the end of the Ordovician Period the area of the present-day Estonia was presumably a shallow sea located south of the equator. Back then, life was existent only in the sea and the shallow sea had the highest species diversity. In the early Cambrian Period fast evolvement of multi-celled organisms began. This burst is known as a Cambrian explosion. Consequently, the limestone strata contain plenty of fossils such as the trilobites, annelids, snails and others. The oil shale from the Ordovician Kukruse formation alone holds more than 500 fossil species. The Silurian rocks contain corals and stromatopores abundant in the warm Silurian sea. For hikers interested in geology, the stratified escarpments of the North-Estonian Klint serve as a book of the Earth’s history. One can find large amount of various fossils mentioned above in limestone plates. Geological formations behind the Valaste Waterfall expose 530 years of the Earth’s history.

WATERFALLS A number of rivers and streams descending from the escarpment form waterfalls and cascades. Water has cut steep canyons into the river valleys downstream from the waterfalls. Most of the waterfalls are 3–8 metres high. Narva Falls, Jägala Falls and Keila Falls are the largest ones. However, Narva Falls is mostly dry due to the hydroelectric power plant. The highest waterfall (30,5 m) in Estonia is located at Valaste near Ontika Cliff. The largest cascade is on Treppoja stream, where water descends from six small escarpments. Vasaristi Cascade in Lahemaa National Park is regarded as one of the most scenic waterfalls.

WATERFALLS 29 waterfalls with the height of at least one metre fall from the NorthEstonian coastal cliff. Six of them (Keila, Vääna, Jägala, Nõmmeveski, Joaveski, and Narva waterfalls) are on rivers, the volume flow rate of which is over one cubic metre per second, the rest of them are on water bodies with a smaller volume flow rate. The highest waterfall is Valaste waterfall (30.5 metres), situated in the Ida-Virumaa county.

KARST In the North-Estonian limestone plateau the precipitation water infiltrates through thin soil layer and cracks in limestone bedrock, dissolving the limestone and enlarging its passageways. Karst channels can be multi-storeyed. Under the cavities near the surface there are even larger caves usually filled with water. When karst cave ceilings fall down, superficial karst formations are formed including shallow holes, karrens, sinkholes and dry riverbeds. In high-water periods this kind of natural drainage is not sufficient to drain off the precipitation water, thus karst cavities become filled with water. Rivers and streams may disappear underground and appear again in another place in karst areas. The Tuhala Witchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Well in Tuhala karst area in Harju County is a popular sight for its ability to flow over in high-water periods. The flow rate of the well is up to 100 l/sec. Pandivere Upland is the most karstified region in Estonia, however the most prominent and large karst areas (Kostivere, Tuhala, Kuimetsa, Pae) are situated in Harju County. Other notably large karst areas include Savalduma karst field in Pandivere Upland and Uhaku karst field on Viru Plateau. There are hundreds of large karst springs on limestone plateaus in Estonia. The most numerous and water-rich springs are found in Pandivere Upland.

RIVERS On the eastern border with Russia the largest Estonian river in terms of discharge volume flows into the Gulf of Finland. Other rivers of North-Estonia are rather small. Most of them form canyons, waterfalls and cascades when reaching the edge of the limestone plateau. Atlantic salmon, sea trout, and river lamprey come to spawn in many of these rivers. Juvenile salmons are reintroduced to populate these rivers from the Põlula Fish Farm in Virumaa region. A special conservation area has been established on the lower reaches of the Vasalemma River (54, 3 km) where river lamprey, Atlantic salmon, bullhead, and spined loach are found. Freshwater invertebrates are represented by the dragonfly Ophiogomphus cecilia and thick shelled river mussel. Mammal species are represented by European otter in the Vasalemma River. Lümandu Landscape Reserve lies near the headspring of the river. The Keila River (116 km) is the longest river among the rivers of the watershed of the Gulf of Finland. The last five kilometres on the lower reaches of the river have the highest slope. This is the section where the river breaks through the North-Estonian Klint, forming a 6.1-metre-high waterfall on the escarpment of 60–70 metres in length in the picturesque Keila-Joa park. Keila Falls blocks further upstream movement of migratory fish. Downstream of the waterfall Atlantic salmon, sea trout, and vimba bream come to spawn. The Pirita River (105 km) is one of the longest rivers in Harju County. It flows into Tallinn Bay. The river traverses through marshy forests on its upper reaches while on its lower course it meanders in a scenic valley that enjoys the conservation status between the Narva road and Pirita Convent. Several springs feed the Pirita River. Of these the Saula Siniallikad Springs by the Tallinn–Tartu highway some 30 km away from Tallinn are worth mentioning due to their aesthetic value and clear water. Atlantic salmon and sea trout spawn in the Pirita River. Also brook trout can be found in the Pirita River. After the Narva River, the second largest by the catchment area and discharge volume is the Jägala River (97 km) in the Estonian watershed of the Gulf of Finland. The river starts at the western part of Pandivere Upland. On the Jägala River the highest waterfall (8 m) in Estonia is situated 4.3 km upstream from the river mouth. Jägala Falls forms a barrier for fish moving into the spawning grounds and thus, the river is not a popular fishing destination. The Valgejõgi River is the largest and the longest (85 km) in Lahemaa National Park. It springs from Lake Porkuni in Pandivere Upland and flows through North-Kõrvemaa into Hara Bay at Loksa. There is a waterfall and dam on the river at Nõmmeveski, 19 km upstream of the river mouth. Hydroelectric power plant was built here in

RIVER LAMPREY The river lamprey which is a rare species in Europe comes to spawn from the sea into many Estonian rivers. In North-Estonia, in the River Narva, river lampreys are caught with traditional cone-shaped meshes, where river lampreys come to rest in the fast flowing river.

1924. The power plant suffered damages during a fire in 1964 and is in ruins until nowadays. Another hydroelectric power plant operated on the river at Kotka, 9 km from the river mouth. The Loobu River (62 km), known for its beautiful Joaveski cascade, springs from Pandivere Upland and flows through Lahemaa National Park into Eru Bay. The Purtse River (51 km) is the richest river in rapids in North-Estonia. On its lower course it runs in a deep canyon valley where water level may rise promptly during high-water periods. The river is a popular destination for water hiking in springtime. Populations of both Atlantic salmon and sea trout successfully reproduce in the Purtse River. The Narva River forms border between Estonia and Russia. The river is 77 km long. It is the largest river in Estonia in terms of its flow rate, exceeding the discharge volume of all other Estonian rivers altogether four times. Lake Peipsi at the source of the Narva River feeds the river with high amounts of water. The slope of the river is 30 metres, being the highest at the rapids of Omuti and at the waterfall in the city of Narva. The hydroelectric power plant on the Russian side of the river diverts water into a new channel and thus, the waterfall and the downstream canyon remain dry most of the time. As a result of damming, a water reservoir, the so-called Narva Sea, has been formed, being the third largest lake in Estonia. The river section downstream of the road bridge between Estonia and Russia is navigable. Fishing and boating is possible anywhere on the river. European sturgeon, once the main fish caught from the river, is depicted on the municipal coat of arms of Narva. Nowadays, the most famous among the fish of the Narva River is river lamprey. Every autumn, it is caught in large quantities with special cone-shaped devices. (See map on page 34)

EUROPEAN CRAYFISH The european crayfish has been forced to withdraw from many neighbouring countries due to similar alien species, but in the inland waters of Estonia this favourite of all gourmans still perdures. Catching european crayfish is part of the romantic scenes of Estonian August nights. Still, the catching is allowed only based on a limited number of permits issued.

LAKES Lakes are not abundant in North-Estonia. In the western part of the region the most valued for recreation purposes is Lake Tänavjärv with sandy bottom and clear water in the northern part of the Läänemaa Suursoo (Läänemaa Great Swamp). Lake Harku in the western part of Tallinn and Lake Maardu east of Tallinn are the most visited open-air swimming places among the city dwellers and thus suffer from overpopulation. Lake Ülemiste south of the city next to Tallinn Airport provides the capital city with drinking water already since the 14th century and is closed to public access. Lake Kahala at the western edge of Lahemaa National Park is a shallow nutrient-rich lake subject to gradual overgrowth. There is also a scenic Lake Käsmu on the Käsmu Peninsula in Lahemaa. Lake Porkuni in Pandivere Upland is interesting for its seasonal variability caused by karst conditions. During high water periods in spring the lake grows larger and several small temporary lakes are created alongside the main lake. Lake Porkuni is famous also for its floating islands that are usually anchored. Lake Uljaste northeast of Rakvere is surrounded by Uljaste Bog in west and south, while in north and east it is fringed by Uljaste esker consisting mostly of gravelly sand. The northern part of the esker is covered by a beautiful coniferous forest. Owing to its scenic surroundings, Lake Uljaste is popular among holidaymakers. In Alutaguse region an interesting group of 40 picturesque lakes is situated in the area of about 30 km². Most of the lakes lie on the former Kurtna heathland that is overgrown by now. Oil shale mining in the region has worsened the ecological quality of lakes, however, many of Kurtna Lakes still have good water quality. Swimming and camping sites have been established on the shore of several lakes. North-Estonia is home to the most beautiful beaches of Lake Peipsi, stretching from Tammispää village to Vasknarva village on the northern shore of the lake. The dunes of Järvevälja and Smolnitsa lie here and one can walk on the so-called singing sand. Elongate sand dunes interchange with bogs and mires in the landscape. This recreation area is abundant with rivers and offers good options for canoeing and other paddle sports.

LAKE PEIPSI Lake Peipsi together with Lake Pihkva and Lammijärv is the fifth largest lake in Europe. Of the 3555 km² of Lake Peipsi 44% belongs to Estonia, the rest is on the Russian territory. The most beautiful sandy beaches are on the northern coast of Lake Peipsi.

FORESTS AND MIRES

Forests cover a large part of North-Estonia. Pine forest is the dominant forest type. In coastal areas, including on dunes, heath forests occur, while in marshy areas pine forests are found. Alutaguse region in North-East Estonia is the largest wild forest area in Estonia. It is known for being a habitat for the rare Siberian flying squirrel and boasting abundant brown bear population. Lahemaa and Kõrvemaa comprise vast areas of woods and bogs that join into a wide and lengthy forest zone stretching from North-East Estonia to the border with Latvia in the south-west. In northwestern part of the country there are extensive woods and mires in NõvaVihterpalu region, where forest fires occur time and again due to severe draught during summer months. Large forest fires have taken place here, resulting in formation of specific forest communities. Spruce forests as well as mixed spruce stands are widespread in Lääne-Viru County, Rapla County and Järva County. All these four regions mentioned above are rich in mires. An extensive Läänemaa Suursoo (Great Swamp) of around 100 km² and Leidissoo Mire are located in Nõva-Vihterpalu region. In Rapla County there are plenty of minerotrophic mires and bogs, the most famous of these being Tõrasoo Mire, Mahtra Bog and Linnuraba Bog. Also the mires of Viirika, Keava, Mukre, and Nõlvasoo are worth visiting. Mires are abundant also in Järva County, both within and outside Kõrvemaa region. The largest wetlands here are Koitjärve Bog, Kõnnu Suursoo Mire, and Kakerdaja Bog. Laukasoo Mire, Viru Bog and Pudisoo Mire are the largest ones among the mires of Lahemaa National Park. Puhatu Mire together with Agusalu Mire in Alutaguse region in Ida-Viru County constitutes one of the biggest mire CHANTARELLE complexes of Estonia. The bogs Picking mushrooms is one of typical Estonian of Sirtsi and Muraka are also rituals at the end of summer, and in autumn. notably large. The most passionate mushroom pickers may Large expanses of Northhave tens of species in their baskets. The chantaEstonian forests and mires atrelle is definitely a favourite species that nobody tract hordes of nature tourists.

will despise. Estonian chantarelles can be found in the markets of many countries, but the most pleasant way to have them is to pick them yourself in the pine forests of northern Estonia.

PLANT COMMUNITIES The most distinctive plant communities of North-Estonia are the klint forests and alvars, both associated with limestone. Klint forests grow on the talus of the klint escarpment and usually form a belt of deciduous forest 50–150 metres in width. Human activities have always been limited in these hardly accessible locations with very fertile soil and thus, unique forest communities of extremely high species diversity have evolved. Wych elm, ash, small-leaved lime and Norway maple are the dominant tree species in klint forest. One of the character plants of klint forest is the perennial honesty that is very rare elsewhere. Klint forests are the most widespread in the klint sections of Virumaa region. Alvars are rare communities occurring on flat limestone bedrock with very shallow soil. Extreme habitat conditions prevail on alvars. The soil may dry out completely in spring while in winter, the severe cold may harm plant roots. Occasionally, alvars may also be subject to flooding in spring. Despite harsh environment, alvars boast highly diverse and species-rich flora. Among other calcareous plants there are various orchids that also appear in plenty in spring fens on the foot of Pandivere Upland. Sparse worldwide are shrubby cinquefoil alvars in Vääna area in the northwestern part of Estonia. This area is the only place where shrubby cinquefoil grows in Estonia. Another unique community, the crowberry heath, can only be found on few islands of the Gulf of Finland and on the northern mainland coast.

ALVARS Alvars (specific plant communities) are most spread on the thin layers of earth on limestone cliffs in NorthEstonia. In Europe alvars exist only in Sweden besides Estonia. The living conditions on alvars are drastically hard, yet these are very species-rich communities, including several species not growing anywhere else.

FAUNA

Owing to high share of forested areas in North-Estonia lots of big mammals are found in the region. Elk, as well WHITE-BACKED as wild boar and roe deer are abundant in Vihterpalu-N천WOODPECKER va, K천rvemaa, Lahemaa and Alutaguse regions. Also The white-backed woodpecker brown bear, grey wolf and lynx can be encountered here. that has practically disapBrown bear is particularly abundant in the forests of Alpeared from the Scandinavian utaguse. Alutaguse is also the main area where Siberian intensively cultivated forests is flying squirrel is present in Estonia. still quite safe in the Estonian In large forest areas white-tailed eagle, golden eagle, wet mixed forests. The tapping lesser spotted eagle, and osprey nest. Ural owl, Eurasian of woodpeckers in the quiet pygmy owl, and boreal owl are quite common, although forest is always a nice surprise their population may suffer from cold and snow in harsh for a nature tourist. winters. Among the woodpeckers the three-toed woodpecker, black woodpecker, grey-headed woodpecker and white-backed woodpecker are found in North-Estonian coniferous forests. There is also quite a high number of black grouse, western capercaillie and hazel grouse. North-Estonian islands and islets have rich bird fauna. Arctic tern, common tern, black-headed gull, common gull, great black-backed gull, and tufted duck nest on small islets close to the shore. European herring gull, common eider, velvet scoter, and red-breasted merganser are common on more distant islets. On islands of larger size the abundance of birds is determined by the presence of breeding red fox in spring. Among the more rare sea birds some couples of razorbill nest on the islands of the Gulf of Finland. The cliff of the Pakri Peninsula is the only place to see the nesting colony of black guillemot in Estonia. April is the best time for bird watching in the forests of North-Estonia while May is the best time for watching migratory waterfowl on the coast. Late August and September offer good opportunities for autumn bird watching.

BROWN BEAR There are around 800 brown bears in Estonia. This is a surprisingly big number for a small country. Every year hunters are allowed to kill 20-30 bears. Usually these are bears who have taken a too big interest in the life of human beings. Mostly bears live in the north-eastern part of Estonia.

ALUTAGUSE REGION Alutaguse is the most extensive forest area in Estonia occupying almost the whole of Northeast-Estonia. Mysterious aura is attached to this wild region. Expanses of mires here are so vast that only few have had a chance to peek into their very core. On the bog islands there are patches of truly pristine forests where rare willow ptarmigan and jack snipe are found. The area also hosts the Siberian flying squirrel. No other region in Estonia is home to so many brown bears. Other common representatives of fauna in the region include western capercaillie, white-tailed eagle, golden eagle, elk, wolf, lynx, European otter and others. Metaphorically speaking, this is the Estonian taiga with a slight Middle European accent owing to the presence of deciduous woods on bog islands. The main part of Alutaguse is a tough area for all those nature tourists, who are willing to face harder conditions to have a real nature experience. If you wander around in Alutaguse, keep your senses always alert to encounters with extraordinary, be it brown bear or flying squirrel or something even more astonishing. Sometimes, you may cross the path of species typical to areas east and north of Estonia, such as great grey owl, Siberian jay, rustic bunting, and wolverine. Kurtna kame field is the area where 40 lakes are bunched together within the area of about 30 km². Lake Jõuga and Kõnnu Lakes are situated in the Iisaku-Jõuga-Illuka esker range. The northern shores of Lake Peipsi are bordered by continuous belt of Estonia’s most impressive mainland dunes. Dunes are also found north of Lake Peipsi on old beach ridges and on elongate glacial formations called grivas. Dunes stretch northward from the lakeshores up to Kurtna kame field.

FLYING SQUIRREL Estonia is one of the rare countries in Europe where the taiga habitant flying squirrel lives. Few people have seen this exotic nocturnal animal. The biggest chance to encounter a flying squirrel is in the old mixed forests of the Ida-Virumaa county, in the part called Alutaguse.

PANDIVERE UPLAND Pandivere Upland is situated between the landscape regions of Alutaguse and Kõrvemaa. Its altitude varies between 80 m on the foothill and 166 m on the highest peak Emumägi. The latter is also the highest point in North-Estonia. Unlike the South-Estonian heights heaped up by the glaciers, Pandivere Upland was a bedrock elevation long before the Ice Age. Erosion by ice sheets prevailed in the area, but some elevated landforms are also found here. Among these the most well known are Ebavere Hill (146 m), Kellavere Hill (156 m), Vallimägi Hill of Rakvere and the Porkuni-Neeruti Hills. The shallow soil layer of the area allows precipitation water to infiltrate into the underlying limestone joints. Water springs out on the foothill of Pandivere Upland, forming a circle of springs around the upland. This circle includes the most scenic and water-rich springs in Estonia, including the springs of NorraOostriku, Varangu, Aravate, Lavi, Kihme, Jõepere, Rahkla and others. Pandivere Upland is an important drainage basin. Almost one third of all Estonian rivers begin here. Among these there are the Pärnu River, the Põltsamaa River, the Pedja River, the Jägala River, the Loobu River, the Kunda River, and the Valgejõgi River. On the foothill of the upland there are many lakes rich in springs. The most widely known is the group of Äntu Lakes consisting of seven lakes. Lake Sinijärv of Äntu is popular among those exercising underwater sports and fishing. It is however unsafe to swim in Äntu Lakes because of cold water caused by numerous springs. Another attractive lake is Lake Porkuni with its floating islands. Some spring-fed calcareous fens can be found in Pandivere Upland. Lime-loving plants including the orchids like this habitat type. As typical of limestone areas, karst formations are widespread in Pandivere Upland. Common karst features include swallow holes, i.e. the funnel-shaped sinkholes in the limestone rock into which surface water disappears. In addition, subterranean rivers and small ephemeral lakes are found here. These lakes abounding in water during spring attract geese and swans to rest here on their migration route. Assamalla floodplain in Lääne-Viru County is one of the most bird-rich areas of this kind. Pandivere water protection area has been established to protect the springs, rivers and groundwater system of this vulnerable area. Local municipalities have joined together to establish and develop the theme park called Lime State on the Spring of Springs (Pandivere Paeriik Allikate Allikal). Besides the Porkuni Limestone Museum many other sights associated with lime and limestone are found here.

WHITE STORK Nests of white storks on top of chimneys and electric posts are landmarks that inform nature tourists about their arrival to Estonia. About 3000 – 4000 couples of them inhabit Estonia, but they do not nest for example in Finland.

KÕRVEMAA REGION In this wild area of vast forests and mires many toponyms ending with suffix -vere are used. Etymologically, derived from the old meaning of kõrb, -vere originally means extensive unpopulated wilderness area. Although lying on lowland, Kõrvemaa has a varied relief owing to former glacial activity. Eskers deposited in the streambeds of glacial melt water, kames comprising the former ice deposits as well as lakes marking the location of the last halting continental ice sheets are the characteristic landforms of Kõrvemaa. Higher landforms hinder the drainage resulting in formation of mires between the eskers. Mire landscapes and biota can be observed when walking along eskers. Here and there, bog islands are found where mire has been buried under the elevated terrain. The Tallinn–Tapa railroad splits Kõrvemaa into two parts – North-Kõrvemaa and South-Kõrvemaa. The forests of the former adjoin the borders of Lahemaa National Park. This is the former Soviet military polygon; therefore the area is sparsely populated thus far. Kõrvemaa abounds with lakes. Many of these are oligotrophic clear-water lakes different of nutrient-rich lakes typical of Estonia. There are also brown-water lakes that receive their water from surrounding bogs. Often lakes form clusters. The largest lake of Kõrvemaa is Lake Pikkjärv. Six forest lakes make up a compact group of Jussi Lakes. What is curious about Jussi Lakes is that they, found side by side in one area, have highly varying water hardness. Lake Paukjärv with its clear greenish water and curving shoreline is the most beloved lake in North-Kõrvemaa. At Nelijärve, an esker of more than 10 km in length begins. In the nearby landscape there are seven lakes designating the location of ice shelves of the glaciation period. The toponym Nelijärve (’Four Lakes’) derives from the fact that Nelijärve Hill overlooks four lakes all at once. Currently the human population of Kõrvemaa is small. However, traces of former human settlement such as old farmhouses and domestic trees can be encountered in the woods. One can also run into the former winter roads in bogs. The present birch stands indicate there may have been arable land once. On the hills of Kõrvemaa heath forests prevail. An interesting plant community has formed on Jussi heath as a result of forest fires and shooting range activities by the Soviet Army. Today the heath enjoys conservation status and management efforts have been made to prevent this extensive heathland unique in Estonia from becoming overgrown with brushwood.

LYNX Estonian hunting trophies have won several prizes at the world hunting exhibitions. Our lynx is considered the most dashing. The most highly valued fur of lynx comes from Estonia, and the skull of lynx from Estonia was awarded the second place.

FOREST Estonia holds the fifth place in Europe considering the percentage of forest per territory (in Estonia a bit over 50%). Especially the northern part is rich in forests, with three wide forested areas, passing through which by foot takes several days. These areas are called Alutaguse, Kõrvemaa-Lahemaa and Vihterpalu-Nõva forests. Mires cover almost half of the area of North-Kõrvemaa while they are less abundant in South-Kõrvemaa. The largest mires are Koitjärve Bog and Kõnnu Suursoo Mire in the northern part and Kakerdaja Bog in the southern part. There are many rivers in Kõrvemaa. The Tarvasjõgi River, the Jänijõgi River and the Liivoja Stream in SouthKõrvemaa are the tributaries of the Jägala River. In North-Kõrvemaa the largest rivers are the Soodla River and the Valgejõgi River. Nature tourists can enjoy the whoops of owl during night time in spring in the forests of Kõrvemaa. Cranes’ whooping and grouses’ lekking gurgle sound all over the mires in the morning. On bog islands one can run into amazing courtship ceremony of Western capercaillie in early hours of the morning.

NATURE WATCHING AREAS IN NORTH ESTONIA

WATER TOURS

F I

O F

F G U L

Pärispea peninsula Prangli Aegna

Naissaar Osmussaar

Rannaküla

Dirhami

Muraste

Tabasalu Harku

Pirgu

L Ä Ä N E Piirsalu M A A Ellamaa Risti

! .

Märjamaa

Martna Liivi

Vigala

Pilkuse

Kirbla

LIHULA

Vatla

Kivi-Vigala

Avaste

Lihula

Oidrema Lõpe

Lake Ermistu

Purku

! .

Mõisaküla

! .

Jõõpre Põhara Nurme

Audru

! .

Tori

Urge

Sauga

! .

Kõima

Selja

Suigu

Pulli

Seljametsa

Pilistvere

Koksvere Kõo

Esk

Võisi

Navesti ti Kaansoo es

v Na

Soomaa

Taali

SINDI

Paikuse

Jõesuu

Taadikvere

Kabala

VÕHMA

Suurejõe

Vihtra Piistaoja

Imavere

Villevere

rn Pä

Vändra

Käsukonn

Oisu Taikse! .

Põikva

Sõra

Koigi

Türi-Alliku

Kärevere

! .

Peetri

Sargvere

PAIDE

Türi

Laupa

Vaki Pärnjõe

Kirna

Särevere !.

Eidapere

Tootsi

Are

TÜRI

! .

Kadjaste

Niidu

! .

Käru

Tarbja

Väätsa !.

Iidva

Viisu

Eivere

Väätsa

RoosnaAlliku

J Ä R V A M A A Lõõla

Mukri

Kergu

Anna

Laukesoo

Kõnnumaa

Lokuta

Seidla

Kaalepi ! .

Aela

Kaisma

Pärnu-Jaagupi Halinga

Männikuste

Kaiu

! . Lelle

Taarikõnnu

Libatse

Lavassaare

! .

Kehtna

Järvakandi

Enge

Ahaste NätsiVõlla

Ingliste

! . ! .

Tõrasoo Velis e

Velise

Ardu

Kuimetsa

Keava

! .

P Ä R N U M A A

Tõusi

Lake Tõhela

Valgu

Vahenurme

Nedrema

Varbla

RaikOrgita Tamme küla Mõisamaa Põlma

Kesu

Koonga

! .

Kaerepere

Konuvere

Vana-Vigala

KäntuKastja

Valtu

R A P L A M A A

Teenuse

Üdruma

õmsi Tuhu

Kuusiku

Vaimõisa Jalase

Sipa

Kullamaa

Tuudi

! .

Juuru

Laukna

Marimetsa

Hagudi !. Alu Kodila !

RAPLA

MarimetsaÕmma

Habaja

Atla

Linnuraba

Varbola

! .

Palivere

Turba Lehetu

Koluvere

Ohepal

! .

idissoo

Jõõdre

! .

Jä

Läänemaa Suursoo

Taebla

Kuusalu

Harju-Risti

! .

i õg ej lg Va

! .

Vääna

! .

Suur-Pakri

Linnamäe

! .

Jägala

! .

Palms

Kolga !.

Kiiu

Jägala-Joa

Vihasoo

Lagedi !. Kostivere Järsi Haljava Anija Lohusalu Keila-Joa Pajupea Lilli Assaku !. ! . ! . Põhja! . Karja- Laagri !. Kloogaranna Ülejõe Jüri Aruküla Raasiku Kõrvemaa Kangru !. KEILA !. küla Jälgimäe ! Paraspõllu KEHRA . Luige Aegviidu ! . Klooga Lehtmetsa Vaida Saku !. SAUE TAPA Lehola Kiili Nabala !. Madise Lehtse!. Pikva Ämari!. H A R Aruvalla J U M A A Alavere Jäneda Jootm Ääsmäe ! . Mägede ! . Vasalemma Padise ! Kose-Uuemõisa . Tuhala Kiisa Kurtna Laitse Kõrvemaa Rummu ! . ! . Am Ruila Käravete !. ! . ! . Ravila Prillimäe ! . Kohila Oru Kohatu ! Kaasiku Kose . Albu Järva- ! . Aravete Paunküla Haiba Loone Hageri Madise reservoir Järlepa Riisipere!.

PALDISKI

Vidruka

Rebala

! . Loo

! .

Nõva

MAARDU

Äigrumäe

Rannamõisa

Valkla

LOKSA Võsu

Kolga-Aabla Kolgaküla

Neeme Kaberneeme

HaabTALLINNA neeme ! . BAY ! .Viimsi

TALLINN

Nõva

Kolga lahe

Kä

Põõsaspea cape

Naissaare

Rohuneeme

Viinistu

Pärispea Suurpea

Juminda peninsula

Lah Natio

Soomaa National Park

Ängi

! .

Olustvere

Parika

SUURE-JAANI Sürgavere

V I L J A N SaareD I M A Vastemõisa

Rau

dna

peedi

Pärsti

VILJANDI

Puiatu

Vana-Võidu ! .

Uusna

Viiratsi

N L A N D

Uhtju

hemaa onal Park

Käsmu Altja

u !.

Letipea

Aaspere

Viitna Ama

Haljala Veltsi

Vohnja Hulja

Kadrina

Aseri

Erra

! .

Ulvi

! .

Varja

JÕHVI Kohtla- !. Tammiku Nõmme

PÜSSI

KIVIÕLI

Maidla Uniküla

Soonurme

Pajusti !. Vinni Viru-Jaagupi

Udriku Neeruti Moe

! .

Lasila

Kadila

Porkuni

mbla TAMSALU ! . Sääse Roosna

Kiltsi

Vajangu

Vao

Küti

L Ä Ä N E!. -

Lipu Mäetaguse

Tudu ! .

Tudusoo

! . Väike-Maarja

Triigi

! .

Avanduse

Järva-Jaani

! .

Liigvalla

Rahkla Moora

Laekvere Simuna

Paasvere Venevere

Endla

andu Päinurme

Vaimastvere Kurista

! .

Adavere

iku

Siimusti

Lustivere

PÕLTSAMAA ! .

Kamari

! .

Kuremaa

! . ! .

Põ

lts

Painküla

Saduküla Kaarepere

Leie

Valma

Pikknurme ! .

Visusti

Alam-Pedja

Kääpa

Puhja !.

L A K E P E I P S I

OUDOVA

Äksi

Kokora

Vedu

Vara

Märja

! .

Tõrvandi!.

Lohkva

Water tours

KALLASTE

Pala

Harbour

Nina ! .

Padakõrve

Vahi !. Kõrveküla ! .

Kärevere

Nõgiaru

Plant watching

Mammal watching

Koosa

Protected area ! . Kolkja

County boundary

! . Kasepää ! .

Varnja

T A R T U M A A Ilmatsalu!.

LEGEND

Bird watching ! . GDOV

Metsakivi

Lähte !.Vasula

Ulila Rämsi ! .

Vasknarva

Rannapungerja

Alatskivi

MaarjaMagdaleena

Tabivere !.

Laeva

Struuga

Alajõe Remniku

Lohusuu

Raja Kükita Tiheda Kasepää

Kääpa

Palamuse

! .

Uusküla

Agusalu

Voore

Luua

SLANTSÕ !.

Kuningaküla

Metsaküla

! .

Meleski Ema jõ g

LAKE VÕRTS-

Torma

J Õ G E V A Vooremaa M A A

Puurmani

! .

Laiuse

! .

Kolga-Jaani

! .

JÕGEVA

Kalana

Pisisaare

Jõgeva

Kauksi

MUSTVEE

Sadala Kõnnu Vaiatu

Puhatu

Tammispää

Tähkvere

ja Ped

Lake Endla

Piilsi

Ulvi ! .

Kärde

! .

Emumägi (166m)

Ervita

Müüsleri

Käru

Salla

Sälliku

Avinurme

! .

Rakke

Vao

Tudulinna

Narva reservoir

! . Iisaku

Muuga

! .

NARVA

Kuremäe

Jõuga

Oonurme Muraka

! .

Koeru !.

! .

Seli

V I R U M A A

! .

SIRGALA

I D A - V I R U M A A

Roela

Pandivere

VIIVIKONNA

Olgina ! . Sinimäe Soldina

Kahula Kurtna Kiikla Pagari Kurtna Illuka

Oandu Sirtsi

SILLAMÄE

Valaste ! . ! . Voka Toila Järve Pühajõe Kukruse Konju Vaivara Edise

Lüganuse

! .

NARVAJÕESUU

Saka

Purtse Aa

! .

Sõmeru

RAKVERE

Lepna !.

Rannu

Viru-Kabala Sonda

! . ! .

! .

Aseri

Sämi

Uhtna !.

Näpi

! .

Viru-Nigula !.

Essu Ubja

! .

KOHTLAJÄRVE

KUNDA

Toolse

Narva

Sagadi Vihula Võsupere

N A R VA B AY

Railway 1:750 000

20km

Kavastu

Luunja ! .

TARTU

Võõpste Emajõe-

Suursoo

Melliste

LAHEMAA NATIONAL PARK Lahemaa National Park, established in 1971, is the oldest national park in Estonia. It was also the first national park founded in the Soviet Union. Lahemaa has diverse landscapes of great scenic value. For many years Lahemaa has been promoted as a model area of Estonia to represent the distinctive character of Estonian nature and cultural heritage. The wide northeast-southwest directional forest zone that splits Estonia into two major landscape regions arrives at the sea in Lahemaa. Forests occupy more than two thirds of the territory of Lahemaa. Along the curvy coastline of Lahemaa, peninsulas alternate with bays and stony headlands stretch towards the sea. Further off the coast few small islands and islets reach out of the sea. Numerous erratic boulders lie on the shore, but also sandy beaches with good swimming opportunities are found. The North-Estonian Klint is retreated from the sea in Lahemaa. Small clear-water rivers descending from the former coastal cliffs form waterfalls and rapids; the most well known of which are Nõmmeveski Waterfall on the Valgejõgi River and Joaveski Cascade on the Loobu River. Among the forests of Lahemaa species-poor forest types like heath forests and pine bogs predominate. Also, narrow riparian stripes of alluvial forests, patches of nemoral deciduous forests on klint slopes and wooded mires on the klint foot, and spruce stands are found. The largest mires are Laukasoo Bog, Viru Bog, Vanasilla Bog and Pudisoo Mire located between former coastal ridges. There are also meadows of high species diversity and few alvars in Lahemaa. Among the rare species found in Lahemaa, perennial honesty growing on the talus of the klint is the most well known. Also, Arctic raspberry and sea pea have been recorded in Lahemaa. Forests of Lahemaa are rich in big mammals such as elk, wild boar, roe deer, and beaver. Also brown bear, wolf, and lynx are found. The only remaining population of freshwater pearl mussel resides in the Pärlijõgi River. Both the forest bird fauna and waterfowl fauna are rich in Lahemaa. The coast provides good stopping sites for hundreds of thousands of migrating waterfowl, especially for long-tailed duck, scoters, and divers. In Lahemaa National Park both the natural as well as cultural heritage are highly esteemed. Traditional fishing villages, ancient settlements and burial sites as well as the German-Baltic manor complexes are valuable historical landmarks. Palmse manor is the centre of the national park. Lahemaa Visitor and Information Centre is located in Palmse. Many local enterprises provide assistance in organizing hiking tours in Lahemaa. Visitors may choose between walking, biking, horse-riding, canoeing, and driving. About ten marked hiking trails with the average length of 3–5 km have been established.

ELK Once a very numerous population of elks has nowadays decreased, but this proud animal still cannot be considered rare in Estonia. The most likely time to meet elks is at dusk, when they come out of forests to feed on plains.

VIHTERPALU-NÕVA REGION

Vihterpalu-Nõva region in the northwest corner of Estonia is a vast wilderness area with very low population density. Kilometres of nice sandy beaches washed by high waves lie here. These beaches are suitable for windsurfing. Peraküla beach is well known for its „singing“ sands. One can find shelter from the wind in old pine forest hemming in the coast. These protected pine stands grow on former dunes. Behind the dunes there are several small coastal lakes and mires. Further towards the mainland mires expand over vast areas forming mire complexes like Läänemaa Suursoo Mire and Leidissoo Mire. In spring and early summer, when the sea is still cold, two large lakes – Lake Tänavjärv and Lake Vekijärv – with sandy bottom attract holiday-makers and fishermen. Signs of extensive forest fires can be seen nearby. Sometimes, the forest fire site may offer positive surprises to those keen on nature. For instance, the occurrences of short-toed snake eagle are the highest in Estonia. Large amounts of morels can be found on the burnt forest substrate in spring. Bilberries and cowberries grow in abundance here. One can hear the drumming sounds of grouse and meet capercaillie pecking on roads in springtime. Forest expanses of Nõva-Vihterpalu region are favourable to elk, wild boar, wolf, and lynx. Several recreation areas have been established in Nõva Landscape Reserve and by Lake Veskijärv.

CAPERCAILLIE The capercaillie, the symbol bird on the hunters’ coat of arms has become rarer and is not anymore among the game birds. This cautious bird lives its secret life in the biggest pine forests and marshes. In the vast forest areas of North-Estonia the capercaillie still feels itself at home.

PAKRI PENINSULA AND ISLANDS Pakri cliff at the end of the Pakri cape is unique. The cliff is not as high as it is at Ontika (56 m), mounding to 24 metres, but this is the only place on the Estonian mainland coast where the cliff rises directly from the sea. Therefore, the cliff is exposed to constant coastal erosion. Pakri Landscape Reserve has been established on the Pakri Peninsula to protect this unique area, including its species-rich alvar communities growing on the limestone plateau and nesting habitat of a small population of black guillemot not found anywhere else in Estonia. The landscape reserve also encompasses Pakri Islands – Suur-Pakri and Väike-Pakri. Boat trips to Pakri Islands are organized. Visitors should be cautious while walking near coastal cliff due to the risk of cliff collapses.

TÜRISALU LANDSCAPE RESERVE Türisalu cliff forms a part of Türisalu Landscape Reserve stretching from Türisalu cliff to the mouth of the Keila River. The landscape reserve is aimed at protecting the escarpment and unique calcareous plant communities growing on the top of the escarpment. Visitors can enjoy splendid views from the cliff and of the Keila River. This is the only habitat of shrubby cinquefoil in Estonia. Even more expressive alvars are found in the nearby Vääna Landscape Reserve.

SAKA-ONTIKA CLIFF Ontika cliff is the most famous and impressive klint section in Ida-Viru County. It comprises a 20-km-long uninterrupted escarpment with its 8-km-long central part lying on the Saka-Ontika-Toila klint plateau. For those interested in limestone geology this is a must-see place. On the talus of the escarpment, a 50–200 metre wide belt of klint forest has formed constituted mainly of elms, ashes, and grey alders.

NORTHERN COAST OF LAKE PEIPSI Recreation area along the northern coast of Lake Peipsi extends from Tammispää village to Vasknarva village in IdaViru County. Impressive sand dunes of Järvevälja and Smolnitsa are located on the coast. Along the shore the socalled singing sands can be found. A number of designated campgrounds and bonfire sites have been set up here. Extensive Alutaguse wilderness area, Agusalu Mire, Lakes of Kurtna and Struuga Nature Reserve along the Narva River lie north of the coast of Lake Peipsi.

JALASE VILLAGE

Jalase Landscape Reserve aims to preserve the traditional village landscape. Historical landscape pattern and road network as well as historical buildings are maintained in the reserve, the only one of its kind in Estonia. In Jalase one can encounter ancient cult stones, stone barrows, fields, and sacral groves. The sights can be observed on the hiking trail. Quite a number of small mires lie hidden between the alvar forests, fields and limestone plateaus. The flora of the landscape reserve has high species diversity. Over twenty species of orchids are found here.

KOHTLA MINING PARK MUSEUM Kohtla Mining Museum offers tours in the former underground oil shale mine and makes the visitor acquainted with the underground secrets and oil shale geology. It may be kind of shocking for the visitor to become aware of the harsh and hazardous work of the Soviet miner and environmental problems associated with excessive oil-shale mining.

PORKUNI LIMESTONE MUSEUM Porkuni Stronghold, built in 1479, was destroyed during the Livonian war in the 16th century. Only the gate tower was preserved. The tower, belonging to Porkuni manor, was repaired by its 500th anniversary. An exhibition introducing limestone, the Estonian national rock, was opened in the tower in 1992. The five-story tower displays an in-depth overview of limestone. The exhibition aims to present the genesis, distribution, fossils and the use of limestone. The museum holds rich collection of limestone samples found all over Estonia. Nice views of Lake Porkuni, manor complex and the neighbourhood can be seen from the platform on the tower top. Visitors are allowed to inspect and touch the fossils.

PROTECTED AREAS Three types of protected areas are distinguished in Estonia – national parks, nature reserves and landscape reserves. The objectives of national parks include the protection of both, biota and abiotic nature as well as cultural heritage. Nature reserves are established to preserve above all the biological diversity. Landscape reserves, first and foremost, are aimed at preserving the natural and cultural heritage of landscapes rare or typical for Estonia. The protection regime varies between different protected areas. Three categories based on the strictness of protection regime are distinguished – strict reserves, special management zone and limited management zone. Human access is prohibited in strict nature reserves. Within a special management zone economic activities are prohibited except for the management works carried out for the preservation of biotic communities and habitats. Restrictions may be imposed on staying and moving of people in the special management zone during certain seasons (e.g. nesting of birds). When visiting a protected area one should be aware of the protection regime and moving restrictions. In most cases the areas with limited access are designated. Protected areas are governed by the Estonian Environmental Board ( www.keskkonnaamet.ee), which is responsible for issuing special permits to restricted zones. Visitor management is carried out by the State Forest Management Centre ( www.rmk.ee). The latter maintains nature trails and other visiting infrastructure in protected areas as well as elsewhere. RMK has set up a number of recreation sites equipped with bonfire places and camping grounds and cabins. It is prohibited to make fire outside the authorized sites in protected areas. Lahemaa National Park is the only national park in North-Estonia. Other protected areas include over one hundred nature reserves and landscape reserves. The largest nature reserves are those of Puhatu-Poruni, Agusalu, Muraka, Sirtsi, and Põhja-Kõrvemaa. The major landscape reserves are Kõrvemaa, Läänemaa Suursoo, Ohepalu, Aegna and Naissaar. One can also find much to discover in protected areas of smaller range. (See map on page 34)

PLANT WATCHING The most attractive plant communities of North-Estonia are associated with limestone. Alvars of Harjumaa in Türisalu Landscape Reserve and Vääna Landscape Reserve are worthy of visit due to their beauty and uniqueness. The environs of Jalase village in Raplamaa and the area of springs in Varangu Nature Reserve in Lääne-Viru County as well as the areas of former chalk quarries in Pandivere are abundant with orchids. For many species, North-Estonia serves as the northernmost distribution area. For instance, small pasque flower common in North-Estonia is absent in Finland. Likewise, common hazel and English oak appear frequently in forest stands in NorthEstonia, while in the coastal areas in South-Finland they are very rare. (See map on page 18)

MAMMAL WATCHING North-Estonian wild landscapes are home to large number of elk. Habitually, elk exits the woods at sunrise to stroll on meadows and other open landscapes where they can be observed. In particular, they prefer grasslands surrounded by large mires. For instance, these kinds of habitats are found near Läänemaa Suursoo Mire. Beavers inhabit almost all rivers in North-Estonia and even ditches. Beaver can be met near the beaver dams and lodges when it comes out of the river at twilight. To get acquainted with the habitats and behaviour of beaver one should visit the Oandu Beaver Trail in Lahemaa. Otter is also present in almost every river in North-Estonia. A special hide for observing and taking photos of brown bear has been established near Piilse village in Alutaguse. Among the bats residing in Estonia the most interesting are northern bat and pond bat. The former can be met in old parks. Pond bat has somewhat more local range. Pond bats can be seen in Struuga Landscape Reserve by the Narva River and near Vihula in Lahemaa. Siberian flying squirrel residing almost exclusively in pristine landscapes of Alutaguse can be encountered only during special tours guided by experts. Hunters perform supplementary feeding of wild boar and roe deer in winter. Animals gather in feeding grounds and can be observed from the hides. (See map on page 18)

BIRD WATCHING One of the best sites to observe migrating arctic waterfowl is the Põõsaspea Cape in the western part of the North-Estonian coast. The migration of long-tailed duck, common scoter and velvet scoter culminates in the middle of May. One can also see divers, squas, waders species, birds of prey as well as various passerines. The Põõsaspea Cape holds the record of rare species occasionally found in Estonia. Good opportunities to observe the bird migration are available also at Dirham Port and on the Pakri Peninsula. In Nõva-Vihterpalu region the areas of forest fires are worth visiting to watch various birds of prey. Here, forest birds can be best observed along the Höbringi-Viluvere forest path at the edge of Leidissoo Mire. Paljassaare bird area is located in the northern part of the Paljassaare Peninsula in Tallinn. Between the headlands there are small sheltered bays rimmed by extensive reedbeds with open water habitats. There is a bird-watching tower in the reed-bed area. Paljassaare is a host of massive flocks of waterfowl, especially waders during the migration season. Migrating aquatic birds can be watched also on the Pärispea Peninsula and the Lobi Cape in Lahemaa, though the number of birds is way smaller than in Northwest-Estonia. Vergi port near Altja village offers great views of the nearby bays and also a variety of seabirds can be watched. Any of the large bogs with bog pools is worth visiting for those keen on birds found at bog habitats. Kakerdaja Bog and Kõnnu Suursoo Mire in Kõrvemaa, Leidissoo Mire and Läänemaa Suursoo Mire in Northwest-Estonia, mires of Seli, Muraka and Sirtsi in Alutaguse in the north-eastern part of Estonia are just some to name. When paying a visit to Northeast-Estonia, the bird watcher should drop by Struuga Nature Reserve on the floodplains of the Narva River as well as the primeval forest of Porkuni. (See map on page 18)

WHITE-TAILED EAGLE Once on the edge of extinction, the whitetailed eagle is doing quite well at the moment. Approximately 75 couples are estimated to nest in Estonia at the coast and by the biggest inland water bodies. During the bird migration and in winter on the non-frozen seawaters one can observe tens of white-tailed eagles.

WATER TOURS

Various water tours both on sea and rivers are organized in NorthEstonia. You can take easy sea-kayaking trips to the islands of Tallinn Bay and Kolga Bay, also to Pakri Islands near Paldiski and to Mohni Island. The best time for kayaking is during warm-water season between mid-May and late August. Canoeing and rafting on rivers are popular in high-water season in spring. Special trips with big canoes seating 7–10 hikers at a time take you to the Soodla River and the Narva River. The Soodla River, the Valgejõgi River, the Pirita River, the Jägala River, and the Purtse River are suitable for springtime rafting. Most of the rivers in North-Estonia are passable by smaller kayaks in spring. In summertime rivers further from the coast become difficult to traverse due to their low level of water. Guided beaver watching tours on kayaks are organized on the Jägala River and the Soodla River. (See map on page 18)

HIKING TRAILS IN HARJU COUNTY (See map on page 34)

1. Pakri Peninsula hiking trail (26 km) The trail starts at the former fortress of Peter the Great (known as Muula Hills) and follows northward along the coastline. At Uuga cliff the area of Pakri Landscape Reserve begins. The most impressive sights in the landscape reserve are the klint escarpment, the Pakri Cape and lighthouse. On the Pakri Cape the cliff rises directly from the sea and reaches 25 metres in height. The trail arrives at Leetse cliff and the nearby Leetse manor. It passes a giant Saunakivi boulder 3.5 metres in height standing in the sea. Trails on Pakri Islands (12 km and 24 km) Pakri Islands, Suur-Pakri and Väike Pakri, lie a couple of kilometres west of Paldiski town across deep Pakri Bay. In south, the Kurkse Strait separates the islands from the mainland. Pakri Islands together with small islets occupy an area of 24.7 km². Pakri Islands can be reached by boat, but regular sea traffic is not available. • Väike-Pakri (East-Pakri) hiking trail (12 km) The trail goes along the 4-km-long imposing limestone escarpment. There is no place to descend to the seaside in this section. Alvars covered with low-growth juniper stands expand on the island. Yellow-blossomed shrubby cinquefoil and hawkweed, orange rowan bunches, small birch trees and groundcover forms of spruce add color and diversity to juniper fields. • Suur-Pakri (West-Pakri) hiking trail (24 km) The trail follows small coastal lakes that are hidden in the reed stands and separated from the sea by beach ridge. The trail further on crosses rare alvars and passes by the coastal cliff 6–8 metres in height. There are several sandy sites along the coastline suitable for swimming. For more information see: www.pakrisaared.ee 2. Üksnurme-Metsanurme nature and hiking trail (8,5 km) The circle trail begins and ends at Metsanurme village centre in Saku rural municipality. It takes the visitor to protected trees, nice wooded meadows and scenic oak grove. In the middle of the route is a sheltered picnic table in the recreation site established on the meandering bank of the Keila River. Hiking trail is marked with signs and maps.

3. Majakivi-Pikanõmme study trail (7 km) Majakivi-Pikanõmme trail is partly on a wooden track. The study trail gives an overview of the forests of the Juminda Peninsula and old coastal forests that alternate with mire types. The path takes you to the third largest erratic boulder in Estonia Majakivi (height 7 m, circumference 32 m). The trail begins at the Loksa-Leesi road near Virve village. You can also start the trip from Kolga-Aabla village on the opposite coast of the peninsula, where a viewing tower is situated. The trail is marked and provided with signposts and information boards.

4. Viru Bog hiking trail (3,5 km) The trail is easily accessible on the first kilometre off the Tallinn-Narva highway towards Loksa. It presents bog landscape and bog vegetation typical of Estonia, former beach ridges, and heath forests. The trail is designated by striped marks on trees and signposts. You can take either a shorter walk to the viewing tower and back, or take a longer round trip going back to start along the bog. There are information boards installed at the parking lot, at the edge of the bog and along the trail. 5. Liiapeksi-Aegviidu hiking trail (36 km) The trail starts in Liiapeksi village in Kuusalu rural municipality by the Tallinn–St. Petersburg highway and ends near the small town of Aegviidu. The trail introduces forest communities of North-Kõrvemaa. Liiapeksi-Aegviidu trail forms a part of the longer (79 km) Kõrve trail. Along the trail, there are marks on trees and signposts at junctions.

HIKING TRAILS IN LÄÄNE-VIRU COUNTY (See map on page 34)

1. Käsmu hiking and biking trails (14 km) The Käsmu Peninsula is located in Lahemaa National Park. There are three marked study trails in Käsmu. The trails make a loop around the peninsula. The 4.2-km-long nature and culture trail introduces to the hiker the formation of the Käsmu Peninsula and the largest boulder field in Estonia. 2. Oandu Beaver trail (1 km) An interesting study trail 1.5 km from the seaside Altja village towards Sagadi introduces the valley and riparian forest of the Altja River. Along the deep river valley you can notice signs of beavers’ activity, e.g. dams, burrows and trees damaged by beaver. The trail has been provided with paths and benches and two information boards to facilitate your hiking.

3. Oandu forest track (4,7 km) The trail situated in Lahemaa National Park starts near the historical building of former Sagadi Forest Department at the Koljaku-Sagadi-Altja crossroad. It lies 3 km from Sagadi manor and 2 km from Altja village. The walk takes a little less than two hours. Wooden tracks are set up in wet places to facilitate hiking and protect vulnerable vegetation. The main attractions include various forest types, primeval forest, and signs animal create during their activities. 4. Seljamäe study trail (5 m) Seljamäe study trail lies near small borough called Tudu in Vinni rural community. The map and signs lead you to a 5-km-long circle trail in Punasoo Mire and the adjacent Seljamägi Hill. Between the mires of Punasoo and Järvesoo there is a parking lot, resting pavilion and campfire groung. The main sights include Seljamägi Hill, heath forest, transition mire, and springs.

5. Äntu-Nõmme study trail (21 km) The trail is located in forested area lying on eskers partly within Äntu Landscape Reserve in Väike-Maarja rural community. Seven natural lakes of Äntu, one Äntu artificial lake and three Nõmme artificial lakes make up an interesting group of lime-rich lakes in Pandivere watershed. Besides waterbodies, the area also features impressive landforms and flora. You can swim in some of the lakes. The 21-km-long trail consists of four parts, each of which can be taken separately.

HIKING TRAILS IN IDA-VIRU COUNTY (See map on page 34)

1. Saka-Ontika hiking trail (6 km) The trail begins at Saka village in Kohtla rural municipality and ends at Ontika cliff. A natural path descends to the foot of the klint in this location. The trail traverses Saka canyon, where one can observe limestone sediments and Cambrian blue clay. It also introduces the highest part of the Baltic Klint at Ontika and the cross-section of the klint as well as the klint forest featuring high species diversity. The trail passes by the Estonian highest waterfall Valaste (30,5 m).

2. Kotka hiking trail (8 km) This trail begins at the parking lot in a small borough called Iisaku and ends at the parking lot in Sälliku village near Rüütlisoo Mire. The trail features minerotrophic and transition mires and eskers. The trail runs along a sandy range formed stage-by-stage in the course of the retreat of Lake Peipsi. A sudden transformation into bog landscape offers nice change along the track. Tussocks, bog hollows, pools and lakes can be admired along the boardwalk. In the middle of the trail there is a forest cabin and a conical tent set up at the edge of the bog. One can also take just a short 1.5-km-long circle along the wooden track in Rüütli Bog.

3. Kurtna hiking trail (12 km/6 km) Kurtna hiking trail in Illuka rural community makes a loop, starting and finishing at the Niinsaare Holiday Centre. A marked trail is located in Kurtna Landscape Reserve and introduces various plant communities, landscape forms and lake types. The trail is 12 km long and passes 11 lakes. You can also take a shorter hike of 6 km, during which you will see 9 lakes. Along the trail several lakeside camping sites, where you can have a rest, make fire and swim have been established.

4. Poruni hiking trail (10 km/3 km) The trail commences and ends in Gorodenka village situated in Illuka rural community. It runs in the primeval forest and along the Poruni River that flows into the Narva River. On the track, partially a forest path and partially a wooden track, you will get acquainted with diverse flora and fauna of this area. The total length of the trail is 10 km, but it is also possible to take a 3-km-long round trip.

5. Kauksi study trail (4 km/1,5 km) The study trail starts at the Kauksi Nature Centre. This is a nice meandering trail along the pristine-looking valley of the Kauksi Stream. It features diverse landscape of the shores of Lake Peipsi and along the Kauksi Stream. The trail is 4 km long, but you can also take a shorter walk of 1.5 km.

HIKING TRAILS IN JÄRVA COUNTY (See map on page 34)

1. Kakerdaja hiking trail (8 km) Kakerdaja Bog is one of the largest in Kõrvemaa Landscape Reserve. Numerous bog pools and Lake Kakerdaja lie in the bog. The trail partially has wooden tracks in the northern part and has information boards. The trail starts at Lake Kalajärv by the Jäneda-Vetla-Alavere road and ends by the Napu-Mõnuvere forest path in Albu rural community.

2. Kodru hiking trail (5 km) Walking tour starts at the Museum of Anton Hansen Tammsaare, one of the best-known Estonian novelists, in Albu rural community. The trail crosses former marshy grasslands and Kodru Bog and reaches Järva-Madise village. Most of the trail is a wooden track. Information boards are provided. The trail is attractive in all seasons and in all weather conditions, owing to the variability of bog, but it is the most colorful in autumn and late spring.

3. Norra manor and Norra Springs hiking trail (26 km) Beautiful springs of Norra-Oostriku-Võllingi are located in the western part of Endla Nature Reserve on the southern slope of Pandivere Upland. Information boards and five picnic sites have been set up on the trail that features local key habitats. Springs lie within a range of 5 km. The key habitat study trail is located near Norra manor.

4. Prandi Springs hiking trail (2 km) Prandi Springs are located in Koigi rural municipality. Prandi Spring Lake is a 1,1-metre-deep lake with lowshelving shores. The trail runs mostly on wooden track around the lake and springs. Information boards have been provided. Prandi village is located on the 100th kilometre of the Tallinn-Tartu highway. 5. Tagametsa-Saarjõe hiking trail (8 km) The trail begins at Tagametsa Hunting Castle and passes through Saarjõe Landscape Reserve. The track mostly follows the primeval valley of the Saarjõgi River. Besides natural values the trail introduces the monument to the so-called forest brotherhood and underground shelter of the forest brothers. Also resin harvest trees and a tar making site are displayed on the trail. You will also see the hills called Kabelimäed, i.e. the dunes formed in the Baltic Ice Lake period.

HIKING TRAILS IN RAPLA COUNTY (See map on page 34)

1. Kuimetsa karst field hiking trail (2 km) The trail starts a couple of kilometres northeast from Kuimetsa at the Kose-Kuimetsa road. This area is one of the largest and most representative Estonian karst regions. Many karst formations are displayed, including dry valleys, sinkholes, channels and caves. In Kuimetsa, five karst caves are large enough to enter. One of these is a bandstand-shaped cave 12 m in length and 8 m in width in the bottom of a sinkhole. During high-water period one can observe the water flow in limestone cracks or listen to the sound of underground water. 2. Loosalu-Paluküla hiking trail (7 km) The trail begins 6 km south of Kaiu manor. A parking lot is situated at Pakumäe. From here it takes a 1 km to the starting point. A wooden track lies across Loosalu Bog, passing by two bog lakes. Lake Loosalu is the largest bog lake in Estonia. The walk ends at Paluküla Hiiemägi Hill in Kehtna rural community. This is the highest site (106 m) of Northwest-Estonia. Be aware of the fact that the trail is not a roundtrip!

3. Mukre hiking trail (2,3 km) The trail with a signed access point lies near Eidapere. A wooden track takes the hiker through Mukri Bog to many bog pools of different size. It is possible to swim in the bog lake. The trail reaches a 14-metres-high wooden tower, which offers a beautiful view of the bog landscape. To access the trail you should take the turn designated at Eidapere railway crossing. 4. Jalase hiking trail (5 km) The trail starts at the ancient settlement site near Suurkivi springwell. An old elm tree (in Estonian jalakas), the name-giver to a village, and a granite rock with the coat-of-arms of Jalase village are found here. The alley of oaks was established in 1989 as a monument to all farmsteads and crofts in the village back in 1900. Three kilometres from the Jalase-Ohukotsu road Sõbessoo hiking trail starts. This trail passes through forest and reaches the bog. Wooden track of 1 km in length takes you to Lake Sõbessoo. On the way back you can take a look at the village school and Gildemann’s Dolomite Industry.

5. Vana-Vigala hiking trail (4 km) The trail begins at the entrance to Vana-Vigala manor marked by two obelisks. When moving along the pathway that runs between the ponds, you will see a nice view on the renovated manor house built in 1775. On the wall of the house’s vestibule there are marble bas-reliefs over 2000 years old, supposedely excavated from Pompei. The park featuring several ponds around the manor house was designed as in the English park style. It is framed with a splendid river on one side, while the opposite pond bank holds a sacrificial grove several hundred years of age. High stonewall called the Hunger Wall (Näljamüür) borders the park in the north. The wall was erected by local peasants in the lean year 1867, when the landlord forced the peasants to gather up limestone plates and construct a wall. In return, the landlord provided peasants with rye. The trail continues in Hirvepark Park across the Vigala River.

NORTH-ESTONIAN NATURE TOURISM ROUTE. This route introduces and passes through the main areas of interest for nature lovers, including nature protected areas and large forests. The route begins and ends in Tallinn, but the nature tourist can also pass the route partially or just visit some places along the route. 1. We begin our route in Tallinn heading west to Türisalu Landscape Reserve, where the main sights are Türisalu Cliff, plants species on alvars and Keila Waterfall. 2. Nearly 25 metres high Pakri Cliff is situated on Pakri Peninsula, where a view opens on the Pakri islands. Pakri Cliff is the only nesting place of the Black Guillemot in Estonia. 3. Two lakes close to each other Veskijärv (southeast from Nõva) and Tänavjärv (on the edge of the Läänemaa Suursoo (Läänemaa Great Swamp) ) both have a good sandy floor which make them ideal for a vacation, specially when the sea water is too cold for swimming. 4. Velise and Vigala Rivers in Rapla County are excellent for those interested in water trips. The water adventures start from Kabala village, from where you can go canoeing, rafting or rent a pedal boat. 5. Jalase Landscape Reserve in Rapla County is the only nature protected area in Estonia, which is meant for the protection of village landscape. Besides old roads, buildings and other historical objects, there is an abundance of natural treasures in this reserve. 6. The wooden path in Eidapere bog, called the Mukre camping track passes by several bog pools of different sizes. It is possible to swim and fish in the bog lake. The viewing tower in the bog (height 14 m) has a nice view over the lake and the bog pools. 7. A few kilometres from the centre of Kuimetsa in the direction of Vaopere will take you to Kuimetsa karst field. We recommend following the nature track to get to know the karst area better. 8. A wooden track leads to Kakerdaja bog in Kõrvemaa. The beginning of the track is easily found when one turns left after a 6.5 km drive from Lethmetsa in the direction of Vetla, and then around 3 km along a smaller forest road. 9. Nelijärve (Four Lakes) is a beautiful vacation area near Aegviidu. There are several lakes, situated collaterally on the foots of esker chains. 10. Paukjärv is one of the most popular vacation places in Kõrvemaa. The northern and eastern shores of the lake are bordered by a high esker, behind of which lies Kõnnu Suursoo (Kõnnu Great Swamp). 11. Jussi heath has been created by the causes of forest fires and the military training of the Soviet army. Jussi lakes near the heath are comprised of six forest lakes, which make up a complex of lakes. 12. Viru bog is a small bog full of bog pools in Lahemaa National Park. The track in the bog begins on the first kilometre of the Tallinn-Narva road turning in the direction of Loksa. 13. Nõmmeveski waterfall is situated on the 5th kilometre of the Valgejõe-Loksa road. This waterfall with the height of 12 metres is the one richest in water in Lahemaa National Park. In order to compare one may visit Joaveski waterfalls on the Loobu river. Along 160 metres of length the river has six falls up to one metre of height. 14. The Information Centre of Lahemaa National Park is in Palmse manor. Palmse manor park is rich in plant species and has several ponds. 15. Sagadi manor houses the Forest Museum and Sagadi Nature School. There are many nature tracks in areas surrounding Sagadi manor. 16. Oandu forest track starts nearby the historical building of Sagadi forest region’s centre, 3 km away from Sagadi manor. The main sights here are the various types of forests, and traces of wild animals’ activities. 17. The amazing views from Altja fisherman’s village reminds visitors of the historical looks of old North-Estonian coastal villages. Close by is the Altja beaver track, which introduces different species related to the Altja river. There are beaver dams; beaver lairs and trees beavers have eaten in the valley of the river.

33 18. Vihula manor is the third completely renovated manor complex in Lahemaa National Park. Mustoja (the Black creek) flows through the old manor park, and nowadays a pond has been created on it with a dam. 19. In Karepa, in the Selja River Landscape Protection Area and in other places nearby one can find peaceful sandy beaches and old coastal pine forests. 20. Letipea Landscape Reserve is situated on Letipea cape, which is a beautiful coastal area with a lot of boulders. Here is also the biggest boulder is Estonia, called Ehalkivi. 21. Saka-Ontika study track introduces the highest part of the North-Estonian Clint, its cross-section and the richness of species of the clint forest. 22. Former summer residence of the Estonian president Oru park in Toila is one of the most famous parks in Estonia, both historically and considering its landscape. 23. Kohtla Mining Park Museum is set in a former oil shale mine. It is the perfect place to get to know the secrets of North-Estonian bowels of the earth and geology of oil shale. 24. Kurtna Lakes are the biggest in Estonia with 42 lakes, the area of lakes offers a wide range of nature experiences. 25. Kuremäe is one the highest and most spectacular uplands in Alutaguse reaching 90 metres above sea level. In Kuremäe is also an orthodox nunnery. 26. Poruni broad-leaved primeval forest is part of Puhatu-Poruni Nature Protection Area. One will also find a camping track in the forest. 27. The surroundings of Jaama village are the best region to study the marshes of Struuga Landscape Reserve and the old river beds of the Narva River. 28. Smolnitsa Landscape Reserve has been created to protect the sand dunes of Lake Peipsi, which reach almost until Vasknarva (a village in northeastern corner of Lake Peipsi). 29. Muraka bog is one of the biggest bogs of North Estonia. At the edge of the bog lies Heinassaare primeval forest. A camping track has been built through the forest to the bog. 30. A viewing tower near Piilse is set up for watching bears of the Alutaguse forests. 31. Near Tudu are Tudu Lake swamp and Punasoo (Red swamp), into both of which a wooden track has been built. 32. Emumägi (Emu Hill) is the highest peak of North Estonia (166 m above seal level). There is a 22 m high viewing tower on top of it. 33. Äntu Landscape Protection Area is known mostly for its clear lakes, which have a blue or green floor. 34. Porkuni Limestone Museum offers an overview of the Estonian national stone – limestone – on the five floors of a former watch tower. There is a viewing platform on top of the tower, where one can see Lake Porkuni, Porkuni manor complex, and the surrounding nature. 35. Endla Nature Reserve belongs to the list of wetlands of international importance since 1997. These bog and forest areas without human settlement are a perfect environment for over 450 plant species and 180 bird species. In the western part of the nature reserve on the slope of Pandivere Hill lie the beautiful Norra springs. The springs lie within a territory of 5 kilometres. 36. Simisalu Camping House leads to the beginning of a Simisalu-Matsimäe camping track, passing through various natural settings. At the end of the track one can easily reach the Tallinn-Tartu road. 37. On your way to Tallinn on the 33rd kilometre to the left is Tuhala Landscape Reserve, where on a quite small territory all different karst forms can be observed. There is also a camping track in the area, and during high water a magnificent Witch’s Well is active and “boiling over”. 38. At Saula, the Tallinn-Tartu road crosses the Pirita River. Close to the Saula bridge, about 200 metres from the road are beautiful Saula Blue Springs on the shore of the Pirita river. From here, about 30 kilometres back to Tallinn. (See map on page 34)